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w w w. p l a n s n o w. c o m

JELLY CUPBOARD
E very fall, my grandma made homemade jelly. After
each jar was sealed, it was set in a jelly cupboard
similar to this one to cool. I always liked the “down-
home” look of that cabinet and tried to duplicate that
appearance with this version.

JOINERY. The shelves in this cupboard could have

been mounted on adjustable shelf brackets. But I did
something different this time. By gluing the shelves
into dadoes in the cupboard sides, the shelves are per-
manently attached. This helps keep the cabinet from
racking. So the shelves are both functional and struc-
tural. The door frame is assembled with half-lap joints
reinforced with dowel pins at the corners. This joint is
easily cut on the table saw or router table.

TIN PANELS. The door holds four tin panels. The pat-
tern punched in each one is decorative, but it also
serves a practical purpose. The holes allowed air to cir-
culate so moisture from the jelly wouldn’t build up
inside the cabinet. Making the panels is easy. We used
four sheets of tin (purchased at a local harware store)
cut down to appoximately 10" x 14" each. Just use a
punch and follow a pattern that you've draw on a piece
of paper. The cupboard can also be built with wood
raised panels instead of tin. The Designer’s Notebook
on page 8 shows how to make this option.

BACK SLATS. Ordinarily I use plywood for a cabinet

back, but for a “country” project like this, plywood
seemed out of place. So I used solid pine — but not a
glued-up panel. Instead, I cut rabbets on the slats for a
“ship lap” joint. This allows them to expand and con-
tract without pushing on the cupboard sides.

FINISH. To avoid a blotchy finish, I used a pine sealer

first. Then I stained it to get an "aged" look.

From Woodsmith Magazine page 1 of 8 ©2004 August Home Publishing

All rights reserved One copy for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
 EXPLODED VIEW
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
20W x 123/4D x 58H

TOP
I

KEEPER TOP BACK

STRIP FACING SLAT
N STRIP
H
D
2" BUTT
HINGE

HARVEST FRUIT GRANDMA'S PIE

PUNCHED LATCH
ROD
TIN
PANEL O

P
FLIPPER HEARTS ON A BLANKET FRUIT BASKET
1!/4"
DOOR MAPLE
DIVIDER KNOB
M

DOOR
RAIL
K J SPRING FLOWERS DAISY SWIRL
B
DOOR
STILE SHELF

E
MATERIALS LIST
BOTTOM
DOOR FACING CASE
DOWEL STRIP A Sides (2) 3/ x 111/ - 571/
4 4 4
PIN 3/ x 101/ - 173/
L B Shelves (5) 4 2 4
KICKBOARD C
C Side Facing Str. (2) 3/4 x 1 - 571/4
DOWEL SIDE A
PIN FACING D Top Facing Strip (1) 3/4 x 1 - 161/2
F STRIP SIDE
G
KICKBOARD
E Bot. Facing Strip (1) 3/4 x 2 - 161/2
F Kickboard (1) 3/ x 51/ 181/
4 2- 2
G Kickbd. Dwl. Pins (4)1/4 dowel - 21/4
H Back Slats (4) 3/ x 45/ - 511/
4 8 4
I Top (1) 3/ x 123/ - 20
4 4
DOOR
CUTTING DIAGRAM J Door Stiles (2) 3/ x 21/ - 495/
4 2 8
#/4 x 7!/4 - 60 (Four Boards @ 3.3 Bd. Ft. Each) K Door Rails (2) 3/ x 21/ - 163/
4 2 8
A NOTE: PARTS G & L ARE CUT FROM L Door Dowel Pins (8) 1/4 dowel - 3/4
3/ x 21/ - 121/
AN 18" LENGTH OF !/4"DOWEL. M Door Dividers (3) 4 2 8
#/4 x 11!/4 - 60 (Two Boards @ 5 Bd. Ft. Each) KEEPER STRIPS (N) ARE CUT FROM N Keeper Strips (16) 1/4 x 1/4 - 13 rough
OVERSIZE BLANKS. O Latch Rod (1) 3/ dowel - 15/
H 8 8
CUT LATCH ROD (O) FROM 3/8" 1/ x 1/ - 111/
DOWEL.
P Flipper (1) 8 2 16
H
C CUT FLIPPER (P) FROM SCRAP.
HARDWARE SUPPLIES
#/4 x 11!/4 - 96 (8 Bd. Ft.)
(24) No. 8 x 11/2" Fh woodscrews
(6) No. 8 x 13/4" Fh woodscrews
B B B B B (3) 2" x 19/16" butt hinges w/ screws
(4 pieces) 10" x 14" tin (rough size)
#/4 x 11!/4 - 96 (8 Bd. Ft.) (40) 1/2" wire brads
K K (1) 11/4"-dia. maple knob
I I F M M M (20) 4d (11/2"-long) square cut finish nails
E N J (optional)
D N J

From Woodsmith Magazine page 2 of 8 ©2004 August Home Publishing

All rights reserved One copy for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
 SIDES & SHELVES 1 TAPE SPACER TO 6
STRAIGHTEDGE

Back when cupboards like this were a A

common fixture in the kitchen or pantry, SIDE
LAYOUT
they would probably have been made of LINES FOR
DADOES
knotty pine. So to make this jelly cup- NOTE: DADOES ARE 12!/2"
APART, MEASURED TOP EDGE
board look authentic, I used No. 2 TO TOP EDGE. 12!/2 a. SEE SHOP
common pine. !/2" TIP BELOW
STRAIGHT FOR ROUTING
After letting the lumber dry out in the !/2 BIT DADOES
12!/2
shop for two weeks, I started work on NOTE: A #/8
TO ROUT SIDE
the sides of the cupboard. DADOES, 11!/4 (#/4"-THICK STOCK,
CUT TO SIZE. In order to minimize the CLAMP SIDES 57!/4" LONG)
TOGETHER WITH THICKNESS #/4
cupping that may occur with wide INSIDE FACES UP OF SHELVES
TOP ENDS
boards, I edge-glued each of the sides
from two narrower boards. When the
glue dried, I cut the sides (A) to a fin- 2
ished width of 111/4" and finished length a.
A THICKNESS
of 571/4" (Fig. 1). SIDE
OF BACK
RIP
SHELF DADOES. Five shelves hold the FENCE #/4
sides of the cupboard together. The
shelves are held in dadoes spaced apart NOTE: A
#/8
evenly (Fig. 1). But there are a couple SIDES ARE
MIRROR IMAGES FRONT
tricks to routing the dadoes in the sides AUX. EDGE
FENCE AUX.
and getting them to align after the cup- FENCE
board is assembled.
First, I clamped both cupboard sides
together with their top ends flush and
the inside faces up (Fig. 1). Then I laid by using a removable spacer against the the sides up first and mark the edges to
out the positions of the dadoes by meas- straightedge (Fig. 1). (Refer to the Shop be rabbeted.
uring down from the top end. Tip below for details.) DECORATIVE CUTOUTS. The last cuts
To follow the layout lines for the BACK RABBET. After routing the dadoes to make on the cupboard sides look
dadoes, I guided the router against a for the shelves, a rabbet can be cut in simply to be decorative — but they also
straightedge clamped to the workpiece. each cupboard side for installing the serve a purpose.
And because the pine for the shelves was back slats (Figs. 2 and 2a). The semi-circular cutout at the bottom
slightly less than 3/4" thick, I used a 1/2" Note: To make sure the rabbets are of each piece creates a pair of “feet.”
straight bit in the router. I routed each routed along the correct edges (the sides (Fig. 3). This allows the cabinet to
dado to the correct width in two passes are “mirror” images), it helps to stand “bridge” uneven spots in the floor.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Routing Custom-Fit Dadoes

When cutting a dado in
a large panel, using a
hand-held router is
easier than wrestling a
large panel on my table
saw or router table.
Since lumber is rarely
the exact same thickness
as the diameter of a
router bit, I use a smaller
bit and make two
passes. First set up a
fence with a spacer strip should equal the finished
that determines the width of the dado (Fig.
exact finished width of 1a). After the first pass,
the dado. The width of remove the spacer. A
the strip, plus the diam- second pass completes
eter of the router bit the dado (Fig. 2).

1 2 SPACER FIRST
PASS
a.
STRAIGHT
BIT

SPACER
SPACER
REMOVE SPACER SECOND
WIDTH TO COMPLETE DADO PASS
OF DADO
TAPE ROUT IN
SPACER DIRECTION
STRIP TO OF ARROW
FENCE

From Woodsmith Magazine page 3 of 8 ©2004 August Home Publishing

All rights reserved One copy for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
 3 4 B 5 18!/2"
SHELF OVERALL
RABBET CUT FIVE SHELVES
FROM 1x12 STOCK
SIDE A

3!/4" R
FRONT BACK 17#/4
EDGE EDGE 10!/2

2 2#/4 CHECK
NOTE: IF 1x12 IS CUPPED, RIP SHELF INTO FOR
6 THIRDS AND REGLUE WITH MIDDLE PIECE SQUARE
UPSIDE DOWN, THEN PLANE FLAT
WEDGE
CLAMP
(SEE
SHOP TIP
Note: Although the feet start out dif- BELOW)
ferent widths, they’ll end up the same
after a facing strip is added to the front
(refer to Fig. 6 on page 5).
After laying out the arcs, I used a jig
saw to cut just shy of the layout lines.
Then I smoothed up to the line with a
drum sander.
SHELVES. Next, I started on the
shelves. I cut these from 1x12s. A single
board this wide will often cup. If your
stock is cupped, one way to flatten it is to
rip each shelf blank into thirds. Then
glue the blank together with the middle
piece upside down. When the glue dries, Square-cut nails are an authentic detail. NOTE:
plane the blank flat. To prevent splitting the wood, drill pilot ALIGN SHELVES
FLUSH WITH FRONT
Now the shelves can be ripped to holes before driving the nails. Then “set” OF CASE SIDES
AND SHOULDER
width so they’re flush with the front the heads just below the surface with a OF RABBET
edges of the sides and also the shoul- punch before sanding the side.
ders of the rabbets for the back slats
(Fig. 5). Then cut the shelves (B) to fin- ASSEMBLY. Finally, the case can be Note: Keep the shelves flush to the
ished length (Fig. 4). To determine this assembled with the shelves glued into front edges of the sides (A). If you don’t
length, measure between the bottoms the dadoes (Fig. 5). The Shop Tip below have enough clamps, you can also
of the dadoes on the case sides. shows one way to do this. assemble the case with square-cut nails.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clamping With Wedges

While dry-assembling the
jelly cupboard, I ran into
a problem. When the
shelves were clamped
between the sides, the
centers of the side
panels cupped out (Fig.
1). I came up with a fix
that uses opposing
wedges. The wedges
work against a clamping
bar that “straddles” the
sides (Fig. 2). It's simply a
2x4 block with a 1/2"-
thick spacer glued on
each end. I stuck the
spacers to the side of the
cabinet using carpet
tape. Then I clamped the
cupboard assembly
together. To force the
center of the side panel
tight against the shelf,
tap opposing wedges
between the clamping
bar and the sides until
the shelf is completely
seated in the dado.

1 2 WEDGES REMOVE !/2"-THICK

WHEN USING CLAMPS ONLY,
SIDES CAN CUP AWAY FROM SHELF CUPPING SPACER a.
CLAMP

SHELF

CLAMPING
CLAMPING BAR
BAR

From Woodsmith Magazine page 4 of 8 ©2004 August Home Publishing

All rights reserved One copy for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
 6 FACING STRIPS
a. D
TOP To create a frame that surrounds the
FACING
STRIP door, facing strips are added next.
1 The facing strips are attached to the
D front edges of the cabinet sides and to the
TOP
FACING top and bottom shelves (Fig. 6).
STRIP
#/4" x 1" - 16!/2" !/4 RIP TO WIDTH. First, I ripped two side
TOP
SHELF C facing strips (C) and one top facing strip
SIDE (D) to a width of 1" (Fig. 6).
FACING
STRIP SIDE STRIPS. Now cut the side strips to
NOTE:
ALIGN TOP the same length as the cupboard sides.
FACING STRIP 1 Then glue these to the sides, flush with
WITH TOPS OF
C SIDE FACING STRIPS the outside edges.
SIDE TOP AND BOTTOM STRIPS. Next, I
FACING
STRIP ripped a 2"-wide piece for the bottom
#/4" x 1" - 57!/4"
b. facing strip (E) (Fig. 6).
Then the top and bottom facing strips
B
BOTTOM 1
(D, E) can be cut to length to fit snugly
SHELF between the side strips.
ATTACH TO CASE. Before gluing on the
C top and bottom strips, make marks on
2 SIDE the top and bottom shelves to indicate
C FACING
SIDE
!/4 STRIP where the strips should be glued on
FACING (Figs. 6a and 6b). By leaving 1/4" of each
STRIP
shelf edge exposed, a lip is created at
E the top and bottom of the door opening.
BOTTOM
FACING These lips serve as stops for the door
E STRIP
BOTTOM
(attached later).
FACING STRIP
#/4" x 2" - 16!/2"
KICKBOARD
7 A kickboard at the bottom of the cup-
F KICKBOARD board adds a decorative touch.
a. ROUTER
18!/2 TABLE
FENCE
CUT TO SIZE. To make the kickboard
NOTE: (F), first rip a piece of 3/4"-thick stock to
ROUT TOP
OUTSIDE EDGE a width of 51/2" (Fig. 7). Then cut it to
OF KICKBOARD length to match the width of the case.
5!/2 3!/4" R 3!/4" R
ROUND OVER TOP EDGE. Next, to
WASTE F
soften the transition between the kick-
2!/2 2!/2 board and the lower facing strip, rout a
!/2" ROUND- 1/ " roundover along the top outside edge
2
5#/4 5#/4 OVER BIT
of the kickboard (Fig. 7a).
TOE OPENING. To make a toe opening
on the kickboard, I used my jig saw to cut
8 #/8
out a profile along the bottom edge (Fig.
1!/4 a. 7).
1"-WIDE
B
ATTACH TO CASE. Now the kickboard
REVEAL
E can be attached to the case. But I did
CROSS
SECTION this with dowel pins (G) (Fig. 8). First,
F
clamp the kickboard to the case and drill
1!/4
1!/4
two 1/4"-dia. holes that go through the
DRILL
HOLES kickboard and facing strip into the cup-
FOR PINS
TRIM
2" DEEP board side (Fig. 8a).
PINS
FLUSH Then cut four lengths of dowel to fit
KICKBOARD in the holes.
DOWEL PIN
!/4"-DIA. x NOTE: Note: Cut the dowels so they stand
2!/4" LONG ATTACH KICKBOARD
WITH GLUE AND G proud of the kickboard when they’re
G DOWEL PINS
1!/4 tapped into the holes (Fig. 8a). Then
they can be trimmed and sanded flush
after they’re glued in place.

From Woodsmith Magazine page 5 of 8 ©2004 August Home Publishing

All rights reserved One copy for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
 BACK & TOP (J) and two door rails (K) to finished CORNER PINS. Next, I drilled two 1/4"-
width (Fig. 11). dia. holes through each corner of the
The back of the cupboard is made of indi- Then, to determine the length of the frame for the dowel pins (L) (Fig. 11a).
vidual slats to allow for plenty of expan- pieces, measure between the facing Then glue the pins into the holes and
sion and contraction. strips and subtract 1/8" to allow for a 1/16" trim them flush with the frame.
CUT TO SIZE. To make the back, start gap all around the door. Cut the frame RABBET. When the frame is assem-
by ripping four back slats (H) from 3/4"- pieces to finished length (Fig. 11). bled, rout a rabbet around the perimeter
thick stock to the same width (Fig. 9). END LAPS. Now cut the end lap joints of the door opening in the back side
The finished width allows for a 1/16" gap half the thickness of each of the mating (Figs. 12 and 12a). This creates a lip for
between the installed slats (Fig. 9a). pieces (Fig. 11a). the door panels.
Next, cut the slats to finished length After the lap joints are cut, the frame When the rabbet is cut, square up the
so they extend from the top of the cab- can be glued and clamped together. corners with a chisel (Fig. 12b).
inet sides to the bottom of the lower shelf
(Fig. 9). 9 NOTE:
SHIP LAPS. The ship lap joint is really SLATS HAVE
EQUAL GAPS
just overlapping rabbets. The rabbets #8 x 1!/2" BETWEEN THEM
are cut to a depth half the thickness of Fh WOOD-
SCREW 51!/4
the pieces (3/8"), and to identical width.
Note: Cut rabbets on the opposite 4%/8
edges of the middle slats, but on just one a. 4%/8 CROSS SECTION
H
edge of each outside slat (Fig. 9a). BACK #/4
EQUAL
SLAT GAPS
ATTACH SLATS. Now the back slats can
be screwed to the cabinet, keeping the
gaps between them equal (Fig. 9a).
#8 x 1!/2"
TOP. The top (I) is an edge-glued Fh WOODSCREW #/8" x #/8" LAPS
blank (Fig. 10). Cut it to finished size to
allow for a 3/4" overhang at the front and
sides (Fig. 10a) but not the back.
Next, rout 1/8" roundovers on the 10 NOTE:
MOUNT
edges of the top, and sand a 1/8" radius on 12#/4
TOP FLUSH a. CROSS SECTION
WITH BACK
the corners. Now the top can be attached 20
using woodscrews driven up from below I TOP
CENTER TOP
(Fig. 10a). I ON WIDTH
OF CASE
TOP B SHELF
DOOR FRAME #/4

The door of the cupboard is a frame and NOTE: #8 x 1#/4"

ROUT !/8" Fh
panel unit. Its construction is the same ROUNDOVER A WOODSCREW
ON ALL EDGES, 1!/2
SIDE
whether you use tin or wood panels. SAND !/8"
DOOR FRAME. To make the door RADIUS ON
CORNERS
frame, start by ripping two door stiles

11 12 NOTE:
TOP/BOTTOM ROUT RABBET
RAIL TO DEPTH IN
K MULTIPLE PASSES
DOOR (SEE DETAIL a)
STILE 49%/8
SEE
J DETAIL b

OUTSIDE
DIRECTION FACE
L OF ROUT DOWN
DOOR
STILE

!/4"
2!/2 a. DOWEL
PIN
L
a. b.
!/2
16#/8
NOTE:
CENTER SQUARE UP
PINS ON 1!/4 #/8" CORNERS WITH
K STILE %/8 RABBET #/8 CHISEL
TOP/BOTTOM BIT
RAIL 2!/2

From Woodsmith Magazine page 6 of 8 ©2004 August Home Publishing

All rights reserved One copy for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
 When the frame of the door is com- 13
plete, the dividers (M) can be built. The KEEPER N
STRIP
purpose of the dividers is to separate —
CENTER #/8"-DIA.
and support — the door panels. TIN PANEL
10" x 12" HOLE ON WIDTH
CENTER DIVIDERS. Start by ripping OF STILE

three blanks to finished width (Fig. 13). M

DIVIDER 1!/4"-DIA.
Then cut them to length to fit between #/4" x 2!/2" - 12!/8" KNOB
the rabbets in the door frame. a. CROSS SECTION
TONGUES. The dividers are held in KEEPER
STRIP
place by a short tongue on each end N
(Fig. 13). I used a dado blade to cut the 30!!/16"
rabbets that form the tongues (Fig. 14). O
NOTE: PUNCHED TIN
DIVIDERS ARE LATCH !/2" WIRE
EDGE RABBETS. Now the dividers can INSTALLED AT P ROD BRAD
fit flush down into the frame. But first, in EQUAL OUTSIDE FLIPPER
INTERVALS FACE DOWN
order to completely support the panels,
two more rabbets are needed on the
MITER
edges of each divider (Fig. 15a). 14 GAUGE 15 FRONT
FACE UP
To cut these rabbets, I again used my
dado blade (Fig. 15). Cut these with the M CUT RABBET
front of the divider facing up. DIVIDER ALONG EDGES
KEEPER STRIPS. Once the dividers are a. CUT RABBET a.
ON END
glued in place, work can begin on the
!/2 !/2
keeper strips. AUX.
The panels are held in place by small FENCE #/8
!/4 #/8
quarter-round keeper strips (N) that are
nailed to the door frame (Fig. 13a). To
make these keeper strips, first rout 1/4"
roundovers on both edges of a blank 16 !/4" ROUNDOVER 17
(Fig. 16). Then set the rip fence 1/4" from
the blade and cut a 3/8"-deep kerf on each a. NOTE: a.
USE PUSH
edge. Finally, to separate a keeper strip STICK !/4
from each edge, run the blank through !/4
the blade face down so the keeper strip
RIP
falls to the waste side (Fig. 17). This pre- FENCE !/4
vents kickback. #/8
KEEPER
TIN PANELS. To make the tin panels, STRIP
tape your pattern to the tin blank, then N
fasten the blank to a hardboard backing
board. Punch the holes by striking an
awl with a hammer. Use softer strikes shallow mortise for each hinge in the A short “flipper” (P) fits in a slot in
for smaller holes, heavier strikes for door stile and the facing strip (Fig. 18a the end of the dowel (Fig. 19). When
larger holes. When each panel is fin- and the Exploded View on page 2). the knob is turned, the flipper will catch
ished, trim it to size and secure it in the DOOR KNOB. Next, I built a knob and the facing strip and prevent the door
door (Fig. 13a). latch assembly. To start, drill a 3/8"-dia. from swinging open (see photo).
MORTISES. After the panels are in hole through the door stile (Fig. 13). FINISH. Now the cupboard can be
place, the door is attached to the case. I Then drill a hole in the wooden knob to stained and finished. Since pine can stain
used three 2"-long hinges and cut a accept a length of dowel (O) (Fig. 19a). unevenly, use a sealer first. ■

18 19 O DOOR LATCH
LAY OUT ASSEMBLY
POSITIONS a. 1!!/16
OF MORTISES P
FOR HINGES

THICKNESS
MORTISE OF FLIPPER !/2
DEPTH EQUALS MATCHES SLOT
THICKNESS OF IN DOWEL
HINGE LEAF
a. 1%/8 !/8
3 NOTE:
USE SPACERS #/8
2 TO CENTER
DOOR IN Before gluing the latch together, make
OPENING
!/2
sure it will rotate. If it doesn’t, lightly
sand the dowel until it does.

From Woodsmith Magazine page 7 of 8 ©2004 August Home Publishing

All rights reserved One copy for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
 Change the look of the cupboard just by using solid wood panels instead of punched tin.
These raised panels can be made entirely on the table saw.

CONSTRUCTION NOTES:
■ To make the wood panels (Q), glue up
four blanks from 3/4"-thick stock.
■ Measure the rabbeted openings in the
back of the door frame. Cut the panels
1/ " less than these measurements to
8
allow for a 1/16" gap all around (Fig. 2).
■ To steady the panels, fasten a tall aux-
iliar y fence to the table saw rip fence
(Fig. 1). Then tilt the table saw blade
10° and raise the blade to 13/8".
■ Cut the bevels in two passes, moving
the rip fence slightly between passes.
The first pass removes most of the waste.
The second “skim” cut cleans up burn
marks or blade swirls and creates the
1/ "-wide shoulder (Fig. 2).
16
Note: Before moving the rip fence
for the second pass, cut the bevels on
all the edges of all your panels.
Cut across the end grain edges first.
Then any chipout will be removed when
the cut is made on the face grain edges.
■ The tilted blade will slightly undercut
the shoulder. To square it up, make a
sanding block with a bevel on one edge
that matches the bevel on the panels.
■ To make a tongue on the edge of the
panel, cut a 3/4"-wide rabbet 1/4" deep on
the back edges (Fig. 2).
■ Now, fasten the panels in the door with
keeper strips (Fig. 2).

MATERIALS LIST
RAISED PANELS
NEW PARTS
Q Door Panels (4) 3/4 x 97/8 - 12
Note: Don’t need tin panels

1 CUT PROFILE
ON ENDS
2 CROSS
SECTION
FIRST
SOLID WOOD
DOOR PANEL
KEEPER #/4" Q
STRIP WIDE
RABBET

!/4
#/4
RAISE BLADE
1#/8" ABOVE TABLE
AND TILT 10°
TALL !/2" WIRE 1#/8 !/16"
AUXILIARY BRAD SHOULDER
FENCE 10° (SQUARE UP If a panel shrinks, an unfinished edge
WITH
BEVEL
SANDING BLOCK) may be exposed. To prevent this, apply
finish before mounting it in the frame.

From Woodsmith Magazine page 8 of 8 ©2004 August Home Publishing

All rights reserved One copy for personal use. Other copies prohibited.