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Choosing: Filler
Choosing: Filler
Once you have decided that you intend to weld molds, tools or dies,
you will need to make a list of all the different types of tool metals
that you are likely to come across. You will have to decide, with the
help of this chapter, exactly what you want because there are sup-
pliers that will sell you what they have, not necessarily what you need.
Write down as much information about each tool metal as possible:
chemical composition, e.g. 0.35C, 5.0Cr, 1 .OV, 1.5Mo; material
name, e.g. H13; hardness, e.g. 52-55HRC, and whether the tool is
to have a special finish, e.g. case hardened, high polish, photo/acid
etch. This list will be the basis for your filler wire selection. If you need
help to identify your material, go to Chapter 3.
Base metals
Modified 420
8 , 9 8 , 9 9 8,9 8 , 9 8 , 9 8 , 9
8.98,9 8,9 9
Photo/acid etch
This is very important and probably the least understood field in mold
repair. The practical welding technique is discussed in Chapter 6,
page 98, ‘Welding photo/acid etched and polished tools’, but in this
section only filler wires are discussed. Choosing the wrong filler wire
for an acid etched repair will give dark or bald patches on your
molded plastic component. If you have had this problem, you will
understand what I mean. You must choose a wire that corrodes at
the same rate as the parent metal.
In some cases you may need to repair a tool that does not have
a matching filler wire, e.g. 2767 (EN30B, 6F7, Cly die, Rab 1, 4%Ni
types). In this case you can use a piece of parent metal as discussed
in Chapter 6, page 101, ‘Using base metal as a filler wire’, or you can
try to match its corrosive potential by using a filler wire with a similar
percentage of alloys. For example, I welded a 2767 (0.45C, 0.40 Mn,
4.1ONi, 1.40Cr, 0.30Mo) test piece with my medium hard general-
purpose 50HRC tool steel filler wire (0.4C, 2 . 5 0 , 4.5W, 0.5v)
and found that they both etched to a similar depth, so, if in doubt,
‘experiment’!
Cheapest filler
This is basically a money-saving tip because some tool steel filler
wires can be very expensive, e.g. if I had to repair a large D2 punch
46 Handbook of mold, tool and die repair welding
tool which needed a large amount of weld, I would lay down a single
layer of 312 stainless steel to act as a buffer layer, build up the bulk
of the repair with 41 0 stainless steel then the last three or four layers
of weld would be my general-purpose 60HRC hard filler wire; see
Chapter 6, page 103, ‘Economical weld technique (bulking out)’. As
you can see from Table 4.2, this technique can be used on most
tool steels.
Hardness (HRC)
This entails finding out what hardness is required and matching that
to the filler wires that are available. I am quite happy to use my two
general-purpose filler wires on any tool steel to achieve a required
hardness unless a ‘matching filler’ is required. Avoid using low alloy,
high carbon tool steel filler wire as a general-purposefiller as this may
cause problems with higher alloy tools.
Butter/crack repair
When repairing cracked and broken tools it is easier to use a filler
wire that has more give (elongation properties) than the parent metal
to reduce the risk of cracking during welding and to reduce the risk
of further cracking during the tool’s productive life. When repairing
cracks I will use as much 31 2 stainless steel or lnconel 625 type weld
metal as possible and then finish off with at least three layers of my
final wire; see Chapter 6, Fig. 6.6(b), page 60, and 6.47(d), page 96.
Where possible, I will always try to use a matching filler wire to retain
the tool’s original properties but there are many cases when this is
not practical, especially on high carbon and high speed tools which
would need to be annealed first. Generally the most important part
of repairing cracked and broken mold tools, punches and dies is
achieving minimum distortion so that only minimum re-machining and
finishing are necessary after welding, thereby minimizing down time.
Annealing these tools before welding is not an option.
Choosing your filler wire 47
(a) Weld tab to work piece (b) Hit off with hammer,
as close to edge as possible against the weld
in a discreet area
Fig. 4.1
48 Handbook of mold, tool and die repair welding
tool metal, tab testing could at least give you a reasonable option.
There are two types of tab test:
Tab test 1. Run an inch of weld on a discreet part of your tool
with the filler wire or wires you think could be suitable and try to
chisel it off. Then you will have to make a decision whether you
think it held firm or not.
Tab test 2. Your tab test metal is not part of your tool - it will be
a piece of scrap metal (bar or plate) which has been prepared
from a known source. Decide on which filler wire or wires you
think may be suitable. Cut a piece of metal to use as a tab, ideally
50mm x 25mm x 5mm for each filler wire you intend to try.
Make sure that your tab metal is made out of a material that is
compatible with your test filler wire. Weld the tab onto a discreet,
area on your tool as shown in Fig. 4.1. and try to hit it off with a
hammer in the direction shown. Then you will have to decide
whether you think it held firm or not.