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Thesis 9
Thesis 9
BY
S.No NAME ID No
1 MENTSEGEBA ATSBHA WOUR/1113/08
2 NIGST ASMARE WOUR/1312/08
3 MULU ENDHAW WOUR/1239/08
DECEMBER, 2013
WOLLO, KOMBOLCHA, ETHIOPIA
i
ABSTRACT
Many plant species are found to have an important role in the day-to-day life of the ethnic and
local people. However, it is a matter of concern that the indigenous knowledge of extraction,
processing and practice of using of natural dyes has diminished to a great extent among the new
generation of ethnic people due to easy availability of cheap synthetic dyes. The production and
usage of the synthetic dyes is related with carcinogenic, toxic, allergic effects on humans and to
our environment. Costumers are becoming more and more conscious about the hazardous threats
and potential health issues in conjunction with the textiles they are using. Thus by keeping in
view of above, the present study has been undertaken so as to come to the age-old are of dyeing
with natural dyes. In the present work, the eucalyptus leaf and onion skin were used for the
aqueous extraction of dye, dyeing of the cotton fabrics with the combination of 50:50 but at
different concentration, using mordants (alum) and evaluate the resultant colour strength(k/s),
colour fastness of the dyed samples to washing, rubbing, and light. The results and observations
indicate that the dyed samples have a yellow color shade. When the dye concentration (40-100)
% and mordant concentration increase (5-6)% the shade depth/ colour strength also increase in
the range keep other parameter constant. With regards to color fastness, test samples exhibited
good fastness to washing, good fastness to rubbing and light fastness.
Key words: Natural dye, Extraction, Textile, Mordants, Colour Strength, Colour Fastness,
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APPROVAL BY ADVISOR
To the best of our knowledge and as understood by the student in the Research Integrity and
Copyright Disclaimer, this thesis/project adheres to the provisions of guidelines, policies and
legislations of the Ethiopian Institute of Technology for Textile and fashion design during their
research work and use of copyrighted material. The thesis is complete and can be presented to
the textile department.
Fenta M.
Advisor Name Signature
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
First we express our heartiest thanks and gratefulness to Almighty God for his divine blessing
makes us possible to complete this work successfully. We fell grateful and wish our profound
indebtedness to Instructor Mr. Fenta Mehabie for his entire Advice, endless patience, scholarly
guidance, and continual encouragement starting from the beginning up to the end of our work.
Deep knowledge & keen interest of some kombolcha university staff in department of Textile lab
Mr. Dawit G. At last but not the least, we would like to acknowledge our parents for their
approval, support & love to complete our work. Finally we would like to acknowledge that we
remain responsible for the inadequacies and errors, which doubtlessly remain.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
ABSTRACT ............................................................................................................................... i
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS....................................................................................................... iii
LIST OF TABLES .................................................................................................................... vi
LIST OF FIGURES .................................................................................................................. vi
CHAPTER ONE .........................................................................................................................1
INTRODUCTION ......................................................................................................................1
1.1 Back ground of the study ...................................................................................................1
1.2 Objective ...........................................................................................................................2
1.2.1 Main objective.............................................................................................................2
1.2.2 Specific objective ........................................................................................................2
1.3 Statement problem .............................................................................................................2
1.4 Significance .......................................................................................................................3
1.4.1 Benefit ........................................................................................................................3
1.4.2 Beneficiary ..................................................................................................................3
1.5 Scope of the study..............................................................................................................3
CHAPTER TWO ........................................................................................................................4
LITERATURE ............................................................................................................................4
2.1 Dye ....................................................................................................................................4
2.2 Classification of dye ..........................................................................................................5
2.2.1 Synthetic dye ...............................................................................................................5
2.2.2 Natural dye ..................................................................................................................5
2.2.1 Dyeing of cotton fabric with natural dyes ....................................................................7
2.3 Mordants ...........................................................................................................................7
2.3.1Importance of mordants ................................................................................................8
2.3.2 Types of mordant ........................................................................................................9
2.3.3 Mordanting process .....................................................................................................9
2.4 Eucalyptus .........................................................................................................................9
2.5 Onion skin ....................................................................................................................... 10
2.6 Literature gaps ................................................................................................................. 10
CHAPTER THREE................................................................................................................... 11
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MATERIAL AND METHODS ................................................................................................. 11
3.1 Materials and chemicals ................................................................................................... 11
3.1 Preparation of dyeing material eucalyptus and onion skin ................................................ 11
3.2 Extraction of dye ............................................................................................................. 12
3.3 Mordanting ...................................................................................................................... 12
3.4 Dyeing ............................................................................................................................. 12
3.4 Colour measurement of dyed fabric ................................................................................. 13
3.5 Colour fastness of dyed fabric .......................................................................................... 13
3.5.1 Washing fastness ....................................................................................................... 14
3.5.2 Rubbing fastness ....................................................................................................... 14
3.5.3 Light fastness ............................................................................................................ 14
CHAPTER FOUR ..................................................................................................................... 15
RESULT AND DISCTION ....................................................................................................... 15
4.1 Dye yields ........................................................................................................................ 15
4.2 Characteristics of dyed fabric ........................................................................................... 15
4.2.1 Colour strength .......................................................................................................... 15
4.2.1 Colour fastness .......................................................................................................... 16
CHAPTER FIVE ...................................................................................................................... 18
CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATION ......................................................................... 18
5.1 Conclusion ....................................................................................................................... 18
5.2 Recommendation ............................................................................................................. 18
5.3 Future scope of work ....................................................................................................... 19
5.4 Limitations ...................................................................................................................... 19
REFERENCE ........................................................................................................................... 20
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LIST OF TABLES
Table 3:1 Effect of dye concentration ........................................................................................ 12
Table 3:2 Effects of mordant concentration on dyeability .......................................................... 13
Table 4:1 Effect of dye concentration ........................................................................................ 16
Table 4:2 Effects of mordant concentration on dyeability .......................................................... 16
LIST OF FIGURES
Figure 2:1 Different colours of textile dye ...................................................................................4
Figure 2.2 Dyes on cellulosic fiber ..............................................................................................4
Figure 2:3 The complex mechanism of cellulose fibers and dyes with ion metal ..........................8
Figure 2.3 Color composition of eucalyptus leaves extract ..........................................................9
Figure 2:4 Structural formula of Pelargonidin............................................................................ 10
Figure 3:1 Preparation of eucalyptus ......................................................................................... 11
Figure 3:2 Preparation of onion skin .......................................................................................... 11
Figure 3:3 Extraction and filtration of dye ................................................................................. 12
Figure 3:5 Spectrophotometer ................................................................................................... 13
Figure 3:6 Light fastness test ..................................................................................................... 14
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CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION
1.1 Back ground of the study
The art of applying color in fabric has been known for a long time. Historical records of the use
of natural dyes extracted from vegetables, fruits, flowers, insects and also fish date back to 3500
BC. However, the importance of natural dyes disappeared since the advent of synthetic dyes,
which have a wide range of colors and shades as their main advantage. The generation of liquid
effluents is significant environmental problem, since most synthetic dyes are complex aromatic
molecular structures, which make them inert with difficulty in biodegrading when discharged
into the environment.
In this regards, many commercial dyers already have started using natural dyes as a convenient
replacement of synthetic dyes to overcome the environmental damage caused by synthetic dyes.
Also, synthetic dyes such as azo dyes are found to be carcinogenic (Nurunnesa 2018).
The use of natural dyes to replace synthetic dyes has been reintroduced in order to decrease the
environmental problems associated with synthetic dyes. Natural dyes are organic compounds that
can be obtained from natural sources such as plants or insects. They exhibit intensive colors, are
substantive to fibers, environmentally safe, easy to handle. Hence, there are intensive research
efforts to develop and use these dyes. Although the same types of trees may be available in
different parts of the world, their physical and chemical constituents vary widely as they are
dependent on the evolutionary nature in different parts of the world. In this research work, a
study was made to evaluate the potential of extraction of natural dyes from eucalyptus tree and
onion skin found in Ethiopia, to study the dyeing capability of the dyes on cotton fabric.
The main components of eucalyptus leaves that are responsible for the color given to textile
material are saretannins (gallic acid and ellagic acid) and flavonoids (rutin and quercetin). These
substances are considered very useful during the dyeing process due to their ability to fix the dye
within fabrics. In all molecules there are hydroxyl groups and oxygen atoms that may be related
to hydrolysis or partial charges, which are probably responsible for attraction to the cotton
hydroxyl groups.
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The outer scales of onion, including the brown skin and the outer fleshy scales, are significant
by-products of onions. These outer scales are mostly discarded. However, effective utilization of
these by-products is desirable. The skin of onions is inedible however it contains a dyestuff
called “Pelargonidin” (tetrahydroxyntoacyanidol).
1.2 Objective
1.2.1 Main objective
Study on dye ability of combinations of eucalyptus leaf and onion skin.
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1.4 Significance
1.4.1 Benefit
To reduce environmental pollution
To reduce health problem
Work opportunity for dye extractors and formation of business
1.4.2 Beneficiary
Customer
Industries
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CHAPTER TWO
LITERATURE
2.1 Dye
Dyes are substances that add color to textiles. They are incorporated into the fiber by chemical
reaction, absorption, or dispersion (Chequer et al. 2013). Dyes are natural or synthetic substance
used to colour something. Dyes are the chemicals that are absorbed into the molecular structure
of textile fibers which produce the color of the molecular structure of textile fibers which
produce the color of the textile product.
Dyeability: The ability of a dye to maintain its colour without fading or washing away or the
ability to be dyed.
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2.2 Classification of dye
There are several ways for classification of dyes. Dyes according to the source; According to
source, dyes are generally two types. Those are natural dyes and synthetic dyes. Dyes derived
from organic or inorganic compound are known as synthetic dyes. According to the nuclear
structure dyes can be categorized cationic dyes and anionic dyes. Now the most common
specified classification of dyes according to their application are direct, acid, azoic, solvent, basic,
reactive, mordant, vat, sulfur and disperse dye (Zubairu 2015).
Natural dyes Plant Origin have been used for the extraction of a majority of natural dyes.
Various plant parts including roots, leaves, twigs, stems, heartwood, bark, wood shavings,
flowers, fruits, rinds, hulls, husks, and the like serve as natural dye sources (Raja 2014). Insects
were the main source of natural dyes of animal origin and most of these provided red colors.
Some mineral pigments found in nature such as cinnabar, red ocher, yellow ocher, raw sienna,
malachite, ultramarine blue, azurite, gypsum, talc, charcoal black, and so on, have been used for
coloration purposes.
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2.2.2 1 Production Techniques for Natural Dyes
Unlike synthetic dyes, which are synthesized from chemical precursors, natural dyes are mostly
obtained from various plant parts. These plant materials cannot be directly used for dyeing
textiles. Also, many plant materials such as flowers and fruits are seasonal and contain a large
amount of water and hence cannot be stored as such. Therefore, in order to make them suitable
for textile dyeing purposes and to make them available throughout the year, these are subjected
to some processing operations.
Collected plant materials are first dried: either in shade or in a hot air drier at a low temperature
of about 40–50 0C to reduce their water content to about 10–15 % or less. Many materials can
also be sun dried. Dried material is then powdered in a pulverizer to reduce particle size and to
facilitate better dye extraction. These powdered and dried materials in most cases can be stored
in airtight bags and containers for at least a year and can be used for dyeing whenever required.
Storage under nitrogen can further prolong their shelf-life.
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2.2.2. 3 Dyeing methods of natural dye
Dyes are used for coloring the fabrics. Dyeing is a method which imparts beauty to the textile by
applying various colors and their shades on to a fabric. Dyeing can be done at any stage of the
manufacturing of textile- fiber, yarn, fabric or a finished textile product including garments and
apparels. The property of color fastness depends upon two factors- selection of proper dye
according to the textile material to be dyed and selection of the method for dyeing the fiber, yarn
or fabric According to (Gyanendra Tripathi1 2017) the dyeing process of cotton was carried out
in three stages. These are extraction of dye from the plant source, mordanting and dyeing.
2.3 Mordants
Mordant is a Latin word meaning „to bite‟. Mordants act as „fixing agents‟ to improve the colour
fastness of some acid dyes, which have the ability to form complexes with metal ions. Mordants
are essentially substances which are used to fix a dye to the fibres; they also improve the take-up
quality of the fabric and help improve colour and light-fastness. Mordants are usually metallic
salt of aluminium, chromium, iron, copper and tin, as well as other substance such as tanning
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agents. Mordants found in nature include wood ash, stale urine and acidic fruits extracts such as
lime (Ding and Freeman 2017). The use of mordant in dyeing not only increase the dye take up
and colour fastness but the use of different mordant on a natural dye can yield different colours
and shades. Mordants are used for fixation of the dyestuff, increasing the fastness properties or
variation in the color appearance. This last effect can be a desired effect as well as an unwanted
phenomenon (Kampeerapappun et al. 2010).
It is known that natural dyes need metal ion for fixing the dye to the fiber by forming an
insoluble composition precipitate on the surface of fiber and this is the role of metallic mordant
ion which gives a range of bright colors depending on the type of metal ion used (Elnagar, Tera,
and Mohamed 2012).
Figure 2:3 The complex mechanism of cellulose fibers and dyes with ion metal
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2.3.2 Types of mordant
There are three types of mordants, namely metal salts or metallic mordants, oil mordants, and
tannins.
2.4 Eucalyptus
The coloring components of eucalyptus leaves are described in the literature as flavonoids
(yellow compounds) and tannins. This yellow colorant and also tannin essentially enhances light
absorption in the visible region of spectrum by reacting with the salts of complex-forming
metals. Eucalyptus leaves contain tannins, phenolic acid, flavonoids, sesquiterpenes, aldehydes
and ketones that can be subdivided into two groups: hydrocarbons which are made up of terpenes
and oxygenated compounds which are mainly alcohols, aldehydes such as esters, ketones,
phenols and oxides. The chemical structure of the Eucalyptus is shown in (Figure 2.3) (Silva et
al. 2018).
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2.5 Onion skin
The skin of onion is not edible and considered as wastage. However, it contains a coloring
pigment called “Pelargonidin” (tetrahydroxyantocy anidol). The amount of this coloring pigment
is found to be 2.25%, and the structural formula of it has shown in Figure2:4.
The outer skin of onion (Allium cepa) which is generally thrown away as waste can be used to
extract yellow color natural dye. The dye is flavonoid in chemical constitution, and produces
bright colors on wool and silk. Cotton can be dyed with suitable mordant (Raja 2014).
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CHAPTER THREE
MATERIAL AND METHODS
3.1 Materials and chemicals
Materials: Onion skin and eucalyptus leaf were used as a source of natural dye soft water used
as a solvent for extraction. 100% pretreated cotton fabric was used to dyeing.
Chemicals: Alum, wetting agent, EDTA, sodium hydroxide and sodium chloride were used as
auxiliary chemicals.
Equipments: Water bath, stove, oven dryer, auto washer, Grinding machine, crock meter,
thermometer, universal pH indicator, spectrophotometer and filter paper were the main
equipments we have used to do this research.
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3.2 Extraction of dye
The extraction of the dye was carried using water bath apparatus keeping distilled water as
solvent. 300 ml of distilled water was used for 20g of powdered material for each. The material
was kept in the bath for 6hrs at 95°C.
3.3 Mordanting
Alum (KAl (SO4)2•12 H2O) was used as mordanting agent and pre-mordanting (mordanting
before dyeing), process was used. The fabric first desized and scoured fabrics treat with mordant
and then dye using extract of materials (eucalyptus and onion skin). The fabrics were treated
with a 6% mordant in the 1:20 M: L ratio for 45 minutes at 80 oC. Then the mordanted fabric
used for dyeing.
3.4 Dyeing
The experiments were performed at 800C and for 60 min with the ratio of eucalyptus to onion
skill extract (50:50) and MLR 1:40 but at different concentration to optimize concentration
which has gave best colour shade.
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Figure 3:4 Preparations of dye solutions
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3.5.1 Washing fastness
Dyed sample was placed between two pieces of dyed white sample. These three piachees were
hold together by stitching round the edges. The pre heated soap solution (Tide, at 60⁰C) in the
ratio of 1:50 i.e. 0.5g/25 mL water, was taken in a vessel added 1.0 g of sandwiched fabric for 30
minutes Then the specimen was removed and rinsed in cold water. The colour fastness is usually
rated by the presence of the colour in control sample.
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CHAPTER FOUR
RESULT AND DISCTION
4.1 Dye yields
The percentage yield of crude dye was calculated (using equation 1) as depicted in the
methodology part in relation to the original weight of dye material used for extraction. The
average yield of eucalyptus was 25.3% and onion skin 19.48%. Comparatively eucalyptus leaf
extracted had higher yield than onion skin extracted at the same extraction methods and
parameters.
Undyed S1 S2 S3
S4 S5 S6
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Table 4:1 Effect of dye concentration
Sample Dye Mordant (k/s) at Wash fastness Rubbing Light
code concentration concentration 460nm fastness fastness
(%) (%) Dry wet
S1 40 6 0.505 4/5 5 4/5 4
S2 60 6 0.788 5 5 4/5 4
S3 80 6 0.971 4/5 4/5 4 4
S4 100 6 1.785 4/5 4/5 4/5 4
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4.2.1.2 Rubbing fastness
Good and excellent rub fastness was exhibited by the fibers dyed using the dye extracted from
the onion skin and eucalyptus leaf. Complexing the fiber with mordant has the effect of
insolubilizing the dye, making it color fast. The fabrics dyed with onion skin and eucalyptus leaf
exhibit good fastness properties.
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CHAPTER FIVE
CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATION
5.1 Conclusion
Cotton fabric was successfully dyed with natural dye extracted from onion skin and eucalyptus
leaf plant in the presence mordant. It was found from the study that the combination of onion
skin and eucalyptus leaf plant extracted dye can be successfully used for dyeing of cotton in the
presence of mordants. The results and observations indicate that they have a yellow color shade.
When the dye concentration and mordant concentration increase the shade depth/ colour strength
also increase in the range keep other parameter constant With regards to color fastness, test
samples exhibited excellent fastness to washing, excellent fastness to rubbing and light fastness.
The extracted dye is eco-friendly and biodegradable, having no health hazard effects and eco-
label. The onion skin and eucalyptus leaf plant used as natural colorant are easily available in
Ethiopia which makes the raw material cheap.
5.2 Recommendation
In understanding of the results of the study the following are recommended for attention.
The textile researcher and industry use the results of our study as resource material for dyeing
of cotton fabrics.
The research institute should coordinate with small and medium enterprises to make their
knowledge, expertise and documentation on local plants available to train dyers to identify
and process them into dyes.
Jobless people could explore, extract and apply the plant dyes to their business work.
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5.3 Future scope of work
The developed technology can be shifted to the enterprise manufacturing and transferred
to the business for commercialization.
The combination of onion skin and eucalyptus leaf extracts can be applied on other types
of natural as well as synthetic fabric.
Study dyeability of the extracted dye by using other types of mordants
5.4 Limitations
The dye component could not identify/quantify due to inaccessibility of standards.
There are many extraction solvents, but in present study only soft water is used.
In this project work only one types of mordant is used to study the dyeability of
combination of onion skin and eucalyptus leaf extracted components.
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combination with natural dyes." Coloration Technology no. 133 (5):369-375.
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Gyanendra Tripathi1, Mukesh Kumar Yadav2*, Yogesh Kumar Tiwari3. 2017. "Cotton fabric
dyeing process from Eucalyptus camaldulensis leave‟s natural dye. International Journal
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Kampeerapappun, Piyaporn, Trongsu Phattararittigul, Sutida Jittrong, and Dararat Kullachod.
2010. "Effect of chitosan and mordants on dyeability of cotton fabrics with Ruellia
tuberosa Linn." Chiang Mai Journal of Science no. 38 (1):95-104.
Nurunnesa, Md Alamgir Hossain, Md. 2018. "Extraction of Natural Dye Collected from Outer
Skin of Onion and Its Application on Silk Fabric." Global Journal of Research In
Engineering.
Raja, Sujata Saxena and A. S. M. 2014. "Natural Dyes: Sources, Chemistry, Application and
Sustainability Issues." Springer Scienc no. 2.
Silva, MArcia Gomes, Nivea Tais Vila, Alexandre Jos Sousa Ferreira, Andreia Bortoluzzi da
Silva, Pedro Augusto Arroyo, and Maria Anglica SD de Barros. 2018. "Natural Dyeing of
Silk with Eucalyptus Leaves Extract." Global Journal of Research In Engineering.
Syed, Shoukat Ara, Naseer A.Mir, S. J. A. Bhat, P.K. Mishra, Hameed O. M, Gazala Qazi.
2013,. "Natural dyeing of fabrics using Quercus robur L. (fruit cups) dye and Punica
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Tripathi, Gyanendra Yadav, Mukesh Kumar Tiwari, Yogesh Kumar. 2017. "Cotton fabric dyeing
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Zubairu, Abdu Mshelia, Yusuf Madu. 2015. "Effects of selected mordants on the application of
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