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Masculine Fashions: A Look Through History and the Future of the Fashion Industry

Laura E. Ditto

Alaska Pacific University, Anchorage

LS Seminar 20200: Introduction to Humanities

Prof. Timothy Rawson

November 24, 2020

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Masculine Fashions: A Look Through History and the Future of the Fashion Industry

Clothing trends permeate society in many different forms. From street-fashion to high

end couture designs, clothing has become a way to display self-expression and gender-identity.

However, fashion is an ever-evolving art form and has changed profoundly over the course of

history. Fashion has been a common way to display masculinity, and trends that amplify this

societal idea have developed greatly through humanity’s history. In order to explore where

fashion is going next, it is important to study how it has evolved over time, and how trends have

come and gone with history.

In this paper, masculinity and femininity will be defined as the societal expectation in the

western world for how the male or female sex was to act and dress during the time the individual

lived.

The developments of popular fashion trends are controlled by many different factors

including but not limited to, available materials, political or social movements, whether or not

styles have changed recently, lifestyles, societal expectations, and individual trendsetters (Steele

& Major, 2020). The ability to buy or have new clothing that matches current trends has always

been a sign of wealth and status (Thorpe, 2015).

Beginning around the 14th century, fashion trends became a way to show how much

wealth someone had or how well they could emulate the styles of aristocratic people (Thorpe,

2015). Following fashion trends as they are developed demonstrates both the financial ability to

buy into the trend as well as the consumer’s acute awareness for societal standards (Thorpe,

2015). The ability to convey social class, participate in fashion trends, and explore self-
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expression through clothing has stayed prevalent in society and is still being practiced, though

the styles have changed vastly throughout history.

Masculine Fashion in History

Third Century B.C.E. to Thirteenth Century C.E.

Early documented historical fashions were quite simple in color and design. Around the

third and fourth century B.C.E., Roman clothes changed very little between men and women.

Male clothing at the time consisted of a short-sleeved shirt called a tunica that was girded to knee

length and a woolen wrap known as a toga (Davenport, 1948). Women wore a very similar set of

clothes, though they were longer (Davenport, 1948).

By sixth century C.E. the toga went out of style, and the styles of tunics changed slightly

(Davenport, 1948). During this time, stripes, and other decorations like letters of the Greek

alphabet appeared on clothing (Davenport, 1948). The Roman style of dress became the

foundation for most European dress in the first five centuries of the common era (Davenport,

1948). Eastern influences added sleeves to the Roman tunic, and trousers became popular in

rigorous climates (Davenport,1948).

Over time, the tunic goes out of style for a more fitted garment, and patterned fabrics and

decorative bands become more prominent (Davenport, 1948). During the late twelfth century in

England, the upper body of garments became tighter and berets and brimmed hats came into

popularity (Davenport, 1948).

Fourteenth Century C.E.

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In the fourteenth century, France began to lead the styles of fashion with some influence

from England (Davenport, 1948). According to Davenport, longer gowns went out of style for

men, and were replaced by the doublet, which was progressively cut shorter over time (p. 190).

Decorative fabrics like brocade were introduced to men’s clothes at this time, and long outer

garments that dragged on the ground like a dress train became popular, especially for grand

occasions (Davenport, 1948). Men wore a style of tight hose at this time and trousers were

shortened along with most other body garments (Davenport, 1948). These were important

developments of fashion leading up to the beginning of the Renaissance, which was an event that

had a vast effect on the fashions in Europe.

Fifteenth Century C.E.

The fifteenth century ushered in Italy’s influence over fashion, such as the vast

assortment of fabrics that were introduced during this time (Davenport, 1948). Davenport writes

that both men’s and women’s clothes became fuller, and garments began to be made with a

larger assortment of colors (p. 272). During this century, there were many different styles of

garments recorded being worn by men. Long, robe like, outer garments as well as very short

versions with high necklines and capes were all worn at this time (Davenport, 1984).

Sixteenth Century C.E.

The sixteenth century was a crucial time in the development of fashion. The doublet

stayed tightly fitted, but the neck raised and became an actual collar, which would later develop

into the Elizabethan ruff (Davenport, 1948). It was also during this time that lace became

increasingly popular, and men’s clothes became more effeminate (Davenport, 1948). Male

fashions at this time had elongated waistlines, and their garments were stiffened with boning,
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much like a woman’s corset (Davenport, 1948). According to Davenport, men’s ears were

commonly pierced during this time with the rise in popularity of jewelry (p. 375). During the

latter part of the sixteenth century, sleeves became bulbous at the shoulders in a “leg-o’-mutton”

form (Davenport, 1948). It is during this century that shoes became rounded and were given a

more pronounced heel rather than a flat sole, which would continue to increase throughout the

seventeenth century (Davenport, 1948, Lewis, 2019).

Seventeenth Century C.E.

The most notable feature of men’s fashion throughout the seventeenth century was the

length and style of their hair. Facial hair was worn short or clean shaven, and head hair was

grown to a longer, more natural length, often being parted or cut with bangs across the forehead

(Davenport, 1948). An item that both men and women would wear during this time was a

cravat—a decorative scarf worn around the neck that was often seen made of lace in portraits of

King Louis XIV (Kim, 2018).

Near the middle of the seventeenth century, King Louis XIV became the ruler of France,

and is well known for his influence on fashion, sometimes even being referred to as “The King

of Couture” (Kim, 2018). The king mandated that textiles have a rotation two times a year,

which led to the innovation of fashion changing seasonally (Kim, 2018). A signature style of

King Louis XIV was his red high heels, along with a flowing, curled wig (Kim, 2018). In the last

half of the century, powdered wigs came into fashion and were sometimes styled with ribbons in

them, even on the male wearers (Davenport, 1948).

Eighteenth Century C.E.

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During the eighteenth century, fashions became predominantly French as Europe copied

their styles with little variation (Davenport, 1948). The full curled wigs passed out of style

except in professions such as doctors, bishops, and parliamentary positions; during the latter half

of the century, natural hair styled for everyday wear became common (Davenport, 1948). Over

the course of the eighteenth century, coats and waistcoats go through a major change in the style

of their skirts. They began with stiffening and were very full, much like women’s dresses; over

the century, however, the front was pinned increasingly further back until it was cut away into a

swallow-tailed frock coat (Davenport, 1948). As the century progressed, the heavy decoration of

the men’s waistcoat diminished while buttons increased in size leading into the nineteenth

century (Davenport, 1948).

Nineteenth Century C.E.

The nineteenth century saw a large progression in fashions over the decades, and styles of

men’s clothes come closer to modern styles of suits. Specific styles of coats become popular

such as the English double-breasted, and the single-breasted cutaway coat (Davenport, 1948).

Collars became taller and stood at about ear height, later in the century being folded down over

the cravat or a bowtie (Davenport, 1948). Breeches lengthened into pants over the course of the

eighteenth century and were often recorded being supported by suspenders (Davenport, 1948). In

the latter half of the century, there becomes a tendency to make coats, vests, and trousers match,

rather than mix the colors (Davenport, 1948). Hair is either styled short and curled near the ears

during this century or combed and styled flat, with a larger variety of styles becoming

commonplace in the later years of the century (Davenport, 1948). In last few decades, trousers

and coats become wider and less fitted, bowties replace cravats, and collars shrink leading into

the twentieth century (Davenport, 1948).

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The Shift in Ideas and Availability of Fashion

After the industrial revolution led to a boom in the textile industry, a massive

development in fashion began (Godley, 2013). After 1840, the idea of ready-made clothes came

about with the rise in demand for cheap, new garments (Godley, 2013). To make pre-assembled

garments that were ready to wear, standardized sizes were created so consumers could buy

garments that would require minimal tailoring after the purchase (Godley, 2013). The desire for

these sophisticated yet pre-made clothes in the urban class enabled the fashion industry to

expand rapidly (Godley, 2013).

In the western world, the mid 1900s marked a dramatic shift in the conceptualization of

fashion. Social norms began to relax, and the trends of self-determination, identity, and self-

representation expanded (Smith, 2012). It is during this time that we see the concept of fashion

emerging, as it is no longer being controlled entirely by those in power and instead being put into

the hands of the wearers and designers themselves (Smith, 2012). With the expansion of

fashionable ideas, the industry went with them; producers began to create a broader range of

styles in clothing designs that were available to more people (Smith, 2012).

Today, we see popularity with ready-made fashions throughout the fast-fashion industry,

which was created around the idea of producing fashionable garments at a fraction of the cost of

high couture name-brand items (Crumbie, 2019). Singh (2017), explained:

Fast-fashion retailers produce clothes that embody the style and fashion trends of the

modern world. They transform the designs of high society brands (such as Louis Vuitton

or Prada) into their own mass-produced items that are inexpensive for consumers and

bear a strong aesthetic resemblance (paras. 15).

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The availability of fashionable garments has allowed fashion trends to expand and be worn by

people outside of the upper-class, however, high-couture brands still have an influence on the

industry.

The Fashion Show

The promotion of clothing styles through the fashion show has become a principle event

in the fashion industry. In the late nineteenth century, fashion shows began as private viewings

of the latest designs for clients of Paris couture houses, but by the early twentieth century,

department store brands also began to present their clothing in a fashion show format with

professional models (Steele & Major, 2020). Near the turn of the twenty-first century, fashion

shows became more eccentric and theatrical, with catwalks playing a larger role in the

presentation (Steele & Major, 2020). These fashions shows are still used today to show off the

season’s latest designs to prospective clients as well as display a designer’s vision for trends and

their brand image (Steele & Major). This extravagant show is where many cutting-edge fashions

are introduced into society, which are now being broadcast to wider audiences with the

availability of media sources.

Masculinity in Fashion in the 21st Century

In the twenty-first century, we have seen a development in how fashion is perceived

through online media. Internet sources provide spaces to display and popularize fashion trends

before they even reach the market, as well as invite people to present their own personal styles to

a larger audience (Smith, 2012). Trends are started by people who are willing to wear new styles,

and if the public likes the style in its early stages of representation, it becomes a trend by people
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buying into it (Smith, 2012). With the broad range of styles and trends available, it allows people

to wear popular trends while still being able to convey identity through clothing (Smith, 2012).

The average person today would likely be seen wearing a fashion style referred to as

“world fashion,” which is a simplified version of Western fashion mainly consisting of a t-shirt

and jeans or a skirt (Steele & Major, 2020). However, beyond the streetwear we often seen worn

day to day, high-couture fashion on the runway is what is really expanding the horizons of

fashion and our common perceptions of what is socially accepted in terms of clothing styles.

On the runway this year, we have seen many flashy styles of fashion, even on the male

models. Mower (2020) explained the new styles, saying:

Sleeves pushed up and sweaters half-tucked, these chisel-cheekboned boys looked as if

they’d inherited the theory of every point of style from their grandmothers and their

grandfathers, but then forgot about them, and carved something new for themselves

(paras. 3).

The looks include shiny satin fabrics, bold rosette style decorations, crystals decorating fabrics in

intricate patterns, fur coats, tall velvet gloves, and leather (Yotka, 2020). The silhouette of this

season is slim, and several styles have been sporting shorts or long shirts that leave men’s thighs

exposed (Yotka, 2020). These new styles being developed seemingly push at the common ideal

of masculinity in society, painting them in a more effeminate light.

The Avant Garde of Fashion

Men’s fashion trends have been evolving over history in new and exciting ways but

predicting where they will be going next is difficult. Fashion trends are often in the hands of the

consumer, and if the consumers dislike what is offered, then there is little likelihood that those
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styles will become popular. However, even with the uncertainty, there are current events and

emerging styles that give a peek into the future of fashion.

With the events of COVID-19, many people in the fashion industry believe it will

influence trends throughout the world. A more conscious consumer mindset is leading people to

look for brands that state a solid ethical purpose in their business, which will affect how different

brands create their label going forward (Orlova, 2020). The pandemic is also affecting the

display of new fashions; runway shows have been moved online, and there is talk about

consolidating the many different seasons of fashion to fewer than the eight that already exist

(Orlova, 2020). This way, consumers would not be in and out of public shopping venues nearly

as much as they were before (Orlova, 2020).

In a fashion trend viewpoint, loungewear is increasingly popular for the general public, as

people are shopping for fashions to suit their stay-at-home lifestyles, but this trend may prevail

once the pandemic has passed (Orlova, 2020). Orlova (2020) explained:

The Great Depression and World War II transformed people's wardrobes; COVID-19

unavoidably will become a new trendsetter, but it is up to designers to lead this change

(paras. 9).

It is suspected that the leading change for trends will be cultural references pertaining to the

pandemic being picked up by designers and used in new styles of clothing. Beyond COVID-19,

however, recent runway styles are creating a shift in fashion trends and perceptions of

masculinity.

With the increasingly popular idea of self-expression through social-media platforms,

there has also been a push to de-gender clothing styles. I have noticed on social media apps such
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as Tik-Tok and Instagram an event referred to as “Femboy-Friday,” which is a trend encouraging

people to be more open with the ideas of gendered clothing. The liberation of gendered clothing

styles is on the rise, as is seen in the recent styles of runway fashion, which are becoming

increasingly extravagant (Mower, 2020). Mower, (2020) shares the exciting thought:

What if the 2020s are a time when it becomes completely anachronistic to think of

clothes and fabrics being assigned by gender? There’s a creative generation now in power

at the very top of fashion that sees none of those old boundaries (paras. 2).

From the lines of fashion now appearing on the runway, to the social-media trends appearing

across the internet, it would seem that skirts, fancy fabrics, slim silhouettes, jewelry, and detailed

embroidery are all going to be on the rise in masculine fashion as time goes on. Perhaps someday

soon there will hardly be a difference between feminine and masculine fashion trends at all.

The change in fashion trends is led by the consumer, who is making daily decisions on

what they consider to be fashionable based on what they see in the media. As feminine and

masculine styles become mixed together by young designers, the more likely it is that these

styles will be normalized and accepted into societal standards. The future of fashion holds a lot

of exciting innovation, especially with challenging the ideas of gendered clothing. As the public

sees a broader range of styles that mix the feminine with the masculine, consumers will be more

open to these innovative styles, and the trends will take root in the fashion of the future.

Masculinity in Fashion

Over the years, masculine fashions have changed and evolved. Historic styles like the

Roman tunica and toga came and went as well as the large, puffed sleeves of the sixteenth

century. Once upon a time, men’s tunics were stiffened much like the bodices of women’s
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corsets, and now in recent runway shows, seemingly feminine styles like elegant fabrics and

showing bare thighs are becoming masculine. What once used to be considered the epitome of

masculinity may seem very feminine now purely based on societal expectations and the mindset

of those consuming media and fashion. As the standards of masculinity and femininity continue

to develop with social media and the runway, fashion will surely follow.
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References
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Davenport, M. (1948). The book of costume (2 volumes) (Vol. 1). New York: Crown.

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Godley, A. (2013, July 19). The Development of the Clothing Industry: Technology and Fashion.

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