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Coastal Hazards Anatomy of A Continental Margin: Continental Shelf
Coastal Hazards Anatomy of A Continental Margin: Continental Shelf
• Gentle slopes
• Extends from water depths of 4000+ meters (ocean floor) up to continental shelf
• Steep slopes
•Deep-ocean trenches
•Depositional features
• Barrier islands
• Sand bars
• Spit: beach extended from mainland across bay due to longshore drift
Active Coasts: Near a Plate Boundary
Change in position of coast from uplift, down-dropping, or transform boundary exposes new
coast
•Erosional features
• Sea cliffs
• Rocky shorelines
• Biologically diverse
When global sea level was lower (ice ages), large areas of the bay were land surfaces
• As glaciers melted and sea level rose, ocean water filled the bay
•Tides: Longer relative period (12 hours – high tide, low tide)
Occur when the Moon’s gravitational attraction aligns with Sun’s gravitational attraction
• Vertical surface gives wind something to blow against -> even more water displaced
2) Wind duration
•BUT volume of water carried is the same -> wave height increases
•Breaking waves
- Plunging breakers
• More erosive
- spilling breakers
Where water depth varies along coastline, waves curve as they approach
Wave refraction
•Energy converges on areas where objects get in the way of the wave front
Convergence = additive
•Energy diverges from deeper areas or areas where shore shallows gently
Wave refraction
Divergence = subtractive
• Determined by the overall volume of water in the ocean and the shape of the basins
Average height of water in the world’s oceans is rising, on average over the modern era
Eustatic sea level rise is caused by tectonic processesChanging the ocean basin shape over long
periods of time
•The impact of storm surge on the Atlantic and Gulf Coasts is due in part to these being passive
•Short term fluctuations in sea level (relative sea level) are caused by storms, tides, and waves.
•Eustatic sea level is controlled by longer term trends in climate driven by plate tectonics. Sea
level is lower during colder periods because more water exists as ice on land. The distribution of
continents also influences the shape of the ocean’s basins, the rate of spreading at mid-ocean
ridges also influences the density (and thickness) of the oceanic crust).
•Wave normals rarely approach the shore head-on. The approach angle is usually oblique.
- Beach drift: as wave breaks, sand is carried up...gravity rolls it back down
- Longshore drift: cumulative effect of beach drift
•Longshore bars, with enough deposition over time, become barrier islands
- Littoral zone: The swash zone (shallow, where sand washes in and out) + the surf zone
Onshore
•Input (+)
•Output (-)
SI = Longshore drift(+)
•+: input
•sediment added to beach from erosion of seacliff and lakeshore bluffs on land, washed to shore
•+: input
Erosion (-)
•Waves, Wind
•Dynamic equilibrium
•Sea-level rise
•Barrier islands
•Fenwick Island
•Highly developed
•Assateague Island
•Less developed
•Barrier islands are slowly transgressing, “moving” west (or disappearing entirely)
•Economic value
•Tourism
•Property
•Cultural value
•What do: Best strategy to mitigate coastal erosion:engineering structures to disturb littoral
transport
•US Army Corps of Engineers dredged from 1937 on to maintain access to a constantly moving
channel mouth
Ocean City Jetty...inspired by hurricane
•Deposition Drift
•Erosion downdrift
ATTACHED BREAKWATER
•Connected to shore
•Longshore drift deposits on the updrift side; erodes on the downdrift side
•Longshore drift deposits between the breakwater and the shore; erodes beach downdrift of shore
•Wide beach, dune fields, beach grass absorb energy from storms and storm surges
•Used where Erosion (-) of beach material is greater than Supply (+)
•Phase 1 (1988): 1.7 million m3 sand dredged and pumped over 5-month period
Dune Management
•Planting beach grass and sea oats, Palm trees, Sea fences
•Warm, salty water from Gulf carried north on currents, flows by Northern Europe, where it
- Climate refers to conditions averaged over long periods of time. Because climate is an
- Weather is a daily phenomenon. The fact that the temperature may be high or low on any
Climate Forcings
•Frozen year-round
•Includes sea ice, ice caps, glaciers, ice sheets, and permafrost
Cryosphere
Glaciers make up a tiny fraction But melting glaciers can speed up global warming
•Lower albedo
BUT warming conditions can also bring more winter precipitation -> glacier growth!
- Prior to 2002 data suggested that the Antarctic ice sheet was accumulating ice.
- Since 2002 the Antarctic and Greenland ice sheets have steadily lost mass.
•19 of the 20 years warmest years on record have occurred since 2001
• Pangaea
During the last ~2 million years, Earth’s climate has been globally cold
•Plate Tectonics
Massive continental body around South Pole prevents circumpolar ocean circulation around
Antarctica
•Opening of Drake Passage allows cold and denseAntarctic waters to flow into Atlantic Ocean
•cold, dense ocean water able to flow across Icelandic-Faroes Ridge and into Atlantic Basin
•2-3 Mya: Isthmus of Panama rises, joins North and South America
•Gulf stream (warm ocean current) carries warmer water (and moisture) to northern reaches of
Northern Hemisphere
Milankovitch cycles: variations in Earth’s orbit & rotational axis with respect to the sun
Milankovitch cycles alter how much insolation (solar radiation) the Earth receives
Milankovitch Cycles
1) Eccentricity: Earth’s revolution about the Sun becomes more or less elliptical Over a time
2) Obliquity:Earth’s angle of obliquity (tilt on axis) varies between 22.5 and 24.5 degrees
3) Precession: Earth’s rotational axis precesses like a gyroscope angle is “fixed”, but orientation
varies
Characteristics of an Interglacial
•Warmer temperatures
Characteristics of an Interglacial
•Warmer temperatures
Historical Record
•Direct observations
•artwork
•Inferred observations
•Instead, you measure changes that you know are in response to climate
- Vegetation: tree cores, lichenometry
•In the rock record: direct evidence of glaciers via deposits that could only have formed in cold
climates
•Sea floor deposits: 18O Isotope records from ocean sediment cores
•Pollen
•Carbon-14
A geological proxy...Glaciers
•Glacier: large mass of ice that can move downhill under the influence of gravity
•Transport capacity is HUGE Mt. Hood, OregonGlacier ice has MASSIVE erosive power
Evidence of Glaciers
Moraines: Debris pile -- scoured and carried by glacier, piled up at its toe or on its sides
•Water isotopes
•Traps particulates
•dust
•pollutants
•Measurement from air bubbles and chemical signatures using ice cores taken at Vostok,
Antarctica
•Volcanic eruptions
•Ocean uptake
•ice cover
•vegetation cover
•greenhouse gases
•Infrared is invisible to the human eye but you can feel as heat
2. ~49% of thissunlight is absorbed at Earth's surface by the land, water, and vegetation
3. 17% of this absorbed energy is emitted from Earth's surface back into space in the form of
infrared radiation.
atmosphere.
5. Greenhouse gasesre-emitthat absorbed energy as infrared radiation back toward the Earth's
surface.
•Water vapor
•CO2
•Methane
•Some infrared radiation absorbed and re-released back to earth by gases in the atmosphere
•CLIMATE MODELS
Coming out of the last glacial period, the rate of CO2 increase was much lower than the
modern rate.
Acidified Oceans
Natural sources
•Removed from the atmosphere by certain types of bacteria or when destroyed by ultraviolet
radiation
Human sources
•Life of average N2O molecule is 114 years – much longer than CO2•Single most important
ozone-depleting substance
•Main sources
•decomposition
•cow farts
•rice cultivation
•leaky natural gas lines
Strongly light-absorbing
Soils
Acidified Oceans
Strongly light-absorbing
•On long timescales CO2 levels are determined by the balance of volcanic activity and
chemical weathering of Earth’s crust. Many forcings can influence climate on shorter
timescales.
•Periods in Earth’s history have been warmer than the present day. Atmospheric CO2 levels
have also been higher. HOWEVER, the rate CO2 accumulation in the atmosphere is faster
•The observed warming trend since the onset of the industrial revolution cannot be
Soils 1: weathering
- The Moon and the Earth are made of the same parent material
•Weathering: the breaking down of earth materials over time due to exposure to the elements
Mechanical Weathering
Types:
Hydraulic Action
Abrasion
- Tiny (or big) grains carried by the water, wind, or ice scour away at stationary rock or
soil-> Sandblasting
- Rivers: the force of rocks and stones carried by the river bash into the river bed and walls
Ice takes up a 9% more volume than the same amount of liquid water
Thermal expansion
Exfoliation
•When a large igneous (or metamorphic)body, formed deep under the surface under pressure
Biological activity
Plant growth exerts pressure, stressing the integrity of surrounding materials(and also facilitates
chemical weathering)
Chemical weathering
•Types:
•Dissolution
•Hydrolysis
•Oxidation
Dissolution
Potassium Feldspar + H2CO3 + H2O -> kaolinite (clay) + dissolved SiO2+ (HCO3)-
Hydrolysis
Oxidation
•Oxygen + rock àa different substance entirely Exposure to oxygen (and water) rusts rocks, too
•Takeaways: Soils 1
• Soils for by weathering (both mechanical and chemical) of the minerals in Earth’s crust
• Minerals in Bowen’s reaction series are unstable at Earth surface conditions. Those that form
last in the series are the least susceptible to weathering (this is why quartz is most abundant
byproducts as sediment.
• Water is critical for all kinds of weathering processes (both mechanical and chemical). Water
enables eroded sediment to be transported away, enables minerals to dissolve, and promotes
Soil is
A) Solid earth material that has been altered such that it can support rooted plant life- Definition
to a soil scientist
B) Any solid earth material that can be removed without blasting- Definition to an engineer
Soil Texture
Loam: fertile soil of roughly equal parts sand, silt, clay + some humus
•Percolation of water
• Carbonates
1. Parent Material
2. Slope
3. Time
4. Climate
•Temperature
•Precipitation
Slope
Time
•Visible layers
Climate
• Soil characteristics important for determining landslide and earthquake liquefaction risks
Expanding soils
•Soil Erosion: Grain-by-grain removal of mineral and organic material by wind and/or water
Gullies
Gully erosion progress through time is very difficult (impossible) to stop and mitigate
• 1/3 of the world’s cropland topsoils are eroding too fast to be replenished
• Urban “megagullies”
•Increased flooding
•Increased runoff
Takeaways: Soils 2
•Soils form from the top down through weathering of rock. A mature soil may take up to
•Residual soils are formed in place. Transported soils are deposited (e.g., by glacial transport)
eluviated zone; B = subsoil (accumulation zone); C = parent material; R = bedrock. One or more
•Soils composed of expandable clays are construction hazards because the ground expands
•Poor agricultural processes accelerate soil loss. Modern farming practices help to minimize
soil loss (crop rotation, windbreakers, contour plowing).
Mass wasting
Rock slide
•Sliding surface: STEEP tilted (planar) bedrock or cohesive sediment, often a bedding plane
Flowage
• Sliding surface: Bed beneath, separated from sliding material by water/air/bedding plane
• Speed:
Flowage – Earthflow
• What’s moving: Wet, partially cohesive, mass of soil and weathered rock
• Rate: Fast
• This one, originating from a coal mine, toppled pylons and crushed trees
Cohesivemass of snow/ice
Avalanches
• stability of snowpack
• weather
• Rate: FAST
Complex slide
• Ex: Soil slip occurs when unconsolidated materials lie over bedrock
Angle of repose: the steepest angle at which a sloping surface formed of loose material is stable.
• weak rock weathers and erodes quickly ->undermines support -> rockfalls
Topography
•Topographic relief
•10:37 am
Role of vegetation
• irrigation
–Houses/buildings/infrastructure
B. Awareness (and avoidance), Signage and education, Keep people out of the way
• Install drainage
• Stop waterinfiltration
• Plant vegetation
• Moisture content has a big influence on mass wasting (more water = greater driving force).
• Other factors, e.g., rock type, grain size, slope, vegetation, presence of buildings and roadcuts
also influence the balance between the driving force (gravity) and the restraining force (friction)
• Mitigation of mass wasting hazards usually involves improving drainage and decreasing water
Land Subsidence
•Land subsides (sinks) where resources are extracted from the subsurface.
•Usually this is ground water, but oil, gas and mineral extraction also
contribute to subsidence
Impacts
Chelyabinsk Airburst
• Small asteroid traveling nearly 7,000 meters per second (AKA Mach 20)
•Confusion
• Meteor astrophysicists focus efforts on monitor possible impacts from much larger objects
• NASA planetary scientist Paul Abell: “We used to think that a 20 meter-sized meteor wasn’t
that big a threat. But the Chelyabinsk meteor was only 20 meters and we saw what it could do.”
Asteroids
• Found in asteroid belt between Mars and Jupiter
Comets
• Rock
• “shooting star”: friction as they fall through air produces heat and light
• airburst
Iron-nickel meteorites
•Widmanstätten patterns:
Fingers of crystalline iron-nickel alloys make a geometric pattern in finely interwoven layers
Volcanic
Meteorite
• Simple
• Complex
nearest crater
- Extreme pressures at impact site, Heat forms tektites: melted, cemented rock
•Magnitude vs frequency
• Evidence: earth and moon materials are similar chemically (some internal structures in Earth’s
• Enriched in Ni and Cu
•3rd largest
• 100 km diameter
• impure, nanoscale
•Designated as a Geopark by UN
• Simultaneous craters?
• Popigai!
Mass Extinction
• Sudden loss of large numbers of plants and animals, relative to new species being added
Uniformitarianism
• Geologic processes we see today have been acting, slowly and steadily, throughout geologic
time
• Elegant, far-reaching
vs catastrophism
• Scholars couldn’t understand how mountains, river valleys, etc could have formed so quickly
•processes must be catastrophic in nature
BUT, occasionally...
•impact craters
•rapid extinctions
Punctuated uniformitarianism
• Plate Tectonics
• Flood basalts
• Impact or airburst
• Can be very large in scope, influence oceans, burn forests, block out sun with debris (cooling =
impact winter)
Major Mass
Extinction Events
1. Ordovician
Extinction Event
2. Permian
Extinction Event
Extinction Event
•Trilobite spp
•Brachiopods
• Fissure volcanoes
•Cretaceous-Paleogene boundary
2nd Fossils
atmosphere
•Tsunamis from impact, over 300 m high, wash over global oceans
• No sunlight, no photosynthesis
• Sunlight returns