STUDY ON DYEING OFCOTTON FABRIC WITH DIRECT DYE AND FINISHING

BY CITRIC ACID

TITLE; STUDY ON DYEING OF COTTON FABRIC WITH

DIRECT DYE AND FINISHING WITH CITRIC ACID

WOLLO UNIVERSITY

1. CHALACHEW ABEW……………..WOUR/0449/08

2. BALEW GETO……………………..WOUR/0339/08

3. DAGIM TMESGEN…………………WOUR/0459/08

4. ELENI GUADU………………………WOUR/0554/08

Kombolcha Institute of Technology for Textile Engineering

Wollo University

Wollo

2013 E.C
 STUDY ON DYEING OFCOTTON FABRIC WITH DIRECT DYE AND FINISHING
BY CITRIC ACID

TITLE; STUDY ON DYEING OF COTTON FABRIC WITH DIRECT

DYE AND FINISHING BY CITRIC ACID

Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirement for the Degree of

Bachelor of Science in Textile Engineering

Prepared by ID NO

CHALACHEW ABEW…………….WOUR/0449/08

BALEW GETO……………………..WOUR/0339/08

DAGIM TMESGEN…………………WOUR/0459/08

ELENI GUADU………………………WOUR/0554/08

Under the guidance of Tewodros Agaize

Kombolcha Institute of Technology

Wollo University

Wollo

December 2020 G.C

 STUDY ON DYEING OFCOTTON FABRIC WITH DIRECT DYE AND FINISHING
BY CITRIC ACID

DECLARATION OF ORIGINALITY

We here by certify that we are the sole authors of this thesis and that no part of this thesis has
been published or submitted for publication. We certify that, to the best of the knowledge, this
thesis does not infringe upon anyone’s copyright nor violate any proprietary rights and that of
any ideas, techniques, quotations, or any other material from the work of other people included
in this thesis, published or otherwise, are fully acknowledged in accordance with the standard
referencing practices. Furthermore, to the extent that we have included copyrighted material that
surpasses the bounds of fair dealing within the meaning of the Copyright Act. We declare that
this is a true copy of our thesis, including any final revisions.

Chalachew Abew _____________________

Balew Geto ____________________

Dagim Tmesgen ______________

Eleni Guadu ________________

Students Signature

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 STUDY ON DYEING OFCOTTON FABRIC WITH DIRECT DYE AND FINISHING
BY CITRIC ACID

APPROVAL BY ADVISOR

To the best of knowledge and as understood by the students in the Research Integrity and
Copyright Disclaimer, this thesis/project adheres to the provisions of guidelines, policies and
legislations of the Kombolcha Institute of Technology during their research work and use of
copyrighted material. The thesis is complete and can be presented to the thesis evaluation
committee or juries.

____________________ ____________ _________

Advisor’s Name Signature Date

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BY CITRIC ACID

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We are greatly indebted to our teacher Tewodros Agazie (Dean, School of Textile engineering &
Head of Textile Engineering), for giving us permission to do this project work. We would like to
express our deepest sense of gratitude to our course teacher Tewodros Agazie for his continuous
advice, encouragement and constant guidance to make this project possible. We are especially
thankful to our supervising teacher Tewodros for her continuous advice, encouragement and
constant guidance to make this project possible. We are also especially thankful to our
Laboratory Demonstrator Teacher in Wet Processing Technology Lab and Laboratory
Demonstrator in Testing and Quality Control Lab for their constant support and technical help
during the work. We are also thankful to those respected faculty members of Textile Engineering
Department who advised us during the project work

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BY CITRIC ACID

List of figure

Figure 1: direct dye powders...................................................................................................................... 2

Figure 2: preparation and dilution of stock solution..............................................................................13
Figure 3: dyeing of cotton fabric.............................................................................................................. 14
Figure 4: color strength test machines..................................................................................................... 22
Figure 5: line test machine....................................................................................................................... 23
Figure 6: rubbing fastness test machine.................................................................................................. 24
Figure 7: after finishing 3% shade fabric................................................................................................27
Figure 8: after finishing 3% shade fabric................................................................................................28
Figure 9: after finishing 3% shade........................................................................................................... 29

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BY CITRIC ACID

List of table

Table 1: The sample parameter of half bleaching cotton fabric (yarn count 34*34) with direct dye dyeing
......................................................................................................................................................................12
Table 2. color strength (k/S) at 540 nm before and after finishing fabric................................................... 25
Table 3:percent of reflectance......................................................................................................................26
Table 4: washing fastness............................................................................................................................ 27
Table 5:rubbing fastness test........................................................................................................................28

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 STUDY ON DYEING OFCOTTON FABRIC WITH DIRECT DYE AND FINISHING
BY CITRIC ACID

ABSTRACT

This thesis is about to study dyeing of cotton fabric with direct dye and finishing by citric acid.
Before starting the process of dyeing of cotton fabric several types of pretreatment like dyeing,
finishing were done to accelerate the dyeing process like helps in the way of direct dyeing by
ensuring uniform and effective absorption of dyes and also developed the quality of fabric. By
changing the concentration of dyes or shade percentage we have observed the effect of color
strength, fastness properties on cotton fabric. In our thesis work we have used 6 types of shade %
among them. The main approach of our thesis is to notice the effect of finishing with citric acid.
For this purpose we have used three types of citric acid concentration (3%, 5% and 8%) and each
and every time we have noticed different impacts on the shade of the fabric. In our findings some
important factors were significant changes of color and pick up percentage after treated with
citric acid of various concentrations.

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BY CITRIC ACID

Contents
CHAPTER ONE............................................................................................................................................ 1

INTRODUCTION......................................................................................................................................... 1

1.1. Background......................................................................................................................................... 1

1.2. Statement of the problem.................................................................................................................... 3

1.3. Objectives........................................................................................................................................... 3

1.3.1. General objective......................................................................................................................... 3

1.3.2. Specific Objective........................................................................................................................3

1.4. BENFIT AND BENFICIARY............................................................................................................3

1.4.1 Benefits............................................................................................................................................. 3

1.4.2 Beneficiaries................................................................................................................................. 4

1.5 Scope of the study................................................................................................................................4

1.6. Limitation of our project.....................................................................................................................4

2.1. Introduction.........................................................................................................................................5

2.2 Major types of Direct Dyes..................................................................................................................6

2.3. Properties of direct dye....................................................................................................................... 7

2.4 Dyeing of Cotton with Direct Dye.......................................................................................................8

2.5 Major chemicals used for direct dyeing...............................................................................................9

2.6. Dyeing mechanism with direct dye.....................................................................................................9

2.7 Finishing of dyed cotton fabric with citric acid................................................................................... 9

2.8 Control parameters of direct dyeing.................................................................................................. 10

CHAPTER THERE..................................................................................................................................... 11

METHODOLOGY...................................................................................................................................... 11

3.1. EQUIPMENT’S................................................................................................................................11

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 STUDY ON DYEING OFCOTTON FABRIC WITH DIRECT DYE AND FINISHING
BY CITRIC ACID

3.2. Material/chemical............................................................................................................................. 11

3.3 Methods..............................................................................................................................................12

3.4.1. Dyeing Procedure:..................................................................................................................... 12

3.4.2. Dyeing Process...........................................................................................................................13

3.4.3. Prepare dye solution...................................................................................................................13

3.4.5. Dyeing recipe............................................................................................................................. 14

3.4.6. Finishing Recipe........................................................................................................................ 20

3.4.7. Washing fastness tests................................................................................................................22

3.4.8. Rubbing fastness test..................................................................................................................23

3.4.9. Rubbing Fastness Measurement Procedure............................................................................... 23

CHAPTER FOUR........................................................................................................................................25

Result and Discussion.................................................................................................................................. 25

4.1. To study the color strength of direct dye fabric and finishing with citric acid.................................25

4.2. To study the washing fastness of cotton fabric with direct dyeing and finishing by citric acid.......27

4.3. To study the rubbing fastness of cotton fabric with direct dyeing and finishing by citric acid........28

CHAPTER FIVE......................................................................................................................................... 31

Conclusion and recommendation.................................................................................................................31

5.1. CONCLUSION.................................................................................................................................31

5.2. Recommendation.............................................................................................................................. 31

References....................................................................................................................................................32

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 STUDY ON DYEING OFCOTTON FABRIC WITH DIRECT DYE AND FINISHING
BY CITRIC ACID

CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION

1.1. Background
Dyeing is the application of dyes or pigments on textile materials such as fibers, yarns, and
fabrics with the goal of achieving color with desired color fastness. Dyeing is normally done in a
special solution containing dyes and particular chemical material. Dye molecules are fixed to the
fiber by absorption, diffusion, or bonding with temperature and time being key controlling
factors. The bond between dye molecule and fiber may be strong or weak, depending on the dye
used. Dyeing and printing are different applications; in printing, color is applied to a localized
area with desired patterns. In dyeing, it is applied to the entire textile. The primary source of dye,
historically, has been nature, with the dyes being extracted from animals or plants. Since the
mid-19th century, however, humans have produced artificial dyes to achieve a broader range of
colors and to render the dyes more stable to washing and general use. Different classes of dyes
are used for different types of fiber and at different stages of the textile production process, from
loose fibers through yarn and cloth to complete garments. Acrylic fibers are dyed with basic dyes;
while nylon and protein fibers such as wool and silk are dyed with acid dyes, and polyester yarn
is dyed with disperse dyes. Cotton is dyed with a range of dye types, including vat dyes, and
modern synthetic reactive and direct dyes. Dyeing is the process of adding color to textile
products like fibers, yarns, and fabrics. Dyeing is normally done in a special solution containing
dyes and particular chemical material. After dyeing, dye molecules have uncut chemical bond
with fiber molecules. The temperature and time controlling are two key factors in dyeing. There
are mainly two classes of dye, natural and man-made. Different classes of dyes are used for
different types of fiber and at different stages of the textile production process, from loose fibers
through yarn and cloth to completed garments. In textile manufacturing finishing refers to the
process that converts the woven or knitted cloth into a usable material and more especially to any
process performed after dyeing the yarn or fabric to improve the look, performance or “hand”
(feel) of the finished textile or clothing. The whole cycle of finishing consists of mechanical and
chemical processes, which are used depending on the kinds and end uses of the fabric. The direct
dyes also known as the substantive colors differ from the basic and acid dyes because cellulose

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 STUDY ON DYEING OFCOTTON FABRIC WITH DIRECT DYE AND FINISHING
BY CITRIC ACID

fibers have a strong affinity for them. Before 1884 cellulosic fibers could only be dyed on a
mordant or by means of indigo and a limited number of other naturally occurring vat dyes. Both
of these methods were troublesome and expensive. Cotton was made in large quantities in the
last century for markets where cheapness was a most important consideration. The direct dyes
were inexpensive and easy to apply and although of indifferent wet fastness their use spread with
great rapidity because they fulfilled an outstanding demand. New members with improved wet
fastness are still being added to this class of dye.

Figure 1.1: direct dye powders

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BY CITRIC ACID

1.2. Statement of the Problem

Most direct dyes are not used in Ethiopia like reactive dye and due to this most of textile
companies are forced to use reactive dye. Fabric direct dyeing is one of the most popular
methods of dyeing. It is relatively easy and also fairly inexpensive. While commercially
available, all purpose dyes that contain direct dyes are pricey, but direct dyes that are purchased
per pound of fabric are considerably less expensive than other dye counterparts. It represents an
extensive range of colorant that is easy to apply and also it is very economical. Direct dye is
mainly poor washing fastness, rubbing fastness and low color strength from this problem citric
acid is used for finishing to increase the washing fastness, rubbing fastness color strength (k/s)
value. So, the aim of this study is to study on dyeing of cotton fabric with direct dye and
finishing with citric acid.

1.3. Objectives

1.3.1. General objective

 Study on dyeing of cotton fabric with direct dye and Finishing with citric acid

1.3.2. Specific Objective

 To measure the color strength of direct dyeing cotton fabric with direct dye and finishing
by citric acid.
 To test washing fastness of cotton fabric when dyeing with direct dye and treated by
citric acid.
 To test the rubbing fastness of cotton fabric when dyeing with direct dye and treated with
citric acid.
 To measure the crease resistance of cotton fabric before and after finishing.

1.4. BENFIT AND BENFICIARY

1.4.1 Benefits
 Create awareness who wants to study the direct dye dyeing in half bleaching
cotton fabric.
 To create the way of possibilities to study direct dye from locally available plants.

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BY CITRIC ACID

1.4.2 Beneficiaries

 An individual who wants to study direct dyeing in cotton fabric.

 Textile Share Company
 Textile lab

1.5 Scope of the study

The effect of direct dye property of cotton fabric on its washing fastness, rubbing fastness, crease
resistance and color strength (k/s) are covered in this study. The study, consider only the direct
dye property of the cotton fabric. The scope of this includes the study of the washing fastness,
rubbing fastness, color strength and crease resistance of cotton fabric. Then improve the effects
for these problems just by applying soda ash, gluber salt and finishing by citric acid with direct
dye on cotton fabric.

1.6. Limitation of our project

To study these thesis the limitation is there and the challenges to be encountered, In these study
the major limitation of these thesis is it cannot be get suitable dyeing and finishing machines, it is
no adjustment of temperature, adjustment of PH. In dyeing it is shade variation on the fabric
because dyeing is takes place in baker. And also it is no enough chemical in dyeing room. It is
also no testing machine like crease test, light fastness tests.

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BY CITRIC ACID

CHAPTER TWO

LITERATURE REVIEW

2.1. Introduction
On 1883.Textile dyeing is synthesized in the first Congo red invention of direct dye that was the
first time dyeing which was became possible by direct chemical linkage between dye and fiber
[5]. Before that, the dye applications to textile were involved by three ways. Firstly, Physical
adsorption of water soluble dyes stuffs from an aqueous medium by the fiber, Secondly, by
mechanical retention of water insoluble dyes in the fiber substances, and thirdly, by suspension
of the dyestuff in the fiber. Direct Dyes are commonly used on cotton fibers. These Dyes are
mixed in all-purpose dyes along with the Acid Dyes. The color of direct dyes on cotton fibers is
not bright in respect to other dyes [4]. The wash fastness of these dyes is not very good. The only
advantage of these dyes is that the light fastness is little better. Light fastness means the resistant
capacity against fading in light. But, this is also in few cases only. One more benefit of using
Direct Dyes is that these can be used in the same dye bath with the Acid Dyes .If anyone wants
to get desired result by mixing Direct Dyes with unmixed cellulose then he/she will have to take
these direct dyes in their pure form unless the use of these dyes become worthless. It is
preferable to use direct dyes on the cellulose fibers. But if these dyes are accompanied with
'reserving agents' then these can be also used on stain silk and wool. But, unfortunately the
'reserving agent' is not available to home dyers. Few Direct Dyes, like Direct Orange 39 and
Direct Blue 86 are considered as having very high Light fastness capacity. These two have a
rating of 6 out of 8.Direct dye, also called SUBSTANTIVE DYE (3), any of a class of colored,
water-soluble compounds that have an affinity for fiber and are taken up directly, such as the
benzidine derivatives. Direct dyes are usually cheap and easily applied, and they can yield bright
colors. Wash fastness is poor but may be improved by after treatment [2]. Citric acid is a weak
organic acid with the formula C6H8O7 [7]. It is a natural preservative/conservative and is also
used to add an acidic or sour taste to foods and soft drinks. In biochemistry, the conjugate base of
citric acid, citrate, is important as an intermediate in the citric acid cycle, which occurs in the
metabolism of all aerobic organisms. In textile finishing it is widely used in crease resistant
finishing, washing fastness, rubbing fastness and color strength by acting as a cross linking agent.

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BY CITRIC ACID

It is also used in wide variety of technical applications in textile industry like waste water
treatment. Citric acid is a commodity chemical, and more than a million tones are produced
every year by fermentation. It is used mainly as an acidifier, as a flavoring, and as a chelating
agent [6].

2.2 Major types of Direct Dyes

There are two major types of direct dyes

1 Cationic Direct Dye

The main structural features of cationic direct dyes are

 The structural single and double bonding are extended.

 The molecular structure is planar.
 Positive charges are more than the negative charges.

2 Anionic Direct Dyes

Anionic direct dyes are used for coloring papers, controlling tint
And shade and correction of two sided paper color.
The main structural features of the Anionic direct dyes are

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BY CITRIC ACID

The planar vary from each other. The structural single and double bonds are very much
extended, and contains one or more than one sulfonate groups.
These sulfonate groups make them soluble in the water.

2.3. Properties of direct dye

Direct dyes are sodium salt of sulphonic acid and most of them contain an azo group as the main
chromophore. Direct dye dyeing is carried out in alkaline condition. This dyeing process is done
comparatively in low temperature [5]. After absorbing dyes it tends to bleeding of dyes which
produce unevenness of shade, to resist these different types of after treatment is done. Direct
dyes are anionic dyes substantive to cellulosic fibers when applied from an aqueous bath
containing electrolyte. Many of them also dye protein fibers. Direct dyes are very easy to apply
and available in the market.

Followings are the main properties of direct dyes.

 Direct dyes are water soluble dyes.

 It is anionic in nature.
 It needs electrolyte for exhaustion.
 Dyeing process is carried out in alkaline condition.
 Generally applied for cellulosic as well as protein fibers.

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BY CITRIC ACID

 Fastness properties are average specially wet fastness.

 Fastness properties are improved by after treatment.
 It is not widely used as compared with reactive dyes.
 Comparatively cheap in price.
 Light Fastness: Dyed and printed direct colors have a moderate light-fastness. This means
the direct dye anions seem to lack a stable electron arrangement, particularly in the
chromophores. A relatively short exposure to direct sunlight is enough to initiate
degradation of the dye molecule. The resultant break down of the direct dye anion is seen
as fading of the dyed or printed cellulosic textiles material [1].
 Wash Fastness: The comparatively poor wash-fastness of cellulosic textile materials dyed
with direct dyes can be explained as follows. The relatively large number of auxochromes
in the direct dye anion which contributes to the aqueous solubility of these dyes
contributes to the poor wash fastness of this class of dye. Direct dyes or more specifically
the direct dye anion, are attached to the cellulose polymers by hydrogen bonds and
Vander Waals, forces both of which are weak. Under aqueous conditions such as occur in
laundering these weak bonds may be hydrolyzed by the water molecules resulting in the
removal of these dyes from polymer system. The loss of dyes is seen as fading of the
cellulosic textile material [3].

2.4 Dyeing of Cotton with Direct Dye

Direct Dye is a class of dyestuffs that are applied directly to the substrate in a neutral or alkaline
bath. They produce full shades on cotton without mordanting. Direct dyes give bright shades but
exhibit poor wash fastness. Various after treatments are used to improve the wash fastness of
direct dyes; direct dyes are defined as anionic dyes with substantivity for cellulosic fibers,
normally applied from an aqueous dye bath containing an electrolyte, either sodium chloride
(NaCl) or sodium sulfate (Na2SO4). The dyeing process with direct dyes is very simple, direct
dyeing is normally carried out in a neutral or slight alkaline dye bath, at or near boiling point, but
a separate after treatment such as cationic dye fixing; to enhance wet fastness has been necessary
for most direct dyeing.

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BY CITRIC ACID

2.5 Major chemicals used for direct dyeing

Electrolyte: as the fabric surface is electronegative in nature, anionic direct dye need to be
attracted towards fabric by an intermediate electrolyte. As an electrolyte, common salt (Sodium
Chloride) is used widely salt can also be considered in this purpose. The functions of electrolyte
are: An increase in affinity of fiber, a decrease in hydrolysis rate of dyes, Neutralizes the electro
negativity of fiber, Increase the absorption of dyes. Alkali: is actually the initiator of the reaction
between dye and fiber. Without alkali, no reaction will happen. Soda ash and copper sulfate are
widely used for direct dyeing. The use amount of alkali depends on the reactivity of direct dye.
Here functions of alkali are-Maintain the proper pH, fixing the dyestuff by reaction, Sodium
carbonate to assist the solubility to improve the washing fastness. By washing the extra color is
removed from fiber surface. Thus wash fastness is improved.

2.6. Dyeing mechanism with direct dye

Direct dyes are applied to cellulosic fibers from an aqueous liquor to which is added an
electrolyte, which is usually sodium chloride .The addition of the electrolyte to the dye liquor is
essential to obtain adequate exhaustion of the dye molecules by the fiber polymer system. When
sodium chloride is added to the dye liquor it dissociates completely into sodium ions (Na+) and
chloride ions [Cl-] .The cellulosic fiber in the dye liquor has a negative surface charge attracting
to it the sodium cat ion .This neutralizes the negative surface charge of the fiber, also referred to
as the zeta potential enabling the dye anion of the direct dye to enter the fiber more readily. The
presence of chloride ions in the dye liquor also assists the dye anion to leave the dye liquor and
enter the fiber polymer system. This is the result of repulsive forces between the dye anion and
the chloride anion. The application of heat to the dye liquor increases the energy of the energy of
the components of the dye liquor, swells the fiber and accelerates the rate at which dyeing occurs.

2.7 Finishing of dyed cotton fabric with citric acid

Crease resistant finishing of cotton fabric with citric acid was prepared and used for the crease
resistant finishing of cotton fabric, which increased the crease resistance of cotton and avoided
fabric yellowing. And to increase rubbing fastness, washing fastness, color strength and to
reduces microbes on the fabric.

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BY CITRIC ACID

2.8 Control parameters of direct dyeing

Process parameters; Internal bleaching fabric pH, working liquor ratio on the machine, effective
salt concentration (actual), effective alkali concentration (actual), rate of heating, rate of cooling
Raw materials: Man (training, understanding, supervision), water, Common chemicals (Salt,
Alkali), Specialty chemicals (Auxiliaries), direct dye stuffs.

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BY CITRIC ACID

CHAPTER THERE
METHODOLOGY

3.1. EQUIPMENT’S
 Beaker Rubbing test machine
 Gray scale stains Stirrers
 Measuring cylinder Ruler
 Thermometer Weight
 draining machine steel
 line test machine Scissor’s

3.2. Material/chemical
 Direct dye, Sodium chloride
 Half bleached cotton fabric. Citric acid
 Wetting agent, Water (H2O)
 Sequestering agent, Leveling agent
 Sodas ash

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BY CITRIC ACID

Table 1: The sample parameter of half bleaching cotton fabric (yarn count 34*34) with
direct dye dyeing

No of sample Shade% Weight of

fabric
Sample one 3% 3g
Sample two 5% 5g
Sample there 8% 8g
Sample four 11% 11g
Sample five 14% 14g
Sample six 17% 17g

3.3 Methods

3.4.1. Dyeing Procedure:

1. Prepare the solution with substrate at room temperature

2. Add dye solution with other auxiliaries and raise the temperature at 900c

3. Run the bath for 15 min and add salt step according to dye bath concentration

4. This is better to add salt after reaching the temperature to build point since its period the
maximum penetration is achieved all over the substrate.

5. Run the dye bath for 30 minutes at 90 0c for complete the dyeing cycle

6. Cold down the bath temperature to 60 0c

7. Drop the bath and rise

8 washing with hot water and then soaping

9 finally draining with 5mintes

10. Carry on the after treatment process to improve washing fastness

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BY CITRIC ACID

3.4.2. Dyeing Process

The dye stuff is first turned into a paste by combining it with cold water. The paste dissolves
once it is added to the boiling water. The solution is constantly stirred to ensure that no lumps
form and the dyestuff fully dissolve into the boiling water. Sodium carbonate or other salt can
also be added to the bath. The amount of salt added will depend on the desired shade.

3.4.3. Prepare dye solution

Once you have gathered all your tools and set up a safe dying space you can begin the dyeing
process. Mixing dyeing in water. The art of dyeing requires a basic understanding of the
chemical interaction of dye materials with half bleaching woven fabric.so you will begin basic
dyeing process. Carefully measure direct dye and other chemicals first direct dye is add on the
beaker with water and then stir. It is mix soda ash, wetting, sequestering, leveling agent and half
salt are add then stir at room temperature.

Figure 2: preparation and dilution of stock solution

After prepare the dye solution with beaker is add on the stove at the temperature of 90
degree Celsius with 30 minutes and the half salts are add after 15 minutes. And then after
dying is complete. It can be cold down at 60 degree Celsius.so take out the beaker and
hand washing by hot water and soaping.

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BY CITRIC ACID

Figure 3: dyeing of cotton fabric

3.4.5. Dyeing recipe

Formula for calculation

Required dyes =sample Weight*Shade%/stock solution%

Required chemical= total liquor*recipe amount/1000*stock solution

Sample 1

 Shade…………………..3%
 leveling agent……….0.5g/l
 Wetting agent………….1g/l
 Sequestering agent……1g/l
 Soda ash…….………….3g/l
 Sodium chloride…..……4g/l
 PH…………………………7
 Temperature …………….90
 Time …………………..30m
 M;L……………….……1;30

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BY CITRIC ACID

 Sample weight…………...3g

Calculation;

Dye =3g*3%/2%=9g/2=4.5g

M; L, 1; 30=3g*30ml/1g=90ml

Leveling agent =0.5*90ml/2%*1000ml=0.0198g

Wetting agent=1g*90ml/2%*1000ml =0.045g

Sequestering agent=1g*90ml/2%*1000ml =0.045g

Soda ash=3g*90ml/2%*1000ml =0.135g

Sodium chloride =4g*90ml/2%*1000ml =0.18g

H2O required =90-4.9

=85.07ml

Sample two;

 Shade ………………..……..5%
 Leveling agent…………..0.5g/l
 Wetting agent ……..…..….1g/l
 Sequestering agent………...1g/l
 Soda ash ………………….3g/l
 Sodium chloride …………4g/l
 PH …………………………..7
 Temperature ……,,,,………90
 Time ………………...30minet
 M;;L……………………..1;30
 Sample weight…………….5g

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BY CITRIC ACID

Calculation;

Dye =5%*5g/2%=12.5g,

M: l=5g*30ml/1g=150ml

Leveling agent=0.5*150ml/2%*1000ml=0.0375g

Wetting agent =1g*150ml/2%*1000ml=0.075g

Sequestering agent =1g*150ml/2%*1000ml=0.075g

Sodium chloride =4g*150ml/2%*1000ml=0.3g

Soda ash=3g*150ml/2%*1000ml=0.225g

Require H2O

= 150-13.2=136.6ml

Sample there

 Shade ………….…..…8%
 leveling agent….……0.5g/l
 Wetting agent ….……1g/l
 Sequestering agent…..1g/l
 Soda ash………….….3g/l
 Sodium chloride…..…4g/l
 PH………………...……7
 Temperature…….…….90
 Time …...…..….30minte
 M;L…...……..…….1;30
 Sample weight ………8g

Calculation;

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BY CITRIC ACID

Dye =8g*8%/2%=32g

M: l=8g*30ml*1g=240ml

Wetting agent =1g*240ml/2%*1000ml=0.12g

Leveling agent=0.5g*240ml/2%*1000ml=0.06g

Sequestering agent =1g*240ml/2%*1000ml=0.12g

Sodium chloride =4g*240ml/2%*1000ml=0.48g

Soda ash=3g*240ml/2%*1000ml=0.36g

Required H2O= 240-33.56

=206.44ml

Sample four;

 Shade …………………….11%
 leveling agent…….…..….0.5g/l
 Wetting agent……..………1g/l
 Sequestering agent ………..1g/l
 Soda ash………………..….3g/l
 Sodium chloride….…….….4g/l
 PH……………….……….……7
 Temperature……..……..……..90
 Time ………………...….30minte
 M;L…………………………1;30
 Sample weight………..……..11g

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Calculation;

Dye=11%*11g/2%=60.5g

M: L=11g*30ml/1g=330ml

Leveling agent=0.5g*330ml/2%*1000ml=0.083g

Wetting agent =1g*330ml/2%*1000ml=0.165g

Sequestering agent=1g*330ml/2%*1000ml=0,165g

Sodium chloride =4g*330ml/2%*1000ml=0.66g

Soda ash=3g*330ml/2%*1000ml=0.495g

Required H2O= 330-62.48

=267.52ml

Sample five;

 Shade ……………..….14%
 leveling agent…….…0.5g/l
 Wetting agent……..….1g/l
 Sequestering agent…...1g/l
 Soda ash……………...3g/l
 Sodium chloride ….….4g/l
 PH………….…..……….7
 Temperature……….…..90
 Time ….………...30minte
 M;L.…………..….…1;30
 Sample ………....…...14g

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Calculation;

Dye =14%*14g/2%=98g

M: l=14g*30ml/1g=420ml

Leveling agent=0.5g*420ml/2%*1000ml=0.105g

Wetting agent =1g*420ml/2%*1000ml=0.21g

Sequestering agent=1g*420ml/2%*1000ml=0.21g

Sodium chloride =4g*420ml/2%*1000ml=0.84g

Soda ash=3g*420ml/2%*1000ml=0.63g

Required H2O=420-100.73

=319.27ml

Sample six;

 Shade……………………17%
 leveling agent…………0.5g/l
 Wetting agent……….….1g/l
 Sequestering agent.…….1g/l
 Soda ash……………….3g/l
 Sodium chloride……....4g/l
 PH………….……….……7
 Temperature…….…..….90
 Time …….…….…30minet
 M;L…………………..1;30
 Sample weight………..17g

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Calculation;

Dye =17%17g/2%=144.5g

M: l=17g*30ml/1g=510ml

Leveling agent=0.5g*510ml/2%*1000ml=0.13g

Wetting agent=1g*510ml/2%*1000m/=0.255g

Sequestering agent =1g*510ml/2%*1000ml=0.255g

Sodium chloride=4g*510ml/2%*1000ml=1.02g

Soda ash=3g*510ml/2%*1000ml=0.765g

Required H2O=510-147.815

=362.185ml

3.4.6. Finishing Recipe

Recipe 1; when to finish sample one and two the shade is 3%, 5% dyeing of half bleaching fabric
respectively

 Shade …………………………3%
 Citric acid……………………..30g
 Temperature ……………….95 degree
 Time ………………………15 minutes
 Water ……………………….1000ml
We can calculate the amount of citric acid to prepare the solution with water.
Citric acid= shade%*weight of acid/100
3%*30g/100=0.9g

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BY CITRIC ACID

Recipe 2;

 Shade……………………….5%
 Time ………………………15minutes
 Citric acid…………………..50gm
 Temperature……………….95degree
 Water ………………………1000ml
So we can calculate the amount of acid to prepare the solution
Acid=5%*50/100=2.5gm

Recipe 3;

 Shade…………………………….…8%
 Citric acid………………………….80gm
 Temperature……………………..95degree
 Time …………………………………..15minuts
 Water………………………………..1000ml

So we can to prepare the solution first to calculate the amount of acid

Acid =8%*80 /100=6.4gm

3.4.6. Color strength tests

To test the fabric first add the fabric on test machine the result is read on the computer it can be
reflectance (%), k/s values are calculated from % of reflectance.

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BY CITRIC ACID

Figure 4: color strength test machines

3.4.7. Washing fastness tests

Wash fastness is test by using line test machines these machine is work with the following
parameter.

 Temperature……………………60degree.
 Time ……………………………30minute.
 Water………………………………….100ml
From this parameter the fabric is prepare by steel metal design 4 by10 width and length
and sewing by white fabric. And also the line test machine is adjusted. we can 100ml
water is add on the beaker and add the fabric so the dye material is more transferred to
white fabric it is poor fastness and dye material is not transferred into the white fabric it
is good fastness.

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BY CITRIC ACID

Figure 5: line test machine

3.4.8. Rubbing fastness test

We can to test the fabric in two method the first one by wet white fabric and the second one by
dry white fabric .the color of the fabric is transferred into wet white fabric it is poor rubbing
fastness but it is not transferred to the white fabric it is good fastness. And the second method
also the color of the fabric is transferred in to dry white fabric it is poor fastness but it is not
transferred into dry white fabric it is good rubbing fastness.

3.4.9. Rubbing Fastness Measurement Procedure

It is a step by step method to measure the rubbing fastness properties. Rubbing fastness of the
material is done in dry and wet form like the following way.

1. White test cloth is put on to the grading and stag by steel wire.

2. The sample is run twenty times manually for ten seconds. And the rubbing fastness of the
sample cloth and degree of staining is accessed.

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BY CITRIC ACID

3. For rubbing fastness (Wet), the rubbing cloth is placed in the water and socked and squeeze.
The wet rubbing cloth is placed on to the grating and stag with stainless steel wire and run ten
times manually then assesses the attaining on to the rubbing cloth and the rubbing fastness of the
sample cloth is accessed.

4. Finally, Change of shade of the sample is measured with grey scale and degree of staining of
the white test cloth is measured by Staining Scale.

Figure 6: rubbing fastness test machine

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BY CITRIC ACID

CHAPTER FOUR
RESULT AND DISCUSSION

4.1. The color strength of direct dye fabric and finishing with citric acid
The reflectance (%) of direct dyeing cotton fabric sample was evaluated. The following table
shows the reflectance (%) and color strength (k/s) values of direct dyeing cotton fabric sample
for different shade (%). Dyeing of the half bleaching fabric with direct dye and finishing by citric
acid is to increase the color strength of the finished fabric by measuring the reflectance and by
calculating color strength (k/s) at 540nm. So you can discuss before finishing and after
finishing fabric as the following table. The value of k/s is calculated by this formula:

K/S= (1-R) ^2 /2R

Table 2. Color strength (k/S) at 540 nm before and after finishing fabric

Color strength (k/s) at 540nm

No of Before finishing After finishing
sample
1 6.69 12.2
2 6.54 11.1
3 6.5 10.5
4 6.3 9.87
5 6.1 8.8
6 6,02 8.4

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Table 3: percent of reflectance

% of reflectance
No of sample Before finishing After
finishing
1 15.33 26.26
2 15.01 24.19
3 14.85 22.97
4 14.68 21.7
5 14.24 19.46
6 13.97 18.19

From the above two table k/s value and % of reflectance is determined. It increases the
k/s value and reflectance of the fabric when shade (%) is decrease. Reflectance (%) of a
dyed fabric is greatly influenced by shade (%) of that dyed fabric. At the same time reflectance
(%) also influenced by the absorption properties of a dyed fabric. When shade (%) is higher, the
absorption of dye by the substrate is also higher which results in lower reflectance (%) value. At
the same time when shade (%) is lower, the absorption of dye by the substrate is also lower
which results in higher reflectance (%) value. Color strength (K/S) of the dyed fabric also
influenced by the increase of reflectance (%) value. In this research a relation was found among
shade (%) & reflectance (%) & Color Strength (K/S).When shade (%) increase, reflectance (%)
& color strength (K/S) decrease. At the same time reflectance (%) & color strength (K/S)
increase with the decrease of shade (%).

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Figure 7: after finishing 3% shade fabric

4.2. The washing fastness of cotton fabric with direct dyeing and finishing by citric
acid
Washing fastness of cotton dyed fabric sample were evaluated. The following table shows the
washing fastness of sample one, two, there, four, five, six, were evaluated.

Table 4: washing fastness

washing fastness
No of sample before finishing after
finishing
1 2/4 4/5
2 2/4 4/5
3 ¾ 4/5
4 2/4 4/5
5 ¾ 4/5
6 ¾ 4/5

In the above table washing fastness is increase from before finishing and after finishing
sample one up to sample six the shade % and washing fastness is directly relationship.

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BY CITRIC ACID

Figure 8: after finishing 3% shade fabric

4.3. To study the rubbing fastness of cotton fabric with direct dyeing and finishing
by citric acid
Rubbing fastness measurement is important one to know the ability of the dyed fabrics against
the rubbing or staining. This type of test shows the fixation of the dyes with the fabric. When
rubbing fastness is found good then it also determine that the washing fastness of the fabric will
be good. Rubbing fastness is measured in dry and wet form of the fabric. The rubbing fastness
properties of the textile material are measured by comparing the tested fabrics with the grey scale
and staining scale. Rubbing fastness of the material is measured as the following way in most of
the dyeing industry. Following sample is required to measure the rubbing fastness.

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Table 5: rubbing fastness test

before finishing after finishing

No of wet dry wet dry
sample
1 ½ 3 3 4
2 ½ 4 3 4
3 ½ 3 3 4
4 ½ 4 3 4
5 ½ 4 3 4
6 ½ 3 3 4

From the above table rubbing color fastness refers to the ability to sustain original color of dyed
fabrics when rubbing. Dry rubbing color fastness refers to the situation of fading and staining of
dyed fabric when rubbed with a standard white cloth. Wet rubbing color fastness refers to the
situation of fading and staining of dyed. Fabric when rubbed with a standard white cloth which
water content is 95% to 105%. The evaluation of Rubbing color fastness depends on the degree
of staining of white cloth. After testing, the white cloth is compared to staining sample cards to
measure staining fastness. Rubbing color fastness, same as washing color fastness, divide into 5
grades and, among which grade 4 is in dry good in wet also 3 and grade 1 is the worst. The
friction fading of fabric is to make dye fall off caused by friction. Wet rubbing is influenced by
both external force and water, so it is about one level lower than dry rubbing.

Figure 9: after finishing 3% shade

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BY CITRIC ACID

Summery

The half bleach cotton woven fabric was dyed with 3%,5%,8%,11%,14%,17% of direct dye on
weight of fabric using beaker stove dyeing method by hand wash laboratory sample dyeing. All
the parameters temperature, time, PH is kept constant in all shade % except auxiliaries
(chemicals). The color strength (k/s) is measured on dyed fabric has been measured in each
shade % by spectrophotometer instrument. The better % of reflectance, k/s value is in minimum
shade % of dyed fabric. Washing fastness is measured on dyed fabric in shade % has been
measured by line instrument machines. The rubbing fastness is measured on dyed fabric has
been measured in each shade % by gray scale stain. The better washing and rubbing fastness is in
maximum percent of shade % and the minimum fastness also in minimum shade % of direct
dyeing fabric. When the amount of salt concentrations is half added before starting dyeing
process and half dyeing steps (time) , PH has less impact on the values of degree of exhaustion
for dyeing of cotton woven fabric, but temperature, time is higher impact on the direct dyeing
of the fabric.

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CHAPTER FIVE
CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATION

5.1. CONCLUSION
The dyeing of direct dye in half bleaching woven cotton fabric and finishing by citric acid can be
dye in this experimental work was obtained to maximum % of reflectance in minimum shade %.
In 3% shade of direct dye was obtained to be 26.26% of reflectance. When dyeing fabric is
finishing by citric acid in the washing fastness maximum value 4/5 can be obtained. And also
the rubbing fastness can be study in this experimental work. In finishing fabric to obtained good
rubbing fastness. In wet can be obtained 3 and in dry 4. So before finishing and after finishing of
direct dyeing half bleaching cotton fabric in color strength (k/s) value, washing fastness rubbing
fastness different result can be obtained. So after finishing fabric is higher % of reflectance,
washing fastness and rubbing fastness than before finishing fabric.

5.2. Recommendation
 Other researchers can study the effect of temperature (below 95) on the degree of
exhaustion using small amount of citric acid treatment (below 3%).
 Other researchers can be study the effect of PH above 7 with respect to citric acid
diffusion and fixation in direct dyed half bleaching cotton fabric treatment.
 Other researchers also can be study on citric acid treatment on direct dyeing fabric, it is
environmental friendly b/c it is weak acid.

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REFERENCES

1. Broadbent, D. A., (2001), Basic Principles of Textile Coloration, Society of Dyers and
Colorists.

2. Shenai, A. V., (1993), Technology of Textile Processing Volume II: Chemistry of Dyes and
Principles of Dyeing, Sevak Publications, 495.

3. Iqbal, M., (2008), Textile Dyes, Rehbar Publishers Karachi, 65

4. Balter, M. (2009). "Clothes Make the (Hu) Man". Science. 325 (5946): 1329.
Doi:​ 10.1126/science.325_1329a.

5. A b Bhardwaj, H.C. & Jain, K.K., "Indian Dyes and Industry during 18th-19th Century",
Indian Journal of History of Science 17 (11): 70-81,

6. Yang C.Q., Xu L.,Li S.Q., Jiang Y. Q.; (1998), Non formaldehyde Durable Press Finishing of
Cotton Fabrics by Citric Acid with Polymer of Maleic Acid, Textile.

7. Lu Y., Yang C. Q. ;( 1990) Fabric Yellowing Caused by Citric Acid as a Crosslinking Agent
for Cotton Textile.

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