WHOLE BRAIN LEARNING SYSTEM

OUTCOME-BASED EDUCATION
TECHNOLOGY AND LIVELIHOOD EDUCATION GRADE
ELECTRONIC PRODUCT
ASSEMBLY AND SERVICING 10
2
LEARNING QUARTER
MODULE WEEK 7-8

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 MODULE IN
ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS
ASSEMBLY & SERVICING
QUARTER 2
WEEK 7-8
MAINTAINING AND REPAIRING
ELECTRIC KETTLE
Development Team
Writers: Marlon G. Adora Joel R. Ventura
Richard F. Aison ` Jessie A. Ramos
Editor: Rodel Bryan R. Valdez
Reviewer: Godfrido Geothe B. Amano
Layout Artist: Richard F. Aison
Management Team:

Vilma D. Eda Arnel S. Bandiola

Lourdes B. Arucan Juanito V. Labao

Marju R. Miguel

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 INTRODUCTION:

This module in Electronic Products Assembly and Servicing 10 Alternative

Delivery Mode (ADM) contains information and suggested learning activities on
“Maintaining and Repairing Electric Kettle”. It covers the knowledge, skills and
desirable attitudes required in assembling consumer electronic products and systems.

This module consists of one (1) learning outcome. Each learning outcome contains
learning activities supported by instructional sheets. Before you perform the
instructions, read the information sheets and answer the pre-assessment and
activities provided to ascertain to yourself and your teacher that you have acquired the
knowledge necessary to perform the skill portion of the particular learning outcome.

Upon completing this module, report to your teacher for an assessment to

check your achievement of knowledge and skills required in this module. If you pass
the assessment, you will be given a certificate of completion.

The following are some reminders in using this module:

1. Use the module with care. Do not put unnecessary mark/s on any part of the
module. Use a separate sheet of paper in answering the exercises.
2. Don’t forget to answer What I Know before moving on to the other activities
included in the module.
3. Read the instruction carefully before doing each task.
4. Observe honesty and integrity in doing the tasks and checking your answers.
5. Finish the task at hand before proceeding to the next.
6. Return this module to your teacher/facilitator once you are through with it.

If you encounter any difficulty in answering the tasks in this module, do not hesitate
to consult your teacher or facilitator. Always bear in mind that you are not alone.
We hope that through this material, you will experience meaningful learning and
gain deep understanding of the relevant competencies. You can do it!

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 What I Need to Know

In your journey through the discussions and different tasks, you are expected
to become the learner as expected and required by the following:

Content Standard:
The learners demonstrate an understanding of the underlying principles in the
use and maintenance of electronic hand tools based on standard company procedures

Performance Standard:
The learners shall be able to use and maintain hand tools based on standard
company procedures.

Learning Objectives:

Prepare unit, tools, and workplace for installation and service (TLE_IAEPAS9-
12SCEP-DEAHC-IIa-b-37)
 Conduct complete checkup of consumer electronic products and systems
and verify defects against customer description
 Acquire manuals and service information required for installation as per
standard procedure
 Verify repair/maintenance history in line with the company procedures
 Set/prepare workplace for installation job in line with the client’s
requirements
 Prepare necessary tools, test instruments and personal protective
equipment in line with job requirements

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 What I Know

Directions: Choose the letter of the correct answer and write it on a sheet of paper.
Do not write anything in this module.
1. It is the simplest among the household appliances.
A. Blender B. Flat Iron
C. Kettle D. Rice Cooker
2. The element which the tendency in any material has to stop electricity flowing
through it
A. Aluminum B. Neon
C. Magnesium D. Resistance
3. A student uses an electric kettle. It works from the 230 V mains supply.
A potential difference of 1 volt is the same a_______?
A. 1 joule per coulomb. B. 1 joule per ohm.
C. 1 watt per coulomb. D. 1 watt per ohm.
4. What is the actual size of a 3800 W heater element on a 240V circuit?
A. 12A #14 B. 15A #14
C. 16A #14 D. 14A #14
5. What are the two main components of electric kettle?
A. Base and kettle jar B. Base and Heater
C. Base and Water Tank D. Base and Thermostat

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 Lesson
Maintaining and Repairing
1 Electric Kettle

What’s In
CROSSWORD PUZZLE

Direction: Look for the words intended for the Personal Protective Equipment for
Maintaining and Repairing Flat Iron. Write your answers on a separate
sheet of paper.

P I O C N J M S I W D F J K L S
H T C O A W A T T S A W C R K O
A L T M B O N D E P Y E O O A W
R O O P A R M A L R N F N S L Q
S G P O R K A S E O E V N E B S
A O W N A P R A C T I C E B O C
L D F E T L I L T E P L C U P G
D E L N S A A O R C A E T D A P
S T A T I C P L I T N A I D N O
D E M A W E U O C I D N N A D T
S F M S A A R U A V A E G R A B
G R A B X X G T L E K T Q R K D
W A B U V V Z O I Q S A E E E T
S T L I Y C L O T H I N G N S E
C S E L U L A L E A N K A F S X
V S S D M O S S S E G S F A E B

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 What’s New

Jumbled Words

Directions: Arrange the jumbled words in a correct form.

1. GTINSOR 6. EDCUER
2. NGSUTSANI 7. NIGURES
3. GNPLIFSMIYI 8. GLCRYCEIN
4. WEPEINSG 9. CTITAS
5. ZNGISTNDARADI 10. YTSFAE

What is It
Kettles are among the simplest of household appliances. Lift the lid and peer
inside and you'll see, at the very bottom of the water container, a coil of thick metal
called the heating element. When you plug the kettle into an electrical outlet, a large
electric current flows into the heating element. The element's resistance (the tendency
any material has to stop electricity flowing through it) turns the electrical energy into
heat. In other words, the element gets hot. Since it's in direct contact with cold water,
the heat passes to the water by conduction and rapidly warms it up too.

Figure 1. Electric Kettle

Source: https://www.explainthatstuff.com/how-electric-kettles-work.html

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Photo
Left: The heating element inside the base of the electric kettle shown in our left photo.

Right: In some kettles, the element is concealed from view, under the inside floor, to
stop it from "furring up" with limescale. This is a neater design, but it does make
for a much noisier kettle.

How long does a kettle take to boil?

You can boil water in all kinds of ways—even in a simple pan on an open fire
or stove—though an enclosed kettle is usually much faster: it stops heat escaping,
allows the pressure to rise faster (remember that water boils when its saturated vapor
pressure equals atmospheric pressure), and helps the water to boil more quickly. But
do you ever get frustrated at how long it takes your kettle to boil? Don't! The amazing
thing is that your kettle boils as quickly as it does—and here's why.

If you keep pumping heat energy into the bottom of a kettle (faster than heat is
escaping through the top and the sides), sooner or later the water inside it will boil. A
basic law of physics called the conservation of energy tells us that if you need to boil
a liter of water, starting from the same temperature, you'll always have to add the same
amount of energy to do it. Whether you use a camp fire or a kettle, a microwave or
some amazing stirring device in the manner of James Prescott Joule (see box below),
the amount of energy you have to put in to boil the water is exactly the same.

Let's say you start with 1 liter (roughly 1 kilogram, 2.2 lbs) of cold water at about
10°C (50°F) and you want to raise it 90°C to its boiling point (100°C or 212°F). The
amount of energy you need is 4.2 × 1000 grams × 90 degrees = 378,000 joules or 378
kJ.

The mysterious "4.2" is a constant value called the specific heat capacity of
water. Every material has a different specific heat capacity, which is simply the amount
of energy you have to put in to raise the temperature of one gram of the material by
one degree centigrade. You need to add 4.2 joules of energy to raise the temperature
of 1 gram of water by 1°C, so water's specific heat capacity is 4.2 J/g/°C.

378kJ to boil a liter of water is rather more energy than you might think. An
energy-efficient lamp rated at 10 watts uses 10 joules of energy every second
(because 1 watt means using one joule per second), so it would take it 37,800
seconds—about 10.5 hours—to use as much energy as our kettle uses in a single
boil!

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 Figure 2. Concealed Heating Element of Modern Electric Kettle
Source: https://www.explainthatstuff.com/how-electric-kettles-work.html

Photo: The concealed heating element from a typical modern kettle, looking from
below. The element is sealed in the light gray central part and (if you look closely) you
can just see its two terminals poking out on the bottom right. The darker gray rim (the
bit my thumb is touching) is a rubbery-plastic gasket that seals the heating element
inside the bottom of the kettle and stops water seeping through. The long tube at the
top carries steam from inside the kettle down to a thermostat that switches the element
off at the right time (as explained below).

How do instant hot water boilers work?

If you're tired of waiting and you want your kettle to boil faster, there are only
two things you can do. One is to use more electric current—in other words, buy a more
powerful kettle; the other use is to use less water.

How does a kettle know when to switch off?

Figure 3. Electric Kettle Mechanism

Source: https://www.explainthatstuff.com/how-electric-kettles-work.html

How an electric jug kettle switches off. There's a steam vent and tube (yellow,
43 and 44) leading down from the top of the water chamber (gray, 38) to a bimetallic
thermostat and switch (orange and red, 1 and 2). When the kettle boils, steam

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whooshes down this tube, heats the thermostat, and makes it flip open, switching off
the heating element (green, 39) and stopping the water from boiling any more.

Early electric kettles came with built-in danger: it was relatively easy to switch
them on, go off and do a chore or two, and then forget about them. If you were lucky,
when you came back a few minutes later, you'd find your kitchen filled with clouds of
steam. If you were unlucky, your kettle element might burn out, blow a fuse, or even
start a fire.

Thankfully, virtually all modern kettles switch themselves off automatically using
thermostats (mechanical, electrical, or electronic devices that respond to changes in
temperature). Many are based on designs developed by English inventor John C.
Taylor, whose companies Otter Controls and Strix Ltd have developed more than a
billion thermostats of this kind worldwide.

How do they work?

The simplest ones are mechanical and use a bimetallic thermostat (described
in our main article on thermostats) integrated into the element unit at the bottom of the
kettle. It consists of a disc of two different metals bonded tightly together, one of which
expands faster than the other as the temperature rises. Normally the thermostat is
curved in one direction, but when the hot water reaches boiling point, the steam
produced heats the bimetallic thermostat and makes it suddenly snap and flex in the
opposite direction, a bit like an umbrella turning inside out in the wind. When the
thermostat snaps open, it pushes a lever that trips the circuit, cuts off the electric
current, and safely switches off the kettle. More sophisticated kettle thermostats (used
in systems such as the fashionable Marco Über coffee boiler) are entirely electronic
and allow water to be heated to precise temperatures and maintained there indefinitely
by repeatedly switching the current on and off.

Figure 4. Typical Strix Thermostat-Switch

Source: https://www.explainthatstuff.com/how-electric-kettles-work.html

Photo: Here's what a typical Strix thermostat-switch looks like in reality. I've used dots
the same color as in the artwork above to show the key parts in this old, disassembled
kettle. The steam tube (yellow) carries steam down to the bimetallic thermostat. The
thermostat (orange) switches the kettle off. A switching unit (red) and several wires
connect the thermostat, the power on switch (pink), and the cordless connector (dark
blue) to the heating element's two terminals (green). The thermostat and switch are
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screwed to the bottom of the light gray, concealed heating element (shown in the photo
higher up this page).

Photo: A close-up of the bimetallic thermostat (shown by the orange dot in the other
photo).

Videos

 Bi-Metal Snap-Action Blade Demonstrated by Dr John C Taylor OBE: John

Taylor demonstrates how the bimetal thermostat from a kettle snaps on and
off.
 Don't Switch Off: Dr. John C. Taylor: Talks at Google: An inspiring talk by the
kettle pioneer.

How to Replace & Wire an Electric Water Heating Element

Figure 5. Parts of the Electric Water Heater Heating Element

Source: https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Electric_Water_Heater_Element_Replacement.php

The sketch at left of the parts surrounding an electric water heater heating
element is modified from illustrations provided by American Water Heater Co. These
parts are identified in order as shown in the sketch as

1. Access door covering the heating element, typically held in place by two sheet metal
screws (blue) 18. insulation (gray)

2. plastic cover over the thermostat assembly (green)

3. Thermostat assembly (upper)

5. Electric heating element (red arrow - this is what you are replacing)

6. Electric heating element gasket (purple arrow)

No number: yellow arrow points to the heating element mounting location. Clean this
area and its threads during heater element replacement.

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Watch out: as manufacturers of water heaters point out, you can be killed or seriously
injured if you do not follow instructions provided by the water heater manufacturer and
described in the water heater's installation, usage, and maintenance manual.

Below we describe the general procedure for replacing and wiring electric water
heater heating elements. Be sure you consult your individual water heater's installation
guide for details.

Figure 6. Electric Water Heating Element

Source: https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Electric_Water_Heater_Element_Replacement.php

 Turn off electrical power to the water heater. Failure to turn off electrical power
can result in fatal electric shock, and it will certainly burn any water heater elements
that are still good when you drain the tank.

Watch out: Do not turn electrical power back on until the tank has been repaired
(elements replaced, no leaks) and the hot water tank has been re-filled with water.

 Close the cold water supply valve that feeds water into the water heater tank and

 Drain the hot water tank by connecting a hose to and opening the drain valve
located near the tank bottom.

If this drain valve is damaged, leaky, or in poor condition, we recommend that

you replace it - it's not a costly part. Be sure to use teflon tape or pipe dope on any
threaded plumbing parts you are replacing. Leaks are not permitted.

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 Figure 7. Electric Water Heater Temperature Control
Source: https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Electric_Water_Heater_Element_Replacement.php

 Remove the access covers over the heating elements. [Photo above] You will
have to fold insulation outwards, or if the insulation is plastic foam as in our
illustration, just remove the insulating block and set it aside.

 Remove a plastic thermostat cover found under this insulation (gray cover in
our photo) - that protects the thermostat electrical connectors from touching the
water heater thermostat cover, and then disconnect the electrical wires connected
to the water heater element that is going to be replaced.

 Remove the heating element. Some water heater elements screw into a large
threaded opening on the water tank (as in our photo at left).

We use a 1.5” diameter socket wrench to get these elements out as it’s easier
bumping around with a wrench.

Turn the screw-in heating element counter-clockwise “leftie-loosie” to remove

it. Other electric water heater elements are held in placed by a steel plate and several
smaller bolts.

Often you will see that the old heating element was in trouble - sometimes we
see that it has partly disintegrated.

Figure 8. Electric Water Heater secured with a bracket

Source: https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Electric_Water_Heater_Element_Replacement.php

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 Other electric water heater elements may be secured with a bracket, shown in
our sketch above.

Remove the sealing gasket that prevented leaks between the heating element face
and the water heater tank face.

Watch out: keep this gasket until you have confirmed that your new water
heater element came with a new gasket.

Figure 8. Electric Water Heater Gasket

Source: https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Electric_Water_Heater_Element_Replacement.php

 Buy a replacement electric water heater element: This is a great time to take
your old heating element for a ride - to the hardware store to buy a replacement
water heater element of the same voltage, wattage, and length.

That way you can be sure the new heating element will fit.

The "length" determines how far the heater element sticks into the water tank.

Size matters. An electric water heater element that is too long may not fit or it may
contact the dip tube or other water heater components - an unsafe condition.

The sketch of an electric water heater element ready for installation is provided by
American Water Heater

 Clean the threaded opening (we use a toothbrush) and if you're replacing the
lower element, this may be an opportunity to remove scale from the tank bottom.

 Prepare the new heating element for installation: use teflon pipe dope or similar
pipe thread sealant rated for hot water, applying it to the opening threads and to the
threads on the new water heater element.

 Screw in or mount the new water heater element. Turn the heating element
clockwise using the same socket wrench you bought earlier (no one has one, right?)
Clockwise = to the right "rightie - tightie". Wipe off any water droplets before
reinstalling the new heating element - that will make it easy to check for leaks when
you have re-filled the water tank.

Watch out: When installing the new water heater element, be sure to replace
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 this gasket with a new one that comes with your new heating element - otherwise
the heater will leak. Clean the water heater tank face where the new gasket will sit
before installing the new heating element.

If you like, test the heater element for continuity using the diagnostic procedure
described at ELECTRIC WATER HEATER ELEMENT TESTS.

Figure 9. Electric Water Heater Thermostat and Heating Element Wiring Diagram
Source: https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Electric_Water_Heater_Element_Replacement.php

Be sure that any electrical wiring that you disturb or disconnect is reconnected
as it was originally.

We label parts or make a sketch to avoid confusion later on. Check for proper
water heater thermostat and heating element wiring connections by reviewing the
installation manual that pertains to your water heater.

Above we show a typical wiring diagram for a two-element electric water heater
at which both heating elements operate simultaneously.

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 Below we show the water heater thermostat and element wiring details from a
Plumber's Pack Water Heater Repair Kit using Thermo-o-Disc thermostats.

Figure 10. Plumber's Pack Water Heater Repair Kit using Thermo-o-Disc thermostats
Source: https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Electric_Water_Heater_Element_Replacement.php

This electric water heater repair kit includes two electrodes and the upper and
lower thermostats as well as replacement plastic covers for those devices.

The kit fits most models of electric water heaters made by American Water
Heaters, A O Smith, Bradford White, Craftsmaster, General Electric or GE water
heaters, GS Wood (some models), Kenmore, Lochinvar, Maytag, Mor-Flo, Reliance,
Rheem, Richmond, Ruud, Sears and State - in other words many major water heater
brands.

But your electric water heater wiring may differ in that it may have only one
heating element, or the two-element heater may operate the heaters individually (non-
simultaneous), or your unit could be a 120V heater (less common at residential
buildings) or even a three-phase installation (more likely at larger heaters and
commercial installations).

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 Figure 11. Electric Water Heater Wiring Standard Single Element
Source: https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Electric_Water_Heater_Element_Replacement.php

Continuing with the steps in replacing the heating element for a typical electric
water heater: re-connect the electrical wires

Illustration, adapted from AO SMITH ELECTRIC WATER HEATER WIRING

INSTRUCTIONS [PDF], shows the water heater element in red.

 Reconnect and secure the electrical wires to the new heater element terminals.

No, it does not matter which wire goes to which heating element terminal in this
case - electricity can flow in either direction. [Other electrical connections DO matter
very much, as we warn above.]

But we recommend that you re-connect the electrical wires exactly as they were
in the original water heater element installation - that will minimize bending and
forcing wires into a new position in the heater, thus minimizing chances of breaking
a wire or damaging its insulation.

Remember to replace the plastic cover that protects the wires and terminals
before pushing the insulation back in place and then replacing the water heater
element cover.

 Close the water heater tank drain valve.

 Re-fill the water tank with cold water. It will be easier and faster to fill the tank if
you open the cold water inlet valve feeding the water heater and then open a
nearby hot water faucet in the building until water flows freely out of that faucet.

Watch out: as American Water Heater and other manufacturers warn, if you
turn on electrical power to the heating elements when they are not already immersed
in water, the element will be destroyed!

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 Check for leaks around the heating element before you continue.

 Make sure that the water heater tank has completely filled with water by
turning on hot water at a nearby faucet - you should feel water (cold of course)
coming out of the faucet. Then it's OK to turn on electrical power to the water
heater and allow it to re-heat.

 Turn on electrical power to the water heater

After waiting for the tank to heat up, possibly a half hour or so, you should have
hot water.

That’s certainly frustrating

1. Check the actual thread gauge between the opening on the water heater and the
threads on the heating element.

You can buy a little thread gauge (it has a collection of little numbered saw-
toothed measuring devices, each with a thread gauge number on it) or you could try a
finely-marked ruler to count the threads per inch on both opening and element.

2. If the threads are the right gauge it’s possible that the threads at the start of the
opening on the water heater are damaged OR that the threads were not cut properly
on the new heating element.

**Sometimes** I’ve been able to salvage that problem by working carefully (on
JUST the initial threads) with a sharp triangular file and with even a small sharp
screwdriver blade to clean the thread gaps in the opening.

There are, of course huge thread cutting devices that can re-cut thread on both
items but you may not want to go to that expense.

Shown below is the OriGlam Screw Thread Pitch Cutting Gauge Tool - note
that you need to buy the right gauge: inch or metric, probably "Inch" or U.S. NPT
gauge.

On 2020-06-05 by ANDY

I was unable to put the new element in, it just never threaded in right, eventually
the gasket broke. It’s the right replacement based on serial # from plumbing supply.

It looks like the threads on the new one don't actually come to a start point
where i am able to connect to the heater.

On 2020-05-13 - by (mod) - where do the heating element black and red wires
go?

Wayne

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Black = hot 120VAC

Red = hot 120VAC

together 240 VAC

See the wiring diagram for your water heater

Watch out: if you are not trained in proper and safe electrical wiring you could
be chocked or killed.

On 2020-05-05 by Wayne Harrison

House wiring has black/white/ground. Water heater has black/red/ground.

Where does the red go?

On 2019-07-15 - by (mod) - don't push the replacement heating element wattage

far above original

Isaac:

There are some possible issues with installing a water heater element whose wattage
rating is significantly above the original manufacturer's unit.

1. Proper & safe wire size: A 3800 W heater element on a 240V circuit might require
just a 15A #14 copper circuit;

A 4500 W heater element on the same 240V circuit might require about 19A so
would require a 20A $12 Copper wire circuit.

If you just stick the 4500w element on the original circuit and if the original circuit
is not the proper wire size the either the breaker will trip (or fuse blow) or the if you
over-fuse it to avoid that you risk overheating the wire and a house fire.

On the other hand, if the circuit is a 20A#12 copper wire on 240V this issue may
not pertain.

2. The heater element dimensions must fir the water heater; if the new heater is
longer, for example, it may touch a dip tube in the heater causing expensive, even
dangerous damage;

On the other hand if the new element is about the same length as the original
this problem may not occur.

On 2019-07-11 by Isaac

I have electric water heater element isn’t good - this is the description of the old
element 3,800 watt 240V. I order a new one online and they sent me one that I’m not
sure if will work here is the description of the new one 4500 Watt 240V. I would like to
know if I install the new one could be a issue
18
On 2018-02-27 - by (mod) - which heating element wire goes where?

Figure 12. Electric Water Heater Wiring Standard Single Element

Source: https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Electric_Water_Heater_Element_Replacement.php

It should not matter one bit which wire connects to which side of standard
electric water heater heating element.

Here I will include an example of the simplest, most-basic electric water heater
heating-element wiring. This is form

ELECTRIC WATER HEATER ELEMENT WIRING INSTRUCTIONS [PDF] from AO

Smith

I have marked the heater element in red. You'll see that it is symmetrical - that
is, you would simply connect the element terminal that is closest to the individual wire.

On 2018-02-27 by George

A friend of mine replaced my heating elements, he took the wires off (one white
and one blue that goes on the elements) he didn't mark which went were, does it
matter which screw the wires go on?

The tank has a top n bottom element with the same color of wire, one white one
blue how can I tell Which is hot and ground on the elements? Or don't it matter?

Electric Water Heater Element Wiring Instructions & Repair Manuals

Watch out: Improper installation, adjustment, alteration, service or maintenance of any

water heater can cause death, serious bodily injury, or property damage.

 AMERICAN RESIDENTIAL ELECTRIC WATER HEATER INSTALLATION

INSTRUCTIONS AND USE & CARE GUIDE, American Water Heater Co.,
October 2001, American Water Heater Co., Johnson City, TN, [manufacturer of
19
 residential & commercial water heaters, also manufacturer of Polaris/Commercial
water heaters], Tel: 800-999-9515, web search 1/12/2012, original source:
americanwaterheater.com/support/manuals/res-elect.pdf
 AO SMITH ELECTRIC WATER HEATER WIRING INSTRUCTIONS [PDF] A. O.
Smith Water Products 500 Tennessee Waltz Parkway Ashland City, TN 37015
USA Phone: 800-527-1953 A. O. Smith products, technical support, warranty or
service needs Website: www.hotwater.com
 A.O. Smith RESIDENTIAL GAS & ELECTRIC WATER HEATER SERVICE
HANDBOOK [PDF] retrieved 2017/11/17, original source:
https://www.hotwater.com/lit/training/320991-000.pdf

This manual covers residential gas fired water heaters that are atmospherically
vented and use a thermocouple as their electrical source, and residential electric
water heaters having one or two heating elements and common wiring
configurations.
 BRADFORD WHITE ELECTRIC WATER HEATER INSTALLATION &
OPERATION MANUAL [PDF], (2014) Bradford White Water Heaters, 725
Talamore Drive
Ambler, PA 19002 USA, Website: http://www.bradfordwhite.com Tel-USA:
800.523.2931, Tel-Canada: 866.690.0961 International Sales 215.641.9400,
Warranty Department 800.531.2111, Contractor Technical Support 800.334.3393,
retrieved 2018/02/27, original source:
http://www.bradfordwhite.com/sites/default/files/product_literature/238-44422-
00N.pdf
 BRADFORD WHITE RESIDENTIAL ELECTRIC AND LIGHT DUTY
COMMERCIAL ELECTRIC WATER HEATERS SERVICE MANUAL [PDF]
Troubleshooting Guide and Instructions for Service (To be performed ONLY by
qualified service providers) Manual 2 38-47104-00A Models covered: M1&
M2(HE) UprightModels. M1& M2 Lowboy Models. M1& M2 UtilityModels. M1& M2
Wall HungModels. Light DutyEnergy Saver: LD Upright Models. LD Utility Models.
LD Lowboy. LD WallHung. Dairy Barn Deluxe Energy Saver: DB Models.
 GIANT ELECTRIC WATER HEATER MANUAL [PDF] Giant Water Heaters, 40
Avenue Lesage, Montreal-East, Quebec, Canada H1B 5H3 Tel: (514) 645-8893
1-800-363-9354 website: http://www.giantinc.com/

Giant is a Canadian manufacturer of residential, light duty commercial and

commercial, electric, gas and oil-fired water heaters.
 HUBBELL OPERATING AND MAINTENANCE MANUAL FOR COMMERCIAL
ELECTRIC WATER HEATER [PDF] Hubbell Electric Heater Company, P.O. Box
288
Stratford, CT 06615-0288 USA Tel: (203) 378-2659 Website:
http://www.hubbellheaters.com/retrieved 2018/02/27, original source:
http://www.hubbellheaters.com/downloads/oms/model_e_om.pdf
 RHEEM ELECTRIC WATER HEATER MANUAL [PDF] Installation, use, care
 STATE ELECTRIC WATER HEATERS, TABLE TOP, MANUAL [PDF] retrieved
2018/02/27, original source: http://www.statewaterheaters.com/lit/im/res-
elec/0002917490-0.pdf
 WESTINGHOUSE ELECTRIC WATER HEATER MANUAL [PDF] retrieved
2018/02/27, original source:
http://www.westinghousewaterheating.com/literature/whl-026.pdf
 WHIRLPOOL ELECTRIC WATER HEATER MANUAL [PDF] retrieved 2018/02/27
 WATER HEATER MANUALS - all water heater brands.
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How To Repair Electric Kettle At Home

Figure 13. Electric Water Heater

Source: https://maintenanceskill.com/how-to-repair-electric-kettle-at home

Electrical Kettle is the basic kitchen aid Accessories. Sometimes u want to

make tea and suddenly you know that your KitchenAid electric kettle is not working
then don’t worry. Here I will tell you some simple step to repair your electric kettle at
home.

Let me first explain about the base of electric kettle. The Electric Kettle consist
of 2 main components one is base and second is kettle jar. Base has a circular shape
and with the one up is positive and one is negative. So when this is connected to the
power point and we placed the receiver positive and negative ends. It will worm the
liquid inside steal body. It’s a decent machine. When your water gets heat it will
automatically switch off.

Now I’m going to tell you how what goes wrong basically in these kinds of Kettle
and how you can repair it at home. Here is a similar kind of tea kettle.

Figure 14. Inner Parts of Electric Water Heater

Source: https://maintenanceskill.com/how-to-repair-electric-kettle-at home

I just opened this back to show you what it’s inside and how you can repair.

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 Figure 15. Inner Parts of Electric Water Heater
Source: https://maintenanceskill.com/how-to-repair-electric-kettle-at home
So here you have what it contains inside. You can see the heating element, led
indicator, which is the actual main component of the electric kettle. Electric heater
controls the temperature and once the temperature rises high and heated up fully there
is a control to disconnect the power supply and the heating will stop. So there is no
damage to the heater. Disconnect the wire and open the thermostat if it’s not heating
the water or not automatically stop after heating.

Replace your Electric Kettle Thermostat with a new one. Because 90 percent
problem occurs when your thermostat does not work properly.

And 10 percent chance is your heating Element getting wrong. When you go to
buy a new thermostat you need to make sure that you are getting the right kind of
thermostat. Which can fit into your electric kettle head. Because there are many types
of a thermostat in the market some are in round and some are in square shape. You
need to make sure that you have got the right one when you are trying to repair or
replace your electric kettle.

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Kettles and Electric Urns

This page covers electric kettles and urns, how they work and how you may be
able to fix them. It may contain some useful tips which you can apply to rice boilers.

Summary

Electric kettles and urns are basically fairly simple devices but the combination
of heat, water and electricity can often lead to failures. This is particularly true of cheap
electric kettles which often, unfortunately, can't be repaired.

Safety

Always double check that the device is unplugged before starting work. It could
be very dangerous to test it by plugging it in whilst partially dismantled.

Parts may be very hot after the device has been switched on. Be sure to allow
them to cool before working on it.

What’s More

We frequently see broken electric kettles at Restart parties but unfortunately

tend to have limited success in repairing them. Most modern ones are cordless, resting
on a circular base which is connected to the mains supply. Some older cordless ones
have a non-circular base with the connections beneath the handle. Even older ones
have a detachable lead and these have an element that you can see when you look
in the top, and might even be replaceable. More modern kettles, on the other hand,
have the element built into the metal bottom of the jug.

How they work

Figure 16. The mechanism in the base of a kettle

Source: https://wiki.restarters.net/Kettles_and_Electric_Urns

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 All automatic kettles work by providing a path for the steam, as they come to
the boil, over a bimetallic strip or popping disk which bends under the heat, so flicking
off the switch.

Referring to the picture, the supply from the base enters via the central pin and
the circular contact around it. These are connected to the switch contacts (both live
and neutral are switched) and hence through a pair of brass strips, the other ends of
which are spot-welded to the ends of the element.

Wires are also taken from the brass strips to the neon, which lights whenever
power to the element is switched on.

In this kettle there is probably a bimetalic strip (not visible) in the steam path
which flicks the switch off when the kettle boils. A bimetallic popping disc (which pops
like the safety button on the lid of a jar of jam) also flicks the switch off if the kettle
overheats.

Often a kettle will also have a thermal fuse as a safety measure to switch it off
if it's turned on with no water in it.

As an additional long-stop safety measure to prevent a possible fire if other

measures fail, some kettles have an element which is designed to burn out before it
gets dangerously hot. Unfortunately, such elements are prone to burning out
needlessly. In others, a plastic is used in the switch mechanism which will soften with
excessive heat, releasing the spring which holds the contacts closed and so switching
the current off. You then have a dead kettle, but at least it didn't burn your house down.

Fault finding and fixing

If the kettle is completely dead, check the fuse before doing anything else. This
is not often the problem but is easily checked and could save you a lot of time. Again,
not often the problem, but it's also worth checking the connections from the mains plug
through to the base that the kettle sits on.

Next, check the state of the contacts in the base of the kettle itself. These can
sometimes get distorted or eroded by sparking, in which case you may be able to
effect a fix by cleaning or bending them back into shape.

Sometimes the problem is a lid which doesn't close or stay closed, and this can
be a broken piece of plastic, not often repairable. There may be some screws under
the lid allowing you to access the hinge or catch.

Disassembly usually starts with removal of several screws in the base. Some
or all of these may be security screws to prevent unskilled tampering. The base will
then come off allowing you to examine the switch, the element and any other parts.

The element is probably the first thing to check. The connections should be
fairly obvious and you can check it with a multimeter on a resistance range. For a 3KW
kettle it should read around 20Ω, or up to 100Ω for a small travel kettle. The element
is not usually replaceable where it's built into the base.

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 There may be a thermal fuse to cut off the current in the event of the kettle
boiling dry or being operated empty. Test it with a multimeter on a resistance range (it
should record practically zero resistance). This, you may be able to replace, but make
sure the replacement is rated at the same temperature and current. It's likely to be
mounted so as to be in good thermal contact with the base of the jug, and a
replacement must be similarly mounted.

The switch mechanism consists of several plastic and metal parts allowing it to
be switched on by an external control and switched off by the bimetallic strip or
popping disk. The plastic parts sometimes get broken, and here too, they are not often
fixable. Sometimes, something may get dislodged and by a careful examination you
may be able to see how to fix it.

Over time, the electrical contacts which close to boil the kettle may get bent and
fail to connect in which case bending them back into place may fix the problem.

Water leaks are sometimes a problem, and these are hard to fix, particularly in
the presence of lime scale. Steam may get into the switch mechanism and causes
corrosion. This too is problematical but there may be some hope if you can clean it up.

Electric urns

Catering urns, particularly the higher quality ones, may offer more hope as
spare parts may be available and may not be hard to fit. Spare elements, switches,
thermal cut-outs, taps and other parts may be available from a catering equipment
supplier.

Fault finding initially follows the same principles as for a domestic kettle. Instead
of a single use thermal fuse it may have a thermal cut-out with a manual or automatic
reset. The manual reset types have a button to press which will give a definite click as
it resets, but some level of disassembly is likely to be necessary to access it as the
button will be very close to live contacts.

Automatic fill types of urn are designed to be plumbed in to a water supply and
contain an electrically actuated stop cock. There will be sensors to detect the water
level and temperature, feeding into some sort of controller which switches the element
and operates the stop cock.

The controller on these may be relatively sophisticated, for example, if switched

on empty it may initially fill with a small amount of water and first of all bring that to the
boil. It will then top up a little at the time, bringing it back to the boil with each top-up
until it's full. Since a 10 litre urn may take half an hour to boil from cold, this allows it
to start dispensing boiling water much sooner.

25
 What I Can Do

ACTIVITY 1
Direction: Draw and label the Electric Water Heater Thermostat and Heating Element
Wiring Diagram on a long bond paper.

Assessment

I. Multiple Choice

Directions: Choose the letter of the correct answer and write it on a sheet of paper.
Do not write anything in this module.
1. What are the two main components of electric kettle?
A. Base and kettle jar B. Base and Heater
C. Base and Water Tank D. Base and Thermostat
2. What is the actual size of a 3800 W heater element on a 240V circuit?
A. 12A #14 B. 15A #14
C. 16A #14 D. 14A #14
3. A student uses an electric kettle. It works from the 230 V mains supply.
A potential difference of 1 volt is the same a_______?

A. 1 joule per coulomb. B. 1 joule per ohm.

C. 1 watt per coulomb. D. 1 watt per ohm.
4. The element which the tendency in any material has to stop electricity flowing
through it
A. Aluminum B. Neon
C. Magnesium D. Resistance
5. It is the simplest among the household appliances.
A. Blender B. Flat Iron
C. Kettle D. Rice Cooker

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II. Directions: Write True if the statement is correct or False if it is wrong. Write your
answer in another sheet of paper.
1. A 4500 W heater element on the same 240V circuit might require about 19A.
2. Electrical Kettle is the basic kitchen aid Accessories.
3. If you keep pumping heat energy into the bottom of a kettle, sooner or later the
water inside it will not boil.
4. There may be a thermal fuse to cut off the current in the event of the kettle boiling
dry or being operated empty.
5. If the kettle is completely dead, check the base before doing anything else.

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28
P I O C N J M S I W D F J K L S
H T C O A W A T T S A W C R K O
A L T M B O N D E P Y E O O A W
R O O P A R M A L R N F N S L Q
S G P O R K A S E O E V N E B S
A O W N A P R A C T I C E B O C
L D F E T L I L T E P L C U P G
D E L N S A A O R C A E T D A P
S T A T I C P L I T N A I D N O
D E M A W E U O C I D N N A D T
S F M S A A R U A V A E G R A B
G R A B X X G T L E K T Q R K D
W A B U V V Z O I Q S A E E E T
S T L I Y C L O T H I N G N S E
C S E L U L A L E A N K A F S X
V S S D M O S S S E G S F A E B
CROSSWORD PUZZLE
ASSESSMENT
JUMBLED WORDS PRE-
ASSESSMENT
I. II.
1. SORTING 6. REDUCE
2. SUSTAINING 7. REUSING 1. C
1. A 1. TRUE
3. SIMPLIFYING 8. RECYCLING 2. D
2. B 2. TRUE
4. SWEEPING 9. STATIC 3. A
3. A 3. FALSE
5. STANDARDIZING 10. SAFETY 4. B
4. D 4. TRUE
5. A
5. C 5. FALSE
Answer Key
REFERENCES:
- https://www.explainthatstuff.com/how-electric-kettles-work.html
- https://maintenanceskill.com/how-to-repair-electric-kettle-at home/?fbclid=IwAR1xe
Oj2tVtNTih95xwiliiS3n3zjnOkTZ9m5Ka68JZ2SWkipuTrkyBS1PU
- https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Electric_Water_Heater_Element_Replacement.php
- https://wiki.restarters.net/Kettles_and_Electric_Urns

For inquiries or feedback, please write or call:

Department of Education – Schools Division of Laoag City

Curriculum Implementation Division
Brgy. 23 San Matias, Laoag City, 2900
Contact Number: (077)-771-3678
Email Address: laoag.city@deped.gov.ph

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