11/2019 Download pattern

128 Dress for Girls dddd

Height 68, 74, 80, 86, 92, 98 cm Cutting Out Pattern layout
1 front on a fold 1x
FABRIC FOLD Fabric
STOFFBRUCH 140 cm
Stoff 140 cm 55
55”“ 68 - 98
2 back 2x
3 back fastening band 2x 6
4 front sleeve 2x 1
5 back sleeve 2x
6 front facing on a fold 1x 5
7 back facing 2x 7
Interfacing Iron on facings and on fas- 4
tening band pieces (wrong fabric side). 2
Pattern Overview Construction
3
n Fold front on fabric fold line, right
SELVAGES
WEBKANTEN
side facing in. Pin pleat lines together
Pattern pieces 1 to 7 from neckline to pleat arrow, stitch. Cut from a double layer of fabric, right
Size 68  22222 Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. side facing in.
Size 74  33333 Press pleat so that centre front (= fabric
Size 80  44444 fold) lies on pleat seam. Do not press
Size 86  55 pleat folds below pleat seam.
Size 92  66666 n Stitch side seams, seam number 2.
Size 98  77777 Neaten seam allowances together and
press onto back.
n  Stitch sleeve seams, seam numbers 3
and 6. Neaten allowances together,
press to one side.
n  Stitch sleeves to front and back piec-
es, seam numbers 4 and 5. Neaten seam
allowances together and press toward
sleeves from neckline to beginning of
curve.
n  Stitch shoulder seams of facings, seam
number 7. Press allowances open.
Fabric & Notions n Pin facing right sides together with
edge of neckline, stitch. Trim seam al-
Recommended fabrics: Fabrics with some
lowances, clip curves at several intervals.
body made of cotton or blends.
Stitch facing to allowances, see “Helpful
Original fabric: Cotton fabric
Hint” 2 in Glossary. Turn facing to in-
Fabric Requirements side. Press edge. Neaten inside facing
edge and sew on at allowances of sleeve
Size 68 74 80 86 92 98
seams by hand. Baste facing ends on un-
Fab. width cm derside of back pieces.
ins Fabric Requirements  (Meter / yds)
Fabric 140 0.85 0.90 0.95 1.00 n Neaten hem and sleeve hem allow-
55 ⅞ 1 1 1 ances, press to inside. Work from outside
of garment to stitch hems 2.5 cm (1 inch)
Notions: Vilene/Pellon G 710. 5 hammer- wide.
on snap fasteners. n Fold fastening band pieces in half
Cutting Fabric Pieces lengthwise and press, right side facing
Paper Pattern Pieces out. Unfold bands again. Stitch one
Trace the pattern pieces from the pat- edge of each band right sides together
tern sheet. Follow lines and details for with back edges, seam number 1, seam
style 128. The pleat arrow marked on allowance of band overhangs at top and
piece 1 is for size 68. Remark the arrow bottom. Press seam allowances onto
for the other sizes according to the size bands. Press allowance at other long
lines. The markings for the snap fasten- edge of band to inside. Fold ends right
ers on piece 3 are for size 68. Move the side facing in on pressed crease. Stitch
top snap up and the bottom snap down across ends. Trim seam allowances, trim
for the other sizes according to the size corners at an angle. Turn bands, press.
lines. Space the other snap fasteners Baste inside edge of band over joining
evenly in between. Pin the pattern piec- seam. Work from outside of garment to
es to the fabric as shown in the pattern stitch bands close to edges, catching in-
layout. side edge.
Seam and hem allowances n  Attach top halves of snaps centred on
Seams and edges 1.5 cm (5/8 in), hem and left fastening band as marked. Attach
sleeve hems 3 cm (11/4 ins). bottom halves of snaps on right band.

Copyright 2019 by Verlag GmbH & Co. KG Aenne Burda, Hubert Burda-Platz 2, D-77652 Offenburg.
All models, pattern pieces and drawings are copyrighted, commercial use is prohibited. The publisher shall not be liable for damages caused by
improper handling of the eut material, improper execution of the tips and instructions, or improper use of the models are emerging.
PAPER PATTERN CUTTING OUT
Key to Symbols Fabric requirements
The fabric requirements are based on
the fabric we used for our original de-
Joining line signs. These amounts will change if you
Large pattern pieces which use a fabric of a different width.
cannot be extend­
ed The fabric pattern determines whether
in a straight line, are all pieces must be cut in the ­same direc-
drawn on the pattern tion or if some can be reversed.
sheet in two pieces. These
pieces must to glued to­
gether after they have
Pattern layout
been traced. A double line indicates the
attachment line. There are also symbols The pattern layout shows how to best
place the pattern pieces on our original
(small triangles) that must be matched.
fabric. Fold the fabric double, with the
right side facing in.
When cutting from a single layer of
fab­ric, the right side should face up.
Seam numbers Pattern pieces which are shown on the
show where pieces layout with broken outlines should be
are to be sewn to­
pinned to the fabric face down (i.e.
gether.
print­ed side facing down).
Match the same seam
Grey shaded areas show which pieces
numbers.
are to be interfaced.
Armhole markings
are small notches
on the sleeve and
front armhole edge.
They must meet
when the sleeve is
set in.
Seam and hem allowances
Seam marks are not included on Burda Style sewing
are found on long patterns. Add 1–2 cm (⅜ – ¾ in) for
seams. Match the seams and 2–5 cm (¾ – 2 ins) for hems.
small symbols to
one another.
Marking lines
Transfer the pattern piece lines to the
wrong side of your fabric with Burda
Style dressmaker‘s carbon paper.
Slit mark
This mark indicates the
Hand-baste along the lines (e.g. for
­pockets or centre front) to make them
­beginning/end of a slit, e.g. visible on the right side of the fabric.
at side slits, pocket openings
or at zip slits.
Direction of nap
Some fabrics have a pile, e.g. velvet,
corduroy, or velours. The pile fibers of
Pleat symbol the fabric lie in a certain direction.
Fold the pleat in the
Determine the direction of the nap by
direction of the arrow. running your hand over the fabric –
with the nap will smooth pile fibers
down and against the nap will raise the
fibers.
The following symbols will only be The pattern pieces cut from fabric with
found on the pattern overview. On the a nap must all lie in the same direction.
pattern sheet, the words are written. The direction of the nap is indicated on
the pattern layout.
Gather
Ease
Stretch Directional prints
If your fabric has a directional print,
the pattern pieces must all be pinned
to the fabric so that the lower edges lie
Presser foot
in the same direction. When working
is the symbol for seams and with checks, widthwise stripes or a
topstitching lines. widthwise print, make sure that the
pattern lines match at vertical seams.
Scissors
Interfacing (Vilene/Pellon)
indicate edges or lines
to be cut or slashed Interfacing can be of synthetic or na­tural
fibres. There are several kinds of Inter-
facing available, to suit a variety of
­fabrics.
Position of fastener Interfacing gives body to pieces which
for buttonholes, need to hold their shape.
buttons, eyelets The sewing instructions specify the
­required Interfacing.
Download Burda, instructions 128 burda style 11/2019
SEWING TERMS
Grain line Baste / Stitch / Topstitch
The grain line is the lengthwise direc- To baste means to sew with long
tion of the fabric. The words “grain ­stitches by hand. To stitch is to use a
line“ are printed along a straight line sewing machine. Topstitching means
­
or an edge or marked by an ­arrow on stitching by machine on the right fabric
the paper pattern ­piece. When laying side, along a seam or an edge. Top­
the pattern pieces on the fab­ric, the stitching may be just decorative or may
grain line or arrow must lie parallel to serve to hold down seam allowances.
the fabric selvages.
Fabric fold Ease / Gather
The fold edge of a double layer of To ease means to match a longer seam
fabric is called the fabric fold. The
­ line to a shorter seam line when sewing
straight edge of a pattern piece which them together (for shaping).
should lie on this fold edge is marked To gather means to shorten a fabric ­piece
(see the broken line on the cutting lay- along a seam line. To do this, machine
out). When cutting fabric pieces, this baste along the longer edge, then hold
edge does not need a seam allow­ance the bobbin threads and gather the
since t­ here is no seam here. ­fabric along the threads, to the desired
length.
Neaten an edge
Right and wrong fabric sides
Zigzag stitch along the edge of the
The right side of a fabric is the “better“
­seam allow­ance to prevent the edge
side. The colours on the right side are
from fraying. Test stitch on a scrap first
brighter. This side will be on the out-
to check stitch length and width. Alter-
natively, the fabric edge can be finished side of your garment. The wrong side is
with a serger (overlock machine). duller and will be on the inside.
Trim Right sides together/facing
The edges of seam allowances which lie Lay one fabric piece on another with
together are trimmed close to the stitched with right fabric side of the one lying
seam. This reduces the bulk of the facing the right side of the other. The
allow­ances on a faced edge (e. g. on wrong sides will be on the outside.
pockets or collar) and prevents the
­allowances from appearing as a bump
on the right side of the fabric. To face
This means sewing two p ­ ieces of fabric
Facing together and then turning them right
is a piece of fabric used to finish edges side out so that the seam allow­ances are
and openings. It is cut the same shape enclosed. The seam lies along the edge
as the edge to be finished. This is why and may be topstitched.
there is usually no pattern ­piece for the
facing. Instead it is drawn on the pat-
tern piece for the front, for ex­ample,
and must be traced from there.
HELPFUL HINT
Understitching a facing 2
On edges which are faced with a facing,
a facing strip, a lining or a pocket piece
and which are not topstitched later, it is
a good idea to understitch the facing,
facing strip or lining in place. This en-
sures that these edges remain neat and
lie flat after washing and prevents the
facing, facing strip or lining from show-
ing on the outside of the garment. To
understitch, press the facing, facing strip
or lining over the allowances, after hav-
ing trimmed them. Working from the
outer side, stitch the facing, facing strip
or lining to the allowances, close to the
attachment seam. This stitching will lat-
er only be visible on the inside of the fin-
ished garment.
TIP
Take the paper pattern with you when buying fabric­. Fabrics
with lengthwise or widthwise stripes, with checks/plaid or a
border print must be taken into account when placing the pattern piec-
es on the f­abric to cut the fabric pieces. Depending on the size of the
­pattern repeats, you may require more or less fabric than given. Our cal-
culations are based on the original fabric.