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HDR - Church
HDR - Church
In picture 3 you see how the original HDR image looks like in Photoshop. Let's examine
it a little and set some goals. There are obviously several problems: yellow cast,
perspective distortion, some barrel distortion, and distracting elements on the left side.
My goal is to fix all these and create a symmetrical and simple high contrast photo with
completely black sky.
Picture 3. The original unprocessed HDR image in Photoshop.
Basic Clean Up
First, let's do some basic clean up to fix some problem areas. I adjusted the exposure
slider (in the bottom of the HDR image) about +4EV to see the problem areas in the sky.
My goal is to have completely black sky. If you look at the original image on the left
(picture 4), you see several lens reflections and a few stars. I use Clone Stamp Tool
and other copying methods to get rid of these (see the picture on the right). After clean
up there are still some large faded lens reflections in the sky but these will be darkened
to pure black later in the tone mapping process.
Picture 4. Basic clean up in Photoshop.
Perspective Correction
The next step is perspective correction. First I turn Grid on (View > Show > Grid) to be
my guide. Then I use Perspective Tool (Edit > Transform > Perspective) to fix the
perspective distortion. After that I notice that there is unfortunately some barrel
distortion. Barrel distortion is somewhat tricky to fix but doable with careful use of the
Warp Tool (Edit > Transform > Warp). To keep the maximum image quality, It's best to
commit all transform operations at once. In picture 5 you see the image after
perspective correction.
Picture 5. The perspective is corrected.
There are some distracting elements in the lower left corner of picture 5. Next I'll use
Clone Stamp Tool and other copying methods to fix that area. Now the photo is cleaner
and the effect of symmetry is stronger (picture 6).
Picture 6. Symmetrical and simple.
Now is the time to remove the yellow / red cast from the HDR photo. I do that by
applying Hue / Saturation adjustment filter. I decrease the saturation of reds and yellows
(picture 7).
Picture 7. Yellow cast has been removed with the Hue / Saturation tool.
There are some very dark areas (top of the domes and stairs) and some very bright
areas (light poles). I can predict that these are going to problems in the tone mapping
process. For example, in the tone mapping process, when I'd be adjusting the toning
curve to darken the sky, I'd spoil the domes and the stairs. Similarly when I'd be
brightening the church, I'd spoil the lights. The solution to my problem is local exposure
adjustment that can be done manually:
More Light to Domes and Stairs
I apply Exposure (+1,5) adjustment layer to make the domes and stairs bright
enough
I fill the mask of the adjustment layer with black color (to remove the effect from
the whole image)
I choose white color and paint the mask on areas I want to be brighter (domes
and stairs)
Less Light to Light Poles
I apply Exposure (-3) adjustment layer to make the lights dimmer
I fill the mask of the adjustment layer with black color (to remove the effect from
the whole image)
I choose white color and paint the mask on areas I want to be darker (domes and
stairs)
In picture 8 you can see the image after exposure adjustments. The domes and stairs
are brighter and the lights are dimmer. This is the beauty of properly made HDR photos.
I can apply +1.5 exposure adjustment to dark areas without revealing any noise!
(One tone mapping method is to expose the whole image manually and then just do the
actual tone mapping with Exposure and Gamma method. However, I won't need more
manual exposure control with my example photo.)
Picture 8. Domes and stairs are made brighter and lights are made dimmer.
Tone Mapping
Now the image is ready for tone mapping. I did a lot of Photoshop processing before the
actual tone mapping. The reason is the fact that when working on HDR photo, one can
execute radical color correction operations without losing any information (because of
the high dynamic range). I recommend doing all color correction before tone mapping
and also to save the image just before tone mapping.
In Photoshop, the tone mapping process is started by converting the image mode to 8-
bit or 16-bit:
I click: Image > Mode > 16 Bits/Channel. This opens Photoshop's HDR
Conversion tool.
There are four different tone mapping methods available in Photoshop. I choose
Local Adaptation method because that's the only one that let's me manually adjust
the toning curve (I click on the small arrow to see the toning curve).
In picture 9 you see the HDR image with the default settings of Local Adaptation
method.
Picture 9. The default settings of local adaptation.
Take a look at picture 10. On the left you see the default toning curve which
produces picture 9 and on the right you see adjusted toning curve that
produces picture 11. How to modify the toning curve? Well let's inspect the histogram
for a while. The steep mountain on the left represents the pixels of the sky and the
mountains in the middle represents the pixels of the church. I want to achieve two
things: black sky and good contrast to the church. The curve on the right does just that.
All the pixels on the left side of the left control point become completely black. The right
control point is moved to the left just where the "mountains" start. This means that the
brightest pixels of the HDR photo will become almost white. These two adjustments also
make the curve really steep which equals to high contrast.
Picture 10. On the left: The default toning curve. On the right: Toning curve adjusted for
high contrast.
In picture 11 you see the the tone mapped image. Notice that at this stage the photo
isn't an HDR image anymore. It's just a 16-bit image.
Picture 11. 16-bit image after Photoshop HDR conversion.
Sharpening
The last thing to do is sharpening. I convert the image to a smart object and apply
Smart Sharpen filter to it. Inpicture 12 you see the final sharpened photo.
Picture 12. The Final sharpened photo.