Wards UHT 1903 1933 1943 Manual

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MODEL t933 h-l
OPEN ARM STRETCH STITCH
SEWING MACHINE
a
VE I t llIY

I lirlrlrttr Wttrltt l,lrrlr


2 llolrlrttt Wttrllt i,lrtr,lll
ll lilrlr:lr Wrrlllr llull',rll'lIi lr, 'l
4 lilrlr;lr lirrlrrr:lot
lr llrlrirrl lotr,,rorr llrrrl
(i Atttt (lovot llrtlrtrl (,rt,ll
/. llolrlrtrr Wttrllt lt'tt'.t,rn ltt .,
I I lttcitrl l;tko I lp I ovrt
S l itr;tt l'l;tltt (l r1;lrl lrr'.rr[')
10. Ilrtcittl (llrrr;k iilrrrrrll
1 1 Lowrtt lltt0;trl (rurrhr
12. Nr:etllt: l|;tt I lttrt,trl (,rrr,l,,
13. Presstlr I ool I lrttrrtlr l,r r,'u,
14. Neerlle
15. Pressrlr I ool llolrllt
16. Presser Ioot
17. Fabric Feetl l)or;:,
18. Bobbin Cit:;t: (iovcr (:;lr"lll, l,

I9. Needle Platc


2O. Seam Guidc I trtc:,
21. Needle Clatnp lir:r'w
22. Free Arm
23. Stitch Lenglh I)r;rl
24. Reverse Stilr;lr llrllorr
25. Hand Wheel
ELEGTFIICAL
CcINNEGTIcIIV
Remove foot control from carton and connect it to the machine by
inserting 3-hole plug over the three prongs on the side of the sewinl
machine head.
When you are ready to sew set foot control on the floor and connec
cord plug into electrical outlet.
33
On the right side of the machine above the terminal box, there is a lir
32
and power switch. Your machine will not operate unless the light anr
power switch is turned on.
Turning on the power automatically
illuminates the stitching area.
lf you are interrupted while sewing or
28 stop sewing, turn off the light which
automatically shuts off the power-
29
this is an important safety feature to
help you prevent accidents.
30

26. Spool Pins


27. Stop Motion Knob
28. Light and Poarer Switch
29. Terminal Box
3O. Number Plate
31. Bed Cwer
32. Presser Foot Release Lever When the machine is not in use, or when
33. Thread Cutter cleaning the machine. disconnect the
34. Presser Foot Lifter
35. Rear Thread Guide electrical cord from the wall outlet.
36. Handle
37. Arm Cover
IMPORTANT
Record and retain the model number and serial number of your MODEL NUMBER 1 933
new sewing machine for future reference.
You will find this information on the number plate as shown SERIAL NUMBER
on the diagram inside the front cover.

YOUR NEW MONTGOMERY IIVARD OPEN ARM


STRETCH STITCH SEWING MACHINE

Your new Montgomery Ward open arm stretch stitch Before attempting to sew, however, please read the
sewing machine is the product of many years of instruction book caref ully.
research and development in the field of household This booklet was prepared to help you learn how to
sewing machines. High quality materials have been operate your new Montgomery Ward machine and
used to assure perfect operating efficiency and years how to make use of its numerous sewing
of dependable service. Your machine was thoroughly possibilities.
tested before it was shipped to make sure that it The time you spend learning about your machine will
sewed perfectly. result in complete satisfaction and enjoyment of its
performance.
TAEILE c,F CC,NTENTS

GETTING TO KNOW YOUR SEWING CHANGING THE PRESSER FOOT .. . ..... 20 DARNTNG ........... 44
MACHINE 1 WHERE TO USE EACH STITCH. 21 OPEN ARM SEWING ......... 45
ELECTRICAL CONNECTION 2 REGULATINGTHREADTENSION ..,... 22 BUTTONHOLE AND BUTTON
YOUR NEW MONTGOMERY WARD OPEN ARM STARTING TO SEW- ......... 23 SEWING. 46
STRETCH STITCH SEWING STRAIGHT STITCH SEWING . . 24 SEAM AND EDGE FINISHING....., ........ 47
MACHINE 3 TACKING ENDS OF SEAMS. . . 25 MAINTENANCE ... .48
THE 2 IN 1 OPEN ARM SEWING TURNING CORNERS. . -....... 25 orLtNG. ........48
SURFACE 5 WORK.
REMOVING THE -..... 26 CLEANING THE STITCHING
SELECTING NEEDLE & THREAD 6 SEWING VERY SHEER FABRIC . .... ... 26 MECHANTSM .........50
NEEDLE, THREAD, AND FABRIC ZIGZAG SEWING 27 MOTOR BELT .......
CHART . 1 SATIN STITCH SEWING ...... 2A SEWING LIGHT BULB
SETTING THE NEEDLE. 8 STRETCH STITCH SEWING ..... .. . .. 29 . HELPFUL HINTS.. .,.. 52
REMOVING BOBBIN CASE AND BUTTONHOLESEWING. ......30 HOW TO OBTATN SERVTCE ........... 57
BOBBIN 9 BUTTON SEWING. . ......... 32 HOW TO OBTAIN REPLACEMENT
WINDING THE BOBBIN 10 BLIND HEM STITCHING. ... .. . 34 PARTS. 57
THREADING THE MACHINE 12 SEWING ZIPPERS AND CORDING .. . . . 36 EASY CONTROL GUIDE 58
REPLACING THE BOBBIN 14 VARIOUS SEWING PROCEDURES ... . 3l 60
SETTING LENGTH OF STITCH. 16 PLAIN SEAM .... 38 ATTACHMENTS, ACCESSORIES AND
REVERSE STITCHING. 16 MACHINE BASTING .... ... . . . 39 REPLACEMENT PARTS. 63
STITCH SELECTOR DIAL ... 17 OVERCASTING SEAMS. .....- 40
STITCH WIDTH.BUTTONHOLER DIAL , .. ... .. . 17 GATHERING, SHIRRING, AND
ACCESSORIES 18 RUFFLING .........41
GETTING AOUAINTED WITH YOUR APPLIOUE. ..........4',2
MACHINE'S ACCESSORIES 19 FREE-MOTION EMBROIDERY ....,.... 43
THE 2.IN.1 clPEN AFIM
SEWING! siUFlFACE
Your open arm sewing machine is designed with an exclusive 2-in-1 sewing surface.
For all regular sewing, it's a flat bed machine. Then by simply removing the extension
table, it becomes an open arm machine, to simplify sewing on any hard to reach area.
To remove the extension table, lift the left side of the case up and away. To attach,
set the o(tension table studs into the holes of the machine base and press down. The
drawer in the extension table is for storing the accessories.

Here are some of the many uses for your open


arm sewing machine:

o Mending and repairing pantlegs


o Darning socks
. Blind hem stitching cuffs
a Button and buttonhole sewing on sleeves
o Embroidery on cuffs and sleeves

All of the features of flat bed sewing are now


available to you on an open arm machine allowing
you more versatility than ever before.

Ei

I
SELEGTIIUG! NEEDLE A THFIEAtrI

Best results can be obtained only when you use the correct The knit needle (with blue shank) is designed especially for
needle and thread for the fabric being sewn. Lightweight sewing synthetic woven stretch and knit fabrics, as well as
fabrics require a thin needle and fine thread; heavier fabrics, a lingerie. elastic and other lightweight fabric that is usually
thicker needle and coarser thread. Too thick of needle can difficult to sew.
cause skipped stitches on delicate fabrics; too thin of needle It is designed with a ball point that enables the needle to
may bend or break on heavy fabrics. Never use a needle that penetrate the fabric without cutting the fibers and with a deep
is bent, or blunt at the point. long groove which protects the thread from interference by
knits that hug the needle.
There should be a similarity between the fiber of the fabric
and the fiber of the thread. This is important because the
thread should react as the fabric does to repeated dry
cleanings or washings, bleaches, and a hot iron.

t--1*r=
Correct needle lenglh is 1-t7h'.
NEEtrtLE, THFTEAtr, AND FAEIFilC CHAFTT
The chart shows size and type of thread, and needle size, for various weights and types of fabrics. Size means the fineness or
thickness of both needle and thread. Use the same thread for needle and bobbin.

DELICATE: #60 Mercerized Cotton


chiffon, tulle, organdy, sheer lace and net A SiIK
Fine Polyester Synthetic

LIGHTWEIGHT: #50 Mercerized Cotton


batiste, voile, taffeta, crepe, velvet satin, surah, peau de A SiIK
soie, brocade, tricot, matte jersey, single knits Fine Polyester Synthetic

MEDIUM WEIGHT:
#5O Mercerized Cotton
gingham. seersucker, percale, pique, linen. lightweight woolens,
A SiIK
chintz, fine corduroy, velveteen. suitings, double knits, spandex.
Polyester Synthetic
stretch terry. sweater knits

Heavy-Duty Mercerized
MEDIUM HEAVY:
Cotton
denim, duck, sailcloth, gabardine, tweed, drapery fabrics.
vinyl, corduroy, bonded fabric, short-pile fabrics, heavy knits
A SilK
Polyester Synthetic

Heavy-Duty Mercerized
HEAW:
Cotton
coatings, upholstery fabric, canvas, deep-pile fabrics
Polyester Synthetic

I-I
SETTING THE NEEDLE
Select a needle of proper type and size for fabric to be sewn.

..x

4=
-===ffi
--\-'-Lh I
-/'%t f:l
/L
I \r i

1. Turn hand wheel toward you until the 2. Loosen screw on needle clamp and 3. Place flat side of needle toward back I
needle bar raises to its highest point. remove the needle. of the machine, and insert in needle I
clamp as far as it will go; tighten I

L
FIEMOVING! ETCIEIEIIN CASE ANtrI EICIETBIN
ln preparing your machine for sewing, it is necessary to wind a bobbin with thread
place it properly in bobbin case, and insert bobbin and case in shuttle body of machine.
This Montgomery Ward Sewing Machine was shipped from factory with a bobbin and
case in position as for sewing. To remove the bobbin for winding with thread, remove
the extension table first, then:

\ffi) \o\$s--',-,-

1 . Turn hand wheel toward you until 2. Open bobbin case cover. 3 Grasp bobbin case latch and withdraw
needle bar is at its highest position. bobbin and case from shuttle body

To remove bobbin from case, release


latch and turn case upside down.

I
THFIEAtrIII\IG
THE
MAGHINE
There is only one correct way to
thread your machine for sewing.
The illustration at right shows
machine completely threaded.
The sequence of steps is described
and illustrated on next page.
llb-----'
>ll,-
,-\\ l-
)/l\,._./
/t),--.-\Y6'
------='1lW-
Ir- lff
lI
1 . Raise presser foot lifter. 2. furn hand wheel toward 3. Place a spool of thread on spool pin. Slip thread under
you to raise thread arm cover thread guide and rear thread guide.
take-up lever to its highest
point,

5, Following 6. Draw
slotted thread
threading path, down
bring thread through
down to the lower
thread check thread
spring and guide,
bring it across
)
needle
from right to
left. Pull thread
! upward (on the
left side of
4, Bring thread directly forward along slotted threading metal plate) and slip thread into the through eye of needle from
path (on the right side of metal plate). slotted hole of the thread take-up front to rear. Pull at least 3" of
lever from.right to left. thread through needle.
E.
K
rr'
I
l3
r-I
FIEPLACINGI THE EIGIE|ETIN
botrbin in case
When bobbin has been wound with thread, it must be fitted properly into bobbin
case.

1. Hold bobbin case in left hand with the 2 lnsert bobbin in case and draw thread up 3. Draw thread under tension spring
slot in the edge of the case on top. Hold into slot in case. into fork-shaped opening of spring. j
bobbin in right hand with thread on top Bobbin turns clockwise in case
leading from left to right. the extending thread is pulled.
I
casiG! in shuttle body

1 . After threading bobbin


case, open bobbin case
latch, grasping it in left
hand, with bobbin case
finger pointing up.
in 2. Slip bobbin and case on
stud of shuttle body, and
press on securely. Belease
bobbin case latch. Close
bobbin case cover.
w
3. Raise presser foot lifter.
Hold upper thread loosely
in left hand and turn hand
wheel toward you one
complete turn with right
hand. Draw end of bobbin
thread up through hole in
needle plate by Pulling
4. Place both threads under
presser foot toward rear
of machine.

upper thread.

-
EiETTING
LENGTH CIF SiTITCH
Your sewing machine can make from six to thirty
stitches per inch. As a rule. firm, closely woven fabric
takes a shorter stitch. Loosely woven fabrics sew
best with a longer stitch. Very thick, bulky fabrics,
o
Stitch Length Reaerse
o
Stitch Length
whether firm or loosely woven, require a longer stitch. For shortest stitch, turn dial to "\::iixi:l". For longest stitch, turn dial to "8".

MOST NORMAL SEWING is done with stitch length dial set at


4 or 5. Thrs produces a medium length stitch which makes a
strong seam and is suitable for most fabrics.

FIEVEFISE SiTITGHINGi
To sew in reverse as for tacking ends of seams, push button
Fabric normally moves from front to rear in center of Stitch Length dial and hold. Machine will feed
(away from the operator) when sewing.
fabric in reverse as long as button is held in.
STITCH
SELEGTGIFI DIAL 12345678 Stitch Selector

The stitch selection panel on the front of


the machine shows the stitches your
++EEYtjr:t I

machine is capable of making automatically.


The numbers above the stitches on the
stitch selection panel correspond to the C,\,

numbers on the Stitch Selector dial. Turn


the Stitch Selector to the number of the
desired stitch.
Note: Always raise the needle bar to its
highest position when turning the dial.

STITGH VT'TDTI{. Sti,tch Wi,dth Buttonholer


EIIJTTGINHcILEFI I
A B

tl u
c D

I
DIAL il

The Stitch Width-Buttonholer Dial has two


uses;

1. Controls the width of the zigzag stitch.


2. Buttonhole sewing.
For straight stitch and most attachment
sewing the dial should be set at "0".
@
For starting Buttonhole sewing, the dial
should be set at "A".
For wider zigzag width, turn dial to the right lnstructions in this booklet for each operation
for the correct click stop; the higher the specify the correct dial setting.
number, the wider the stitch.

17
I
CHANGINGi THE PFIESSEFI FclclT
$N[P:0!{r::l
l.ilmEg$dei,ffiT

The presser foot must be changed in order to use the other Certain presser feet cannot be constructed as snap-on feet.
accessories. ln those instances the presser foot holder must also be
changed.

1 Turn the hand wheel toward you until


the needle is at its highest Point
2. Lift up the presser foot by raising the
presser foot lifter.
3. Remove rhe presser foot by pulling the
presser foot release lever toward you,
fr
and the presser foot will be disengaged.
1 Turn the hand wheel toward I
s at ts
I;'r::1il:,"eedre I
2. Turn the presser foot thumb t
5
4. Place the desrred foot below the screw away from you untrl tif
t presser foot holder so that the pin on
the foot f its into the space between the
of f.
foot can be slipped ott.
3. Replace wrth the desrred fo{
I
presser foot holder bracket and the attachment. tighten thumb I
spring screw usrng screwdriver froI
) the accessory krt to make s$e
\4 5. Lower the presser bar by means of the
rt rs secure. I
presser foot lifter and the presser foot
will snap into place

When a job is completed that required special adjustment of the controls or a special sewing foot, always return the settings
to normal sewing position for straight sewing, and attach the Regular presser foot.
WHEFIE TO L'SE EACH SiTITCH

Straight o good for active sportswear


commercial o attaches elastic
Stretch uvercast o makes and finishes seams at the same time
o strong stretch stitch which holds where an
ordinary straight stitch breaks
o reinforces stress areas such as pants crotches
W
::::
and armholes on woven fabrics as well as
stretch fabrics
Feather o joins two pieces of fabric edge to edge
o topstitches o embroiders
,.\ x o attaches lace
o indispensable for bias sewing
o good for lingerie, bras and girdles
o quilting

Rick Rack o embroiders Box O mends

v/Nv// : il""",ffipriques n-n


a joins seams and overlaps seams
o overcasts
o makes decorative hems on soft fabrics

Multiple zigzag o overcasts fabrics that pucker with regular


Overcast o makes and finishes seams at the same time zigzag stitch
o good for repairing worn edges of older o dams
Mn garments o attaches elastic
o good for sewing jersey fabrics o embroiders

21

I
FIEGL'LATTNG THFIEAtrI
TENSItrIN
Thread tension must be properly balanced. lf adjustment is required,
it can usually be made by regulating upper thread tension
ADJUSTING UPPER
-NOT bobbin thread. THREAD TENSION
tl ll .TO INCREASE, lower presser foot and

UPPER THREAD
il turn tension dial to a higher number

TOP .TO DECREASE, lower presser foot and


TENSION TOO TIGHT turn tension dial to a lower number
OF
FABRIC 'I + MUST DECREASE
BQH8.IN'.T:ITREAE i.
.: .'U.TTFC.R..T:HRE,ITD

|ll lf it is impossible to balance the stitch by adjusting upper thread


!]l tension, it may be necessary to make a slight adjustment in bobbinl
I
I I BorroM UPPER THREAD
tension, which was preset and tested at the factory.
I
I
lll
III
oF
FABRIC
TENSION TOO LOOSE
+MUST INCREASE
I

ADJUSTING BOBBIN
THREAD TENSION

BOTH
NOTE: This is a very delicate adjustmenl
CORRECT and may require no more than a quarter t rt,
SIDES
the screw.)

aTO INCREASE, turn screw located on


bobbin case, slightly to the right
When stitch is unsatisfactory and seam puckers, .TO DECREASE. turn screw slightly to
tension may be too tight on both upper and bobbin the left.
threads.
STAFITING TCI SEVI'
When you have followed the steps outlined up to this point, your
machine is threaded and ready to sew. However, before actually
working on your garment, use a scrap of the fabric you will be sewing
to test the stitching. Some adjustment in stitch length or tension may
be required.

5. Press the foot control, and start to sew.


1. Raise presser foot 4 Place double thickness of fabric under the While sewing the hand wheel must always
presser foot, insert needle into fabric by turn forward.
2.Draw both threads under the presser foot rotating hand wheel toward you, and lower The speed at which the machine runs
to the rear of the machine. the foot. Always hold on to both threads depends on the amount of pressure placed
on the control.
when beginning to sew for the f irst several Guide the fabric, but do not pull it. Check
3. Turn the hand wheel toward you until the stitches in order to avord jamming the the stitching, both top and bottom, and
needle is at its highest point. machine. make any adjustment necessarY to
produce a perfect stitch,
NOTE: Always disconnect the wall plug when
the machine is not being used.

23
STFIAIGiHT STITGH SEVI/ING
Straight stitch sewing is done with the straight stitch presser foot and the needle in center
position.

STITCH SELECTOR

Straight stitch foot

USING THE STRAIGHT STITCH FOOT


The straight stitch foot should be used when sewing sheer or lightweight
fabric where extra support is needed. lt also should be used when a finer
seam finish is desired. Set stitch selector at "l" and the stitch width dial
at "O".
TACKTNG' ENtrIS CIF TIJFINING
SEAMS CcIFTNEFIsi
To reinforce the end of a seam, position the needle in the
fabric about 1/2-inch from the beginning point and lower the
presser foot.

Push the reverse button all the way in and hold while
1 Stop the machine with the 3. Using needle as a pivot, turn
backstitching to the edge of the fabric. Release the button and needle in the fabrlc. fabric; lower presser foot and
sew the seam. When you reach the end, again push the reverse 2. Raise the presser foot. COntinue sewrng.
button all the way in and backstitch for about I l2-inch.

r-r
SATIN STITCH EiEWII\IGi
The satin stitch presser foot is used for satin stitching and for sewing the decorative stitch patterns shown
on the stitch selection panel. This foot has a full indentation on the underside to permit easy sewing over
closely spaced zigzag stitches, and even feeding of the fabric.

STITCH SELEC

STITCH LENGTH

28
STFIETCH STTTGH SEVT/ING'
Over 55% of all fabrics sold today are synthetics. Stretch fabrics are used for many things. But without the
stretch stitch it would be impossible to sew these stretch fabrics. That's what's so nice about Model 1933 with
its built -in stretch stitches. lt assures you of a stitch that will give with the fabric............no binding or breaking.

s
Straight stitch foot

Turn pattern selector to desired stretch pattern. Your machine has 5


built-in stretch stitches;
:::: .\v/NV// . nAA - ffi, . A x

29
ETL,TTONHGILE SEVI/ING
The buttonhole foot is designed for maximum visibility and rides easily over the buttonhole stitching.
A buttonhole consists of two parallel rows of satin stitches connected at the ends. Correct positioning of the fabric
and accurate measuring and marking of the hole length are important in producing a professional-looking
buttonhole. Fabric must be guided carefully so that lines of stitching will be straight and close together, but not
touching.
First work a sample buttonhole in the same fabric as the garment and adjust the stitch length within " \lirrrlrl?/ "
mark to make sure that you have the most suitable setting, Use a double thickness of fabric, and include
interfacing for stability. The closer " 1-rrrr)/" is to zero, the closer the stitches in the buttonhole.

STITCH SELECTOB

1 ADJUST
CENTER LINE
WITH

N
MARK
PRESSER FOOT a\ _e STITCH
LENGTH
Buttonhole foot DIAL

END
MARK
i N13r* rrrm
\ Nrrrtij.r/

Mark position and Iength of buttonhole on


fabric. Length of the hole is determined by
the width and thrckness of the button
combined. The f inished buttonhole should be
1 8-inch longer than this measurement to
allow for bartacks at each end.

30
. -:.

Turn Stitch Width-Buttonholer Dial to " A "


+ When correct position is located, turn hand wheel
one complete turn forward so needle goes down
and up again, bringing up the bobbin thread on the
:'1
A surface of the fabric.
Lower presser foot and sew 5 or 6 bar-tack
stitches stopping with the needle out of the fabric'

$i:11ffi
Pull the buttonhole foot all the way f orward
Position fabric under presser foot so that the
ffi l=
l=
Turn Stitch Width-Buttonholer Dial to " B " and
sew at moderate speed until stitching reaches other
center line mark is in the center of the
buttonhole foot and the needle rs directly above
;: B l= end of mark.
l= Stop at the end mark with the needle out of the
the start line mark. fabric.
.:
1+$l*: Turn Stitch Width-Buttonholer Dial to " C " and
make 5 or 6 bar-tack stitches stopping with the
C needle out of the fabric.
<+

Turn Stitch Width-Buttonholer Dial to " D " and


sew in a straight line parallel to the first row of
After buttonhole is sewn, draw upper thread
stitches until you reach the original starting point.
through to underside, and knot upper and
bobbin threads D Stop the machine, raise the presser foot and
remove the fabric leaving several inches of thread
Cut center of buttonhole with embroidery lcr{.sF-i
scissors or seam ripper, being careful not to cut
for knotting.
stitching on either side

I
EIIJTTCIN SiEvt,TNG
It is possible to sew two- or four-hole buttons with your Montgomery Ward machine'

Rarse Presser foot and place button between I


foot and fabrrc. I
Turn hand wheel toward you and check to be I
sure needle goes down into the lef t-hand hole inl
the button at the lef t srde of the foot Lower thel
presser foot. I

32
@@o@ &
To sew a 4-hole button, follow the procedure above for the first
two holes. Then lift presser f oot slightly and move fabric to permit
stitching the other two holes, either independently, or cnss-cross
over the f irst two holes.
Hooks, snaps, etc., may be attached to garments in the same
manner as sewrng on buttons

Space between holes in the button determines the Stitch Width


setting. Set dial at No.3 or 4 and again slowly turn the wheel by
hand to see if the needle enters the right-hand hole in the button
lf not, adjust the dial to a hrgher or lower number until the needle
clears each hole.
When stitch rs properly adjusted, run machine at medium speed,
making f ive or six stitches. NOTE: A rounded toothpick may be placed on the button between
To lock stitch and prevent raveling, pull upper and bobbin threads the two holes while the button is being sewn to the fabric.
to underside of fabric and tie a knot. When the toothpick is removed, the button will be loosely
attached. Pull button up and wind thread around the threads
holding the button to form a stem.

33

r-I
__'-_

EILIIVD HEM STTTCHIIVGi


The btind hem stitch produces a durable hem which is almost invisible on the right side of the article sewn.
It may be used on regular hems, or hems finished with seam binding.

1. Attach regular presser foot. Sew on seam binding, if it is


be used. Measure, turn and press or baste hem in the
manner. lf seam binding is not used, f old over raw edge l
slightly more than 1 4 inch I
\ ft,
!1,:,t"''
i.",.'
$ \
N

Nqu VflA
5. When hem is completed, press hem.

4. Guide fabric evenly whrle sewing.

35

r-!

I
ilil

SEVT'INGi ZIPF'EFISi ANtr, COFIDING


The zipper foot is designed for stitching close to a raised edge.
When sewing zippers and cording, the foot can be adjusted to either
the right or left side of the needle for sewing close to the edge of the
zipper or cording.

3. Test position by slowly

1. Remove presser foot holder and attach


zipper foot.
2. Loosen thumb screw on the horizontal
bar and slide foot to the right or left of
the needle so strtching can be made
close to the edge of the zipper or
cording,

36
PLAIN SEAM
A plain seam is the most frequently used and the simplest seam
to sew. lt consists of sewing two pieces of fabric with the right
sides together.
Most garment patterns make allowance for a 5/8" seam.

For best results, some fabrics require stay stitching,


especially on curved seams or where one of the two pieces
being sewn together is cut on bias or must be eased to
match the other.
Set the controls for a straight stitch of a length suitable for
the fabric. After sewing, if seam is curved, clip at intervals.
To prevent ravelng, seams may be pinked or machine
STITCH LENGTH overcast. Spread out fabric and press seam flat.
MAGHINE ETASTINGi
Basting is temporary stitching used to join fabric sections so that the
garment can be tried on and fitted before permanent seams are sewn.

w
Regular foot

STITCH LENGTH

Set stitch length dial at 8. Stitch along the seam


lrne. After permanent stitching of the article is
completed, basting stitches can be removed easily
Reduce tension on the upper thread by by pulling the lower thread.
turning thread tension dial to a lower
number.

39
GIVEFICASTING SEAMS
Seam edges which tend to ravel can be given a durable finish with machine overcasting.

Overcasting stitch
The overcas,ing stitch
simultaneously makes and
finishes the seam.

Regular foot

@
Zigzag overcasting
Method 1:

Trim seam edges evenly and place Place stitching near edge or ."u.1
strtching over raw edge This type of allowance and trrm away excess t
seam f inish is best for f irmly woven fabrrc after strtchrng This tvpe of I
f abrics. seam frnrsh rs best for fabrrcs I
whrch fray easily, lrghtwerght I
labrrcs, and knrt f abrrcs whrch I
wirrroil
t
GAirHEFI!NGi! SHIFIF|IM
AND FIUFFLING!
Fabric can be gathered, ruffled or shirred without a special attachment.

STITCH SELECTOR

PRESSER FOOT _d- \


lt
Regular foot

i i\6rTCH LEr{GTri

1t\ 4-8

I , Set controls for medium length straight 3. Sew a line of stitching, or several equally spaced
stitch on lightweight fabric or long consecutive lines, depending on the effect preferred.
stitch for heavy fabric. 4. Pull ends of bobbin thread and slrde fabric back on
2, Reduce tension on upper thread by threads for the desired fullness.
turning tension dial to a lower number.
APPL!OUE
Applique is a cut-out design of one fabric sewn to another. This method of
decoration adds beauty and interest to wearing apparel and household items.
2. Set controls for satin
The design may be finished with a satin stitch or close zigzag stitch.
stitch or close zigzag
stitch. Sew around entire
edge of design. When
stitching is completed,
trim away any excess
fabric around the outer
STITCH SELECTOR
edge.

w
1

Method 2:
PRESSER FOOT d
Regular or Satin stitch foot 1 . After basting, outline
entire design with a short
straight machine stitch.
Trim edges close to
i ftfsrrrcHirHciH'
$iiiriiiiiiiiii;ffi stitching.

il\"','-,',',,
Method 1:
2. Readjust machine for
1 . Position the design and baste zigzag stitching.
it to the fabric by hand or Overstitch edge of

ffi
machine. desrgn. This results in a
smooth flnish which
requires no trimming.
---l

FFIEE.MC,TICIN EM EIFIOItrIEFIY
Free-motion machine embroidery is attractive and practical on wearing apparel and many household items. lt is
impossible to describe the unlimited effects that can be produced when the operator acquires dexterity in this
method of embroidering. However, each pattern requires different handling which can be achieved by test and
practice.
Basic steps in free-motion machine embroidering are:

STITCH SELECTOB

PRESSER FOOT o

Remove the
Presser Foot
I )t{sinaH
fl\=
LENGTD

2. Place design to be embroidered between the two


sections of embroidery hoop.
1 . Attach the darning plate on Set embroidery hoops under needle and lower presser
the needle plate. Remove the bar.
presser foot and presser foot
holder. 3. Start running machine at medium speed, guiding hoop
carefully so needle moves along line of the pattern. ''

43
I
tr,AFININGi
Worn or torn areas on household items and clothing can be darned quickly
with little practice.

STITCH LENGTH 2. Placefabric between the two sections of the


embroidery hoop. Set embroidery hoop under
needle and lower presser bar. Grasp fabric firmly in
front and back of area to be darned. Operate
machine, moving fabric forurard and backward with
an even motion, stitching in closely spaced rows
1 Attach the darning plate on over the hole or worn area.
the needle plate. Remove the Be sure to stitch into the firm fabric at each end.
presser foot and presser foot When the area is filled with new stitches, move
holder. fabric f rom side to side in a similar manner to
weave or reinforce the stitching.
NOTE: Reinforce open areas with an underlay;
baste underlay in place before darning.
GIPEN AFIM SE\,VING
Your open arm sewing machine is very convenient for sewing sleeves,
trousers and/or similar places that are difficult to sew on an ordinary
flat bed machine.
Practical uses and examples are shown on the following pages.

45
ETUTTCI]\IHCILE ANtrI
ETIJTTCIN SEVVING
Buttonholes and button sewing on cuffs can be easily done
on an open arm machine.
Refer to pages 30 and 31 for buttonholes and to pages 32
and 33 for button sewing.
SEAM AND EDGiE
FINISHIIVGi
Fabric turns freely around the open arm which makes sewing
cuffs and sleeves for various types of garments very easy
and accurate.
MAINTENANCE
oiling
lf machine is in use all day everyday, oil every week. Remove excess oil from parts that could possibly come in
With moderate use, oil it every two to three months. contact with fabric and stain it.
lf machine has not been used for a long period of time, oil it Use only sewing machine oil or a light weight non-detergent
before sewing. Place one drop of oil at each oiling point, oil.
indicated by arrows.

1 . Open face plate to reach oiling points 2. Lift arm cover and drop oil in holes in housing.
@

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o
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E
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cm
G.
Y<
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oo
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!ot
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F!
=)>
cleaning Che stiCching rnechanisrn
lf lint and bits of thread accumulate under the needle plate, around the fabric feed dogs, and in the
shuttle, this will interfere with the operation of the machine. Check occasionally and clean the stitching
mechanism when necessary.

H
ld

-----.--V'^E---=1
ffi//Iffi

'-1
Turn hand wheel toward you until needle reaches its highest position. I
Remove the lint that accumulate in the vicinity of the machine feed Remove extension table. Open bobbin case cover and remove bobbin
I
dogs with a soft brush. To do this, remove the needle plate by and bobbin case. Open latch retainers by swinging away from the
removing the two screws which hold it in place. Packed lint can be bobbin. Remove shuttle cover and half moon piece. Thoroughly clean
I

I
removed with a wooden pick. under the fabric feed and around the shuttle with a soft brush. put I

one drop oJ oil on the shuttle race (this is indicated by an arrow).


I
Replace half-moon which l6ys loosely in position, replace the cover,
I
making sure the notch pin fits in the notch. Lock in position by movinfl
the retainers toward the bobbin, until they click into position. Replacel
the bobbin and bobbin case, I
llrotol. belt ser ring light bulb
The motor belt may stretch from use. lt should be The sewing light is controlled by the light and
I tight enough to turn the hand wheel without power switch which is located on the bed of the
I
slipping, but not so tight as to cause the machine machine abore the terminal box. To replace the
to run heavily. Belt should run in a straight line from bulb, open face plate and unscrew bulb from socket.
motor pulley to hand wheel.

'l .
Remove arm cover and arm side cover by removing screws. CAUTION: Before attempting to change the bulb, remove the
2. Loosen motor bracket screws (A) and (B), and tighten the motor electrical cord from the wall outlet
belt.

5l
HELPFUL HTNTS

not t h rea d ed co rrec tit:i, t1,'i,'....:,j*

Iguide discs not properly set


spindle not positioneO cffreottv
r$,lnder stop not
HELPFIJL HTNTS

STITCHING MECHANISM MACHINE RUNS MACHINE WILL NOT SEW


JAMS HEAVILY

. Shuttle clogged with thread and lint a Machine needs oiling . Cord not plugged into electrical outlet
a Machine not threaded correctly o Lubricated with improper or gummy oil . Stop motion knob not tightened
o Sewing beyond the end of fabric . Motor belt too tight a Motor belt too loose or broken
. Stitch length dial set beloar 2. a Fabric too heavy to be sewn on this . 3-way connector not plugged into
a Not holding onto threads for the first machine machine socket
few stitches . Dirt or lint in shuttle o Light and power switch not switched
a Dirt or lint between teeth of fabric feed
dog
HELPFUL HINTSi

:B,OBB$I:THfiEAD :,,'',M Fi'|I€.D,O,E$,: ..r..,.

...'::f.SEP.e.A.qryg! .a
BB€AK$... .

r;rr1!,r,'Br-b-blneasethreadedincorrectlll.,l.-;,rr:1,:j ..rrfigedJ€,.6jrr*6ttodJneiiiii:ei$
rrr.'.,!t$F,,Ebi4 -rvo u nd u n e v e n y o r to o]
l f ri:- . .'''!,.{r*a*cr}!r:r;adle :;;;.:.,;;,;;:.:;::;;,::;:::.:,,
ii'i.::::i.l]8g,e}':6uality thread ' .,-,-.:'..,lr..,,',* . Needle is bent
'.;.t:r,!,.'.$.!i1of no h i n need le plate ro,ughliii r,:,:1,.j l
::r:r'trtrl,iorleei:*ize1*ea6s,itthi,i r,f
sharp
thread tension too tigfii..r''::.r'l:':',i .
E!lng:ili*6::.i.; ltri.'iiiir.r;;.; .,,....).;,.,,..,,,,,..,,1,

'iir!.l.;9sbbi,q
NOTE: lf bobbin thread cannot be pulled
;,tjrdt&grlc'm a y be m p r o pe rty insed&ti:,,!..
i
HELPFIJL HINTS

FABRIC PUCKERS MACHINE SKIPS LIGHT WILL NOT


STITCHES LIGHT

o Bulb burned out, see page 63 for


o Needle size not correct for size of thread a lncorrect needle size or type replacement.
o Stitch is too long for fabric o lncorrect needle length o Light and power switch not turned o
a Needle thread tension too tight a Bent or blunt needle
a Bobbin thread tension too tight a Needle inserted incorrectly
. Bobbin and upper spool thread not of a Machine incorrectly threaded
the same size r Thread too heavy for needle
o Fabric too sheer or too soft a Bobbin not threaded correctly in bobbin
(Use tissue paper underlay) case
. Presser foot being used is not holding a Poor quality thread
fabric taut enough o Presser foot being used is not holding
o Needle is blunt fabric taut enough
o Fabric has heavy finish on it which
deters stitch formation
a Needle is coated with fabric sizing
:a::::t: .:, ,:
,::.::'.1::::.:.:: t., ' , ::l::]..::tij1::*,-.,]

to, 6trtai:n ..::ffotfi}:'tl'te


The mcrchandise you havapqrchared;{.1,911 uq !gq.}eon ,;;;;:;,:
ceretul ly en g ineer@ a nd:m{ acrurgi{':*tldor l$imtgQm e ry
" *on[ep t r
Ward rigid quality standligliraAO shaElrf$ve vo*.!!*li$f actott!:::
Replacement Farts may be obtained'from your Mcntgomery
and dependable operation.'However, like all mechanical
Ward fletail Store, Catalog $tore or Mail Order House and -
msrchandiso, it may ocaqqb"lally reqqg1adiu9}trpn{ry ''"' labte'$furent rng tt'ory9u. p'ig--e..,.
maintenance.
fitElintenance,
..:rr,:i":,

".' '. . .r *lt*be ma*Eli


quoted in advance.
wil]
$hould you 6ver nEedlid pt*....&'eontact or aiisi*&; r

write your nearest Montgomery Ward Betail $tore. Catalog When requesting reptacement parts o" .ut" to gi;e the moJ;l
and,serial nurnber as show.Q on the n-qmber pla1g:which is
g.n'
$tore or Mail Order norygj,,;;,,, :,,.:,, , ,::.i,, r:$@e, qa*!ornersf{&,,ma"h,$f ,t,,i..*,,,,,,, :.:}:1:
e*''rit.n:rl*lji,:i :i"'i.l:
ffiovtnr THE FOLLOW[i! j=i::=,r
",:,.::
ii iht'mai l, you'*ill pay thE:tiansportatio n c h arges
'.,:'
1. Model, serial number and atl of the other daia shown on the
u orOei
from the shipping Point.
number plate which is mgr,tnled on thg.jorder baqk,,!,ornor o!,!hg

2, The date and tho Mo|t$iirtiery @!{$ianchl'{r&l whistt:* :

purchased your sewing rnachine.


3. State briefly the troubie you are having. !ti.;qi,:*t!:,rl
1li';i1!;,riia:
!si:]1;d;rt1-.rrj1l r:ilr;:,:*il1ti1:1 :::!:1:l.i:l,:.t5 7
:ii:l;?:lE:3!"1::r,l
attachrnentt straig

STRAIGHT
STITCH

ql
Regular Presser
Foot

MACHINE
BASTING

sATlNSTlrcH lllllllllllllllllllllll

SEWING ON
BUTTONS fabric
wheel until needle is clear of
Dial or Stitch
*Oo not adjust Stitch Width-Buttonholer
58 making adjustment in setttngs'
before
EASY GG,NTFIC'L G'UItrlE
attachrnent, straight and special stitch ser ring

===== Straight Stitch Foot.


\\\//\//\
STRETCH
irrrcrr
PATTERNS
A AAA
@
Regular Foot

\^) To INCREASE upper thread tension,


turn Tension Dial to a HIGHER
number; to DECREASE, turn to a Zipper Foot
LOWER number. After a
satisfactory setting is established, Remove the
it is seldom necessary to adjust Attach Presser
the Foot
Tension Dial. See detailed
instructions on Page 22. Set darning Remove the
Tension Settings at a LOWER plate Presser
Foot
number for Machine Basting.
BUTTON-
HOLES
(4 basic steps)
No need to
turn fabric.
Just turn BAR. { Adjust
the Stitch TACK Z-
_ within
Width-Button- this area.
holer Dial.
Buttonhole Foot

*Do not adjust Stitch Width-Buttonholer Dial or Stitch Selector with needle in fabric. Turn hand wheel until needle is clear of 59
fabric before making adjustment in settings.
ALPHAEIETICAL IIVtr'EX

ACCESSORIES (INCLUDED WITH


THEMACHTNE) ...18,19 STITCH . . .21, 29
COMMERCIAL OVERCAST
BUTTONHOLE FOOT coRDtNG .. .....36
sATrN STTTCH FOOT .. .........24 DARN|NG. ....... -. .44
STRAIGHT STITCH FOOT.. . .....24 EASY CONTROL GUIDE. .....58, 59
FOOT.
ztPPER ..........36 ELECTRICALCONNECTION ..,....... 2
ACCESSORYKIT..... .......18, 19 EMBROIDERY
APPLTOUE. .........42 FREE-MOT|ON . .. ......43
ATTACHMENTS, ACCESSORIES, AND GATHERING. SHIRRING, RUFFIING............41
REPLACEMENTPARTS. ..... -,....63 HELPFUL HINTS,. ..,52_56
BASTTNG. ..........39 HEMMING, BLINDHEM, ......34, 35
BELT. MOTOR ......51 LENGTH OF STITCH, ADJUSTING ..........,. 16
BLIND HEM STITCHING. .....34,35 LIGHT AND POWER SWITCH ........ 2
BOBBIN LIGHTBULB ........51
CASE.
INSERTING IN ..,.14, 15 MACHINE BASTING .. . ..... . 39
REMOV|NG. ............ I MOTOR BELT... ............51
wtNDrNG. ...... 10, 11 MULTIPLE ZIGZAGSTITCH .,........21
BOBBIN THREAD TENSION NEEDLEINSERTION ......... 8
ADJUSTMENT ............22 NEEDLE, SELECTION ,.,..,.. 6
BUTTON SEWING. . .32,33
BUTTONHOLE SEWNG. .....30, 31
CHANGING THE PRESSER FOOT . . .. .........20
CLEANING THE STITCHING
MECHANISM ...,,5O
t

NEEDLE,THREADING ..... .12,13 SEWINGLIGHT.- ...2,51


NEEDLE, THREAD AND FABRIC SHIRRTNG ........ .41
CHART. .......... 7 STARTING TO SEW. ........23
.
orLtNG .. . .48, 49 STITCHLENGTHDIAL... ............16
OPEN ARM SEWING 45_47 STITCHSELECTORDIAL.... .........17
OVERCAST STITCH. ...,.,..2'1 ,29 STITCH WIDTH DIAL .... . ........17
OVERCASTING SEAMS. .....41 STRAIGHTSTITCHSEWING . ......24
PARTSOFMACHINE ........ 1,2 STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH ..,.....2"1 ,29
REMOVING THE WORK. .....26 STRETCHSTITCHSEWING ..........29
REPLACEMENT PARTS AND SEAMS.
TACKING ENDS OF .........25
ACCESSORIES . -.. 57, 63 TENSION ADJUSTMENT .....22
REVERSE STITCHING. .......16 THE 2-IN-1 OPEN ARM SEWING
RICK RACK STITCH .21 , 29 SURFACE ..... .. 5
RUFFLTNG ..........41 THREAD, SELECTION.... .......... 6
sATtN ST|TCH|NG.... ......2A MACHINE
THREADING THE . .12_15
SEAMS (PLATN) . ............38 TURNING CORNERS. ......, .25
SEAM, OVERCASTING. ... -..40 UPPER THREAD TENSION
SERVICE. HOW TO OBTAIN. .........57 ADJUSTMENT ,..,..,.....22
WHERE TO USE EACH STITCH
WIDTH OF STITCH, ADJUSTING .....11
WINDING THE BOBBIN. ...... 10, 11
ZIGZAG SEWING. 27
ztPPERSEWING...... ......36

6l
ATTACHMENTEi, ACCESSG,FIIES A FIEPLACEMENT PAFITSi
. NNAME OF PART Part No. fitAME OF PAHT p6itrnr.o':,,,-

NEEDLES
Regular Needles (Package of 5 Size 9) 1 000 ATTACHMENTS AND. PARTS
Regular Needles (Package of 5 Size 1 1) 1 001
Regular Needles (Packaqe of 5 Size 1 4) 1002 Bobbins (Package of 1 2) 1024
Regular Needles (Package of 5 Size 16) 1 003 Oiler/brush 1016
Regular Needles (Package of 5 Size 1 8) 1 004
Regular Needles (Package of 5 Assorted sizes 9, I 1
1 005 Seam Ripper 'to22
14.16.18)
Ballpoint Needles (Packaqe of 5 Size 9) oo6 Screwdrivers (Large) 2000
Ballooint Needles (Package of 5 Size 1 oo7
(Small) 2001
Ballpoint Needles (Package of 5 Size 14) 008
Ballpoint Needles (Package of 5 Size 16) oo9 11117
Ouilting Guide
Ballpoint Needles (Package of 5 Assorted sizes 9, 1 1
1010
14.16) Sewing Light Bulb 1015
Twin Needles (One per package) 1011
Knit Needles (Package of 4) 1012 Felt Washer 1 407
PRESSER FOOT
Snop-on Feet Spool Pin 10770
Holder for snap-on feet o25 Spring for Spool Pin 10772
Regular foot 111
Satin Stitch foot 126 Needle Clamp and Screw 7063
Straight stitch foot 1 114
Buttonhole foot o26 Needle Plate 12092
Narrow hemming foot 1 116
Motor Belt 1 1902
Blind stitch foot 4s9
Button sewing foot I 119
Overcastinq foot 120
Cording foot 1 121 Bobbin Winder Rubber Ring 't352
Concealed zipper foot 1 122
Screw.on feet Bobbin Case (Complete) 1 020
Zipper foot 102A
Check Spring 11106
Darning foot 1 029

Roller foot 1 030 170


Electric Foot Control for Portable
Presser foot screw s1 54
Automatic Buttonholer 9259

Magnetic Seam Guide 1021


63
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ul
F
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