Shanto-Mariam University of Creative Technology

Mid-term Exam
Module Title: Sewing Room Management-2
Module Code: AMT-3208

Submitted To:
Abdul Hai
Assistant Director & Lecturer in AMMT Department,
at Shanto-Mariam University of Creative Technology

Submitted By:
Md: Jobaer Hosen
Id: 192051005
Dept: AMMT
Batch: 36th
Semester: 8th

Date of Submission: 26-12-2021

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 Answer to the question No- 01

The sketch of variation of pant and pocket has given below:

Pockets:

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Pants

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pg. 4
 Answer to the question no:- 02

The discussion regarding Skip stitch, Shading, Shrinkage, uneven dying

and Shining mark fault has given below:-

Shrinkage
Decrease or increase of measurement of garments or fabric during washing and
ironing is called shrinkage fault. If we say in Internationally-
Dimensional stability of garments or Fabric after washing and ironing is called
shrinkage fault.

Shrinkage Types :
There are two types of Fabric Shrinkage :
1. Relaxation Shrinkage
2. Progressive Shrinkage

Relaxation Shrinkage :
This occurs because the fibers and yarns are under tension when the fabrics are
made. Later when the fabric is wet in a tension less condition , relaxation
occurs.
Progressive Shrinkage :
This occurs each time a fabric is laundered. Unlike relaxation shrinkage which
occurs only once, Progressive shrinkage continues and the fabric shrinks a bit
more with each laundering of the major fibers , only wool and viscose rayon are
subject to progressive shrinkage.

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Shading
Different color shade between one part to another part in a garments is called
shading fault. Shade variation or shading is one of the more obvious visual
defects that can be found in fabric. Shade variation in fabric is the variation of
shade (depth of color or hue) from roll to roll or piece to piece that were
intended to match. Shading is a common and big problem for the dyeing
industries. Shade variation may occur selvage to selvage (side to side) or from
one end of the fabric roll to another end (or anywhere in between). Shade
variation can take place during printing or dyeing processes. It is the most
common when a new batch of dyes are mixed when attempting to create or re-
create a desired color.

Reasons for Shading

There are dozens of reasons why shading issues occur:
• Variation in dyeing recipes between batches
• Poor lab-to-bulk correlation
• Dyeing machine issues
• Logistics

Un Even Dying

Different color shade between one part to another part in a fabric then it is
called un even dying. A fabric dyeing that shows variations in shade resulting
from incorrect processing or dyeing methods or from use of faulty materials.

Causes:
• Uneven pretreatment (uneven bleaching & mercerizing)
• Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers
• Quick addition of dyes and chemicals
• Lack of control of dyeing m/c

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Remedies:
• By ensuring even pretreatment
• By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers
• By slow addition of dyes and chemicals
• Proper controlling of dyeing m/c

Shining Mark

During ironing time due to over hitted of iron sometimes reddish mark found
over the seam line this mark is called Shining Mark. After dyeing and making
garments from cloth, some fractional marks are seen on the cloth. These are
color lace but signi. These are called signing marks. After finishing the gray
fabric or making garments from the finished fabric, some Frictional Mark is
seen on the fabric. These marks are colorless but shiny. These are called
Shining Mark. If you take a good look at the image below, you will see the
Shining Mark.

Ways to remove shining mark

• After unloading the fabric from the machine after finishing the dyeing
process of the fabric, it is necessary to wash the fabric thoroughly as soon as
possible to remove the Un-Fixed Dyes.
• Tissue should be used when folding the fabric.
• The fabric should be made Neutral by Acid Wash.
• Use Anti-Foam when using Cationic Softener.
• The problem can be solved temporarily by soaking the shining mark in water
for a while and then washing and drying it.

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 Answer to the question no:- 03

Measuring procedure of pant has given below:

Waist band:
The circumference area from waist band button to button hole its is called waist
band measurement.

Front rise:
In the front side waist band bottom to crotch point, it is called front rise.

Back Rise:
In the back side of pant measure from waist band bottom to crotch point it is
called back rise.

Out seam:
Out seam measuring in 2 way
1. Including waist band to bottom of pant
2. Excluding waist band to bottom of the pant.

Hips / Seat
Measure around the fullest part of your hips and buttocks.

Trouser Waist
1. Measure around your waist at the level where you would normally wear your
pants (Right above where your belt would be).
2. With the tape measure snug around your waist, relax, and take the
measurement.

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3. Don't be alarmed if this measurement seems larger than expected; off-the-
rack pants are normally labeled as being smaller than what they really are.
4. Double check this measurement.

Inseam
1. Measure from the lowest part of your crotch area to the point where you
want the pants to stop.
2. Make sure the tape is tight along the inside of your leg, that you are standing
straight, and then measure. No shoes please!

Outseam
1. Measure from the top of your pant’s waistband, along the outside of your
leg, to the point down your leg where you want your pants to stop.
2. Make sure the tape is tight, that you are standing straight, and then measure.
No shoes please!

Thigh Drop
1. Measure the length from the top of your inseam to the point of your thigh at
its widest point.
2. You need measure only one side.

Thigh
1. Measure around your thigh at its widest point.
2. You need measure only one side.

Knee Drop
1. Measure the length from the top of your inseam to the point of the center of
your knee.

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2. You need measure only one side.

Knee
1. Measure around your knee at its widest point.
2. You need only measure one side.

Calf Drop
1. Measure the length from the top of your inseam to the point of the widest
part of your calf.
2. You need to only measure one leg.

Calf
1. Measure around your calf at its widest point.
2. You need to only measure one leg.

Crotch
1. Measure from the front top of the pant's waistband to the back top of the
pant's waistband.

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 Answer to the question No:- 04

Stitch:
Distance from one locking to another locking or looping its called Stitch. Stitch
is very important during manufacturing a garment. Stitch can be defined as, one
unit of conformation resulting from one or more strands or loops of thread by
intra-looping, inter-looping, and interlacing. The stitch quality is measured with
stitch size, stitch length, width, depth, tension, sequence, elongation, elasticity,
resilience, fabric distortion, yarn severance, and abrasive strength. There are six
types of stitch, which are deeply discussed in this article.

Different Types of Stitch Used in Garments:

There are different types of stitch used in garments; those are mentioned in the
following:
1. (Chain Stitch),
2. (Hand Stitch),
3. (Lock Stitch),
4. (Multi Thread Stitch)
5. (Over Edge Stitch),
6. (Covering Chain Stitch).

(Chain Stitch):
Class-100 is named chain stitch, which is produced by one or more needle
threads and is characterized by interloping. In a chain stitch, one needle thread
is passed through the fabric, form a needle loop, and is secured by the next loop
formed by the same thread. It should be noted that the chain stitch is elastic and
thicker than the lock stitch and can easily be raveled, where particular care is
required to prevent run back from the last stitch.

 (Hand Stitch):
Class-200 is named as hand stitch which is produced from a single thread. This
single thread is passed through the fabric from one side to another and the stitch
is secured by the single line of thread passing in and out of the garment.

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(Hand Stitch) has four types- running basting, backstitch, diagonal basting, and
buttonhole stitch. These types of stitches are used for stitching costly dresses,
jackets, and sample dresses.

(Lock Stitch):
Class-300 is named as lock stitch which is produced with two or more groups of
threads and two threads are joined by interlacing. Here, loops of one group are
passed through the fabric and are secured by the thread of the second group,
where one group is referred to as needle thread and the other as bobbin thread.
Class-300 (Lock Stitch) has enough strength and the same appearance on both
sides.
(Lock Stitch) has four types- 301. 304, 308, and 309. These types of stitch are
used for stitching underwear, most types, and apparel, and decorative purposes.

(Multi Thread Stitch):

Class-400 is named as multi-thread stitch which is formed with two or more
groups of threads. Here, loops of one group of thread are passed through the
fabric and are secured by interlacing and interloping with loops of another
group. Among the two groups, one group is called needle thread, and another
group is called looper thread.
Class-400 (Multi Thread Stitch) has an appearance of a lock stitch on the top
but has a double chain effect formed by a looper thread on the under-side.
Class-400 (Multi Thread Stitch) has three types- 401, 404, and 406. These types
of stitches are used for setting elastic in waistbands and decorative stitching on
belts.

(Over Edge Stitch):

Class-500 is named as an overedge stitch which is formed with one or more
groups of threads. In Class-500 (Over Edge Stitch), one group of threads passes
around the edge of the fabric so that no thread from the fabric can come out.
The most used stitch of this type have one or two needle threads and one or two
looper threads and thus forms a narrow band of stitching along the edge of the
fabric.

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Class-500 (Over Edge Stitch) has three types- 503, 504, and 512. This type of
stitch is used for edge neatening of knitted fabrics, where extensibility of
stitches is important, also used for sportswear and dancewear garments.

(Covering Chain Stitch):

Class-600 is named as covering chain stitch which is produced with three
groups of threads. Here, threads of two groups can be seen from either side. In
class-600 (Covering Chain Stitch), the first group of the thread is called needle
thread, the second group is called a top cover thread, and the third group is
called a bottom cover thread.
(Covering Chain Stitch) is very complex and up to 9 threads can be used in
producing these types of stitch.
Class-600 (Covering Chain Stitch) has three types- 602, 605, and 607. These
types of stitches are used for knits, lingerie, binding elastics, decoration, etc.

Seam:
When 2 or more plies of fabric join together by niddle thread then the joining
line is called Seam.
A seam is the combination of the stitch which makes a line to join two plies of
fabric. The seam is used not only for functional purposes but also for decorative
purposes. Types of Seam is totally depended on buyer requirements.

There are eight types of seam used in apparel manufacturing. Those are
mentioned in the following:
1. Superimposed seam,
2. Lapped seam,
3. Bound seam,
4. Flat seam,
5. Ornamental seam,
6. Edge neatening seam,
7. Applied seam
8. Others seam

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Superimposed seam:
The superimposed seam is the most common method of seaming in garments
manufacturing. This seam is formed by superimposing the edge of one piece of
material on another. Superimposed seam has various types which are- plain
seam, French seams, and Double machine seam. The superimposed seam is
placed on the top side of the garments. This type of seam is used in collar, cuff
sewing, cuff top-stitching, collar band attach sewing and top stitching, side
seam and sleeve attach with safety-sticker.

Lapped seam:
The lapped seam is formed by lapping two pieces of fabric. This type of seam is
not common in clothing because it creates problems with raw edges where one
ply of fabric fold under itself for a finished edge. The lapped seam is used in the
main seaming of denim jackets, side seam and inseam of jeans, side seams of
shirts, joining lace fabric to another fabric, attaching patch pockets, and in
various decorative finishing.

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Bound seam:
The bound seam is consists of edges of fabrics that are bound by a stripe of
fabric. This type of seam is made to the finish and edge of a garment. The
bound seam is used in sewing necklines, sleeves hems, inside waistbands of
trousers and pants, finishing seams on unlined jackets and coats.

Flat-seam:
Flat seams are referred to as flat seams because the fabric edges do not overlap.
This type of seam is constructed by having two pieces of fabric meet precisely
at their edges. A cover stitch is used here to sew the two pieces of fabric
together. This type of stitch has multiple needles and creates a stitch
perpendicular to the seam line, which creates a flat seam. The plain seam is flat.
The flat seam is used in close-fitting garments where the seam allowance may
put pressure on the body, high-stretch fabrics athletic apparel, shapewear,
undergarments, lingerie, swimwear, thermal underwear, sweatshirts with side
panels, or with raglan sleeves, eliminating bulk at seams, seaming pelts.

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Ornamental seam:
The ornamental seam is made using machines with zigzag capability, which is
used on a plain seam on woven or knit fabric. The main using purpose of this
seam is for decorative sewing where single or multiple rows of stitches are sewn
through one or more layers of fabric. These several layers can be folds of the
same fabric.

Edge neatening seam:

Stitching work made on the fabric edges for neatening. This type of seam is
produced with one piece of the component. Edge neatening seam has one
limited edge on one end. This type of seam is constructed with one or two plies
of fabric used to finish the edge of a garment or item. Edge neatening seam has
three finishing types. Firstly- ensures a folded edge to the shell fabric by
stitching either on the face or back. Secondly- stitching is used at the edge or to
cover the raw edges, and may or may not be folded. Thirdly- applies a binding
on a single ply of a seam allowance to finish raw edges.

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Applied seam
This type of seam is related to the addition of separate items to the edge of a
garment part. The seam is produced with a minimum of two pieces of
component, where one component is limited on one end, and the other narrow
one is limited on both ends.

Others seam
Here, only one piece of the component involved in the construction of the seam,
here stitches is applied on its edges. This type of seam is produced with a
minimum of one piece of the component with a limited edge on two ends. This
class is commonly used for waist belts and belt loops.

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