TRADITIONAL COSTUMES

OF MALES AND FEMALES

IN ASSAM & ODISHA

TRADITIONAL COSTUME OF ASSAM:-

The traditional dresses of Assam are not only created delicately with rich fabric but also looks
best when anyone wears them.

FOR THE MALES,

DHOTI AND GAMOSA wore by the native men of Assam. The Dhoti is used to cover the lower half
of the body and is a well-known piece of clothing in other Indian traditions too. Wearing a Dhoti
properly is not so easy and carrying it is also one tricky job. The Gamosa is a rectangular piece of
cloth that is an important and significant part of the Assam culture. Gamosa means 'A cloth to
wipe one's body and is a white cloth with a beautiful red border on three sides and woven motifs
on the remaining one. It is a piece of clothing that has some great significance in this state
hence it is also used to felicitate and honour people who achieve some great feat. The Gamosa
can be used as a cloth to wipe or can be transformed into a waistcoat which is commonly known
as the Tongali. It can also be used as a Loincloth by a Bihu dancer.
FOR THE FEMALES,
MEKHELA CHADOR is traditional female attire for women except for children. This two-piece
garment has a long piece of cloth that is draped from the waist downwards and is then folded
into pleats and tucked in. This piece is called the Mekhela. The upper part of the dress is the
Chador that is also a long piece of cloth whose one end is tucked into the Mekhela, and then the
rest is wrapped around the body. This Chador is worn with triangular folds the art of which can
be mastered only by sheer practice. Wearing these traditional dresses is not everyone's cup of
tea and can be a magnanimous task at times. The run for traditional dresses of Assam does not
end here. Assam is a state that houses different tribes who themselves have carried the flame of
their tradition for generations. Each of these tribes has its set of unique cultures, traditions,
lifestyles and clothing. Wandering deep into the state, let us have a look at the artistic dresses of
a few of the major tribes that reside in Assam. The Mekhela chador is not only the attire worn by
this state but the state is the land of various tribes who possess their own dressing styles,
traditions, and culture which is being followed by generations.

TRIBAL WEAR:
THE DIMASA TRIBE,
Male wear Sgaopha or a Phagri that is important for them as a symbol of pride they carry in their
name. The Sgaopha is generally green or yellow colour but is also white with red thread worn by
the grooms. Rigdo is a kind of little muffler they carry and Risha and Gainthao that varies in
length.
Females dresses are very aesthetic. They wear Rigu which is a long piece of fabric that is a
standard material than that of Mekela. Bathormai is similar to Rigu with only a single design on
the entire piece of cloth and is worn during summers. Rijamphain is a white piece of fabric worn
by young women. Their way of dressing is quite subtle but they know to carry it in a graceful
manner.
THE BODO TRIBE,
Males generally wear Gamosa to cover the lower body and the upper body is covered with
normal shirts. Their footwear is unique as it is made of wood and is called 'Khorom.'
Females have a distinguishing dressing format. The women here are seen wearing the Dokhna
which is a dress like cloth that they wrap around their body and runs right from the chest, down
to the ankles. It is crafted in such a way that can be wrapped around the body only once and is
tied around the waist. This Dokhna is made of various bright colours and patterns and Agor. A
Dhokna without an Agor is regarded as a bridal dress and can be termed as a Salamatha. The
people here have mastered the art of using the fibres and producing some fine clothes that
everyone finds elegant.

THE MISSING TRIBE,

Males wear a dhoti called Gonru Ugon. Their upper body is covered with a shirt like fabric called
Mibu Galuk. They also carry Gamosa Dumer which is of utter significance.
Females dressing style is not that fancy. They also wear Mekhela Chador which is black in colour
called 'Yakan Age-Gasa'. Blouses are bright in colour and during the wedding, the attires are
vibrant in colours.
THE RABHA TRIBE,
The tribals of this specific tribe follow their traditions obediently and their dressing style is quite
unique.
The men usually wear white dhoti with long Gamosa.
The women wear a skirt like fabric with exquisite tribal patterns beautifully done called Koum
Kontong. Kambang is worn in the upper body. This dress is also accompanied by a belt or a
Kamarband created with wonderful pearls and shells called Labok, which look elegant on them.

ORNAMENTS
Assam is known for its plains with greenery, varied wildlife, exquisite jewellery styles, bountiful
natural resources and diverse culture. The traditions and attire of Assam along with its
enchanting jewellery styles reflect the presence of many tribes and kingdoms that have shaped
the state’s culture. From wild habitats and ancient temples to the jewellery styles inspired by
nature, Assam has it all. Assam jewellery is crafted with hands by the skilled artisans and
workers of Assam.The traditional jewellery designs contain motifs of flora and fauna as well as
musical instruments such as dhol.
 ● During the Ahom dynasty, Gold-washing along with the Manufacturing of Gold
Ornaments flourished in Assam.
● Even though Gold dust was abundantly found in the sands of different rivers of the state,
the major quantities were taken from the river Subansiri (one of the major tributaries of
the Brahmaputra).
● Traditional Assamese jewellery is made with hands by the Assamese artisans. Inspired by
nature, most of the styles include motifs of birds, animals, musical instruments such as
dhol, drum, pepa, etc.
● Designed and crafted by the artisans, Assam jewellery features exquisite craftsmanship.

Following is type of jewellery manufactured:-

1. Dug-dugi: An ancient piece of Assamese jewellery, Dug-dugi is an ornament for a

woman’s neck. With its name still being a mystery, Dug-dugi is a heart-shaped pendant.

2. Kerumuni: Crafted in the round shape, Kerumuni has a hollow pendant called “Keru”. The
strands of this necklace consist of Pearls or moti. Initially, this type of design was only
 used in earrings but as the trends have evolved, it is now being used in the pendants as

well .
3. Thuriya: These are the traditional Assamese earrings that are adorned by aged women of
Assam. The traditional Thuriya has a very unique shape. It consists of a front side that
looks like a flower, a thin middle portion, and a wider bottom portion. Its design helps

the earrings to stay intact in the ears.

4. Gam-kharu: This is a chunky bracelet/bangle made of silver or gold. Adorned by
Assamese women, Gam-Kharu is one of the most beautiful jewels of Assam. It can be
opened with a golden knot attached to it and therefore, it can fit anyone.

5. Loka-paro: “Paro” means pigeons! In Loka Paro, the pendant is embellished with identical
pigeons, positioned one after the other, and attached to a string containing gold beads.
 The pigeons embossed on the Loka Paro necklace are adorned with a wide variety of
gemstones such as Rubies, Emeralds, Amethyst, Rose Quartz, etc.

6. Jonbiri: In Assamese, Jon means the Moon and Biri is the surrounding designs of Jonbiri.
This is an eye-catching accessory that is adorned by the beautiful women of Assam. Its
design is inspired by musical instruments, nature, and household goods of Assam.
 7. Dholbiri/Motabiri: Inspired by Dhol (a musical instrument), the traditional Dholbiri comes
in dhol shape. It is considered as one of the most popular decorative ornaments for

Assamese women.
8. Gal-pata: Gal means neck and pata is the flat design of Gal-pata. Adorned by the
beautiful women of Assam, Gal-pata is a traditional choker necklace made of Gold. It is

embellished with intricate floral designs.

TRADITIONAL COSTUME OF ODISHA:

FOR MALE,
Males are interested to wear their own traditional outfits. Generally, Dhoti is common traditional
costumes for men in Odisha. They also wear Kurta and Gamucha during the festival and other traditional
celebrations. The head of the family wants to learn to his other family members about the importance of
wearing the traditional costumes. So he strictly follows to wear their religious costumes. In the way, the
generations stay in touch with their tradition and culture. The advent of the internet, fast
communications, and other infrastructure developments are causing the changes in their traditions and
culture. So there the changes in dress designs and a variety of costumes are entering into the lives of
youngsters. But still, the traditional outfits are seated in the heart of native inhabitants.
 ● Shambalpuri Kurta: Shambalpuri Kurta is a short variant of your regular kurta. It is
extremely famous amongst the men of Odisha. A kurta can be bought in many different
colors and designs and it is loved by both youngsters and adults.

FOR FEMALE,
Women wear different types of saris to show their special look. Famous saris include Kataki Sari,
Bomkai Sari and Sambalpuri Sari. These are adorned by females in Orissa during festivals,
marriage, and other special events. Shalwar Kameez is also worn by the girls and women. They
like to beautify themselves with a lot of jewelleries and ornaments. Both in urban and rural
areas, you can find women in beautiful clothing. Though the western culture has influenced a lot
in Orissa that can be seen in the clothing of youngsters, the traditional outfits still live in the
heart of native inhabitants. They ensure that at least in their festivals like Durga Puja, they wear
the cultural outfits.

● Khandua Sari: is another popular dress option that is loved by Odisha women. This dress
has a special place in the hearts of Odisha as it is aesthetically pleasing and as well as
culturally special because the idol of Lord Jagannath is decorated with it.
BRIDAL WEAR

● Saree: The majority of brides in Oriya wear the traditionally draped yellow saree that is
decorated with flaming red borders that have boula Patta side work in it. But, most
modern-day brides usually prefer to adorn sarees such as Benarasi or Kanjeevaram,
another popular pick is the Ikkat a local silk saree.

● Dupatta or Uttariyo: An Uttariyo is another mandatory part of a bride’s dress in Odisha. It

is a long piece of cloth that is used by the bride to cover her head; this cloth is decorated
 with sequins and zari. Along with that, matching headgear is also included in this which

makes her look like a queen.

● Shanka Palaa: Shanka Palaa is an additional accessory that brides in Odisha wear. It is a
pair of red and white bangle that is worn in both hands. Shanka (Red Bangles) are
mandatory in many parts of Odisha while the white ones are added for contrast.

● Tanta Cotton of Baleswar: Tanta cotton kurtis made in Baleswar district of Odisha is
another bridal attire options that many brides in Odisha choose these days.

GROOM WEAR

● Kurta: As we have mentioned above, a Kurta comes in many different styles and designs
and for the wedding, most of the Odisha men choose an elaborate kurta. For the most
part, a symmetrical buttoned-down kurta with a minimal print pattern on sleeves and a
minute amount of patchwork on the lower side is chosen.
● Payjama: The type and design of Pajama mostly depend on the Kurta. For the most part,
a simple white pajama that complements the color of the kurta is chosen by the groom.
● Sherwani: Apart from the traditional Kurta Pajama, Sherwani is what many grooms in
Odisha love to wear during their wedding. Similar to other parts of country, Sherwani is
 Odisha can be considered an embroidered and highly decorated form of Kurta and
Pajama.

ORNAMENTS:

● Tarakasi– Work of silver, the thick and silver strings we’re folded, heated, weaved and
molded into a piece of single exotic jewellery. Bhubaneswar is called the ‘city of the
temple’ because of countless temples in it. The former capital of Odisha “Kataka” which
is recognized as Cuttak and it is famous globally as ‘the silver city’ because of its oldest
Filigree manufacturing industry called ‘Tarakasi’ in Odia. Like Meenakari and Kundan
designs on jewelry, the beauty of the filigree design is rich on the web-like patterns of
silver lace. Filigree is an ancient religious identity of Odisha and it is 500-year-old highly
skilled art form. Filigree is an exquisite kind of craft work where the silver strings are
alter in a shape of jewellery, models and showpieces as well.
● Rupa Banias: The artists who are involved to make this filigree work are called “Rupa
Banias” or “Roupyakaras” (in odia). They are highly mastered in traditional goldsmiths
where some of them have their family business, some are self-employed or some do it as
casual workers. From beginning the filigree work of Cuttack is caste & hereditary based.
Most of the Bania Caste is engaged in this work and few from the fishermen community
are also seen to be doing this job for the purpose of breadwinning. Some of the work is
done through carvings, but filigree is done by bending and joining the thin hair like silver
wires bit by bit. The designs are made on the basis of demand, they are first drafted on a
piece of paper. To make a raw design, the designs is fixed on it as an outline with the
thick silver wires. The hair with the thin silver wires is molded and joined through the
heat of the fire and finish it with the boundary of the design. And lastly it is dipped into
the diluted sodium oxide for the cleaning purpose to give the final touch. The formation
of flowers, birds, animals and even handbags are made through the filigree works. In
Odisha, the most demanding jewelry are necklaces, armlets and anklets. The eye-
catching models of Lord Jagannath, Konark chakra, bicycle and peacock, Taj Mahal and
Eiffel Tower are made up of silver filigree are in great demand.
● Ancient art: In the Mughal times, the filigree work received a great blow up but now it is
suffering due to lack of initiatives, its market facilities and values. The traditional ancient
art is dying. In Cuttack more than a hundred families engaged with the Tarakasi craft.
Odissi dancers wears jewellery like armlets which is made up of silver filigree work.
Tarakasi is considered as very auspicious jewellery, Odia brides are said to be incomplete
without the Tarakasi toe rings and anklets. In Cuttack, the filigree laborer are paid Rs
6000 per month depending upon the profit of workshop. Workshops earns about Rs
30000 per month through this job. People give the orders from the several districts like
Jagatsinghpur and Dhenkanal of Odisha where filigree art is in great demand. They have
to work for day and night on each art piece. This business get them lower income in
relation to the time they spend. As they say, they don’t want to teach their generation
this art form and this has become one of the biggest reason for the slow death of
Tarakasi, the ancient identity of Odisha. Lack of interest among the new generation
because of its labor intensive and time consuming nature, increase in the cost of raw
material, poor returns to the artisans and absence of a strong community based
leadership. It is so important to encourage the aspiring handy people that make this art
and to save the silver legacy of Odisha. Archaeological proofs suggest that filigree was
incorporated into jewellery as early as 3500 BCE in Mesopotamia where it is practical
even today as Telkari work. As history says, there is every possibility that the Tarakasi
 work reached Cuttack from Persia through Indonesia some 500 years ago by sea trade.
Cuttack and Indonesia’s argument based on similar workmanship. In the Mughal Era, the
craft received royal funding and today Cuttack Tarakasi is world renowned for its delicate
artistry and excellent craftsmanship.
● Spider web work: This traditional fine spider web work is the main attraction of
Cuttack Tarakasi. And Rose flower is one of the main elements in its
repertoire of design motifs. One rose takes about three to four hours to make.
Beside Jewellery, creative art works portraying iconic monuments of
Odisha. In recent years a number of contemporary themes, such as chariots,
currency notes, rickshaws, and bicycles and so on are also seen in the
market. Artisans who are mostly goldsmith work with 90℅ silver alloy.
Tarakasi involves a number of steps. A lump of silver is placed on a small
clay pot over a bucket full of charcoal. Hand operated stuffs is used to
regulate the temperature. It takes about 10 minutes to melt the silver lump.
The molten silver is then poured into a rod shaped mud which is further put
in water for cooling. To make a thin silver wires from the rod they use
machines. Then wires are carved into a number of complex designs, which
are first drawn on paper. For the process of soldering, thick silver wires are
used as frames into which thin wires are embedded. There are 90 types of
wire designs of spirals and curls, creepers and jaalis. In the early 20th
century, due to the lack of patronage, tarakasi work of Cuttack had almost
vanished. In 1962, former CM of Odisha Biju patnaik established the
Kalinga Filigree cooperative society to help local tarakasi artisans. And
today there are about 400 artisans in cutback working but the craft is in
danger due to a number of factors, such as competition from Kolkata, which
produces coarse but affordable silver filigree items. Of all the handicrafts of
Odisha, silver filigree is the most unique and finest is locally called
Tarakasi. In this process it consists drawing of silver through a series of
consecutively smaller holes to produce fire strands of wire. Vermillion
boxes, brooches, pendants, earrings and hairpins are in great demand.
Vermillion box is must in any Odia marriage. In cutback, Odisha, Diwali is
popularly celebrated as kali puja, where kali idols were adorned with
elaborate silver frames (medha) famously known as the filigree work or
Tarakasi. Quintals of silver have been used all over the city for kali idols.