the Three Headed Dragon

Brutus-Brian-Boris

© IlDikko

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are intended for personal use only. All rights reserved. It is prohibited to
distribute instructions on paper or electronically (you may not sell or
share the patterns, do not post them on the Internet, or translate them
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You may sell any item made personally by you (100% handmade)
according to our pattern. Every person who uses our patterns to make
items for sale must have their own copy of the pattern. Items for sale
must state in the item description that they are designed by IlDikko
and also include a link to my website (www.ildikko-crochet.com).

If you have any question about this pattern, please feel free to contact
me! 

Thanks and enjoy!

E-Mail: ildiko.struening@gmail.com

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Materials
 Yarn/wool: I have used Catania yarn from Schachenmayr in green (0205 – 3 x
50g), dark green (0212 – 1 x 50g), light green (0245 – 1 x 50g) and white (1 x
50g) color.
 Crochet hook: 3.0 mm
 Approx. 300 cm of single core copper PVC-coated electrical wire (diameter: 3 mm)
 Rubber tape (electrician’s tape) 1,5 cm wide to secure wire ends
 Tapestry needle
 Filling
 Scissors
 Pliers for cutting wire
 Six 10 mm black safety eyes
 Small pebble (diagonal: 5-6 cm) to make the dragon’s bottom heavier

Abbreviations
St(s) - stitch(es)
Ch - chain
Sc - single crochet
Hdc - half double crochet
Dc - double crochet
Tr - treble (triple) crochet
Dtr - double treble (triple) crochet
Slst - slip stitch
Inc - increase (2 sc in next st)
Dec - decrease (2 sc worked off together)
(nr) - indicates the total number of stitches in the current row/round
FO - fasten off

Important Notes
 All rounds are worked in a continuous spiral (except the dragon’s eyebrows,
nostrils, spikes and wings). Do not join or turn, unless instructed otherwise
 You may find it useful to use a stitchmarker for counting your rounds
 Take your time to create your amigurumi’s face, it is a very important part of the
final result
 While stuffing and making the wire frame take care to give each part a nice shape
 Using invisible decrease instead of decrease makes the final result nicer

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Size of finished figure
Using the above metioned yarn and hook Brutus-Brian-Boris will be 30 cm by 40 cm.

Realization
Mouth

With green yarn:

Round 1. 6 sc in double adjustable ring (6)

Round 2. inc* (12)
Round 3. (sc, inc)* (18)
Round 4. (2 sc, inc)* (24)
Round 5. – Round 8. sc* (24)
Round 9. (2 sc, dec)* (18)

FO.

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Head (Brian - Happy)

With green yarn:

Round 1. ch 6 (6)
Round 2. sc in second ch from hook, 3 sc, 3 sc in last ch. Continue on the
other side of beginning ch: 3 sc, 2 sc into the last ch (you made
the first sc into this ch) (12)
Round 3. inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18)
Round 4. (sc, inc), 3 sc, (sc, inc) 3-times, 3 sc, (sc, inc) 2-times (24)
Round 5. (2 sc, inc), 3 sc, (2 sc, inc) 3-times, 3 sc, (2 sc, inc) 2-times (30)
Round 6. (3 sc, inc), 3 sc, (3 sc, inc) 3-times, 3 sc, (3 sc, inc) 2-times (36)
Round 7. – Round 12. sc* (36)
Round 13. (3 sc, dec), 3 sc, (3 sc, dec) 3-times, 3 sc, (3 sc, dec) 2-times (30)
Round 14. – Round 15. sc* (30)

In next round mouth and head will be crocheted together. Please keep the mouth at hand
and fold it in half.

Round 16. sc, take the mouth, insert hook through mouth and head stitches, as you see
on the pictures above: 9 sc, work again into the head stitches 20 sc (30)
Round 17. sc, insert hook through the remaining stitches of the mouth, see pictures
below:(sc, dec, 4 sc, dec), work again into the head stitches: sc, (2 sc, dec) 2-times, 3 sc,
(2 sc, dec) 2-times (24)

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Round 18. – Round 19. sc* (24)
Round 20. (3 sc, inc)* (30)
Round 21. (4 sc, inc)* (36)
Round 22. (5 sc, inc)* (42)
Round 23. (6 sc, inc)* (48)
Round 24. – Round 28. sc* (48)
Round 29. (7 sc, dec) 2-times, 21 sc, (7 sc, dec) (45)
Round 30. (6 sc, dec) 2-times, 21 sc, (6 sc, dec) (42)
Round 31. 7 sc, ch 2, skip 1, 34 sc (43)
The hole you just created will be used for the stabilizing wire (skeleton).

Round 32. 7 sc, sc into the 2 ch loop from previous round, 34 sc (42)
Round 33. (5 sc, dec)* (36)

Start to create the wire frame at this point. In my case the wire for head, body and feet/tail
(each head will have its own frame leading either into a foot or the tail) was approximately
95 cm long. Keep in mind the size of the hook and the gauge of the yarn you are using.
You may want to leave the wire rather a bit longer. Adjust it to the final length, when the
body’s size is evident.

Make a loop at one end of the wire. Secure it with the rubber tape. Insert the wire into the
head as you see on the picture. Start stuffing the head (stuff nicely around the wire) and
keep on stuffing while crocheting.

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Round 34. (4 sc, dec)* (30)
Round 35. (3 sc, dec)* (24)
Round 36. (2 sc, dec)* (18)
Round 37. (sc, dec)* (12)
Round 38. dec* (6)

FO. Close the hole by leading the thread through the front loops of last round, pull it tight
and weave the yarn tail into the head.

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Eyes

Eyeballs with white yarn (make 2):

Round 1. ch 4 (4)
Round 2. sc in second ch from hook, sc, 3 sc in last ch. Continue on the other side
of beginning ch: sc, 2 sc into the last ch (you made the first sc into this ch) (8)
Round 3. inc, sc, 3 inc, sc, 2 inc (14)
Round 4. (sc, inc), sc, (sc, inc) 3-times, sc, (sc, inc) 2-times (20)
Round 5. sc* (20)

FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the head.

Eyelids with green yarn (make 2):

Eyelids are crocheted in rows.

Row 1. ch10 (10)

Row 2. Starting at second ch from hook 9 sc, turn (9)
Row 3. dec, 5 sc, dec, turn (7)
Row 4.3 dec, slst, DO NOT TURN!

slst around. FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the head.

Insert the black safety eyes into the eyeball (see pictures above). With invisible stitches sew
the eyes to the head. For the exact place see the pictures below. Stuff the eyes softly with a
small amount of filling while sewing. Sew the eyelids onto the eyeballs.

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Small Horns on the Nose

Bigger one with dark green yarn:

Round 1. 3 sc in double adjustable ring (3)

Round 2. inc* (6)
Round 3. sc* (6)

FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the head.

Smaller one with dark green yarn:

Round 1. 3 sc in double adjustable ring (3)

Round 2. inc, 2 sc (4)

FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the head.

With invisible stitches sew them to the head. For the exact place see the pictures below.

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Nostrils

With green yarn (make 2):

Row 1. ch7 (7)

Row 2. Starting at second ch from hook 6 sc, turn (6)
Row 3. 3 dec DO NOT TURN! (3)

slst around. FO. Leave a long yarn tail and with invisible stitches sew it to the head. For
exact place and position see pictures above.

Teeth

With white yarn (make 2):

Round 1. 3 sc in double adjustable ring (3)

FO. Leave a long yarn tail and with invisible stitches sew it to the head. For exact place
and position see pictures below.

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Ears

With green yarn (make 2):

Round 1. 3 sc in double adjustable ring (3)

Round 2. inc* (6)
Round 3. (sc, inc)* (9)
Round 4. (2 sc, inc)* (12)
Round 5. (3 sc, inc)* (15)
Round 6. (4 sc, inc)* (18)
Round 7. (5 sc, inc)* (21)
Round 8. – Round 10. sc* (21)
Round 11. (5 sc, dec)* (18)
Round 12. (4 sc, dec)* (15)

FO; leave a long yarn tail. Flatten the ears. With invisible stitches sew them to the head.
See the pictures for the exact place.

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Spikes on the Head

Bigger one with dark green yarn:

Round 1. 3 sc in double adjustable ring (3)

Round 2. inc* (6)
Round 3. (sc, inc)* (9)
Round 4. (2 sc, inc)* (12)
Round 5. (3 sc, inc)* (15)
Round 6. (4 sc, inc)* (18)
Round 7. (5 sc, inc)* (21)

FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the head.

Medium one with dark green yarn:

Round 1. 3 sc in double adjustable ring (3)

Round 2. inc* (6)
Round 3. (sc, inc)* (9)
Round 4. (2 sc, inc)* (12)
Round 5. (3 sc, inc)* (15)

FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the head.

Small one with dark green yarn:

Round 1. 3 sc in double adjustable ring (3)

Round 2. inc* (6)
Round 3. (sc, inc)* (9)
Round 4. (2 sc, inc)* (12)

FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the head.

Flatten the spikes. With invisible stitches sew them to the head. For the exact place please
see the pictures below. The third spike does not need to be sewn now, but after crocheting
and attaching the neck.

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With dark green yarn embroider eyelashes.

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Brutus - Angry Head
The second head is crocheted exactly the same way as the first one only the assembly will
be a bit different. Please see the pictures below regarding the exact steps.

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Boris - Dopey Head
The third head is crocheted exactly the same way as the first one only the assembly will be
a bit different. Please see the pictures below regarding the exact steps.

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Tummy

With light green:

Round 1. ch 6 (6)
Round 2. sc in second ch from hook, 3 sc (=sc in each of the next 3 ch), 3 sc in
last ch. Continue on the other side of beginning ch: 3 sc (=sc in each of
the next 3 ch), 2 sc into the last ch (you made the first sc into this ch) (12)
Round 3. inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18)
Round 4. (sc, inc), 3 sc, (sc, inc) 3-times, 3 sc, (sc, inc) 2-times (24)
Round 5. (2 sc, inc), 3 sc, (2 sc, inc) 3-times, 3 sc, (2 sc, inc) 2-times (30)
Round 6. (3 sc, inc), 3 sc, (3 sc, inc) 3-times, 3 sc, (3 sc, inc) 2-times (36)
Round 7. (4 sc, inc), 3 sc, (4 sc, inc) 3-times, 3 sc, (4 sc, inc) 2-times (42)
Round 8. sc* (42)

FO.

Necks and Body

Neck with green yarn (make 3):

Round 1. 12 sc in double adjustable ring (do not pull it tight and leave a long
tail for sewing it to the head) (12)
Round 2. sc* (12)
Round 3. (sc, dec)* (8)
Round 4. – Round 36. sc* (8)
Round 37. (sc, inc)* (12)
Round 38. sc* (12)
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Crochet the 3 necks to each other with 3 sc and go on crocheting the body:

Round 39. 24 sc around (24)

Round 40. (3 sc, inc)* (30)
Round 41. sc* (30)
Round 42. (4 sc, inc)* (36)
Round 43. (5 sc, inc)* (42)

In next round tummy and body will be crocheted together. Thus, please keep the tummy
you made before at hand. The starting point will be the finishing stitch of the tummy (see
pictures below).

Round 44. 13 sc, take the tummy, insert hook through tummy and body stitches, as
you see on the pictures above: 7 sc, work again into the body stitches 22 sc (42)
Round 45. 13 sc, insert hook through the remaining stitches of the tummy, see pictures
below:3 sc, (5 sc, inc) 4-times, 8 sc, work again into the body stitches: 22 sc (74)

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Round 46. 12 sc, dec, 2 sc, (6 sc, inc) 4-times, 7 sc, dec, 21 sc (76)
Round 47. 11 sc, dec, 2 sc, (7 sc, inc) 4-times, 6 sc, dec, 21 sc (78)
Round 48. 10 sc, dec, 43 sc, dec, 21 sc (76)
Round 49. 9 sc, dec, 42 sc, dec, 21 sc (74)
Round 50. 8 sc, dec, 41 sc, dec, 21 sc (72)
Round 51. – Round 52. sc* (72)
Round 53. 7 sc, dec, (12 sc, dec) 3-times, 17 sc, inc, 3 sc (69)
Round 54. 6 sc, dec, (11 sc, dec) 3-times, 18 sc, inc, 3 sc (66)
Round 55. 5 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, ch 2, skip 1, 9 sc, dec, 4 sc, ch 2, skip 1, 5 sc, dec,
19 sc, inc, 3 sc (65)

The wire for the legs will later go through the holes just created.

Round 56. 17 sc, sc into the ch2 loop, 14 sc, sc into the ch2 loop, 30 sc (63)
Round 57. sc* (63)
Round 58. 6 sc, (9 sc, dec) 3-times, 24 sc (60)
Round 59. 4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) 5-times, 4 sc (54)
Round 60. sc* (54)
Round 61. 3 sc, dec, (7 sc, dec) 5-times, 4 sc (48)
Round 62. sc* (48)
Round 63. 2 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) 5-times, 4 sc (42)
Round 64. 3 sc, (5 sc, dec) 3-times, 18 sc (39)

In the next step the main body skeleton will be created:

First take the middle head, lead the wire into the middle neck and form of the main
skeleton wire (see pictures above – the wire needs to be inside the body). Make a big loop
that fits into the body. The end of this wire will create the tail’s frame. Secure the loop with
rubber tape.

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Lead the wire of the left head into the left neck. Follow the form of the main body loop with
it, but this time it needs to go through the hole created on the body for the left leg. For exact
form and position see pictures below (it needs to be inside the body, of course). Secure it
with rubber tape to the main body loop.

The right head’s wire needs to be formed the same way on the right side.

Place the body main loop inside the body and lead the leg’s wires through the appropriate
holes. Insert a pebble into the dragon’s bottom in order to stabilize the ready figure. Stuff
the body carefully around the wire and pebble. Take care to give it a nice shape. Keep on
stuffing as you go on.

Round 65. sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) 3-times, (5 sc, dec) 2-times, 4 sc (33)
Round 66. 2 sc, (3 sc, dec) 3-times, 16 sc (30)
Round 67. – Round 68. sc* (30)
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Round 69. (8 sc, dec)* (27)
Round 70. – Round 71. sc* (27)
Round 72. (7 sc, dec)* (24)
Round 73. – Round 74. sc* (24)
Round 75. (6 sc, dec)* (21)
Round 76. – Round 77. sc* (21)
Round 78. (5 sc, dec)* (18)
Round 79. – Round 80. sc* (18)
Round 81. (4 sc, dec)* (15)
Round 82. – Round 83. sc* (15)
Round 84. (3 sc, dec)* (12)
Round 85. – Round 89. sc* (12)
Round 90. (2 sc, dec)* (9)

Adjust the length of the tail skeleton wire (see pictures above). Bend the end back and
secure it with rubber tape.

Round 91. – Round 107. sc* (9)

Round 108. (sc, dec)* (6)

FO. Close the hole by leading the thread through the front loops of last round, pull it tight
and weave the yarn tail into the tail.

With invisible stitches sew the necks to the heads.

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Feet and legs

Legs with green yarn (make 2):

Round 1. 8 sc in double adjustable ring (do not pull it tight and leave a long
tail for sewing it to the body) (8)
Round 2. – Round 8. sc* (8)
Round 9. 4 inc, 4 sc (12)
Round 10. – Round 11. sc* (12)
Round 12. 4 dec, 4 sc (8)
Round 13. – Round 18. sc* (8)
Round 19. (sc, inc)* (12)
Round 20. (2 sc, inc)* (16)
Round 21. (3 sc, inc)* (20)

FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the feet. Stuff the knee softly (use a long
stick). Insert the leg’s wire into the leg.

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Feet with green yarn (make 2):

First make toes (make 3):

Round 1. 3 sc in double adjustable ring (3)

Round 2. sc* (3)
Round 3. inc* (6)
Round 4. (sc, inc)* (9)
Round 5. – Round 8. sc* (9)
Round 9. dec, 7 sc (8)
Round 10. – Round 13. sc* (8)

Crochet the 3 toes to each other with 1 sc (see pictures above) and go on:

Round 14. 20 sc around (20)

Round 15. sc* (20)
Round 16. 2 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 6 sc (18)
Round 17. sc* (18)

Form the feet’s wire core at this point. For the exact size compare with the toes as you see on
the pictures. It should fit nicely. Cut the wire to the proper size and secure the end with
rubber tape. Put the toes onto the wire frame.

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Round 18. 7 sc, ch 2 (this opening has to surround the leg’s wire, see picture below),
skip 1 stitch, 10 sc (19)

Round 19. sc* (18)

Round 20. (sc, dec)* (12)

Stuff it.

Round 21. dec* (6)

FO; close the hole by leading the thread through the front loops of last round, pull it tight
and weave the yarn tail into the foot.

With invisible stitches sew the leg to the foot and body using the yarn tails left on the leg.

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Hands

With green (make 2):

Make the 3 fingers for a hand as follows:

Round 1. 4 sc in double adjustable ring (4)

Round 2. - Round 4. sc* (4)

Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends on the first two fingers. Do not fasten off on the
third finger. Now continue working on the one not fastened off.

Round 5. 4 sc in next 4 st of the first finger, 2 sc in next 2 st of the second finger,

4 sc in all 4 st of the third finger, 2 sc in next 2 st of the second finger(12)
Round 6. sc* (12)
Round 7. (2 sc, dec)* (9)
Round 8. 7 sc, dec (8)
Round 9. - Round 11. sc* (8)
Round 12. 6 sc, dec (7)
Round 13. - Round 14. sc* (7)
Round 15. 2 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc (9)
Round 16. sc* (9)
Round 17. 2 sc, 2 dec, 3 sc (7)
Round 18. sc* (7)
Round 19. 5 sc, dec (6)
Round 20. - Round 22. sc* (6)

FO. Leave a long yarn tail and sew it to the body (see pictures).

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Spikes

Spikes are crocheted in rows.

Shorter one with dark green yarn (make 2):

Row 1. ch 42 (42)
Row 2. slst*, turn (42)
Row 3. ch2, skip 1, dc [a big hole is created], (ch3, 3 dc into the hole created before,
skip 3, dc [a big hole is created])*

FO. Leave a long yarn tail and sew it to the neck and back (exact position see on pictures
below).

Longer one with dark green yarn:

Row 1. ch 102 (102)

Row 2. slst*, turn (102)
Row 3. ch2, skip 1, hdc [a hole is created], (ch2, 2 hdc into the hole created before,
skip 2, hdc [a hole is created]) 5-times, (ch3, 3 dc into the hole created before,
skip 3, dc [a big hole is created])*

FO. Leave a long yarn tail and sew it to the neck and back (exact position see on pictures
below).

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Wings

Wings are crocheted in rows.

Main part with dark green (make 2):

Row 1. ch 20 (20)
Row 2. Start from the 2nd stitch: 18 sc, 3 sc in last stitch, 18 sc, ch, turn (39)
Row 3. 10 sc, dec, 6 sc, 3 inc, 6 sc, dec, 10 sc, ch, turn (40)
Row 4.9 sc, dec, 6 sc, (sc,inc) 3-times, 6 sc, dec, 9 sc, ch, turn (41)

Fold it in half. All stitches of the last row will be made through both the upper and lower
stitches of the wing (see pictures below).

Row 5. . 20 sc (20)

FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the body.

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Right wing with light green yarn:

Row 1. ch 12 (12)
Row 2. dtr into the 6 stitch from hook, (2 tr both into next stitch), tr into next stitch,
th

(tr and dc both into next stitch), dc, hdc, sc, ch, turn (9)
Row 3. 10 sc in back loops, ch, turn (10)
Row 4.In this row work into the front loops of next to last row.: 4 slst (they do not
count to the stitch number of the row), ch5, dtr into the same stitch where the
ch5 chain was starting from, (2 tr both into next stitch), tr into next stitch,
(tr and dc both into next stitch), dc, hdc, sc, ch, turn (9)

Repeat Row 3 and Row 4 two more times.

FO. Leave a long yarn tail and sew it to the main part of the wing as you see on the picture
below.

With invisible stitches sew the right wing to the body.

Left wing with light green yarn:

Row 1. ch 8 (8)
Row 2. sc into the 2nd chain from hook, hdc, dc, (dc and tr into the next stitch), tr,
2 tr into next stitch, 2 dtr into last stitch, ch, turn (10)
Row 3. 10 sc in back loops, ch, turn (10)
Row 4.In this row work into the front loops of next to last row.: sc, hdc, dc, (dc and
tr both into next stitch), tr, (2 tr both into the next stitch), (2 dtr both into
next stitch) (10)

Repeat Row 3 and Row 4 two more times.

FO. Leave a long yarn tail and sew it to the main part of the wing.

With invisible stitches sew the right wing to the body.

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CONGRATULATIONS! Brutus-Brian-Boris the three headed Dragon is ready !!!

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