Lesson 8

PREPARATION AND USES OF TRUE BIAS, FACING AND BINDING

Introduction
The bias is spoken of in hushed, reverential terms in the fashion world. Only
a few designers ever master the bias cut, and very few home sewers dare to
take the plunge. But by choosing a stable fabric and a simple pattern (a
combination I call my “bias training wheels”), and by following a few step-
by-step guidelines, you can be assured of success with bias-cut garments.
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Learning Outcomes
At the end of this lesson, you are expected to:
Describe TRUE BIAS and its Uses on clothing construction.
List and discuss different types of facing

Activity
Using an arrow construct the following words which will describe your subject
write your answer on the space provided.
True bias, neckline, sleeves, bodice, hem,. Seam, collar
Analysis:
1. Describe how you constructed your answer on your activity

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2. How would you relate your answer to your lesson preparation and uses of
true bias, facing and binding.
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Abstraction
TRUE BIAS A true bias falls on a diagonal line halfway between two grain
lines-lengthwise and crosswise grains at an angles 450 (Fig. A). It has the
maximum elasticity or in other words it stretches more than any other
direction on cloth. Uses of true bias: True bias is used to finish raw edges.
It is useful especially in finishing curved edges such as necklines,
sleeveless armholes and scallops. A straight piece of material attached to
a curve will look bulky and untidy. The elasticity of bias permits it to stretch or contract
and thus takes the shape of any curved edge giving it a flat smooth finish. Bias strips
can be applied as facings and bindings. In striped, checked or contrasting colored
material it gives a decorative finish when used as a binding or facing applied on the right
side of the garment. Bias is also used to finish raw edges of plain seams as well as
seams which join collar to neckline, cuffs to sleeves etc. Fabrics or bound buttons holes,
piped seams and bias tubing are made using bias strips. Bias tubing is useful for
making small motifs as trimming for dresses and for preparing fabric loops which can be
used decoratively in the place of buttonholes
each strip is a true bias (Fig.A1). It is very essential that the width of the bias strips are
even all through its length, otherwise joining the strips would not only be difficult but
would not result in a smooth, straight strip. Never try to make the width equal after the
strips have been cut as it will continue to be irregular. If the grain lines cannot be clearly
seen, mark the lines with chalk first. Joining bias strips (Fig. B): Place
the two strips to be joined right sides facing and the edges of the cut
ends coinciding. The strips will now be at right angles to each other.
Shift the top strip ¼″ (inch) beyond the other so that the sharp points
are the ends of the

strips project on either side as in Fig. B Stitch a ¼″ (inch) seam joining

the points where the sides of the two strips intersect (from A to B in
Fig. B). Press the seam open and trim the seam projections showing
on right side (Fig. C)

FACING

Facing is a small piece of fabric, separate or a part of the fabric itself, used to finish the fabric edge.
Facing is used to provide a neat finish to the raw edges in a garment and to support the shape of
neckline, armholes, collars, etc. They are also used in other sewing like quilts and home décor items like
curtain hems. They can also be used as a decoration by applying it from the inside of a garment, along
with embroidery and other embellishments on it.

The different types of facings are:

 Applied Facing
 Decorative Facing
 Extended Facing
 An all-in -one Facing

Applied facing:
There are two types of applied facing:

1. Shaped facing
2. Bias facing.
BINDING
A binding is a decorative finish of varying width that
encases an edge.
There are two basic types of binding:
1. Straight binding and
2. Bias binding
On the edge to be bound, make a line of staystitching
1/8″ away from the cutting line.
Straight binding
A binding that is cut in strips along the grain of a piece of fabric.
There are two types of Straight Bindings: Straight grain binding and Cross grain binding
Straight grain binding is binding that is cut in strips along the grain of a piece of fabric
parallel to the selvedge. Straight grain binding that is cut along the length of the fabric is
very stable and has almost no “give”. To make straight grain binding, cut your fabric
strips parallel from the selvedge.
Cross grain binding is also cut in strips along the grain but it is cut from selvedge to
selvedge. Cross grain binding has a little more flexibility. To make cross grain binding,
cut your fabric strips perpendicular to the selvedge.
Bias binding
A bias strip of material is used to enclose a raw edge. It is used to finish
and strengthen raw edges and to add a decorative trim to a garment. It
shows both on the right and wrong sides. It is used to finish necklines,
armholes, sleeve edges, front closings, collars, cuffs and seams. It can
be adapted equally well to straight, curved, gathered and irregular edges
(like scallops). When finished, bias binding should have uniform width
(less than ¼ ″) and should lie flat and smooth without any stitches showing on the right
side of the garment. Binding may be prepared or may be bought as commercial bias
binding
There are two types of Bias bindings:
1. Single binding
2. Double binding (or French binding)
Application
Preparation and uses of true bias –facings and bindings
Cloth samples to be made of the following:
Marking, cutting and joining of bias strips [sample size: length of joined bias strip should
be 6ʺ, width 1 ½ ʺ]
Bindings: Single, French and readymade [sample size: 6ʺX 6ʺ for each binding]
Binding an inward and outward curve [sample size: 6ʺ X 6ʺ]
Facing: bias, shaped and decorative facing [sample size: 6ʺ X 6ʺ for each facing]
Preparation and uses of true bias- facings and bindings

Point system: See rubrics

CLOSURE
W.H.E.W. We Have Ended Well
Well done! You have just finished Lesson 8.