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<br />
<p style="font-size: 20px;" align="center"><br /> <strong>Typical Scenario for Hide
Tanning</strong></p>
<hr />
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">These steps can be used for any of the
tanning chemicals that Van Dyke's sells, with the exception of <a
href="http://www.vandykestaxidermy.com/KWT100-P3834.aspx">Krowtann 2000</a> or
Automatic Tanner methods.</p>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Tanning is not all that difficult to
master. It is possible to deviate somewhat from the following, such as time frames,
etc. but this may cause results to vary. Do Not omit any steps. This will work on
nearly any type of hair on hide from muskrats, to moose. These procedures are the
same for tanning a cape to be mounted or a hide that you want to be soft to be used
as a rug. (For hair off, a lot of the procedures are the same with the exception
that a dehairing step must be performed after the initial fleshing.)<br />
<strong>These guidelines are not meant to replace any particular product
instructions, but are intended to be used in conjunction with those instructions.
The main purpose of this is to clarify some of the finer points needed to produce
an acceptably tanned product.</strong></p>
<ol>
<li><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Fleshing</span></strong>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Thoroughly flesh the hide, removing all
meat, fat, membrane, etc. Turn the lips, eyes, ears, and nostrils. Do not wash the
hide or get it wet at this time. Blood can be absorbed with a towel, but keep the
hide dry.</p>
</li>
<li><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Salting</span></strong>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Salting is one of the most important steps
in tanning. Salting is what sets the hair and keeps the hide from decaying.</p>
<ol type="a">
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Lay the hide out flat, flesh side up.
Apply a heavy application of non-iodized salt. (This type of salt is commonly known
as canning, pickling, or mixing salt.) <strong>DO NOT USE ROCK SALT.</strong></p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Rub the salt into the hide. Do not just
pour it on. Make sure to cover the seam area and also around the ears.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">If the cape has been tube skinned, turn it
over and salt the other side of the cape. Apply a layer of salt to all areas of the
flesh side of the hide.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Applying salt on the hair side is not
necessary.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">After salting, roll the hide up and place
on an incline to allow fluids to drain away from the hide.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Wait approximately 12 hours.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Unroll the hide and shake all of the wet
salt off.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Apply a new layer of fresh salt to the
skin as explained above.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Wait another 12 hours. If after these 12
hours, the skin still appears excessively wet, repeat the salting procedure
again.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">If after the 2nd 12 hours, the skin
appears to be drying, with no more fluid draining from it, it can be hung up across
a rack or a 2 x 4 to finish drying.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left"><strong>DO NOT HANG FROM THE NOSE, EARS,
OR EYES. </strong>It is best to just drape the skin to allow it to finish
drying.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Allow to hang and dry for 24 hours.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">By this time, if the above steps were
followed and completed carefully, the skin should be in a stable state. A stable
state is when the skin can be safely left as it is for a period of time, even
months, without fear of hair slippage or spoilage.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left"><strong>One word of caution: </strong>If
the hide is allowed to completely dry, it may be necessary to use a relaxer, (such
as <a href="http://www.vandykestaxidermy.com/MKRDQ-P200.aspx">McKenzie
Relaxer/Degreaser</a>) to relax the hide before pickling.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left"> </p>
</li>
<li><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Pickling</span> </strong>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">The next step will be pickling. There are
various chemicals that will work for this. Some are more hazardous than others.
Follow the instructions on the one that you decide to use. All pickle agents are
acidic in nature, therefore, use of a heavy rubber glove is recommended when using
these chemicals.</p>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Always use a plastic or rubber container
with a lid. <strong>NEVER </strong>use any type of metal container. Good
recommendations are a plastic trash can, or a Rubbermaid tub.</p>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Due to various factors such as the pH of
the water in your area, it is virtually impossible to have one recipe that will
work in all locations of the country. Use the instructions on your pickle only as a
guideline, making sure to always check the pH, which should be between 1 and 2 on
the pH scale. Sometimes it helps to use hot water to dissolve the pickle salt,
<strong>but make sure you allow it to cool completely before adding the
hide.</strong></p>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Make sure you mix enough solution to allow
the hide to be completely submerged.</p>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Assuming the hide has only been salted for
a few days, you can now add it to the pickle bath. (If the hide has been completely
dried hard after having been salted for a length of time, it should be relaxed
first. See step 2 above letter “N”. Follow all of the instructions on
the relaxer that you choose.)</p>
<ol be left in the pickle for several more days, or even longer, as long as a pH of
2 or lower is maintained.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">To maintain the pH, more crystals or acid
can be added, but <strong>REMOVE THE HIDE FIRST! </strong>Test the pH before
returning the hide to the solution.</p>
</li>
</ol><br /> </li>
<li><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Neutralizing</strong></span>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">This is another important step. The ideal
pH of a hide for the tan to work well is between 4 and 5. This can be accomplished
in one of two ways.</p>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">The hide can be removed from the pickle
and then <a href="http://www.vandykestaxidermy.com/SBC5-P3886.aspx">sodium
bicarbonate</a> can be added to the pickle to raise the pH to the proper level. The
hide can then be returned to the solution and allowed to soak for 20 to 30 minutes.
Stir a couple of times during this final soak.</p>
<ol type="a">
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">The second method can be used if you are
planning to reuse the pickle. (Reusing the pickle is done if you have a bigger
batch, with multiple hides being done at one time. This is perfectly acceptable as
long as the pickle can maintain a pH of 1 to 2. You will need to add more acid as
necessary.) You can neutralize in separate container using cold water and sodium
bicarbonate to adjust the bath to have a pH of 4 to 5. (If the pH happens to rise
above this level, simply add acid, or pickling crystals, to lower it to the right
range.)</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">With either of the above methods, allow
the hide to soak for 20-30 minutes, stirring occasionally.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">After removing the hide from the
neutralizing bath, allow it to drain.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">For greasy hides, go on to Step 5.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">If the hide appears somewhat dirty now,
you can use any of the washing agents sold by Van Dykes, such as <a
href="http://www.vandykestaxidermy.com/VCNQ-P3950.aspx">Van Clean.</a></p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left"><a
href="http://www.vandykestaxidermy.com/D800-P3971.aspx">Deodorizer Wash</a> is
particularly useful for smelly skins such as antelope, bear, coyote, and fox.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Use only COLD water.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Tumble or towel dry before going to the
tanning step.</p>
</li>
</ol><br /> </li>
<li><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Degreasing </strong></span>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Since these procedures are meant to be
used as guidelines for most tanning, we must include an extra step to cover those
particularly greasy skins such as bears, beavers, coyotes, raccoons, otters,
muskrats, and other types of animals that have greasy skins such as these. These
skins have high oil content and unless this oil is removed, many problems could
arise. Continual “greasing out” or odors are examples of these
problems.</p>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Note: If the skin has not been fleshed and
shaved properly, no degreaser will work correctly.</p>
<ol type="a">
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Draw a cold water bath.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Add a good quality degreasing agent and
follow the instructions on the degreaser. One such degreaser is <a
href="http://www.vandykestaxidermy.com/MKRDQ-P200.aspx">McKenzie
Relaxer/Degreaser.</a></p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">With this solvent, you will add 2 oz of
solvent to each gallon of water.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Use enough water so the skin is not
crowded in the solution.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Submerge the skin and agitate occasionally
for 30 minutes.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">After leaving the skin submerged, refer
back to the washing and deodorizing steps in #4, letters G, H, & I.</p>
</li>
</ol><br /> </li>
<li><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Tanning </strong></span>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">The following tanning procedure can be
used with most of the tans sold by Van Dyke’s. Choosing which tan to use is a
matter of personal preference. Two types of tans are; brush on tans (we recommend
<a href="http://www.vandykestaxidermy.com/MTQ-P191.aspx">McKenzie Tan</a>), and
soak tans. Both are equally effective but the method of application differs. Follow
the instructions on the tan that you have chosen. Regardless of which type of tan
you are using, if the skin is to be used as a mount, it can be mounted
“fresh” or right after the tan has penetrated.</p>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left"><strong>Note:</strong> Penetration times
vary on the type of tan used. For brush on tans, leave overnight. For soak tans,
12-18 hours is sufficient. Refer to the instructions that come with your tanning
product.</p>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Another option is used if the skin can not
be mounted right away, is to freeze the skin after tanning. Again, allow the tan to
penetrate first before freezing the hide. Towel drying the hair is usually
advisable before freezing and helps the tanned skin to thaw more quickly when you
are ready to mount.</p>
</li>
<li><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Softening </strong></span>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">This procedure is not necessary, and not
advisable, if the skin is to be used for a mount. Skins being used for rugs and
throws are more desirable if the skin is at least somewhat soft.</p>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Softening is often referred to as
breaking. This procedure actually breaks down the fibers in the leather, leaving it
soft.</p>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Thin skinned animals such as deer, fox and
bobcats are usually fairly easy to break.</p>
<ol type="a">
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">One method that works well is to dry the
hair thoroughly and hang the hide in a well ventilated area. Watch the skin closely
while it is hanging so as not to let it get completely dry.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">When the hide is about 80% dry, which is
when the hair is not “wet”, but the skin is still pliable, apply a good
quality softening oil, such as <a href="http://www.vandykestaxidermy.com/LOQ-
P198.aspx">McKenzie Leather Oil,</a> to the skin side of the hide.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">As the hide begins to dry after the first
layer of oil has been applied, stretching the hide should begin.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Stretch the hide in every direction 3-4
times each day.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">You should be able to see the hide start
to turn white as you stretch it, indicating the fibers in the leather are starting
to break.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">When the first application of softening
oil is about 80% dry, repeat this procedure.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Repeat again, a third and final time.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">As the hide dries this final time, stretch
and pull it even more frequently.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">By this time, the hide should remain soft
and pliable.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left"><strong>Note: Heavier hides require even
more breaking. Follow steps below for heavier hides. </strong></p>
<ol type="a">
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">These hides still require the 3
applications of softening oil but need additional breaking between drying
times.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">These hides are often broken by using a
“see-saw” motion over the edge of a 2 x 4 to help break it.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Going over the whole skin side of a hide
with a belt sander with 60 grit sandpaper will “dress” the hide giving
it a suede finished look.</p>
</li>
</ol><br /> </li>
<li><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Additional Information on
Extremely Heavy Hides </strong></span>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Extremely heavy hides are hides such as
beef and buffalo. These are very hard to work with without the proper
equipment.</p>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Equipment that is essential to this
process is a high quality fleshing machine, for shaving the hide, and an 8’
to 10’ heavy duty fur drum, for breaking the hide. A standard tumbler is NOT
an acceptable substitute for the above mentioned fur drum. Even with this
equipment, achieving an acceptable quality product is questionable at best.</p>
<ol type="a">
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">If you still plan on attempting this,
first of all, GOOD LUCK! This will be a difficult process.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Secondly, be prepared to spend at least 16
hours or longer on the fleshing machine, and even longer on the breaking
process.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left"><strong>If you do not have a <a
href="http://www.vandykestaxidermy.com/Dakota-Fleshers-C442.aspx">fleshing
machine,</a> it is highly recommended by Van Dykes staff, that you send the hide to
a professional tannery. </strong></p>
</li>
</ol><br /> </li>
<li><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Trouble
Shooting</strong></span><br /> <br /><ol type="a">
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Problem: “The hair is falling out of
my hide!”<br /><br />Probable Causes:</p>
<ol type="1">
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Improper field care.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Hide was not salted or fleshed
properly.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Proper pH levels were not maintained.</p>
</li>
</ol></li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Problem: “My hide has a smell to
it”<br /><br />Probable Causes:</p>
<ol type="1">
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Hide was not properly fleshed.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Hide was not properly degreased, washed,
or deodorized.</p>
</li>
</ol></li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Problem: “My hide does not have any
stretch or has excess shrinkage.”<br /><br />Probable Causes:</p>
<ol type="1">
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Hide was not thinned properly.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Hide was not neutralized.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Hide was soaked too long in tanning
solution <br /> (This occurs with soak tans more than brush tans)</p>
</li>
</ol></li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Problem: “I can’t get the hide
soft.”<br /><br />Probable Causes:</p>
<ol type="1">
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Hide was not thinned properly.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Hide was left to dry too long without
applying softening oil.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Hide was not broken (or, not broken
enough).</p>
</li>
</ol></li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Problem: “The hide has hard spots in
it”<br /><br />Probable Causes:</p>
<ol type="1"><ol type="1">
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Hide has thick spots that did not get
thinned.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Hide got folded over on itself in the
pickle or neutralizing bath.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Hide was salt dried hard and not relaxed
properly before putting it in the pickle.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="font-size: 15px;" align="left">Areas were missed in the breaking or
oiling application.</p>
</li>
</ol></ol></li>
</ol></li>
</ol></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
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