BUYING A YACHT

NEW OR SECOND-HAND

BARRY PICKTHALL
Contents
1. Introduction
2. Types of yacht
3. Extended cruising
4. To buy, share or charter?
5. What can I afford?
6. Surveys: the key elements
7. The trial sail
8. Where to base her?
9. Paperwork
10. Training and qualifications
11. Useful addresses
Glossary
Acknowledgements
1 Introduction
It could be one of the most expensive purchases you make…

Look before you leap

Buy the right boat for your needs and you will be a happy boat owner.
Don’t fall into the trap of allowing your heart to rule your head by falling in
love with the first boat you see, and then regretting the purchase. This book
provides a step-by-step guide to buying a yacht, new or second hand, it
steers you around the hidden pitfalls, provides money-saving advice and
helps you to select one that will give you years of enjoyment.

TIP
If you are buying though a dealer or from stock, check that the
company operates a client account, and make payments directly to
that account name.
 Ten questions to ask yourself before signing the cheque
1. Who will use the yacht?
2. How will you use her?
3. How often will the yacht be used?
4. Where will you operate her?
5. What is your budget?
6. What type of yacht will best suit your temperament?
7. Which construction type should you opt for?
8. Where should you base her?
9. Should you opt for single or shared ownership?
10. Should you charter her?

This book takes you through the thought processes that will lead to the
right type of boat for you – at the right price.
1. Who will use the yacht?
Just family, or will you have friends onboard? This can have a
bearing on size and interior layout

2. How will you use her?

• Day sailing?
• Racing?
 • Weekend cruising?
• Week-long excursions?
• Extended cruising?

3. How often will the yacht be used?

Seasonally or year-round?

4. Where will you operate her?

• Estuary/inshore sailing?
• Offshore?
• Transocean?
• Live aboard?

5. What is your budget?

• Determine what you can afford, including ongoing costs.
These include:
• Mooring fees
• Insurance
• Registration fees
• Safety equipment
• Annual maintenance including lift-outs for scrubbing
• Sailing instruction courses
6. What type of yacht will best suit your temperament?
• Are you competitive by nature, or prefer to cruise leisurely from
one destination to the next?
• If you plan to race, then performance may take priority over interior
comforts.
• For cruising, seaworthiness, ease of handling and protection from
wind and waves will be of most importantance.

7. What construction type should you opt for?

• Fibre reinforced plastic
• Wood
• Aluminium
• Steel
• Ferro-cement

8. Where to base her?

• On a trailer at home
• Swinging mooring
• Trots
• Marina
9. Single or shared ownership
• : Fully owned
• Shared with family
• Shared with partner(s)
• Consortium

10. To buy or charter?

Divide the number of days that you anticipate using the yacht by the
annual budget. It may prove much cheaper to charter.
2 Types of yacht
Almost certainly, the right boat is out there waiting for you. Selecting her will
involve emotional and practical considerations. I yearn to own a Morgan sports
car but also need a vehicle to carry young grandchildren, as well as a tool chest,
down to the boat yard during winter months, and to be able to throw a
lawnmower in the back. A two-seater cannot cope with any of that. Buying a
yacht requires the same practical thought processes.

Design
Racing, they say, improves the breed, and this is certainly the case with yacht
design, which in five decades, has progressed from traditional narrow, heavy
displacement hulls with integral keel and rudder profiles to much more efficient
wide beam, light displacement forms with all manner of keel and rudder
configurations. The greater volume within modern designs, developed to
increase form stability and improve performance off the wind, has the practical
benefit for cruising in providing more volume below, allowing for bigger
berths, a fully fitted galley and heads (toilet), even in the most modestly sized
yachts.

There has been a marked change in hull profiles too. The graceful raked bows
that mark out yachts from the 1950s to 1980s have given way to plumb bows
and sterns, drawn to extend waterline length and thus speed and, as a by-
product, extend internal volume. There is a financial advantage too, for by
minimising bow and stern overhangs, berthing fees are proportionally less.
Compare this 1960s era long keeled cruising design with the modern lines
of a similar-sized Beneteau First 31.7 production cruiser which has far
more internal volume, a deeper keel and greater stability.

Interior layout within a modern Beneteau First 235 (7.2m) cruising yacht:
double berth under the cockpit, twin berths forward, dinette arrangement,
galley, nav station (with heads beneath seat) and a stowage locker for
sails. Similar accommodation in a traditional hull would require 30ft+
overall length.

Construction types

Fibre-reinforced plastic
Fibre-reinforced plastic yachts are by far the most popular, being lighter
and relatively low maintenance. They are long lasting and hold their value
well. Indeed, many of the early GRP yachts built during the 1960s are still
going strong and commanding good prices in the brokerage columns.
Later models are often moulded using more exotic materials to the simple
chopped strand glass mat and incorporate Kevlar and even carbon fibre to
provide greater strength without increasing overall weight.
When purchasing second hand, look for stress cracks around the
shroud plates, mast slot and corners within the moulding. Star crazing
within the gel coat around the hull and deck is a clue to minor impact
damage.
Check also for signs of osmosis. This water penetration through the
outer gel coat manifests itself as small blisters below the waterline. This is
expensive to repair, requiring the gel coat to be planed off, the hull dried,
and the affected areas re-coated with an epoxy-based resin.
Wooden
Wooden yachts have more character but require more work. If you don’t
enjoy maintenance as much as sailing, steer clear of these.
If you are certain about buying a classic, then a survey is essential. Rot is
the most prevalent enemy and will manifest itself anywhere where rain
water gets trapped and soaks into the wood.
Vessels moored in salt water fare much better than those kept on a lake or
river, but marinas, even those opening on to the sea, are often fed by fresh
water streams which results in a brackish water environment, and is no
kinder to wood than fresh water.
Wooden boats require regular maintenance to keep on top of a
deteriorating atmosphere; wood should never be allowed to peel or go
bare, and requires annual painting. Wooden boats are a labour of love. Be
sure they are for you before you invest.
Aluminium or steel
Metal fabricated hulls are strong but require regular painting to minimise
corrosion. They can also suffer from condensation in winter months
unless they are well insulated. When buying second-hand, a survey is
imperative. Check in particular for signs of electrolytic corrosion between
hull plating and bronze fittings and stern gear.
Ferro-cement
Ferro-cement yachts are often amateur constructed. They are, however,
relatively easy to construct by plastering concrete over a wire frame and,
providing the wire remains encased, and not allowed to rust, these hulls
can be very durable. They have a low second-hand value.

Hull/keel configurations

Full-length keel with stern-hung rudder

Era: Pre 1970s
Pros: Good directional stability. Excellent sea keeping qualities
Cons: Narrow beam, minimising accommodation. Unpredictable when
steering astern.
Twin bilge keels with skeg-hung rudder
Era: Post mid-1960s
The purpose of the twin bilge keel concept is to provide a tripod of ‘feet’
so the yacht stands upright when taking to the ground.
Pros: Allows yacht to be beached, even on stony ground. Particularly
suitable where moorings dry out at low tide. If you run aground, the boat
stays upright. Also, when laying up over the winter, the boat does not
need a cradle.
Cons: Not as efficient as a fin keeled configuration when sailing upwind.
Their offset position can also create weather helm when the yacht is over-
pressed.

Separate fin and skeg-hung rudder

Era: Post 1970s
Pros: Less wetted area than full-length keel and more predictable when
steering astern. Excellent sea-keeping qualities.
Cons: Narrow beam though 1980s era saw beam width increasing.
Shoal keel
Era: Post 1980s - A shallow fin keel often with a bulb on the bottom to
provide a similar righting moment to the deeper fin keel.
Pros: Shallow draft suitable for use in rivers and estuaries.
Cons: Less efficient than a standard fin keel, offering less lateral
resistance upwind.
Drop keel
Era: Post 1960s - Acts like a daggerboard inside vertical trunking with a
winch or block and tackle to raise the keel. In the event of a knockdown, a
locking mechanism keeps the keel from sliding back up its casing.
Pros: The trunk is much narrower than with a swing keel and its ‘stiletto’
shape, which often includes a bulb on the bottom, is more efficient.
Cons: If you run aground, this puts a great deal of stress on the trunking.
The trunking also acts as a huge cabin divider. When the keel is raised,
then so too is the centre of gravity and the boat becomes more tippy.
Wing keel
Era: Post mid-1980s - A fin keel with winglets on the tip to provide an
end-plate effect to maintain water flow around the lower section of the
foil.
Pros: More efficient than a fin keel. The wing also adds weight to the
bottom of the keel and extends the depth of the foil when the yacht is
heeled over.
Cons: If you run aground, the wing is more susceptible to damage and
getting stuck in mud.

Asymmetric daggerboards
Era: Post 1990s - This is where the trunking is offset from the centreline.
Pros: This offers the same shallow draft benefits of the swing keel,
without the trunking taking up space in the middle of the cabin. Instead,
the trunking for the lifting daggerboards form part of the side berths and
remain unobtrusive.
Cons: Two keels to worry about rather than one.
Swing keel
Era: Post 1970s. A heavier version of the sheet metal centre plate used in
early dinghies and day boats. Now available in much larger shoal draft
cruising yachts.
Pros: Provides a similar performance to a fin keel while providing the
ability to beach the yacht. If you accidently run aground, you simply
crank up the keel and sail away. Some swing keel designs like those fitted
in the Southerly range, have a cast iron grounding plate which serves as
fixed ballast and protects the bottom when drying out. Jeanneau
(opposite) house their swing keel within a stub keel and the yacht is
supported by this and her twin rudders when taking the ground.
Cons: Early designs used a steel pin to lock the keel in its ‘down’
position. If you ran aground, this could become bent and difficult to
remove.

The swing keel in operation

Southerly hydraulic swing keel system
 A Southerly 42 RST swing keel cruising yacht has a cast-iron grounding
plate let into the hull moulding which allows it to sit safely even on rough,
stony beaches.

The swing keel within the Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 30I is housed in a stub
keel and is supported by this and her twin rudders when taking the
ground.

Rigs
Bermudan masthead sloop
Most common cruising rig with triangular mainsail and full height
overlapping genoa.
Fractional rig
Modern alternative to the masthead rig.
Pros: The smaller jib makes for easier sail handling. The mainsail is often
fully battened and relies on a simple slab reefing system to lessen area.
Cons: Long boom can drag in water when overpressed making it difficult to
spill wind.
Cutter rig
Similar to the masthead rig but with a staysail set as an intermediate sail
between the genoa and mainsail.
Pros: More efficient than the standard sloop when sailing just off the wind.
Cons: Not as close-winded as the sloop rig.
Gaff rig
Traditional sail plan with a quadrilateral mainsail supported at the top by a
gaff spar.
Pros: Simple to hoist and reef, and has a lower centre of pressure than a
sloop rig.
Cons: Not as efficient as the sloop rig, and has more weight aloft.
Junk rig
Fully-battened mainsail favoured by some for short-handed sailing because
of its ease of reefing.
Pros: Simple to reef.
Cons: Not as efficient as a sloop rig.
Ketch rig
Two-masted rig with the mizzen mast set ahead of the rudder post.
Pros: Popular for long distance cruising because the individual sails are
smaller and thus easier to handle.
Cons: Greater expense.
Cat/Freedom rig
A simple rig popular in the USA with a large mainsail set on an unstayed
mast, close to the bow. The wishbone boom is similar to those used on
sailboards.
Pros: Inexpensive and simple to reef.
Cons: Not as efficient as a sloop rig.
Yawl rig
Two masted rig with the mizzen mast set behind the rudder.
Pros: The mizzen sail is smaller than on a ketch and thus easier to handle.
Cons: Like the ketch, greater expense and not as efficient as a fractional rig.
 Trailer/sailer
A trailer/sailer is a large dinghy-styled day sailer, or small yacht (with a
retractable keel) that can be towed behind the family car. Their advantage lies
in being able to explore shallow cruising grounds and be beached safely when
the tide recedes. There is a financial benefit too because they can be stored on
their trailer at home rather than in a marina or on a mooring. Most trailer/sailers
have the facility to mount an outboard motor.

Drascombe Drifter 22
The Drascombe Drifter 22 is the largest in the traditionally lined Drascombe
trailer/sailer range. She is equipped with twin drop keels and a lifting rudder
to give clear space within the cockpit and cabin, and shallow draft. She has a
simple loose footed gunter yawl rig, and the main mast is raised and lowered
while the boat is on its trailer, using the trailer winch to take the strain out of
the process. Accommodation includes two single berths that can convert into
a double, together with cooking and toilet facilities. An optional cockpit tent
offers further accommodation for children.

Trailer/sailers like the Drascombe Drifter 22 are designed to be

launched and recoverd singlehandedly. Rigging and die-rigging is
also simple, using the trailer winch to raise and lower the mast.
 Day sailer
Day sailers, like the 18ft 9in (5.7m) Drascombe Lugger (right) with its
traditional gaff rig, mizzen sail and retracting steel centreplate, can be
configured for family cruising. This fibreglass design is easy to launch and
recover from a trailer, has a deep cockpit, and their distinctive tan coloured
sails are boomless, therefore avoiding possible head injury from a gybing
boom.
Alternatively, sports boats like the 20ft 2in (6.1m) Laser SB3 with its large
sail area and asymmetric spinnaker are not only exciting to sail but offer
competitive class racing throughout the world. This fibreglass design has a
lifting keel rather like a daggerboard in a dinghy, in order for it to be
launched from a slipway, and is lowered and raised once the boat is in
deeper water using a removable crane (opposite). The boat packs down on to
a two-wheel trailer and is light enough to be towed by a family car. The
latest swing-cradle trailers remove the need to immerse the wheels during
launching and recovery which extend bearing and brake life considerably.
Laser SB3
 1. Laser SB3 detail. 2. Keel is raised for launching and recovery using
this removable crane. 3. Easy to launch - without necessarily getting
the trailer wheels wet. 4. Ready to be towed home.

Trailer yacht
These are small yachts with fixed or lifting keels designed for cruising and
racing on inshore and coastal waters. Ranging in size from 17-24ft (5.2-
7.3m) they have a ballast ratio of around 30% (percentage of keel weight to
total weight of yacht) and offer basic accommodation, easy transportation
and launching. Examples featured in this book include the J24 (7.3m)
(below), the 20ft 2in (6.1m) Beneteau First 20.7, the 21ft 9in (6.6m)
Jeanneau Sun 2000, and for the more traditionally minded, the Drascombe
Drifter 22 which can accommodate a family of three or four.

Towing
Towing regulations In many countries stipulate that the dry weight of the
towing vehicle must, at a minimum, equal the weight of the loaded trailer,
which must also be fitted with brakes. Within the European Union, brakes
are not required on fully loaded trailers below 750kg and where the vehicle
is at least twice the weight of the tow. From October 2012, all trailers used
within the EU must have side as well as tail lights, requiring the car to be
wired up with a 13-pin plug rather than the old 7-pin system. Some countries
also restrict the driving age to those over 21 and you may be required to pass
an additional driving test.

TIP
Before buying a boat, check that your vehicle meets the legal
restrictions to tow the weight of the boat and its trailer. The car
handbook will list the maximum safe towing weight.

Sports boats
Typically 20-30ft (6-8m) with a basic cabin, these high performance yachts
can still be towed behind a large vehicle, but invariably require a crane to
launch and recover them. Evergreen designs like the 24ft (7.3m) J24, carry a
traditional spinnaker, but more recent designs like the Melges 24, the 26ft
3in (8m) and J80 are all equipped with masthead asymmetric gennakers
flown from the end of retractable bowsprits. All are racing oriented sports
boats with the emphasis on performance, and have very basic interiors.

Melges 24
J80
J24
 Jeanneau Sun 2000

This popular French trailer/sailer offers hassle-free preparation, easy

transportation, good stability and speed, a large comfortable cockpit and
creative use of interior space.
Beneteau 21.7
This evergreen trailer/sailer is the baby within the Beneteau range. She
is equipped with twin rudders and has recently undergone an interior
re-design to provide twin quarter berths and double berth forward.
 Second-hand yachts
Pre-owned yachts offer a very cost-effective entry to sailing. Most are
moulded from glass reinforced plastic (GRP) and these have been a popular
choice since the first of this kind were built in the late 1960s and 70s. It is
quite possible to buy a serviceable second-hand boat for between £4,000 and
£10,000.
Compared to the latest offerings, these boats are quite basic in their
appearance, especially below decks, so it is a question of finding an example
that has benefitted from years of tender loving care. Yachts, especially those
from a well-respected builder, hold their value remarkably well and you can
expect to recover your initial investment, just as previous owners have done.
Westerly was a leading brand both in the UK and America during the 1970s
and their boats are ideal examples of production yachts from that era. See
Guidance to buying second-hand (page 72). 398 of these popular 22ft (6.7m)
fin-keeled Westerly Cirrus yachts were built between 1968 and 1972. The
design packed in two berths forward, a quarter berth under the port cockpit
seat, a small dinette on the starboard side that folds down into another berth,
opposite the galley area. There is also a separate toilet compartment
squeezed in between the forward and main cabins. The John Butler design
carries 233sq ft (21.6sq m) of sail on a fractional rig, together with optional
spinnaker measuring 112sq ft (10.51sq m). She is also fitted with an inboard
engine.

Westerly Cirrus

The Westerly Cirrus, a trend-setting pocket cruiser developed in the

late 1960s that still provides excellent value on the second-hand
market.
Westerly Centaur
The Westerly Centaur is one of the most popular British built yachts, with
some 2,500 launched between 1969 and 1984. A centre-cockpit version was
also produced called the Chieftain. While most were sold with a sloop rig, a
few yachts were equipped with ketch rigs. She was one of the first mass-
produced yachts to have her underwater shape developed in a test tank,
which explains why this bilge keeler sails so well. The Centaur was fitted
out with either a five or six berth layout and had a Volvo inboard engine.

The 26ft Westerly Centaur was sold in several guises: as the aft cokpit
sloop rigged version (above) and with a ketch rig. Her interior design
packed in five or six berths.
 Pocket cruiser racing yachts
Typically 20-26ft (6.1-8m) with a cabin and either lifting, fixed or bilge
keels, these small yachts can still be towed behind a large car, but invariably
require a crane to launch and recover them. Other small yachts like the 25ft
11 in (7.9m) Beneteau First 25.7 featured here, are more cruiser/racer
orientated with better headroom and a full interior that includes a galley,
table, head (toilet) and navigation table, together with 4-5 berths counting
the seating in the main cabin.

Beneteau First 25.7

 Mid-sized cruising yachts 27-50ft (8.3-15.2m)
27ft (8.3m) is by most reckoning, the minimum practical size of yacht for
extended cruising and sailing abroad, though of course there are instances
where hardy people have crossed oceans in smaller. The smallest to date is
the 5ft 4in (1.6m) Father’s Day in which American Hugo Vihlen sailed from
Newfoundland to England in 1993 but you can bet creature comforts were
rather less than in a prisoner of war camp sweat box!

There is an old saying that yacht length (in ft) should measure the same as
your age. The longer the boat, the smoother the ride, so when you turn 50,
you should be looking at a 50 footer (15.2m) yacht. Bank balances don’t
always allow for that, but if you are planning to do extended cruising, don’t
just think about the number of berths, but the stowage space and recreational
area available. For anything more than a weekend, a 27ft (8.3m) yacht
becomes pretty cramped with more than two on board. 32-38ft (9.7-11.6m)
is the comfortable optimum for 4 people sleeping at opposite ends of the
boat while sharing the communal area amidships, and 46-50ft (14-15.2m) is
really what is needed for six people to live in harmony for any length of
time. If your sailing adventures are going to be limited to coastal cruising
with overnight stops, then you can fill every berth on board. Kids in
particular love a scrum and all will happily nest away in the smallest of
spaces playing games or watching videos. And, providing adults can look
forward to getting ashore to a shower block, they will be happy too.

The Hunter Channel 31, like others within the Hunter range, is available
with either fin or twin bilge keel options. Her 3-cabin layout provides 6
berths, a well appointed galley and large heads. Her inset transom allows
easy access onboard from a dinghy and doubles as a swim platform. This
yacht has a self-tacking jib and all lines lead back to the cockpit. Like other
Hunter yachts, the Channel 31 is available fully fitted or as bare mouldings
ready for home completion.
Hunter Channel 31
The Hunter Channel 31 offers a lively performance and her bright and
airy 3-cabin layout, incorporating a double berth under the cockpit,
sleeps six in some comfort.
Hallberg-Rassy 310
The Hallberg-Rassy 310 is the latest in a long line of introductory designs to
this famous Swedish range of yachts. More than 2,000 have been built over
the years, and this latest Germán Frers design incorporates the very best
elements from this experience.

The new model is wider than her predecessor giving greater room below,
and with her short overlap jib and push button winches and furling gear, she
is easy to sail with just one or two people. A Code Zero or gennaker can be
flown between the masthead and a removable bowsprit. She also carries the
trademark Hallberg-Rassy windscreen, integrated rubbing strake and a lead
keel.

The interior is bright and roomy for her size, with four opening skylights and
nine port lights providing light and ventilation. The 2m L-shape sofa and the
straight settee convert into berths. The galley is set to one side away from
the main thoroughfare and is fitted with double sinks and a fridge with a
basket to organise small items. The counter top is solid PlexiCor composite
stone.

The generous sized cabins fore and aft have double berths, and plenty of
stowage space. The aft cabin also has vanity and hanging locker. The toilet
compartment is well ventilated and the counter top and sink match the
kitchen work top. The 310 is very close winded (33°) and will clip along at
11 knots+ with gennaker set on a broad reach in 20 knots of wind. She is
powered by a 22hp diesel engine and has a tank range of almost 400 miles.
The interior of the Halberg-Rassy 310 comprises double cabins fore
and aft and a large saloon with settee berths. The gallley is set on the
starboard side of the companionway steps.
Jeanneau Sunfast 3200
This Jeanneau built one-design class racer/cruiser design was named
European Yacht of the Year in 2008 and is moulded using an automated
vacuum infusion process to ensure very tight weight and shape tolerances.
The yacht has a high level of equipment as standard, a Yanmar 15hp diesel
inboard engine and a well furnished interior. The class offers close one-
design racing, but the design also has a competitive rating for handicap
racing.

The Sunfast 3200 is a low tolerence one-design with a favourable

rating for handicap racing.

Beneteau First 30
The First 30 combines performance with a high level of comfort below. The
3-cabin layout provides double berths forward and beneath the cockpit,
together with a large communal cabin amidships with galley and nav station.
There is a separate toilet compartment opposite the aft cabin. The design has
a slender T-shaped bulb keel to provide a low centre of gravity and the rig is
supported by swept-back spreaders to avoid the necessity for a back stay.
The Beneteau First 30 with its avant garde graphics on hull and sails.
The Sun Odyssey 379 is a performance cruiser with a difference, offering
not just push-button sailing but joy-stick manoeuvring under power. The
French design is one of the first to take advantage of the ZF 360° pivoting
sail drive, which takes all the pain out of berthing in a tight spot. The
joystick transmits the commands to a control box, which uses the autopilot
to lock the helm. Then, a simple movement of the joystick controls the
orientation and the thrust of the pod, as well as the bow thruster to move the
boat backwards, forwards or sideways.
The interior design marries solid wood, stainless steel and light fabrics to
provide a warm feeling. The galley has numerous storage compartments, a
high-capacity fridge, and there is large saloon table, a hanging locker in the
saloon and easy conversion of seating areas to berths. The design is also
available with three keel options, a standard wing keel, a shoal keel and a
swing keel which varies draft between 3ft 7in and 7ft 4in (11-2.2m).

Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 379

The Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 379 is a performance cruiser with a
modern, spacious interior with double berth cabins fore and aft
(opposite).
The Sun Odyssey 379 is fitted with a pivoting sail drive system which,
linked to the bow thruster, provides simple 360° manoeuvrability using
a joystick sited in the cockpit.
Southerly 42 RST
The Southerly 42 RST combines a fast, modern hull for good performance,
with stability and comfort for blue water cruising. The modern plumb stem
maximises waterline length and her broad transom provides volume aft, for
performance and interior space.

Deck styling and a sociable cockpit layout with twin helm positions, makes
this a comfortable and easy to sail blue water cruising yacht.

All Southerly yachts are equipped with an hydraulic swing keel (see page
16) which has the versatility of having a deep aerofoil-shaped keel for
performance, the ability to navigate in very shallow waters and take to the
ground safely. Below decks, the large raised saloon seating area with its all-
round views, provides a focal point for comfortable dining whilst at anchor,
and the swing keel mechanism remains unobtrusive, hidden within the
dinette seating. The well equipped galley and nav station are both positioned
to starboard of the central companionway.

A two cabin layout is standard with a large double aft cabin, enjoying a
centreline berth and en-suite facilities. A three cabin layout is also available.
The Southerly has a self tacking jib on a roller furler and all leads and sheets
run ‘unseen’ through deck conduit back to the cockpit to provide simple
push-button control.

The keel mechanism within the Southerly 42 RST swing keel cruising
yacht has a large cast iron insert within the hull which the yacht sits on
when taking the ground. Her raised deck design provides for a
spacious main saloon with 180° vision.
The Oyster 46 raised saloon cruiser/racer has a high spec spacious
interior with two twin berth cabins forward, a master suite aft,
spacious saloon and large galley sited either side of the companionway
leading back to the aft cabin.
Oyster 46
The Oyster 46 is a true ocean-going cruiser/racing yacht with a large,
sheltered centre cockpit. She has good headroom throughout her 3-cabin
accommodation layout, which allows six to sleep in comfort, without using
the saloon. The owner enjoys en-suite facilities, whilst the forward two
cabins share a comfortable heads and shower. This is the smallest in the
Oyster range which progresses up to their 125ft (38.1m) flagship. The 46 is
available with either a standard fin or shoal draft keel and standard alloy
cruising rig or lightweight carbon fibre spars.
Beneteau Oceanis 50
The Oceanis 50 is available with the option of three or four cabin layouts
either with the master suite forward to minimise disturbance when moored
stern-to and two double cabins beneath the cockpit, or set aft to provide two
really spacious double cabins with en-suite facilities. By converting the
dinette and utilising the settee in the saloon, it is possible to sleep 13
onboard. She is finished to a very high specification and was voted ‘Yacht of
the Year’ in the under 100ft (30.4m) category when launched in 2007.
The Beneteau Oceanis 50 offers the choice of a master suite forward
(above) or twin double cabins beneath the cockpit. The galley is sited
to one side of the main saloon (below).
Bavaria Cruiser 50
The Bavaria Cruiser 50 is a great example of German precision boatbuilding.
Manufactured in one of Europe’s most modern facilities, everything about
Bavaria yachts scream form and function. The Cruiser 50 is available in
either a 3, 4 or a 5 cabin layout with plenty of light shining through a large
array of deck hatches. Common to all is the owner’s suite in the bow area,
furthest away from a noisy dockside. Her 18ft 7in (4.7m) beam makes for a
cavernous interior which can be fitted out in a wide variety of woods and
fabrics. Her large cockpit with its twin wheel steering and dinette table
opens up at the transom to provide a large boarding platform.
The Bavaria Cruiser 50 has huge interior volume, and the optional 3,
4, and 5 cabin layouts maximise this. Common to all is the large
owner’s suite (below) sited in the forward cabin.
 Multihulls
Cruising multihulls, generally catamarans, have several advantages over
monohulls. These include greater speed when sailing off the wind, a large
foredeck for sunbathing and far greater volume below decks. This invariably
takes the form of a wide communal cabin across the bridge deck coupled
with private sleeping quarters, galley and heads within the two hulls. Their
greatest attribute in many eyes, however, is the fact that multihulls don’t heel
over like monohulls, but are susceptible to weight limitations. A full
compliment of crew and their attendant gear invariably saps their speed
advantage.

Since multihulls rely on their form for stability rather than weighty keels,
most are fitted with retractable daggerboards which allows them to be
beached safely and sit on a drying mooring. Trimarans (3 hulls) carry more
form stability than a twin hulled catamaran, but have less volume below
decks.
Onboard the Lagoon 400, the large bridge deck with its panoramic views
and sliding glass door opening out to the cockpit, makes this a great social
area onboard. The galley is well sited against the cockpit bulkhead to serve
both areas. The hulls are devoted to sleeping areas with en-suite facilities.
The master suite situated in the starboard hull is accessed via a private
dressing room.

Lagoon 400
The greatest attractions of catamarans are the plentiful sunbathing
areas, large alfresco cockpits and bathing platforms at the stern of each
hull.
 Trimarans
Trimarans offer a better performance than a catamaran, mainly because their
form stability allows them to be pushed harder than a cat, without fear of
capsize. On the minus side, they have less interior volume, and since they
draw very little draft as well, living space within the main hull is invariably
smaller to monohulls of equivalent length.

But if performance is a prerequisite, then there is nothing to beat modern

trimarans, and designers have even beaten the problems of their extreme
beam and the extra mooring fees this incurs at most marinas, by developing
folding outriggers that allow boats of 30ft+ length to be towed on a trailer.

This folding concept has been developed successfully by companies in

America, Denmark and New Zealand. Corsair, (now built in Vietnam) and
Farrier Marine in New Zealand, share the same vertical tilting wing
mechanism that fold the outriggers in on their side. On the Danish built
Dragonfly trimarans, the beams are hinged in a horizontal plane and fold in
towards the hull in the same attitude as when extended for sailing.

These trimarans share light displacement (2.69 tonnes in sailing trim for the
24ft Corsair 750) and shallow draft of less than 1ft (0.3m) for even the 38ft
Dragonfly 1200 Ocean Cruiser. They also offer a remarkable performance,
able to make 10knots upwind in little more than 12knots of breeze, and a
scintillating 20knots+ when sailing off the wind.
Sprint 750
F-32
Dragonfly 1200
 Motor sailers
These are at the traditional end of the market, and as their name implies, are
half motor, half sailboat. These designs, whose genre can be traced back to
early Danish trawler yachts, trade on their study, sea kindly, long keeled hull
shape, a powerful engine, well protected deck and aft cockpit, and enclosed
wheelhouse. They look safe, they feel safe and they are safe. Motor sailers
are at the heavier end of the displacement scale and none will win races, but
given a soldier’s breeze - force 3-5 - they perform well enough under sail. In
lesser winds, or indeed stronger conditions, their powerful engines come into
play, and with the mizzen set as a steadying sail, their enclosed environment
make them go-anywhere boats.
The most popular are the Fisher range from 30-46ft (9.1-14m) now built in
the UK by Northshore Yachts, and the Finnish built Nauticat whose models
range from 34-44ft (10.3-13.4m). There are also a large number of self-built
models on the secondhand market, some constructed in steel, and others
from bare mouldings produced by Colvic Craft for home completion.
The Fisher 37 and Fisher 33 motorsailers.

Fisher 37
First introduced in 1973, the Fisher 37 is the epitome of a reliable,
safe, and sturdy motorsailer. Accommodation is split between a social
wheelhouse, main saloon, and double cabins fore and aft.
Nauticat 441
The Nauticat 441 is another popular 6 berth motorsailer, with a large
centre wheelhouse which doubles as a large deck saloon, together with
an open bridge deck aft.
3 Extended cruising
Sell up and sail: Increasing numbers of us are doing just that, setting out to
sail the seven seas for a year or two while we still have it in us. But what
type of yacht to select?
She needs to be seaworthy, well built and well found. You may well plan to
spend many months simply hopping from one harbour to another, but the
boat still has to be good enough to sail long distance in the first place.
As far as production yachts go, the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC), an
annual 2,700-mile winter migration by 200+ crews from Las Palmas in the
Canaries to St Lucia in the Caribbean, gives a good indication on what to
look for. The event is open to cruising yachts between 27-85ft (8.2-25.9m)
and cruising catamarans from 27-60ft (8.2-18.3m). Over the last 25 years,
the average length of yacht has risen from 39ft-46ft (11.9m-14m).
Since 1986, Beneteau has been the most popular choice of builder with
almost 350 entries, followed by Nautor Swan, Oyster, Hallberg-Rassy,
Jeanneau and Bavaria. The most popular design has been the Oyster 56 with
more than 40 taking part. There has also been increasing interest in
multihulls. Back in 1986, the Prout Snowgoose 37 catamaran was the most
popular. Now it is the French-built Lagoon 400 catamaran. These have all
proved to be seaworthy, well found yachts and provide a good benchmark
to start your search for the boat that will best suit your needs.
 What are the key elements?
Design
The old adage ‘If she looks right, she invariably will be’ is a good starting
point. Fair lines, good freeboard and a well protected cockpit are all key
requirements for a safe seaworthy hull. As far as the rig is concerned,
modern roller furling headsails, and slab, in-boom or mast reefing system
for the main with all the control lines led back to the cockpit, lessens the
need for crew to work out on the open deck.

Down below, you should be looking for plenty of handholds throughout the
yacht, good safe sea berths, easy access to the engine room, and plenty of
dry stowage space. Popular designs like the Oyster, Hallberg-Rassy and
Beneteau hold their resale values much better than orphan designs with a
lack of parentage.
Size: Minimum, 36ft (11m)
Optimum, 1ft (0.3m) for every year of your age!

Design
1. Good sea-kindly hull capable of taking care of you when the
weather turns bad and you are hunkered down below.
2. Good drainage along the toe rail or scuppers and in the cockpit.
Drain holes need to be big enough to quickly clear green water
over the deck and heavy rainstorms.

On Deck
 1. Dual bow anchors, one with at least 300ft (100.1m) chain plus a
lighter kedge anchor stowed in the stern ready to deploy to
control the boat from swinging in windy anchorages. Include a
sea anchor for use in extreme conditions.
2. Strong thru-bolted deck cleats and fittings.
3. Sheltered cockpit with strong thru-bolted pad eyes to connect
jackstays that allow crew to reach out and clip on before
exiting the companionway.
4. Companionway spray hood and dodgers on lifelines to protect
the cockpit against spray.
5. Jackstays running the entire length of the deck, together with
strong handholds on cabin roof.
6. Keel-stepped alloy mast - minimal maintenance and better
reinforced than a deck-stepped spar.
7. Roller headsails - easy to reef from the cockpit.
8. In-mast or in-boom furling mainsail, or slab reefing system
controlled from the cockpit.
9. Hanked staysail. Good back up should furling gear jam.
10. Storm jib and storm trysail. Essential items you hope not to
use.
11. Autopilot to relieve the crew during heavy weather, when
motor-sailing and when conditions are settled.
12. Drop-down boarding/swim ladder.
13. Dinghy with reliable outboard.
14. Powerful waterproof torch with plentiful supply of spare
batteries.

Mechanicals
1. Powerful inboard diesel - minimum 3hp per ton of displacement
- enough to motor-sail against strong winds and to get you out
of tricky situations. Consider fitting twin alternators to charge
batteries.
2. Good battery power and monitoring system with separate
battery to start the engine. Consider a wind vane and/or solar
panels to trickle charge batteries.
3. Large fuel tank to give a minimum of 500 nautical mile range
under power.
4. Large water tanks. Enough to give each crew member 1 litre
per day in case there is no rain, and water maker fails.
5. Bilge pumps. At least two, one of which should be manual. Two
buckets with lanyards.

Below Decks
1. Good handholds throughout - enough to be able to move hand-
to-hand within the cabins.
2. Good ventilation. Power at sea is a precious resource. Natural
airflow through the hull is every bit as good as air
conditioning.
3. Plenty of well ventilated storage. Space for books, food for a
month, spares and all the safety gear.
4. Good length quarter berths with lee cloths. These are the most
comfortable in heavy weather. Double berths are only good for
use in harbour and hood weather.
5. Refrigeration. A fridge is essential to keep perishables cool. A
freezer is too, but is dependent on much greater power
requirements.
6. Large gimballed gas stove/oven with fiddles.
7. Good inventory plan showing where everything is stored.
8. Maintenance log. Maintain service record on engine, electrics,
plumbing and rig.

Navigation
1. Electronic instruments: Wind, speed and depth sounder are
essential.
2. Charts, chart plotter and pilots for cruising region.
3. Global Position System (GPS) with hand held back-up for
emergency.
4. Radios: VHF and Single Side Band, essential. Consider a
satellite phone and/or ham radio for communication to the
wider world.
5. Radar: Good for approaching unknown harbours and
navigating in shipping lanes, close to shore at night and in fog.
Consider AIS option to identify other vessels.
4 To buy, share or charter?
We take great pride in owning our own yacht, but is it cost-effective?
If usage is going to be limited, divide the annual cost by the number of times
you are likely to use her. Here are the alternatives.

Case studies

Shared ownership
Some years ago, I gave a talk at the Stafford Coastal Cruising Club, which
shares a clubhouse with canal boating enthusiasts, slap in the middle of
Britain. There, I met Commodore Paul Harrison, who introduced me to the
novel idea of sharing ownership of a yacht with two other families.

Two or more families

‘We live almost equidistant from the Welsh and East coasts and with
direct motorway access to both the English south coast and Scottish
west coast, we are ideally placed to cruise anywhere in Britain.’ Each
Christmas the three families would meet up for lunch and plan their
cruising itinerary for the following season. ‘One year it was the
Scottish islands, another, the south west. We have even based the yacht
in Brittany for a season,’ he explained.
Each family plan to use the yacht every third week or weekend of the
season. When it was their turn, the Harrisons would drive to wherever
the yacht was and hand the keys to the departing family to drive their
car back to Stafford. When their week was up, they in turn would
return home in the car driven up by the succeeding group. ‘The system
relies on each family having two cars but works very well. It gives us
the opportunity to explore new cruising grounds over an extensive
area,’ Harrison explained.
When they decided to sail around the Brittany coast, the three families
shared the yacht delivery from Wales in the same relay method, but
once the boat was in French waters, one family elected to keep their
second car on the French side as transport to and from the yacht. Each
group then returned home in the car driven down to the English ferry
terminal by the family taking over from them.

Try before you buy

Many charter companies like Sunsail operate a fleet of cruising
catamarans for bare boat and crewed charters in most popular areas in
the world.
‘By sharing costs and time three ways, we do not become slaves to the
boat. Knowing that we have use of it one week in three means we can
slot in other interests and never get bored sailing in the same cruising
area all the time. Sharing the maintenance costs also helps because,
between us all, we can pay to have a lot of the work done
professionally.’

Shared within the family

Famed yacht designer and stylist Andrew Winch and his family live in
London during the week and escape to a cottage in Bosham on
England’s south coast at weekends. There, they share a Southerly 110
swing keel cruising yacht with Andrew’s brother-in-law, a local doctor.
‘The arrangement works very well. I have to travel a lot and just don’t
have the time to justify owning a yacht on my own,’ says Andrew.
Instead, the two families have use of the yacht on alternate weekends
and share all the costs between them.
But what happens if there is a family or friendship split? Even the best
of friends can fall out, so it makes sense to either draw up a simple
contract or letter of understanding, setting out exactly what must
happen if one party wants to sell their share. This is essential if the
boat is subject to a joint loan or mortgage. The most equitable way is
to call in a marine surveyor to give a market value of the boat. Then
the other parties either buy them out or the boat is sold and the
proceeds split after all outstanding costs have been met.
 Family ownership has the advantage of offering a friendly way to
share the cost of owning a yacht - and an army of helpers when it
comes to rolling up sleeves to maintain her.

Time-share
Yacht partnership programmes operated by big charter companies like
Sunsail and The Moorings provide the opportunity to purchase a new yacht
at a discount and include her in their charter fleet. You then have use of her,
or any other of their yachts, for a period each year. This allows you to
choose a different cruising area each time, taking in popular cruising
grounds like the Caribbean, Great Barrier Reef, Bay of Islands or Phuket in
the Northern winter, and Mediterranean, Aegean and UK in the summer. At
the end of the contract, the yacht is sold and you get most of your investment
back.
Through Sunsail’s Guaranteed Income option, owners pay the full purchase
price of the yacht and place it into the Sunsail charter fleet. You then receive
a fixed monthly income to cover the loan repayments. At the end of the
programme, the owner is free to take over any further payments owed on the
yacht, sell her, or trade-in towards the purchase of a new Sunsail yacht.

Charter
This cuts out all concerns about tying up your capital, and being restricted to
set periods for using your yacht. You can charter for a weekend, week or
three and everything can be taken care of, including the victualling. You can
even have an experienced skipper onboard to take responsibility for the
navigation and running the yacht.
 Bare boat and flotilla charter holidays provide a cost effective and
hassle-free way to enjoy some intensive sailing for a few weeks each
year.

Another option is to pay 65% of the purchase price, which can offer certain
tax advantages. You don’t receive an income return and this scheme is only
available with yachts operating in Greece, Croatia or Thailand. The title
deeds sit with the charter operator until the end of the contract when they are
then signed over to the owner. These yacht partnership programmes are
operated by big charter companies like Sunsail and The Moorings.

In addition, you receive the following benefits:

1. 4-6 weeks free use of the yacht each year
 2. Use of a sister ship at other charter bases worldwide
3. Use of a larger yacht at a preferential rate

Business partners
Business partners Rob Thompson and Eileen Skinner share a Sunsail
32 - a Jeanneau 32i Sun Odyssey. They have used the scheme to cruise
the Greek Islands in their own yacht and had use of another in the
British Virgin Islands. ‘The scheme works very well because neither of
us have a lot of time to go sailing. At the end of each cruise, we simply
walk away without having to pay for mooring fees or maintenance
costs. Sunsail operate a very comprehensive maintenance and repair
service at each of their bases and our boat is well looked after. At the
end of the contract, the Company guarantee to put right anything that is
not fair wear and tear.’
He also points out that if you are happy to use the yacht out of season
you can extend the use of your yacht. ‘Your ‘free use’ works on a
points system weighted to the height of the season. If you are prepared
to use her out of season, you can extend the period of use
considerably.’
 Charter options
If time for sailing is limited to very few weeks during the year, then
chartering is often the best option. Not only can you have the pick of the best
cruising grounds around the world, but this takes away all the headaches of
boat ownership. You then have the choice of chartering a bare boat or having
a skipper onboard to take charge of navigation and berthing at ports of call.
Charter options
One to take advantage of this option is Steve Johnson and his family,
also members of the far-reaching Stafford Coastal Cruising Club. ‘We
have been chartering yachts for the past 30 years usually to coincide
with the Club’s annual Spring cruise. We enjoy sailing in company,
and on our last cruise, we chartered a Beneteau 321 from Britannia
Sailing to explore the UK East Coast in company with five other
families. By sharing the cost between the crew, each berth came to
£200, including food, which is very reasonable.’
5 What can I afford?
The cost of a boat involves much more than just the price tag or mortgage.

To get a complete picture of how big that hole in the water will be, use this
work sheet to bring other costs in to focus.
 New versus second-hand
Most yachts have an extraordinary long life. Many of the first fibreglass
moulded designs, produced from the mid-1960s and onwards, are still going
strong and commanding good prices. If you want to buy new, that is fine,
but the same amount of money could buy you a bigger second-hand yacht.
But remember, the running costs will be bigger too.

New yachts
Payment
If you are buying new from stock, then the purchase should be just as
straightforward as buying a car. You organise the finance, pay the invoice,
and the boat is yours. It only gets complex when ordering a new yacht to be
built. This can take anything up to a year to complete and will involve a
series of stage payments. It is essential to safeguard these payments against
the possibility of the builder or their agent going bust.

Treat your boat purchase as if it were a property. Many yachts cost as much
as a house anyway, so give serious consideration to having a lawyer
represent your interests. There are just too many sorry tales of customers
losing their money during the 2009-11 recession, not to act cautiously. The
builder or their agent will undoubtedly offer you a ‘standard’ contract of
purchase.

The important points to include in a contract are:

1. The price should be fixed and include any non-standard items
2. Contain a full specification or inventory
3. Delivery: The date should be fixed and if the launch date is
important, have a penalty clause inserted to compensate for
loss of use if this is delayed
4. Completion should be subject to sea trials
5. Warranties: Insist on having the extent of warranties and ‘free’
after sales service specified
 Safeguarding stage payments
Money held by a solicitor in a ‘client account’ is ring-fenced by the terms
and conditions of the licence they operate under, but too often, a ‘client
account’ is all too easy to dip into when cash flow runs short. Letters of
credit are also only as watertight as the terms and conditions written into
them.

The initial deposit. Is this returnable in the event of cancellation, or is it part

of the payment plan? The simplest way to secure this is to spread the
payments across a number of credit cards. Then, in the event of the agent or
builder going out of business, you can make a claim against the card
companies.

The purpose of stage payments is to fund the cost of equipment and

materials during the construction process. One way to secure these
payments is to stipulate within the contract exactly what those assets are:
the mouldings, engine, spars, sails, electronics and furnishings etc, then
ensure that moulding and part numbers are listed as addendums to the
contract. Under UK Law, this then gives you clear title of ownership over
the items listed.

Visit the yard as often as possible to photograph progress and ensure your
name and hull number are indelibly marked on each item. This way you
have proof of what you have title to. Then, should the company go into
receivership, you do at least own the unfinished hull and accessories, and
the only headache is having it completed.

Elsewhere within the European Union and in many other parts of the world,
however, this ‘clear title of ownership’ is far from clear. Then the only safe
way to secure stage payments is to take out insurance against the loss. This
will add 1-2% to the cost of the yacht, and in some cases, the builder may
be prepared to share half this cost. It is a good point for negotiation.
 Insurance
Check that the builder’s insurance adequately covers the yacht during
construction (especially if you have title to the hull). If not, then you need
to arrange your own insurance.

Certification
All new yachts must be built to comply with European Directives and be
CE compliant, and come with EU technical data books. If a yacht is to be
used for charter it must comply with the relevant Code of Practice for
commercial use. Ensure that these items are covered in the contract.

Value added tax (VAT)

If you are a EC resident intending to use the yacht in EU waters, then VAT
must be paid. The same applies if you are importing the boat from outside
the EU. Ensure that the bill of sale lists the VAT element. You will need to
show this whenever you sail to another country and when you sell the boat.

Small Ship Registration (SSR)

If finance is being obtained, most lenders will insist upon Part I registration
of the yacht in order for the loan company to register their interest. This
also provides proof of ownership (as of date of registration) and will assist
the process when selling. A new yacht will have to have a tonnage survey,
so this needs to be organised with the builder prior to hand-over so that
registration can take effect on delivery.
Part III SSR is more informal and has no legal standing, but the certificate
is sufficient to show proof of title when sailing abroad.

Second-hand
First rule: Buy quality, not quantity. With yachts that require a lot of
restoration, don’t underestimate the cost. It is often cheaper to buy a new
yacht than buy new parts.

Agreement
In many countries, a verbal agreement between two parties constitutes a
binding contract, but without documentation, any problems that follow can
be fraught with difficulties. A friend bought an amateur-built boat from the
builder’s widow after her husband had died, thinking that the quick cash
deal would save him money and her a lot of anguish. Then came the
problem of proving VAT had been paid. Undoubtedly it had been, but
without paperwork there was no proof, and the purchaser had to pay it
again, in order to resell the yacht.

Then there is the second problem of proving ownership. Does the seller
actually have title to the yacht? One scam I came across in the world of
classic yachts is multiple selling. Two people thought that they had bought
the boat and both had already paid a deposit on the laid up yacht. It just
happened that both also shared the same hairdresser, and being an inveterate
gossip, he told the second ‘purchaser’ that a previous customer had just
bought this ‘classic boat’. That set alarm bells ringing, and sure enough the
seller was trying to double his money and run. The second purchaser never
did get his deposit back.

It is sensible to use one of the standard purchase forms available from

national sailing authorities like the Royal Yachting Association (RYA).
Where the cost of the vessel is substantial, then engage a marine lawyer to
ensure that the transaction proceeds without a hitch.

Whether purchasing from the owner or a yacht broker (who like an estate
agent acts for the seller), consider the following:

The most important things to consider are:

1. The condition of the yacht
2. Has VAT has been paid?
3. Does the seller actually have the right to sell the boat?
4. Is the yacht subject to a mortgage?

Unless you are buying a small value trailer/sailer and are satisfied by its
visual condition, it is prudent to make any agreement ‘subject to survey’.
Then, even if a deposit has been paid, any problems picked up by the
surveyor not disclosed by the seller, allows you to re-negotiate the price, or
terminate the contract and demand your deposit back. It is also important to
ensure that your surveyor has professional insurance just in case they miss
something that materialises after the yacht has been bought. Don’t rely on a
survey provided by the seller.
Ensure that the seller produces evidence of VAT payment on the yacht
before parting with your deposit. The same applies to proof of ownership. If
the yacht is registered, then this will name the ultimate owner, but also look
for receipts that name the seller.

Title documentation should include:

1. Part 1 registration
2. Builder’s Certificate
3. Previous bills of sale
4. Evidence of Recreational Craft Directive (RCD) compliance
5. Evidence of VAT status (if within the EC)
Check to see if the yacht is subject to a mortgage just as you would with the
title documents for a property. If the boat is subject to a marine mortgage or
a loan, this should be listed on the vessel’s registration documents and
recorded in the Small Ships’ Register. Unfortunately, not all loans are
recorded this way, and you may still get a visit from a finance company
with the right to take the boat you have just bought, to recover the unpaid
loan. A good contract may not prevent this occurring but it does give you
the right of action against the seller. If there is a loan, ensure that this is
discharged before completion.

RCD compliance
The Recreational Craft Directive (RCD) is a piece of EU legislation that
applies to all recreational craft between 8.2ft (2.5m) and 78.7ft (24m)
brought into or offered for sale within the EU. Boats must comply with
specific ISO standards, although equivalent standards can apply. Evidence
of compliance can be found on the yacht’s HIN/CIN (Hull/Craft
identification number) on the builder’s plaque. This is a 14-digit number
containing the manufacturer’s code, year of build and model year. There
should also be a paper document, often found in the back of the owner’s
manual. The builder’s invoice and/or certificate may also list the HIN. The
CE mark should also be displayed on the plaque.

There are a few exemptions from the RCD. Boats that can show they were
in the EU before 16th June 1998 when this legislation came into force, are
exempt, as are boats that have been built solely for racing, gondolas and
commercial vessels such as fishing and workboats. Yachts used for charter
are not included in this category.

Reading a CE Manufacturers plate

Part-finished yachts and those built from scratch by a home builder are also
exempt from RCD certification, provided the builder retains ownership of
the vessel for at least five years from the date that the vessel was first put
into commission. Professionally built hulls supplied for fit-out will have an
Annex 3 Declaration, which is the builder’s certification that the hull has
been built in accordance with the RCD.

Buying abroad
Boats being brought into use within the EU for the first time must comply
with the RCD. On arrival, privately imported boats will be assessed for
compliance. Some US boats are built to the RCD and have the required
documentation, but check before you buy. If the engine does not meet EU
requirements, for instance, this will need to be replaced, so it may not be
economic to import the boat. Surveyors are best placed to give professional
guidance. VAT will be payable on import.

Boats built in the EU since 1998 will have documentation that they
complied with the RCD when first offered for sale, but yachts built within
the European Union prior to this date remain exempt unless they have been
sold outside the EU and then re-imported. If any of the paperwork is
missing then the authorities could well impound the boat the moment you
try to move her.

The most common problems stem from outstanding claims for unpaid bills,
and vessels that have overstayed their temporary import permit. One
solution is to pay a local broker to check all this out. Another is to offer to
pay for a crew to deliver the yacht to another port and complete the deal
there. Then it is up to the owner to ensure that the paperwork is up to
scratch.

Finance
The cheapest method is to pay for it out of savings, but then not too many
of us have the luxury of a mega bank balance. What are the alternatives?

Marine mortgage
A marine mortgage is registered in accordance with the UK Merchant
Shipping Act 1993 and secured on the new or second-hand boat that it is
financing, in a similar way that a house secures a property loan. Banks will
normally lend up to 80% of the value of the boat over a period of 10 to 15
years. They also offer fixed or variable interest rate options and allow
owners to make full or partial early repayments without penalty. Marine
mortgages usually start at £100,000.

Secured or unsecured bank loan

This is the simplest way to finance the purchase of a boat valued at less than
£100,000. Rates will be cheaper if the amount can be secured against
property or other investments. These are often limited to a 5 year term.
 Credit card
The quickest but most expensive way to pay, but OK if you plan to pay off
the balance within the interest-free period. If you are not taking possession
of the boat immediately, this is also the simplest way to insure against
default or failure to deliver which will be covered by the card insurance
policy.

Other ways to raise finance

If you have substantial equity in a property, borrow against this. It is likely
to be the cheapest form of finance.

Treat the boat as a business asset

To do this, the boat must realise an income from charter, entertaining or as a
training boat. You may be taxed for personal use of the boat as a benefit in
kind.

Sponsorship
If the boat has a high profile or is used for racing, you may be able to attract
commercial sponsorship and receive payment for hospitality and branding
on hull and sails.

US tax breaks
In the US, you may be able to claim interest payments back when filing
your Federal income tax return, if the boat is equipped with a head and
galley, because the asset can be treated for tax purposes as a second home.
Don’t forget to save your fuel receipts each time you top up the tanks. A
portion of the excise tax on fuel is used by the Government to maintain
roads, which some owners reclaim. Check the IRS website for latest details:
www.irs.gov.
6 Surveys: the key elements
If the yacht of your choice is costing a substantial amount then, just like a
house purchase, a professional should survey it. If you are buying her
second-hand, and borrowing money to purchase her, then the lender may
insist on it. The Insurance company may also want sight of the report before
confirming the quotation.

TIP
Ensure that the surveyor is qualified to survey the construction type
of the vessel, and carries third party indemnity insurance.

Key points about a survey

The surveyor should be qualified to inspect the construction type of your
yacht. Not all are. Check if they are members of the International Institute
of Marine Surveying (IIMS). This is an independent, non-political
organisation that lists specialist surveyors and marine consultants in every
corner of the globe. Their website, www.iims.org.uk, offers a search facility
to locate a surveyor close to you who will abide to a clear code of practice.

A condition survey provides a professional opinion on the structural

condition of visible aspects of the yacht only, and the report should not be
considered as a schedule of works, though it will certainly assist those
preparing an estimate for repair or refurbishment. Hull condition is assessed
using non-destructive methods of examination such as ultrasound and
moisture meters, and the report is limited to the sample areas where the
substrate paint is scraped away.

The surveyor will note whether the hull has undergone osmosis treatment,
but not disturb the epoxy resin coating that has been applied. The readings
from the ultrasound and damp meters, coupled with the practical test of
tapping suspect areas of the hull, will give an indication to the surveyor
whether further exploratory work is required to check for damp,
delamination, and voids.
Likewise, the engine and machinery are given a visual inspection only, and
the surveyor will limit his report to signs of corrosion, oil and water leaks.
The content of tanks are not tested for contaminants unless you specifically
ask for this to be done. Water and biological contamination in the fuel tank
can be a particular problem.

Hull fastenings keel bolts and bolts securing thru-hull fittings etc - are not
drawn out for inspection unless you ask for this to be done. The same
applies to the testing of doors, hatches and windows for water tightness.

The report will reflect the experience of the surveyor at looking at similar
craft and construction methods. He will know instinctively where damp is
likely to lie, where rot or corrosion could be prevalent and where problems
are likely to arise in the future. His report will be thorough, have an action
plan, and a valuation based not on its replacement cost, but the retail values
achieved by yachts of a similar type and condition.
 A professional surveyor will not only highlight any structural
concerns, and provide a list of items that need attention, but his report
will give you peace of mind that problems will not appear later.

If you decide against having a professional survey, here is a checklist

to work through.

Hull Checklist
1. Look at the transom and check the hull identification number.
Does it match the number on the registration document?
 2. GRP boats: Take a small rubber hammer or the handle end of a
screwdriver, and tap the hull lightly at short intervals across the
whole area of the hull. If there is a sudden change of note, this can
indicate osmosis, voids or delamination.

3. Wooden boats: Check for black discolouration at joints and

plank ends. This is a clear sign of the first stage of rot. Use a sharp
bradawl to test suspect areas like the garboard strakes for softness
- another sign of rot.

4. Does the keel run true to the centreline? If not, then the yacht
will perform better on one tack than the other.

5. Mismatched paint. This could indicate that the yacht has been
damaged in the past. If you were not informed of any repairs, what
else have you not have been told about?

6. Does the propeller shaft turn true?

7. Take hold of the prop and check for shaft movement. If there is,
this suggests a worn cutlass bearing.

8. Does the propeller have any nicks on the leading edges of the
blades? These will lessen its performance.

9. Do any of the bronze fittings show signs of pinkness or pitting?

This is a sign that the boat has suffered from electrolytic action
between dissimilar metals (bronze and stainless steel for instance).
10. Check the sacrificial anodes close to the prop shaft and rudder
for signs of pitting. Do they need to be replaced?

Damp meter readings at regular points around the hull provide the
best indication of the porosity of the gel coat or paint system.
Non-invasive testing. The surveyor will scrape away small sections of
paintwork at regular intervals around the hull to check for any
breakdown in the gel coat. This yacht had already undergone
extensive osmosis treatment, but pin holes through the epoxy coating
were clearly visible.
Rudder bearings, especially those where bronze castings connect to a
stainless steel rudder stock, can be badly affected by electrolysis.
Often, the only way to check is to scrape away the paintwork.
The bow-thruster impeller can suffer wear, and if the gap between the
blade tips and tunnel is large, then its performance will be
considerably reduced. Check also that the bearings are not worn or
loose.
 The same applies to the P-bracket and propeller. If there is any sign of
‘pinkness’ within the bronze fittings -and this will be most prevalent
on the tips of the propeller blades - then electrolytic action has
occurred and the metal will be severely weakened.

The deck takes a good deal of wear and tear and provides a good
indication of the yacht’s overall condition.

Deck Checklist
1. Walk around the decks checking for soft spots and investigate.
 2. Check that the pushpit, pulpit, toe rail and deck fittings are
secure and without the telltale signs of rust or rot around their
base.

3. Check the stanchions for excessive movement. This could

indicate a collision in the past.

4. Check the shroud plates are secure and not leaking. They may
need to be re-bedded.

5. Check for telltale signs of cracking around chain plates and other
highly stressed fittings.

6. Wooden boats: Check for rot wherever fresh water can lie - the
cockpit corners, the hatch area, and scuppers etc.

7. Teak decking: Is the planking badly pitted around the grain. This
indicates that it has been pressure washed.

8. Is the caulking sound or are there cracks along the edge of some
planks that let in water?

9. Have dowel holes lost their cappings? Teak decks are very
expensive to replace.

10. Check around hatches and windows. Are there water stains
inside? If so, these will need to be re-bedded.

11. Winches: do they turn easily? Do the ratchet pawls stick? These
may need to be serviced.

Gas installation. Check for perished tubing and leaky connections. EU

regulations insist that gas lockers must drain outboard of the hull.
Teak decks look wonderful when new, but require considerable care
and attention. Check that the caulking is sound and screw dowels are
not starting to lift. A power washer does the greatest damage to the
deck, and the tell-tale sign is bad pitting between lines of grain.
Winches should be checked for corrosion and wear. Are all the pawls
in place and do they spring out satisfactorily?
 Hatch rubbers perish after time and then let water in. A visual
inspection will show up any problems, but it is good to aim a hose
pipe over them and the cabin windows, and check for any water
ingress.

The rig requires a thorough check because potential failings are not
always easy to spot.

Rig Checklist
1. Check halyards and sheets for sign of chafe.
2. Check rigging and swages for signs of damage, bending and
broken strands. If any of the 1/19 wire within the shrouds are
broken, all standing rigging should be condemned unless there is
recent proof of purchase of any replacements.

3. Check blocks for wear.

4. Are there any signs of corrosion on the alloy mast and booms?

5. Are the fittings secure?

6. Does the furling gear and reefing systems work easily?

7. Check the rubber collar waterproofing the joint between mast

and deck. Is it waterproof?

8. Sails: Do they show signs of chafe? Check the spreader/corner

patches as well as batten pockets for loose stitching. Plan to have
them washed and serviced.
The rig must be checked thoroughly. Insurance companies will often
insist that standing rigging more than 10 years old should be replaced
as a matter of course.
All mast fittings must be checked for wear, especially highly stressed
areas like the boom gooseneck and spinnaker pole connectors. Check
also for any signs of corrosion on the spars which may be caused
through electrolytic action between dissimilar metals.
The rubber gaiter waterproofing where the mast goes through the deck
can also perish over time. Check for tell-tale splits in the rubber.

Sails need to be checked for signs of wear and tear. The main
headboard and sliders take a lot of punishment, but you should also
check for signs of fraying around batten pockets and the corners of
each sail.
Engines require regular maintenance to remain reliable. The state of
the engine room and ancillary fittings provide a good indicator.

Engineering Checklist
1. Does the engine have good water flow through it?

2. Check belts and hoses for cracks or wear. Rubber deteriorates

quite quickly in a salty environment.

3. Check the oil in engine and transmission and rub a drop between
your fingers. Can you feel any grit?

4. What is the colour? If it is grey or cream a water leak could have

emulsified the oil.
5. How does it smell: burned? That is a sign of overheating. If in
doubt, send a sample to a laboratory for testing.

6. Does the transmission shift easily or does it clunk?

7. Check for debris in the water strainers and pumps.

8. Test the seacocks to make sure they open and close.

9. Is the steering free and easy?

10. Check the electronic instruments, batteries and electrics, testing

lights and pumps in turn.

11. Outboard motors:

i. Does it start easily?
ii. Look for excessive corrosion under the cover and around the
prop.
iii. Check that the tilt mechanism works properly.
Check all sink fittings in turn for tell-tale signs of weeping that they
operate correctly.
Batteries are expensive to replace. All yachts should have two
batteries - one for ship’s electrics, and one for starting the engine. Test
the batteries for capacity and charge retention.
Check the oil in both the engine and gearbox. Any opaqueness or
milkiness is a sure sign that there is a water leak somewhere. Does the
oil smell ‘burnt’? Rub some between your finger tips to check if the
oil is carrying any deposits.
Look for signs of rust and weeping water around the engine. If you
can’t get a clear view, try to point a digital camera at the area and
inspect the photographs for signs of corrosion and leaks.
Pull out the electrics panel and look for signs of wiring repairs. Check
wiring runs beneath the floor and look for corrosion and any sign of
‘blackness’ at wiring ends. This will suggest that the wiring has been
immersed at some point in the past.
 If only all engines had this much access around them. This installation
aboard a Hallberg-Rassy yacht simplifies inspection and servicing
considerably.

The insides of a yacht will provide clues to past history, repairs and
potential problems.

Inside Checklist
1. Is there a musty smell? This could indicate a leakage, water
damage or general neglect.
2. Check the bilges for signs of damage or repair.

3. Wooden boats: Check each frame for cracking. These will need
doublers to strengthen them.

4. Are there any waterlines inside the boat? Look for rust lines
around the hull sides and engine. These indicate that the boat took
on water or has been flooded in the past. Another give-away will
be any wiring run below these waterlines. Disconnect their
connections and check to see if the copper wiring has gone black.

5. Floors and bearers: Any sign of rot?

6. Are the handrails secure?

7. Is the upholstery in good shape?

General Checklist
1. Check maintenance records for evidence of regular servicing.
Look for recurring problems.

2. Contact previous owner(s) and ask about the boat.

3. Check the brokerage columns online and in magazines to

determine value range for model and year.
What state are the cushions in? Is there a smell of mustiness below?
What state is the finish on the floors, treads and furnishings? These
checks will give a good indication on whether the yacht has been well
looked after.
Pull the floorboards up and check for water in the bilge or waterlines
that might suggest that the boat has been flooded in the past. Are the
wooden bearers sound? Is anything loose in the bilge?
Hand rails take a severe amount of abuse in rough weather as the crew
swing from one to another. Are they secure or is there movement
when you try to waggle them? On older boats, these often need
attention.
Look in all the nooks and crannies for signs of repair to the hull and
water seepage. If you find an obvious repair and the owner has not
mentioned it, what else may not have been disclosed?
However unsavoury, don rubber gloves and check out all the pipes,
pumps and stopcocks connecting the toilet, sink and shower stall. If
problems are hidden, this is where you are most likely to find them.
The galley invariably gets the most wear and tear. Check that the gas
connections to the cooker and fridge are safe, the water pumps work
satisfactorily and that water drains freely from the sink.
7 The trial sail
New boats
Once you have drawn up a shortlist of yachts, book a trial sail on each and
take detailed notes of what you like and dislike about each yacht. Taking
pictures of salient features will also act as an aide-memoire.

Under power
Try her under power. How does she steer when going astern? Modern
designs are expected to steer just as precisely going astern as they do in
forward gear. Once in open water, see how manoeuvrable she is going
forward. Will she turn in her own length? Do this clockwise and
anticlockwise: she is likely to turn tighter one way or the other depending
on the action of the propeller. Boats with twin rudders, and those fitted with
a saildrive well forward of the rudder, tend to be slower to respond until
either the wash from the prop, or water flow across the blades, gives the
rudders something to ‘bite’ on.

Under sail
Try her under mainsail first to see how well she will tack, what speed she
can attain on a reach and how much weather helm she exerts. This will give
you a good idea, not just on performance, but how much work the headsail
does in balancing the boat.

Then set the headsail and test how close-winded she is on both tacks. If
possible, do this in slack water and take bearings on each tack. If she sails
higher on one tack than the other, either rig tension or sheeting angle is not
the same on each side, or the keel geometry is out of kilter. You can check
the rig by siting up the mast and seeing if the section bends over more on
one side than the other, and seeing if the jib fairlead positions are
equidistant.
How easy is she to reef? Are all the lines to hand, and are there
enough winches?
How easy is it to walk around the deck? Are there plenty of
handholds?
If she is fitted with sailing instruments, are they easy to read from
the helm position and is the Man Overboard button within
reach?

Below decks

These are the questions to ask yourself:

1. Do you like the layout?
2. Are the berths comfortable?
3. Is the galley workable?
4. How practical is the nav station? Is it equipped with repeating
sailing instruments?
5. Are there plenty of handholds throughout the boat?
6. Is there plenty of storage space?
7. How easy is it to access the engine compartment? Are the
engine belts and fuel, oil and water filters all within easy
reach?

Taking delivery
Commissioning a new yacht requires a detailed inspection of the boat,
rig, engineering and electronics to ensure that everything is just as you
ordered - and working satisfactorily. If you lack experience, then call
in a knowledgeable friend or surveyor to go through the boat with
you. It could save you a lot of hassle and lost sailing time later while
warrently work is completed.

Sea trial
A trial sail is imperative to check that everything works satisfactorily,
to check the inventory against your order and ensure that you get a
full tour of the yacht. This should take in everything from sails to
seacocks. Only when everything on your order sheet is ticked off
should you hand over the final payment and sign the acceptance
papers.
The builder or agent will then present you with a builder’s certificate,
VAT receipt, an RCD compliance certificate, registration and warranty
documents, and all the operating and service manuals for the yacht
and its equipment.

Used boats
 Testing a used yacht is very similar to trialling a new vessel except
that you are also looking for potential problems and wear and tear.
Start by checking the engine exhaust. A lot of black smoke emitted at
start up is a sure sign that fuel is not being burnt and indicate at best
that, the engine needs a service, or worst, blocked injectors or worn
piston rings. And while you are looking, is there a good flow of
cooling water coming out, or is it down to a trickle? The latter
indicates a blockage, worn water pump or impeller.
Go through the survey engineering check list on page 96.

Under sail
Check for chafe on halyards, batten pockets and leech of headsails,
especially where they may rub against the spreaders and running
backstays. How well do the sails set? The tell-tale sign of badly
stretched sail is a loose leech or baggy luff.
Go through the rig checklist on page 92.

Inside
This is where wear and tear really shows. What are the state of the
cushions and companionway floors? If the interior has a ‘tired’ look
about it, factor in the cost of having new cushions and headliners, and
giving paint and varnish work a facelift.

Go through the inside and general checklists on page 100.

Consider any survey report that the owner might offer on face value,
because it is all too easy to remove any adverse comments. Insurance
surveys are no better because these serve only to provide a valuation rather
than a condition report on the boat.

Making an offer
Always condition your offer with the term ‘subject to survey’. Then, if
problems are uncovered during closer inspection, the cost of repairs can be
offset against the price you pay.
If the yacht is out of the water when you make an offer, make it conditional
that you pay the final 10% balance after she has been launched and the
engine has been run and tested satisfactorily.
8 Where to base her?
What are the options?
If you live near the water, this question is academic, but if you are based
more than an hour away, then you are likely to have a choice of harbours in
which to base the yacht. Spend a weekend or two scouting round by car to
find a base that suits you.

Things to consider:

1. Are there places within easy cruising distance to sail to? It

can become tedious sailing out to sea each time, and then
having nowhere to head for other than one or two ports
either side of your home port.
2. What are the local facilities: fuel, lift-out, servicing,
sailmaker?
3. What does the local yacht club offer: club racing, organised
cruises, mooring facilities, social activities?
4. Is the harbour within easy travelling distance from home? Is
the route troubled by long queues during the season?

Trailer/sailer
If you have space in the front garden, the cheapest option is to keep the boat
on its trailer at home. It is also often the most convenient, because if you
have a spare hour or two you can easily tackle small maintenance jobs, or
make some progress on a larger project.

The less time you spend getting to the water and setting up the boat, the
more you will use her. Some marinas operate dry storage in a secure area,
and will even launch the boat prior to your arrival, but think about the
maintenance. If the boat is stored a long way from home, it simply won’t get
done, or only during good sailing time.

Launching/recovery
The big advantage of a trailer/sailer is that it gives you the opportunity to
trail the boat to explore different cruising grounds and take her with you on
family holidays both at home and abroad. But is she easy to launch and
recover?

The first task is to locate a good slipway that you can launch and recover
from at any state of the tide. The second is to have a good trailer preferably
with a swinging cradle at the back end, which takes up the natural line of
travel when the boat is launched and recovered. These are a quantum leap
forward from early spine trailers and are designed so that the trailer wheel
hubs and brakes need never be immersed in water. They not only simplify
the whole process, but cut down on the maintenance and inevitable corrosion
that leads to brake and hub failures.

The swing cradle reduces single-handed recovery to a simple routine. The

trailer wheels need be immersed no deeper than the tyre rims, and with the
boat’s centre point close to the pivot point of the cradle, this rocks
backwards, its rollers acting as a guide for the boat to slide off.

During recovery, the same rollers receive the bow and centre the boat, and as
you winch in, the cradle tilts and these rollers than take up the line of the
bilge as the keel is brought in line with the rollers set along the forward
spine of the trailer. There is no risk of the boat moving off line and grazing
the finish on the rollers. The wheel bearings are kept dry and the trauma of
recovery becomes a thing of the past.
 Pile mooring
Pile moorings have been introduced in crowded anchorages to maximise the
number of boats that can be accommodated in a small area. They are more
secure than swinging from a buoy because the boats are attached fore and aft
to the piles. They are invariably more expensive than a swinging mooring.
Some harbours operate a water taxi, which can simplify getting to and
from the yacht, but does it operate during weekdays and out of season?
There is nothing more boring for friends and family than standing around for
an hour or so waiting idly for one person to put the yacht back on its
mooring and row ashore - especially after a long day of sailing.
 Marina berth
A marina berth can be 2-3 times the cost of a swinging mooring, but does
allow 24 hour access, free parking, electricity and water, together with a
greater degree of security. There are invariably a restaurant, toilets and
showers nearby and it it much easier to entertain guests onboard. If time is
limited, then the extra cost may well be worth considering.

Things to consider:

1. What are the tidal restrictions to getting in and out of the basin?
2. Is the water polluted?
3. Is there plenty of parking space?
4. How noisy are the neighbours?
 Swinging mooring
The swinging mooring is the cheapest option for keeping your yacht
afloat.

Things to consider:

1. How long will it take you to launch the dinghy and get out to
your yacht?
2. Does the mooring dry out?
3. If so, is your yacht designed to take to the ground?
4. Is the area sheltered from the prevailing winds?
5. Is the ground tackle strong enough to anchor the weight of
your yacht?
Low tide in the Thames estuary reveals the ability bilge keeled yachts
have to stand upright on quite rough ground. If you are planning to
keep your yacht on a drying mooring, do check the surrounding ground
for large stones and debris. The anchor ground tackle also needs to be
looked at once a year to check for corrosion with a view to replacing
the chain.
9 Paperwork
What paperwork do I need to carry? Ship’s papers
These must all be original documents (photocopies are not acceptable), and
comprise:

Registration document
This is compulsory if you intend to take a non-commercial pleasure craft
outside UK territorial waters. This applies both to boats that are sailed or
driven to a foreign port, or trailered on the road by train or ferry.

Proof of ownership
A bill of sale is required for vessels registered on the UK Small Ships
Register (SSR) because this register only indicates the vessel’s nationality,
and not ownership of the vessel. If the owner is not onboard, the skipper is
required to carry a letter authorising use of the vessel to prove that the loan
is not an illegal charter arrangement.

Proof of VAT status

Residents of the EU can only use vessels within Community waters if VAT
has been paid or ‘deemed’ to have been paid. Proof of the VAT status of a
vessel is not part of the ship’s papers, so it is required in order to prove that
the boat is entitled to free movement throughout the EU. If documentary
evidence is not readily available in the form of a receipted invoice or
similar, customs officials have the power to impound your boat, so be
warned.

Recreational Craft Compliant

If your vessel was built or imported into the EU, including Iceland,
Liechtenstein, Norway and Switzerland after 16th June 1998, you are
required to carry proof that your boat is Recreational Craft Directive (RCD)
Compliant. This requirement is satisfied by the builder’s CE mark, shown
on the manufacturer’s plate, which certifies that a product has met EU
consumer safety, health and environmental requirements.

Ship Radio Licence

Under the International Radio Regulations, vessels with any kind of radio
transmitter, even a hand-held VHF, must have a licence. Ofcom issues the
licence in the UK, and applications can be made online at
www.ofcom.org.uk. The licence details the equipment onboard, and covers:

Ship Radio Licence should include:

1. Fixed or portable VHF or VHF/DSC radio

2. MF/HF radio equipment
3. AIS transponder
4. Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB)
5. Personal Locator Beacon (PLB)
6. Radar
7. Satellite communications
8. Search and Rescue Transponder (SART)
9. Ship Earth Station (SES) equipment

Check if your set has an Active Radar Target Enhancer or is ATIS capable,
since these are not available to select on the list of licensable equipment and
you need to request a variation to your Ship Radio Licence. The licence has
to be updated whenever changes are made to the equipment onboard.

Call signs and Maritime Mobile Service Identity (MMSI) numbers are
allocated when the first application is made. This call sign remains valid for
the lifetime of the vessel regardless of changes in ownership or name,
unless the boat is sold outside the UK.

MMSI numbers are only issued when Digital Selective Calling (DSC)
and/or Ship Earth Station (SES) equipment is fitted.
Remember that EPIRBs must be registered both on the Ship Radio Licence
and with the MCA EPIRB Registry to ensure that all Maritime Rescue Co-
ordination Centres (MRCC) have the necessary information should your
EPIRB be activated.

European inland waterways

Under the Regional Arrangement Concerning the Radiotelephone Service
on Inland Waterways (RAINWAT), all vessels navigating the inland
waterways of central Europe must be equipped with a VHF radio with an
active ATIS transmission facility. An ATIS number is issued by Ofcom as a
Notice of Variation to the Ship Radio Licence. For the moment, Ofcom
does this manually, and applicants must allow up to a month for details of
the vessel to be activated by the European regulator, the Belgian Institute
for Post and Telecommunications (BIPT).

The Ofcom website (www.ofcom.org.uk) provides answers to FAQs

about ATIS and RAINWAT. It also explains how to request the Notice
of Variation to your Ship Radio Licence and obtain the ATIS number
for your vessel. You must also carry a copy of the Basel Arrangement
governing ATIS onboard. This can be downloaded from the
RAINWAT website, www.rainwat.bipt.be.

Hand-held radio
The Ship Portable Radio Licence is only valid in UK waters.
Licencees voyaging within RAINWAT countries must apply for a full
Ship Radio Licence. If your vessel does not have an MMSI number,
then you can obtain one by e-mailing licensingcentre@ofcom.org.uk.
Digital Selective Calling (DSC) VHF radio transmitters are not yet
mandatory aboard small pleasure craft in UK waters, but new small
craft VHF sets are now Global Maritime Distress Safety System
(GMDSS) compatible, though with some, the DSC element has to be
purchased separately. DSC is a tone signalling system similar to the
tone dialling on your phone, operating on VHF Channel 70. It has the
ability to include other information such as the vessel’s identification
number, the purpose of the call, your position, the channel you want
to speak on - and when necessary, the nature of distress.
The distress message is repeated automatically every 4 minutes until
acknowledged either by a Coastguard station or ship within radio
range.
The minimum standard for small craft DSC-equipped radios for fixed
use in Europe is EN 301 025. Check that the equipment is marked in
accordance with the EU Radio and Telecommunications Terminal
Equipment (R&TTE).

Radio Operator’s Certificate

A VHF radio may be used by anyone in emergency situations, but can
only be used for general transmissions by a licensed operator or
person under the direct supervision of someone with a Maritime
Radio Operator’s Certificate.
The Short Range Certificate (SRC) covering the use of VHF/DSC
equipment is the common operator’s certificate for cruising vessels.
You must attend a day-long course at a sailing school or club to gain
the certificate.
A Long Range Certificate (LRC) is required for MF, HF and satellite
communications equipment. The LRC is administered by the
Association of Marine Electronic and Radio Colleges (AMERC).
Courses range from 3-4 days and include an examination, which you
must pass to gain the certificate.
 Marine insurance
Your home insurance policy may include coverage for low value boats, but
the coverage is often very limited. Typically, a home insurance policy will
pay up to £1,000 if something happens to your boat while it is at your house
and may even offer some liability coverage while you are using the boat,
but the coverage is likely to be less than ideal.

Marine insurance premiums can vary widely, but on the basis that you pay
for what you get, the cheaper policies carry a greater number of exclusions
and ‘extras’. If you have any doubts, use an independent insurance broker
to source the best cover. Yachts older than 15 years are usually insured on
an ‘agreed value’ basis and, in the event of a total loss, will pay out the full
amount.
Uninsured cover will cover you in the event of damage caused by another
vessel that is uninsured. Another value clause to look for is legal fees in the
event of a dispute. When my yacht sank during its relaunch following a
winter refit, while in the hands of the marina operator, the legal team
associated with my insurance company secured an £18,000 settlement. The
extra cost on the policy was just £11 - money well spent!

If you suffer a partial loss, damaged items are usually replaced on a new-
for-old basis. Marine insurance should also cover hurricane and tornado
damage, though the policy may stipulate layup during those periods.
Liability coverage protects you against 3rd party claims for damage and
injury to someone other than you or a family member. In a world where no-
win-no-fee lawsuits are now common, it pays to have this coverage.

Geographical issues
If you are cruising extensively check that your policy covers the areas you
want to sail to. Yachts based in the UK for instance, often have a lattitude
restriction limiting you to a cruising area south of the River Elbe and north
of La Rochelle. In the Caribbean, insurance companies insist that vessels
are laid up or moored in secure achorages during the hurricane season -
June 1 to November 30. Pirates operate in many parts of the world and you
may have difficulty securing insurance in these waters. Consider crew
medical and liability insurance. It may be cheaper to include this in the boat
insurance plan.

Personal papers

Passport
Each crew member must carry a passport. The crew may also require visas
if you intend to cruise outside EU waters. Check well ahead of time because
visas can take several days to get. If you have a non-EU citizen onboard,
they will need to clear through immigration each time you cross from one
country to another, even if the vessel is not required to clear customs.
 International Certificate of Competence (ICC)
Whilst it is not (yet) a requirement for UK skippers of pleasure craft below
24m (78.74ft) or 80 tonnes to have a certificate of competence or licence,
this is not the same in all EU countries. The requirements vary from country
to country so you need to check out what is required in advance You can do
this through the country’s National Sailing Authority or embassy.
If you do not hold a Yachtmaster certificate and are chartering a vessel or
cruising in Northern Europe, a letter from a Flag Officer or Club Secretary
outlining your experience and competence may suffice. However, skippers
of UK flagged vessels are required to hold an ICC when cruising the inland
waterways of Europe and inland and coastal waters of Mediterranean
countries Certainly, anyone planning to charter abroad should ask the
charter company for details of the certification they require to meet local
laws and insurance requirements.
 The ICC is NOT a qualification. It is simply documentary assurance
from one government to another that the holder meets locally accepted
levels of competence. It allows UK citizens and residents to navigate
pleasure craft in the waters of participating states without the need to
comply with national transport laws, in particular, compulsory certification
requirements.

European Inland Waterways

In addition to holding an ICC, you must also learn the Code Européen des
Voies de la Navigation Intérieure (CEVNI) which governs navigation on the
interconnected European inland waterways. You will need to pass a short
multiple-choice exam at a recognised sailing school.

How do I apply for an ICC or CEVNI?

The Royal Yachting Association (RYA) is the UK issuing authority for the
ICC and CEVN endorsement. To prove your competence to gain an ICC
you must have attained an RYA practica training certificate in either the
Radio Operation or First Aid categories. Remember that the ICC is valid
only for the type of vessel and level that you passed your competence test
on. The minimum age is 16.

e-Borders - what new EU legislation could mean to you

The aim of new e-Borders legislation is to collect and analyse information
about everyone intending to travel to or from the United Kingdom before
they leave in order to provide the Security Services with a comprehensive
record of everyone crossing UK borders.

The legislation, requiring all cruising folk to file the equivalent of a ‘flight
plan’ listing crew details and intended destination, every time you set out
from your marina berth or mooring, was due to come into force at the end
of 2010. However, a government report questioned the legality of the e-
Borders programme as it would cut across the overriding principle of EU
residents having the right to travel freely within the entire EU. So the
current leaky border controls will continue until someone comes up with a
brighter plan.
However, you still need to have all your vessel and crew paperwork in
order, even though the sole interest for 9 out of 10 harbour officials remains
focused on how you are going to pay for the berthing facilities.
10 Training and qualifications
For the moment at least, there is no legal requirement for anyone in the UK
to undergo training before taking a boat out on their own, though in some
other EU countries, skippers are required to hold a certificate of
competence.

That said, every skipper is legally responsible not just for the safety of their
crew, but the actions they take afloat, so it makes good sense for everyone
in the family to undergo some formal training.

The Royal Yachting Association (RYA) has a syllabus of courses from the
introductory Level 1 for complete novices through to Yachtmaster Offshore
and Ocean certification which then allow you to hold an International
Certificate of Competence (ICC).
Cruising courses
Start Yachting

A short introduction to sailing for complete beginners.

By the end of the course you will have experienced steering a yacht,
sail handling, rope work and be aware of safety on board.
 Competent Crew

This course is for beginners and those who would like to become
active crew members rather than just passengers.
Experience living on board and really get to know the boat. Virtually
all the course is hands on. By the end of the course you will be able to
steer, handle sails, keep a lookout, row a dinghy and assist in all the
day to day duties on board. You should also have visited some
interesting places and had an enjoyable holiday.
 Day Skipper

A course for aspiring skippers with some experience and basic

navigation and sailing skills. Learn to skipper a short passage with
the instructor on hand to give advice and encouragement and ensure
your safety. Experience being in charge, taking credit when
everything goes well and being responsible when it doesn’t.
Yachtmaster
Unlike other courses in the cruising programme, there is no formal training
to complete to become a Yachtmaster. Instead, provided that you have
sufficient experience and sea time, you can put yourself forward for an
exam to test your skills and knowledge. Some sailing schools run a
combined training course and examination.
 Yachtmaster Coastal
The Yachtmaster Coastal course provides the knowledge to skipper a yacht
on coastal cruises, but does not necessarily give the experience needed to
undertake longer passages. The exam will include an assessment of your
skippering skills, boat handling, general seamanship, navigation, safety
awareness and knowledge of the IRPCS (collision regulations),
meteorology and signals. Candidates will be set tasks to demonstrate their
ability and may also be asked questions on any part of the syllabus for all
practical and shore-based courses up to Yachtmaster Coastal level.

Yachtmaster Coastal exam pre-requisites

A short introduction to sailing for complete beginners.

By the end of the course you will have experienced steering a yacht,
sail handling, rope work and be aware of safety on board.

The yacht used must be between 7m (23ft) and 24m (78ft) LOA and
be in sound, seaworthy condition, equipped with an up-to-date set of
charts and navigational publications, and be efficiently crewed. The
examiner will not take part in the management of the boat during the
exam.
 Yachtmaster Offshore
The Yachtmaster Offshore is competent to skipper a cruising yacht on
any passage during which the yacht is no more than 150 miles from
harbour. There is no formal training course leading up to the exam.
Some sailing schools run a combined training course and
examination.

Yachtmaster Offshore exam pre-requisites

The exam will include an assessment of your skippering skills, boat
handling, general seamanship, navigation, safety awareness and
knowledge of the IRPCS, meteorology and signals.
 Yachtmaster Ocean
A person holding a Yachtmaster Ocean qualification is experienced and
competent to skipper a yacht on passages of any length in all parts of the
world. The exam is an oral and written test of your knowledge of ocean
passage making including planning, navigation, worldwide meteorology,
crew management, yacht preparation, maintenance and repairs. You will
also be questioned on your sights taken at sea during an ocean passage.

Yachtmaster Ocean exam

The exam assesses your skippering skills, boat handling, general
seamanship, navigation, safety awareness and knowledge of the
IRPCS, meteorology and signals.
The Oral
 The candidate must produce:

1. A narrative account of the planning and execution of the

qualifying passage.
2. Navigational records, completed on board a yacht on passages,
out of sight of land showing that the candidate has navigated
the yacht without the use of electronic navigational aids.
3. The records must include: planning, reduction and plotting of a
sun run meridian altitude sight and a compass check carried
out using the bearing of the sun, moon, a star or planet.
4. During the oral test, the candidate will be called on to answer
questions on any aspects of ocean passage making, including
passage planning, astro navigation, worldwide meteorology,
 crew management, yacht preparation, maintenance and
repairs.

Written
The written exam will include questions on star sight planning and
reduction together with worldwide meteorology. Candidates who hold the
RYA Yachtmaster Ocean Shorebased certificate, Royal Navy Ocean
Navigation Certificate or a DoT Certificate of Competence as a Deck
Officer will be exempt from the written examination.

Before the exam you are required to:

1. Have completed the required mileage and experience as

skipper
2. Hold a VHF Radio Operators License or Short Range
Certificate
3. Hold a valid first aid certificate
11 Useful addresses
DWD Marine forecast:
weather.mailasail.com

International Institute of Marine Surveying:

www.iims.org.uk
Helpline: +44 (0)23 9238 5223

British Marine Federation:

www.britishmarine.co.uk
Helpline: +44 (0)1784 473377

HM Revenue and Customs:

customs.hmrc.gov.uk
National helpline: +44 (0) 845 010 9000
National yachtline: +44 (0) 845 723 1110

Maritime and Coastguard Agency:

www.mcga.gov.uk
Emergency tel: 999

Met Office:
www.metoffice.gov.uk
National helpline: +44 (0) 870 900 0100
From overseas:+44 1392 885680

Ofcom Radio Licensing Centre:

www.ofcom.org.uk/licensing
National helpline: +44 (0) 20 7981 3131
E-mail: licensing centre@ofcom.org.uk

Register of British Ships:

www.mcga.gov.uk
National helpline: +44 (0) 29 2044 8813

Royal Yachting Association (RYA):

www.rya.org.uk
National helpline:+44 (0) 845 345 0400

UK Border Agency:
www.bia.homeoffice.gov.uk
National helpline: +44 (0) 845 010 5200 E-mail:
ukbanationalityenquiries@ukba.gsi.gov.uk

UK Hydrographic Office:
www.ukho.gov.uk
National helpline: +44 (0) 1823 284077
Notices to mariners:
noticestomariners@ukho.gov.uk

Sailing Directions:
+44 (0) 1823 337900 ext 3382
E-mail: sailingdirections@ukho.gov.uk

Tides helpline:
+44 (0) 1823 337900 ext 3533/3530
E-mail: tides@ukho.gov.uk
Yacht charter companies

Britannia Sailing:
www.britanniasailingschool.co.uk
Tel: +44 (0) 1473 787019

Cosmos Yachting:
www.cosmosyachting.com
Tel: +44 208 878 0880

Sunsail:
www.sunsail.co.uk
National helpline: 0844 463 6817

The Moorings:
www.moorings.co.uk
National helpline: 0844 463 6879

Universal Yacht Charter:

www.universalyachtcharter.co.uk
Tel: +44 (0) 7884 183299

Yacht time-share companies

The Cruising Association:

www.cruising.org.uk
Tel: +44 (0) 20 7537 2828
Flexisail:
www.flexisail.com
Tel: +44 (0)1590 688008

Sunsail:
www.sunsail.co.uk
National helpline: 0844 463 6817

The Moorings:
www.moorings.co.uk
National helpline: 0844 463 6879

Finance companies

CGI Finance:
www.cgi-finance.co.uk

Close Marine Finance:

www.closemarine.com
Tel: +44 (0) 208 399 1111

Diamond Finance:
www.diamondvf.co.uk
National helpline: 0845 166 2316

HSBC:
www.business.hsbc.co.uk
National helpline: 0800 085 52851

Lombard Finance:
www.lombard.co.uk
Tel: +44 (0) 2380 232 171

Norton Finance:
www.nortonfinance.co.uk
National helpline: 0800 694 4400
Glossary
A
ABACK – When the headsail is sheeted to the windward side and the yacht
is hove-to.
ABAFT – Behind or towards the stern.
ABEAM – At right angles to the boat.
ADMIRALTY STOPPER KNOT – Secure stopper knot.
AFT – See Abaft.
AIRFLOW – Flow of air across the sails.
AIS – Automatic Identifying System.
ALTOCUMULUS – Middle-level cloud.
AMIDSHIPS – Centre of the boat.
ANAEROBIC – Corrosion or rot in which there is no dissolved oxygen
present such as when water is trapped under a fitting.
ANCHOR – Device to moor the yacht in open water on the end of a line.
ANEMOMETER – Instrument to measure wind speed.
ANODE – Sacrificial zinc or magnesium blocks attached to the hull to
protect dissimilar metals from galvanic or electronic corrosion.
ANTICYCLONE – Meteorological term describing area of high pressure.
ANTIFOULING – Paint containing toxic chemicals to discourage growth
of weed and marine life.
APPARENT WIND – The wind experienced by a moving boat. If the boat
is stationary, the apparent wind is the same as the true wind. If the boat is
moving towards the wind, the apparent wind is greater than the true wind. If
the boat is moving away from the wind, the apparent wind is less than the
true wind.
ASPECT RATIO – The aspect ratio of a sail is its width measured against
its depth of curvature, or height compared to its width. Hence, a high aspect
ratio mainsail refers to a tall narrow shape.
ASYMMETRIC DAGGER BOARDS – Form of bilge keels designed to
increase lift.
ASYMMETRIC SPINNAKER – Downwind sail with a fixed luff, which
is tacked or gybed like a jib.
ATHWARTSHIPS – From one side of the vessel to the other.

B
BACKING THE JIB – Setting the jib on the weather side to encourage the
boat to bear away.
BABY STAY – Inner forestay.
BACK STAY – Aft stay supporting the mast.
BACKWIND – When the airflow across the jib causes the mainsail to
flutter.
BAILER – Scoop to remove water from inside the boat.
BALANCE – Reference to relative balance between the hydrostatic lift on
the hull and the central point of the rig. This is measured by the degree of
weight or pressure on the tiller, giving weather helm when too heavy and
boat wants to point up, and lee helm when too light and boat wants to bear
away.
BALLAST – Weight added to make a vessel more stable.
BATTEN – Flexible strip of wood or reinforced resin to stiffen the leech of
the sail.
BEAM – Mid part of the boat, or measurement of maximum width of the
hull.
BEAM REACH – Sailing with the wind directly abeam.
BEAM SHELF – Structural member inside the hull to support the beams.
BEAR AWAY – To turn the bows away from the wind.
BEARING – Compass direction.
BEAT – The close-hauled, zigzag course to windward.
BEATING – Sailing close-hauled to windward.
BEAUFORT SCALE – Scale of wind speeds devised by Admiral Sir
Francis Beaufort.
BECKET – A second eye or attachment point in a pulley block.
BERMUDA RIG – Single masted sail plan with tall, triangular mainsail.
BERTH – A place to sleep; permanent mooring.
BIGHT – An open loop in a rope.
BILGE – Bottom inside part of the hull.
BILGE KEEL – Foil attached to bilge either side of yacht’s centreline.
BLACK BANDS – Narrow bands painted on the mast and boom to mark
the maximum extension of the mainsail luff and foot.
BLISTERING – Coating defect caused by physical or chemical instability.
BLOCK – A pulley.
BLOCK AND TACKLE – A multi-purchase pulley system.
BOLLARD – Verrtical post on a quayside to make fast mooring lines.
BOLT ROPE – Rope sewn or enclosed in the luff of the mainsail.
BOOM – Spar attached to the foot of the mainsail – and sometimes the jib.
BOOM VANG – Multi-purchase system or lever, also known as a kicking
strap, to prevent the boom from rising and to control the shape of the
mainsail.
BOOT-TOP – Decorative band around the waterline.
BOTTLE SCREW – Screw system used to tension rigging.
BOW – Front end of the boat.
BOWLINE – A knot used to tie a loop into the end of a rope.
BOW ROLLER – Roller device to run anchor chain over the bow.
BOWSPRIT – Spar that extends forward of the bow to support an
asymmetric spinnaker.
BOW THRUSTER – Power unit running transverse through the bow to
assist maneuvering.
BREAKWATER – Small upstanding ledge or coaming across the foredeck
to deflect water.
BROACH – When a yacht slews out of control broadside to the wind and
sea.
BROAD REACH – Point of sail when wind is abaft the beam.
BRONZE – Copper/tin alloy used to cast fittings.
BULLSEYE – Wooden block or thimble with a hole drilled through it to
take a rope to act as a block or stopper.
BULKHEAD – Transverse partition within the boat.
BUNG – Plug to block a drainage hole.
BUOY – Floating racing mark or navigation mark.
BUOYANCY – Power to float, having a density less than water.
BUOYANCY BAGS/TANKS – Built-in buoyancy to support the boat in
the event of a capsize.
BURGEE – Small flag flown from the masthead.
BUTT HOIST – The car to which the butts (mast end) of the spinnaker
poles are fixed when in use.

C
CABLE – Chain or rope attached to anchor.
CAM CLEAT – Cleat with two spring-load cams to hold a rope.
CAMBER – Curvature of a sail.
CAPSIZE – Point when the mast of a sailboat touches the water.
CALORIFIER – Heating system for a water tank.
CAP SHROUD – Outer side stay supporting mast.
CAPSTAIN – Winch to haul in the anchor chain.
CAR – Movable sheet lead running on a track.
CARLINE – Structural member to strengthen an opening within the deck.
CAT RIG – Simple free-standing single sail rig.
CATAMARAN – Twin-hulled vessel.
CATHODE – Positive anode to limit electronic action between dissimilar
metals under water.
CE CERTIFICATION – Certificate confirming that vessel complies with
EU Directives
CENTRE OF BUOYANCY – Point where the buoyant force of water acts
on the hull.
CENTRE OF EFFORT – Point where the force of wind acts on the rig.
CENTRE OF PRESSURE – Point where the side force of wind acts on
the hull.
CENTRE BOARD – Retractable keel that limits leeway, or the sideways
force of the sails.
CHAIN PLATE – Hull or deck fitting to which the shroud is attached.
CHART – Map of the sea.
CHINE – Line or crease in the hull. A hull built from flat sheets of
plywood is known as a hard chine boat.
CHINESE GYBE – Involuntary crash gybe.
CHORD DEPTH – Maximum depth of an aerofoil section.
CIN – Craft identification number (see also HIN).
CLAM CLEAT – Cleat with no moving parts that secures rope within its
grooved, V-shaped body.
CLEAR ASTERN / CLEAR AHEAD – One boat is clear astern of
another when her hull and equipment in normal position are behind a line
abeam from the after most point of the other boat’s hull and equipment in
normal position. The other boat is clear ahead.
CLEAT – Fitting designed to hold a rope under tension without the use of a
knot or hitch.
CLEVIS PIN – Pin that closes the fork of a rigging screw.
CLEW – Lower, aft corner of a sail.
CLEW OUTHAUL – Adjustor to change tension on the clew, and shape of
the sail.
CLINKER CONSTRUCTION – Traditional form of hull construction
where the planks overlap each other.
CLOSE REACH – Point of sailing midway between close-hauled and a
beam reach.
CLOSE-HAULED – Point of sailing closest to wind.
CLOVE HITCH – Common knot or hitch used to tie a rope to a ring or
rail.
COAMING – Small upstanding ledge or breakwater across or around the
deck to deflect water.
COCKPIT – Area of the yacht where helm and crew operate the boat.
COACHROOF – Raised section of deck forming a cabin
COL REGS – International. regulations for the prevention of collision at
sea.
COMPANIONWAY – Main passage through the boat.
COMPASS – Navigation instrument that points to the magnetic north pole.
COMPETION – Official delivery date.
CORE – Lightweight material sandwiched between structural membranes
of the hull and deck.
COUNTER – Area of deck between cockpit and transom.
CQR – Type of anchor shaped like a plough.
CRINGLE – Metal eye or attachment point in each corner of the sail.
CUNNINGHAM HOLE – Cringle in luff to attach a purchase to flatten the
sail.
CUTLASS BEARING – Water lubricated bearing supporting the outer end
of the propeller shaft.
CUTTER RIG – Bermudian rig with addition of an inner foresail or
staysail.
CURRENT – A stream of water.

D
DACRON – American name for man-made sail material named polyester
in Europe.
DAGGER BOARD – A vertically retracting keel that limits leeway, or the
sideways force of the sails.
DEAD RUN – Sailing dead downwind.
DECK HEAD – cabin ceiling
DEVIATION – Compass error influenced by magnetic materials nearby.
DINGHY – Small open boat without a fixed keel.
DIRTY WIND – Disturbed wind or wind shadow effect from another
sailboat to windward.
DISPLACEMENT – Volume/weight that a hull displaces in water.
DODGERS – Cloth spray protector attached to the guard rails or lifelines.
DORADE – Self draining deck ventilator.
DOWNHAUL – Rope or purchase used to tension the tack of a sail or
Cunningham.
DOWNWIND – Sailing in the same direction as the wind.
DRAFT – The depth of water that a vessel draws.
DROP KEEL – Form of lifting keel.

E
EASE – To slacken a rope or let a sheet out.
EBB – Outgoing tide or flow.
EDDIES – Area of reverse or back-running current.
EPOXY – Strong synthetic resin or coating.

F
FAIRLEAD – A fixed lead to guide a rope or sheet and prevent chafe.
FAIRWAY – Main navigable channel.
FAIR WIND – Wind direction that allows a boat to sail from A to B
without tacking.
FATHOM – Nautical unit of measure equal to 6ft (1.828m).
FENDER – Portable cushion or inflatable bladder to protect the hull from
rubbing against another boat or a pontoon.
FERRO-CEMENT – Concrete construction reinforced by a steel frame.
FETCH – Straight course sailed to windward without tacking.
FIDDLE – Raised edge or rail around stove or table.
FIGURE-OF-EIGHT KNOT – Stopper knot.
FIN AND SKEG – Keel and rudder configuration.
FLARE – Pyrotechnic used to signal an emergency; shape of hull where it
curves outwards from centreline.
FLOOD TIDE – A rising tide.
FLOOR – Structural member in the bottom of hull.
FOILS – Collective term for keel, centre board/dagger board and rudder.
FOLLOWING WIND – Opposite of headwind, when the wind comes
from astern.
FORE, FORWARD – Front part of hull.
FOREDECK – Front end of deck.
FOREFOOT – Point where the stem meets the keel.
FORESAIL – Jib or headstay.
FORESTAY – Forward stay supporting the mast.
FOTHERING – The process of stuffing anything that comes to hand (e.g.
sleeping bags) into a hole in the boat to stop water ingress.
FRACTIONAL RIG – Rig type where forestay terminates below the top
of the mast.
FREEBOARD – Height of a boat’s side above the water.
FREEDOM RIG – Simple free-standing single sail rig.
FRP – Fibre reinforced plastic.
FRACTIONAL RIG – Where the headstay intersects with the mast at a
point below the masthead.
FULL LENGTH KEEL – keel extending to back of yacht.
FURL – To gather up or reef a sail in an orderly manner.

G
GAFF – Spar supporting the top of a traditional four-sided mainsail – gaff
rig.
GALLEY – Kitchen area within a boat.
GALVANIC ACTION – Electrolytic corrosion between two dissimilar
metals.
GALVANIZED -Zinc coating to protect steel.
GARBOARD – Hull planking adjacent to keel.
GATE START – Method of starting a race with fleet passing behind the
stern of a guard boat tracking behind a yacht sailing close-hauled on port
tack.
GEL COAT – The smooth waterproof outer resin coating of a fibre-
reinforced moulded hull and deck.
GENOA – Large headsail that overlaps the mainsail.
GO ABOUT – To tack through the eye of the wind.
GOOSENECK – Double-hinged fitting to attach boom to mast.
GOOSE-WINGED – Running before the wind with mainsail set on one
side and jib ‘goose-winged’ out on the other.
GPS – Satellite-based global positioning system.
GREY WATER – Waste water.
GRP – Glass reinforced plastic.
GUARD RAIL – Safety lines or lifelines running around the side decks.
GUDGEON – Female part of a pair of rudder hangings into which the male
pintle fits.
GUNTER RIG – Traditional high-aspect mainsail with gaff that extends
almost vertically up from the mast.
GUNWALE – Outer strengthening piece around the top of the hull.
GUY – Windward spinnaker sheet or boom restrainer.
GYBE – Controlled form of tacking downwind when the transom passes
through the eye of the wind and the boom flies across from one side to the
other.

H
HALF HITCH – Temporary knot to attach a rope to a rail.
HALYARD – Rope or wire line to hoist sails up the mast.
HANK – Clip to attach luff or sail to a stay.
HARD CHINE – Line where the flat sheets used to construct a hull meet.
HARDEN UP – To point closer to wind.
HAWSE PIPE – Tube through deck leading anchor cable to chain locker.
HEAD – Top corner of a sail.
HEADS – Marine toilet, compartment.
HEADBOARD – Reinforced top corner of a mainsail.
HEADING – Direction that a boat is taking.
HEADSAIL – Jib or genoa.
HEADSTAY – Forward stay supporting the mast.
HEAD TO WIND – Boat facing directly into wind – the no-go zone.
HEAD UP – Sailing closer to the wind.
HEAVE TO – To bring the boat to a halt, head to wind, by backing the jib,
putting the rudder down and letting the mainsail fly.
HEEL – Bottom end of the mast. The sideways tilt of a sailing boat.
HELM – Rudder. Also short for helmsman or helmsperson.
HIGHFIELD LEVER – A locking lever to tension stays.
HIKE – To sit out and counter the heeling force of the wind.
HIN – Hull identification number (see also CIN).
HITCH – Type of knot for attaching a rope to a rail or hoop.
HOIST – Vertical dimension of a sail or flag.
HOLDING TANK – Sewage tank.
HORSE – Transverse hoop connected to lower mainsheet block.
HOUNDS – Where the shrouds connect to the mast.
HOVE TO – See Heave to.

I
INGLEFIELD CLIPS – Interlocking C-shaped clips used to attach signal
flaps, and sometimes a spinnaker, to a halyard.
IN IRONS – Term used when a sailboat is caught head to wind within the
no-go zone.
INVENTORY – List of equipment supplied with a yacht.
INVERTER – Electrical devise to convert direct current (DC) to
alternating current (DC).
ISAF – International Sailing Federation

J
JACKSTAY – A strong webbing strap running the length of the boat on
each side. By clipping the lifeline to this, it ensures that Jack stays on the
boat.
JETTY – A structure extending out from harbour wall or beach on which
to moor a vessel
JIB – Small headsail.
JIB SHEETS – Ropes controlling the set of the jib.
JIB STICK – Pole to goose-wing the jib from when sailing dead
downwind. Also known as a whisker pole.
JOCKEY POLE – Short pole used to hold the spinnaker guy away from
the stanchions, and to give a better mechanical angle to the guy to hold the
spinnaker pole off the forestay when it is far forward.
JUMPER STAY – Stay on the foreside of the mast to prevent the spar from
bending forward.
JUNK RIG – Simple fully-battened mainsail rig derived from the Far East.

K
KEDGE – Light, temporary anchor to hold the boat against an adverse tidal
stream.
KEEL – Structural backbone of vessel; iron or lead ballast attached to the
bottom of a yacht.
KEELSON – Structural member to which iron or lead keel is attached.
KETCH RIG – Two-masted rig with aft mast stepped forward if rudder
post.
KICKING STRAP – Multi-purchase system or lever, also known as a
vang, to prevent the boom from rising and control the shape of the mainsail.
KING PLANK – Main structural plank running down the centreline of the
foredeck.
KITE – Abbreviation for spinnaker.
KNEE – Supporting structure between transverse beams and side of hull.
KNOT – Nautical mile per hour (1 nautical mile equals 1.15 statute miles
or 1,852m). Also refers to a rope tie.
KNUCKLE – Sharp longitudinal line of distortion within the hull.

L
LAMINATE – Layers of fibre reinforced plastic embedded in resin;
decorative surface finish.
LANYARD – Short length of cord used as a safety line.
LATERAL RESISTANCE – Ability of a boat to resist leeway or sideways
force of the wind.
LAY LINE – The course on which your boat, sailing close-hauled on
starboard tack, can just make a windward mark, which is to be rounded to
port, is the starboard-tack lay line for that mark. The most windward line on
which you would approach the mark on port tack is the port-tack lay line.
LAZARETTE – Stern locker
LEAD – The direction that a rope is led.
LEE – Opposite to windward. The side away from the wind.
LEE CLOTH – Cloth divider to prevent crew from falling out of their
bunk.
LEECH – Trailing edge of a sail.
LEE HELM – A sailing boat, which requires its tiller to be pushed down to
the leeward side to counter the boat’s natural tendency to bear away, is said
to carry ‘lee helm’. This condition signifies that the rig is out of balance
with the hull.
LEE HO – Final warning call of helm as the tiller is pushed over to
leeward during a tack.
LEEWARD – Opposite of windward; away from the wind.
LIFE JACKET – Buoyancy vest designed to keep a nonswimmer or
unconscious person floating head up.
LIMBER HOLE – drainage hole within the bilge.
LOA – Length overall.
LETTER BOX – The gap between the foot of the mainsail and the boom.
LOOSE-FOOTED – Sail attached to a boom only by the clew and outhaul.
LUFF – The leading edge of a sail.
LUFFING – When a sailboat is steered closer to the wind.
LUFF ROPE – Rope sewn or enclosed in the luff of the mainsail. Also
known as bolt rope.
LWL – Load waterline or length of waterline.

M
MAINSAIL – Principal sail set on a mast.
MAINSHEET – Rope attached to the boom to trim the mainsail.
MARK – An object (buoy) the sailing instructions require a boat to pass on
a specified side.
MAST – A spar going straight up from the deck, used to attach sail and
boom.
MASTHEAD RIG – Where the forestay is attached to the top of the mast.
MARLIN HITCH – Line of linked knots tying sail to a spar.
MIDSHIPS – The middle part of the vessel.
MIZZEN – The aft sail or mast within a ketch or yawl rig.
MOULD – Male or female pattern for producing a plastic hull and other
mouldings.
MUUIHULL – Generic term for a catamaran or trimaran.
MYLAR – Polyester film used in the manufacture of sails.

N
NAUTICAL ALMANAC – Annual publication listing tide tables, lights
and radio beacons.
NAUTICAL MILE – 1 nautical mile equals 1.15 statute miles or 1,852m.
NEAP TIDES – Tides with the smallest rise and fall. Opposite of spring
tides.
NO-GO ZONE – Area 40° either side of the direction of the wind.

O
OAR – Wooden blade to row or scull a boat with.
OBSTRUCTION – An object that a boat cannot pass without changing
course substantially to avoid it, e.g. the shore, perceived underwater
dangers or shallows.
OCCULTING LIGHT – Flashing navigation light where the period of
light is longer than the period of darkness.
OFF WIND – Sailing in the same direction as the wind.
OFF THE WIND – Sailing a course lower than a beam reach.
ON THE WIND – Sailing a close-hauled course.
OOD – Officer of the Day.
OSMOSIS – Water penetration beneath the gel coat on a fibre reinforced
moulding.
OUTHAUL – Line used to stretch the clew of a sail to the end of the boom.
OUTBOARD MOTOR- Self contained propulsion system that bolts to the
transom of a boat.

P
P-BRACKET – Bracket containing cutlass bearing, supporting the outer
end of the prop shaft.
PAINTER – Mooring line.
PASSARELLE – Gang plank linking dock to aft deck.
PELICAN HOOK – Metal hook with a cam-action lock.
PFD – Personal flotation device such as a buoyancy aid or life jacket.
PINTLE – Male part of a pair of rudder hangings that fits into the female
gudgeon.
PITCH POLE – When a boat capsizes end over end.
PIVOTING SAIL DRIVE – Thru-hull propulsion system that rotates
through 360°.
PLANING – When a boat lifts its bows out of the water, and because of the
reduced drag, then accelerates onto a planing attitude.
POLED OUT – Running before the wind with mainsail set on one side and
the jib poled out or ‘goose-winged’ on the other.
POINTS OF SAILING – Beating, reaching and running before the wind.
PORT – Left hand side of a boat.
PORT GYBE – Sailing downwind with the wind on the port side of the
boat and mainsail out to port. This is the give-way gybe.
PORT TACK – Sailing with the wind on the port (left) side of the boat.
This is the give-way tack.
PORTSMOUTH YARDSTICK – Simple sailboat handicapping system
when mixed classes race together.
PRE-BEND – Amount of fore and aft bend set in a mast.
PREVENTER – Safety line.
PURCHASE – Mechanical advantage of the block and tackle or lever.

Q
QUARTER – Sides of the boat aft, i.e. starboard quarter, port quarter.
QUARTER BERTH – single berths within the end of the hull.

R
RACE – Fast running tide or stream.
RACING FLAG/PENNANT – Small rectangular flag flown at the
masthead to signal that the boat is racing.
RADAR – Navigation device used to determine angle and range of
coastline and other vessels.
RADAR REFLECTOR – Reflector to enhance radar signals transmitted
by other vessels.
RAKE – Degree that a mast leans back from vertical.
RATCHET BLOCK – Purchase block with an integral ratchet to lessen the
load of a sheet held in the hand.
RCD – Recreational Craft Directive.
REACH – Sailing course with the wind abeam.
REACHING – Sailing with the wind abeam.
REACHING HOOK – Device set close to the shrouds to run the
windward spinnaker sheet or guy through.
READY ABOUT – First warning call to the crew that the helm intends to
tack.
REEF – To reduce or shorten sail.
REEF KNOT – Knot joining two ropes together.
REEFING – Reducing the amount of sail area.
RIDING TURN – When a rope or sheet crosses under itself and jams, most
often around a winch.
RIG – General term for mast, spars and sails.
RIGGING – Standing wires that hold up the mast.
RIGGING SCREW – Screw to tension shrouds. Also known as a bottle
screw.
ROACH – The top curve within the leech of a mainsail.
ROCKER – Fore and aft curve within the central underside sections of the
boat.
ROLL TACKING – Use of crew weight to speed the process of tacking to
windward.
ROLLER JIB – Furling headsail.
ROTATING MAST – Spar designed to rotate from port to starboard to
present its best aspect to the wind.
ROUND TURN AND TWO HALF HITCHES – Knot used to attach rope
to a rail or hoop.
ROWLOCK – Swivel fitting on the guwwale to cradle a rowing oar.
RUBBING STRAKE – A strengthening strip secured to the gunwale as a
protective buffer.
RUDDER – Moving foil to steer the boat with.
RUN – Sailing dead downwind.
RUNNING – Sailing before the wind with the sail out.
RUNNING BY THE LEE – Sailing downwind with the mainsail set on
the windward side and about to gybe.
RUNNING RIGGING – Sheets and halyards used to set and control the
sails.
S
SAIL DRIVE – Thru-hull propulsion system.
SAIL TRIM – The position of the sails relative to the wind and desired
point of sail. Sails that are not trimmed properly may not operate efficiently.
Visible signs of trim are luffing, excessive heeling, and the flow of air past
telltales. Also see sail shape.
SELF BAILER – Thru-hull bailer that, once activated, allows the bilge
water to flow out when the keel boat is planing.
SEACOCK – A valve going through the hull, which can be shut from
inside the boat.
SEXTANT – A navigational instrument used to determine the vertical
position of an object such as the sun, moon or stars. Used with celestial
navigation.
SHACKLE – Metal link with screw pin to connect wires and lines.
SHEER – Line where topsides meet the deck.
SHEAVE – The wheel within a block.
SHEEPSHANK – Knot used to shorten a rope.
SHEET – Any rope used to adjust sail shape.
SHEET LEAD – Pulley or fairlead to guide sail sheets.
SHEET BEND – Knot used to join two dissimilar sized ropes together.
SHOAL KEEL – Short draft keel design.
SHOCK CORD – Elastic or bungee cord made of rubber strands.
SHROUDS – Wires supporting either side of the mast.
SKEG – short fin projecting from the bottom of vessel at the stern.
SLAB REEF – Method of reefing the mainsail.
SLIP HITCH – A temporary knot used to secure sails.
SLIP LINE – Temporary double line with both ends made fast to the boat
that can be released from onboard and pulled in.
SLOT EFFECT – The effect a jib has in accelerating the flow of air
around the back of a mainsail.
SNAP SHACKLE – Shackle with a secure locking mechanism instead of a
pin.
SPAR – General term for a mast, boom, gaff or spinnaker pole.
SPIGOT – The male prong onto which the female mast end of the
spinnaker or jockey pole fits.
SPINNAKER – Large parachute-like downwind sail.
SPINNAKER CHUTE – Open-mouthed tubular container fitted in the
bow from which to launch and recover the spinnaker.
SPINNAKER POLE – Spar to set the spinnaker from.
SPREADER – A strut usually fitted in pairs to deflect the shrouds and
control the bending characteristics of the mast.
SPRING TIDE – Extreme high tide caused by the gravitational pull of the
moon.
STANCHION – Vertical pole supporting guard rails.
STANDING RIGGING – fixed rigging.
STARBOARD – Right hand side of the boat.
STAY – Forward mast support.
STEM – Forward extremity of the boat.
STERN – Aft extremity of the boat.
STERN GLAND – Prop shaft seal to stop water ingress within the hull.
STOPPER – A cleating device that holds a sheet or halyard fast.
STROP – A ring of rope or wire used to make up an attachment to a spar.
SWAGE – Pressed wire terminal.
SWING KEEL – Form of lifting keel.
SWIVEL – Connector whose two parts rotate.
SWIVEL BLOCK – Block with a swivel joint.

T
TABERNACLE – Structure supporting a deck-stepped mast.
TACK – Lower forward corner of a sail.
TACKING – To sail close-hauled through the eye of the wind.
TACKLE – Multi-purchase system.
TAIL – The free end of a sheet or halyard.
TALURIT – Swaged wire splice.
TELLTALES – Strips of fabric or wool attached to the luff of a jib and
leech of the mainsail to indicate airflow across the sail.
THWART – Transverse seat or plank amidships.
TILLER – Arm of a rudder to control boat direction.
TILLER EXTENSION – Lightweight pole with universal joint attached to
the end of the tiller to allow the helm to sit outboard or steer from the
trapeze.
TOE STRAPS – Lengths of webbing running fore and aft in a sailboat for
crew to hook their feet under and hike out.
TRAILER/SAILER – Yacht small enough to be launched and recovered
on a road trailer.
TRAILING EDGE – Aft edge of a foil, i.e. sail, keel, rudder etc.
TRAMPOLINE – Rope netting or webbing strung between two hulls of a
catamaran.
TRANSIT – Sighting two objects in line.
TRANSOM – Transverse aft end of a boat.
TRAPEZE – Harness attached by wire to the hounds of the mast to allow
the crew to extend their whole body outboard of the sailboat to improve
their righting moment.
TRAVELLER – Fitting on a rope or track with limited travel used to adjust
the mainsheet.
TRIM – To adjust the sails to suit the wind direction.
TRIMARAN – Three-hulled multihull.
TRUCKER’S HITCH – Knot to tension a tie rope.
TUGMAN’S HITCH – Knot to secure towing strop to winch.
TWIST – Difference in angle to the wind between the top and bottom of a
sail.

U
UNIVERSAL JOINT – Hinge that allows universal movement.
UNSTAYED MAST – Mast without standing rigging.
UPHAUL – Control line to adjust the height of the spinnaker pole.

V
VANG – Multi-purchase system or lever, also known as a kicking strap, to
prevent the boom from rising and control the shape of the mainsail.
VARIATION – Difference in angle between True North and Magnetic
North.

W
WAKE – Turbulence left astern of a moving boat.
WARP – Rope used to moor a boat.
WEATHER HELM – A sailing boat, which requires its tiller to be held up
towards the weather side to counter the boat’s natural tendency to luff, is
said to carry ‘weather helm’. This condition signifies that the rig is out of
balance with the hull.
WETTED SURFACE – Total underwater area of the hull.
WHISKER POLE – Pole to goose-wing the jib from when sailing dead
downwind. Also known as a jib stick.
WINCH – Capstan used to tension sail sheets and halyards.
WINDLASS – See Winch.
WING KEEL – High lift/shoal draft keel form.
WORKING END – End of a rope used to tie a knot.

Y
YAWL RIG – Two-masted rig with aft mast stepped abaft if rudder post.
Acknowledgements
Our thanks go to surveyor Adrian White MIIMS, and John Kilhams from
the International Institute of Marine Surveying for their invaluable advice
and support during the production of this book. Other valuable
contributions towards this book have come from Tim Bishop, Alan and Sue
Brook, Paul Harrison and Steve Johnson from the Stafford Coastal Cruising
Club, Rob Thompson and Eileen Skinner, Andrew Winch and World
Cruising.
Our appreciation also goes to the following manufacturers, for providing
information and photographs: Bavaria Yachts, Beneteau, Britannia Sailing,
British Hunter Yachts, Churchouse Boats, Corsair Marine, Farrier Marine,
Halberg-Rassy, Haven Knox-Johnston, J Boats, Jeanneau, Lagoon
Catamarans, Nauticat, Northshore Yachts, Oyster Marine, Performance
Laser, Quorning Boats, and Sunsail.
Grateful thanks must also go to PPL’s designers Kayleigh Reynolds and
George Gray and to Andrew Weatherall and the picture research team at
PPL Photo Agency for sourcing the many photographs we needed to
illustrate particular points throughout this book.
Design and illustrations: Kayleigh Reynolds and George Gray.
Photo research: PPL Photo Agency.
Photography:
Charles Anderson: 27, Tim Bishop/PPL: 90, 98, 99, Nicolas Claris: 50, 51,
Matt Evans: 70, David Harding: 20, 22, 23, 30, 31, 110, Lu Harris: 24, Katy
Kilhams/PPL: 83, Nick Kirk/PPL: 4, 24, 25, Jean-Marie Liot: 38, Gilles
Martin-Raget: 39, 121, Rolf Nachbar: 49, Stuart Pearce: 65, 67, Mark
Pepper/PPL: 12, 13, Barry Pickthall/PPL: 6, 12, 87, Dave Porter/PPL: 77,
Erik Simonson/PPL: 27, David Smyth/PPL: 110, 112, Peter Szamer: 36, 37,
90, 99, 102, Wojtek Urbanek: 60, 116
 Going Foreign
by Barry Pickthall
978 1 4081 2675 2
Reeds Skippers Handbook, 6th edition
by Malcolm Pearson
978 1 4081 2477 2
Instant Weather Forecasting, 4th edition
by Alan Watts,
978 1 4081 2675 2
Reeds Knot Handbook
by Jim Whippy
978 1 4081 3945 5
Published by Adlard Coles Nautical
an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc
50 Bedford Square
London
WC1B 3DP
www.adlardcoles.com
First edition published 2012
Copyright © Barry Pickthall 2012
Print ISBN 978-1-4081-5418-2
Epub ISBN 978-1-4081-5926-2
uPDF ISBN 978-1-4081-5594-3
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any
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The right of the author to be identified as the author of this work has been
asserted by him in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents
Act, 1988.
A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
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Printed and bound in India by Replika Press Pvt Ltd.