Chapter 5

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Textile Research

Associations (TRAs)
Textile Research Associations (TRAs) were set up in India to provide technical consultancy to the textile
industry and carry out research on various aspects of the textile technologies.

TRAs are financially supported by Ministry of Textiles (MoT) to promote research and development to make
Indian textile and allied industries internationally competitive. These associations carry out application-based
scientific studies and foster excellence in technology, engineering and management.

Technical textiles cater to specific individual and industrial requirements; hence these are required to conform
to international and national standards based on the type of product and nature of use. In India, it is the TRAs
that are responsible for setting up testing facilities for technical textiles for ensuring conformance to
standards.

5.1 Methodology
A detailed questionnaire was developed by IIT Delhi and shared with all the TRAs to understand their key
research areas, projects undertaken, collaborations, training, challenges and issues faced, and future
perspective of the TRAs in the context of technical textiles. The following analysis is based on the responses
received from six1TRAs: ATIRA, BTRA, MANTRA, NITRA, SITRA, and WRA.

5.2 Establishment of TRAs


Till date, eight TRAs have been established for testing, research and development activities.

Figure 5.1: Chronological order of establishment of TRAs in India

Source: http://texmin.nic.in/about-us/textile-research-associations

All the associations are well equipped with technology to carry out research for the respective region and
segments. They provide consultancy services, perform testing, conduct trainings and workshops, and publish
research findings from time to time. The details of these facilities are listed in the following table:

1
Of the 8 Textile Research Associations, two could not participate in IIT Delhi’s primary survey
Section 5: Textile Research Associations
___________________________________________________________________________________________________

Table 5.1: TRAs and their specialisations


Textile Research Associations Location Specialisation in
relation to Year of
Technical establishment
Textiles

1. Ahmedabad Textile Industry's Research Ahmedabad Composites &


1947
Association (ATIRA) Buildtech
2. Bombay Textile Research Association (BTRA) Mumbai Geotech &
1954
Oekotech

3. Indian Jute Industries' Research Kolkata Agrotech


1937
Association (IJIRA)
4. Man-Made Textile Research Association Surat Agrotech
1981
(MANTRA)
5. Northern India Textile Research Association Ghaziabad Protech & Mobitech
1974
(NITRA)

6. South India Textile Research Association (SITRA) Coimbatore Meditech 1956

7. Synthetic & Art Silk Mills' Research Association Mumbai Agrotech, Packtech


1950
(SASMIRA)
8. Wool Research Association (WRA) Thane Sportech 1963

5.3 Research
Research & Development forms the backbone of TRAs. From creating policies to research on new
technologies, imparting training and publishing research findings, scientists play a primary role. The data on
existing research scientists and the deficit is shown below:

Table 5.2: Research Scientists in Textile Research Associations


Textile Research Existing number of Research Deficit in Required Research
Association Scientists Scientists
ATIRA 5 9
BTRA 84 0
MANTRA 7 2
NITRA 31 0
SASMIRA 21 0
SITRA 17 6
WRA 6 0

Source: Primary survey by IIT Delhi

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Section 5: Textile Research Associations
___________________________________________________________________________________________________

5.3.1 Funded and Sponsored projects


TRAs have undertaken various funded/sponsored projects related to technical textiles in the last six years
(2015-2020). More than 50 funded projects worth around Rs. 44 Crores have been undertaken.

The proportion and value of funded/sponsored projects across 12 segments are as follows:

Figure 5.2: Funded and sponsored projects (Segment-wise as percentage, 2015-2020)

Source: Primary survey by IIT Delhi

Most of the projects (in value terms) are related to Buildtech followed by Geotech, Hometech and Meditech.
The value of funded/sponsored projects undertaken in last six years under each segment is depicted below:

Figure 5.3: Funded and sponsored projects (Segment-wise in Rs. Crores, 2015-2020)

\
Source: Primary survey by IIT Delhi

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Section 5: Textile Research Associations
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5.3.2 In-house projects


TRAs undertook more than 50 in-house projects in the last six years (2015-2020). The proportion and values
of in-house projects across 12 segments are as follows:
Figure 5.4: In-house projects (Segment-wise as percentage, 2015-2020)

Source: Primary survey by IIT Delhi (Based on information from 6 TRAs)

The proportion of In-house projects in Sportech and Protech is the highest at around 24% and 23%
respectively, followed by Meditech at 18% and Indutech at 13%.

Figure 5.5: In-house projects (Segment-wise in Rs. Crores, 2015-2020)

Source: Primary survey by IIT Delhi

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Section 5: Textile Research Associations
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5.3.3 Duration of projects


The duration of funded and in-house projects varied between one to three years indicating long-duration
projects as well.

Segment-wise average duration of projects is depicted in the Figure below:

Figure 5.6: Average duration of projects (Segment-wise in no of years, 2015-2020)

Source: Primary survey by IIT Delhi

5.4 Knowledge Dissemination


Knowledge dissemination through training programmes, consultancy projects, workshops, national and
international seminars and conferences has been an integral part of TRAs.

 In the last six years (2015-2020), over 250 training programmes and workshops have been conducted.

 Over 780 consultancy projects related to technical textiles have been undertaken by TRAs generating a
revenue of more than Rs. 7 Crores.

 Over 40 international and national conferences, seminars and symposiums have been organised for over
2500 participants.

 Over 250 journal publications, around 100 papers in conferences, 5 book chapters, 35 research reports
and 4 books have been published in the technical textiles domain by various TRAs to expand learning and
foster development of new skills.

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Section 5: Textile Research Associations
___________________________________________________________________________________________________

5.5 Consultancy projects


Consultancy projects have been an integral part of the activities of TRAs. The details of value of top 10
consultancy projects related to technical textiles in last six years are shown below:
Figure 5.7: Top 10 consultancy projects (Rs. Crores)

Source: Primary survey by IIT Delhi (Based on information from six TRAs)

5.6 Training Programmes and Workshops


Over the past six years (2015-2020), in addition to the funded projects, consultancies and assignments, TRAs
have been actively engaged in conducting various training programmes and workshops related to technical
textiles.
Figure 5.8: Number of participants trained (Segment-wise, 2015-2020)

Source: Primary survey by IIT Delhi

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Technical Textiles Industry in India: Opportunities and Challenges - 155 -
Section 5: Textile Research Associations
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5.7 Publications by TRAs


TRAs have been actively engaged in disseminating knowledge in the form of journal articles, conference
papers, books chapters and research reports.
Figure 5.9: Published by TRAs(in numbers, 2015-2020)

Source: Primary survey by IIT Delhi

5.8 Revenue generated by TRAs


TRAs generate their revenue through testing facilities, educational programmes and training programmes.
Around 87% of the total revenue can be attributed to testing facilities and remaining 13% revenue has been
generated from educational programmes and training programmes over the last six years (2015-2020).

Figure 5.10: Revenue generated (Activity-wise as percentage, 2015-2020)

Source: Primary survey


by IIT Delhi

Figure 5.11: Revenue


generated (Activity-
wise in Rs. Crores,
2016-2020)

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Technical Textiles Industry in India: Opportunities and Challenges - 156 -
Section 5: Textile Research Associations
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Source: Primary survey by IIT Delhi

5.9 Patent Information


In order to make India competitive in the global markets, the TRAs are focusing on innovation, research,
various development activities, and development of new products and technologies. There are 35 national
patents which have been applied for over the past six years (2015-2020). Of the 35 patents applied in the
six year period under study, 26 patents have been applied for products and 9 for machinery. There are two
international patents filed for new products.

Figure 5.12: Patents Applied for (2015-2020)

Source: Primary survey by IIT Delhi

5.10 Machines and Equipment


Over the past six years (2015-2020), 85% of total machines and equipment procured by TRAs was procured
from international sources and only 15% were produced domestically.

Figure 5.13: Machines and equipment (2015-2020)

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Section 5: Textile Research Associations
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Source: Primary survey by IIT Delhi

5.11 Emerging products and segments in


technical textiles
Asia Pacific has dominated the technical textiles market owing to new technological advancements, increase in
awareness among user groups, and rise in disposable incomes. Meditech, Indutech, Mobiltech, Geotech,
Oekotech, Buildtech, Protech and Sportech products have emerged as promising segments in these markets.
As per data collected from various TRAs in India, the following is the list of emerging products:

1. Agrotech Segment:

 Natural fibres for weed control, organic tarpaulins

 Products from jute fibres for maximum protection against weed and erosion control

2. Buildtech Segment:

 Glass fibre composites in marine industry

 Composites, especially reinforced composites in construction and industrial sectors

 Carbon fibre-based composites for aerospace, space and defence application

 Carbon fibre-based composites for civil engineering application e.g. bridge repairing

 Honeycomb sandwich panel for various engineering application

 Composites for manufacture of Wind Mill Turbine

3. Oekotech Segment:

 Applications in areas of erosion control

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Section 5: Textile Research Associations
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 Applications in sewage treatment

 Manufacturing and application in effluent treatment during manufacturing Geotech Segment:

 Soft soil and water storage for pond application

 Road and railway track construction

 Seashore erosion control 

 Reinforcement of soil (specially for high strength application)

 Drainage application

4. Indutech Segment:

 Use of textiles in environmental and manufacturing sectors

 Textile with functional properties for high tenacity, better insulation and thermal resistance

5. Meditech Segment:

 Healthcare products

 COVID 19 pandemic related products

 Intelligent textiles with sensors (passive, active and adaptive) for sensing harness, stretch sensitive, safe
distancing and measuring respiration rate, temperature, humidity, pulse, SpO2, pH, etc.

 Biodegradable and/or recyclable medical and hygiene textiles

 Artificial grafts & 3-D printing technology for better healing of injury and as an alternative technology

 Anti-microbial textiles

6. Protech Segment:

 Protective Textile for enhanced security requirement

 Fire and chemical protective clothing

7. Sportech Segment:

 Inflatable balls and protective equipment

 Shock absorbing foam, breathable clothing

8. Mobiltech Segment:

 Seat belts, airbags, carpets, inner fabrics

 Development of optimised textile components for automobiles like filters, roof liners, panels, seat
cushions and covers, etc.

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Section 5: Textile Research Associations
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5.12 Challenges
Figure 5.14: Challenges faced by Indian TRAs

Source: Primary Survey by IIT Delhi

5.12.1 Lack of infrastructure


Non-availability of machinery and specialised equipment for testing and evaluating raw material related to
technical textiles remains a major technology gap in India. Most of the machinery used to manufacture
technical textile products is not available in India. This deficiency results in inefficiencies in manufacturing.
Lack of adequate automated and semi-automated garment-making machines, lack of ability to create sensors
for high-tech textiles and deficiency in digital printing technology are significant technology gaps faced by
Indian technical textiles industry.

5.12.2 Heavy dependence on imports


30% of the total imports in technical textiles comprise specialty fibres which reduces India’s global
competitiveness in high-value technical textile products. This is largely due to the lack of requisite technology
and absence of robust R&D ecosystem in the country.

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Section 5: Textile Research Associations
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5.12.3 Lack of standardisation and related regulations


India lacks adequate testing machinery, standarised benchmarks and regulations in many areas related to
technical textiles. This deficiency results in production of sub-standard technical textile products. In addition to
that, lack of adequate and appropriate testing procedures as well as deficient BIS and AATCC norms for
standardised quality products remain a significant gap in quest for achieving better competitiveness.

5.12.4 Lack of skilled manpower


Lack of skilled manpower is a major challenge faced by the Indian textiles industry. Less than 5% of the
workforce in this industry attends any kind of formal training in comparison to around 65-95% workforce in
other developed and developing nations. In India, shortage of skilled manpower can be seen across segments
at all levels. This includes lack of trained entrepreneurs, workers, and skilled trainers.

5.12.5 Lack of funding in research and development


Funding remains another significant gap for achieving better competitiveness. It hampers research and
development, and impedes entrepreneurship in the manufacturing space.

Possible ways to address the skill and technology gaps include awareness sessions, training, skill
development, improvement in infrastructure, research funds and FDIs. TRAs have shared the following
suggestions to address the gaps faced by Indian technical textile industry in its drive to achieve better
competitiveness:

 In order to attract investments and boost the technical textile sector, the government needs to promote
manufacturing of high-tech machinery. In order to make Indian technical textile industry globally
competitive, development of new technology through R&D, formation of joint-ventures, provision for
import subsidies, impetus to foreign direct investors (FDIs) for promoting capital investment, facilitation
for tie-ups and easy access to funding for start-ups could play crucial roles.

 Through policy initiation, government can counter the problem of heavy imports of raw material as well
as machinery to a great extent. Government needs to promote innovation and infrastructure for
manufacturing high-value specialty fibres. A boost to manufacturing can be given in the form of relaxation
in customs duty on imported raw materials and high-tech machinery. Government should provide funds
and subsidies for promoting local production of some of the raw materials.

 Safety and other related regulations need to be enforced across industries to boost demand for
technical textile products. Indian standards should be aligned with international standards in order to
promote benchmarking against global standards.

 Textile education curriculum needs to be modified, soft skills should be improved and industrial experts
should impart training to students in order to bridge the academic-industry gap.

 India is currently witnessing a boom in start-ups with fresh graduates opting for entrepreneurship.
Government needs to work with various entrepreneurship development institutes for offering courses on
entrepreneurship in technical textiles.

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Technical Textiles Industry in India: Opportunities and Challenges - 161 -
Section 5: Textile Research Associations
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 Since technical textiles is one of the emerging areas in the country and worldwide, existing curriculum of
colleges offering degrees in textiles should have technical textiles as one of the compulsory
subjects. Moreover, short-term courses for new as well as existing workforce should be planned with
participation from existing technical textile manufacturers.

 Government should make funding available for entrepreneurs for establishment of start-ups and
research and development (R&D). This will help in improving infrastructure and promoting better training
facilities in the technical textiles sector.

 Many TRAs suggested collaboration with international educational institutions and Centres of
excellence (CoEs) for R&D and new product development by the industry.

 TRAs lack information about availability of funds, investment mechanisms and government
schemes for startups. To resolve this challenge, government should be more proactive in sharing
available information with TRAs and textile committees who conduct routine training programmes for
entrepreneurs.

 TRAs also suggested that the testing and incubation facility should be upgraded to provide the
institutes with state-of-the-art equipment to provide the services to customers at affordable prices and
meet both domestic and international needs.

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Section 5: Textile Research Associations
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Figure 5.15: Current needs of the Indian textile sector

Source: Primary Survey conducted by IIT Delhi

5.12.6 Lack of availability of machinery:


At present, most machinery used to manufacture technical textile products is not available in India. In order to
boost the technical textiles industry and attract investment, the government needs to promote domestic
manufacturing of high-tech machinery.

5.12.7 Poor level of awareness about technical textile products


among end users in India:
Most end users of technical textile products are still unaware of the usage and benefits of technical textile
products leading to lack of adoption. Training of entrepreneurs and workers is the need of the hour and will
help spread awareness.

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Section 5: Textile Research Associations
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5.12.8 Lack of standardisation and regulations:


A lot of technical textile products do not have standard benchmarks resulting in sub-standard, low quality, and
internationally sub-par products. Safety and other related regulations need to be enforced across industry in
order to propel demand for technical textile products.

5.12.9 Low levels of domestic manufacturing of specialty fibres:


Currently, most specialty fibres are imported in India. Government needs to promote innovation and invest in
infrastructure for manufacturing high-value specialty fibres.

5.12.10 Low levels of innovation and R&D:


The current needs of technical textile industry are – innovative product development based on regional
context, design and development of raw material to enhance the durability and performance of geotextile
products, reusable and recyclable medical and hygiene textiles. Key Indian players in the industry need to
invest in innovation and develop high value products to position India as a global hub for technical textiles.

The Technical Research Associations would like to contribute to product development, manpower training,
research and development and setting up of standards in order to meet the current needs of technical textile
sector with their available manpower and infrastructure.

 WRA would like to increase awareness about technical textile products through trainings, seminars and
conferences, R&D, developing innovative technical textile products and their techno-commercial viability
studies

 NITRA would like to put in quality evaluation and testing, training of testing personnel and product
development with sponsorship from industry and government agencies.

 BTRA would like to contribute in product development, training manpower, consultancy and testing of raw
material and finished products.

 MANTRA also would like to be more engaged with research and development and training programmes.

 SITRA would like to play a role in setting of standards, manpower training and product development,
standardisation of quality parameters for medical textiles, incorporation of nano-particles, explore
reusability and recyclability in specialised medical and hygiene textiles and for high-tech fabrics.

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Section 5: Textile Research Associations
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5.13 Policy interventions required to improve


the performance of the technical textile sector
Figure 5.16: Policy recommendations

Source: Primary Survey conducted by IIT Delhi

 Regulatory reforms supporting the usage of standardised technical textile products such as car seatbelt,
airbag for cars, flame resistant fabrics for public places, are essential. Such regulations will ensure better
quality of life of the citizens and expand the technical textiles market.

 Documentation processes for start-ups must be simplified.

 Environment protection and safety rules for end users should be mandatory.

 Government should provide enough funds for field trials of geotextile products and for research and
development in order to facilitate innovation.

 Reduced tariff for import of specialty fibre is suggested. Exemption of taxes and duties are considered
necessary for machinery and raw material used in non-woven industry for at least a short period.

 To be internationally competitive, infrastructure subsidies to modernise R&D labs and testing labs are needed.

 Regulation should be brought in place to control and stabilise the price of raw material in implantable and
extracorporeal textile materials.

 Awareness among the business community and end-users on technical textiles must be increased by
creating technical textile parks, textile zones, and trade fairs.

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Section 5: Textile Research Associations
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 Since the domestic and global needs of individuals and businesses are rapidly changing, the government
should come up with a revised National Textile Policy (NTP). It is time to acknowledge the potential of a
fourth industrial revolution to improve current practices in the technical textile industry. The revised NTP
should have an elaborate strategy on how to build the technical textile industry focusing on
industrialisation measures to deal with sustainability, research, and development effort to produce
specialty fibres within India.

 Adoption of a PPP model by the government should be implemented in order to build trust amongst
investors and encourage the technical textile industry towards a common goal of making India a global
player.
Figure 5.17: Suggestions to boost the overall performance of technical textile industry

Source: Primary Survey by IIT Delhi

 Government should focus on attracting FDI.

 Subsidies and incentives should be offered to set up export-oriented technical textile manufacturing
clusters.

 There should be reduction in tariff or exemption on customs duty for machinery and raw material used for
medical textile products.

 Export incentive of at least 10% on all the medical textiles would help grow the industry.

 Export Promotion Council (EPC) for technical textiles must be set up which will help in facilitation of the
export process, licensing and regulatory requirements.

 Government should also provide subsidies for modernization. This will give technical textile manufacturers
a competitive advantage over other countries and improve their market share.

 Participation in international trade fairs will raise awareness about Indian nonwoven industry and help
attract overseas customers.

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