MODULE 5

DRESSMAKING
MODULE REVIEW
The dressmaker needs quality tools and equipment in sewing. Good performance is
important for long-lasting satisfaction of your customers, hence selection of your sewing
machine and sewing tools are important. The correct tools and equipment will make your work
lighter and easier. These tools and equipment are of different classifications and will be
discussed in the succeeding section.

Learning Outcomes:
At the end of this lesson students are expected to:
 Identify dressmaking tools, materials and equipment.
 Locate different body points necessary in body measurements.

Discussion:

What is dressmaking?
The dictionary defines this as the art of sewing clothes and dresses like sewing a beautiful
dress from a fabric. The individual who sews clothing for women is commonly known as
dressmaker. A dressmaker may also cater to the needs of men depending on her training, but
usually a tailor does the job. Men and women have different body shapes that call for different
techniques in pattern drafting, fabric cutting, designing and sewing. However, it is beneficial for
a dressmaker or tailor if he/she can sew clothes both for male and female.

Sewing Tools and Equipment

Measuring Tools
1. Measuring tape. This is also commonly known as tapeline. It is used to take body
measurement and made of non-stretchable strip. It has two calibrated sides: one side
measures 150 centimeters, and the other side is 60 inches.
2. Sewing gauge. It is used to measure small hem areas and short distances such as hem
folds, seam allowance, buttonholes, seams and tucks. This is a six-inch ruler made of
aluminum or stiff cardboard provided with a slider for easy movement in taking the body
measurement.

3. Ruler. This is a common measuring device used by everyone including the dressmaker.
It has a 12-inch length and made of wood or plastic. It is used to conned two points in
connecting two fines specifically in drafting pattern.
4. Meter stick or yard stick. This is used to measure cloth or fabric by meter or yard.
marked off in centimeters and millimeters and usually made of wood or steel.
Drafting Tools
1. L-square. This is an aluminum ruler with 90 degrees’ angle used in drawing
perpendicular lines and to measure off parallel lines. Used to construct lines by
connecting its two arms perpendicularly. The long arm has breakdown measurements of
1- 24; 1-12; 1- 6; 1 - 3; and 2- 3 while the short arm has breakdown measurements of 1-
32; 1-16: 1-8; 1-4 and 1-2.

2. Hip curve. As the name suggests, it is a curve stick used to form the hipline and other
areas of the garments which has curve section or parts. This is made of metal with
calibration on both sides.

3. French Curve. This is used to shape the neckline, armholes and collars during the
drafting of pattern or cutting the fabric ready for sewing.
Cutting Tools
1. Shears. These are used for cutting fabric, paper and materials.

There are different kinds of shears for specific purpose.

a. Cutting shears — are used for cutting fabrics. Their blades are straight and usually
7-12 inches long and usually made of stainless steel.

b. Pinking shears — used to cut the edge of seam allowance of fabric that does not
ravel due to its zigzag edge. This can also be used in cutting decorative materials.

c. Scalloping shears — used to cut parts of garments with a series of uniform scallops
as it has scallop blades.
 2. Buttonhole scissors. This is a special kind of scissors used for making or cutting
buttonholes. The blades have square shape found at the joint of scissors to control the
cutting the fabric or cloth off the buttonhole area.

3. Embroidery scissors. These are used in embroidery work in cutting fine delicate cloth
and thread. They are sharp pointed scissors usually 4-5 inches long.

4. Seam ripper. This is used in cutting off stitches of a seam. During the ripping process,
extra care must be taken to prevent the cloth from being damaged.

Marking tools
1. Tailor's chalk. This is used to mark the fabric and pattern paper. This is available in
different colors and is made of hard chalk. Markings on the fabric can be removed by
brushing.
2. Tracing wheel. It is used to trace the lines in the pattern to penetrate to the fabric. Its
serrated edge produces the dots on the fabric and the smooth edge the solid line.
 3. Dressmaker’s carbon paper. People wear clothes not only to protect their body from
extreme heat and cold but also to emphasize the good points of their bodies. It is also
undeniable that clothes are worn to hide some of the imperfections of our body
characteristics. The elements of design are important body of knowledge that a
dressmaker or tailor should acquire.

Sewing Aids
1. Pin. This is used to fasten or hold two or three fabrics or materials together. There are
two kinds of pins, one with colored rounded head for easy handling and the other one is
with small steel head.
2. Pin cushion. This is a small-size cushion used to hold pins and need for safekeeping.
Scattering on the floor of needles is a risk for dressmakers and other workers should be
avoided.
3. Hand needles. These are used for temporary stitches, hemming, and other hand sewing
purposes. There are different sizes available in the market to suit the kind of fabric to be
sewn.
4. Thimble. This is a small cup used to protect the finger from being picked by the needle
during sewing. It is placed on the tip of the middle finger which is usual finger that
pushes the needle while hand sewing.
5. Threader. This is used to insert thread to the needle eye. It has a diamond shaped wire
attached to a handle made of thin material made of a thin plate aluminum.

Body Measurements for Men and Women Apparels

The success of a dressmaker or tailor is manifested in the satisfaction of her/his customers.
He/she can even help customers in choosing the garment style and the kind of fabric appropriate
for a particular design. But first and foremost, accurate body measurements is of vital importance
to get the best results. The following are the different measurements taken both for men and
women:
1. Shoulder — Position the end of the tape measure on the shoulder tip passing the nape
across the other shoulder tip.
2. Length of shirt — This is taken from the nape down to the desired length
3. Bust — Place the tape measure around the fullest part of the bust inserting two fingers in
it.
4. Waist — Place the tape measure around the fullest part of the waist.
5. Hip — Position the tape measure in line and around the fullest part of the hips.
6. Chest — Starting from the shoulder point, measure 4" downward and put the tape
measure around the chest.
7. Bust height — measure from the shoulder base neck down to the bust point.
8. Bust distance — taken from one bust point to another bust point.
9. Length of sleeve — Measure from shoulder tip point to the desired length.
 10. Short sleeve circumference/girth — From the measured short sleeve length, place the
tape measure around the arms with the desired circumference.
11. Full bodice length — This is the measure from the shoulder base neck to the waistline.

Activity.

Take body measurements of one of your family members.

Personal Measurement Record

Name: Date:
Address:

Shirt
1. Shoulder ____________
2. Length of shirt ____________
3. Bust ____________
4. Chest ____________
5. Hip Chest ____________
6. Bust height ____________
7. Bust distance ____________
8. Length of sleeve ____________
9. Short sleeve circumference ____________
10. Full bodice length ____________