TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Conducted at

WEAVERS SERVICE CENTER , DELHI

PRAKRITI GORAI ; RIYA PREMI

Industry Mentor: Internal Mentor:

MR. PURAN SINGH MS. RASHMI THAKUR

Department of Fashion Technology

National Institute of Fashion Technology Mumbai
July, 2021

(i)
CERTIFICATE

WEAVERS SERVICE CENTER, DELHI

DURATION: 12.07.2021-30.07.2021

(ii)
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

At the outset, we wish to express our gratitude to everybody who has assisted in the formulation
of this report. There are many to whom expression of gratitude is inevitable, but there some special
people who have to be given prominence, without whom we would not have reached the
conclusion of this project so quickly and so efficiently.

We are grateful to Mr. PURAN SINGH for guiding us throughout the internship. We would like
to thank our Course Coordinator and mentor Mr. NITIN SALVE and Ms. RASHMI THAKUR ,
who has always added to our buoyancy with her tremendous efforts and for her constant support.

At WEARVERS SERVICE CENTER , DELHI, we would like to thank the our industry mentor,
Mr. PURAN SINGH, (junior printer) ; DIRECTOR OF WEAVERS SERVICE CENTER : Mr.
VISHESH NAUTIYAL . Also, we would like to express a special gratitude to the company for
being excellent hosts.

PRAKRITI GORAI & RIYA PREMI

Date:

PLACE: MUMBAI Department of Fashion Technology

National Institute of Fashion Technology, MUMBAI

(iii)
 ABSTRACT

The Indian textiles and apparels industry is one of the oldest industries in India having evolved
impressively from a domestic small-scale industry to one of the largest in the world with a massive
raw material and textiles manufacturing base. It is also one of the largest and most important
sectors of the Indian economy in terms of output, foreign exchange earnings and employment thus
contributing greatly to the exchequer.
The textile industry is a term used for industries primarily concerned with the design or
manufacture of clothing as well as the distribution and use of textiles. Textile is a general term
applied to any manufacture from fibers, filaments, or yarns characterized by flexibility, fineness
and high ratio of length to thickness.
Textile Industry is unique in the terms that it is an independent industry, from the basic requirement
of raw materials to the final products, with huge value-addition at every stage of processing.
Textile Internship as a module in the course of Apparel Production emphasizes on the learning of
the processes in the Textile Industry which involves the major processes of procuring raw material,
spinning, weaving or knitting, dyeing, printing, measures. The internship revolves around
observing the functioning and processing. It also greatly focuses on the learning of the process
parameters, working conditions, process flow and other important criteria in the manufacturing
process. We were to understand the step-wise breakdown of all the process, how they are carried
and what are the start and end-product at each of these steps.

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 CONTENTS

S. No. Page No.

1 Introduction and Objective 1

2 Company Overview 2
3 Chapter 3 (PRE TREATMENT DEPARTMENT) 4
3.1 Scouring 4
3.2 Bleaching 4
3.3 Practicals 5
4 Chapter 4 ( DYEING DEPARTMENT) 7
4.1 Direct Dye 7
4.2 Reactive Dye 8
4.3 VAT dye 10
4.4 Acid Dye 12
4.5 Natural Dye 12
5 Chapter 5 (PRINTING DEPARTMENT) 21
5.1 Direct Printing 21
5.2 Discharge Printing 22
5.3 Resist Printing 22
5.4 Methods of Printing 23
6 Chapter 6 (WEAVING DEPARTMENT) 28
6.1 Parts of Loom 28
6.2 Motion of Loom 29
6.3 Mounting of Loom 30
6.4 Preparation of Loom 31

(v)
 LIST OF FIGURES

Chapter Figure Name of the figure Page No.

No. No.
3 3.1 Scouring and Bleaching 6

4 4.1 Yarn hank dyed with different dyes 7

4.2 Dyeing with Direct dye 17
4.3 Dyed with direct dye 17
4.4 Dyeing with Reactive dye 18
4.5 Dyeing with VAT dye 19
5 5.1 Block Prints 21
5.2 Block and Prints 22
5.3 Printing with Natural Colours 27
6 6.1 Handloom 28

(vi)
 LIST OF TABLES

Chapter Table Name of the Table Page No.

No. No.
4 4.1 Quantity of Chemicals for Direct dye 8
4.2 Quantity of Chemicals for Reactive dye 9
4.3 Quantity of Chemicals for VAT dye 11
4.4 Quantity of Chemicals for Acid dye 12
4.5 Mordants and quantity 13
4.6 Dye yielding materials 14
5 5.1 Types of Mordants 26

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 CHAPTER 1
INTRODUCTION AND OBJECTIVE

INTRODUCTION
The objective of this internship / training at WSC DELHI was to understand the concept of
weaving, different types of weaves, handloom processes, the traditional weaves, dyeing processes
which includes natural dyeing, extraction of natural dyes, synthetic and preparatory process of
dyeing their technical as well as commercial processes. The first step was to know about the profile
of the company, the concept of handloom weaving, different aspects of handloom weaving. The
process of traditional weavers, in DELHI . How basic raw materials are handled by the weavers,
the processes of handlooms to make traditional weaves.
OBJECTIVES OF INTERNSHIP:
❖ To gather information on different weaving; dyeing; printing & preproduction processes.
❖ To analyse the Hazard, Inspection, Risk and Assessment for the processing machines.
❖ To develop an understanding of the basic concept of Quality .
❖ To analyse and understand the practical implementation of market scenario.
❖ Handloom Specifications
❖ Handloom Weaving
❖ Traditional Weaves and trends
❖ Dyeing process
❖ Printing Process

1
 CHAPTER 2
COMPANY OVERVIEW
WEAVERS SERVICE CENTER , DELHI

ORGANISATION OVERVIEW :
The Ministry of textile informed that as of now over 28 Weavers Service Centers are set up under
the Office of Development Commissioner (Handlooms), Ministry of Textiles, functioning in
various parts of the country. Weavers may visit these centres avail technical assistance in relation
to their profession. Also an MoU was signed between Ministry of Textiles and Designers under
which reputed designers will collaborate with the handloom weavers on design. The MoU will
help the sector with better prospects in the market.

VISION

❖ To provide all possible technical assistance in terms of design input, technical advice in
weaving/dyeing printing etc. to weavers and all concerned to Handloom Sector.
❖ To technically support weavers and others on a continuous basis for sustained development
of the Handloom Sector.
❖ To visit the Handloom pockets for rendering technical assistance to weavers and others.
❖ To conduct Design Exhibition-cum-Dyeing Workshop with a view to create awareness in
the weaver clusters about the services available in WSCs and to impart training in dyeing
techniques and design development.
❖ To upgrade the skills of handloom weavers/workers in the field of design
development/weaving/dyeing under on-going in-house short term training programmes
and also under IHTP Scheme.

2
MISSION

❖ Of product development to evolve more marketable products by interaction between

experts available in the fields of weaving, designing and processing.
❖ In improving weaving techniques and accessories and appliances used in weaving.
❖ In improving techniques of processing.
❖ In training weavers by disseminating improved techniques and new designs by undertaking
training programmes within the precincts of the Centre and in the field.
❖ In providing market support by arranging interface between designers, producers and
buyers which includes execution of sample orders.
❖ In solving problems arising in pre-loom, loom and post-loom processes and technologies.
❖ In arranging exhibitions, seminars, workshops focusing on new and improved designs,
equipment and processing techniques
❖ In preserving and documenting traditional skills and revival of traditional skills and revival
of traditional designs for production and marketing

DEPARTMENT

FLOW CHART

WEAVING
HANDLOOMS / HANDLOOM
TRADITIONAL WEAVES (HANDLOOM) PROCESSES

DYEING
DYEING EQUIPMENTS
TYPES OF DYEING
PROCESSES & MACHINES
PROCESSES

PRINTING
PRINTING TECHNIQUES PREPERATION OF
PROCESSES PIGMENTS

3
 CHAPTER 3
PRE-TREATMENT DEPARTMENT

3.1 SCOURING
Grey cotton yarn as such is not directly suitable for dyeing or bleaching as it contains natural
impurities such as fats, waxes, colouring matter, pectins, broken seeds, trashes etc. In order to
make the yarn absorbent, to obtain level dyeing, good penetration of the dyestuffs and shades of
good fastness properties, the impurities have to be removed. This is done by boiling out the yam
with not alkaline solution in a kier under pressure or in open becks without pressure. The boiling
out operation various from place to place depending upon the nature of material, equipment,
quantity of water etc. A general method for boiling out 5 kgs. of yam in open beck is given below:
The yarn is boiled for 4-5 hours in a liquor containing,
100 gms caustic soda
50 gms soap or 25 gms. synthetic detergent
50 gms soda ash, made total volume upto
100 litres with soft water
Care should be taken to see that the yarn remains immersed in the liquor throughout the boiling
period: It is then steeped overnight in the same liquor and washed thoroughly with water the
following day.

3.2 BLEACHING
When white yam is required, or when light or pastel shades are to be dyed, it is necessary to bleach
the yarn. The natural colour of the yarn is removed by bleaching.
Two methods generally used for bleaching are:
(i) Hypochlorite method in which bleaching powder is commonly used (not eco-friendly)
and
(ii) Hydrogen peroxide method (eco-friendly)
Hydrogen peroxide is the most important bleaching agent. It has become most acceptable for
following reasons:
4
(i) It is envi onment friendly
(ii) It gives permanent whiteness to the material.

3.2.1 Hydrogen Peroxide Method

The strength of commercial solutions of Hydrogen peroxide is expressed generally in terms of the
volume of oxygen which they are capable of yielding per unit volume of hydrogen peroxide. "One
volume’’ hydrogen peroxide means that one vol. of oxygen is available from one vol. Hydrogen
peroxide of on its decomposition.
The relation between Volume and percentage of Hydrogen peroxide by weight is as follows:

Volume Strength % Hydrogen Peroxide

10 vol. 3.04
20 vol. 6.08
100 vol. 30.40
130 vol. 39.52
Bleaching with Hydrogen peroxide is normally done at 80-85°C with Sodium silicate as stabilizer.
The strength of Hydrogen peroxide and the quantity of Sodium silicate to be used for half bleach
and full bleach are as follows:
Half Bleach Full Bleach
Hydrogen peroxide 0.5 to 1 vol. 2 to 4 vol.
Sodium Silicate 2 gms/litre 4 to 8 gms/litre
The period of bleaching is about 2 hours

3.3 PRACTICALS
For scouring and bleaching 300 grams of cotton yarn, we followed the process mentioned below:
Materials Required Amount
Water 6 litre
Wetting Agent 6 gpl
Soaping Agent 3 gpl
Soda Ash 3 gpl
5
 Caustic Soda 6 gpl
Bleaching Agents
Sodium Silicate 12 gpl
Hydrogen Peroxide 12 gpl

Procedure:
• Take water at room temperature in a vessel.
• Add required amount of wetting agent, soaping agent, soda ash and caustic soda.
• Put the yarn and start raising the temperature.
• When the temperature raises to 70 degrees C, add the bleaching agents.
• When boiling starts let it stay for 45 minutes.
After Treatment
• Yarn is washed in hot water (80 degrees C) for 10 minutes.
• Yarn is then cold washed for 10 minutes.
• Neutralization with acetic acid is carried out.

3.1 Scouring and Bleaching

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 CHAPTER 4
DYEING DEPARTMENT

COLOURING MATTER

Dyes Pigment

Readymade Colours Ingrain Colours

Water Soluble Dyes Water Insoluble Dyes

4.1 Yarn hanks dyed with different types of dyes

4.1 DIRECT DYE
The Direct dyes offer the dyer a simple and economic means of producing dyeing on cotton yam
mese dyes find use on materials which are not subjected to frequent washing. The fastness to mid
washing of a un after treatment wed with dyes is reasonably good. It can be further improved in

7
many cases by an after treatment with a cationic dye fixing agent.

4.1.1 Method of Dyeing

a) Dissolving
Direct dyes are dissolved in soft water by pasting with small quantity cold water followed
by addition of boiling water under stirring. The solution may be boiled, it necessary to
effect complete dissolution.

b) Dyeing
The dyebath is set at 40-50°C with Soda ash, and half the quantity of salt and with water
equal to 20 times the weight of yam, and then add dissolved dyestuff solution. The
scoured/bleached yarn is worked in dyebath for 15 minutes. Temperature is gradually
raised to 90-95C and dyeing continued for 30-45 minutes. It is advisable to allow the yarn
to remain in cooling bath for 10-15 minutes. Finally, the yarn is rinsed in cold water and
dried.
4.1 Quantity of Chemicals for Direct Dye
Chemicals Light Shade (0.5%) Medium Shade Dark Shade (2%)
(1%)
Soda Ash 0.5% 1-1.5% 2-3%
Salt 5% 10-15% 20-30%
Time 30 mins 40 mins 50 mins

c) After Treatment
• Neutralization with acetic acid
• Soaping
• Hot wash, where the temperature of water should be 50 degrees C.
• Cold wash

4.2 REACTIVE DYES

Reactive dyes react with Cellulosic fibres to produce shades of all-round fastness and brilliancy.
These dyes have better rubbing fastness compared to Naphthols. However, fastness to chlorine is
8
generally poor, except for some dyes. Reactive dyes are classified in to two groups:
1. Cold brand Reactive dyes
2. Hot brand Reactive dyes,
4.2.1 Application of Cold brand Reactive Dyes
Reactive dyes are not suitable hard water beyond 10 hardness. Soft water at neutral or slightly
acidic pH should be used for dissolving Reactive dyes (red litmus paper should not turn blue).
Dyestuff should be dissolved in water at 30-50°C and should not be boiled. The solution can be
stored for maximum 4 hours at 50°C.
The dyebath is set at room temperature with the dyestuff solution. The yarn is worked for 10
minutes. The Glauber’s salt is added in 3 to 4 parts in 30-45 minutes followed by Soda ash. Dyeing
should continue for an hour. Finally, the yarn is squeezed, rinsed well in cold water and soaped at
boil with 1-2 grams/litre detergent, rinsed well in hot water and dried.

4.2.2 Application of Hot Brand Reactive Dyes

These dyes are applied under hot condition in presence of glauber’s salt and fixation is done by
soda ash/caustic soda. Solution is prepared using warm water which may be boiled for a short
period if needed.
4.2 Quantity of Chemicals for Reactive Dye
Shade % Salt Soda Ash Caustic Soda
0-0.5 30 gpl 10 gpl -
0.5-1 40 gpl 15 gpl -
1-2 50 gpl 10 gpl 1 gpl
2-4 60 gpl 15gpl 1 gpl
Abv. 4 80 gpl 20 gpl 2 gpl

After dyeing, the material is squeezed , rinsed and soaped at the boil for 30 minutes with 2-3 gms.
Soap per litre and finally washed well with warm water and then cold water. The removal of
unfixed dye is very essential and at the same time fastness should be improved.

9
4.3 VAT DYES

These dyes are amongst the fastest known and should be used where all round fastness desired.
Vat dyes are therefore extensively used in dyeing cotton materials. These dyes have high fastness
to light, washing, rubbing, and perspiration and even to hypochlorite bleaching. Without correct
method of application vat dyes cannot be assumed to very fast. These dyes include a wide range
Yellows. Scarlets, Pinks, Browns and Blacks etc.

They are insoluble in water and rendered soluble by addition of Caustic soda and Sodium
hydrosulphite. If adequate quantities of Sodium hydrosulphite and Caustic soda are not present in
the dyebath, the dyestuff gets participated. It is necessary to ensure that the dyestuft remains in
solution in the dyebath, which can be checked by using two type of test papers.
(1) Phenolphthalein paper which turns pink (Red) in presence of caustic soda and
(2) Vat yellow paper which turns blue in presence of hydrosulphite
If the quantity of Caustic soda and Hydrosulphite present in the dyebath is not sufficient, small
additions of Caustic soda and Hydrosulphite should be made to the dyebath, otherwise weak and
streaky dyeing with unsatisfactory fastness properties may results.
4.3.1 Methods of Dyeing
There are five different methods of application of vat colours which are based on the quantities of
chemicals used and the temperature of dyeing.
Method 1- High concentration of Caustic soda and high dyeing temperature are the characteristics
of this method. As leuco vat exhaust well, no salt is added to the dyebath.
Method 2- Medium concentration of caustic soda, medium temperature and small addition of salt
are the requirements of this method.
Method 3- In this method low to medium concentrations of caustic soda, low dyeing temperature
and large quantities of salt are used.
Method 4- The quantities of Caustic soda and Hydrosulphite required for this method are higher
than those required for method No. 1.
Method 5- This method is used for dyeing by the stock vat method with no appreciable additions
of Caustic soda and Sodium hydrosulphite to the dyebath.

10
4.3.2 General procedure of Dyeing
(i) Vatting
The required quantity of the dyestuff is pasted with wetting agent and then calculated
quantities of warm water, Caustic soda and Hydrosulphite are added, and the mixture is
treated (called vatting) for 10-15 minutes at the recommended temperature.
(ii) Dyeing
The dyebath is set at the recommended temperature with requisite quantities of water,
Caustic so and Hydrosulphite..he vatted dyestuff is then added to the dyebath and dyeing
is continued sit 20 to 60 minutes. Then materials is removed, squeezed, hydro-extracted
and exposed to air or 30 minutes to oxidize the dyestuff for development of true shade.

4.3 Quantity of Chemicals for Vat Dye

Shade Sodium Hydrosulphite Caustic soda
Light 6 gpl 5 gpl
Medium 7 gpl 6 gpl
Dark 8 gpl 7 gpl

Certain dyestuffs (like blues) require to be rinsed immediately after dyeing before
oxidation with water containing hydrosulphite and some others required to be protected
from direct sunlight while drying. After air oxidation the material is rinsed well with water,
soured in solution containing 2.5 c.c. Sulphuric acid (168 Tw) per litre and washed
thoroughly with water. After dyeing, the material is soaped at boil for 15-20 minutes in a
solution containing 2 gm of soap and 1 gm of soda ash (or 1 gm. Synthetic detergent) per
litre and then washed. Soaping treatment is essential for removing any colour that may be
loosely held by the material and for developing the brightness as well as the true shade of
the dye. It also improves the fastness properties of the dyeing.

(iii) Oxidation
For most of the dyestuffs air oxidation is enough but in the case of some dyestuffs such as

11
 Vat Khaki a chemical oxidation is necessary.
Generally oxidation with peroxide or perborate is given to bright shades like green and
blues, oxidation with bichromate to like khakis and Hypochlorite treatment to Black BB.

4.4 ACID DYE

Acid dyes are typically used to dye natural protein (wool and silk), synthetic polyamide (nylon)
and to a small extent acrylics and blends of these fibres. They are so called because they are applied
to these fibres from dyebath in acidic or neutral conditions.
Acid dyes, named for their application under acid conditions, are reasonably easy to apply, have a
wide range of colours and, depending on dye selection, can have good colour fastness properties.

4.4.1 Dyeing with acid dye

The dyestuff is added to water at 40 degrees and temperature of the dyebath is increased till 60
degrees. The yarn is then put into the dyebath. As soon as the temperature rises to 70 degrees half
the amount acetic acid is added to the dyebath, the rest of the acetic acid is added after 5 minutes.
The dyeing process continues according to the shade required.
4.4 Quantity of Chemicals for Acid Dye
Shade % Acetic Acid Time
0.5 4 gpl 30 min
1 5 gpl 40 min
2 6 gpl 50 min

Finally, the yarn is put into a soaping solution, followed by hot wash and cold wash respectively.

4.5 NATURAL DYES

Natural dyes are dyes and colorants derived from plants, invertebrates or minerals.
There are 7 distinct stages for dyeing of cotton fabric with vegetable/natural dyes. These are :
4.5.1 Treating with Harda or myrobolan
Cotton does not have affinity for all vegetable/natural dyes. Moreover, these dyes are not fast on
12
cotton unless it is pretreated with Tannic acid or some metal mordants. Harda is the natural source
of Tannic acid. The washed cloth is treated with a solution containing 20 gms per litre of Harda
powder at 40°C for 15 minutes with constant stirring. Then it is taken out from the bath and
squeezed evenly before drying in shade. Precaution is to be taken not to dry the treated cloth in
direct sun because the surface exposed to sun becomes darker in dyeing resulting uneven shades.
The wet cloth should not come in contact with iron otherwise it will turn black.
4.5.2 Removal of excess harda
Excess Harda powder deposited on the surface of the cloth is removed by beating the cloth with a
miller or the cloth itself is beaten on a hard surface. It helps in good penetration of mordants and
dyes in the cloth in subsequent processes resulting better dyeing/printing qualities.
4.5.3 Treatment with mordant
The following 5 popular mordants are used in different quantities to obtain five different shades
of colours from vegetable/natural dyes. This is the unique character of such dyes that give different
shades when treated with different mordants.
4.5 Mordants and quantity
S Name of Mordant Quantity Treatment Time (min)
no. (gms/litre) temperature
1 Stannous Chloride 2 40℃ 15
2 Alum 10 Normal 15
3 Potassium Dichromate 0.5 40℃ 15
4 Copper Sulphate 1 40℃ 15
5 Ferrous Sulphate 0.25 40℃ 15

The cloth is treated with the above mordant with constant stirring. Then it is taken out from
the bath and squeezed evenly before drying in the shade.
4.5.4 Washing
The dried cloth is rinsed in plain water thoroughly to remove excess and unfixed mordant.
4.5.5 Dyeing
The dyeing is carried out in two stages:
i. Extraction of dye
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 ii. Actual dyeing of the cloth or yarn
Extraction of dyes
For extraction of dyes, various vegetable/natural dye-yielding materials are boiled in plain water.
The dye solution is sieved out before adding it to the dye bath.
4.6 Dye yielding materials
S.no Botanical name of the Common Parts of the Quantity Dye
plant Name/Local plant used (gms/litre) Extraction
Name Time
1 Nyctanthes arbor-tristis Harshingar Flower 2 30 min
2 Carthamus Tinetorius Kusum Flower 20 30 min
3 Butea Frondosa Kesula Flower 40 1 hr
4 Lawsonia Inermis Heena Leaf 40 45 min
5 Terminalia Chebua Harda Flower 20 30 min
6 Punica Granatum Pomegranate Fruit rind 20 1 hr
7 Lawsonia Inermis Heena Seed 40 45 min
8 Allium cepa Onion Skin 20 1 hr
9 Camellia Sinensis Tea Leaf 10 30 min
10 Rubia Cordofolia Majith Stem 40 2 hr
11 Caesalpinia sappan Sappan wood Inner part 40 1 hr 30 min
12 Acacia arabica Babul Bark 40 1 hr
13 Acacia Catechu Catechu Resin 3 10 min
14 Onosmas echiodes Ratanjot Wood 40 1 hr

Actual Dyeing
Actual dyeing of the mordanted cloth is done in a bath containing the previously extracted dye
solution and water. The material is entered into the bath at 40°C and then the temperature is slowly
raised. Dyeing is carried out at 80°C for 45 minutes with frequent stirring. The dyed material is
taken out from the bath, squeezed evenly and then opened fully to bring down its temperature to
normal before rinsing in plain water.
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Dyeing of Green shades: Normally, green shade is developed by dyeing the material first with
yellow colour followed by blue or vice-versa. In the shade card, Harsingar has been used for getting
yellow colour and indigo for blue.
Dyeing of Yellowish Brown Shades: The material has been dyed with Anar for getting yellow
shade and then topped with syahi (Iron Solution).
Dyeing with Natural Indigo: The Indigo dye cake is grounded into powdered form. This dye is not
soluble in water. Hence it is dissolved with the addition of Caustic Soda and Sodium
Hydrosulphite. Required quantity of Indigo powder is pasted with Turkey Red Oil and then warm
water, Caustic Soda and Sodium Hydrosulphite are added. The mixture is treated for 15 minutes
at 50°C when the dye is reduced to leuco form and dissolved. The process of dissolving the dye is
called Vatting.
The dyebath is set at 50°C with required quantities of Caustic Soda and Sodium Hydrosulphite,
The vatted dye is added to this bath and dyeing is continued for 30 minutes for pale shade. Then
the material is taken out from the bath, squeezed and immediately dipped in cold water before
exposing to air for oxidation and development of the shade. In case of dark shade. dyeing process
is repeated for 3-4 times.
In country vat process, the oval-shaped earthen dye vat, which is about 10-12 ft. deep and having
2 ft. circumference at the top and bottom, and 3-4 ft in the middle, is put inside the ground keeping
the mouth of the vat just above the floor. The vat is prepared initially with about 1500-2000 litres
of water, 5-6 kgs of Indigo and 4-5 kgs of Calcium Carbonate and kept for 30 days for vatting of
the dye. The material is dipped in the vat for dyeing, taken out, squeezed and opened in the air for
development of the shade.
Dyeing with Black Colour: Black colour, locally called as Syahi is prepared by taking about 10
kgs. of iron fillings and burning it in fire. After cleaning, they are mixed with about 0.5 kgs, of
jaggery and 16-17 litre water in an earthen pitch. The mixture is allowed to ferment for about 10
days. Then the fermented liquor is sieved out of the pitch and now ready for use in dyeing. The
cloth previously treated with harda is now dyed in this liquor in cold for about 30 minutes. Then
it is taken out from the dye bath, squeezed and rinsed in plain cold water.
4.5.6 Soaping
The dyed cloth is soaped in I gm/litre (on the weight of material) neutral soap at 40°C for 15
15
minutes for removal of unfixed dyes so that overall fastness may be improved.
4.5.7 Washing
Washing: Then the dyed cloth is washed throughly in plain water before drying in shade.

4.6 PRACTICALS
4.6.1 Direct dye
Weight of yarn- 10 gms
Shade % - 0.5 Light
Shade Name- FAST ORANGE
Dyestuff- 0.05 gms
Soda Ash- 0.05 gms
Salt- 0.5 gms
Water- 200 ml
Procedure:
• Put the dyestuff and water (50℃) in a vessel and start raising the temperature.
• The yarn hank is put into it
• After 10 mins, put half of the total amount of salt in it.
• Stir and rotate the hank occasionally
• Again, after 10 mins remaining salt is added to it.
• 10 mins later, add soda ash and start checking the required time of dyeing according to
shade percentage.
After treatment:
i. Neutralize the yarn hank with acetic acid by adding water and required amount of
acetic acid to the yarn for 10 mins.
ii. Soaping: Take soaping agent as per the shade % in same quantity of water and put
the yarn in this solution for 10 mins.
iii. Hot Wash: Put the hank in hot water for about 5 mins.
iv. Cold wash: Wash it with cold water for 5 more mins.

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 4.2 Dyeing with direct dye 4.3 Dyed with Direct Dye

4.6.2 Reactive dye

COLD BRAND REACTIVE DYE
Weight of yarn- 10 gms
Shade % - 0.5 Light
Shade Name- PINK
Dyestuff- 0.05 gms
Soda Ash- 2 gms
Salt- 6 gms
Procedure:
• Put the dyestuff and water (room temperature) in a vessel.
• The yarn hank is put into it
• After 10 mins, put half of the total amount of salt in it.
• Stir and rotate the hank occasionally
• Again, after 10 mins remaining salt is added to it.
• 10 mins later, add soda ash and start checking the required time of dyeing according to
shade percentage.
After treatment:
17
 i. Neutralize the yarn hank with acetic acid by adding water (80℃) and required
amount of acetic acid to the yarn for 10 mins.
ii. Soaping: Take soaping agent as per the shade % in same quantity of water and put
the yarn in this solution for 10 mins.
iii. Hot Wash: Put the hank in hot water for about 5 mins.
iv. Cold wash: Wash it with cold water for 5 more mins.

4.4 Dyeing with Reactive dye

4.6.3 Vat dye

Weight of yarn- 10 gms
Shade % - 0.5 Light
Shade Name- NAVINON YELLOW GCN
Dyestuff- 0.1 gms
Water-200 ml
Wetting Agent- 0.01 gms
Sodium hydrosulphite- 1.4 gms
Caustic Soda- 1.2 gms
Vatting:
• A paste of dyestuff and wetting agent (1/10 of the dyestuff) has to be made,
18
 • To this paste 1/3 of the total water is added and caustic soda is mixed.
• Add 1/3rd of the hydro and boil for 5 mins.
• When the temperature of the dyebath reaches to 60℃ add the rest of the water and
remaining hydro to it.
• Stir and put the yarn hank immediately into the dyebath.
• Wait for the required time according to the shade percentage and stir in every 15 mins.
• Oxidation: Take the yarn hank out of the dyebath and air dry it for 20 mins.
• The shade of the hank changes to the desired colour on oxidation.
After treatment:
i. Neutralize the yarn hank with acetic acid by adding water and required amount of
acetic acid to the yarn for 10 mins.
ii. Soaping: Take soaping agent as per the shade % in same quantity of water and put
the yarn in this solution for 10 mins.
iii. Hot Wash: Put the hank in hot water (70℃) for about 5 mins.
iv. Cold wash: Wash it with cold water for 5 more mins.

4.5 Dyeing with Vat dye

4.6.4 Acid dye
Weight of yarn- 10 gms
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Shade % - 0.5 Light
Shade Name- FAST GREEN
Dyestuff- 0.05 gms
Water- 300 ml
Acetic acid- 1.2 ml
Procedure:
• Dyestuff is added to water at 40℃.
• When the temperature rises to 60℃, hank is put into it.
• At 70℃ add ½ the amount of acid and when it reaches 85℃ add rest of the acid.
• When the temperature rises to 95℃ , let the dyebath stay at this temperature for the required
time as per the shade percentage. After treatment begins after 10 mins.
After treatment:
i. Soaping: Take soaping agent as per the shade % in same quantity of water and put
the yarn in this solution for 10 mins.
ii. Hot Wash: Put the hank in hot water (70℃) for about 5 mins.
iii. Cold wash: Wash it with cold water for 5 more mins.

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 CHAPTER 5
PRINTING DEPARTMENT

5.1 Block Prints

Printing or Localised dyeing is done with the help of different tools and machines . like (Block;
Screen; Stencil/Roller on the surface.

3 STYLES OF PRINTING:

• DIRECT STYLE
• RESIST STYLE
• DISCHARGE STYLE ( White discharge ; Colour discharge)

5.1 DIRECT PRINTING : (BLOCK PRINTING)

Solid pieces of wood or a combination of tightly grained and less expensive woods are used to
carve wooden blocks with a design that stands out in relief. Enormous regions are recessed and
filled with firm wool felt in designs with large expanses. Copper strips are commonly used to
create fine lines, and copper strips interleaved with felt are used to create other effects. Each block
has multiple pitch pins arranged to coincide with well-defined places in the pattern to help with
registration of subsequent prints, or lays. Cloth is printed on a table covered in numerous layers of
cloth or blanket, with the entire surface covered in a thick sheet of firmly stretched synthetic
rubber.The cloth to be printed is spread on the rubber, either gummed in position or pinned to a

21
backcloth attached to the tableThe colour is evenly applied to the block, and the pattern is stamped
on the fabric to be printed, using the handle of a tiny heavy hammer, or maul, to help the paste
penetrate. To achieve true registration, more colour is applied to the block, and the process is
repeated with the pitch pin. After one colour has been completely printed on the fabric, the
remaining colours are applied in the same manner until the design is complete. Although block
printing has become too time-consuming and expensive for commercial usage, it has produced
some of the most stunning prints.

5.2 RESIST PRINTING :

Resist printing, any of several methods of colouring cloth in a pattern by pretreating designed areas
to resist dye penetration. A dye paste is put in the appropriate design to generate a two-color pattern
on products already dyed in one colour; the paste contains a substance resistant to a second dye,
which is then applied to the cloth, developing colour only in the regions not covered by the paste.
Resist printing includes techniques such as batik and tie-dyeing.

5.3 DISCHARGE PRINTING :

Discharge printing (also known as Extract Printing) is a process of applying a design to dyed cloth
by printing a color-destroying agent, such as chlorine or hydrosulfite, on the deeper coloured
ground to bleach out a white or light pattern. A dye impermeable to the bleaching agent is used
with it in colour-discharge printing, resulting in a coloured design instead of white on the dyed
ground.

5.4 METHODS OF PRINTING:

• BLOCK PRINTING
• STENCIL PRINTING
• SCREEN PRINTING
• ROLLER PRINTING
• FLAT BED SCREEN PRINTING
• ROTARY PRINTING
• TRANSFER PRINTING (SUBLIMATION).

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5.4.1 Pigment Printer Recipe

(i) Stock Binder SLN OIL/ WATER (base): 200g

(ii) Emulsion : 5g
(iii) Kerosene oil : 665g
(iv) Urea : 50g
(v) DAP( diammonium phosphate) : 30g
(vi) Water : 50g

This recipe given above is for 1kg pigment printer ; As kerosene oil is banned in India so instead
of kerosene oil we add more amount of emulsion in the paste.

5.4.2 Printing Paste Recipe

a) Shade ( According to shade percent): 5%

b) Colour : 50g
c) Fixer CCL : 10g
d) BINDER: 940g

This recipe given above for printing paste is for 1kg ;

If : Colour (less) Binder (more) .

i. UREA: Hygroscopic agent

ii. Diammonium phosphate : Catalyst
iii. Fixer : Crosslinking Agent

5.5 BLOCK PRINTING (WITHOUT TREATING WITH MORDANT)

5.5.1 Washing Cloth:

Mill bleached and mercerised cotton cloth has been taken as basic material for preparation of this
shade card. However, this cloth is washed by boiling with 2% (on the weight of material) ordinary
washing soap solution, in a liquor ratio of 1:30 (taken in all subsequent processes also) for 45

23
minutes to remove all kinds of finishing additives.

5.5.2 Preparing of Pigment Paste :

According to the recipe given above for printing paste the paste is prepared and then the printing
process starts . It is recommended to make paste everytime printing is done as the result of printing
is varied if kept stored for long time.

5.5.3 Preparation of Blocks :

In Block Printing blocks used are cleaned and dried so that no other colour is present on the blocks
three types of blocks are used in block printing “block for border”; “master block for main design”
; “design blocks for filling the pigment in design printed by master block”.

5.5.4 Pinning cloth :

After washing of cloth the cloth is dried fully in oven or air dried. And pinned on the flat surface
like table and the cloth is pinned tightly so no creases on cloth are visible and the cloth should
remain intact when pressure from blocks is applied.

5.5.5 Printing with block :

Firstly, border blocks are used to make border on the cloth it is as per the design.

Secondly, the master block is used to print the first design base on the cloth as per the design ,
master block is pressed and hammered gently with hand two to three times on cloth and it is to be
noted that if the first master block is hammered two time or three times each master block has to
be hammered same times or design variation can occur .

Lastly, if the design after the master block needs other colours filled the design blocks are used to
fill the colour in the design. Same like master block if the block is hammered single time initially
then it will be hammered for one time in the whole process of printing.

5.5.6 Drying of design:

As the block printing is done the fabric is air dried for a day or so to let the pigments dry out and
not bleed after washing.

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 5.2 Blocks and Prints

5.6 BLOCK PRINTING WITH NATURAL DYE AFTER TREATING WITH HARDA &
MORDANT

Cotton does not have affinity for all vegetable/natural dyes. Moreover, these dyes are not fast on
cotton unless it is pretreated with Tannic acid or some metal mordants. Harda is the natural source
of Tannic acid. The washed cloth is treated with a solution containing 20 gms per litre of Harda
powder at 40°C for 15 minutes with constant stirring. Then it is taken out from the bath and
squeezed evenly before drying in shade. Precaution is to be taken not to dry the treated cloth in
direct sun because the surface exposed to sun becomes darker in dyeing resulting uneven shades.
The wet cloth should not come in contact with iron otherwise it will turn black.

5.6.1 Removal of excess Harda powder from the cloth:

Excess Harda powder deposited on the surface of the cloth is removed by beating the cloth with a
miller or the cloth itself is beaten on a hard surface. It helps in good penetration of mordants and
dyes in the cloth in subsequent processes resulting better dyeing/printing qualities.

5.6.2 Preparing pigment:

the natural pigment is prepared in this process we can use synthetic pigments but harda treatment
will not show any changes in pigments if synthetic pigments are used. So we firstly prepare the

25
natural pigments by soaking the material in water overnight and then boiling it the next day till the

water remains ⅓ the original quantity . then squeeze out the extracted pigment and add thickener
to it until the desired consistency is obtained. In natural pigments it is recommended to make it
every time we have to use it as if stored for long time it can attract fungus and the printing quality
gets affected.

5.6.3 Treatment with Mordants:

Given below is the list of mordants that are used in printing adding of mordant directly to printing
paste before adding the thickener is one procedure or you can treat the cloth with mordant directly
as we do in dyeing .

5.1 Types of Mordants

S No. Name Of Mordant Quantity Treatment Time

(gms/l) temperature (Mins)
1 Stannous chloride 2 40℃ 15
2 Alum 10 NORMAL 15

3 Potassium dichromate 0.5 40℃ 15

4 Copper sulphate 1 40℃ 15

5 Ferrous sulphate 0.25 40℃ 15

5.6.4 Pinning Cloth :

After washing of cloth the cloth is dried fully in oven or air dried. And pinned on the flat surface
like table and the cloth is pinned tightly so no creases on cloth are visible and the cloth should
remain intact when pressure from blocks is applied.

5.6.5 Printing with Black Colour:

The process of preparation of black colour for printing is the same as is used for dyeing, mentioned
earlier. The fermented liquor prepared is mixed with Tamarind Kernal Powder (TKP) and the
mixture is boiled for 15 minutes. It is then cooled to normal temperature and printed on harda-

26
treated cloth to get black shade.

5.6.6 Drying of printed cloth:

The printed cloth is dried in the sun for 3 consecutive days so that there is enough time for the
mordant to react with Harda and fix properly on the cloth.

5.6.7 Washing of the printed cloth:

This is the most important and critical process in printing and dyeing of cloth with vegetable/
natural colours. The printed cloth is immersed in plain water in a big cemented tank, in opened
form keeping its face side towards the surface of the water. The thickening gets loose and diluted
after 15 mins. Then gentle rubbing by hand removes the thickening and unfixed minerals from the
cloth. Precaution should be taken that during initial stage of immersing and washing, the printed
portion of the cloth does not come in contact with other portion, otherwise patchy dyeing may
result.

5.6.8 Dyeing of printed cloth:

The printed and washed cloth is dyed with vegetable/natural dye in the same manner as mentioned
earlier.

5.6.9 Soaping & Washing:The dyed cloth is rinsed in plain water before soaping it with I
gm/litre neutral soap at 40°C for 15 mins. Then it is washed in plain water thoroughly to
remove excess soap. The cloth is squeezed evenly and dried in shade.

5.3 Printing with Natural colours

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 CHAPTER –6

WEAVING (HANDLOOM)

The interlacing of two sets of yarn — the warp

and the weft — is the process of weaving. The
loom is the piece of machinery that allows for
this interlacement. A "handloom" is a loom
that does not require power to weave cloth.
The manipulation of the foot pedals to raise
the warp must be coordinated with the shuttle's
throwing of the weft yarn. A flawless weave
necessitates mind-body synergy.

6.1 Handloom

6.1 PARTS OF HANDLOOM

6.1.1 Warp Roller:

The warp roller which consists of the lengthwise yarns is located at the back of the loom & it
releases the warp yarn to the weaving area of the loom as needed.

6.1.2 Handle:

The handle is provided on the warp roller to tighten or loosen the warp sheet which ultimately
changes the tightness factor of the fabric.

6.1.3 Back Beam:

To maintain the constant tension and proper angle to the warp sheet.

6.1.4 Heddles:

it is a frame to hold the heald wires. Heald wire is a wire with a hole or eye in its centre through
which a warp yarn is threaded. In some cases heald wires made out of cotton or synthetic yarn are
also used.

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6.1.5 Bobbin and Shuttle:

The weft yarn wound on a bobbin (pirn), which sets into a shuttle. As the shuttle passes back and
forth through the warp shed, it releases weft yarn from the pirn.

6.1.6 Beater:

This is inevitably a combination made up of metallic wires set vertically in a frame. The spaces
between the wires are known as dents. There is a beater which has a Reed frame mounted on it.
The weaver holds the beater and gives beater a to and fro motion for beating the last pick to the
fell of the cloth.

6.1.7 Cloth roller:

It is located at the front of the loom. After completion of weaving the woven fabric is wound on
it.

6.1.8 Treadles:

These are located at the bottom of the loom and are designed to control warp shed formation by
controlling the up and down movement of the heddles. The weaver presses the treadles by their
feet for shed formation. The shed on a handloom is controlled manually by giving proper
movement to the treadles using foot.

6.2 MOTIONS OF LOOM

Motions of looms are broadly classified in two sections “PRIMARY MOTION” &
“SECONDARY MOTION” and then sub categorized into different sections.

6.2.1 PRIMARY MOTION:

▪ SHEDDING MOTION
▪ PICKING MOTION
▪ BEATING UP MOTION

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6.2.2 SECONDARY MOTION:

▪ TAKEP MOTION
▪ LET OFF MOTION

MOTIONS OF
MM
LOOM
SHEDDING
MOTION

TAKE UP
PRIMARY SECONDARY MOTION
MOTION MOTION

PICKING
MOTION

LET OFF
BEATING UP
MOTION
MOTION

6.3 MOUNTING OF LOOM

First of all it has to be decided how many heddles and treadles need to be used to make a particular
design or weave. It is decided by drawing one repeat of the weave. The number of different warp
and weft interlacements in the weave will decide the number of treadles and heddles required. The
plain weave requires only two different interlacement for warp and weft hence only two treadles
and heddles are required. In the handloom weaving, weaver has to do drafting, denting, as well as
the tying up of the treadles with the heddles according to the design required. The plain weave
requires only two different interlacement for warp and weft hence only two treadles and heddles
are required. In the handloom weaving, weaver has to do drafting, denting, as well as the tying up
of the treadles with the heddles according to the design required.

30
6.4 PREPARATION OF LOOM

The loom parameters like correct warp tension, proper opening of shed, reed movement etc, is to
be checked to ensure whether the loom is compatible for weaving or not. If not the weaver has to
make adjustments in the above as required and should take precautions, to minimize or avoid the
yarn breakages. It is the weaver’s responsibility to check the shed opening by false picking and
reed movement by false beating.

Pirn Winding: A simple machine is used for pirn winding in handloom. There is a wheel and a
metallic shaft, which are connected with each other with the help of rope for transferring motion.
The hank is mounted on the wheel and the pirn is mounted on the shaft. The yarn from the hank is
transferred on to the pirn by rotating the wheel.

Precautions: While winding care should be taken and ensure

• Uniform tension is maintained till the pirn get filled.

• The groove of the pirn should be kept empty.
• The yarn should be filled on the pirn to optimum level.

31