This document provides instructions for sewing dress pants. It details how to add a zipper fly using the mock fly method and press under the underlap. It also explains how to construct pockets by finishing the curved edges, basting the pocket yoke and lining, and understitching the pocket lining. Finally, it describes adding a waistband with carriers by creating a double fold on the carrier fabric and securing the inside waistband with a slipstitch.
This document provides instructions for sewing dress pants. It details how to add a zipper fly using the mock fly method and press under the underlap. It also explains how to construct pockets by finishing the curved edges, basting the pocket yoke and lining, and understitching the pocket lining. Finally, it describes adding a waistband with carriers by creating a double fold on the carrier fabric and securing the inside waistband with a slipstitch.
This document provides instructions for sewing dress pants. It details how to add a zipper fly using the mock fly method and press under the underlap. It also explains how to construct pockets by finishing the curved edges, basting the pocket yoke and lining, and understitching the pocket lining. Finally, it describes adding a waistband with carriers by creating a double fold on the carrier fabric and securing the inside waistband with a slipstitch.
Start by stay stitching top of pants, ½” away from waist band.
Transfer all markings from pattern to fabric. ● Zipper ○ Stitch from indicated circles close to zipper inseam down to 1 ½” away from inseam at other circle. ○ Sew zipper to pants, following mock fly method. Start by pressing under the underlap. Finish the raw edges of the fly. ○ Use the zipper foot to sew the zipper to the underlap. ○ Press under the overlap and finish raw edges. ○ Follow guide for the fly top stitching, ensuring the tape of the zipper is catching in the stitching. ○ Sew bar tacks. ● Pockets ○ Finish curved edges of pocket yoke and pocket lining with serger. ○ Baste pocket yoke wrong sides to the pocket right sides, stitching along serged edge and basting along other sides. Repeat this for the pocket lining on opposite side of pocket. ○ Sew pocket lining to pocket of pants, right sides together. Press seams open. Understitch. Turn pocket to inside of pant and press seam closed. ○ Stitch around entire pocket piece. Serge raw edges. Stitch pocket to pants at waistline about ½” to keep in place. Sew darts along waistband. ○ For single fold welt pocket, cut 2 of 3”x8” of pant fabric for facing. Cut desired length of pocket on fold, 8” wide. Cut 3”x8” of fusible interfacing. ○ On interfacing, draw box that is ½” x 6”. Fuse interfacing to inside of pants at indicated mark. Using a shorter stitch length, stitch around box. ○ Place right side of pocket top n right side of fabric, from wrong side, stitch both long ends of box. ○ Draw another line 1/2” below box. Baste pocket across this line. Flip pocket up, stitch another line across bottom length of box ○ On fabric right side, cut all the way through the pocket welt fabric, but not pants. ○ On wrong side, cut through the box. ○ Flip pocket through the opening and stitch in place. Serge all raw edges and press in place. Sew inseams together. Serge raw edges. Sew crotch seam. Finish crotch seam with double fold bias tape. Sew side seams according to fit. Serge raw edges and press seams open to lay flat. ● Carriers and Waistband ○ Take the fabric for the carriers and create a double fold. Edgestitch along opening. Cut strip into 5 even sections, about 3” each. ○ Pin carrier into individual place around waistband. ○ Fuse interfacing to waistband. ○ Trim ¼” off one raw edge of waistband, but not to end. Leave about 1 ½” remaining on one end. Sew on double fold bias tape to finish inside of waistband. ○ Pin right side of waistband to right side of pants. Sew around waistband and press seam upward toward waist. ○ Press inside waistband toward inside of pants. Use slipstitch to secure inside waistband to pants, ensuring that all raw seams are hidden. Hem pants. Press to form midleg crease. All done!