National level study

Patola sarees
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History
The name patola is derived from the Sanskrit word ‘pattakulla', and is the plural form of
the word patolu. After the decline of the Solanki Empire, the Salvis found a rich trade in
Gujarat. Patola saris quickly became a sign of social status among Gujarati women,
especially as part of their wedding trousseau. It is believed that 700 silk weavers from
the Salvi caste of Karnataka and Maharashtra moved to Gujarat in the 12th century to
acquire the patronage of the Solanki Rajputs, the ruling class of Gujarat and parts of
Rajasthan at that time

Tools & Raw material:

• Slant Loom: Slant Loom is used to interlace the warp and weft yarns.
• Bamboo Poles (Kamthi): Bamboo poles are used to fasten the warp beam at the
further end of the loom.
• Wooden Sword or Beater (Vi): It is use to held the interlaced yarns together near the
cloth beam.
• Cloth Beam (tor): The woven fabric rolled on to the beam on the loom.
• Shuttle (Nali): Shuttle is use to insert the weft thread into the loom.
• Yarn Winder (Parita): Yarn winder is use to wind the yarn to the spindle.
• Vessels for Dyeing: Vessels are used to apply the color on the silk yarn.
• Quill like Iron Needles: It is use to adjust the slight shifting yarns and ensure perfect
color alignment.

Process:
Patolas are manufactured by the resist-dyeing process using the warp and weft
technique. A sword-shaped stick made out of rosewood, called vi, is used for adjusting
the yarns. The first step involves tying of the yarn with cotton threads according to the
pattern.  The yarn undergoes multiple cycles of tying and dyeing, following a specific
order of colours.
Problems:
 It takes 3 people about four to seven months to weave a patola
 It is expensive to weave
 It requires extreme precision and patience
 No of patola weavers are reducing
 Covid 19 and recent India China standoff has impacted Patola sarees
Price of Patola sarees: 1,50,000- 5,50,000 INR
Reference
https://30stades.com/2020/09/09/how-covid-19-and-india-china-border-tensions-
have-changed-900-year-old-patan-patola-weaving/
https://www.vogue.in/content/gujarati-patola-sarees-history-significance-weaving-
process
https://www.dsource.in/resource/patola-saree-weaving-patan/making-process