WINE BUSINESS MONTHLY

November 2015 • $5.95 The Industry’s Leading Publication for Wineries and Growers www.winebusiness.com

WINE TRIALS:
The Most In-depth Study of Cultivars Ever Attempted

Vineyard Survey Report:

More Vineyards Use Flow Meters

Fruition Sciences on Targeting

Irrigation According to Grape Variety

Plus:
Differentiation by Design:
The Key to Sales Success
In-house Wine Analyses for Small Wineries
A New Spin on Wind Machines for
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month in review
WINE BUSINESS MONTHLY
November 2015 • Volume XXII No. 11

EDITOR
Cyril Penn
SENIOR TECHNICAL EDITOR
Curtis Phillips
MANAGING EDITOR
Rachel Nichols

After the Fire ASSISTANT EDITOR

Erin Guenther
STAFF WRITER
Bill Pregler
COPY EDITOR
Paula Whiteside
EDITOR AT LARGE
Lisa Shara Hall
CONTRIBUTORS
Lance Cutler
Mark Greenspan
AS THIS ISSUE SHIPS to print and onward to Jean L. Jacobson
subscribers, growers are in the final stages of what’s Jenny Jasinska-Olsen
Michael S. Lasky
been an unusually fast, though somewhat light harvest. Jake Lorenzo
It’s also been about two weeks since a massive wildfire Thibaut Scholasch
Liza B. Zimmerman
swept through parts of Lake County, California. People
are still in a state of shock. While the fire is now 97 DESIGN & PRODUCTION
percent contained, 76,000 acres burned. The Valley Scott Summers

Fire has been called the third most damaging wildfire

PRESIDENT & PUBLISHER
in California history in terms of damage inflicted. The Eric Jorgensen
latest tally indicates 1,958 buildings were destroyed, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER
Tamara Leon
including 1,280 homes, 27 multifamily structures, and
66 commercial properties. At its peak, 4,800 firefighters
ADVERTISING
fought the fire. At least one of them was critically Advertising Account Executive
injured. Four people died in the blaze. Karen Fraser

The wine industry is always good about giving Classifieds

back to the community. It was heartening, though
not surprising, to see industry groups step up to help.
Support was quick and substantial: The Napa Valley
Vintners immediately committed $250,000; E&J Gallo
committed $100,000; while Constellation Brands
matched employee donations, raising $100,000. Jackson
Family Wines announced matching employee dona-
tions. Beckstoffer Vineyards, which farms roughly
1,300 acres in Lake County, made a large contribution.
Individual vintners like Dario Sattui, just to name one,
made significant donations. Smaller individual dona-
tions came from farmworkers and winery employees
supporting the community.
As for the fallout specific to the wine industry, the
Lake County Wine Commission estimated that 80
percent of the 8,700 bearing acres in the county were
Jacki Kardum
ADMINISTRATION
This issue of WBM includes a wide range of material. Vice President – Data Management
Lynne Skinner
There’s a focus on packaging, on laboratory equipment
Circulation
for small wineries, a feature about the daunting chal- Liesl Stevenson
lenges of growing winegrapes in Michigan, and more. Operations Analyst/Customer Support
Katie Miller
An article by Thibaut Scholasch of Fruition Sciences
Office Manager/Customer Support
presents new information about how one can analyze Jacki Kardum
vineyard water use profiles in specific areas of the
vineyard and then looks at grape variety-specific sensi- CHAIRMAN
Hugh Tietjen
tivity to water, or to the lack thereof, another step toward
PUBLISHING CONSULTANT
understanding and improving irrigation efficiency. Ken Koppel
Mark Greenspan discusses the findings of the latest
WBM vineyard survey in his regular column. The For editorial or advertising inquiries,
survey also looked at water use. Unfortunately, when it call 707-940-3920 or email
info@winebusiness.com
comes to water efficiency in the vineyard, the glass is
half-full. More vintners are measuring their water use For subscriptions, call 800-895-9463.

not directly affected. Harvest was briefly disrupted but
winds cleared smoke to the southeast and away from
vineyards. Growers and wineries conducted widespread
fruit sampling, checking for elevated levels of precursors
to “smoke taint.” The Lake County Winegrape Commis-
than ever before, but there’s a long way to go. This issue
also marks (pun intended) 10 years of columns written
by Mark and he’s never missed a deadline. That’s quite
an accomplishment. It sure went by quick. Mark brings
a sense of humor along with a deep understanding of
Copyright 2015
Wine Communications Group, Inc.
Short passages can be quoted without
permission but only if the information is
attributed to Wine Business Monthly.
Wine Business Monthly is distributed
through an audited circulation.

sion, Lake County Wine Alliance and Lake County
Winery Association came together to create a fund
with an eye toward long-term rebuilding, as it will take
months, even years to rebuild the affected communities.
viticulture to the column. Cranking out a column of
this caliber is a real challenge, but Mark makes it look
easy. A tip of the hat to Mark Greenspan.
Cyril Penn – Editor
Those interested in subscribing for $39/year,
or $58 for 2 years, call 800-895-9463 or
subscribe online at www.winebusiness.com.
You may also fill out the card in this
magazine and send it in.

4 November 2015 WBM

 contents

winemaking
Different Approaches to Destemming . . . . . . . 22
Understanding the “next generation” of destemmers and the applications
Curtis Phillips
sales & marketing WBM
November 2015 • Volume XXII No. 11 • The Industry’s Leading Publication for Wineries and Growers

Packaging and Design Spotlight

www.winebusiness.com

Differentiating for Success . . . . . . . . . . 70

Even minor design tweaks to your wine’s label, bottle shape and
color, and capsule can improve sales. The key to sales success in an
ever-crowded wine market is differentiation by design.
Michael S. Lasky

Courage in the Cellar: . . . . . 32

Making Wine in Wine and Tipping in Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Will wine sales be affected as restaurants focus on new profit margins?
Northern Michigan . . . . . . . 32 Liza B. Zimmerman
Lance Cutler

Retail Sales Analysis:

W I N E T R I A L S : The
Future Off-Premise Wine Sales Up 5.6 Percent . . . . . . 84
of Wine Science . . . . . . . . . 42
Catena winery sponsors unique research
presentation at UC Davis
Lance Cutler

Basic In-House Wine Analysis for

Boutique to Small Wineries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
technology & business
Jean L. Jacobson
E

Monitoring Nitrogen Levels in Wine . . . 56

Directory: Offsite Barrel Storage . . . . . . . . . . 86
E
P
N N P
E
P N P
N P N
P N
P
N
Jenny Jasinska-Olsen

E
E E
N
7 Nitrogen 14.0067

departments
grape growing month in review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
news . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
2015 Vineyard Survey Report:
Where Do We Get Our Water and
What Are We Doing With It? . . . 58 what’s cool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
It’s no secret. Most growers get their water from Tow and Blow Wind Machines
the ground.
from New Zealand
Mark Greenspan
A versatile new design for frost protection
Bill Pregler
Optimizing Irrigation According
to Grape Variety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 people . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Thibaut Scholasch, PhD, Agro-oenologist, Fruition Sciences Inc. advertiser index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
jake lorenzo Fact Versus Theory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93

winemaker of the month . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94

Fletcher Henderson, winemaker,
Winery at La Grange, Haymarket, Virginia

Cover Photography & Design: Scott Summers Wine Business Monthly (ISSN 1075-7058) is published monthly by Wine Communications Group, Inc., 110 W. Napa St., Sonoma, CA 95476. Subscription
rates are $39 for domestic; US$49 for Canadian and US$89 for foreign subscribers. Periodicals Postage Paid at Sonoma, CA, and at additional mailing offices.
POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Wine Business Monthly, PO Box 1649, Boulder, CO 80306-1649.
who’s talking in this issue
November 2015

WBM
Roger Boulton, professor, UC Davis, Wine Trials: The Future of Wine Science, page 42
“I have waited 25 years to do this kind of research. It would have been a complete
waste of time to attempt before, but now with this new equipment we have here at
the research winery, we are able to exactly replicate each fermentation, isolating out
the specific vineyard contributions.”

Laura Catena, general director, Bodega Catena Zapata, Wine Trials: The Future of Wine Science, page 42
“Our goal in this research is two-fold: we want to elevate our Catena wines to a
level that competes with the finest wines in the world, and we want to share our
knowledge to elevate wine quality for all of Argentina.”

Steve Lamoureux, senior vice president of product innovation and design solutions, Nielsen, Differentiating for Success, page 70
“On a retailer’s shelf, your wine bottle has about 1.4 seconds to get noticed by the
consumer.”

Coenraad Stassen, winemaker, Brys Estate, Making Wine in Northern Michigan, page 32
“Consistency is almost impossible to achieve here. You have to make your stylistic
choices as each vintage proceeds.”

Thibaut Scholasch, agro-enologist, Fruition Sciences Inc., Optimizing Irrigation According to Grape Variety, page 66
“It is possible to improve irrigation strategy and save a lot of water without
degrading vineyard production performance. Traditional viticultural practices
tend to overestimate the need for irrigation, even in areas where water is
becoming scarce. By measuring vine water use variations, vineyard managers and
winemakers may learn how to refine and optimize irrigation strategies.”

8 November 2015 WBM

 The only paper we used this year
is in your hands

These labels are screen printed. That’s right, no paper. Just high
quality ACL or UV inks that make the label speak for itself.

RICHMOND, CA | 877.792.1150 | MONVERA.COM

news
California
Industry Steps Up to Help Fire Victims
A Lake County wildfire that broke out on September 12 and quickly
burned more than 76,000 acres, as of press time, brought out the best of the
wine industry community. In the blaze, which lasted more than two weeks,
1,958 buildings were destroyed, including 1,280 homes, 27 multifamily
structures, 66 commercial properties and 585 other structures. Four people
lost their lives.
The fire tore through Lake County on the tail-end of an early harvest
and luckily most of the grapes near the epicenter had already been picked.
However, some vineyards still had some red varieties on the vine had to pick
the fruit early or risk losing it all.
Langtry Estate, a Foley Family Estates brand, had some damage to
its 1,000 acres of vineyards and a home on the property was destroyed.
Director of marketing for Foley Family Wines Denise Roach was unable
to provide an estimate of total acres burned, and said some grapes would
not be harvested due to “smoke damage.” The historic Lillie Langtry house
remained unscathed.
Shed Horn Cellars in Middletown lost its winery building and owners
Michael and Adawn Wood lost their home. The 3,000-case winery’s tasting
room, however, is still standing. In a statement released through the Lake
County Grapegrowers, the Woods said: “We are saddened about the loss of
our beautiful county and our many friends that have lost their homes. We
are blessed with the outpouring of kindness and thoughts of our personal
friends and friends in the industry. We do have inventory in the warehouse
to keep our orders filled and our tasting room stocked.”
Countless other wineries and tasting rooms were evacuated or closed.
The Valley Fire is the third major blaze to hit the Lake County wine
industry this summer. The Rocky Fire in July burned 69,438 acres and the
Jerusalem Fire in August burned 25,118 acres in Lake and Napa counties,
though neither posed a serious threat to vineyards and wineries.
#LakeCountyRising
#LakeCountyRising is a fundraising effort to support community rebuilding
in the areas ravaged by the Valley Fire with a focus on livelihood, housing
and community needs. The effort was initiated by three Lake County orga-
nizations: Lake County Winegrape Commission, Lake County Winery
Association and Lake County Wine Alliance, a 501(c)(3) non-profit orga-
nization that will manage the collection and distribution of tax-deductible
donations.
Beckstoffer Vineyards announced its donation of $50,000 to the #Lake-
CountyRising fundraising campaign.
“We’re part of the community,” said Andy Beckstoffer, founder, chairman,
and owner of Beckstoffer Vineyards. “We have major vineyard holdings in
Lake County, and many of our people live in Lake County.”
“On behalf of the Lake County community, we are grateful for the
generosity we’re seeing from across the region,” said Debra Sommerfield,
president of the Lake County Winegrape Commission.
10 November 2015 WBM
For daily news you can search or browse by region, visit winebusiness.com/news
news
California
• PAGE 10 Industry Steps Up to Help Fire Victims
• PAGE 12 Bill Leigon Acquires Napa’s Jamieson Ranch Winery
• PAGE 12 American Pioneer Wine Growers Unveils Name of
New Property, Virginia Dare Winery
• PAGE 12 WineSong Raises More Than $600,000 for Charity
Oregon
• PAGE 14 Former J Vineyards & Winery Owner Judy Jordan
Purchases Oregon’s Chehalem Mountain Vineyard
National
• PAGE 14 HR Managers Gather for First Winejobs.com Summit
• PAGE 14 Record 19 New Masters of Wine
The smoky aftermath of the Rocky Fire after it burned a swath of hilly
terrain east of the town of Lower Lake.
“This generous donation by the Beckstoffer family is a wonderful example
of how the wine industry is coming together with significant support,”
Sommerfield said.
Beckstoffer Vineyards farms more than 1,300 acres in the Red Hills of Lake
County, in addition to its 1,000 acres in the Napa Valley and 1,300 acres in
Mendocino County.
“We hope this will motivate other people to give,” Beckstoffer said.
#LakeCountyRising aims to raise significant funds over the coming
weeks and months to help members of the Lake County community cope,
adjust and rebuild after the Valley Fire. #LakeCountyRising is working with
local organizations and government agencies to identify the most pressing
community needs.
To donate, visit the Lake County Rising page on Facebook, www.facebook.
com/LakeCountyRising, to make a donation online using PayPal, or send a
check made payable to Lake County Wine Alliance, memo “Lake County
Rising Fire Relief Fund,” to: Lake County Wine Alliance, P.O. Box 530,
Kelseyville, CA 95451
Jack Daniel’s Encourages Its Friends to Drink Responsibly.
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news
Bill Leigon Acquires Napa’s Jamieson
Ranch Winery
Bill Leigon, president of Jamieson Ranch Vineyards since February 2013,
announced his purchase of the Napa winery, finalized on September 18,
2015. The purchase price was not disclosed. Bill Spear continues to manage
all sales and marketing and was announced as the winery’s general manager
and co-partner.
“I am pleased that I can now complete my vision for Jamieson Ranch
Vineyards. A vision that is nothing less than to make wines that compete in
quality with any wines from the Napa Valley.” said Leigon, “A vision to make
wines that compete in quality with any wines in the world.”
Leigon’s purchase includes all existing brands and inventory, while Ken
Laird bought all the real estate and property, including the winery buildings
and vineyards. Leigon will lease the winery facility back from Laird.
Leigon has been a Napa resident for 35 years and it has been his long-time
dream to own and operate a winery in the Napa Valley.
The purchase price includes the winery property and the case inven-
tory of Jamieson’s Napa Valley wines including Light Horse, JRV Double
Lariat, JRV Stagecoach, JRV Silver Spur, Whiplash and Reata Pinot Noir.
The winery sits on about 300 acres, with 75 acres in grapes which was not
included in the sale.
“I truly believe my professional life of perseverance is paying off,” said
partner and general manager Spear. “I work with a passionate affinity for the
wines I sell and proud to be a partner of Jamieson Ranch.”
Leigon has been involved in the California wine industry for more than
40 years. He co-founded The Wine Trust and Ariel Vineyards (the first
premium non-alcoholic wine), served as national sales manager at J. Lohr
wines for 13 years, and worked as vice president of sales and marketing for
Associated Vintage Group. Leigon spent 12 years as president of Hahn
Estates in Monterey, where he created the popular Rex Goliath brand
(named after a 47-pound rooster). He grew Rex Goliath to national promi-
nence before selling it to Constellation Brands. Right after the sale Leigon
engineered the Cycles Gladiator wines before joining the management of
what is now the Jamieson Ranch wines portfolio.
American Pioneer Wine Growers
Unveils Name of New Property,
Virginia Dare Winery
After more than a year of speculation, American Pioneer Wine Growers
(APWG) unveiled the name of its new property, Virginia Dare Winery.
Located in Sonoma County’s Geyserville, Virginia Dare Winery pays
homage to the influential people, places and stories that are part of the
origins of early American winemaking. Over the past year, APWG has
released a series of four wines—The White Doe, Manteo, Two Arrowheads
and The Lost Colony—each revealing a different aspect of the Virginia Dare
legend ultimately culminating in the unveiling of the new winery name.
“The myth of Virginia Dare always intrigued me, and as a child I remember
the Virginia Dare wine because of the pretty blonde girl on the label and
the ‘Say it again, Virginia Dare’ jingle they used to advertise on the radio,”
said Francis Coppola. “My goal is to revive the wine brand so that it isn’t
lost to future generations. The winery’s new home in Geyserville is the ideal
12 November 2015 WBM
For daily news you can search or browse by region, visit winebusiness.com/news
location in the heart of American wine country to tell the origin stories of
American wine.”
Virginia Dare was the first English child born in the New World to colonists
in 1587. Virginia’s fate became a mystery after her colony, now referred to as
the Lost Colony, vanished from Roanoke Island in the late 1500s. Legend has
it that she lived among the Native Americans and grew into a beautiful young
woman trapped in the middle of a tragic love triangle when she was turned
into a White Doe and ultimately killed. On the very spot where she bled and
died, a grapevine sprouted with its fruit stained red. According to the legend,
this is how the white wine of America became red wine. The grapevine is
widely believed to be the 400-year-old Mother Vine, reportedly the oldest
cultivated grapevine in North America which still exists today—a clipping of
which will soon be planted in Virginia Dare Winery’s estate vineyard.
Today, Virginia Dare Winery celebrates the genesis of American wine-
making. Along with the spellbinding Virginia Dare story, it pays homage to
the mythical and mysterious characters which grace the labels of the wines
The White Doe, Two Arrowheads, Manteo, The Lost Colony, and soon
Virginia Dare Chardonnay and Virginia Dare Pinot Noir, both sourced from
Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley. For more information, visit www.
VirginiaDareWinery.com.
WineSong Raises More Than
$600,000 for Charity
Record ticket sales helped propel Winesong 2015 to another record-setting
weekend of wine, food and fundraising on the Mendocino Coast. “The best
food and wine event in California wrapped up last weekend,” said Narsai
David, KCBS wine and food personality and Winesong Master of Ceremonies.
Guests from as far as Munich, South Africa, Alaska, Anguilla, Texas, Florida,
Alabama, New Hampshire and Connecticut joined in. Bidders at the Wine
and Lifestyle Auction under the tent conducted by DawnMarie Kotsonis and
Rich Pio Roda helped raise significant funds, with a projected gross of more
than $600,000 coming in from the two-day event. After covering produc-
tion expenses, the Winesong net return will be used to assist the Mendocino
Coast District Hospital purchase needed equipment. The highlight of the
auction was the “Fund-A-Need” lot, which brought in $122,000 in a matter
of minutes, with nearly every paddle raised to donate for purchase of Medical
Safety Net. This means that the Bedside Medication Verification System has
been fully funded and will be procured through the combined generosity
of those who gave at the $10,000 level as well as those who stepped up with
$100. Every dollar made a difference.
The highlights of the auction included: a 7-night stay in Tuscany for four
couples that went for $27,000; a chance for three couples to immerse them-
selves in the Italian heritage of Mendocino’s Redwood Valley, which sold for
$6,500; a stay at the Mendocino Coast’s newest luxury destination, the Inn
at Newport Ranch, garnered $8,200; and a barrel of Pinot Noir with grapes
from Ferrington Vineyards with Phillip T. G. Baxter of Baxter Vineyards
overseeing production from grape to bottle, plus custom designed labels.
The Mendocino Coast Hospital Foundation/Winesong donated the $3,000
raised from Lot #47, “Lake County Rising,” to disaster relief. In addition, all
surplus water, blankets and other supplies of any use have been given to Lake
County residents who found themselves on the Mendocino coast and unable
to return home.
COME TOGETHER

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 news
Oregon
Former J Vineyards & Winery Owner
Judy Jordan Purchases Oregon’s
Chehalem Mountain Vineyard
Judy Jordan, former owner of J Vineyards & Winery, has purchased
Chehalem Mountain Vineyard in Oregon’s Willamette Valley as well as
another property in St. Helena, California that was owned by Pat Kuleto.
These purchases will be placed under a new Santa Rosa company, The Capra
Co., which will fund a nonprofit arm to mentor youth.
The vineyard acquisitions include:

• Chehalem Mountain Vineyard — Chehalem Mountain AVA, Newberg,

Oregon (35 acres planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay -
75 total acres)
• Eola Springs Vineyard — Eola Amity Hills AVA, Rickreall, Oregon
(72 acres primarily planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay -
176.2 total acres)
• Sage Canyon Vineyard — Napa Valley AVA, St. Helena, California
(60 acres primarily planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and
Cabernet Franc - 602 total acres)
Terms of the sale were not disclosed for either purchase, but the Chehalem
property asking price had been listed at $1.25 million. Chehalem was estab-
lished in 1968 by Dick Erath, and produces old-vine selections of Pinot Noir,
Riesling, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay. The vineyard consists of almost 50 acres
divided into two parcels. Its owner at the time of sale was George Hillberry.
 Jordan, who founded Sonoma County-based J Vineyards in 1986, sold
that business to E&J Gallo in March, and although the purchase price was
not disclosed, industry analysts estimated the overall deal to be worth as
much as $90 million.

National
HR Managers Gather for First
Winejobs.com Summit
More than 60 winery human relations managers congregated on September
17 to connect with their peers and discuss current HR topics at the first
Winejobs.com Summit, a one-of-a-kind gathering of wine industry HR
professionals.
Topics included hiring trends, results of the Wine Business Monthly 2015
Salary Survey Report, performance reviews and incentive compensation in
the tasting room as well as roundtable networking discussions.
Winejobs.com, the wine industry’s leading online job site, presented the
Winejobs.com Summit, the forum for HR professionals, which took place in
The Barrel Room at V Marketplace in the Napa Valley.

Contact us for
samples, quotes Record 19 New Masters of Wine
The Institute of Masters of Wine announced that a record number of 19
& information. candidates passed the Institute’s examination and earned the title Master
of Wine (MW). The new MWs, 11 women and eight men, hail from 10
Shortest delivery time from our California warehouse countries, including Australia, Canada, Finland, Germany, Greece, Japan,
New Zealand, the United Kingdom and the United States. The Institute of
Masters of Wine is also welcomed its first Singaporean member.
1304 Scott St., Suite B, Petaluma, CA 94954 (707) 765-6252
The 19 new Masters of Wine join the five MWs announced on March
info@mala-usa.com www.mala-usa.com
20 this year, bringing the total number of Masters of Wine to 340, from 24
countries. WBM

14 November 2015 WBM

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INNOVATION+QUALITY
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focused on innovations that advance wine quality.

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C O M M U N I T Y PA R T N E R PRESENTED BY

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It’s official.

For more information call 707-940-3920, or visit www.winebusinessIQ.com

03.04.15

Wine Business Monthly hosted the first Innovation + Quality conference, an exclusive gathering for ultra-
premium wineries dedicated to the concept of using innovation to advance wine quality.

400 winemakers there performed a taste test comparing BRONZE SPONSORS

wines made in oak, stainless steel and concrete.

It was not necessary to count the votes.

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Let us know when you’re ready.


A To Z Wineworks
Adelsheim Vineyard
American Pioneer
Winegrowers-The White Doe
Amici Cellars
Antica Napa Valley
Appellations/Italics
Winegrowers
Araujo Estate Wines
Artesa Vineyards & Winery
Aubert Wines
Aver Family Vineyards
Baldacci Family Vineyards
Ballentine Vineyards
Baxter Winery/
Philippe-Lorraine Wine
Beaulieu Vineyard
Bedrock Wine Co.
Bella Vineyards & Wine Caves
Benessere Vineyards
Benziger Family Winery
Bevan Cellars
Bin to Bottle Winery
Black Hills Estate Winery
Blackbird Vineyards
Bokisch Vineyards
Edge Hill/Rudd Oakville Estate
Bourassa Vineyards
Brack Mountain Wine Co./
Enos Vineyards
Bremer Family Winery
Brian Arden Wines
Brick & Mortar/
MSix Wine Group
Burgess Cellars
C K Mondavi
Cakebread Cellars
Calcareous Vineyard
Francis Ford Coppola Winery
Caldwell Winery
Calera Wine Co.
Calluna Vineyards
Campana Ranch Winery
Canihan Family Winery
Cardinale & Lokoya
Carneros Vintners
Catena Zapata
Groth Vineyards & Winery
Celia Welch Wines
Chappellet Winery
Charthia Cellars
Chateau Boswell
Chateau Margene
Chateau Montelena Winery
Chateau St. Jean Winery
& Vineyards
Clos Du Val Wine Co.
Colgin Cellars
College Cellars of Walla Walla
Columbia Crest Winery
Conarium Wines
Conn Creek Winery
S I LV E R S P O N S O R S
Wineries that attended IQ 2015
Constant-Diamond
Mountain Vineyard
Constellation Wines
Continuum Estate
Corison Winery
Courtesan Wines J Lohr Vineyards & Wines
Covert Estate
Covington Cellars
Creekside Cellars
Croma Vera Wines Jamieson Ranch Vineyards
Cuvaison Estate Wines
Dalla Valle Vineyards
DAOU Vineyards
Dark Matter Wines Joseph Phelps Vineyards/
David Fulton Winery
Del Dotto Vineyards
Detert Family Vineyards
Domaine Anderson
Domaine Carneros
Dominus Estate
Don Sebastiani & Sons
Donum Estate
Duckhorn Vineyards
DuMOL Winery
E & J Gallo Winery
Elyse Winery
Envolve Winery
Epoch Estate Wines
Long Meadow Ranch Winery
Expression Wine
Lucia Vineyards & Winery/
Fantesca Estate & Winery
Far Niente Winery MacRostie Winery & Vineyards
Farm Collective Winery
Fazeli Cellars
Fisher Vineyards
Marimar Estate Vineyards
Frank Family Vineyards
Frog’s Leap Winery
Gandona Estate Northwest Wine Filtration
Geyser Peak Winery Mauritson Family Winery
Goosecross Cellars
Greyscale Wines
Grochau Cellars
Hagafen Cellars
Hall Wines
Halter Ranch Vineyard
Hanzell Vineyards
Hartwell Vineyards
Heitz Wine Cellars
Herb Lamb Vineyards
Heringer Estates
Hess Collection Winery
Hill Family Estate
Hindsight Wines
Holman Ranch
Honig Vineyard & Winery
Hope & Grace Wines Napa Wine Co.- Signorello Estate
House Family Winery Bonded Winery Number 9 Silver Oak Cellars
Ideology Cellars Newsome-Harlow Winery
Sinclair Estate Vineyards
Inglenook Nichelini Family Winery
Sinegal Family Estate
Invisible Hand Wines Nickel & Nickel
Sloan Estate
Nicolette Christopher Cellars
Sonoma Valley Custom Wine
J Vineyards & Winery Olabisi Wines
Sonoma-Cutrer Vineyards
Jackson Family Wines O’Neill Vintners & Distillers
South Coast Winery,
James Family Cellars Orpheus Wines
Resort & Spa
O’Shaughnessy Estate Winery
Spottswoode Winery
Jarvis Other Guys
Spring Mountain Vineyard
Jessie’s Grove Winery Ovid Napa Valley
St. Supéry Estate
Joel Gott Wines Paoletti Estates Winery
Vineyards & Winery
Paradox Wines
Staglin Family Vineyard
Freestone Vineyards Parrish Family Vineyard
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars
Kaz Winery Passalacqua Winery
Ste. Michelle Wine Estates/
Kelly Fleming Wines Pasterick Wine-
Chateau Ste. Michelle
King Estate Winery Vineyard of Pasterick
Steele Canyon Cellars
Kitchak Cellars Paul Hobbs
Steltzner Vineyards
Kosta Browne Wines Perkins & Harter
Sterling Vineyards
Kuleto Estate Winery Phifer Pavitt Wines
Steven Kent Portfolio
Ladera Vineyards Pine & Brown Winery
Lancaster Estate Pine Ridge Vineyards Stonestreet
Larkmead Vineyards Plan B Wine Cellars Storybook Mountain
Las Positas Vineyards Vineyards
Plata Wine Partners
Swanson Vineyards & Winery
Lasseter Family Winery Plumpjack Winery
Laura Michael Wines Ponzi Vineyards Talbott Vineyards
& Zahtila Vineyards Talisman Wines
Pott Wine
L’Ecole No 41 Tangles Vineyard and Winery
Purple Wine & Spirits Co./
Sonoma Wine Co. Terroir Napa Valley Wines
Quintessa Vineyards
Pisoni Family Testarossa Winery
Quivira Vineyards Three Sticks/
Quixote Winery Price Family Vineyards
Mahoney Vineyards
Ranch Winery Toquade Wines/
Marciano Estate -
Ravenswood Winery Christine’s Wines
Napa Vineland Winery
Raymond Vineyards Tournesol Wine
& Winery Realm Cellars Trahan Winery
Martinelli Winery Reynolds Family Winery Trattore Estate Wines
Matteo Wines- Ridge Vineyards Treasury Wine Estates
Robert Biale Vineyards Treefort
Robledo Family Winery Valley View Vintners
Maxville Lake Winery
Rocca Family Vineyards Vincent Arroyo Winery
Mayacamas Vineyards
Rombauer Vineyards
McEvoy Ranch Vindemia Vineyards & Winery
Rosenblum Cellars
Meander Wines Vineyard 29
Rudd Wines Winery
Melrose Vineyards Vineyard 7 & 8
Rutherford Grove Winery
Merryvale Vineyards Vivier
Rutherford Hill Winery/
Merus Wines Terlato Wines Willamette Valley Vineyards
Michael Mondavi Saintsbury William Harrison
Family Estate
Vineyards & Winery
Schramsberg Vineyards
Miner Family Winery & J Davies Vineyards Windsor Oaks Winery
Monticello Vineyards
Schug Carneros Estate Winery Wine Foundry
Mueller Winery/ Schweiger Vineyards & Winery
Robert Mueller Cellars Wine Group
Screaming Eagle Winery Winery Exchange
Mumm Napa
Napa Cellars Seghesio Family Vineyards Wise Villa Winery
Napa Valley College Seven Stones Winery Wood Family Vineyards
Estate Winery Shafer Vineyards & Winery
Napa Valley Reserve Shale Oak Winery Z D Wines
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 what’s cool
Products that are smart, make your tasks easier and provide cost or labor savings

Bill Pregler

Bill Pregler has Tow and Blow Wind

Machines from New Zealand
worked in the
winery equipment
industry for many
years and is a staff
writer for Wine
Business Monthly. A versatile new design for frost protection

TOW AND BLOW

THERE IS NO ONE perfect method of frost protection, but there is a
versatile new wind machine design that is worth checking out: a new wind
machine where you raise the engine and propeller assembly 27 feet into the
air on an articulating boom.
This is an internationally field-tested design and works for a myriad of
agribusiness tasks, beginning with frost protection for vineyards, orchards
and row crops. The portable structure is mounted on a trailer for transport
down the road or throughout the vineyard.
Kim McAulay, a really smart engineer in New Zealand with extensive
agricultural credentials, did the homework and named his versatile new
design the Tow and Blow. The product now has global distribution from
Germany to Turkey to Canada, and finally arrived in the United States thanks
to importer Chamberlin Agriculture (located in the Northwest) that learned
of the unit from a colleague in Chile.
I have written extensively about frost protection and how growers must
be proactive with risk management1. Along the way we have learned that
there are two types of protection available to growers. First is passive protec-
tion, as in proper site selection, cover crops or timely pruning. Second is
active protection, such as sprinklers, cold air drains, weather stations and, of
course, wind machines.
I really like the Tow and Blow because it brings some refreshing new design
concepts to the market. Recently I met up with an old pal, Jerry Smith of
BelKor Ag, LLC, one of the largest John Deere distributors in Northern
California. There was a field trip on tap to visit Napa Valley for a demo.
The Design
The Engine: The key words for this blower are efficiency, compactness and
portability. It all begins with a light-weight, highly reliable power plant from
Honda, which means there is universal maintenance and parts support
throughout the world. It is the air-cooled Model GX690 (688 cc) Honda
V-Twin with electric start and it burns just 1 gallon of fuel per hour. This
Footnote:
1
“Product Review: Frost Protection—Managing the Air,” January 2010, WBM
and “Proactive Vineyard Frost Protection,” December 2013, WBM.

18 November 2015 WBM


TOW AND BLOW
overhead valve, commercial-duty engine has been a mainstay in commer-
cial applications for many years, produces a rated 23 HP and meets all U.S.
emission standards.
Compact within a 16 by 16 by 171/2 inch footprint, it weighs only 110
pounds. The unit features an auto-start that can be programmed to frost
temperature alerts. Fuel is stored in two 8-gallon, white, see-through poly
tanks beside the engine so the operator can monitor fuel levels even from
the pickup.
Immediately at the drive shaft is a simple, three-belt reduction drive (no
gears), which then pushes a composite, three-bladed, truncated fan inside a
ducted housing.
The Fan Blades: Everyone should know propeller efficiency and noise
reduction are generally the result of controlling what happens at the tip of
the blade. When a Cessna 172 flies overhead, the noise is not so much the
engine but inefficient propeller tips (think blade circumference and high tip
speeds) beating up the air.
With the Tow and Blow, blade tips are cut off and then ducted within a
360-degree shroud. A shrouded blade essentially works like a turbo charger,
BILL PREGLER
The electric start 23 HP Honda V-Twin engine burns
only 1 gallon of fuel per hour.
producing highly concentrated airflows with maximized velocity and volume.
They travel long, straight distances before dissipating.
As a bonus, the company includes straightening vanes beyond the shroud
to further assist in smooth columns of air up to 650 feet. This should easily
handle 10 acres. Finally, as mentioned, ducted props without tips produce
very low sound decibels for the benefit of your neighbors.
By making the three blades out of glass-reinforced, polyamide plastic, you
dramatically reduce weight and minimize a centrifugal vector load, which
increases stability. While the blade pitch can be changed, I would go with
factory recommendations as any mistake in adjustment will result in out-of-
balance blades and serious problems at high RPMs.
A traditional tower machine with a power unit positioned on the ground
drives a propeller 30 feet in the air via bevel gears, 90-degree gear boxes and
long drive-shafts. With the Tow and Blow, the engine sits directly behind the
fan, eliminating all that weight, and the complete assembly can now be raised
into the air with the boom.
The Boom
The direction of airflow is adjustable, the entire boom can be raised or
lowered to any desired height, and the vertical direction of airflow (pointing
up or down) adjusts as the engine fan assembly tilts. The entire boom struc-
ture is mounted on a powered turntable base with speed control, offering
continuous 360 degrees of horizontal rotation or oscillations to whatever
degree suits the vineyard needs. Perhaps the grower wants to target a
confined frost zone and only needs 30 to 40 degrees of coverage. This degree
of versatility will accommodate a range of grape growers, from 20 acres or
less, to large operations with specific problem areas in larger blocks.
The turntable is run with a DC hydraulic power pack and battery, which is
continuously charged while the engine is running. Thereafter, there is a solar
panel to maintain battery levels while not in use.
WBM November 2015 19
what’s cool: Tow and Blow Wind Machines from New Zealand

What’s Cool
Wind machines are highly effective and can vary
widely in design. My past product reviews have
featured spot-on, cold-air drains from Shur Farms
or towers for larger acreage from Orchard Supply.
Each offers good results, and all work well in their
specific applications.
What’s cool about the design of the Tow and Blow
is that it is so versatile. It is designed by ag people for
ag people to meet a wide range of agricultural needs,
and is engineered for efficiency, ease of operation,
transport and maintenance.
Finally, they have a misting accessory kit that injects
water spray into the airflow for evaporative cooling
in dairies, barns and warehouses. They even apply
organic spray coverage to discourage birds. WBM
For more information, contact: Tow and Blow USA
(www.towandblowusa.com) or Chamberlin Agricul-
ture (www.chamberlinag.com) at 206-437-8738.

BILL PREGLER

Four leg extensions with leveling adjustments provide

a wide base for stability.

The Trailer
Portability is key. The entire boom and engine assembly folds nicely onto a
20-foot, single axle, galvanized trailer with only a 5½ foot wheelbase, allowing
access onto the vineyard and site location. Stability is achieved, once the trailer
is in position, by simply extending four legs with leveling adjustments.
I watched as a unit was unhooked from a tractor on an unimproved
location and was operating in minutes. When finished, the blower is returned
to the equipment yard and stored. It is so compact that Tow and Blow in New
Zealand can ship four units sub-assembled around the world in containers. It
is my understanding that future sales will be fully assembled and inventoried
at local dealers.

Maintenance and Warranty

There really is not much to do other than change engine oil, filters and grease
some zerts per the manufacturer’s specifications. What is really cool is that
the articulating boom allows for the business end to be lowered to ground
level for any work. Again, if anything should go wrong (power plant-wise)
you have Honda engines as a resource. Factory Honda offers a three-year
warranty, and Tow and Blow offers an additional two-year warranty on
the rest of the machine. In my experience, if you should time out a Honda
engine, simply throw it away. Replacement cost for the Tow and Blow is
about $1,200. There are absolutely no specialized parts as everything is off
the shelf.

BILL PREGLER

The control box also houses the DC hydraulic power pack

and continuously charged battery.

20 November 2015 WBM

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winemaking

Different Understanding the “next generation” of

Approaches to destemmers and the applications
Curtis Phillips, an editor
Destemming Curtis Phillips for Wine Business
Monthly since 2000,
is a graduate of UC
Davis, and has been a
winemaker since 1984
and an agricultural
consultant since 1979.

NOT SO LONG AGO, most high-end destem-

mers looked similar to each other. Pretty much
all of them consisted of a rotating cylinder with
more or less grape-sized holes, called a cage, and
had a co-rotating set of “fingers” or beaters that
rotated at a slightly different speed than the cage.
Clusters went in one end, the berries were detached
by spinning around inside the rotating cage and
brushing against the holes, and stems came out the
other end.
The two big destemming innovations I saw
during my early career were the switch from steel
blades to neoprene “fingers” on the beater-shaft and
the switch from crushing before destemming to
crushing after destemming. When I started out in
the United States wine industry, it was still consid-
ered a little unusual to have a destemmer-crusher
rather than a crusher-destemmer. The innovation
to crush after destemming rather than before was
no doubt conceived decades before I saw my first
Delta destemmer-crusher. There are still crusher-
destemmers in production and in operation today,
of course, but for several decades it seemed that the
spinning beaters-in-a-spinning-cage design was
the last word in destemming.
About 10 years ago, I started seeing destemmers
that approached the problem of getting the grapes
off the rachis differently. I refer to these as “next
generation” destemmers.

22 November 2015 WBM

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Delta Oscillys
The Delta Oscillys, built by Bucher Vaslin, is an interesting re-think of the Vineyard and Winery
destemmer. The design is unlike anything I’ve seen before. The destemmer
cage is mounted at an angle. Without actually measuring it, I’d say it was
about 40 degrees from horizontal. There is no central pin-sharf or beater bar
either. The cage doesn’t spin but moves in a conical hulu motion. I was able
to see the Delta Oscillys in action a few years ago. I was very impressed with
the quality of the destemmed fruit coming out of it.
The Delta Oscillys currently has two models. One with a single cage and
one with a double cage that can process up to about 20 tons per hour.

PELLENC AMERICA INC

3171 Guerneville Rd, Santa Rosa, CA 95401
www.pellenc.com • (707) 568-7286

WBM November 2015 23

Different Approaches to Destemming

Milani Estasi
The Milani Estasi is a flat, rather than cylindrical,
destemmer. It uses a knobby, flexible overhand belt to
draw the clusters across a vibrating grid. The berries
come off the stem, fall through the grid intact and the
large MOG tumbles off the end.
Milani’s new belt destemmer is a fresh take on getting
berries off the stem as gently as possible. The Estasi is
somewhat defined by what it doesn’t have. It doesn’t
have a beating shaft, a cage or “centrifugal” force, and
the clusters are not torn apart from the rachis. The
grapes are dumped on the top conveyor and brought
down into the destemming portion of the Estasi. A
knobby belt pulls the grapes over a transverse oscil-
lating screen that separates the berries from the rachis.
In effect, the berries are brushed off the rachis. As the
berries fall through the screen the rachis continues
forward into a waste bin.
Like most of the equipment on this list, I haven’t had
the chance to use it myself. Judging from the videos
I’ve seen, however, the action looks extremely gentle.
Like any high-end destemmer, the Estasi is supposed to
perform best when it’s fed as evenly as possible. For this
reason, I would recommend that the crush pad is set up
with dump bins into a hopper which, in turn, empties
onto a vibrating table before the destemmer; but this is
the same sort of recommendation I’d make for a more
conventional destemmer. The Estasi destemmer could
be fed by an auger, but that probably defeats the purpose
of having such a gentle destemmer. The Milani Estasi
has a maximum throughput of about 5 tons per hour.

24 November 2015 WBM

 Different Approaches to Destemming

Pellenc Process Selectiv Winery

To me, the Pellenc Process Selectiv Winery functions like a miniaturized
mechanical harvester, although if I mention this to any Pellenc personnel,
they seem surprised at the comparison. Certainly, there some differences.
For one thing, rather than moving along a trellis of vines, grape clusters are
moved through the Process Selectiv Winery by means of a clever double
belt. The lower belt is a grid that allows detached berries to fall through but
it moves at the same pace as the clusters through the destemmer in order to

BUY SELL
minimize the number of broken berries and jacks. Juice, shot berries and
MOG drop into one auger, berries into another, and any larger-than-berry-
sized MOG into a third. The output from the juice auger can be screened to
remove any MOG but the separate discharge also allows the winemaker to
reserve or combine the juice with the intact berries as desired. Personally,
since this is primarily juice form berries broken in transport, I would keep it
separate at least until it could be evaluated for undesired oxidation.

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Different Approaches to Destemming
Scharfenberger Euroselect
I first saw a Scharfenberger Euroselect, available in the U.S. from Euro
Machines, in Europe about 10 years ago. At first glance, the Euroselect
could be mistaken for an incline conveyor rather than recognized as being
a destemmer. The Euroselect uses four rotating “fingers” to push the grapes
off the rachis and through the grid of the conveyor.
The destem rollers can be adjusted to rotate at different speeds, which
aids in berry selection. This last feature is something one would expect to
28 November 2015 WBM
be important for high-end German white wine production where the entire
prädikatswein grading system is built around the degree to which individual
berries are selected. “Trockenbeerenauslese,” for example, literally means
dried berry selection, whereas “beerenauslese” means selected berries and
“auslese” means selected harvest with cluster selection implied. The Eurose-
lect can aid the triage of berries for selection in these grades of prädikatswein.
In the U.S., a lot of installations seem to be at wineries that specialize in the
production of red varietals like Pinot Noir.
A few U.S. wineries, including Airlie Winery, Utopia Vineyard and Arbor
Brook Vineyards in Oregon, and Premium Wine Group on Long Island,
have units. Airlie winemaker Elizabeth Clark has been using a Euroselect
for several vintages. “I have been very happy with Euroselect. I really like the
whole berry component which seems to lessen seed contact with the juice.
Being in the Willamette Valley with typically cooler harvests, we often have
less-ripe seeds and the seed tannins are not necessarily desirable,” Clark said.
“This year the Marechal Foch was done at about 1.5 tons per hour, and we
usually run about 2 to 2.5 tons per hour. That seems to give us the cleanest
stems with the least amount of damage to the fruit. Fruit quality also has a
huge impact on speed, as the ability of the fingers to knock the berries off
the rachis varies greatly with water content, ripeness and health of the fruit.”
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our R & D capabilities. Plus, we’re adding extra warehouse space for inventory.

Solid growth like this stems from our unshakeable commitment: to be better,
and offer more, to discriminating winemakers.

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The Socma Cube

The Socma Cube was something of an unexpected addition to the list of
next-generation destemmers. Socma is an established French mechanical
engineering firm based in Narbonne and specializes in winery and indus-
trial equipment, but I hadn’t noticed their products in the U.S. before Valley
Pipe & Supply started showing off the Cube. The Cube does a lot in a
fairly small space. The principle of operation is a little similar to the Pellenc
Selectiv Process Winery insofar as the Cube also uses flexible “fingers” or
beaters akin to those used by a mechanical grape harvester to knock the
berries off the stems, and rollers to separate the berries and MOG, but this
seems to be more of a form-following function coincidence than any shared
heritage. The grapes drop vertically into the vibrating beaters which knock
the berries off the stems. The stems, berries and any MOG drop onto a
vibrating hopper. Any juice drops straight through to a screened sump; the
berries, stems and large MOG are carried to a separate discharge.

Armbruster Rotovib
Even though one could argue that it’s a departure from the criteria I listed
above, I’ve included the Armbruster Rotovib
as one of my “next generation”
destemmers because it stands
somewhere between conven-
tionally designed destemmers
and the more iconoclastic designs
I’ve already discussed. The Rotovib
has also had a decent adoption rate in
the U.S. wine industry.
Armbruster’s Rotovib destemmer models
are somewhat different from a conventional
destemmer in that the beater-bar vibrates a few
millimeters back and forth along its rotational axis in addition to rotating
inside the cylindrical destemmer cage. This vibration shakes the grapes off
the rachis, which allows the Rotovib to have a beater bar that rotates about
half as fast, relative to the rotation of the cage, as in previous, non-Rotovib
designs. The end result is more whole berries and fewer jacks. In North
America, Armbruster is represented by Scott Laboratories.
The German-made Armbruster destemmers have a reputation for being
especially gentle at destemming. Among the winemakers I’ve talked to over
the years, those using Armbruster destemmers were all quite enthusiastic
about them. Indeed, I’ve never met a winemaker with one that didn’t voice
the opinion that they’re the best destemmers they’ve used.

30 November 2015 WBM


Not Crushing Anymore
I suspect that my obsession with gentle destemmers is a product of my desire
to have the grapes delivered to the press or fermentor as destemmed, but
otherwise intact, berries. For the most part, I stopped using crushers almost
20 years ago. In my own winemaking, and when I have a choice, I don’t
use a crusher for anything except for relatively slimy and hard-to-press
white varieties like Muscat, Symphony and possibly Riesling. If I can, I use
the press as my “crusher” for my whites. Fermentation, must transfers and
pump-overs or punch-downs are my preferred methods for “crushing” red
varieties. All the same, it’s probably a good idea to have a crusher at
the winery. I like Demoisy’s stand-alone crusher, but most destem-
mers have crushers as an option. Just make sure it can be bypassed
or moved out of the way to destem without crushing.
Choosing the Right Destemmer
The destemmer capacity is as good a place to start the process of
selecting a destemmer as any. All the destemmers discussed have
capacities up to 5 tons per hour or up to between 20 and 30 tons
per hour. This means that these destemmers are most likely to find
homes at smaller wineries. Clark with Airlie Winery noted that the
capacity of the Scharfenberger Euroselect was a good match for
her winery. “It is a slow machine and we are probably about the
right size to own one,” she said. “Much smaller than this and the
cost would be prohibitive and much larger and speed would be the
issue. I don’t think we have ever processed at 5 tons per hour.”
New Approaches to Old Problems
It seems to me that the U.S. wine industry is more reluctant to embrace new
technologies than it could be. Too often anything “new” won’t be considered
until the gee-wiz shine has tarnished to old-hat. The fact that something
is newer doesn’t mean that it is intrinsically better, of course. No single
destemmer design will be the correct one for every winery either. My goal in
highlighting these destemmers is to make sure that winemakers look further
than the destemmers that everyone else is using. WBM
WBM November 2015 31
winemaking

Courage in the Cellar:

Making Wine in Northern Michigan

Lance Cutler

Lance Cutler has been a working winemaker in Sonoma County for 35 years. He has been a
contributing editor for Wine Business Monthly for more than 10 years. His unique perspective
on winemaking has led to our Industry Roundtable series and our Varietal Focus series. Lance
is also the author of four books, including The Tequila Lover’s Guide to Mexico.

When Lee Lutes, winemaker/distiller/general manager of Black Star Farms, saw this, he said, “Perfect for Pinot Noir.”

LEELANAU PENINSULA SOUNDS LIKE some exotic place in Hawaii.
It conjures up visions of bronzed girls sensuously dancing the hula while
strapping young men dig a pit to roast a pig. The trade winds blow gently,
coconuts drop from trees, and when the waves are just right, you might go
out on your surfboard.
Not so fast.
Leelanau Peninsula is the heart of wine country in Northern Michigan.
It features some of the most fearless, tenacious winemakers in the world.
In winter their grapevines are buried under 10 to 20 feet of snow. Frost is a
common occurrence in May. Average rainfall for each of the September and
October harvest months is more than 3 inches per month. In 2014, many
wineries lost 95 percent of their crop. This year they are hoping to lose only
90 percent. They fight powdery mildew, Botrytis, birds and even raccoons.
These winemakers come from all over the world. They are heroes, and this
is their story.
Up in Northern Michigan, two peninsulas jut out into Grand Traverse Bay.
The one sitting in the middle of the bay is called Old Mission Peninsula.
The one between the bay and Lake Michigan to the west is called Leelanau
Peninsula. Just south of the two peninsulas sits the town of Traverse City,
the largest city of the 21 counties in northern Michigan even though city
residents number only 14,700 and the entire metropolitan area clocks in
under 144,000 inhabitants.
The area has a long history of significant agriculture, with Michigan being
recognized as this country’s second most diverse agricultural state. Renowned
for cherries, Traverse City is known as the Cherry Capital of the World, and
more than 500,000 visitors attend the annual Cherry Festival in July.
While Michigan has a history of growing grapes (mostly table) dating back
to the 1800s, it wasn’t until 1965 that Bernie Rink planted the first modern
vineyard using French-American hybrids. In 1968, Leonard Olsen and Carl
Banholzer planted the first vinifera in the state: Chardonnay and Riesling.
In 1970, Rink planted Northern Michigan’s first commercial vineyard, and
in 1972 Leonard Olsen opened Tabor Hill Winery in Southern Michigan
and sold the first bottle of vinifera wine from the area. Other pioneering
wineries followed with Ed O’Keefe opening Chateau Grand Traverse and
Rink opening Boskydel Vineyards, both in 1976, followed by Larry Mawby
opening L. Mawby Winery in 1978.
Today, more than half of the state’s 2,650 acres of winegrapes are grown
in the Traverse City area, and half of those vineyards have been planted in
the last 10 years. Currently, there are eight wineries on Old Mission Penin-
sula and another 25 on Leelanau Peninsula. Those wineries are producing
surprisingly delicious, world-class Rieslings. They also dabble in Pinot Noir,
Cabernet Franc, Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay, along with other varieties.

32 November 2015 WBM

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Making Wine in Northern Michigan
The “lake effect” brings snow to the vineyard as arctic air picks up moisture from the
warmer lake water and delivers heavy snowfall, insulating vines from extreme cold.
The “Lake Effect”
The region works for grapes because of the “lake effect.” Lake Michigan
and the adjoining Traverse Bay are large, deep bodies of water. As arctic
air sweeps down from the north in the winter, it picks up moisture from
the warmer lake water and delivers heavy snowfall. This snow covers the
vines and serves as insulation to protect them from extreme cold. The lake
waters cool during winter. In early spring, cool weather systems passing
over the lake slow budbreak, which provides some additional protection
from spring frosts. In the early summer, the cold lake water evaporates and
helps cool the vineyards. The lake warms up during the summer months.
By fall it warms the air passing over, extending the growing season for
vineyards close to the lake.
This lake effect works great in theory, and it has allowed vineyards to
prosper in places like Michigan and the Finger Lakes in New York. Unfortu-
nately, if the lakes freeze in the winter, there is no lake effect. When the lake
effect doesn’t operate, there is not enough snow to cover and insulate the
grapevines, or it gets so cold, the snow doesn’t help. Simply put, the vines can
freeze to death.
Larry Mawby is one of the true winemaking pioneers of Leelanau Peninsula.
He grew up in Michigan as part of a farming family. While in college working
on an English degree from Michigan State University, Mawby hitchhiked
through Europe one summer and developed a liking for French wines.
34 November 2015 WBM
Returning home, he went into the family business but decided to try his hand
at grape growing and winemaking on the side. One of the first to plant in the
area in 1973, he doggedly worked at learning which varieties would fare well,
experimenting with hybrids and then some vinifera. He opened his winery
in 1978, producing a variety of wines. In 1984, he began producing the first
methode champenoise sparkling wine in Northern Michigan.
Mawby feels that site location is critical to making fine wines in Northern
Michigan. Vineyards need to be planted on slopes to take full advantage of the
lake effect. In the late spring on frosty mornings, the cold air, being heavier
than the warm air, flows down the slopes into the valley, sparing the buds
from freezing. Slopes should face south, southeast or southwest to receive
sunlight better. The short growing season demands that growers squeeze out
every bit of heat and sunlight they can get. Those south-facing slopes warm
up early in the day and stay warmer in the evening.
Even with the benefit of a prime vineyard site, Michigan weather can cause
problems. Mawby explained, “Because of all the winter snow, my vines have
double trunks and a spare insurance spur near the ground that we use in case
of a freeze. We grow the vines low to the ground to benefit from reflected
heat. The top wire is 5 feet, and the fruit zone is between 24 and 30 inches.
Vines are low vigor and require neither fruit drop nor leaf pulling.”
Vintages were pretty good, by Northern Michigan standards, for about five
years, culminating with the largest vintage ever in 2013, which produced a
Making Wine in Northern Michigan
record 7,600 tons of winegrapes. It was a record crop, and good growing
conditions produced fine wines, but now winemakers are dealing with their
second straight brutal winter. The lake has frozen over both years, negating
much of the lake effect.
In Northern Michigan, grape growing is survival of the fittest. Coenraad
Stassen, winemaker for Brys (rhymes with “eyes”) Estate, was born in
Western Cape, South Africa. After eight years’ working in the Klein Karoo
region, he came to Old Mission Peninsula through an international exchange
program sponsored by Ohio State University. In his eight years at Brys
Estate, he has garnered more than 350 medals in national and international
competitions. “Each vintage presents a different challenge,” he explained.
“Consistency is almost impossible to achieve here. You have to make your
stylistic choices as each vintage proceeds.”
In the winter of 2013-2014, 90 percent of Lake Michigan froze. There was
no lake effect, and most of the primary and secondary buds were wiped out.
Then it rained almost every day in September. “There was no way for me to
make red wine that year,” Stassen explained disconsolately. Stassen’s harvest
Brys Estate uses a special plow that pushes snow to cover vineyards.
36 November 2015 WBM
in 2014 was only 20 percent of what he brought in the previous year. He
made no red wine, turning all of his red grapes into Rosé.
This past year, faced with another bleak winter, Stassen tried tying canes
onto the low irrigation wire. He then used a blade attached to his tractor to
push snow in between the rows up onto the vines until they were covered. It
seemed to help. Despite a severe late freeze on May 20, he estimates that he
will only lose 50 percent of his crop this year. “Hopefully we won’t be deluged
with rain during harvest, and I can make red wine again.”
Sean O’Keefe, winemaker for Villa Mari Vineyards, is the second son
of Ed O’Keefe from the area’s largest winery, Chateau Grand Traverse. He
earned a degree in German literature in the U.S. and then went to Germany
in 1994 to apprentice at Weingut Jakob Pfleger in the Pfalz. Enamored
with winemaking he went to wine school in Neustadt and then transferred to
the wine university at Geisenheim, spending time with several of Germany’s
cutting-edge Riesling producers.
Returning home to the family business at Chateau Grand Traverse (CGT),
he headed up the vineyard operations, gently moving things in the organic
direction while he assisted winemaker Bernd Croissant. He eventually
created a new brand of wine for the winery called CGT Eclectic. The brand
featured distinctive labels and eclectic wines, like Vin Gris of Pinot Noir,
Grüner Veltliner and Ship of Fools (Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, White Pinot
Noir), but focused on variations of Riesling, including his Lot 49 Riesling
made from a single vineyard using minimalist techniques, fermented and
aged in German oak ovals.
Perhaps because O’Keefe is native to the area, he tends to accept the vagaries
of weather in Northern Michigan as a more normal occurrence. “Damage to
vineyards in the area is very erratic,” he said. “Having enough snow cover
helps protect the vines. Higher elevation vineyards seem to survive better
than lower vineyards, and you never know in advance which vineyards will
have enough snow and which ones won’t.”
He has tried covering vines up to the graft union with dirt and/or sand
and continues to do this for all vines less than three years old, but it is not
terribly cost-effective. “It’s just not economical to routinely do for all mature
vineyards,” he said, “and it is labor-intensive.” While small wineries can wait
until late February or early March to begin pruning, O’Keefe explained that
larger wineries have to begin in December. “We would start by leaving six
to eight canes in December. Later we would go through and prune down to
four canes, leaving eight to 10 buds per cane. The last time through we’d trim
down to fewer canes for the growing season.” He laughed about this system
devised to deal with the harsh winters. “It may be labor-intensive, but at least
it keeps the laborers occupied for the entire season.”
Having a Plan
Cornel Olivier is another South African winemaker who found his way to
Northern Michigan, preceding Coenraad Stassen by four years. Olivier grew
up on his family’s farm near the Stellenbosch wine region. The family ran
orchards and grew grapes to sell to local wineries. He remembers learning
how to make his first wines at the knee of his grandfather.
After a career in the military didn’t work out, Olivier entered the South
Africa Viticulture and Science Program at the prestigious Elsenburg Agri-
cultural College. He got the opportunity to work and study abroad in 1999
and settled in Traverse City. He worked at Chateau Grand Traverse and Brys
Estate before partnering with Northern Michigan native Chris Balyga to
open 2 Lads Winery in 2007. They have a 58-acre property with 22 acres of
vineyard and a new state-of-the-art, gravity-flow winery.
Making Wine in Northern Michigan
“It’s especially challenging growing grapes here, so I need to make the
right decisions and think about many things—labor, finance, soil content,
slope, degree of sun exposure and drainage—in order to make the best wines
possible,” Olivier said. “I have a Plan A, Plan B and Plan C based upon each
location in the vineyard.”
Olivier’s vineyard is cordon-pruned. He chooses not to bury canes, but
he does have an extra shoot coming from the graft joint or slightly above it
to act as an insurance policy for the next year. Pruning starts in the snow in
January and February, usually finishing by the end of March. He spur-prunes
but leaves six to seven buds per spur to delay budbreak. After budbreak, he
goes back and cuts those spurs down to the bottom two shoots. He feels it
prevents a dense canopy and provides better fruit quality. “We’ve had frost
here as late as the end of May,” he bemoaned. “The frost hits the primary
shoots and severely cuts crop. Secondary buds will push in June but deliver
a much smaller crop, and the malic acid will be much higher, which can be
a challenge.”
Olivier said he lost 95 percent of his crop in 2014, and he is expecting
to lose 90 percent of this year’s crop. “The 2013 vintage provided a huge
crop and excellent wines,” he said. “We had very little crop last year and will
get not much more this year. In 2014 we made only sparkling wines from
everything we got from the farm, including a Riesling sparkler and another
that blended Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. This year we will
likely have to import juice to remain in business.”
38 November 2015 WBM
What Else Can Go Wrong?
Sometimes you read things, but they don’t sink in. In Northern Michigan in
2014, most of the wineries lost 95 percent of their crop. Ninety-five percent!
This year they expect to lose another 50 to 90 percent. Wineries are actually
considering importing juice to make wine just so they can stay in business.
Can you imagine that happening in Napa Valley, Willamette Valley or Walla
Walla? If you are heartless and jaded, you might think, “Alright, so it is cold
in Michigan, and they’ve had a couple of tough years. That can happen to
any winemaker. Right?”
Well maybe, but it’s not just the snow. Sean O’Keefe said, “Vines grow
differently here. Budbreak and bloom happen much later than on the West
Coast, often late in June or even in July, but we can go from budbreak to full
canopy in just two to three weeks. It’s hard to get the vineyard work done
when things are growing that fast.”
Stassen likes to do some leaf removal right after fruit set. He feels that
allows maximum sunlight to reach the grapes and provides for wind to
move through the vines to keep them dry. He believes this early leaf removal
toughens the skins against sunburn even though sunburn isn’t a big issue in
Michigan because the growing season is short, temperatures are generally
mild, and daylight is at a premium at harvest time. Early leaf removal also
seems to help dissipate pyrazines in Cabernet Franc. Stassen even does a light
hand-hedging on his Cabernet Franc late in July and then another machine-
hedging of the entire vineyard in August to try to maximize airflow through
the fruit zone.
 O’Keefe agrees that some leaf removal is of benefit for reds, especially “Budbreak and bloom happen much later
Cabernet Franc, but not really necessary for most other varieties in his
vineyard because the area’s sandy, low organic soils contribute to low-vigor than on the West Coast, often late in
vines. He also pointed out that too much berry sun exposure is detrimental
to Riesling.
June or even in July, but we can go from
Olivier also talked about the very rapid growth in the vines during July budbreak to full canopy in just two to three
and August. “Those months have high temperatures and high humidity in
this region,” he explained. “Because of that, our biggest problem is powdery weeks. It’s hard to get the vineyard work
mildew.” All of the winemakers use fungicides to help battle powdery mildew, done when things are growing that fast.”
black rot, Botrytis and other issues, which can be set early in the season and
then explode into bloom with harvest rains. Sean O’Keefe, winemaker, Villa Mari Vineyards
“You either farm for yield or
quality,” said Olivier. “We pull leaves
and drop crop, especially for reds and © 2015 StaVin Inc.

tight-cluster varieties. The trick is to

leave enough leaf cover for the grape
bunches and for photosynthesis. Then
we will pull more leaves near harvest
to allow things to dry out during the
harvest rains.”
Hopefully, the enormity of issues
that Northern Michigan winemakers
have to deal with is having an impact
upon you, but there is more. Once
these winemakers survive the winter,
spring frost, bursts of vine growth in
heat and humidity, and control the
mildew and other challenges, they
can’t just sit back and look forward to
their fruit ripening. It seems they have
a problem with birds.
“Birds are a big issue,” confirmed
O’Keefe. “We are on a major migratory
path for birds, but local birds cause
a lot of the damage as well.” Olivier
agrees that birds are a major concern.
“We use netting for the red wines
and colored white grapes although
they seem to leave the Riesling alone.”
Turns out that the birds will peck the
berries, punching through the skins. If
they attack the grapes at 18° Brix or
lower, you can get sour rot, and your
vineyards start to smell like vinegar. If
the birds hold off until 19° Brix, then
sour rot is not the issue, but Botrytis is.
So everyone uses bird netting to cover
a large portion of their vineyards.
“We net for birds,” admitted Stassen,
“but we also put up electric fencing
around the entire vineyard to keep out
the deer and raccoons. You know your One of our staff scientists, Dr. Jeff McCord has developed a micro-oxygenation system
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than birds.” StaVın Incorporated, Post Office Box 1693, Sausalito,CA 94966 tel (415) 331-7849 fax (415) 331-0516 www.stavin.com

WBM November 2015 39

Making Wine in Northern Michigan
When Challenged,
Let’s Make It Harder
As if snow, frost, mildew and pests didn’t provide enough of a challenge,
some Michigan winemakers go out of their way to make things even harder.
Lee Lutes was born in Michigan. His parents pursued teaching jobs in
Australia, where he has early memories of his parents enjoying wine in
Yalumba. Returning to Traverse City in 1975, he graduated from Michigan
State University with a degree in finance. Finding no affinity for working in
the finance field, he returned to the Barossa Valley and found inspiration
for a potential career. He moved to New York, worked for Danny Meyers,
spent time volunteering at Gristina Vineyards on Long Island and worked
as assistant winemaker at Abbazia di Valle Chiari in Northern Italy.
He returned to Traverse City in 1993 to work at Leelanau Wine Cellars
before founding Peninsula Cellars with the Kroupa family in 1994. In 1998
he was hired to develop the winery and make the wine at Black Star Farms,
where he is currently winemaker/distiller/general manager. The first thing he
did was to plant Pinot Noir—a lot of Pinot Noir. “I love Pinot Noir,” Lutes
explained. “So I thought, why not take a shot at it?”
Forget that Pinot Noir tends to bud early, making it very susceptible to
spring frost. Lutes brought in Dijon clones and had at it. He is now farming
five uniquely different Pinot Noir sites, carefully managing his vines to
produce small clusters and keeping crop loads around 2 tons per acre. Lutes
produced 3,500 cases of Pinot Noir in 2012.
According to Lutes the typical long, cool growing season in Northern
Michigan delivers a different flavor profile than most other places. Harvest
doesn’t take place until late October or early November. He contends that
flavor development comes early, and then growers wait for sugar to rise and
acid to drop. That’s a different scenario from California and other places
where sugar development comes first and winemakers wait for flavors to
develop. “Our Pinot Noir can be fairly high in pH, which can make it taste
broad in its texture and add a perception of sweetness,” said Lutes. “Our Pinot
usually spends extended time on the lees following fermentation, which adds
to an extended mid-palate.”
Wherever wine is made, winemakers and winery owners know that it is
very hard to obtain or grow high-quality grapes and then turn those grapes
into great wine. Even after you do that, the real test comes when you try to
sell the wine. A question comes to mind: Who is going to buy wine from
Michigan and why would they?
By 1996, Mawby had developed a reputable winery with a devoted following.
He made dry and sweet wines from hybrids as well as vinifera grapes, and
15 percent of his production was sparkling wine. Life was good, so using
good Northern Michigan logic, Mawby decided to focus on sparkling wine
production and give up 85 percent of his sales.
“I have two views when it comes to winemaking,” Mawby told me. “One
is aesthetic, and the other is commercial. From an aesthetic standpoint,
I wanted to make the best wine I could from my grapes on the Leelanau
Peninsula. It seemed to me that my best shot was to focus on sparkling wine.
Because it was harvested sooner, sparkling wine was less influenced by hostile
weather events, so I felt we could produce consistently good sparkling wine.”
Mawby figured that the best way to make good sparkling wine was to focus
on it. “I didn’t want to mess around with other stuff. I didn’t want to occupy
my time thinking about other wines. I decided to concentrate exclusively on
making good sparkling wine every year.” Commercially, he quickly realized
40 November 2015 WBM
that walking away from 85 percent of his business was not economic suicide.
More and more wineries were opening in the area. There was a solid ratio-
nale in becoming a specialist winery. It made him unique among all of the
wineries. As time went on, his winery became the go-to place for sparkling
wine in Michigan.
Marketing Michigan Wines
Lutes points out that the bulk of wine sales for all of the wineries in Northern
Michigan occurs in the individual tasting rooms. A lot of those visitors are
new to wine. Some of them are trying it for the first time. They have neither
the experience nor the sophisticated palates of people visiting wineries in
California, Washington or Oregon.
“We work at pleasing the consumers,” said Lutes, “and in some instances
that means making sweeter-styled wines. Fortunately, our high acids prevent
our wines from becoming cloying. When we started our winery, we produced
six different wines. Now we make 32 different wines, and 30 to 40 percent of
those have some residual sugar.”
Stassen added, “All of our wine is 100 percent estate-bottled, and we sell
virtually every bottle from our tasting room. We get 50,000 visitors each year
at the winery, and that number is growing.” Olivier makes 13 wines at 2 Lads:
10 still wines and three methode champenoise sparkling wines. “Eighty to 85
percent of our wine is sold on-site, and the rest is self-distributed or sold
wholesale.”
Mawby, who produces 10 different method champenoise wines and another
eight charmat or cuvée close method wines, called it, “the tyranny of success.
I’ve been trying to cut back on the number of wines for years, but the
consumers have their favorites, and they’d go crazy if I stopped production.”
Embracing Acidity
When you taste wines from Northern Michigan, the first surprise is how
well made they are and how good they taste. The second thing you are aware
of is the acid. Most wines from Michigan have a lot of acid. Each winemaker
deals with that issue slightly differently.
In talking about acidity in the grapes, Stassen said, “I don’t like to remove
acid from wine. I’d prefer to leave a little bit of residual sugar to balance the
acid.” He also uses 71B yeast, which naturally removes acid during fermenta-
tion. Stassen often picks grapes with 8 to 9 g per liter of acid. After fermenta-
tion, he sees 7.5 g per liter. “At that acid, about 15 g per liter residual sugar
usually creates the perfect balance, depending on vintage.”
Olivier likes to use yeast strains that help decrease malic acid content in his
white wines. When acids are very high, he might de-acidify some of the juice
and then blend to achieve the acid content he wants. On Chardonnays he will
use malolactic. On Rieslings he uses a small amount of residual sugar to find
the perfect balance between acidity, sweetness and body. “Of course, on all
of the red wines, we put them through malolactic fermentation to lower the
malic acid,” he said.
Lutes said, “Ultra-high acidity is rarely a serious issue that cannot be dealt
with through some ML manipulation, a little amelioration, de-acidification
(only in the worst years) and/or a combination of all of these things. With
Pinot, we have not had to do any of these things in most vintages; but if the
fruit quality is poor enough to not be considered for red wine, we make it
into Rosé or sparkling.”
For Riesling and white wines O’Keefe said, “I use extended skin contact
to increase potassium in juice or long fermentation in neutral oak ovals
with extended gross and fine lees contact. In the worst case scenario I will
de-acidify the juice. Also, malic lowering yeasts, like 71B, SVG, etc., can help,
as well as co-inoculation with ml bacteria.”
As usual, Larry Mawby has a slightly different take. When asked what he
does about the acidity, Mawby replied, “I embrace it. High acid is great for
sparkling wine, and it’s good for most table wines as well. With still wine, a
winemaker can always use malolactic fermentation to lower the acid and, if
necessary, a bit of residual sugar will help as well.”
An Evolving Region
For this writer, high acid is about the only downside for Michigan wines.
Especially for the red wines, I find that the acid builds and builds, making it
difficult to sail through an entire bottle. Perhaps the best policy is to follow
Larry Mawby’s lead. Embrace the wines from Northern Michigan, acid and
all. We have to remember, most of them have been at this for less than 20
years in Northern Michigan. They will figure out what to do with the acidity.
Their Rieslings are already stunning and rival any other Rieslings being
produced in this country. These fearless winemakers fight harsh winters,
freezing springs, rot and pests. They take grapes with high acid and low
sugars and somehow extract balanced flavors and substantial color to make
very nice wines. They are succeeding in a very competitive marketplace, and
their industry is growing steadily.
One thing for sure, they are not going to give up. It is just not in their
nature. WBM

...before settling
down for your long
winter’s nap...
ATP suggests that winemakers conduct preventive equipment maintenance prior to storage. This includes:
1. A detailed cleaning of your equipment.
2. Inspecting, identifying and replacing damaged or worn parts.
3. Conducting a “close~out, close~down equipment run.”
4. Covering and/or sealing all equipment as necessary to keep out debris and miscellaneous materials.
5. Performing all necessary oil changes and greasing chores.
6. Creating a photographed condition file of each piece.
However, we don’t recommend draining equipment completely. Doing so, can actually harm the “heart” of your
equipment by allowing oxygen to enter the various components, from metal to rubber. (These components,
when exposed to air, can become quite brittle and crack.)
We recommend you do these things to insure that your equipment, come Spring, won’t awake with a clatter.

For more inFormation, call atP services at (707) 331-2170 or email us at: services@americantartaric.com

WBM November 2015 41

 Lance Cutler has been a working winemaker in Sonoma County for 35 years. He has been a
winemaking contributing editor for Wine Business Monthly for more than 10 years. His unique perspective
on winemaking has led to our Industry Roundtable series and our Varietal Focus series. Lance
is also the author of four books, including The Tequila Lover’s Guide to Mexico.
B O D E G A C AT E N A Z A PATA W I N E R Y of Mendoza, Argentina has been
carrying on serious, scientific wine research for 20 years under the direction
of Laura Catena, general director. By 2008, as part of their ongoing research,
Bodega Catena was doing 250 microvinifications a year. In 2010 that number
had climbed to 2,000 annually. These microvinification trials are critical for
any vineyard trials but often present a problem because of the difficulties
with being precise and reproducible while still providing information that
transfers directly to commercial winemaking.
The winery decided to sponsor Fernando Buscema, executive director of
their research program, for the two-year MS program at UC Davis, focusing
on learning how to run these microvinifications in the best possible way.
Working primarily with Dr. Roger Boulton and relying on new state-of-the-
art equipment in the UC Davis experimental winery, Buscema released the
most extensive Malbec research ever conducted.
Some Background on Bodega Catena
Zapata’s Research Start
Bodega Catena Zapata has led the way in Argentina’s viticulture and
winemaking research since the 1990s. Nicolás Catena, the third genera-
tion of the family, had a Ph.D. in economics; and while spending time
in California in the 1980s, he was impressed by California’s attempts
to compete with the classic wines of Europe. He saw that research
conducted at UC Davis had contributed to California’s burgeoning wine
industry. When he returned to Argentina, he decided to learn all he
could to improve his wines until they could compete on the world’s stage.
Nicolás focused his efforts on Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon,
the major players in France and much of Europe, and he seemed to
be making progress. His wines were improving. By 1995, he showed
CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE...
42 November 2015 WBM
WINE TRIALS:
The Future of
Wine Science
Catena winery sponsors unique
research presentation at UC Davis
Lance Cutler
SAMUEL KASS
As founder of Catena Institute of Wine, Laura Catena felt it was time to
let the wine world in on Buscema’s research and the other areas they were
studying. She recently hosted an event called “The Future of Wine Science: A
Dialogue with Experts from UC Davis and the Catena Institute of Wine.” The
event was a collaboration between UC Davis, the Catena Institute of Wine
and MundoVino, a member of The Winebow Group, which represents
Bodega Catena Zapata nationally. A select group of wine writers, sommeliers
and wine experts attended the all-day event on August 31, 2015 that featured
a who’s who list of Davis experts and Catena Institute researchers.
The Most In-depth Study
of Cultivars Ever Attempted
The centerpiece of the event started with a tour of the LEED Platinum
Teaching and Research Winery at UC Davis that introduced attendees
to the special equipment that made the study possible. Then Fernando
Buscema and Boulton gave a presentation of their research on Malbec culti-
vars and how they used the state-of-the-art UC Davis winery to conduct
their experiments.
Buscema’s M.S. thesis at UC Davis is the most in-depth study of Malbec
ever published. It is also the largest single comparative cultivar study ever
attempted. The project studied Malbec—comparing 26 different blocks in
Mendoza with 16 different blocks from six different counties in California.
The blocks selected from Argentina were as uniform as possible. The same
irrigation methodology was used; and if hail-protection netting was used, all
of the vines in the block had to have it.
Buscema harvested between 500 and 1,000 kg of fruit from each block
between 24° to 25° Brix. The Argentine wines were fermented in 500 L
 D I S C O V E R I N G

POTENTIAL
S I N C E 1 9 7 8

etslabs.com
WINE TRIALS: The Future of Wine Science

…CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS PAGE

his wines at a Wine Spectator event in New York, but his wines got
little attention. That year, Nicolás’ daughter, Laura, got involved in the
research. She felt that her father needed to do something different, and
she decided that their winery had a unique opportunity with Malbec, the
most planted grape in all of Argentina.
Laura Catena, who graduated magna cum laude from Harvard Univer-
sity with a degree in biology and has a Doctor of Medicine degree from
Stanford University, was appalled by the unscientific way the winery
was doing its research. She brought a more pragmatic and empirical
methodology, insisting on replicating experiments and compiling data
to make informed decisions.
“We wanted to promote knowledge and understanding through
science,” explained Catena. “Our goal in this research is two-fold: we
want to elevate our Catena wines to a level that competes with the finest
wines in the world, and we want to share our knowledge to elevate wine
quality for all of Argentina.”
By 2002, Catena realized she needed to hire full-time researchers to
run the experimental programs and organize data. They hired Alejandro
Vigil as research and development director. Vigil transformed the team
and brought in new expertise. In 2004 he partnered with the agronomy
school in Mendoza to study high-altitude viticulture, which was a major
focus for Bodega Catena Zapata. By 2007 Vigil joined the enology team
full-time and is now the winemaker. His place on the research team was
taken by Fernando Buscema.

Developing the Malbec Program

Catena’s first project was to develop the Malbec program. Bodega
Catena Zapata identified 134 different Malbec selections among its
vineyards. They worked with these clones for years, finally selecting five
clones based on positive features, like small clusters, small berries and
naturally low yield. In 2007 these five clones were sent to UC Davis where
they compared the Argentine clones against five clones from France.
In research carried out by Roy Urvieta from the Catena Institute, char-
acteristics between the Argentine and French clones were compared.
The Argentine clones produced significantly lower yields than their
French counterparts, averaging 22.5 kg per plant compared to the 69
kg per plant of the French selections. A bit surprising was the fact that
the clones from Argentina behaved the same way in California as in
Argentina, with the lowest and highest yielding clones performing the
same in both locations.
The conclusions were not as evident when it came to studying the
flavonoids and anthocyanins between the French and Argentine selec-
tions. Of the 24 compounds analyzed there were differences in just
seven. The French clones did have more tri-hydroxylated anthocyanins,
while the selections from Argentina contained more di-hydroxylated
anthocyanins. Urvieto hypothesized that the higher UV-B and more
stressful conditions in Argentina may have caused the Argentine clones
to develop more of the di-hydroxylated anthocyanins.
Catena said, “Twenty years ago we wondered if we planted a Malbec
vine from France, whether it would taste the same as our selections. So
we brought in French Malbec and realized that the plant material was
different. This study proves that the plant material is different, and we
believe it shows that Argentina has more desirable Malbec selections
than France.” WBM
plastic bins while the California wines were fermented in 250 L stainless
steel fermentors. Winemaking was conventional: 150 mg of SO2 was added
at crushing, and 24 hours later 200 mg per liter of Lalvin EC-118 yeast was
added. A day later 100 mg/liter DAP was added. Fermentation temperatures
were kept between 22° and 25° C. After 11 days of fermentation on the skins,
the wine was pressed, and the free run juice was inoculated with Lalvin VP41
malolactic bacteria. Once ML was complete, free SO2 was brought to 35 mg
per liter. Twelve bottles of each wine were sealed and kept standing at 15° C
until analysis.
Roger Boulton commented, “Only someone with Fernando’s enthusiasm
and dedication could get this 60-year-old professor up at four in the morning
to pick grapes from 16 locations all over the state. I have waited 25 years to do
this kind of research. It would have been a complete waste of time to attempt
before, but now with this new equipment we have here at the research winery,
we are able to exactly replicate each fermentation, isolating out the specific
vineyard contributions.”
Using HPLC liquid chromatography, Buscema focused on 30 phenolic
compounds with a system called chemotronics to develop a fingerprint of
the various wines. The research revealed that the Mendoza wines showed
similarities but were significantly different from the California counties.
All of the California counties separated from each other except for Sonoma
and Monterey. All four of the Mendoza locations separated from each other

44 November 2015 WBM

 SAMUEL KASS

although two were closely associated. Buscema determined that as expected,

the phenolic compounds present in Malbec wines are affected by site char-
acteristics. The study suggested that California and Argentine Malbecs are
different compositionally, and that chemotronics could be used to explore
new regions.
That research led them to a methodology that allows them to isolate specific
factors they wish to study. State-of-the-art equipment allows them to focus
on those factors, running their experiments in triplicate. The information
gleaned from these experiments is readily adaptable to real winery production.
Since obtaining his degree, Buscema adapted his techniques to look at
different sections within Catena Zapata’s legendary Adrianna vineyard
located at a 5,000-foot elevation. He discovered overlap in most sections of
the vineyard, but four plots stood out as unique. They experimented with
individual lots from the four designated sections using the same rigorous
technique he developed at UC Davis. Over time their research proved that
three of the plots consistently produced wines recognizably different from
one another. They are now trying to figure out if it is soil type or possibly
different microbes in the soil that contribute to these differences. If they
unlock and identify the keys to differences in the vineyard, they might be
able to replicate those conditions that improve quality and consistency from
one vintage to another.

WBM November 2015 45

 WINE TRIALS: The Future of Wine Science

A Day of Research Findings

The day began in the vineyard where Josh Puckett, the head of plant
production at Foundation Plant Services, walked participants through
HIGH-PERFORMANCE PROCESSING & WASHING SYSTEMS the rows planted eight years earlier with the Argentine and French clones.
Laura Catena reiterated that her winery is focused on learning how to
make wines that compete with the world’s best while also spreading the
information gleaned in their research to improve Argentine winemaking
as a whole. Puckett explained how the vineyard selects clones, plants them,
TBC-2STD clears them for disease and then offers them to nurseries for distribution
Two-Barrel Washer to winegrowers. Buscema went over data gleaned from the original experi-
Maximize Cleaning
ments while people tasted the differences between the French clones and the
Argentine selections. Exhibiting his gentle humor, Buscema said, “You see,
Minimize Water Use
these vines bring Argentina with them even though they are in California.”
Durable
Portable Dealing with the
Ozone-capable Possibility of Phylloxera
Minimize Workplace Only 6 percent of Argentina’s vineyards are grafted onto resistant rootstock.
Injuries The rest of the vines are own-rooted, which leaves them susceptible to phyl-
loxera. Phylloxera is present in Argentina, but thus far it has caused very
little damage. The Catena Institute of Wine is aware that being lucky is not
the same thing as being safe, so they are researching phylloxera and how
it might affect the vineyards in Argentina while trying to come up with a
1650 Almar Parkway, Santa Rosa CA 95403 program to monitor the pest and develop a strategy to protect the vineyards
tombeard.com p: 707-573-3150 before there is a major problem.
e: jmendoza@tombeard.com Another presentation featured Dr. Andy Walker, whose research program
focuses on developing new rootstocks resistant to phylloxera, fanleaf and
other pests and diseases. He gave an introduction about the pest, its history
and how it spreads. He explained that phylloxera feeds on both leaves and
roots and is primarily transferred by wind and machinery but can even be
brought in on resistant rootstock.
In vineyards comprised of mostly sandy soils and places that use flood
irrigation, (which describes a lot of Argentina), phylloxera tends to be less of
a problem. Flood irrigation and lighter soils allow for large, spread out root
systems; so if phylloxera is present it causes less damage. Once drip irrigation
is introduced (and this is happening more frequently in Argentina), the root
systems become more confined, making them more susceptible to the pest.
As the root systems deteriorate, they are less able to intake potassium, so lack
of potassium in vines can be an early indicator of phylloxera infection.
Dr. Summaria Riaz followed Dr. Walker and spoke about the different
types of phylloxera and the work done by Catena Institute researcher
Celeste Arancibia. Arancibia has identified specific strains present in
Argentina. Currently research is focused on fingerprinting the types of phyl-
loxera present and determining if they are known strains or mutant strains.
Changes in viticulture techniques in Argentina will have a definite impact on
the phylloxera threat. The Catena Institute has dedicated itself to developing
a strategy for defense that it will share with the entire industry.

Making Argentina’s
Wine Industry Stronger
In addition to making world-class wines based on knowledge from scientific
research, Laura Catena wants to improve and protect the future of Argentina’s
wine industry. To that end, they have begun studies of less successful varieties,
lower altitude vineyards and high-yielding vineyards in the hopes of showing
farmers how to improve quality and increase income from their grapes.
The next session included tasting experimental lots from the Catena Insti-
tute, working from these types of locations with these varieties. A Criollo
from Serrera Vineyard in Tupungato exhibited white pepper, intense dark
46 November 2015 WBM
color and rich mouthfeel in spite of a low 11.5 percent alcohol. Grenache • Rewriting the sustainability code as it applies to Argentina
is another variety found in Argentina but little known. The selection from • Physiochemistry of soils and its impact on wine quality and
La Antonia Vineyard in Rivadavia had some peach aromatics but remained uniqueness.
somewhat dull on the palate with a bitter finish. It was thought that over-
cropping was the main issue.
A Cabernet Franc from Angelica Sur Vineyard in El Cepilla was served
Conclusion
A lot of winemaking is based on tradition, myth and observation. Assump-
next. It was big, with green tannins that made it astringent, but showed some
tions may or may not be true, but winemakers cling to them nevertheless.
promise. The biggest surprise was a Bonarda from Patagonia, a typically cool
Winemakers have very definite opinions about what goes on during a cold
region. Although it came from a three-year-old vineyard, the wine showed
soak, the best temperature for fermentation, the contribution of concrete
delicious black fruit, with depth and a fine tannic backbone. The tasting
tanks and how we use oxygen in winemaking. In most cases, they are
ended with Malbec Cortado from Angelica Vineyard. This is sweet Malbec
simply opinions.
developed by Catena Zapata by leaving small clusters of grapes hanging on
When scientific research is applied to aspects of winemaking, the informa-
the vines until they are picked around 30° Brix. The wine was very sweet and
tion is readily adapted into the winemaking community. Until Brad Webb
lush with a lot of Port character.
and Louis Martini isolated ways to reproduce malolactic bacteria, it was a
Buscema said that the Catena Institute of Wine has a goal of advancing
hit-or-miss operation in wineries. After scientific research taught us what
their region to the first world of wine. Whatever they find out will be used to
was going on, isolated the proper bacteria and developed delivery systems,
help Mendoza become one of the world’s top wine regions. “The institute is
malolactic fermentations became predictable and easy. Today there are several
an attempt to fast-track Mendoza by virtue of first-class wine science.”
ML products that are efficient, reliable and used throughout the industry.
Current collaborative projects at the Catena Institute of Wine include:
It is not often that wineries are willing to finance specific scientific research
• The quality of Malbec and its relationship to UV-B, low night into aspects of winemaking. That Laura Catena and the Catena Institute of
temperatures, light quality, soil microorganisms and the effects of
Wine have been conducting this exploration of winemaking using scientific
natural stress hormone ABA and drought
methodology is certainly to be commended. That they have decided to share
• Melatonin and harvest time it with their Mendoza competitors and the rest of the wine world makes it a
• Identification of phylloxera strains in Argentina generous gift that will likely influence how wine is made for generations to
• Compounds from winemaking residues with biological applications come. WBM

WBM November 2015 47

winemaking

Basic In-House Wine Analysis for

Boutique to Small Wineries
Jean L. Jacobson
Jean L. Jacobson is a writer and author of the book, Introduction to Wine Laboratory
Practices and Procedures, published by Springer Publishing, NY, NY. Jacobson was
laboratory director for Kendall-Jackson Wine Estates for many years and is currently
working in the wine and spirits industry.

ACCORDING TO THE 2015 statistics published by Wine Business Basic Analyses

Monthly (February, 2015) and Wines & Vines Analytics (January, 27 2015), Basic analyses are the most common assays performed in winemaking.
there are currently 6,599 bonded grape wineries in the United States, of which It is important to know what analyses (data) you will need to make your
approximately 6,335 (96 percent) of that total are boutique to small wineries winemaking decisions and go from there. For each of these assays there is a
ranging from less than 1,000 cases per year to 49,999 cases per year. The learning curve. The what, when, how and the dos and don’ts are too many to
amount of analyses these wineries generate varies from winery to winery, address in the scope of this article but are very important to know. Below are
depending on the number of lots and the funds to perform the needed tests. the assays performed and the most common reason to perform them (there
This article covers the different types of analyses may be other reasons not mentioned, and there
and equipment available to perform basic juice are many, many more analyses available):
and wine analyses at the winery site. Learning the Procedures • °Brix: Level of fermentable sugars in berries
Before we delve into the assays and equipment, Learning the methods and procedures is much and fermenting juice. Monitors sugar
I have to add a note about analyses. The more easier than in past years. Workshops are available levels through fermentation and indicates
analyses you perform, the better control you will for most levels of proficiency through colleges and completion. Can also be expressed as a
have over your wine production, the better wine community programs; books and manuals, both percentage, %Brix.
you will produce, the less spoilage and loss you hard copy and e-copies, are available, but keep in • Temperature: Required for many reasons in
will have, plus the generation of valuable data for mind the level of learning you are seeking and not winemaking and analyses.
your next year’s production. If cost is a concern, get in too deep or be bored. Suppliers such as The
• Glucose/Fructose: Level of residual
it is better to follow your lots with an analysis Beverage People in Santa Rosa, California offer
reducing sugars (RRS) in juice or wine,
that will give you an estimated value to track the classes and help with the equipment they carry,
verifies completion of primary fermentation.
“trends” until the wine reaches critical points at and vendors of certain equipment may also offer
which time you will need accurate (close to the classes or on-site instruction. Commercial wine • Alcohol/Ethanol (EtOH): Measurement
“real” value) and reliable results. of ethanol content in a fermenting juice
laboratories, such as ETS and Enartis Vinquiry in or wine. Important to estimate potential
Please keep in mind that regardless of the Northern California, offer a variety of educational
alcohol and alcohol content in finished wine.
type of assays you perform, execution of that experiences for the wine community, and there are
assay has to be precise (repeatable), including consultants that can help set up your laboratories • L-Malic Acid (LMA): Level of LMA in
measurements, temperatures, calculations, cali- or help with an assay. juice or wine. Important for malic acid
brations, etc. as dictated by the test procedure fermentation (secondary fermentation,
In addition to the above, the internet has a MLF). Monitors the fermentation and
in order to obtain usable results, or it will be a wealth of information, how-to videos, etc., which
verifies completion.
futile endeavor with the quality of your wine can be very helpful. I have looked at some of
at stake. Know your procedures and, better yet, these videos online, and my advice is to stick with • Titratable Acidity (TA) and pH: Measures
know and understand the analyte you are trying videos that are credible. Companies, professional acids in juice or wine, the total amount of
hydrogen ions present in the wine or juice
to measure. Proficiency in performing even the organizations and academic organizations not only
(excluding those ions bound to alkaline
simplest of assays will give you confidence and, know the material but will have your success and ions). Not to be confused with Total Acid. TA
depending on the number of lots you produce, safety in mind. Many of the videos I viewed were is expressed as tartaric acid. TA and pH are
will save you money down the road. lacking in technique and safety. required for proper sulfur dioxide additions.

48 November 2015 WBM

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Basic In-House Wine Analysis for Boutique to Small Wineries
• Volatile Acidity (VA): Measures the volatile acids that can be distilled
from a juice or wine and is expressed as acetic acid. VA monitors
fermentation and is an indicator of contamination and spoilage.
• Acetic Acid (AC): Level of AC in juice or wine. Important during
fermentations. Correlates with VA results up to approximately 0.050
g/100 ml.
• Free Sulfur Dioxide (FSO2): Level of SO2 in a juice or wine not yet
bound. Used as an anti-microbial and an antioxidant.
• Total Sulfur Dioxide (TSO2): Level of SO2 in juice or wine includes the
FSO2 and the bound SO2.
Equipment
The sophistication and technologically advanced pieces of equipment
most often dictate the level of accuracy and precision, which dictates the
price. It is most definitely “what you pay for is what you get.” Accuracy
and precision are not the only perks throughput of samples; reduced labor
costs, reduced human error and data management are major considerations
for cost-effective accurate analyses. Equipment is designed based on test
methods and The Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB)
has a listing of approved methods. The results/data generated from these
approved methods are acceptable to TTB without further testing, another
cost savings.
Results produced by lower-end, less accurate equipment should be consid-
ered as “trend” following and require additional testing with more accurate
50 November 2015 WBM
and precise equipment. Confirmation of dryness and MLF completion, TA/
pH and VA, ethanol content, FSO2 and TSO2 are the very basic assays that
require accurate results prior to the first sulfur additions. Periodic accurate
testing of FSO2 and TSO2, TA/pH and VA throughout maturation is highly
recommended. Prior to bottling, all of the assays above should be rerun.
Commercial wine laboratories provide a plethora of analyses to meet your
needs with the accurate results you require. Using the higher-end, more
accurate equipment eliminates the guesswork and the need for additional
testing.
When deciding on the method you want to use and before you purchase
any equipment, be informed about the procedure, additional equipment,
level of accuracy, calculations, supplies, fragility and chemicals associated
with the assays. Keep in mind the expiration dates on chemicals and strips,
chemical and reagent storage and disposal requirements, safety, electrical,
gas, vacuum and water needs, glassware, cleaning and cost.
Assays
TEMPERATURE
Temperature is an integral part of every step of winemaking and in
performing analyses. From fermentation to case goods storage, it is impera-
tive to have accurate temperature control. Many test results are computed
using temperature as a factor, and laboratory equipment may be calibrated
to perform at certain temperatures. Some instruments are designed with
automatic temperature compensation (ATC).
 Thermometers come in an array of types and accuracy levels. There are
floating, clip on, stainless steel encased, electronic and more. Non-electric
thermometers utilize alcohol or mercury expansion to indicate the tempera-
ture. Electric thermometers utilize a probe. The ability to be recalibrated for
better accuracy is a plus. The most accurate thermometers are certified by the
National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST) and other standards
organizations and should be sent in for recalibration periodically.
NOTE: Mercury thermometers should not be used in the cellar. If used in
the lab, follow strict safety guidelines.
°BRIX, %BRIX
Brix measurements can be determined by several different methods,
such as specific gravity, density, refractive index, near infrared (NIR) and
soluble solids. These methods use different scales and tables to estimate
the sugar content. °Brix is a percentage by mass measurement of soluble
solids in a liquid and is an estimated amount due to other soluble solids in
the juice. %Brix is a more contemporary measurement of tabulated true
density against the mass fraction and is more accurate, but the difference
between the two measurements is very, very small and in most cases %Brix
is reported as °Brix. When looking at equipment for Brix determination,
you may see %Brix.
°Brix via refractometer is commonly used for field sugar levels using a
hand-held refractometer. Measurements are approximate. Pros: Very mobile
and rugged; only needs a light source; provides years of service; uses small
amount of sample. Cons: Cleanliness is paramount; scratches may alter
results; results are temperature dependent; calculations; only non-fermenting
juice. Digital hand-held refractometers are battery operated and accurate
when calibrated properly. Pros: Small and portable; digital readout; many
have ATC; uses small amount of sample. Cons: Battery operated; cleanliness
is paramount; scratches and may alter results; only non-fermenting juice.
Bench top portable digital refractometers are normally used in scale houses
and in the winery. They are accurate; ATC; Multi Uses; larger Brix scale; can
be battery powered or low voltage and are larger easy to read units. Pros:
Easy to calibrate; fast; may have auto shut off; warranties; better prisms; uses
small amount of sample; some units support wine, must and juice samples.
Cons: Battery or electrical source required; cleanliness is paramount; repair/
replacement costs.
°Brix via hydrometer is a quantifying method and is primarily used during
fermentation. A Brix hydrometer with a scale of 0 to 35 can be used to
monitor fermentation until you get to or near the 0 level at which time switch
to a second hydrometer with a scale of 0.5 to -0.5. A third hydrometer is often
used with a scale below 15. Pros: With proper care the hydrometers (glass) and
cylinders can be used year after year with good approximate results (Certified
hydrometers are recommended); can utilize throughout fermentation. Cons:
Proper technique and hydrometer reading imperative; samples require CO2
elimination; temperature dependent results; calculations breakable requiring
a back-up set during harvest; test requires a large juice sample.
°Brix via densitometer is the most accurate method used. Handheld density
meters with LED readout are a fast and accurate way to monitor Brix in the
field and through fermentation. In addition, some units may have programs
available for specific gravity and alcohol determination; data storage and
transfer making them usable throughout the year. Units utilizing oscillating

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WBM November 2015 51

 Basic In-House Wine Analysis for
Boutique to Small Wineries

WineDoc®-Winery Consulting
Winery Design: U-Tube technology are very accurate. Pros: Multiple uses; CO2 elimination
addressed; ATC; uses small sample volume; with care will last for years. Cons:
Business Plans
Battery operated; cleanliness is paramount; repair is expensive.
Equipment and Lab Specs
Building & Floor Plans RRS, LMA AND AC
New or Expansion There are several different methods and instruments available to quantify
Highest Quality Winemaking these analytes, including chromatography, remission photometry and
spectroscopy.
859 533-8759 or Tom@winedoc.com LMA via basic chromatography is a qualitative test method to indicate
the presence or absence of an acid by using a large jar, solvent, paper and a
standard. Pros: Inexpensive. Cons: Time consuming; confirming final LMA
is recommended.
LMA via remission photometry (reflectometry) is a quantifying method
based on reflectance photometry. This method can be used in samples less
than 30mg/L LMA and is fairly accurate in the lower range of MLF. Pros:
Easy to use; fast; economical, uses small sample. Cons: Samples may require
dilutions or de-colorization; uses a bar code slip to set up tests which are
fragile; battery operated; breakable; confirming final LMA is recommended.
RRS, LMA, and AC via enzymatic spectrophotometry is the most utilized
method in the wine industry due to the quantitative accuracy, excellent
precision and TTB approval. A UV-Visible spectrophotometer is recom-
mended with an array of wavelength ranges which include 340 nm, one or
more beams and more than one sample cell. Pros: Enzymatic kits; provides
low cost/assay for higher volume user; no verification test required; some
units are able to analyze several samples in one run; instruments available
with multi sampler and totally automated. Cons: Requires accurate measure-
ments; requires good lab skills; turbid samples must be centrifuged; samples
may require dilutions or de-colorization; requires good maintenance; repairs
can be expensive.

For more information contact your sales representative or email us at info @seguinmoreau.com
TA AND PH
The pH can be estimated via pH indicator strips or measured using a
calibrated potentiometer instrument. TA determination can be quantified
using a Colorimetric Indicator Method or Potentiometric Method. Both
methods include the delivery of a titrant (01N Sodium Hydroxide). Samples
require degassing and may require clarification.
TA via basic Colorimetric Indicator Method estimates the level of TA in a
wine or juice utilizing Phenolphthalein, a known color indicator solution.
Pros: Inexpensive. Cons: Exact measurements; burets are breakable; calcula-
tions; color determined end point.
TA and pH via Potentiometric Method uses a pH meter to measure the pH
of the sample before titrant is added and during the addition of titrant. Pros:
More accurate than Indicator Method; inexpensive. Cons: Exact measure-
ments; burets and pH electrodes are breakable; calculations. TA and pH via
Potentiometric Method with auto titration using a pH meter is a fast and more
accurate method to obtain TA results. These titrators dispense the titrant
by the drop much faster and more accurately than can be done manually
increasing the throughput of samples. Auto-titrators come as standalone
instruments to be used with a separate pH meter or as a combined unit.
Pros: Accurate titrant dispensing with digital readout; cost effective; calcula-
tions; some units can be expanded for future growth; may have tech support;
warranties. Cons: Cost; calculations; requires exact measurements; repairs
can be expensive. For the highest throughput look at auto-titrators that are
combined units with automatic sample trays that hold several samples. Pros:
Accurate titrant dispensing with digital readout; high throughput; accurate
calculations with data management; multi-sample capability “load and go;”

52 November 2015 WBM

cost effective; some units can be expanded for future growth; tech support;
warranties. Cons: Cost; requires exact measurements; requires good mainte-
nance; requires good lab skills; repairs can be expensive.
VOLATILE ACIDITY
The only method for the quantification of VA is distillation to separate the
volatile acid from other acids found in the wine via a glass still. Since the
levels of VA are regulated by the TTB an accurate and precise measurement
is necessary. Distillation method is approved by TTB. Samples require
de-gassing.
VA via Cash Still Distillation Method uses colorimetric endpoint titrations
of the distillate to determine the VA. Results are accurate and precise with
proper procedure and techniques. Pros: TTB approved; equipment can last
for years with proper care. Cons: Requires a higher level of lab skills; requires
exact measurements; color determined end point; calculations; glass still;
replacements/repairs can be expensive.
VA via automated Segmented Flow Micro Distillation Method with colori-
metric spectroscopy to determine the VA is accurate and precise. Units have
multi sample capability. Pros: TTB approved; fast; auto calculations; elimi-
nates color interpretation; eliminates exact measurements; can be expanded
for future growth; tech support; warranties; low reagent cost. Cons: Requires
higher level of lab skills; cost; requires good maintenance; troubleshooting;
repairs can be expensive.
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ALCOHOL
Alcohol v/v% quantification methods vary. Alcohol content is regulated by
the TTB and the methods acceptable are boiling point, densitometry and
gas chromatography. Near Infrared (NIR) and Fourier Transform Infrared
(FTIR) methods or a combination of the two are used widely in the wine
industry. There are several other methods including pycnometry, hydrom-
etry and distillation that estimate the alcohol content but these methods
can be time consuming and difficult to perform. For the purposes of this
article gas chromatography and benchtop, TTB-approved density meters are
not an option due to the cost factors. Results that are obtained by other
methods and calibrated with TTB traceable standards; have accurate and
precise results within the TTB limits; may be used. Check with TTB for
more information.
Alcohol via Ebulliometer is a quantitative method based on the boiling
point of alcohol in a liquid. This method has been long standing and an
approved method that is available to the smallest wineries. Pros: Least
expensive of all approved methods; with excellent skills and technique is
fairly accurate in the desired range; long life; available in an electronic model.
Cons: Alcohol fumes; exact measurements; exact technique; requires calcula-
tions; temperature dependent; atmospheric conditions can effect precision;
least accurate of all approved methods; requires good lab skills.
Alcohol via NIR is an accurate and precise quantitative method. Easy to
use and calibrate. Pros: Fast; multi-sample options; many years of service
with good care; warranties; tech support; LED read out; results calculated.
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WBM November 2015 53
 Basic In-House Wine Analysis for
Boutique to Small Wineries
SUPPORT RESEARCH
A N D W I N E INDUSTRY
NEEDS THROUGH THE Cons: Highly accurate standards to calibrate; requires adequate cleaning and
AM ER I CAN VI N E YA R D FOUN DAT I O N maintenance; repairs can be expensive; cost.
Alcohol via densitometry is a quantitative, precise and accurate method.
Density meters are user-friendly and are found in hand held and benchtop
devices. Please note that all density meters are not approved by TTB for

Finding
alcohol determination, check with manufacturer or TTB. Pros: Bench-top
meters have multi-sample options; uses small sample; fast; results calcu-
lated; LED read out; with good care will last for years; warranties; tech
support. Cons: Requires good maintenance and cleaning; repairs can be

Solutions
expensive; cost.

FSO2 AND TSO2

Through
Colorimetric (Ripper) and aeration/oxidation (A/O) are the primary
quantitative methods used to determine FSO2 and TSO2 in wineries today.
A/O is approved by TTB. Several other methods are used, including the
Amperometric Method.

Research
FSO2 and TSO2 via Ripper is a quantitative colormetric endpoint titration
method that estimates the SO2 levels and is more accurate in white wines than
reds with marginal precision due to phenolic materials (pigments) in red
wines. Pros: Least expensive method; fast. Cons: Requires consistent precise
technique and very good lab skills; calculations; colorimetric endpoint
errors; large quantity of glassware needed. Modified Ripper Method consists
of utilizing auto titration and potentiometric detection removing titration,
color, and end point error to estimate the FSO2 and TSO2. Pros: Better
MEASURING TANNIN accuracy and precision than Ripper; fast; some units come with automated
ACTIVITY stirrers; long life with good care. Cons: More expensive with automation;
requires good lab skills; repairs/replacements consideration.
Dr. James Kennedy has developed
FSO2 and TSO2 via Amperometric Method is similar to the Ripper method
an analytical method that predicts but utilizes an amperometric (SO2) electrode detector which replaces the
tannin interaction with salivary iodine in the procedure to estimate FSO2 and TSO2. Pros: Eliminates the
protein. Kennedy’s research gives colorimetric endpoint errors; eliminates the use of iodine; improved preci-
sion. Cons: More expensive than basic Ripper; calculations; large quantity of
winemakers the ability to measure glassware needed; repairs/replacements are cost considerations.
tannin interaction and how tannin FSO2 and TSO2 via A/O, being the approved method, is by far the most
modification through winemaking utilized method in the wine industry. Accurate and precise with proper
practices could affect the perceived procedure and techniques. A colorimetric titration is performed to calculate
the analyte. Pros: TTB approved; most accurate method; Cons: The set up for
“softness” in red wines. For the collection of the FSO2 is fragile and made of high quality glass; requires
additional information visit AVF.org a high level of lab skills; colorimetric endpoint errors; calculations; large
or contact Dr. Kennedy at quantity of glassware needed.
jakennedy@csufresno.edu.
Conclusion
Take a look at your current wine production and estimate your needs over
For a wealth of useful viticulture and enology research and information,
the next three to five years before you choose equipment. As you grow, the
visit AVF.org, ngr.ucdavis.edu, asev.org, iv.ucdavis.edu, or ngwi.org
amount of analyses will grow and it will be more cost effective to purchase
equipment that can be expanded via automation, larger sampling options,
AM ERICAN V I N EYA R D FOUN D AT I O N or the option to add one or more additional detectors. Regardless of the size
P.O. Box 5779, Napa, CA., 94581 of your winery the initial cost of some equipment may be more than you
had in mind so get what you can and add your laboratory equipment to your
T: (707) 252-6911
five-year plan for a fruitful future making great wine. WBM
Visit our web site at www.avf.org for information
on funding and current research projects

54 November 2015 WBM

 We want to say thank You!
TO THE
Alpha Omega
B Cellars Vineyards and Winery
Boisset Collection
Bronco Wine Company
Cakebread Cellars
Chappellet Winery
Chateau Lane Winery and
D’Ambrosio Vineyards
Clos Du Val Wine Co.
Constellation Brands
Crimson Wine Group
Delicato Family Vineyards
Distingusihed Vineyards
& Wine Partners
Duckhorn Wine Company
E&J Gallo
Ehren Jordan Wine Cellars /
Failla Wines
Presented by winejobs.com
The wine industry’s leading online job site
800-895-9463 www.winejobsSUMMIT.com
2015 Registered Wineries
Far Niente Winery Rutherford Wine Company
Fetzer Silver Oak Cellars
Francis Ford Coppola Winery St. Francis Winery & Vineyards
Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyards / Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars
Freixenet USA
Terlato Wine Group
Grgich Hills Estate
The Hess Collection Winery
Gundlach Bundschu Winery
The Napa Valley Reserve
Honig Vineyard & Winery
The Ranch Winery
Huneeus Vintners
The Wine Group
Inglenook
Treasury Wine Estates
Jackson Family Wines
Trinchero Family Estates
Luna Vineyards Inc.
V2 Wine Group
PlumpJack
Vineyard 29 LLC
Precept Wine
Wente Family Estates
Ram’s Gate Winery
Williams Selyem
Renteria Vineyard Management
Winery Exchange
Rombauer Vineyards
winemaking
Monitoring Nitrogen
Levels in Wine
Jenny Jasinska-Olsen
Jenny Jasinska-Olsen is the global product line manager for electrodes
and solutions for Thermo Fisher Scientific in Waltham, Massachusetts. She
has a B.S. in chemistry and an MBA, and is a wine enthusiast.
N I T R O G E N I S A K E Y nutrient that yeast requires during the fermenta-
tion process, and controlling its levels is essential since it can influence the
flavor, aroma and quality of the resulting wine. In order for wine to present
a consistent profile from different batches of grapes, it is essential to ensure
the correct levels of nitrogen are available at the appropriate times during the
fermentation process.
There are several different methods winemakers can use to test for nitrogen,
depending on the size and capacity of the winery’s operations. Some methods
can be carried out in almost any facility size while others require advanced
equipment that is only suited to large-scale operations. In this review, we will
outline the different types of nitrogen present in the grape and examine the
techniques used by winemakers to measure nitrogen levels and subsequently
optimize fermentation.
How Much Nitrogen is Needed?
Other than glucose and fructose, nitrogen is the most important nutrient
for a successful fermentation. Nitrogen is contained in the grape, and its
total content can vary widely between varietals and vineyards, typically
ranging from less than 50 mg per liter to more than 1,000 mg per liter.
Nitrogen is, however, found in many different forms—each with slightly
different chemical composition—and not all forms are metabolized by
yeast during fermentation. Yeast Assimilable Nitrogen (YAN) is the form
required for fermentation, and it is present as ammonium salts and Free
Alpha-amino Nitrogen (FAN).
Ammonia is the simplest form of nitrogen found in the grape and is formed
by cellular breakdown reactions, whereas FAN is a more complex form of
nitrogen and is found in the amino acids of the grape cells. Both of these
nitrogen forms are important for effective fermentation, but their levels are
independent of each other since they result from different cellular processes.
During fermentation, both forms of nitrogen are used by yeast, with
ammonia utilized first followed by FAN later in the fermentation. It is impor-
tant that the right amount of nitrogen is available to yeast during the entire
fermentation process. Too little nitrogen can result in a slow, stuck or “stinky”
fermentation, as lack of nitrogen leads yeast to break down sulfur-containing
amino acids, resulting in the production of sulfur dioxide. To ensure an
56 November 2015 WBM
E
E
N
P
N
E
P N
N P PN
N
P
P P
N
E
E E
N
7 Nitrogen 14.0067
adequate nitrogen supply, winemakers often add ammonia as Diammonium
Phosphate (DAP), as well as FAN in the form of complex amino acids found
in yeast extract, prior to and during fermentation. At the other end of the
spectrum, high volumes of nitrogen (exceeding 450 to 500 mg per liter)1 can
lead to excessive fermentation and the production of undesirable compounds
that result in wine spoilage. It is, therefore, extremely important that optimal
levels are maintained throughout the process.
Recommending an optimum nitrogen dosing level is difficult since the
required amount and dose timing depend on a number of factors, such as
the yeast strain, fermentation progress and the original nitrogen and sugar
concentration in the grape. According to a study by the UC Davis Department
of Viticulture and Enology, optimal YAN content for fermentation correlates
to the amount of sugar present in the grape as determined by specific gravity
measurement (°Brix).
• 200 mg N/L for 21° Brix
• 250 mg N/L for 23° Brix
• 300 mg N/L for 25° Brix
• 350 mg N/L for 27° Brix
Testing for Nitrogen
Since the level of nitrogen can greatly influence the quality of the resulting
wine, it is important to monitor levels throughout the fermentation process
and adjust them as required. Winemakers can measure YAN or measure
ammonia and FAN individually, depending on the depth of analysis
required and available equipment budget. The aim of nitrogen analysis is to
provide data that the winemaker can use to control fermentation and ensure
consistency in each batch.
The simplest way of measuring YAN involves a formol titration. This titra-
tion can be performed using a pH meter. Measuring YAN this way throughout
the fermentation process often provides enough information for the wine-
maker to make critical dosing decisions. As a simple and economical choice,
formol titration offers the additional benefit of enabling the winemaker to
measure titratable acidity at the same time, with a slight modification to
 Cherish every drop
the procedure. Separate ammonia analyses can be performed by adding an
ammonia ion selective electrode. By changing the electrode, the winemaker
can also use the pH/ISE meter to perform a number of other critical tests,
such as pH, potassium, and titratable acidity, or a titration to determine
sulfur dioxide content.
If the wine producer would like to analyze other forms of nitrogen, such
as FAN, and test for other compounds, the use of a spectrophotometer may
be required. Using a spectrophotometer, a winemaker can measure ammonia
and amino nitrogen levels using enzymatic methods (for ammonia or amino
nitrogen) or a dye binding test, such as NOPA (amino nitrogen by o-phthal-
dialdehyde assay). While a spectrophotometer represents a large initial
investment and has higher operating costs due to the continual investment
required in replacing reagents, it is more versatile as it can be used to test
other parameters that might be of interest. Parameters that can be measured
with a spectrophotometer (with the correct reagent) include glycerol, sulfur
dioxide, sugars, acids, color and phenols. Depending on the winery’s produc-
tion facilities, the ability to analyze some of these parameters could help the
Reduce water usage by up to
winemaker find ways to improve wine quality. 85% with our tank and barrel
cleaning devices.
Adjusting Nitrogen Levels Engineered to provide a thorough clean of any
Many winemakers add a standard amount (around 100 to 300 mg per liter)
size tank or barrel, our patented products will
of DAP to juice or must to increase the rate of fermentation before actually
measuring nitrogen levels2. As discussed above, it is very important to adjust
save time, money and resources while preserving
nitrogen based on the required flavor profile, as too much DAP can cause product quality.
the wine to become overly acidic. This is due to the presence of phosphoric
acids that are formed as by-products when yeast consumes nitrogen. To By implementing our rotary impingement tank
ensure that fermentation doesn’t become too rapid, nitrogen levels should and barrel cleaning devies to their process, our
be measured from the offset and DAP added in small quantities determined customers have experienced:
by this measurement. • 85% decrease in water and chemical
Another method of increasing nitrogen levels is through the addition of usage
complex amino acids in the form of yeast extract prior to fermentation. Yeast • 80% reduction in time spent cleaning
extract is primarily comprised of the more complex forms of nitrogen, such • 20% boost in productivity
as FAN, and also contains other vitamins and micronutrients that could
improve wine quality.

Perfecting the Art of Winemaking

Nitrogen is a very important nutrient in fermentation, and it can heavily
influence the aroma, taste and character of the end product. Measurement
of nitrogen levels before and throughout the fermentation process gives
winemakers the opportunity to adjust the amount to achieve the desired
quality of wine. Obtaining control over nitrogen levels can help to ensure
consistency across production lots, something that is very important in a
commercial setting.
Winemaking involves artistry, and its subjective nature makes it very diffi-
cult to provide stringent guidelines for the amount of nitrogen and other
nutrients required to produce certain wine profiles. Ultimately, every wine-
maker has their own formula for creating what they consider the “perfect”
wine. WBM

References

1. Leonardelli. M, “Why, When, and How to Measure YAN,” Enology News and Best-in-class
Notes, Fall/Winter 2013-2014. service program
2. www.wineserver.ucdavis.edu/industry/enology/fermentation_management/wine/
practices.html
www.gamajet.com

WBM November 2015 57

grape growing

2015 Vineyard Survey Report:

Where Do We Get Our Dr. Mark Greenspan has over a quarter

Water and What Are

century of scientific viticulture research and
viticultural field experience. He specializes in
irrigation and nutrition management, yield and

We Doing With It?

canopy management, vineyard climate and
microclimate, vineyard design and vineyard
technology. He is the founder of Advanced
Viticulture, Inc. based in Windsor, California
(www.advancedvit.com), providing consulting,
It’s no secret. Most growers get their water from technology, vineyard management and vineyard
the ground. development for wineries, winemakers and wine
growers devoted to producing premium wines.
Please direct queries to mark@advancedvit.com
or 707-838-3805.
Mark Greenspan

WELL, AS OF THIS issue, I’ve been writing this column for Wine
Business Monthly for a full 10 years! Without a single miss! It continues to
be a joy to write about viticultural topics, and I learn as I go, so writing this
column has been personally and professionally beneficial to me. I’m both
humbled and honored to hear people in the industry tell me they enjoy my
column in this magazine. I suppose the ones that don’t like it don’t read it.
Whatever the case, keep giving me feedback, positive or negative. It feeds the
fire that keeps me doing this every month without fail.
One topic I’ve covered probably more than any is water and irrigation.
Perhaps that’s because I’ve studied it, researched it and practiced it more
than any other topic in viticulture. But, just as likely is that it’s plainly and
simply a super important topic, agriculturally, socially and economically.
So, maybe that’s why it’s a primary topic of questions for the Wine Business
Monthly annual Vineyard Survey Report.
There were 283 respondents to the 2015 Wine Business Monthly Vineyard
Survey. The majority of respondents (63 percent) were growers or vineyard
management companies while only 31 percent were wineries. Nearly all of
the respondents had a role as a vineyard manager, viticulturist, president or
owner of their business, so there was a good chance that they had a good idea
about what their company has been doing. Unlike many previous surveys,
respondents to this one were mostly outside of California (54 percent), with
the majority of non-California respondents coming from Oregon (12 percent
of total). Within California, the North and Central Coast regions represented
33 percent of the total respondents, with the remaining responses coming
from throughout the United States, plus four responses from Canada.
Just over half of the respondents claimed to have vineyard acreage under 24
acres, which should be considered when viewing these results, as the majority
of vineyard acreage in California is comprised of much larger operations.
Only 10 percent of respondents claimed to have more than 500 acres under
their ownership. However, the growers seemed to be producing higher-end
wines, with 38 percent of them stating that their wines sell for over $25 per
bottle. The value segment was not represented well here, with only 3 percent
of respondents claiming wines under $10 per bottle.
SCOTT SUMMERS

58 November 2015 WBM

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2015 Vineyard Survey Report: Where Do We Get Our Water and What Are We Doing With It?

CHART 1 What tasks do you use vineyard software for? 2013 2015

100%

90%

80%

70%

60%

50%

40%

30%

20%

10%

0%
None – Labor Chemical Farm planning Resource Vineyard Vineyard Tracking of Irrigation Tracking of Decision Tracking of
we don’t tracking application and (equipment) economics monitoring samples scheduling phenology, support, harvested
use and and tracking management and (pests, (petiole, yield expert fruit from
vineyard payroll reporting (development budgeting diseases, soil, fruit) components, systems vineyard to
software of a nutrition, from vineyard fruit maturity, (predict winery with
calendar of water block to lab etc. harvest traceability
operations) status, etc.) date, yield back to
estimation, vineyard
etc.) block
WBM 2015 VINEYARD SURVEY

But First, About Vineyard Software Where Does Your Irrigation Water
There was a lone question about the use of vineyard software by growers. Come From?
Amazing to me, perhaps because I’m a technical person, the use of vineyard It should not come as any surprise, based on the history of asking this
software appears to be quite low among the respondents, with a full question in these surveys, that the vast majority of irrigation water comes
61 percent stating that they do not use vineyard software (C H A R T 1 ). from groundwater reserves (wells). Sixty-two percent of respondents
Perhaps this could be a little misleading since some growers probably use claimed well water as their primary source of water. If this seems like déjà
some type of software for vineyard operations, such as a spreadsheet. And vu, I wrote an almost identical column to this one last year1. The news hasn’t
perhaps this group is biased, being that the majority are small growers. changed much. There has been a slight downward trend in the percentage of
Larger growers are more likely to have need for vineyard software to track
labor, resources, pesticides, harvest, etc. Small growers could potentially do
this on a sheet of paper. Indeed, breaking out the responses from growers CHART 2 Indicate what percentage of your water
larger and smaller than 25 acres, we see that the larger growers are much comes from the following:
100%
more inclined (56 percent of them) to use vineyard software than the
smaller ones (27 percent of them). 90%

Based on the responses in 2015 compared to a similar question in 2013, 80%

the trend suggests that there are more growers using vineyard software now
than there were back then. The two roles that appear to have grown the most 70%

are chemical tracking and farm planning and tracking. Among the larger 60%
growers, labor tracking and payroll and chemical application and reporting
50%
are the most common needs fulfilled by this software, followed by budgeting
and monitoring. 40%
From what I have seen in the market, there are fewer companies now that
30%
offer dedicated vineyard software than there were a few years ago. Some of the
companies have consolidated and are producing integrated, multi-functional 20%
software that fulfills many needs. It may be necessary for smaller growers to
10%
use less vineyard-specific, general agricultural software or perhaps even non-
agricultural applications available at a lower cost than the fully integrated 0%

software packages are offering. well pump from municipal irrigation rain
(subsurface lake or stream district catchment
water) (surface water) system

WBM 2015 VINEYARD SURVEY

60 November 2015 WBM

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2015 Vineyard Survey Report: Where Do We Get Our Water and What Are We Doing With It?

CHART 3 Indicate what percentage of your water comes from the following: (by region)
well (subsurface water) pump from lake or stream (surface water) municipal irrigation district rain catchment system
100%

90%

80%

70%

60%

50%

40%

30%

20%

10%

0%
California California California California California Oregon Washington Southeast Great Lakes Southwest Northeast The Plains
Sonoma Napa Central Coast Northern Other Idaho
Interior
WBM 2015 VINEYARD SURVEY

users reporting well water, down from 68 percent in 2009 and 65 percent in
2014. The results, however, could be biased because of the higher percentage
of non-California respondents to this survey. The remainder of agricul-
tural-scale users (i.e., not using municipal sources) were divided up rather
equally among surface water (ponds, reservoirs and streams), rain catch-
ment systems (surprisingly high) and irrigation districts (C H A R T 2 ). It is
quite possible that some respondents interpreted surface water as rainwater
catchment and vice-versa. Rainwater catchment was not a response option
in 2009, but was in 2014.
Across the various regions that were represented by this survey, it appears
that Californians are heavily dependent on groundwater for their irrigation,
though they are not alone (C H A R T 3 ). The only regions where groundwater
does not appear to be king were in Washington/Idaho, where irrigation
districts provide the majority of water needs. Even there, however, almost
one-third of them did report getting their irrigation from well water. In all
other regions, the majority are sucking their water out of the ground.
Of course, if one is using well water as their source of irrigation, it is not
that easy to switch to a different source, especially in only a few years’ time.
And some growers simply do not have any alternatives. Arid regions, such as
much of the California Central Coast, do not receive sufficient rainwater to
capture an effective amount of rainwater. Irrigation districts are present in
some counties and regions, but there will be few, if any, additional districts
set up for the foreseeable future.
From many perspectives, groundwater is a good source for irrigation. It
requires no, or very little, above-ground storage facilities, water is often (but
not always) of high quality, and construction of a well is relatively inexpensive
our future growers. That means we need to be proactive about protecting
the resource for our own use, about managing it sustainably and about using
only the amount of irrigation water needed. Fortunately, we are growing a
relatively low-water-use crop compared to many others. Think about how
this would affect you if you were a nut grower!
Are You Monitoring Your Water Use?
Chances are you are not monitoring your water use, at least not with a flow
meter. Only 36 percent of respondents claimed they are using flow meters to
monitor their water use. So, almost two-thirds of them are not using flow
meters. There has been quite a change in this statistic, however, as use of flow
meters has increased from 25 percent in 2012 to its current level in only three
years (CHART 4) . I suspect that percentage will continue to increase over time
as new groundwater management laws get put into place.
CHART 4 Do you use flow meters to monitor
water usage in your vineyard?
100%
90%
80%
70% No
60%
50%

(compared to reservoirs, irrigation districts, etc.)—and it can be a renew- 40% Yes

able resource. But while vineyard growers are not solely to blame by a long
shot, many groundwater basins are not being sustainably managed and are 30%

becoming depleted, sometimes dramatically so, as I discussed in my column 20%

last June2. Read or re-read that article and then do some more research.
10%
Unless you’ve had your head in the sand (a not-so-funny analogy), you know
that groundwater regulation is in the works here in California, and we won’t 0%
be able to pump water without control. I’m not going to say that makes me 2012 2014 2015
happy, but we can’t simply do whatever we want without consequences to WBM 2015 VINEYARD SURVEY

62 November 2015 WBM

 CHART 5 Do you use flow meters to monitor water usage in your vineyard? (by region) Yes No Don’t know

100%

90%

80%

70%

60%

50%

40%

30%

20%

10%

0%
California California California California California Oregon Washington Southeast Great Lakes Southwest Northeast The Plains
Sonoma Napa Central Coast Northern Other Idaho
Interior
WBM 2015 VINEYARD SURVEY

Use of flow meters varies widely among regions (C H A R T 5 ). Napa and also show higher use of flow meters than North Coast growers, yet less than
Sonoma show only 34 percent and 41 percent of flow meter use, respectively, one-half of growers report using them.
while Central Coast growers show 66 percent usage—the highest percentage I suppose many growers simply count hours of irrigation and compute the
of any region. Northern Interior California and other regions of California amount of water used that way, but that is fraught with potential error due

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WBM November 2015 63

2015 Vineyard Survey Report: Where Do We Get Our Water and What Are We Doing With It?

to leaks and blow-outs, clogs in drip irrigation systems and/or inaccurate

reporting by irrigation staff. Flow monitoring will be required throughout
How Much Do We Irrigate?
I found this interesting. First, one out of five respondents do not know
California, I can almost guarantee. There are federal and state programs
how much they irrigate (C H A R T 6 ) . I hope that they would endeavor to
available to offset much of the cost of purchasing and installing these meters,
improve their knowledge level in this respect. Also, 23 percent reported that
and growers should take advantage of those programs while they are avail-
they dry-farm. I was surprised at how high a percentage that was until I
able. It won’t do any good to keep looking the other way. They will eventually
looked at the regional responses (C H A R T 7 ). About 10 percent of California
find you.
growers dry-farm their grapes, which is still more than I suspected. Outside
And on the positive side, don’t you want to know how much you are
of California, dry-farming is more commonplace, such as in Oregon, the
applying to your vineyards? How else will you know if you are making
Southeast, Great Lakes and Northeast regions.
improvements in efficiency and also producing hard evidence to show how
Of those who irrigate, the plurality of respondents (22 percent) apply up
sustainable your irrigation practices are? Our non-farming neighbors think
to but not more than 30 gallons per vine. The percentages taper off quickly
we waste water, but we use less than they do for their houses per acre. Let’s
above that benchmark, with only 5 percent reporting they use more than 120
show them some evidence for that.
gallons per vine. In cool-climate Sonoma County, most of the growers who
know how much they irrigate reported using less than 30 gallons per vine (42
CHART 6 How much water do you use percent of respondents), not including the 11 percent who say they dry-farm.
PER VINE per season? Napa is a bit warmer than Sonoma in most growing sites, and fewer irrigate
100%
under 30 gallons per vine, but a large number (41 percent) irrigate between
90%
30 and 60 gallons per vine.
80% The Central Coast, Northern Interior and other regions of California are
the only ones reporting massive applications of water, with over 120 gallons
70%
per vine per year. About one quarter of those respondents fell into that
60% category. So, the regions that have the least natural water resources use the
most gallons of irrigation. Makes sense but it also is quite concerning. My
50%
guess is that many of those high water users could apply far less than 100
40% gallons per vine and still get their economic yields. Some low hanging fruit
30%
there, I think.

20% Methodology
Wine Business Monthly received 283 responses to this year’s survey.
10%
Fifty-nine percent of all respondents were vineyards with less than 24
0% acres. The remaining 41 percent of respondents had more than 25 acres.
Don’t 0- Up to 30 30-60 60-90 90-120 Over 120 The survey was conducted via the Internet. Forty-seven percent of
know Dry farm gallons gallons gallons gallons gallons
respondents were from California with the rest from outside California.
WBM 2015 VINEYARD SURVEY

CHART 7 How much water do you use PER VINE per season? (by region)
Don’t know 0 – Dry farm Up to 30 gallons 30-60 gallons 60-90 gallons 90-120 gallons Over 120 gallons
100%

90%

80%

70%

60%

50%

40%

30%

20%

10%

0%
California California California California California Oregon Washington Southeast Great Lakes Southwest Northeast The Plains
Sonoma Napa Central Coast Northern Other Idaho
Interior
WBM 2015 VINEYARD SURVEY

64 November 2015 WBM

science
a platform for progress
66th ASev
national conference
June 15 –18, 2015
Scrutiny over agricultural and certainly winegrape
Portland water Downtown
Marriott use will continue
to accelerate, as it has been doing for decades. EvenHotel
Waterfront if the drought subsides,
we will be tested over our consumption Portland,
of water resources. Standing firm
with pitchforks and shotguns won’t work, so weUSA
Oregon need to not only do a better
S P e c i A
job at using water wisely and efficiently, we need to l let the public know we
e v e n t S
are doing so and not in an empty, unsubstantiated way. Using groundwater
resources is okay if we are doing so in a• sustainable
Merit Award Presentation —
manner. Let’s be honest
Mr. E.B. “Pete” Downs,
with ourselves. Not all of us have been doing so. WBM
Consulting Enologist and
Retired Senior VP for External Affairs,
Kendall-Jackson, California
REFERENCES
• Extension Distinction Award
1
Mark Greenspan. 2014 Vineyard Survey Report: Water Use in Vineyards. Wine
Presentation
Business Monthly, December 2014. • 2nd International Symposium on
2 Nitrogen
Mark Greenspan. Dwindling Water Resources in Grapes and
for Agriculture. WineWine
Business
Monthly, June 2015. • Tour of Columbia Gorge and Wineries
Visit our website for updates
• Research Reports
on the 2015 program.
• Oregon Regional Wine Reception
www.asev.org • Industry Seminars & Supplier Displays
530-753-3142 • Outreach Seminar — Balancing Vines
and Wines from Coast to Desert
• Student Flash Talks

MeMBeRS SAve!
Member registration fees are significantly American Society for
lower than non-member fees. Apply online! enology and viticulture
ASEV Updates
Periodically, I will post communications regarding the American Society
for Enology and Viticulture (ASEV). Check them out and consider
becoming a member if you are not already. You can learn more about

Put Your Money

membership at asev.org or contact me at mark@advancedvit.com.
ASEV is excited to announce Markus Keller as the new science editor
of the ASEV publications, the American Journal of Enology and Viti-

Where Your Frost Is!

culture (AJEV) and Catalyst: Discovery into Practice, effective March
1, 2016. In this capacity, Dr. Keller will direct the strategic planning of
AJEV and Catalyst to guide the development of journal features and
functionality, and to ensure the scientific rigor of the journals. As science Precision Frost Protection,
editor, Dr. Keller will serve as chair of the ASEV Publications Committee
and will be a voting member of the ASEV Board of Directors, acting as a Target Those Frost Pockets!
liaison between the Board and the Publications Committee.
Dr. Keller is the Chateau Ste. Michelle Distinguished Professor of Viti-
culture in the Department of Horticulture at Washington State Univer-
sity’s Irrigated Agriculture Research and Extension Center in Prosser,
WA. His research interests are in viticulture production and grape
physiology. He received his PhD at the Federal Institute of Technology
in Zürich, Switzerland and has more than 20 years of experience in viti-
culture research and teaching in North and South America, Europe and
Australia. He has published numerous scientific and practical articles and
is the author of The Science of Grapevines: Anatomy and Physiology.
The appointment of Dr. Keller as science editor is a three-year term,
with an end date of February 28, 2019. Dr. Keller replaces Linda
SHuR FARMS Frost Protection
Bisson, who has served as AJEV science editor since 2001. With this Colton, CA
(909) 825-2035
new appointment, Dr. Keller will work closely with Dr. Bisson and ASEV info@shurfarms.com
managing editor Raquel Abad in order to ensure a seamless transition.

READ MORE ABOUT IT AT

On a personal note, Keller is an immensely knowledgeable viticulturist,
lecturer and scientist, but beyond that he is a wonderful and enjoyable
person, and I look forward to working with him on the ASEV board.
— Mark Greenspan, ASEV President, 2015-16 www.shurfarms.com

WBM November 2015 65

grape growing

Optimizing Irrigation
According to Grape Variety
Thibaut Scholasch, PhD, Agro-oenologist, Fruition Sciences Inc.

Thibaut Scholasch holds a PhD in viticulture from the French National Institute of Agronomy at Montpellier,
France. His research focused on vine water status variations under dry climates and their consequences on berry
ripening. Scholasch also serves as a scientific consultant for various high-end vineyards in Napa Valley. Prior to
his PhD, Scholasch worked as a winemaker for various companies throughout the world (Chile, California, France
and Australia). In 2001, he was hired by Robert Mondavi Winery as a research viticulturist: his projects focused
predominantly on mapping vineyard variability, analyzing vineyard practices and vine water deficit impact on fruit
composition. Scholasch earned a Master’s degree in viticulture and enology in 1997 and a master’s degree in
winemaking in 1998 from SUPAGRO, one of the top agronomy schools in France.

(ABOVE) Sap flow sensor for measuring vine water use

(RIGHT) Connected vines for continuous monitoring

U N D E R S TA N D I N G T H E L I N K S B E T W E E Nclimate and grape variety

to diagnose vine water needs is crucial for optimizing practices (irrigation,
How to Describe the Effect
cover crop or exposed leaf area management) and, thus, control the yield and
of Irrigation on the Vine
By installing sap flow sensors on representative vines of the vineyard block,
quality of production. However, such a diagnosis is complicated. 
it is possible to measure the amount of water used by the plant alone. This
Even when soil, climate and leaf area size are the same, and when plenty
measurement includes altogether the effects of genotype, leaf area and
of soil water is available, the daily volume of vine water use varies according
environmental conditions on vine water use. Since 2008, thanks to this
to the genetic origin of the vine. Furthermore, when soil moisture content
approach, we have characterized the changes in water use throughout
becomes limiting, vine water use regulation in response to water deficit also
contrasting soil and climatic conditions (California, Bordeaux, Portugal,
varies according to variety. In order to better understand what a vine really
Argentina, Languedoc).
needs in terms of water, we have been performing vine water use measure-
In 2014, because of the exceptional drought in California, this measure-
ments directly on vines planted in commercial vineyards for the past eight
ment became a strategic asset. Thus, thanks to the funding from a water
years. This new information makes it possible to analyze vineyard water use
agency and six independent wineries, we set up an experiment with different
profiles in specific areas of the vineyard. It reveals the pattern of vine water
varieties under contrasting climates. The purpose of the experiment was
use in response to changing environmental conditions. This knowledge
to demonstrate that it is possible to reduce irrigation without negatively
provides a unique perspective to improve irrigation efficiency.
affecting performance or maturation by comparing two treatments: the

66 November 2015 WBM

traditional treatment, where irrigation is triggered according to some of the
common historical practices (visual observations, shoot apex assessment “SureHarvest takes
and leaf or stem water potential measurements), and the treatment “sap
flow,” which calculates a level of daily water deficit and triggers irrigation
vineyard management
accordingly. The water deficit index, Ks, is the ratio of actual vine transpira- to the next level.”
tion measured on the vine over the maximum vine transpiration, which is – Chad Vargas, Vineyard Manager, Adelsheim Vineyard
theoretical and based on weather (Allen et al., 2009). As the season unfolds,
Ks gradually declines with declining soil water content. The “speed” of the Chad manages 200 acres of winegrapes
“Sureharvest saves
decline is unique to the plant and varies between 100 (no water deficit) and me about 26 hours in Oregon’s northern Willamette Valley.
0 percent. Irrigation is triggered every time Ks reaches a threshold defined per month by He uses SureHarvest Farming MIS to
streamlining the
by the user. process of data man- schedule, track and analyze scouting
The results have confirmed large amounts of water savings (more than 60 agement and report- and sampling, chem-fert applications,
ing. i’ve cut the time
percent on average) under the sap flow treatment, despite the drought. Through irrigation, yield forecasting, harvest
it takes to do payroll
regular samplings, vine growth and fruit maturation were monitored during in half, freeing me up and labor.
the season. The comparison between the two treatments shows that sugar to focus on what’s
really important.”
accumulation rate and yields were not different. In addition, fruit oenological
quality is preferred when less water is applied, which was a direct effect of a
moderate water deficit imposed before veraison (Deluc et al., 2009). 
These results show that it is possible to improve irrigation strategy and save
SuStainability from the ground up
a lot of water without degrading vineyard production performance. It also
reveals that traditional viticultural practices tend to overestimate the need
for irrigation, even in areas where water is becoming scarce. Consequently,
by measuring vine water use variations, vineyard managers and winemakers
may learn how to refine and optimize irrigation strategies with the confidence
that the level of vine water deficit is not detrimental to vineyard performance.
Visit www.sureharvest.com Call 831.477.7797 for a demo.

WBM November 2015 67

Optimizing Irrigation According to Grape Variety

4.0$
4.0

3.5$

Transpira6on    (mm)  
3.5

A 3.0$
3.0

(A)   2.5$
2.5

2.0
2.0$

1.5
1.5$

1.0
1.0$
31)Jul$ 10)Aug$ 20)Aug$ 30)Aug$ 9)Sep$ 19)Sep$
8$8

Deficit  en  vapeur  d’eau  (kPa)  

7$7
6$6
5$5

(B)   B 4$4
3$3
2$2
1$1
0$0
31)Jul$ 10)Aug$ 20)Aug$ 30)Aug$ 9)Sep$ 19)Sep$
)0.6$
-0.6

)0.7$
-0.7
Poten6el  de  6ge  (MPa)  

)0.8$
-0.8

)0.9$

C
-0.9

)1.0$
(C)   -1.0

(ABOVE) Aerial photography (May): measurement sites for each )1.1$

-1.1
treatment are located in homogeneous areas
-1.2
)1.2$
( B E L O W ) California map of measurement sites.
-1.3
)1.3$
31)Jul$ 10)Aug$ 20)Aug$ 30)Aug$ 9)Sep$ 19)Sep$
Understanding the Sensitivity
of Varieties to “Heat Waves”
FIGURE 2: water deficit variations during 4 heat waves,
The effect of variety on vine water use variations, as a function of air and
Cabernet sauvignon, non-irrigated
soil moisture deficit, has been reported in literature (Prieto et al., 2010)
(A) Vine transpiration (sap flow);
and remains a topic of current research (Rogiers et al., 2012). In practice,
(B) Vapor pressure deficit (weather station);
how can we incorporate grape variety sensitivity to water deficit in order to
(C) Stem water potential (Pressure chamber).
improve irrigation?
F I G U R E 2 A shows a period of sunny days in Northern California during
the 2010 season. F I G U R E 2 B shows that between August 24 and September
These observations are in agreement with the literature (Edwards
15, four heat waves are recorded. The intensity of each episode is measured
et al., 2013; Santesteban et al., 2011) and show that vine water use is
by daily peak height reached by air vapor pressure deficit, which indicates
strongly modulated by atmospheric water deficit, even as soil becomes
evaporative demand (F I G U R E 2 B ). The dotted lines show that vine tran-
progressively drier.
spiration increases in response to each heat wave (F I G U R E 2 A ). While the
Consequently, to go one step further to improve irrigation strategy, one
intensity of each heat wave decreases with time (red crosses F I G U R E 2 B ),
could account for grape variety-specific sensitivity to atmospheric water
stem water potential becomes progressively less negative even though less
deficit. We can distinguish two variety groups according to vine response
water is available in the soil (no rain and no irrigation). 
under heat waves. 
Cabernet Sauvignon vines respond to heat waves by increasing water use as
The “optimistic” varieties (anisohydric) increase water use under high
well as the “tension” under which water is flowing through the plant. These
evaporative demand and show a marked drop in leaf and stem water poten-
two phenomena result in a rise in vine water outflow while stem water
tial. The “pessimistic” varieties (isohydric) also increase water use under high
potential becomes more negative. After the heat wave, stem water potential
evaporative demand but in a more limited range and show a smaller drop
becomes less negative even if the availability of soil water has decreased. 

68 November 2015 WBM

in leaf and stem water potential. Under a similar climatic demand and for a
given plant size, an “optimistic” variety, such as Syrah or Sémillon, will use a
larger volume of available soil water compared to a “pessimistic” variety, such
as Cabernet Sauvignon. Furthermore, vine water use measurements show
that, irrespective of grape variety, recently irrigated vines increase their water
use more strongly during a heat wave than vines not recently irrigated.
Variety Sensitivity to Nighttime
Transpiration
Despite the fact that stomata are mostly closed at night, several studies
have shown that significant water losses may take place at night (Rogiers
et al., 2009). Thus, depending on the variety and environmental condi-
tions, nighttime transpiration may represent between 5 to 30 percent of the
water loss measured during the day (Coupel-ledru et al., 2015). Because of
nighttime transpiration, plant tissue rehydration during the night is incom-
plete, and predawn leaf water potential does not always reach equilibrium
with soil water potential. Accordingly, leaf water potential becomes more
negative and suggests that there is less water in the soil than the plant really
“sees.” Neglecting the effect of nighttime transpiration leads to an underes-
timation of available soil water content and can lead to unnecessary irriga-
tions (Rogiers 2012; Fuentes et al., 2014). The effect of variety-specific regu-
lation on the amount of nighttime water losses is currently being studied. It
may be a promising research field to identify and select new varieties with a
low level of nighttime water use.
Practical Applications for Irrigation
Through the monitoring of vine water use, vine water deficit variations are
characterized by daily variations of the Ks index.
F I G U R E 3 reports Ks seasonal profiles obtained for two different varieties
with vines of the same age, planted on the same soil, with the same planting
density and row orientation and under the same climatic demand. There was
no rain during the recorded period. The first irrigation was triggered around
800 degree-days (Celsius) for Syrah and 1,000 degree-days for Cabernet
Sauvignon.  and its adaptation to water deficit are genetically controlled by the root-
The two Ks profiles show a declining trend over the season, which corre-
sponds to a declining soil water supply. The slope of Ks decline is faster with
the variety Syrah, and three irrigations had to be applied to maintain the
Ks index above a minimum level, achieving between 25 and 40 percent. By
FIGURE 3
120
  cially after veraison. Depending upon variety-specific water requirements,
Cabernet
 sauvignon
  water loss rates are highly variable at the scale of one day or at the scale of
100
  one season.
Ks
 (%)
80
60
  is key to developing competitive and sustainable viticulture practices. It is
40
Syrah
20
0
400
  600
  800
  1000
  1200
  1400
  1600
Temps
 thermique
 (0C.jour)
contrast, only one irrigation was needed to maintain the Ks index above 40
percent with the variety Cabernet Sauvignon.
The slope of Ks decline, which indicates the progression of water deficit, is
dependent on the variety. Contrasting vine water use regulatory mechanisms
during heat wave or at night, partially explains why varieties can behave
differently. Differences observed across Ks profiles reflect complex mecha-
nisms related to genetic determinism and to vine architecture (hydraulic
conductivity, stomatal conductance, leaf area permeability, cavitation,
hormones, etc.). Furthermore, this determinism can be modulated by
vineyard practices. Thus, Cabernet Sauvignon is reported to behave in an
“isohydric” manner (Hochberg et al., 2013) and Merlot in an “anisohydric”
manner (Chaves el al., 2010), but the answer is less clear for Syrah after irri-
gation (Pou et al., 2014).
In practice, regardless of the variety, optimal irrigation strategy aims at
maintaining Ks above a threshold value. If Ks decline is rapid, response time
to trigger irrigation should be brief. Otherwise, low Ks levels will negatively
impact yield or sugar accumulation. If Ks decline is slow, the winemaker has
more time to anticipate the best time to trigger irrigation. 
According to production objectives, water deficit level, particularly before
veraison, is more or less pronounced by delaying more or less the first irri-
gation date. Finally, under heat waves, one should expect that “optimistic”
varieties use more water and consequently become more sensitive to water
deficit thereafter. Thus, the benefits of an irrigation applied, during a heat
wave, are more limited in time since the water applied is immediately lost,
especially with an optimistic variety. Consequently, vine varieties directly
influence the triggering threshold and the frequency of irrigation strategy.
Perspectives
Increased water scarcity due to the current climatic context requires that we
improve the efficiency of water use, especially in semi-arid areas. By applying
different irrigation regimes for different varieties, significant improvements
in water use management can be made while optimizing production.
Grape variety genetic effect is fundamental, but rootstock effect should
not be overlooked. Recent work has shown that the level of vine water use
stock (Marguerit et al., 2012). In Argentina, Ks profile monitoring shows that
vine water use is reduced with a rootstock compared to own-rooted vine. 
The soil affects vine water use by providing more or less water according
to its textural properties but also by its topography. By increasing climatic
demand, vineyard slope imposes higher levels of vine water use, which
precipitates the onset of water deficit, especially with “optimistic” varieties. 
Finally, a higher crop load imposes higher levels of vine water use, espe-
By integrating all these effects, the direct measurement of vine transpira-
tion offers a way to improve irrigation according to variety. This knowledge
also key to implementing strategies that avoid unnecessary irrigation. WBM
WBM November 2015 69
sales & marketing

Packaging and Design Spotlight

Differentiating for Success
Even minor design tweaks to your wine’s label, bottle shape and
color, and capsule can improve sales. The key to sales success in
an ever-crowded wine market is differentiation by design.

Michael S. Lasky
Michael S. Lasky is the former editor of AppellationAmerica.com and is
the author of hundreds of articles for national magazines and newspapers.

“ O N A R E TA I L E R ’ S S H E L F ,your wine bottle has about 1.4 seconds to

get noticed by the consumer,” said Steve Lamoureux, senior vice president
of product innovation and design solutions at consumer market research
firm Nielsen.
Lamoureux reported this and other brutal facts about wine retailing in a
Nielsen wine label study commissioned for the Wines & Vines Packaging
Conference held in Napa this past August. “All wine brands have to work
harder to get noticed on store shelves,” he said. Nielsen reports that wine
media spending (advertising) for the last three years has been $90 million
per year, a puny amount compared to the whopping $1.3 billion spent to
advertise beer and $600 million for spirits.
So it follows that packaging is the only advertising that the consumers see
when they shop. “And it’s at the point of sale that most consumers make and consumer preference. “The jobs which a wine package must do well are:
their buying decisions—research reveals that 50 to 80 percent are made at the stand out for visibility and ‘findability,’ get purchased (consumer preference)
retail shelf,” Lamoureux noted. and build the brand (strategic messaging and brand fit).”
With the ocean of new product introductions each year across all price Nielsen focus group-based research uses eye scan technology on computer
tiers, package design is of critical importance. New products help drive sales. screens to pinpoint which art elements of an array of bottles a consumer’s
Nielsen research reports that 12.5 percent of the wine category is new, and eye jumps to in the first four seconds. Then it tracks where eyes go next. This
4,200 items were introduced in the past three years. The shelves are very information can then be used in tweaking design elements of the label, the
crowded, hence the 1.4 second scan of items by the consumer. capsule and the bottle itself.
Accordingly, all parts of a bottle are strategic to the end sale. The bottle Nielsen found that a label’s color, shape and contrast on the bottle were the
size and shape, glass color, the capsule and, of course, the label lend to the main attention getters. Color, symmetry and intrigue held that attention. For
message of the personality of the wine. As Lamoureux explained, package example, research results revealed that a dark label on wines priced under
differentiation is key and is determined by a package’s uniqueness, relevance $10 did not stand out but succeeded well on high-priced wines.

70 November 2015 WBM

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Packaging and Design Spotlight Differentiating for Success

Unique Packaging Made Joe

Wagner’s Wine a Sales Winner
To make his Pinot Noir stand out from the crowd, Joe Wagner,
who started the Meiomi brand in 2006, worked with designer
Tony Auston of Auston Design Group to tweak what was a
basic, traditional label into one that jumped out on the store shelf.
According to Wagner, Auston made essentially small changes to
the original label, but that did the trick as sales took off. “These
small differences make a huge difference in a brand’s life,” Wagner
explained. But a label is just one element in the success story.
Wagner realized from the get-go that the entire package is the
sales vehicle. For Meiomi, at a $20 to $30 price point, he chose
a screw cap, which increased its popularity with bartenders and
on-premise businesses because it was easier to open and stayed
fresher longer, he said. The brand was recently sold to Constel-
lation Brands for $315 million. Wagner is now focused on his
current company, Copper Cane Wine & Provisions.
As one of the presenters at the Wines & Vines Packaging
Conference, Wagner explained his four-pronged criteria for
brand packaging: exclusivity of design, individuality, purpose
and tell-a-story tradition. He realized, of course, that not only
must a wine bottle attract the consumer but must be trade-
friendly as well.
One need look no further than the bottle design of Wagner’s bench- Further distinguishing Belle Glos bottles is the splotch of wax that covers
mark brand, Belle Glos, a Pinot Noir. “We took a traditional label design but the closure and the top half of the glass, like a melted candle. While the wax
put it on a bottle with a custom, distinctive shape. We now custom-mold all treatment on the sensuously shaped bottle all but screams expensive elegance
our bottles. We use a custom glass color as well,” said Wagner. and distinctiveness, Wagner said he learned the hard way how wax can screw
up the bottling line.
“The future of wax as a packaging element depends on bottling line auto-
mation that can handle wax, safety and ease of use,” he said. Other problems

A Package Wagner had to overcome with the wax on bottles was retailer resistance. “I
had to deal with many complaints from sommeliers and others who disliked

Speaks a the added steps of removing the wax just to get to the cork before it was
removed,” Wagner said.

Thousand The solution to “Waxgate” was an injected molded nylon zipper to easily
remove the wax cap. Now every case of Belle Glos wines also includes direc-

Words
tions for removing the wax. But Wagner added that, ultimately, it was worth
the risky design, and the unique wax closure helps make the bottle prominent
on a crowded shelf.
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72 November 2015 WBM

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 Packaging and Design Spotlight Differentiating for Success

Wine Labels Before and After Redesign

While attending the Wines & Vines Packaging Conference, WBM had the
opportunity to speak with design studio principals, veterans of successful
wine packaging for both original designs and evolved refreshes. We wanted to
find out just what is involved with package updates and asked each designer
how they move from an existing label or bottle design to the updated one.
Consumers are expecting to see the old label, so how as a designer do you Differentiated
manage to create a new label that points back to the old one? strategic positioning
and evocative design
Kevin Reeves, design director, CFNapa are both essential
“I think this usually depends on the size of the brand. If it’s a very large brand, for establishing an
I think the changes are a little more subtle, and I think it’s more of a polish emotional and cognitive
to the common eye of the consumer. A current example of one that we’ve connection between a
worked on recently would be Constellation Brands’ Woodbridge. They just consumer and a brand.
went through a refresh, and they obviously have a huge core following. When historical truth,
“Basically, all we did was make it follow some more current trends, more culture, lifestyle and
current techniques with printing, and just make it feel more for today and try strategic positioning
to get in new consumers while, at the same time, not alienate their current are balanced correctly
core consumers. We want to keep a lot of the things that the current core with artful design,
consumer is really looking for; but, again, just trying to revitalize illustra- the results are both
tions, renew colors, new label sizing, new techniques as far as capsules, visually appealing and
different closures.” commercially successful.
Before After
TAPP-WBM-AD-1015.pdf 1 9/29/15 2:54 PM

CM

MY

CY

CMY

74 November 2015 WBM

 We offer an extensive list
of wine bottle choices
by taking a worl iew.
Diablo Valley Packaging continually searches the
globe to further enhance our offerings of high
quality wine bottles and packaging materials.
The best packaging makes a world of difference.

1 - 8 0 0 - 8 3 9 - 4 6 8 0 • w w w. d v p a c k a g i n g. co m
Associate Member, Wine Institute • Industrial Affiliate, ASEV
GPI Associate Member Company

Wine Business Monthly

Packaging and Design Spotlight Differentiating for Success
Jeff Hester, creative director, Cult Partners
“I think that reinvigorating brands is a completely different beast than doing
something completely from scratch. There is a brand history, there’s brand
equity that needs to be taken into consideration, and they tend not to be the
most innovative projects. I think the real innovation there is just making
it look as clean and modern as you possibly can while still playing to the
heritage of the brand.
“We do this by incorporating some of the elements that were in the old
label into the updated version. We recently updated Kunde Family Winery’s
labels. The before and after labels are very similar. There were certain design
elements on it that were making it look kind of dated and very difficult to
read on the shelf. We just took off everything that was unnecessary to make
the new label clean and modern.”
Before After
The Estate Series is the volume driver for the Kunde brand; however,
consumers perceived it to be a value brand and not worthy of the
$15 to $25 price. Kunde wanted their new packaging to be clean and
elegant so that they would be able to compete with ultra-premium
brands from Napa and Sonoma counties. Cult Partners polished the
typography and inserted typographic quality cues, cleaned up the
information hierarchy, and commissioned an illustration to capture the
large scale and beauty of the Kunde property.
76 November 2015 WBM
Tony Auston, creative director, Auston Design Group
“I think it depends on the brand and the price point and volume. A lot
of times, it’s very important to make a big change. We redesigned Bogle
Vineyard’s main tier, and it was a 100 percent departure from their current
label, and their sales grew 120 percent in one year. It’s continued to grow.
So sometimes the best move you can make is to get away from your old
package. But there’s also arguments for making an evolutionary change,
as well. It just depends on the brand. I think at lower price points you see
more opportunities for more dramatic changes. High-end wines skew more
traditionally.”
Before After
Bogle Vineyards made a drastic change to its label and sales increased
120 percent in one year. Though nearly completely revamped, the
new label still incorporates two birds, which were first drawn out by a
resident in the early days of the brand’s history.
 Harvest
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 Differentiating for Success

Differentiate
P recious resources
to brands of
distinction
Your Brand with
New Glass and
Closure Designs
With wine consumers scanning crowded store shelves, Nielsen research has
found your bottle has just a mere 1.4 seconds to be discovered before the
potential buyer’s eyes move on. Clearly your wine packaging has to stand
out. While the wine label certainly attracts the most attention, studies have
shown that new glass designs, as well as fanciful closures, can be eye-catchers
as well. Here are some examples of creative bottle and closure designs that
can make the difference between a sale and a shelf stiff.

These whimsically designed Many glass vendors now offer

capsules by Jim Moon Designs articulated punts, which in the
add another eye-catching element right light, add an elegant flourish
to the overall bottle design. to otherwise conventional bottles.

Bruni Glass’ beguiling cacti- Bruni Glass’ 750-liter bottle with

shaped bottle differentiates it its scalloped side becomes a
from every other bottle on a convertible carafe when laid on
retailer’s shelf but does call for its side, practical and visually
caution on the bottling line. appealing.
The winemaker and the tin capsule
maker share a similar aspiration: to
transform a raw element into a refined
and elegant product. The worlds of
these artisans merge when you choose
PURE TIN® to crown your most valued
bottles. Pure tin capsules dress
exceptional wines with precision
and elegance, providing a
powerful statement of quality
at every level.

Full bottle plastic laminates can
transform conventional bottles
into eye-popping designs, such as
faux wood and colorful gift wrap.
78 November 2015 WBM
Some vendors offer bottles with
internal textured embossing
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sales & marketing

Wine and Tipping in Restaurants

Will wine sales be affected as restaurants focus on new profit margins?

Liza B. Zimmerman

Liza Zimmerman has been writing, educating and consulting about wine and food for two decades. She is the principal of the
San Francisco-based Liza the Wine Chick consulting firm and regularly contributes to publications such as Cheers Magazine,
DrinkUpNY and the SOMM Journal. She has also worked almost every angle of the wine and food business: from server and
consultant to positions in distribution, education, event planning and sales. She has visited all the world’s major wine-growing
regions and holds the Diploma of Wine & Spirits (D.W.S.), the three year program that is the precursor to the Master of Wine.

The Numbers
It is difficult to ascertain the number of restaurants that have moved forward
with a no tipping policy. Gwyneth Borden, the executive director of the
GGRA, said that, “No one tracks this sort of micro data. At this point it’s
AS THE MINIMUM WAGE continues to rise, the prospect of eliminating
not enough of a trend.”
tipping could benefit both restaurants and their customers. It might even
Ronn Wiegand, editor of the Napa-based Restaurant Wine publication,
provide an additional revenue stream to offer employees benefits and stabi-
said that an “automatic service charge policy has been adopted mostly in
lize their earnings. Added benefits would include better pay for experienced
luxury and high-end restaurants, where service is often excellent, and in
back-of-the-house (BOH) staff and fewer “additional charges” for guests.
other restaurants for larger parties [of eight or more], where it has not
High-end restaurants have generally been the first to take the profit margin
been an issue.” He added that, “Where it is likely to become a problem if
adjustment jump by doing away with tipping. The percentage is frequently
implemented—not just with wine sales but all sales—is in restaurants where
either replaced by a service charge or price increases on the menu. “We began
service is inconsistent or inferior, regardless of cuisine. Then, customers will
considering this, as an option, when healthcare reform and dramatic wage
vote with their feet and go elsewhere.”
increases became a reality,” said Matthew Dolan, executive chef and partner
Carrie and Rupert Blease, the British owners of the new San Francisco
of San Francisco-based restaurants Twenty Five Lusk and Tap 415, who has
British food-focused restaurant Lord Stanley, were considering a service-
not yet implemented a no-tipping policy.
included model while planning their opening. “It is a system we previously
Removing tipping from the picture can actually make wine lists much more
used while living in England, and we feel that it makes sense. This model
customer-friendly, according to some operators. Brian Crookes, manager at
allows us to pay all staff a comfortable wage.” What’s more, they noted that it
the Oakland-based California cuisine restaurant Camino, said that since he
has not seemed to have unfavorably affected wine sales.
eliminated tips, his guests can “take a server’s suggestion at face value rather
than wondering if personal gain plays a role. If that $800 DRCC [Domaine
de la Romanée-Conti] is really going to impress your clients, go for it. But
if this is about dinner—real dinner—the right choice for you might be that
The Anti-tipping Perspective
Like many operators who have worked in Europe, Carl York, director of
little $40 Village Wine.”
operations and beverage director at Boston-area Craigie on Main and The
“I’ve always wanted to eliminate tipping,” said Jennifer Piallat, owner of
Kirkland Tap & Trotter, said that he only sees pluses in eliminating tipping.
Zazie, a French restaurant in San Francisco, which was one of the first to do
“Sommeliers, bus boys, etc. all deserve to be able to plan their lives around
so in June of this year. “I love the feeling in Europe when I know what my
their income… [and] tipping doesn’t allow for that.” He said it also created
meal will cost and I don’t have to judge my server for every generosity or
a culture that detracts from the idea of hospitality.
failing.” As a result, the restaurant raised its pricing by 20 percent; and as a
Piallat from Zazie noted that eliminating tipping has also allowed servers
result, food costs went down by approximately 5 percent.
to stop “judging tables; there’s no more arguing about who’s going to take the
The topic of tipping has been of such interest that it was addressed in a
table or students or French guests.”
panel during the San Francisco-based Golden Gate Restaurant Asso-
The math behind the move means, according to York, that the “food cost,
ciation’s (GGRA) first annual industry conference. A mix of operators, who
as a percentage, would go down because labor would go up: likely some 7
hadn’t all implemented a no-tipping policy, touched on its short-term effects
percent. Successful fine dining restaurants generally run food costs between
and how it might influence future wine sales.
31 and 33 percent. I see that ending up at 24 to 26 percent.”
He added that the shift to a non-tipping environment would be unlikely
to affect wine sales given the fact that many wine programs are already run

80 November 2015 WBM

Wine and Tipping in Restaurants
by salaried employees. “I can see a decrease in motivation for top servers to
push expensive bottles, but we work in a ‘pooled house’ anyway, and a bigger
tip for a big bottle barely affects a server’s salary now.”
Piallat confirmed that the motivation of salaried employees remains strong
to sell, so “this is why I didn’t just give servers a higher hourly rate; I want
them to be driven to sell.” She added that, with the new policy, “They are now
getting 12 percent of every check [including take-out, foreigners, teenagers,
frugal students, etc.].”
York added that fine wine sales are only likely to be lessened if “you don’t
believe that transparency will yield the best results.” In some cases, he admits
that adopting a no-tipping policy might be “a drag for the stereotypical steak
house sharks that push big bottles of red with high price tags, but in true fine
dining I see it as having little or no impact.”
At Twenty Five Lusk, the wine team is also on a base salary and take part in
a tip pool. Chef Dolan added that he is not sure if a move to no tipping would
increase their earnings, “but it would make them steadier.”
Added Advantages
It has long been presumed that many front-of-the-house professionals are
reluctant to move into management as their salaries would be initially reduced.
I have had this personally confirmed by dozens of skilled executives. At the
same time, management wants to see their staff move up through the ranks
and show more commitment to the restaurant than their acting careers. York
agreed that the move to the non-tipping model would leave more doors open
for wine-focused staff to potentially move into senior positions.
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Restaurants that have made the shift admit that they have lost talented
servers, who perhaps weren’t the right fit for the restaurant. According to
Brian Crookes, manager at Camino restaurant, which opened seven years
ago in a depression, the “draw to work at Camino isn’t the money, but then it
never was.” The whole goal, he noted, was “to level the playing field between
the dining room staff and overworked/underpaid back-of-house staff.” The
restaurant also has no dedicated front- and back-of-the house servers, so all
the staff sells “what they are excited about [and] what makes most sense for
the guest.”
The Drawbacks
Operators who have tried to implement a no-tip policy at higher-volume,
lower-price and hipper places haven’t always met with success. At the GGRA
panel Teague Moriarty, one of the chef owners of San Francisco Sons &
Daughters restaurant, tried to eliminate tipping at some of the group’s more
casual restaurants, and it was not well-received.
One of the other questions may be how to close the gap between those who
allow and those who don’t permit tipping. If this happened, everyone would
be on the same boat, said Umberto Gibin, owner of Perbacco and Barbacco
Italian restaurants in San Francisco.
The long-term prognosis of the potential wine industry benefits of elimi-
nating tipping is still inconclusive. Initially, the few pioneering operators
may continue to have greater involvement in their wine programs while
customers decide if they can trust front-of-the-house more with the elimina-
tion of personal profit for each bottle sale. WBM
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sales & marketing
Retail Sales Analysis:
Off-Premise Wine Sales Up 5.6 Percent
O F F - P R E M I S E T O T A L T A B L E W I N E sales increased 5.6 percent from
the same period of the previous year in the four weeks ending Aug. 15, 2015,
according to Nielsen-tracked data. In the 52 weeks ending Aug. 15, wine
sales increased 4.3 percent.
Domestic wine sales increased 5.9 percent while imported wine sales
increased 4.9 percent in the four weeks ending Aug. 15. In case volume during
that same period, domestic case volume grew 2.1 percent while imported
case volume increased 1.4 percent.
The New Zealand, French and Portuguese categories lead the growth for
imported wines: New Zealand wines are up 19.1 percent in sales and 17.7
percent in volume; French wines are up 20.2 percent in sales and 13.7 percent
in volume; and Portuguese wines are up 11.1 percent in sales and 7.1 percent
in volume. Sales and case volume for wines from Australia, Argentina, Chile
and Germany decreased in the four weeks ending Aug. 15.
Sales for wines in the $15 to $19.99 price point segment had the most
growth, increasing 16.9 percent in sales and 15 percent in volume.
Nearly all price point categories had good growth in the four weeks ending
Aug. 15: the $9 to $11.99 segment grew 7.4 percent in sales and 6.7 percent
in volume; the $12 to $14.99 segment increased 13.8 percent in sales and
13.2 percent in volume; and the over $20 segment grew 13 percent in
sales and 14.3 percent in volume. Sales and volume for the less than $2.99
segment dropped in the four weeks ending Aug. 15.
$millions Total Table Wine (last 13 4 week periods)
1,200
2014
1,000
800
Year Ago
600
08/16/14 09/13/14 10/11/14 11/08/14 12/06/14 01/03/15
Source: Nielsen. 4 Weeks Ending 08/15/15
84 November 2015 WBM
By Varietal
Rosé table wine above $7.99, as a category, saw a 61 percent increase in sales
and a 55 percent in volume in the four weeks ending Aug. 15. The category
holds just a 1.3 percent market share in sales and 0.6 percent market share
in volume.
Blended table wine, as a category, is up 8.5 percent in sales and 3.7 percent
in volume in the four weeks ending Aug. 15 and holds a 12.5 percent market
share in sales and a 13.1 percent market share in volume. Of all the blended
table wine, blush leads the growth. In sales, blush blended table wine sales are
up 52.3 percent, and volume is up 41.6 percent.
Red blended table wine is up 10.1 percent in sales and 5.8 percent in
volume, and white blended table wine, meanwhile, is down 2.3 percent in
sales and down 3.2 percent in volume.
Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio/Gris and Sauvignon Blanc also showed good
growth in the four weeks ending Aug. 15. Pinot Noir grew 8.4 percent in
sales and 5.2 percent in volume; Pinot Grigio/Gris grew 8.8 percent in sales
and 8.7 percent in volume; and Sauvignon Blanc grew 15.6 percent in sales
and 12.2 percent in volume.
Cabernet Sauvignon grew 7.1 percent in sales and 4.2 percent in volume.
Cabernet Sauvignon was the second largest selling varietal on the market in
the four weeks ending Aug. 15, representing 15 percent of all wine sales and
12.6 percent of case volume.
2015
01/31/15 02/28/15 03/28/15 04/25/15 05/23/15 06/20/15 07/18/15 08/15/15
4 W EEK S EN D I N G
 Chardonnay, the top-selling varietal on the market, holds a 20.4 percent
market share in sales and a 20.5 percent share in volume in the four weeks
ending Aug. 15. During that period, Chardonnay grew 5.7 percent in sales
and 1.8 percent in volume.
Sales and volume for Syrah/Shiraz, White Zinfandel and Merlot have all
decreased in the four weeks ending Aug. 15. WBM

Nielsen Table Wine Category Segments

U.S. Expanded All Outlets Combined Plus Liquor/Convenience/AAFES

Dollar Volume
weeks ending: August 15, 2015 PERCENT CHANGE vs. YEAR AGO
4 WEEKS 52 WEEK 4 WEEKS 52 WEEK
ENDING ENDING ENDING ENDING
8/15/15 8/15/15 8/15/15 8/15/15

TOTAL TABLE WINE $959,625,440 $12,984,047,386 5.6 4.3

TABLE WINE 187 ML $21,497,180 $268,468,344 6.5 4.5
TABLE WINE 375 ML $1,137,803 $14,057,521 34.2 7.6
TABLE WINE 750 ML $669,584,963 $9,139,943,134 6.7 5.3
TABLE WINE 1 L $2,506,465 $33,798,539 (10.0) 32.4
TABLE WINE 1.5 L $168,558,207 $2,294,231,439 0.8 (0.8)
TABLE WINE 3 L $40,690,376 $508,024,892 13.1 9.5
Premium 3 L Box >$10 $32,618,861 $382,261,558 22.8 17.8
TABLE WINE 4 L $7,599,250 $108,200,265 (3.4) (0.7)
TABLE WINE 5 L $38,656,563 $512,702,788 0.4 0.9
TABLE WINE REM SZ $370,902 $1,517,892 969.0 358.5
TABLE BLUSH $62,174,859 $750,489,974 6.8 0.8
TABLE RED WINE $446,647,751 $6,647,132,685 4.7 5.1
TABLE WHITE WINE $450,547,142 $5,575,275,892 6.4 3.8
DM TABLE WINE $697,098,667 $9,462,764,280 5.9 5.1
IMP TABLE WINE $262,526,770 $3,521,283,102 4.9 2.0
ITALIAN TBL $82,568,280 $1,133,427,045 7.5 5.5
AUSTRALIAN TBL $52,486,429 $737,146,969 (3.6) (5.9)
ARGENTINE TBL $28,660,030 $424,849,512 (0.5) 0.7
NEW ZEALAND TBL $30,203,865 $323,293,947 19.1 16.2
FRENCH TBL $25,202,372 $284,118,551 20.2 5.9
CHILEAN TBL $19,085,422 $278,742,263 (1.0) (1.8)
SPANISH TBL $11,053,804 $158,456,897 (1.6) (0.8)
GERMAN TBL $6,768,570 $99,331,457 (5.4) (6.1)
SOUTH AFRICAN TBL $2,172,308 $27,836,434 2.2 6.0
PORTUGUESE TBL $2,542,249 $25,840,965 11.1 7.7
A/O IMP COUNTRY TBL $1,783,443 $28,239,147 6.7 8.9
VARIETALS $821,536,091 $11,093,934,576 5.4 4.2
GENERIC $138,089,347 $1,890,112,793 7.2 4.8
CHARDONNAY $196,032,849 $2,455,423,472 5.7 2.7
CAB SAUVIGNON $143,749,125 $2,115,257,265 7.1 7.7
BLENDED TABLE WINE $120,302,676 $1,705,864,963 8.5 8.9
BLENDED TABLE WINE RED $95,011,949 $1,406,850,480 10.1 10.8
SWEET RED BLENDS $8,493,954 $119,514,266 10.3 6.5
BLENDED TABLE WINE WHT $21,671,695 $274,838,691 (2.3) (1.5)
BLENDED TABLE WINE BLUSH $3,619,029 $24,195,747 52.3 35.9
PINOT GRIGIO/GRIS $96,523,936 $1,148,887,908 8.8 6.2
PINOT NOIR $61,861,639 $900,425,545 8.4 8.7
MERLOT $58,476,485 $869,092,432 (2.0) (3.2)
SAUVIGNON BLANC $64,926,547 $710,754,776 15.6 11.0
MOSCATO/MUSCAT TBL $48,651,227 $687,293,166 4.5 5.5
WHT ZINFANDEL $25,470,757 $353,515,424 (5.0) (6.5)
MALBEC $19,180,745 $289,273,238 1.9 3.9
RIESLING $19,626,507 $267,981,059 0.7 (0.5)
ZINFANDEL $16,218,082 $241,876,722 1.4 0.5
SYRAH/SHIRAZ $10,072,914 $157,445,199 (11.4) (11.2)
ROSE TABLE 750ML BE >$7.99 $12,183,477 $73,457,645 61.0 38.3
GLOBAL TBL BE $0-$2.99 $60,525,559 $832,678,364 (3.0) (0.9)
GLOBAL TBL BE $3-$5.99 $298,717,883 $4,013,837,937 1.5 (0.3)
GLOBAL TBL BE $6-$8.99 $122,558,417 $1,684,450,964 0.3 (2.4)
GLOBAL TBL BE $9-$11.99 $218,761,365 $2,968,533,359 7.4 7.9
GLOBAL TBL BE $12-$14.99 $128,531,765 $1,705,905,389 13.8 12.2
GLOBAL TBL BE $15-$19.99 $71,051,340 $947,411,224 16.9 14.7
GLOBAL TBL BE >$20 $58,716,206 $824,476,988 13.0 7.8
Source: Nielsen

WBM November 2015 85

technology & business
Directory:
Offsite Barrel Storage
IN THE LAST THREE years, vineyards in California have seen some
incredible harvests. Total tonnage set records in 2012 and 2013, and the 2014
harvest was nothing to blink at either. It was no surprise that many wineries
had to look for more tanks and barrels to ferment these extra grapes in, or
find buyers for the excess fruit, and we’ve talked about what that meant for
grape and bulk wine prices and tank and barrel purchases before.
At the same time, neighbors and city councils across the state have grown
increasingly worried about local wine industries’ footprints. While event
capacities and permits have received the most press in recent months, other
wineries are running into problems expanding their crush and storage
capacity—it has become progressively more difficult, for example, to receive
an increased use or building permit approved by the county to build a new
barrel storage facility.
It has always been easier to add a few more tanks to a facility, and that’s
what’s happened in the last few years. But the problem has been finding a
place for the resulting or displaced barrels. Tanks with incredible heights can
be purchased and added as much as the ceiling will allow, but barrels really
shouldn’t be stacked more than four high, as many winemakers in Napa and
Sonoma learned following a 2014 earthquake as it causes a safety issue, and
in the end that wastes vertical space.
While it may not be right for all wineries, offsite barrel storage facilities
can be a good option for temporarily storing excess barrels. One storage site
reported that capacity has been full the last two years, but will see some extra
space free up this year, as the 2015 harvest is looking to be a bit lighter than
in years past.
Aside from cost, which can vary by location, number of barrels and ancil-
lary services required, there are a few other things to keep in mind.
86 November 2015 WBM
Earthquakes
As learned from the Napa earthquake in August 2014, if barrels aren’t
properly secured or are stacked too high, they can topple over, resulting in
loss of wine and damage to the winery.
“We changed our stacking and strapping methods as a result of the earth-
quake,” said Mike Blom of Napa Barrel Care. “I am working on organizing
a group of wineries to look at implementing the UC Berkeley early warning
earthquake detection system, which is in beta testing.” The UC Berkeley
system would measure seismic activity and try to provide anywhere from
a few to tens of seconds of warning prior to any shaking to give people a
chance to get to safety.
When scoping out a new warehousing facility, ask the sales rep or facility
manager what preparations have been put in place in case of an earthquake.
Are barrels stacked end-to-end, or rather belly-to-belly as some earthquake
and barrel experts recommend? Has an engineer come by to check out the
facility? Are the top racks of barrels strapped down? Are they using four-
barrel racks?
A Note About Insurance
Not all warehouses will have the correct type or amount of insurance to
cover any loss of your product. Before signing the dotted line, it is crucial to
speak with the provider to see what coverage the company has and exactly
what you will be on the hook for should a loss occur. For the most part, the
winery will be responsible for insuring any product stored in a third-party
warehouse. If there is a loss, it will more than likely only be covered by any
policy the winery has. The warehouse policy will only kick in if there is an
unforeseen event that is determined to be the result of warehouse failure
which therefore holds them liable.
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Offsite Barrel Storage
Directory
The barrel storage facilities listed below were pulled from the Wines Vines Analytics database. Companies had to list barrel storage on their websites to be
included. Custom crush wineries are another option for barrel storage, though most will require customers to crush wine at the same facility either. While
not included in this directory, it might be worth contacting a local custom facility to see if barrel storage is available.
Alexander Valley Cellars/AVC Direct
www.alexandervalleycellars.com, 707-838-8700
Alexander Valley Cellars offers storage for case goods, bins and barrels, as
well as dry goods such as corks and knockdowns, in addition to trucking and
order fulfillment. Serving the Sonoma, Napa, Lake, Marin and Mendocino
counties, AVC boasts 250,000 square feet of storage in clean, secure and
climate-controlled facilities.
Mana Wine
www.manawine.com, 201-484-1353, Jersey City, NJ
In addition to storing and managing private wine collections, Mana Wine
offers commercial storage options at its 22,000 square foot cellar. Barrel
storage, case storage, local van and truck deliveries, same-day and next-day
delivery services, protective packaging, shipping supplies, domestic and
international shipping and insurance options.
Michael Dusi Logistics Warehouse, Inc.
www.dusiwinewarehouse.com, 805-237-9499, Paso Robles and Napa, CA
Michael Dusi Logistics Warehouse, Inc. is equipped with both cooling
and fire suppression systems and provides more than 120,000 square feet
of secure, temperature-controlled wine and new barrel storage space in its
Paso Robles and Napa warehouses. The company also offers wine club and
direct-to-consumer fulfillment shipping through FedEx, UPS and Golden
State Overnight.
Napa Barrel Care
www.barrelcare.com, 707-254-1985, Napa, CA
Napa Barrel Care provides wine barrel storage services to existing and
virtual wineries. Napa Barrel Care offers environmentally controlled
space and can provide almost any type of service that you would find in a
complete winery cellar. Other services include rack and return, ozone and
steam treatment, high-pressure hot water wash, wine additions, inventory
tracking, blending, filtration, shipping and receiving, fining, cold stabiliza-
tion and topping.
88 November 2015 WBM
Napa Valley Wine Warehouse
www.nvww.com, 707-963-8220, St. Helena, CA
Napa Valley Wine Warehouse offers case and barrel storage at its ware-
house facility in St. Helena, California.
Sierra Foothills Wine Services
www.sfwinewarehouse.com, 530-344-7721, Placerville, CA
Sierra Foothills Wine Services offers wine case goods and barrel and tank
storage in bond and tax paid, climate controlled, temperature stable and
humidified building. In addition to storage, SFWS offers racking, topping
and stabilizing for barrels and tanks; laboratory services, analysis and trials;
and finishing, blending and bottling for client/negociant wines. A UC Davis
enology graduate is on hand as the consulting winemaker.
Sonoma Valley Custom Wine
www.sonomavalleycustomwine.com, 707-938-8364, Sonoma, CA
Sonoma Valley Custom Wine offers the following services: crushing
and pressing, temperature-controlled barrel fermentation, temperature-
controlled stainless storage, case goods storage, SVC vendor services network,
tank and barrel fermentation, barrel and bulk wine storage, blending and
bottling and full service consulting.
Vintners Logistics, LLC
www.vintnerslogisticsllc.com, 509-783-5544, Kenniwick, WA
Vintners Logistics’ 80,000 square foot warehouse is a state-of-the-art
facility constructed with phenol-free products specifically to handle the
demanding requirements of wineries and industry suppliers including
secure, temperature and humidity controlled, inventory tracked, food grade,
contamination-free storage of bottled and bulk wine. It features industrial
grade refrigeration of 55° F to 60° F, minimum R-30 insulation throughout
the facility and 24-hour centrally monitored, fire, burglary and temperature
alarms. WBM
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BUSINESS AND SCIENCE OF WINEMAKING Director of HR, Duckhorn Wine Co.
AND DEPARTMENT OF VITICULTURE & ENOLOGY
Unparalleled knowledge from internationally renowned faculty who teach
viticulture, enology, and management skills critical to success “UC
in the wineWine
Davis industry.
Executive Program provided me the

March 20-24, 2016

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right tools to ask the right questions. Excellent/superior
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and DEPARTMENT OF VITICULTURE & ENOLOGY Winemaker and Production Manager at Jamieson Ranch Winery
UC Davis Campus
MARCH 22-27, 2015
Gallagher Hall, Graduate School of Management "UC Davis Wine Executive Program is a great program
UC Davis Campus
Robert Mondavi Institute for Wine and Food Science to update my knowledge and understanding of the new
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people
Wineries & Winemaking
The owners of Bouchaine Vineyards, the oldest continuously operating
winery in the Carneros District, hired winemaker Paul Hobbs as its consul-
tant. The move is on the heels of hiring a new winemaker and general
manager this spring, Carneros winemaker Chris Kajani, formerly winemaker
of Saintsbury. Hobbs has twice been named “Wine Personality of the Year”
by Robert M. Parker, Jr. and was recently called “The Steve Jobs of Wine”
by Forbes.com. In addition to his consulting practice, he is the owner
of Paul Hobbs Wines and CrossBarn Winery in Sonoma County, and is
partner in several wineries including Viña Cobos in Mendoza, Argentina,
Crocus in Cahors, France, and a new vineyard development in New York’s
Finger Lakes region.
Bogle Vineyards, a family owned and operated winery, announced the
appointment of Eric Ariyoshi as director of marketing. Ariyoshi is a veteran
of the wine and spirits industry, with experience building brands at Campari
America, DFV Wines and Treasury Wine Estates. He earned his masters
of business at the University of Michigan’s Ross School of Business and his
undergraduate degree from University of Pennsylvania’s Wharton School.
The Other Guys (TOG), a family-owned and operated wine company
based in Sonoma, California, brought in Alex Beloz as consulting wine-
maker. The Other Guys portfolio of wines include: Leese-Fitch, Pennywise,
Plungerhead, The White Knight, Hey Mambo, Moobuzz and Gehricke.
Beloz will be overseeing winemaking for Moobuzz, The White Knight and
Gehricke wines. Beloz comes to TOG with more than 15 years of premium
winemaking experience. He is currently (and will remain) the winemaker
at Tricycle Wine Company helping build the Poseidon Vineyards and
Obsidian Ridge Wines. Prior to that his experience includes winemaking
abroad in Bordeaux, France with Vignoble Despagne, Hawkes Bay, New
Zealand with Thornbury Wines, and Casablanca, Chile with Kingston
Family Vineyards.
• Applications for ABC and TTB licenses
• Distribution agreements & direct shipping advice for all states
• ABC and TTB Business Practice Counseling
• Accusation, Defense and Protest Hearing Representation
• Regulatory clearance of promotions, point-of-sale material,
labels and advertising
ATTORNEYS:
John Hinman • Lynne Carmichael • Beth Aboulafia
Sara Mann • Rebecca Stamey-White • Suzanne DeGalan
260 California Street, Suite 700 • San Francisco CA 94111
Telephone 415.362.1215 • Facsimile 415.362.1494
BeverageLaw.com
90 November 2015 WBM
NakedWines.com Angel investors crowd-funded Washington state wine-
maker Katy Michaud. Michaud secured $500,000+ and counting in Angel
crowdfunding to develop her own brand on her own terms. After a stint as
a Colorado-based snowboarder and Deadhead, Michaud discovered her
love for wine and got her winemaking diploma from UC Davis. Michaud has
worked with Bonny Doon, David Bruce Winery, Canoe Ridge Vineyard,
Kim Crawford Wines and Covey Run.
Deborah Detrick joined Round Pond Estate as vice president, finance.
In this position Detrick will have full responsibility for the finance and
accounting functions and team. Detrick brings more than 20 years of
financial and accounting experience. She holds a bachelor’s degree in
business administration from St. Mary’s College. Detrick began her career
in the wine industry at St. Supery and has worked for Beam Wine Estates,
Terlato Wine Group and, most recently, for Pernod Ricard USA as the
finance director at Mumm Napa Valley. She brings extensive financial,
accounting and leadership experience, with responsibility for substantial
budgets and reporting.
Douglas Allan joined Wine Creek, LLC as brand manager for its Quivira
Vineyards and La Follette Wines. Allan joins Wine Creek from Crimson
Wine Group in Napa, where he was the brand manager responsible for
Seghesio Family Vineyards and Chamisal Vineyards. He has experience
in all aspects of brand marketing and sales and will focus his efforts on the
trade channel with Wine Creek. Prior to joining Crimson Wine Group, where
he worked for more than two years, Allan was the managing director and
co-founder of Stacked Wines, a pre-poured, single-serve wine package.
Scheid Family Wines hired Andrew Powell as the company’s West Coast
regional sales manager. Powell brings more than 17 years of wine sales
experience to the position. He most recently worked for The Wine Group
where he served as director of national accounts since 2012 and as division
manager, California/Nevada/Hawaii since 2010. Prior to that, Powell was
with E&J Gallo Winery for 13 years where he achieved Black Belt certifica-
tion with Lean Manufacturing and Six Sigma methodologies.
Industry Services & Suppliers
Tapp Label Company added Jeff Licht as the new director of quality
systems today. He brings more than 20 years of experience in the printing,
packaging, automotive, and plastics industries. Most recently, Licht held the
position of chief quality officer with CPI Card Group and spent the previous
nine years with a large North American label manufacturer. Licht specializes
in driving marked improvements in quality and efficiency through Quality
and Lean Six Sigma methods and processes. He is a Six Sigma Black Belt,
a senior member of the American Society for Quality and holds a Masters
of Business Administration of Bellevue University.

Associations & Education
Mendocino Winegrowers, Inc. announced the appointment of Bernadette
Byrne as the group’s new executive director. Byrne has more than 30 years
of experience in the California wine business and has spent the last 28
years living and working in Mendocino County. Byrne’s career began in
production jobs in the Napa Valley. She spent 10 years working for Fetzer
Vineyards and the Fetzer family in various positions ranging from director
of hospitality to training director and special events coordinator. During
those years she also served as president of the Mendocino County Vintners
Association. After leaving Fetzer Vineyards, she was executive director of
the Mendocino Winegrowers Alliance (previously named the Mendocino
County Vintners Association) and director of marketing for McDowell
Valley Vineyards. She left McDowell in 2007 and started her own business,
SIP! Mendocino in Hopland, the county’s first comprehensive and exclusive
retail outlet for Mendocino county wines.
Bernadette Byrne
For people news you can search or filter visit winebusiness.com/people
The Red Mountain AVA Alliance appointed Jennifer Nance as its execu-
tive director. The Alliance serves as the central contact point for the AVA’s
public relations, marketing and regional issues. In her role, Nance will be
responsible for planning and implementing a communications agenda to
encourage further recognition of the Red Mountain AVA as one of the
great appellations in the world for Cabernet Sauvignon-driven wines.
Nance brings seven years of experience in the Washington wine industry.
She received her Bachelor of Science degree in global wine studies from
Central Washington University. Her wine industry experience includes the
position of general manager of direct-to-consumer operations for a nation-
ally distributed winery and Northwest account executive for a Napa-based
wine marketing firm.
#WineLover Community has named their first Canadian ambassador,
Leeann Froese, who hails from British Columbia, one of Canada’s most
established wine regions. The #WineLover Community, founded by Luiz
Alberto of The Wine Hub on February 14, 2012, is a well-established
community that unites wine lovers from all over the world to promote,
educate and share their wine knowledge, region and passion with one
another. Froese’s appointment as the Canadian #WineLover ambassador
marks the 29th country to join this globally recognized network of wine
lovers. In addition to being a longtime wine lover and a WSET Level 2
holder, Froese has been working in the wine industry for nearly 20 years.
She has extensive experience in wine marketing and promotions where she
co-owns Town Hall Brands, a wine-focused marketing and design agency
in Vancouver, British Columbia.
Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service viticulturist, Dr. Ed Hellman of
Lubbock, has earned accolades twice in recent months for his educational
efforts supporting the Texas wine industry. Earlier this year Hellman received
the T.V. Munson Award from the Texas Wine and Grape Growers Associa-
tion at their annual conference in San Marcos. Then in early August he was
again honored with the Outstanding Extension Educator Award from the
American Society for Horticultural Science at their annual meeting in New
Orleans. According to background information, the T.V. Munson Award,
named for a pioneering horticulturist and Texas grape breeder, is given
to an individual who has contributed much to the Texas grape growing
industry. Hellman garnered the honor through his work as an educator,
researcher, author, speaker and leader. He has served on the board of the
Texas Wine and Grape Growers Association, as well as the group’s educa-
tion committee for many years, helping plan their annual conference and
other educational programs. Hellman earned the Outstanding Extension
Educator Award for being a national leader in viticulture extension. His
national activities include 10 years of service on the board of the National
Grape and Wine Initiative. He chaired the group’s Extension and Outreach
Educational Committee for many years, during which he partnered with
colleagues to develop an informal national meeting to facilitate collabora-
tion among Extension viticulturists. WBM
WBM November 2015 91
advertiser index
Thank you to all of our advertisers!

Company web address page Company web address page

Alain Fouquet French Cooperage www.alainfouquet.com 85 Seguin Moreau Napa Cooperage www.seguinmoreaunapa.com 52

Alfa Laval Tank Equipment www.gamajet.com 57 Shur Farms Frost Protection www.shurfarms.com 65
All American Containers
Pacific Coast
www.aacwine.com 85 Spec Trellising www.spectrellising.com 67
American AgCredit, CoBank, Spokane Industries www.spokaneindustries.com 31
Farm Credit West, www.farmcreditalliance.com 59
Northwest Farm Credit Services St. Patrick's of Texas www.stpats.com 47
American Tartaric Products, Inc. www.americantartaric.com 41 StaVin, Inc. www.stavin.com 39
American Vineyard Foundation (AVF) www.avf.org 54 Sunridge Nurseries www.sunridgenurseries.com 63
Amorim Cork America www.amorimca.com 33 SureHarvest, Inc. www.sureharvest.com 67
Ardagh Group www.ardaghgroup.com 83 Tapp Label Co. www.tapplabel.com 74
ARS/Swash Cleaning and Sanitization www.cleanwinery.com 65 Tom Beard Co. www.tombeard.com 46
Bergin Glass Impressions www.berginglass.com 5 TricorBraun WinePak www.tricorbraunwinepak.com 79
Bruni Glass Packaging www.bruniglass.com 81 Trust International Corp. www.barrelmakers.com 30
Bucher Vaslin North America www.bvnorthamerica.com 28 www.extension.ucdavis.edu/
UC Davis Extension 14
winemaking
California Sustainable UC Davis Wine Executive Program www.wineexecutiveprogram.com 89
www.sustainablewinegrowing.org 49
Winegrowing Alliance
Unified Wine & Grape Symposium www.unifiedsymposium.org 13
C-Line Express www.c-linexp.com 65
Vitro Packaging, LLC www.vitropackaging.com 73
Criveller Group www.criveller.com 50
Waterloo Container Co. www.waterloocontainer.com 77
Della Toffola USA, Ltd. www.dellatoffola.us 27
WECO Sorting and Automation www.wecotek.com 25
Diablo Valley Packaging www.dvpackaging.com 75
Western Square Industries, Inc. www.westernsquare.com 51
ETS Laboratories www.etslabs.com 43
WineDoc® - Winery Consulting www.winedoc.com 52
G3 Enterprises www.g3enterprises.com 95
Winejobs.com SUMMIT www.winejobsSUMMIT.com 55
Ganau America, Inc. www.ganauamerica.com 96
WiVi Central Coast www.wivicentralcoast.com 21
Global Package, LLC www.globalpackage.net 72
World Wine Bottles & Packaging www.worldwinebottles.com 37
Granbury Solutions www.granburyrs.com 82

Gusmer Enterprises www.gusmerwine.com 26, 46

Hinman & Carmichael, LLP www.beveragelaw.com 90

Hobart Corp. www.hobartcorp.com 87 STATEMENT OF THE OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT AND CIRCULATION as required
by the Act of Congress on October 23, 1962, Section 4369, Title 39, United States.
Innerstave, LLC www.innerstave.com 53 Code of Wine Business Monthly, published monthly, in Sonoma, CA.
Innovation + Quality www.winebusinessiq.com 16,17 1. The date of this filing is September 30, 2015
La Garde www.lagardeinox.com 7
(a division of SML Stainless Steel Group) 2. The location of the office of the Publisher is 110 W. Napa St., Sonoma, CA 95476

M A Silva USA www.masilva.com 29 3. The name and address of the Publisher is: Eric Jorgensen,
110 W. Napa St., Sonoma, CA 95476
MALA Closures Systems, Inc. www.mala-usa.com 14

Monvera Glass Décor www.monvera.com 9 The name and address of the Editor is: Cyril Penn III,
110 W.Napa St., Sonoma, CA 95476
Moss Adams, LLP www.mossadams.com 15
4. Wine Business Monthly is owned by Wine Communications Group, Inc.
Napa Valley Vintners www.napavintners.com 61 A California Corporation.

Nomacorc www.nomacorc.com 35 5. For the year preceding this filing:

Average number of copies printed per issue. . . . . . . 5,678
O-I (Owens-Illinois) www.o-i.com 11
Paid and/or requested circulation average . . . . . . . . 5,095
Owl Ridge Wines www.owlridge.com 30 Nonrequested distribution average. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 576
Total print distribution average . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5,671
P&L Specialties www.pnlspecialties.com 23 Digital Edition average. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2,113

Pellenc America, Inc.
Portocork
Pure Tin Capsule Committee
Rack & Maintenance Source
www.pellenc.com
www.portocork.com
www.puretincapsules.com
www.rmswinebarrelracks.com
23 6. For the single issue published nearest filing date:
Number of copies printed. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5,623
3
Paid and/or requested circulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5,367
78 Nonrequested distribution. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
Total print distribution. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5,567
45 Digital Edition circulation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2,113

Ranch Winery www.ranchwinery.com 2 Eric Jorgensen, Publisher Wine Business Monthly

Revolution Equipment Sales www.revoquip.com 26

Saverglass, Inc. www.saverglass.com 71

92 November 2015 WBM

jake lorenzo
Fact Versus Theory
EARLIER THIS MONTH, JAKE Lorenzo got invited to UC Davis where
the Catena Institute of Wine hosted a day-long seminar called “The Future
of Wine Science: A Dialogue with Experts from UC Davis and the Catena
Institute of Wine.” It was a stunning day that summarized 20 years of
research carried on by the Catena Wine Institute, including the most exten-
sive Malbec cultivar research ever conducted, comparisons of French and
Argentine Malbec selections, a study of the phylloxera threat to Argentina’s
mostly own-rooted vines and information on high-altitude vineyards and
the effects of UV-B on wine.
Jake Lorenzo was fascinated by the rigorous use of the scientific method in
these studies. I find provable science more reliable and interesting than much
of the subjective, hypothetical theories of many winemakers.
When it comes to making wine, every winemaker has a theory. They might
cold-soak to have more extraction take place in a non-alcoholic environment
in the hopes of developing softer tannins. They might believe native yeast lends
their wines a more complex reflection from a particular
vineyard, or they might use a specific commercial yeast,
hoping that it lends a floral character to their Chardonnay.
Some winemakers are convinced that concrete tanks give
their Rhône varietals a delightful minerality. Others insist Here is what I know: Jake Lorenzo likes drinking
that size matters, and they want their fermentations
carried out in neutral barrels, hogsheads puncheons or and what I like drinking the most is wine.
tuns. While these theories may or may not make sense,
they remain nothing more than theories.
There are other aspects of winemaking that we know
to be true based on scientific research. Phenolics in
wine, which include several hundred chemical compounds, affect the taste,
color and mouthfeel of wine. Fermentation occurs when yeast converts the
sugars in grape juice into ethanol and CO2 gas. Malolactic fermentation is
a secondary fermentation that converts tart malic acid to softer lactic acid.
These are things we know to be facts about making wine.
Jake Lorenzo is a very accomplished private detective, but I am also a
pretty good winemaker. This detective has been making wine for close to
four decades. Like most winemakers, I have theories about how to make great
wine, but I also have scientific knowledge that I know to be true. Here is what
I know: Jake Lorenzo likes drinking and what I like drinking the most is wine.
Jake Lorenzo lives on a very limited budget, one that does not allow me to
purchase the level of wine to which I have grown accustomed.
The only way this detective can afford to drink the quality of wine I need is
to make it myself. Given a choice, I would rather drink Pinot Noir than any
other grape variety. Then again, variety is the spice of life, so I am willing to
dabble in most other grape varieties. Jake Lorenzo has lots of friends, and
those friends like to come to my house to eat and drink. They drink a lot, so I
have to crush at least two tons of grapes a year just to keep up with demand.
These are scientifically proven facts around the Lorenzo household.
I have plenty of winemaking theories as well. My first theory was that all
my friends, who promised they would be willing, able and available to help
make wine during the harvest season, would show up. This proved to be an
invalid theory. It seems like my friends have all sorts of things that make it
impossible for them to come help, things like fishing trips, lunch invitations,
kids or even jobs.
ILLUSTRATION BY BOB JOHNSON
Jake Lorenzo is nothing if not resourceful. Once I
realized help was a precious commodity, one that I
was not likely to enjoy, I had to redesign my winery.
My fermentors quickly turned into 30-gallon, food-
grade trash cans. I built a wooden ramp that enabled
me to drag full fermentors into the winery by myself.
I acquired two dozen 5-gallon carboys to collect the wine from my press,
allowing me to lift them one by one and carry them inside. I got a moveable
ladder so I could place the carboys on top and siphon the wine into barrels
after it had settled, and I shifted to 30-gallon barrels so I could lift them by
myself when they were empty.
Since theories are not scientific fact, this detective changes his often. I went
years using no SO2 at the crusher, with no ill effects, but then I saw wine-
makers around me starting to have problems with lactobacillus, so I changed
my theory. My new theory is, “Better safe than sorry.” I went years having
native yeast power all of my fermentations. It was fine. Sure, there were
some funky aromas before active fermentation kicked in, but the wines were
good. Now I use commercial yeast, just because I felt like doing something
different, and I was intrigued by the Chr. Hansen Melody, which offers two
non-Saccharomyces yeast strains along with the Saccharomyces strain.
Like most winemakers, I felt fermentation temperatures needed to reach
close to 90° F to get full extraction out of red grapes. When you ferment
in 30-gallon trash cans, there is not enough volume to generate that kind
of heat. (I’m not sure, but I think that part is a scientific fact.) After years
of making all kinds of red wines in 30-gallon trash cans that rarely reach
fermentation temperatures above 82° F, this detective thinks that high temp
theory is a bunch of malarkey. My wines have plenty of color, great fruit
character and a rich, full-bodied mid-palate that we really love. My theory is
that these small-volume, lower temperature fermentations help provide that
luscious mid-palate. But that’s just my theory.
I use Viniflora® Oenos for my malolactic fermentation. The theory is that
these commercial bacteria will give a cleaner malolactic fermentation even
in the face of higher alcohols. That’s not why Jake Lorenzo uses it. I use it
because it is easy. It sits in the freezer until you need it. Once you add it, it
almost always finishes and does so quickly. Finishing malolactic, as quickly
as possible, is very important because once ML finishes, I can add SO2. After
the SO2 is added, I can top the barrels and start checking airfares to see where
I am headed for my post-crush vacation. Post-crush vacations are absolutely
necessary if you want to keep your partner content and happy. That is a
scientific fact. WBM
WBM November 2015 93
winemaker of the month

Fletcher Henderson, winemaker, Winery at La Grange, Haymarket, Virginia

“Wine Business Monthly is a wonderful

resource to me because of the broad scope
of informative industry topics covered;
winemaking, winegrape growing, tasting
room and wine clubs, etc. I was glued to
the “Winemaker Roundtable: Additives”
article in the August 2015 edition. The
opinions expressed gave me additional
food for thought on my approach to
additives that I’ll apply during the pending
harvest. But, you have to understand that,
in reality, if you ask three winemakers a “
question you will get four answers.
LARRY FOX

NAME AND TITLE: Fletcher Henderson, winemaker
WINERY NAME AND LOCATION: Winery at La
Grange, Haymarket, Virginia is located on
20 acres at the base of Bull Run Mountain,
45 miles west of Washington, D.C. The tasting
room is in a 1790s brick manor house that was
restored in 2006 and 2007. It is a tranquil
setting to say the least.
ANNUAL CASE PRODUCTION: 7,500 cases
PLANTED ACRES: 7.25 acres estate, approxi-
mately 8 acres leased, and contracted for
approximately 70 tons of out-of-state fruit.
CAREER BACKGROUND: Aside from being the
winemaker at La Grange, I am vice president
of the Atlantic Seaboard Wine Association. In
the past I have been a commercial underwater
diver; commercial fisherman in the Bahamas,
eastern Gulf of Mexico and western Caribbean;
and dock boss for a salmon cannery in Kodiak,
Alaska. I have a construction background as
well. I entered the wine industry around 1995
by volunteering in vineyards and as an assistant
to a winemaker for two years before going
to the distribution and importing side of the
industry. In 2005 I became an investor in the
newly formed Winery at La Grange and was
employed by the investor group to manage the
later, upon the completion of construction
and restoration, I returned to distribution
and importing. In June 2012 I accepted the
opportunity to be the winemaker at La Grange
and have never looked back.
WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR BIGGEST PROFESSIONAL
CHALLENGE? Since accepting the mantel of
winemaker, my biggest challenge has been
learning the unique idiosyncrasies of each
different varietal I work with. In other words,
learning how to listen to what the grapes have
to tell me and accomplish their request.
VARIETALS THAT YOUR WINERY IS KNOWN FOR:

restoration of the 1790s manor house and all Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Cuvee Blanc
other construction necessary. Eighteen months (a white blend with 1.4 percent residual sugar)

94 November 2015 WBM

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 THE PURSUIT OF PERFECTION. EVERY DAY,
AN INCH FORWARD. EVERY TEST. EVERY
PROCESS. EVERY GENERATION. TRADITION
AND TECHNOLOGY. NATURE AND SCIENCE.
EVERYTHING WORKING TOWARD A COMMON
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