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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Eastern
USA
ME

ND VT New
MN MI
NY NH England
New York, MA p170
WI New Jersey & CT RI
SD
Pennsylvania
Great Lakes p60
p516 NJ
IA PA
NE OH MD DE
IN Washington, DC
IL WV
VA & the Capital Region
KY p250
KS MO
NC
TN
The South SC
OK AR
p332
GA
MS AL

LA
TX Florida
p452
FL

Trisha Ping, Ali Lemer, Charles Rawlings-Way, Regis St Louis,


Mara Vorhees, Isabel Albiston, Mark Baker, Amy C Balfour, Robert
Balkovich, Ray Bartlett, Jade Bremner, Gregor Clark, Ashley Harrell,
Adam Karlin, Brian Kluepfel, Vesna Maric, Virginia Maxwell, Hugh
McNaughtan, MaSovaida Morgan, Lorna Parkes, Kevin Raub, Simon
Richmond, Benedict Walker, Greg Ward, Karla Zimmerman
PLAN ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Eastern USA. . . 4 NEW YORK, Ogunquit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241
Eastern USA Map . . . . . . . . 6 NEW JERSEY & Portland. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241
Eastern USA’s Top 25. . . . . . 8 PENNSYLVANIA. . . . . 60
Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . . 20 New York City . . . . . . . . . . 61 WASHINGTON, DC
What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 New York State. . . . . . . . 123 & THE CAPITAL
Long Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 REGION . . . . . . . . . . . 250
Accommodations. . . . . . . . 24
Hudson Valley. . . . . . . . . . . 129 Washington, DC . . . . . . . 251
If You Like…. . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Catskills. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Maryland . . . . . . . . . . . . 280
Month by Month. . . . . . . . 30 Finger Lakes . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Baltimore. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 The Adirondacks . . . . . . . . 137 Annapolis. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287
Road Trips & Thousand Islands. . . . . . . . 141 Eastern Shore. . . . . . . . . . 289
Scenic Drives . . . . . . . . . . . 39 New Jersey . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Ocean City. . . . . . . . . . . . . 290
Outdoor Activities . . . . . . 46 Hoboken. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Delaware . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293
Eat & Drink Like a Local. . . 50 Princeton. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Wilmington &
Jersey Shore. . . . . . . . . . . . 148 Brandywine Valley . . . . . . 296
Family Travel. . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Pennsylvania. . . . . . . . . . 153 Dover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296
Regions at a Glance. . . . . . 57
Philadelphia . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Virginia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298
Pennsylvania Historic Triangle. . . . . . . . 304
Dutch Country . . . . . . . . . . 164 Norfolk. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
PISAPHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Pennsylvania Wilds . . . . . . 165 Virginia Beach. . . . . . . . . . 308


Pittsburgh. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 The Piedmont. . . . . . . . . . 309
Shenandoah Valley. . . . . . . 315
NEW ENGLAND. . . . . 170 Blue Ridge Highlands
Massachusetts . . . . . . . . 171 & Southwest Virginia. . . . . 319
Boston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 West Virginia. . . . . . . . . . 322
Cape Cod. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 Eastern Panhandle. . . . . . 323
The Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Monongahela
National Forest. . . . . . . . . 325
Pioneer Valley. . . . . . . . . . 203
New River &
EVERGLADES NATIONAL The Berkshires. . . . . . . . . 205 Greenbrier Valley . . . . . . . 327
PARK P478
Rhode Island. . . . . . . . . 208
Providence. . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
THE SOUTH. . . . . . . . 332
Newport. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
North Carolina . . . . . . . . 333
East Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213
BHOFACK2/GETTY IMAGES ©

The Triangle. . . . . . . . . . . . 342


Connecticut. . . . . . . . . . . 214
Charlotte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346
Hartford. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
Great Smoky Mountains
Litchfield Hills. . . . . . . . . . . 216 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 354
Connecticut Coast. . . . . . . 217 South Carolina . . . . . . . . 355
Vermont. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Charleston. . . . . . . . . . . . . 356
New Hampshire. . . . . . . 232 Lowcountry. . . . . . . . . . . . . 361
Lakes Region. . . . . . . . . . . 234 Myrtle Beach. . . . . . . . . . . . 363
White Mountains . . . . . . . 236 Greenville
Hanover. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 & the Upcountry. . . . . . . . . 365
CHEESESTEAK
SANDWICH P162
Maine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 Tennessee . . . . . . . . . . . . 366
Contents
UNDERSTAND

Memphis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366 Tampa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 497 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 616


Nashville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373 St Petersburg . . . . . . . . . . . 499 The Way of Life. . . . . . . 626
Kentucky . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386 Sarasota. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500 Arts & Architecture . . . 630
Louisville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 387 Sanibel & Music . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 633
Bluegrass Country. . . . . . . 391 Captiva Islands. . . . . . . . . . 501
Landscapes
Georgia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394 Naples . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 502 & Wildlife. . . . . . . . . . . . 636
Atlanta. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394 Central Florida . . . . . . . . 504
Alabama. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 414 Orlando . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 504
Birmingham . . . . . . . . . . . . 414 Walt Disney
World® Resort. . . . . . . . . . . 506
SURVIVAL
Montgomery. . . . . . . . . . . . 416
Universal
GUIDE
Selma. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417 Orlando Resort. . . . . . . . . . 508
Mobile. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418 Florida Panhandle . . . . . 511
Mississippi. . . . . . . . . . . . 419 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 642
Tallahassee . . . . . . . . . . . . . 511 Transportation . . . . . . . 649
Oxford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 419 Pensacola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 513
Mississippi Delta . . . . . . . . 420 Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 659
Jackson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422 Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . 669
GREAT LAKES. . . . . . 516
Natchez . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424
Gulf Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 425 Illinois. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 517
Arkansas . . . . . . . . . . . . . 425 Chicago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 517
Little Rock. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 425 Indiana. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 552
Hot Springs. . . . . . . . . . . . . 427 Indianapolis. . . . . . . . . . . . . 552
Tri-Peaks Region. . . . . . . . . 428 Ohio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 560
Ozark Mountains . . . . . . . . 430 Cleveland. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 561
Louisiana. . . . . . . . . . . . . 432 Erie Lakeshore
& Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 564
New Orleans . . . . . . . . . . . . 433
Ohio Amish Country . . . . . 565
St Francisville. . . . . . . . . . . 447
Columbus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 566
Cajun Country. . . . . . . . . . 448
Yellow Springs. . . . . . . . . . 567
Cajun Wetlands. . . . . . . . . . 449
Dayton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 568
Cincinnati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 568
FLORIDA . . . . . . . . . . 452 Southeastern Ohio. . . . . . . 571
South Florida . . . . . . . . . 453 Michigan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 572
Miami. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 453 Detroit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 572
Fort Lauderdale . . . . . . . . . 470 Dearborn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 579
Palm Beach. . . . . . . . . . . . . 474 Ann Arbor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 580 SPECIAL
The Everglades. . . . . . . . . . 478 Central Michigan . . . . . . . . 580
Florida Keys . . . . . . . . . . . . 482
FEATURES
Gold Coast. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 583
Atlantic Coast. . . . . . . . . 488 Straits of Mackinac . . . . . . 587 Road Trips &
Space Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . 488 Scenic Drives . . . . . . . . . . 39
Upper Peninsula. . . . . . . . . 588
Daytona Beach. . . . . . . . . 490 Outdoor Activities. . . . . . 46
Wisconsin . . . . . . . . . . . . 591
St Augustine. . . . . . . . . . . . 491 Milwaukee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 591 Family Travel. . . . . . . . . . . 54
Jacksonville. . . . . . . . . . . . . 493 Minnesota . . . . . . . . . . . . 602 Central Park in 3D. . . . . 84
Amelia Island . . . . . . . . . . . 495 Minneapolis. . . . . . . . . . . . . 602 National Mall in 3D . . . 260
Southwest Florida . . . . . 496 St Paul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 608
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
35

Itineraries
CANADA MAINE

VERMONT • Portland
#
NEW
Gulf of
HAMPSHIRE

É
Maine

• Portsmouth
#

É
• Salem
#
Concord
#
• # Provincetown
NEW Bennington #
• É É • #

YORK Boston
É • Cape Cod
#
MASSACHUSETTS
É

CONNECTICUT RHODE
ISLAND

É
• Montauk
# A T L A N T I C
É
É O C E A N
PENNSYLVANIA New York #•
City
NEW
JERSEY

2 KS Up the Coast
WEE

Get your big-city fill in the biggest city of all, then mosey into New England for small-
town pleasures.
The great dynamo of art, fashion and culture, New York City is America at its most
urbane. Spend three days blending touristy must-dos – Top of the Rock viewpoint,
­Upper East Side art museums, Central Park rambling – with vibrant nightlife and dining
adventures, perhaps in the East Village. After big-city culture, catch your breath at the
pretty beaches and enticing charms of Montauk on Long Island. Back in NYC, catch the
train to Boston for two days, visiting historic sights, dining in the North End and pub-
hopping in Cambridge. Rent a car and drive to Cape Cod, with its idyllic dunes, forests
and pretty shores. Leave time for Provincetown, the Cape’s liveliest settlement. Then
set off for a three-day jaunt taking in New England’s back roads, covered bridges, pictur-
esque towns and beautiful scenery, staying at heritage B&Bs en route. Highlights include
Salem and Concord in Massachusetts; Bennington in Vermont; and Portsmouth in
New Hampshire. If time allows, head onward to Maine for lobster feasts amid beauti-
fully rugged coastlines – Portland is a fine place to start.
36
# New York City

PENNSYLVANIA
Amish

É
Lancaster NEW JERSEY
Chicago •
#
Country #

#

#
• #
• É Philadelphia

É
É
OHIO Pittsburgh MD DELAWARE
# WASHINGTON, DC
_
INDIANA

É
ILLINOIS Jamestown/
WEST
PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s

VIRGINIA VIRGINIA # Williamsburg


É
É
KENTUCKY
# Durham/

NORTH Chapel Hill
CAROLINA
É

TENNESSEE
SOUTH AT L A N TI C

É
Memphis • # CAROLINA
OCEAN
ARKANSAS
Clarksdale •
# # Charleston

GEORGIA
ALABAMA #

É Savannah
#

Vicksburg •
# Montgomery
É

# MISSISSIPPI
Natchez •
#

Mobile
É

LOUISIANA # New Orleans


• FLORIDA

4KS Eastern Grand Tour


WEE

This road trip loops around the East through towns large and small, as blues joints, pie
shops and civil-rights sights flash by.
Start in New York City (but hire a car more cheaply in New Jersey) and hit the road
for week one. Head west toward Lancaster to explore the idyllic back roads of Pennsyl-
vania Dutch Country. Next is Pittsburgh, a surprising town of picturesque bridges and
cutting-edge museums. Enter Ohio by interstate, but quickly step back in time amid the
horses, buggies and byways of Amish Country. See the skyscrapers rising on the hori-
zon? That’s big-shouldered Chicago. Hang out for a few days to marvel at famous art-
works and steely architecture, and chow through the city’s celebrated restaurant scene.
For week two, motor south from Chicago on old Route 66, at least for a few time-warped,
pie-filled miles. Memphis is the next destination, a draw for Elvis fans, barbecue connois-
seurs, civil-rights students and blues-music buffs alike. Follow the Great River Rd south
from here through juke-jointed Clarksdale, the Civil War battlegrounds of Vicksburg and
the antebellum mansions of Natchez. It’s not far now to New Orleans, where you can hear
live jazz, consult with a voodoo priestess and spoon into thick, spicy-rich gumbo.
Begin journeying back east for week three. Wheel along the Gulf Coast to the azalea-
lined boulevards of Mobile, then inland to Montgomery, to see the world-renowned
Memorial for Peace and Justice, a tribute to the victims of lynching. Fall under the spell
of live oaks in Savannah and pastel architecture and decadent food in Charleston.
Take your pick of Durham or Chapel Hill, side-by-side university towns offering
groovy nightlife.
Begin week four brushing up on your history in Virginia. Visit Jamestown, where
Pocahontas helped the New World’s first English settlement survive, then wander
through the 18th century at nearby Williamsburg. A pair of big cities completes the
route: Washington, DC, is a museum free-for-all, while Philadelphia fires up the Lib-
erty Bell, Ben Franklin and the mighty, meaty cheesesteak. Finally, it’s back to the neon
lights of NYC.
37
neW # Boston

CanaDa MassaCHUsetts
YOrK
rHODe IsLanD

É
WIsCOnsIn
MInnesOta COnneCtICUt
MICHIGan
# New York City

PennsYLVanIa neW JerseY
#

Chicago #• Philadelphia

É
DeLaWare
OHIO # WASHINGTON, DC
_

PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s
InDIana
ILLInOIs West MarYLanD
VIrGInIa
VIrGInIa

KentUCKY
nOrtH
CarOLIna
tennessee
É A T L A N T I C
arKansas

É
sOUtH
O C E A N
CarOLIna

MIssIssIPPI GeOrGIa

aLaBaMa
É

LOUIsIana #•
New FLOrIDa
Orleans

Everglades ÷ # Miami
#•
National Park

3 KS Bright Lights, Big Cities


WEE

For big, brawny, bold metropolises, the East is your place. These are the cities that
never sleep.
Begin with a few days in history-rich Boston. Walk the Freedom Trail past Paul
­ evere’s house. Hang out in Harvard Sq’s cafes and bookshops, and chow down in North
R
End trattorias and oyster houses. Then catch the train to New York City. With four
days, you can indulge in iconic Manhattan and beyond. Stroll Central Park, walk the
canyons of Wall St, go bohemian in Greenwich Village and catch a ferry to the Statue of
Liberty. For a more local scene, join residents on the High Line, in Nolita’s stylish shops
and in Queens’ creative microbreweries and galleries.
Next hop on board a train to Philadelphia, which is practically down the block from
NYC. Philly was the birthplace of American independence, and has the Liberty Bell and
Declaration of Independence artifacts to prove it. Spend a few days touring the historic
sites and indulging in foodie delights like the Italian Market. Don’t leave the Northeast
without spending a few days in Washington, DC, a quick trip by bus or train. Beyond
the staggering number of free museums and monuments – the Air and Space Museum
and Lincoln Memorial among them – the US capital has rich dining and drinking scenes
in Logan Circle, Shaw and along U St. Who knows what politico might be swirling a
whisky next to you?
It’s a long haul to Miami (flying is the easy way to go), so allocate four days to get
your money’s worth exploring the exotic museums and galleries, the art deco district,
Little Havana and sexy, sultry South Beach. For a change of pace, day-trip to the Ever-
glades and commune with alligators. Keep the Southern thing going in jazz-loving New
Orleans, with a soundtrack of smokin’-hot funk/brass bands and the sizzle of Cajun and
Creole food. Three days of heavy eating with locals in Uptown, the Central Business Dis-
trict, Marigny and the Bywater should do it.
Last, but not least, Chicago leaps up; the City of New Orleans train is a scenic way to
arrive. Bike to the beach, see mod art in Millennium Park and plug into the blues.
38

PennsYLVanIa neW
JerseY

OHIO MarYLanD
#Rehoboth Beach

# Assateague Island

PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s

InDIana Monongahela
National Forest ÷
# ÷
# Shenandoah
National Park
West

É
VIrGInIa

É
New River Gorge ÷#
National River VIrGInIa

KentUCKY
• Outer Banks
#
É # Cape Hatteras

É #

Ocracoke Island
É
nOrtH CarOLIna
#

Great Smoky ÷# Gatlinburg
Mountains
tennessee National Park

sOUtH AT L A N TI C
CarOLIna
OCEAN
GeOrGIa

2 KS The Great Outdoors


WEE

This trip is for those who like their nature ancient and wild. Timbered mountains, rag-
ing rivers and sheltered islands are all on tap.
Shenandoah National Park rolls out the welcome mat: this sliver of gorgeousness
straddles the Blue Ridge Mountains, so-named for their color when glimpsed in the hazy
cerulean distance. Besides scenic drives, hiking is the big to-do here. Five hundred miles
of paths – including 100 miles of the Appalachian Trail – wind by spring wildflowers,
summer waterfalls and fiery autumn leaves. More activities await a few hours west at
Monongahela National Forest, where you can strap on ropes for Seneca Rocks or a
bicycle helmet for the Greenbrier River Trail. Adventure-sports enthusiasts will find their
wet-and-wild bliss nearby at New River Gorge National River. Outfitters provide
white-water rafting gear for the infamous Class V rapids.
Next up: Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Though it’s the USA’s most popu-
lar patch of parkland, you can leave most of the crowds behind if you’re willing to hike or
paddle – studies have shown that 95% of tourists here never venture more than 100 yards
from their cars! After a day spent in the wilderness surrounded by lush, heather-colored
peaks, there’s nothing quite like arriving in Gatlinburg, the park’s kitschy base. Prepare
for fudge shops, Ripley’s Believe It or Not oddities and moonshine distilleries.
So goes the first week. Now it’s time to fuel up for the twisty drive through the moun-
tains and across to the coast, where the Outer Banks pay off big. Laid-back beach
towns full of locally owned ice-cream shops and mom-and-pop motels dot the wind-
swept barrier islands. Check out Cape Hatteras, with its unspoiled dunes, marshes
and woodlands, or catch the ferry to remote Ocracoke Island, where the wild ponies
run. Speaking of which: more wild horses roam Assateague Island, which floats to
the north between Virginia and Maryland. It too offers brilliant, secluded beaches and a
landscape ripe for birding, kayaking, crabbing and fishing. Still craving surf and sand?
Family-friendly, gay-friendly Rehoboth Beach bestows traditional gingerbread houses,
kiddie amusements and a big ol’ boardwalk along the oceanfront.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
6 56

Behind the Scenes


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WRITER THANKS spots. With a shout-out to Mary, Anna and Margie


for their recommendations. And yes, Michael, I’ll
Isabel Albiston include Celtic Crossing! Thank you to co-writers
Thanks to everyone in Massachusetts who an- Karla Zimmerman, Adam Karlin, and the Destina-
swered my questions so patiently and treated me tion Editor team for their Nashville and Franklin
so kindly, especially to all the museum guides who hospitality and expertise!
showed me around along the way. Thanks also to
Leah, Julie and Andrea for your warm hospitality Robert Balkovich
and to Trisha for commissioning me for such a Thank you to my family – my mother, father and
great project. Lastly, huge thanks to Ellie, Alan and sister – and friends for their love and support.
Liz for traveling out to join me at the end of my trip. Special thanks to Michael, Raghnild, Elizabeth
and Ming for their hospitality and wealth of tips,
Mark Baker and to Matthew for your friendship on the road.
So many people came out of the woodwork to And thank you to Trisha Ping for this opportunity,
help me carry out research in Minnesota and Wis- and many others.
consin. A partial list would include, in Minnesota:
Monte Hanson, Alex Friedrich, Leif Pettersen, Liz Ray Bartlett
Puhl, Zach Peterson, Stacey Mae McGowan Olson Huge thanks to Trisha and Evan, the rest of the
and Robert Olson. In Wisconsin, I’d like to thank Lonely Planet staff, and my family and friends.
Sarah Lewison, Richard Ryan and Joan Menefee, You rock. Met such great folks along the way,
among many others. I’d also like to thank Trisha thanks for making the trip what it was: Charissa
Ping, the Lonely Planet Destination Editor who and Bret; Tara, Amber, and Shannon; Palma
first invited me to pitch for this project. and Karyn; May Lee; Theresa and Jessenia;
Rebeckah and Ashley; ‘Cousin’ Steve; Ericha and
Amy C Balfour Bria; ­Austin (Habari!); Yimee Nguyen; Sabrina
For Mississippi insights, thank you Jim Foley, Eone V; Michael Milgate; Kelley Luikey; birder Sara;
Moore, Lake Andrews, Sarah Nobles, Kevin Webb Swanee; Jason and Sam; and, of course, Kiko the
and Erik Arnold. Team Tennessee includes Jeff and Mermaid. Can’t wait to be back again soon.
Heather Kelsey, Lauren Batte, Jim Hester, Frank
Watson, Chad Graddy and David Wells. Melissa Jade Bremner
and Michael Peeler, thank you for letting me crash Thanks to knowledgeable Destination Editor Trisha
at your place and for escorting me to all the good Ping for all her wisdom on the Southern States.
restaurants, watering holes and Memphis hot- Plus, the hardworking Georgia and North Caro-
6 57
lina barbecue chefs for cooking all that mind-­ Brian Kluepfel
blowingly good smoky meat and sauce that To my wife and North Star, Paula Zorrilla. To
fueled my entire trip around the South. Thanks ­Trisha at Lonely Planet, and Robert and Adam,
to North Carolina locals Norm and Skye for their my writing cohorts. To Marc in Atlantic City,
top tips and local advice. Last, but definitely not Brooke in Montauk, and Tom K in Hoboken for
least, thanks to everyone working hard behind local knowledge. To Joe Dawson, Laura Tafuri
the scenes – Cheree Broughton, Dianne and and Karen Ramos for cool beach recommen-
Jane, Helen Elfer and Neill Coen.

BE H I N D TH E SC E N E S
dations. And to all the lovely toll-takers on the
Garden State Parkway, some of whom I now
Gregor Clark know on a first-name basis.
Thanks to the many fellow Vermonters who
shared their favorite spots in the Green Moun- Ali Lemer
tain State with me this edition – especially Many thanks to Will Coley, Nicole Marsella,
Shawn O’Neil, Margo Whitcomb, Victoria St Adam Michaels, Regis St Louis and Trisha Ping,
John, Jim Lockridge and Joy Cohen – and to and to Professor Kenneth Jackson, who taught
Gaen, Meigan and Chloe for a lifetime of com- me more about NYC history than anyone. My
panionship on our family adventures in this work is dedicated to the memory of my father,
gorgeous place we call home. Albert Lemer, a first-generation New Yorker who
inspired my enthusiasm for international travel
Ashley Harrell as much as he kindled my love of our shared
Thanks to Erin Morris for welcoming me to your hometown – the greatest city in the world.
state; Kourtnay King and Paul Haynes for taking
me in and enabling me; Chandler Routman for Vesna Maric
getting me out of the house; Jason, Elizabeth, Thanks to Trisha Ping and Evan Godt for commis-
Iris and Loulou Ryan for being a great family; sioning me; to Alicia Estefania and Susana Felices;
Patty Pascal for your unbridled enthusiasm; and a huge thanks to Marta Vila for her generosity.
Halsey Perrin, Kim Jamieson and Ruta Fox for Thank you to Atena Sherry for fun times.
your help and expertise; and Chris Dorsel for
still being amazing. Virginia Maxwell
Thanks to DC locals Barbara Balman and Bob
Adam Karlin
Bresnahan for their convivial company and in-
Thank you: Trisha for commissioning this re- sider tips; to Trisha Ping for giving me the gig
cent edition, Evan for taking over, and my road and supplying interesting leads; to DC expert
trip friends and co-authors extraordinaire Amy Karla Zimmerman; and to traveling compan-
and Karla. Thank you to the staff, students ions Eveline Zoutendijk, George Grundy and
and faculty of the University of New Orleans Ryan Ver Berkmoes. At home in Australia,
CWW for helping me find my voice when it thanks and much love to Peter Handsaker,
comes to writing about the South. Thank you who coped with apartment-renovation chaos
mom and dad for all you do, and thank you my and didn’t blame me for my absence (well, not
favorite traveling companions: Rachel, Sanda too much).
and Isaac.

THIS BOOK ­ organ, Lorna Parkes, Kevin


M
Raub, Simon Richmond,
Bennett, Nigel Chin, Samantha
Cook, Lucy Cowie, Andrea
This 5th edition of Lonely ­Benedict Walker, Greg Ward Dobbin, Emma Gibbs, Carly
­Planet’s Eastern USA guide- and Karla Zimmerman. This Hall, Victoria Harrison, Jennifer
book was curated by Trisha guidebook was produced by Hattam, Gabrielle Innes, Helen
Ping, Ali Lemer, Martine Power, the following: Koehne, Kellie Langdon, Lou
Charles Rawlings-Way, Regis Destination Editors Evan McGregor, Rosie Nicholson,
St Louis and Mara Vorhees. It Godt, Trisha Ping Kristin Odijk, Monique Perrin,
was researched and written by Senior Product Editors Mani Ramaswamy, Sarah
Trisha Ping, Ali Lemer, Regis ­Martine Power, Vicky Smith Reid, Fionnuala Twomey, Sam
St Louis, Mara Vorhees, Isabel Wheeler
Regional Senior
Albiston, Mark Baker, Amy ­Cartographer Alison Lyall Cartographer Rachel Imeson
C Balfour, Robert Balkovich, Cover Researcher Meri
Product Editor Carolyn Boicos
Ray Bartlett, Jade Bremner, Blazevski
Gregor Clark, Ashley Harrell, Book Designer Gwen Cotter
Thanks to Sain Alizada,
Adam Karlin, Brian Kluepfel, Assisting Editors Sarah
Fergal Condon, Joel Cotterell,
Vesna Maric, Virginia Maxwell, Bailey, James Bainbridge,
Sasha Drew, Bruce Evans,
Hugh McNaughtan, MaSovaida Imogen Bannister, Michelle
Charlotte Orr
658
MaSovaida Morgan lous meal at Sabbathday Shaker Village, Scott
Thank you to the lovely souls in Savannah and ­Cowger for the tips and barn tour in Hallowell,
beyond who provided tips, guidance and feed- Jack Burke and Julie Van De Graaf for their
back for this project. In particular, many thanks kindness in Castine, and Gregor Clark and
to Chad Faries and Emily Jones, Robert Firth, Diane Plauche for general Maine suggestions.
and Trisha Ping for bringing me on. Special Special thanks to my family, who make coming
thanks and love to Ny, Ty and Haj. home the best part of travel.
BE H I N D TH E SC E N E S

Barbara Noe Kennedy Mara Vorhees


I can’t thank enough the endless line of Wash- To the server at a Gloucester restaurant, who
ingtonians who always point me in the right recommended that I spend my afternoon at
direction, keeping me up to date with the latest a certain delightful beach (which is not in this
and greatest happenings. But no one can book). Thanks for sharing your secret spot. I
surpass the tireless devotion of Kate Gibbs at won’t tell.
Destination DC, who’s always there to answer
my next question or let me know about the next
Benedict Walker
exhibition – thanks! I also would like to thank A special thanks to Cheryl Cowie and Keri
my husband, David Kennedy, who is always Berthelot for their guidance, support and
game to experience all that DC has to offer – Reiki II’s on the road. As always, to Trish Walker
so much fun! for countless hours in the prayer chair, and
a big shout-out to family; Andy, Sally and P
Lorna Parkes for making sure I didn’t overdo the lobster! In
Thank you to the residents of New York for your memory of Kevin Hennessy, Ainsley Crabbe and
friendliness, as well as your endearing day- Ben Carey, my fellow adventurers who passed
to-day sidewalk and subway rage; the latter I away in other lands while I was researching this
expected, but the former not so much. Thanks title. A little part of you remains in Rhode Island
to Kat and Heather who at various points joined for me, always. You’ll like it there!
me to rate the best cocktail mixologists and
live-music dives. Thanks most of all to Austin
Greg Ward
and Lily who waited patiently for me to return Thanks to the many wonderful people who
home, and to Rob and my in-laws for holding helped me on the road, especially at Historic
family life together in my absence. Stagville Plantation, Price’s Chicken Coop,
­Bryson City Bicycles and the Orange County
Trisha Ping Visitor Center. Thanks too to my editor Trisha
Thanks to Alicia Johnson for the sports intel, Ping for giving me this opportunity, and to my
Bailey Freeman for the local edit and Martine dear wife Sam for everything else.
and Sasha for signing me on!
Karla Zimmerman
Kevin Raub Many thanks to Paula Andruss, Lisa Beran, Lisa
Thanks to Trisha Ping and all my fellow partners DiChiera, Ruggero Fatica, Chuck Palmer, Keith
in crime at Lonely Planet. On the road, Jordan Pandolfi and Bob Sanders for taking the time to
Mazzoni, Erika Dahl, Ali Lechlitner, Anita and share their favorite local spots. Thanks most to
Kevin Welch, Jana and Bill Swigart, Tom and Eric Markowitz, the world’s best partner-for-life
Alice Erlandson, Erika Dahl, Marla Cichowski, and road trip companion. You top my Best List
Gina Speckman, Jessica Waytenick, Jeff Berg, every time.
Luanne Mattson, Sarah Prasil, Erin Hawkins,
Erin White, Tyra Miller and Morgan Snyder.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Simon Richmond Climate map data adapted from Peel MC,
Many thanks to the following people who gen- Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat-
erously shared their time and knowledge about ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate
Philadelphia: Jerry Silverman, Lindsay Ryan, Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System
Tish Byrne, Mason Wray and Rajeev Shankar. Sciences, 11, 1633–44.

Regis St Louis Cover photograph: South Beach, Miami; John


Coletti/AWL Images ©
I am grateful to countless innkeepers, park
rangers, baristas, shop owners and folks ‘from
Illustrations pp84–5, pp260–1 by Javier
away’ who provided shared Maine insight.
Zarracina.
Special thanks to Brother Arnold for a fabu-
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
6 59

Index
10,000 Islands 481 Walt Disney World® Resort Carnegie Museum of Institute of Contemporary
606 531 19, 506-8, 19 Art 167 Art (Miami) 461
Wisconsin Dells 596 Chazen Museum of Art Intuit: The Center for
ancient mounds 552, 572, 619 596-7 Intuitive & Outsider
A animals 636-40, see also Chicago Cultural Center 521 Art 528
Abingdon 321 individual species Chrysler Museum of Isabella Stewart Gardner
Acadia National Park 10, Art 307 Museum 183
Ann Arbor 580
247-8, 331, 10, 330 Annapolis 287-9 Clark Art Institute 207 Jepson Center for the Arts
accessible travel 122, 642 Cleveland Museum of 408-9
Antietam National ­Battlefield Lexington Art League at
accommodations 24-5, 54, 292 Art 561
55-6, see also individual Cummer Museum of Art & Loudoun House 391
Apalachicola National Margulies Collection at
locations Forest 512 Gardens 493-4
activities 28, 30-4, 46-9, see Currier Museum of Art the Warehouse 462
Apostle Islands 600-2 MASS MoCA 207
also individual activities 232-3
Appalachian Trail 19, 47, Mennello Museum of
Adirondacks, the 137-41 Delaware Art Museum 296
316, 19 American Art 504
air travel 649-50, 651-2 Detroit Institute of Arts 573
Appomattox 314-15 Met Breuer 79, 82
Alabama 414-19 Dia:Beacon 129
aquariums Metropolitan Museum of
Albany 138-9 District of Columbia Arts
Florida Aquarium 497 Art 78
alcohol 645, see also beer, Center 266
bourbon Georgia Aquarium 395 Milwaukee Art Museum
Dr Evermor’s Sculpture
National Aquarium 281-2 Park 596 592
Alexandria 299-302
Shedd Aquarium 523 Eric Carle Museum of Minneapolis Institute of
Alexandria Bay 141-2
South Carolina ­Aquarium Picture Book Art 205 Art 603
Ali, Muhammad 387
357 Farnsworth Art Museum MoMA PS1 88
alligators 639
South Florida Science 246 Museum of Contemporary
Amelia Island 495-6 Center & Aquarium 476 Art (Chicago) 527
Florida Museum of
Amherst 204-5 Tennessee Aquarium 383 Museum of Contemporary
­Photographic Arts 497
Amish communities 16, 164, Virginia Aquarium & Art Detroit 573, 575
Frick Art & Historical
559, 565-6, 16 Marine Science Center Center 166 Museum of Contemporary
amusement & water parks 308 Frick Collection 78 Art Jacksonville 494
27-8 architecture 26-7, 632 Museum of Contemporary
Frist Center for the Visual
Anakeesta 385-6 area codes 647 Arts 376 Art North Miami 463
Busch Gardens 497 Arkansas 425-32 Gagosian 69 Museum of Contemporary
Casino Pier 150 Photography 523
Arlington 299 Galerie F 528-9
Cedar Point Amusement Museum of Fine Arts
Arrington 377 Georgia Museum of Art 406
Park 564 (Boston) 183
Art Basel Miami Beach 34 Gibbes Museum of Art 356
Dinosaur Kingdom II 318 Museum of Modern Art 73
art museums & galleries Guggenheim Museum 78
Dollywood 385 National Gallery of Art 255
Albright-Knox Art Gallery Harvard Art Museums
ICON Orlando 504 National Museum of
143 183, 185 Mexican Art 523
Luna Park 87 American Visionary Art Herbert F Johnson New Museum of
Rapids Water Park 476 Museum 283 Museum of Art 136 ­Contemporary Art 69-70
SeaWorld 504-5 Andy Warhol Museum 166 High Museum of Art 395 New Orleans Museum of
Steel Pier 150 Art Institute of Chicago 520 Hirshhorn Museum 259 Art 438
Trimpers Rides 290 Bakehouse Art Complex Hood Museum of Art 240 Noguchi Museum 88
Universal Orlando Resort 462 Hunter Museum of Ameri- Norman Rockwell Museum
508-11 Baker Museum 503 can Art 383 206
Valleyfair 602 Barnes Foundation 153 Hyde Collection Art North Carolina Museum of
Birmingham Museum of Museum 139 Art 343
Art 415 Indianapolis Museum of Norton Museum of Art 476
Map Pages 000 Broad Art Museum 580-1 Art 553 NSU Art Museum Fort
Photo Pages 000 Bushwick Collective 87-8 Institute of Contemporary Lauderdale 471
Art (Boston) 179
660
art museums & galleries Asbury Park 148-9 Berkeley Springs 324-5 Pictured Rocks National
continued Asheville 351-4 Berkshires, the 205-8 Lakeshore 589
Ogden Museum of Assateague Island 290 Berlin 565 Washington, DC 268
Southern Art 439 Athens (Georgia) 406-8 Bethel 249 Bogue Banks 340
Opus 40 Sculpture Park Athens (Ohio) 571 bicycling 47, 652 Boldt Castle 141
& Museum 135 Bonnaroo Music & Arts
Orlando Museum of Atlanta 394-404, 396-7 Abingdon 321
Boston 185 Festival 32, 381
Art 504 Atlantic City 150-1
booking services 25
I N D E X A - B

Parrish Art Museum 125 Atlantic Coast 488-96 Cape Cod Rail Trail 195
Chicago 531 books 630-1, 632, 636
Paula Cooper Gallery 69 ATMs 645
Cumberland 293 Boone 350-1
Pérez Art Museum Miami Auburn 560
Detroit 575 Boothbay Harbor 245-6
457, 459 Aurora 136
Duluth 610 border crossings 650
Philadelphia Museum of
Art 23, 154 Falmouth 194 Boston 18, 174-92, 176-7,
Phillips Collection 266 B Fayetteville 329 180-1
B&Bs 24 accommodations 186-7
Pizzuti Collection 566 Franconia Notch State
Baltimore 280-7 Park 238 activities 185
Portland Museum of
Art 243 Bar Harbor 248-9, 330 Indiana Dunes 559 children, travel with 179
Provincetown Art Barataria Preserve 446 Miami 463, 465 drinking & nightlife
­Association & Museum Barnegat Peninsula 149-50 Minuteman Commuter 189-90
199 baseball 628 Bikeway 192 entertainment 190
Renwick Gallery 264 basketball 629 New York City 88 festivals & events 186
Reynolds Center for Bath 245 Northampton 204 food 187-9
American Art & Palm Beach 475 itineraries 175
bathrooms 647
Portraiture 265
Battle Green 192 Provincetown 199 LGBTIQ+ travelers 189
Ringling Museum
beaches 29 Richmond 311 shopping 190-1
­Complex 500
Acadia National Park 248 Sleeping Bear Dunes sights 174-85
RISD Museum of Art 209
Bahia Honda State ­National Lakeshore tourist offices 191
Rodin Museum 155 585
Park 485 tours 185
Rubin Museum of Art 68 Tallahassee 512
Belleayre 133 travel to/from 191
Salvador Dalí Museum Washington, DC 268
499 Canaveral National travel within 191-2
Seashore 489 birds 640 walking tour 184, 184
SCAD Museum of Art 408
Captiva Island 501 bird-watching Boston Tea Party 182, 617
Smith College Museum
of Art 204 Chicago 531-2 Cape May 152 Boundary Waters 613
Southeast Museum of Fire Island National Grafton Notch State bourbon 16, 388
Photography 490 Seashore 124 Park 249
Brandywine Valley 296
Speed Art Museum 387-8 Folly Beach 361 Lake Martin 450
Brattleboro 222-3
Taubman Museum of Fort Lauderdale 471 Laura Quinn Wild Bird
Sanctuary 483 Bretton Woods 238-9
Art 320 Gulf Islands National
Seashore 514 Merritt Island National breweries 23, see also
Torpedo Factory Art distilleries
Center 301 Hammonasset Beach 219 Wildlife Refuge
488-9 Asheville 351, 353
Virginia Museum of Fine Kiawah Island 361
Pea Island National Boston 189-90
Arts 310 Martha’s Vineyard 202
Wildlife Refuge 336 Brew Ridge Trail 314
Void Projects 459 Miami 456, 457, 42 Pelee Island 565 Burlington 231
Wadsworth Atheneum 215 Muskegon 584 Birmingham 414-16 Cape Cod 196
Walker Art Center 603 Myrtle Beach 363-4
Walters Art Museum 282-3 black bears 637-8, 13 Charleston 360
Naples 503 Chicago 23, 541, 542, 543
Weisman Art Museum 603 Block Island 212
Ocean City 290 Cleveland 562, 563
Whitney Museum of Bloomington 556
Ocracoke Beach 339 Grand Rapids 581-2
American Art 67 Blowing Rock 349-50
Ogunquit 241 Mad River Valley 227
Williams College M ­ useum blue crabs 288
Orient 128 Milwaukee 592
of Art 207 Blue Ridge Highlands
Saugatuck 584 319-22 Minneapolis 607
Wolfsonian-FIU 456
St Augustine 492 Blue Ridge Pkwy 16, 39-40, Muskegon 584
Wynwood Walls 461
Virginia Beach 308 320, 349, 16 Nantucket 201-2
Yale Center for British
Art 219 Beaufort (North Carolina) Bluegrass Country 391-2 New York 112-13
340
Yale University Art bluegrass music 43, 321 Pittsburgh 168
Gallery 219-20 Beaufort (South Carolina)
blues music 421, 527, 633 Portland 244
362-3
arts 630-2, see also boat travel 651, 652 Stowe 228
individual arts Beckley 328-9
boat trips Washington, DC 275, 276
Beecher Stowe, Harriet 215
Chesapeake Bay 289 Bronze Fonz 592
beer 276, see also breweries
Fort Lauderdale 471-2 Brooklyn Bridge 86
Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream
Map Pages 000 Factory 228 Islamorada 484 Brooklyn Heights
Photo Pages 000 Bennington 223-4 Key Largo 483 ­Promenade 86
66 1
Brown University 209 Charlotte 346-8 Civil Rights movement 621-2 Dexter Avenue Parsonage
Brunswick 412-14 Charlottesville 312-14 Martin Luther King Jr 416
budgeting 21, 24, 52, 54 Charm 565 398-9, 416 Dickinson, Emily 205
Buffalo 142-4 Chatham 196-8 landmarks 417-18 disabilities, travelers with
Buffalo National River Chattanooga 382-4 memorials 416-17 122, 642
429, 432 Chelsea Market 67-8 museums 367, 394-5, distilleries, see also
Burlington 229-32 414, 418, 422, 569 breweries
Chesapeake Bay 281,
trails 15, 415 Firefly Distillery 362

I N D E X B - E
bus travel 651, 652-3 288, 289
bushwalking, see hiking Chicago 10, 23, 517-48, Civil War 301, 619-20 Jack Daniel’s Distillery
367
Bushwick Collective 87-8 522, 524-5 Clarksdale 421-2
Cleveland 561-4 Kentucky 388
business hours 646 accommodations 533-7
climate 20, 30, 31, 32, 33, Maker’s Mark 393
activities 531-2
34, see also individual Ole Smoky Moonshine
children, travel with 532
C drinking & nightlife 541-3
regions 386
Cadillac Mountain 248 CNN Center 395 Siesta Key Rum 501
entertainment 543-6 Wigle Whiskey 167
Cahawba 418 Coca-Cola 395
festivals & events 533 diving 48-9, 340-1, 486
Cahokia Mounds State cold exposure 644
Historic Site 552 food 537-41 dogsledding 613
Columbus (Indiana) 557-8
Cajun Country 448-9 history 517, 520 Dolly Sods Wilderness 325
Columbus (Ohio) 566-7
Cajun culture 433 itineraries 520 dolphins 640
Concord 192-3
Cajun Prairie 450-1 LGBTIQ+ travelers 545 Door County 599-600
Coney Island 87
Cajun Wetlands 449-51 shopping 546-7 Douglas 584-5
Connecticut 214-21
Cambridge 183, 185, 189 sights 520-31 Dover 296-8
consulates 643
camping 24 tours 532-3 drinks, see beer, bourbon
cooking classes 53
Canada, travel to/from 650 travel to/from 547 driving, see car travel,
Coral Castle 479
Cannon Mountain 237-8 travel within 547-8 scenic drives
Cornucopia 601
canoeing, see kayaking & walking tour 530, 530 drugs 645
Corolla 333, 336, 29
canoeing children, travel with 24-5, Duke University 344
54-6 costs 21, 24, 52, 54
Cape Cod 194-200, 197 country music 375, 634
Duluth 610-11
Cape Cod National Atlanta 395 Duquesne Incline 166
Boston 179 coyotes 639
­Seashore 198 Durham 344-5
Chicago 532 Crawford Notch 238-9
Cape Hatteras National Dylan, Bob 611
Seashore 336 Miami 463 credit cards 645
Cape May 152-3 New Orleans 435 Creole culture 433
Capital Region 58, 250-329, Chimney Rock 351 Crisfield 281 E
252-3 Chrysler Building 76 crocodiles 639, 11 earthquakes 637
accommodations 250 churches & cathedrals Crooked Road 321 East Bay 213-14
climate 250 16th Street Baptist Crystal Coast 340-1 East Lansing 580-1
food 250 Church 414 culture 626-9 Eastern Panhandle 323-5
highlights 252-3 Anthony Chapel 428 Cumberland 293 Eastern Shore 289-90
travel seasons 250 Cathedral Church of St Cumberland Island N ­ ational Eastern State Penitentiary
John the Divine 86 Seashore 413 156-7
Capitol Hill 262-4
First Ebenezer Baptist currency 20 Eau Claire 598
Captiva Island 501-2
Church 399 customs regulations 642-3 Edgar Allan Poe National
car travel 651, 653-5, see
Full Gospel Tabernacle Cutchogue 127 Historic Site 157-8
also scenic drives
Church 369 cycling, see bicycling Edisto Island 361
Carrboro 345-6
Old North Church 178 Edmund Pettus Bridge
Cash, Johnny 376
St Andrew’s Dune Church 417-18
cathedrals, see churches &
cathedrals
125-6 D electricity 643
St John’s Episcopal Dahlonega 405 Ellis Island 61
Catskills 13, 132-5, 13 Church 310 dangers, see safety embassies 643
caves 315, 331, 394, 430, St Louis Cathedral 434 Daniel Boone National Emerald Mound 424
558, 330-1 St Patrick’s Cathedral Forest 393-4 emergencies 21
CBD 22 77 Dardanelle 429 Empire State Building 71-3
cell phones 646-7 Thorncrown Chapel 431 Dartmouth College 240 Empire State Plaza 138
cemeteries 299, 310-11, Trinity Church (Boston) Dayton 568
408, 439 Endless Bridge 603
182-3 Daytona Beach 490-1 Erie Islands 564-5
Central Park 79, 84-5, 80-1, Trinity Church (New York Dean, James 555
84-5, 84-5 City) 65 Essex 218-19
Dearborn 579-80 etiquette 53, 642
Chapel Hill 345-6 Washington National
deer 639 Eunice 450-1
Charleston 356-61 Cathedral 267
DeLand 511 Eureka Springs 431-2
Charleston County Sea Churchill Downs 387
Delaware 293-8 events 30-4, see also
Islands 361-2 Cincinnati 568-71
Delaware Water Gap 147 individual events,
Charlevoix 587 cinema 622, 631-2
Detroit 12, 572-9, 574, 12 locations
662
Everglades 478-9 Fort Mackinac 588 Hanover 240 Elms, the 211
Everglades City 481-2 Fort Macon 340 Harbor Country 585 Embassy Row 266
Everglades National Park 11, Franconia Notch 237-8 Harpers Ferry 323-4 Empire State Building
331, 478-9, 2, 11 Franklin 377 Hartford 214-16 71-3
exchange rates 21 Franklin, Benjamin 155 Harvard University 183 Faneuil Hall 175, 178
Exorcist Stairs 267 Frederick 292-3 Hatteras Island 333 Flatiron Building 70
Fredericksburg 302-4 health 643-4 Fort Raleigh National
Historic Site 336
I N D E X E - H

Freedom Trail 184, 185 heat exhaustion 644


F Front Royal 315-16 Hemingway, Ernest 486, Fort Sumter National
Fairmount 555 Monument 357
Funks Grove 551 487, 587
Falmouth 194-5 Franklin D Roosevelt
High Country 349-51
family travel, see children, Home 131
hiking 46, see also walks
travel with G Fredericksburg &
Abingdon 321 Spotsylvania National
Fayetteville 328-9 Galax 322 Appalachian Trail 19, 47, Military Park 303
Fenway Park 183 Galena 549-50 316, 19 Graycliff Estate 143
festivals 30-4, 50, see also galleries, see art museums
individual festivals, Big Bluff 432 Hildene 224
& galleries
locations Blackwater Falls State Historic RCA Studio B
gardens, see parks & Park 325
Fifth Avenue 77 gardens 376
films 622, 631-2 Blue Ridge Pkwy 320 Independence Hall 153
Gatlinburg 385-6
Finger Lakes 135-7 C&O Canal National Lincoln Home National
gay travelers, see LGBTIQ+ Historic Park 293
Fire Island National travelers Historic Site 550
Seashore 124 Crawford Notch State Little Rock Central High
Gemini Giant 551 Park 238
fish 640 School 426
geography 636 Franconia Notch State
Flatiron Building 70 Martin House Complex
Georgetown 245 Park 238 142-3
Florida 58, 452-515, 454-5 Georgetown University 267 Great Smoky Mountains Martin Luther King Jr
accommodations 452 Georgia 394-414 National Park 354 Birthplace 398-9, 15
climate 452 giardiasis 644 Monongahela National Martin Luther King Jr
food 452 Gold Coast 14, 583-7, 14 Forest 325 National Historic
highlights 454-5 Golden Isles 412-14 Monument Mountain 205 Site 398
travel seasons 452 Graceland 367 Mt Magazine State Maryland State House
Florida City 479-80 Park 429 287
Grand Haven 583, 14
Florida Hwy 1 44-5 Mt Nebo State Park 429 Monticello 312
Grand Ole Opry 376, 380, 17 New River Gorge National
Florida Keys 17, 482-8 Montpelier 313
Grand Rapids 581-3 River 327
Florida Panhandle 511-15 Mount Vernon 300
Grandfather Mountain Petit Jean State Park 429
Floyd 321-2 New York State Capitol
349-50 Shenandoah National 138
Flume Gorge 238, 14 Great Barrington 205-6 Park 316 Old Exchange & Provost
folk music 634 Great Lakes 58, 516-614, Sleeping Bear Dunes Dungeon 356
food 26, 50-3, see also 518-19 ­National Lakeshore 585 Old South Meeting
individual locations accommodations 516 Superior Hiking Trail 612 House 175
barbecue 51 climate 516 Tamiami Trail 480-1 Old State House 1­ 75
cooking classes 53 food 51-2, 516 Tuckerman Ravine 239 Parthenon 376
costs 52 highlights 518 Hilton Head 362-3 Pentagon 299
etiquette 53 itineraries 535 hip-hop music 635 Petersen House 265
festivals 50 travel seasons 516 historic buildings & sites Pope-Leighey House 300
fish fry 593 Great River Road 40-1 Audubon State Historic Radio City Music Hall 77
Philadelphia ­ Great Smoky Mountains Site 447 Robie House 529
cheesesteak 51, 162, 2 National Park 13, 23, Battleship North C ­ arolina Rockefeller Center 73, 76
pizza 539 331, 354-5, 13, 330 341
Rough Point 211
seafood 50-1, 288, 53 Green Bay 598-9 Big Pink 135
Supreme Court 263
supper clubs 593 Green County 595 Biltmore Estate 351
Ulysses S Grant Home
vegetarian & vegan Greenbrier Valley 327-9 Breakers, the 211 549
travelers 52 Greenport 127-8 Cahokia Mounds State US Capitol 262-3
football 628-9 Greenville 365-6 Historic Site 552
Vicksburg National
Fort Lauderdale 470-4 Gulf Coast 425 Carillon Historical Park Military Park 422
forts 568
Gulf Islands National Virginia State Capitol 310
Castillo de San Marcos Seashore 514 Chrysler Building 76
Washington Irving’s
National Monument 492 Gullah culture 358 Colonial Michilimackinac Sunnyside 130
Fort Adams 211 588
White House 264
Dana Thomas House 550
Winterthur 296
H Dexter Avenue ­Parsonage
Wormsloe Historic Site
Map Pages 000 Hamptons, the 125-6 416
408
Photo Pages 000 hang-gliding 337, 15 Ellwood Manor 302-3
Historic Triangle 304-7
66 3
history 28, 616-25, see also jazz 633-4 Lenox 206-7 Louisiana 432-51
Civil Rights movement Jekyll Island 413-14 lesbian travelers, see Louisiana floods 637
Boston Tea Party 182, 617 Jersey Shore 148-53 LGBTIQ+ travelers Louisiana Purchase 619
British colonialism 617-18 Johns Hopkins University Lewes 294 Louisville 387-90
Civil War 301, 619-20 284 Lexington (Kentucky) 391-2 Lowcountry 361-3
Great Depression 620 Lexington (New England) Lower Hudson Valley
Louisiana Purchase 619 192 129-30
K Lexington (Shenandoah

I N D E X H - M
Native Americans 262, Lower Keys 485
616, 617, 619 Kancamagus Hwy 236 Valley) 317-19 Luray 315-16
Obama presidency 622-4 kayaking & canoeing 47 LGBTIQ+ travelers 645 Lyme disease 644
prehistoric cultures 616 Amelia Island 495-6 Atlanta 403
Revolutionary War 618 Apostle Islands 601 Boston 189
slavery 619-20 Boundary Waters 613 Chicago 545 M
Trump presidency 624-5 Buffalo National River Fort Lauderdale 473 Mackinac Island 588
432 Miami 469 Mackinaw City 588
Vietnam War 621-2
Charlotte 347 Minneapolis 606 Mad River Valley 226-7
World War II 620-1
Chicago 531-2 New Orleans 444 Madison 596-7
hitchhiking 655
Cincinnati 569 Washington, DC 277 Maine 240-9, 242
Hoboken 146
Clarksdale 421 Mammoth Cave National
holidays 646 Liberty Bell Center 155, 12
Everglades 480, 481 Park 331, 394, 330-1
Homestead 479-80 libraries
Key Largo 483 Mamou 450
Hopewell people 572 Boston Public Library 183
Lexington 318 Manassas National
horseback riding 391, 472 Folger Shakespeare
Little Rock 426 Library 264 ­Battlefield Park 301
horses 391
Logan 571-2 Latter Library 435 manatees 497-8, 640
hostels 24
Ocracoke Island 339 Library of Congress 263 Manchester 232-3
Hot Springs 427-8
Pictured Rocks National New York Public Library Manitou Islands 585
hotels 24 Lakeshore 589 73 Manteo 333
Hudson Valley 129-32 St Simons Island 412 Newberry Library 527 Marathon 484-5
Hudson Yards 23 Tarpon Bay 502 Providence Athenaeum Mardi Gras 31, 439
Huntsville 415 Kelleys Island 564-5 209 markets
hurricanes 637 Kentucky 16, 386-94 Woodrow Wilson Ann Arbor 580
Hyannis 195-6 Kentucky Derby 389 ­Presidential Library Boston 190-1
Keweenaw Peninsula 590 317
Burlington 229-30
lighthouses
I Key Largo 482-3 Chatham 197-8
ice skating 89, 155, 531 Key West 485-8 Bodie Island Lighthouse
Chicago 528
Kiawah Island 361 336
Illinois 517-52 Detroit 573
Kidron 565 Cape Hatteras
immigration 626, 649 ­Lighthouse 337 Madison 596
Independence Day 33 Kill Devil Hills 333 New Orleans 438
Cape May Lighthouse 152
Indiana 552-60 Killington 226 New York City 67-8,
Fire Island Lighthouse 124
Indiana Dunes 558-9 King, BB 421 71, 100
Horton Point Lighthouse
Indiana University 556 King, Martin Luther Jr 15, 128 Marquette 590
Indianapolis 552-5 255, 367, 398-9, 416 Martha’s Vineyard
Montauk Lighthouse 127
Indianola 421 Kinzua Bridge Skywalk 165-6 202-3, 197
Ocracoke Lighthouse 339
inns 24 kiteboarding 337 Martin Luther King Jr
Portland Head Light 243
Institute Woods 146-7 Kitty Hawk 333 Birthplace 15, 398-9, 15
Rockland Breakwater
insurance 643-4, 654 Knoxville 384-5 Lighthouse 246 Martin Luther King Jr
internet access 25, 644 Sandy Hook 150 ­National Historic Site
398
internet resources 21, 23, L Saugerties Lighthouse 135
Maryland 280-93
56, 628, 645 Lafayette 448-9 Split Rock Lighthouse 612
Mashomack Nature
Islamorada 483-4, 17 Lake George 139-40 Lincoln (New England) 237 Preserve 128
Isle of Palms 361 Lake Martin 450 Lincoln, Abraham 251, Massachusetts 171-208
Isle Royale 639 Lake of the Clouds 591 550, 558
Massachusetts Institute of
Ithaca 136-7 Lake Placid 140-1 Lincoln Center 83 Technology 185
itineraries 35-8, see also Lake Pontchartrain 446 Lincoln Hwy 41-3 Massachusetts State
individual locations Lakes Region 234 Lincoln Memorial 251, 9 House 174
Lake Superior 611 Litchfield Hills 216-17 Mayflower II 194
literature 630-1, 632 medical services 644
J Lancaster County 164, 16
Jackson 422-3 languages 20 Little Rock 425-7 memorials, see monuments
lobsters 50-1, 53 & memorials
Jacksonville 493-5 Lansing 580-1
James Island 361 Leesburg 303 Logan 571-2 Memphis 366-73, 368, 370
Jamesport 127 legal matters 644-5 Long Island 123-9 Mercer-Williams House
Lookout Mountain 383 408, 27
Jamestown 305-6 lemurs 344
66 4
Miami 13, 22, 453-70, 458, Jefferson Memorial 258-9 Automotive Hall of Ford Rouge Factory Tour
460, 13, 42 Kunta Kinte-Alex Haley Fame 579 579-80
accommodations 466-7 Memorial 287 Backstreet Cultural Ford’s Theatre Center
activities 463-5 Lincoln Memorial 251, 9 Museum 434-5 for Education &
BB King Museum & Delta ­Leadership 265
children, travel with 463 Lost at Sea Memorial 127
Interpretive Center 421 Fort William Henry
drinking & nightlife 468-9 Martin Luther King Jr Museum 139
Memorial 255 Benjamin Franklin
entertainment 469-70 Museum 155 Frank Lloyd Wright Home
National Memorial for
I N D E X M

festivals & events 465-6 Birmingham Civil Rights & Studio 548
food 467-8 Peace & Justice 416-17
Institute 414 Franklin D Roosevelt
history 453 National September 11 Home 131
Memorial 65 Bennington Museum 224
itineraries 457 Boston Tea Party Ships & Freedom House Museum
National WWII Memorial 300-1
LGBTIQ+ travelers 469 259 Museum 182, 18
safety 470 Brooklyn Museum 87 Freer | Sackler 262
Pilgrim Monument 199
sights 453-63 Busy Beaver Button Gerald R Ford Museum
Stonewall National 581
tourist offices 470 Monument 69 Museum 529
tours 465 Cabildo 434 Gilmore Car Museum
Strawberry Fields 83 579
travel to/from 470 Vietnam Veterans Carnegie Museum of
Natural History 167 Gold Coast Railroad
travel within 470 ­Memorial 254-5 Museum 463
walking tour 464, 464 Washington Monument Center for Civil & Human
Rights 394-5 Grand Ole Opry House
Michigan 572-91 (Baltimore) 283
Center for PostNatural 376, 380, 17
Middleburg 303 Washington Monument
(Washington, DC) 255 History 167 Graveyard of the Atlantic
Millersburg 565 Center for Puppetry Museum 337
Wright Brothers National
Milwaukee 591-4 Memorial 336 Arts 395 Great Lakes Science
Minneapolis 602-8, 604-5 Charleston Museum 357 Center 561
moose 636-7, 639
Minnesota 602-14 Chatham Shark Center Greenfield Village 579
Morehead City 340
Minute Man National 196-7 Gulf Coast Exploreum
Morrilton 429 418-19
Historic Park 192 Chicago Architecture
motels 24 Hammond Harwood
Mississippi 419-25 Center 521
motorcycle travel 651, 653-5 House 287
Mississippi Delta 420-2 Chicago Children’s
Mount Desert Island 248 Museum 532 Harley-Davidson Museum
Mitchell, Margaret 398
Mount Vernon 300 Chicago History Museum 592
Mobile 418-19
Mountain View 430-1 528 Harriet Beecher Stowe
mobile phones 646-7 Center 215
Mt Airy 292-3 Children’s Museum of
Mohonk Preserve 130 Hemingway House 486
Mt Baldhead 584 Indianapolis 553
monasteries 135 Henry Ford Museum 579
Mt Monadnock 233 Concord Museum 193
money 20, 21, 24, 52, 54, Historic New Orleans
Mt Tremper 133-4 Connecticut Science
643, 645-6 Collection 434
Mt Washington 238, 239 Center 215
Monongahela Incline 166 Historic Tredegar 310
Mummers Parade 30, COSI 566
Monongahela National Historic Village at Allaire
158-9, 31 Country Music Hall of
Forest 325-7 148
museums 27, see also art Fame & Museum 375
Montauk 126-7 HistoryMiami 457
museums & galleries, Delta Blues Museum 421
Montgomery 416-17 sports museums Illinois Holocaust
Driehaus Museum 526
Montpelier 227-8 4-H Tidelands Nature Museum 548
Dumbarton Oaks 267
monuments & memorials Center 413 Immigration Museum 61
DuSable Museum of
African American Civil Acadian Village 448 African American International Spy
War Memorial 265-6 Adler Planetarium 523 History 529 Museum 265
Bennington Battle Air Mobility Command East Hampton Town James Monroe Museum
Monument 223-4 Museum 297 Marine Museum 125 & Memorial Library
Bunker Hill Monument Emily Dickinson Museum 303
Amazing World of Dr
179 Seuss 204 205 Jewish Museum 78-9
Civil Rights Memorial American Black Empire State Railway John Dickinson
Center 417 ­Holocaust Museum Museum 133 ­Plantation 297
Fort McHenry National 592 Eudora Welty House John F Kennedy Hyannis
Monument & Historic American Civil War 423 Museum 195
Shrine 283 ­Museum – ­Appomattox Johnny Cash Museum &
Evergreen Museum 284
Franklin Delano ­Roosevelt 315 Store 376
Fernbank Museum of
Memorial 262 American Museum of Kennedy Space Center
Natural History 395
George Washington Natural History 82-3 488
Field Museum of Natural
Masonic National American Revolution Kurt Vonnegut Museum
Memorial 301 History 523, 10
Museum at Yorktown & Library 553
Flagler Museum 474
306 Landis Valley Museum 165
Florida Keys History of
Art Deco Museum 456 Diving Museum 484 Levine Museum of the
Map Pages 000 Auburn Cord D ­ uesenberg New South 347
Ford Piquette Avenue
Photo Pages 000 Museum 560 Plant 575 Lightner Museum 492
66 5
Lincoln Presidential National Civil Rights Peabody Essex Museum USS Alabama 418
Library & Museum 550 Museum 367 193 USS Constitution
Little Traverse History National Geographic Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum 179
Museum 587 Museum 266 Museum 532 Vermilionville 448
Louisiana Children’s National Great Blacks in Penn Center 363 Villa Zorayda Museum
Museum 435 Wax Museum 282 Plimoth Plantation 193-4 492
Lower East Side National Museum of Poe Museum 310 Vizcaya Museum &
­Tenement Museum 69 ­African American Pollock-Krasner House Gardens 462

I N D E X M - N
Lower Mississippi River ­History & Culture 255 125 White House Visitor
Museum 422 National Museum of Port Discovery 282 Center 264
Lowndes County American History 258 William J Clinton
Prairie Acadian Cultural
­Interpretive Center 418 National Museum of Civil Center 451 ­Presidential Center
Maine Maritime Museum War Medicine 292 426
Railroad Museum of
245 National Museum of Pennsylvania 164 Willie Dixon’s Blues
Margaret Mitchell House ­Natural History 255, Heaven 527
258 RE Olds Transportation
& Museum 398 Museum 579 Willie Nelson & Friends
Mark Twain House & National Museum of the Museum Showcase
American Indian 262 Ripley’s Believe it or Not!
Museum 215 150-1 376-7
Martin Luther King Jr National Museum of the Women’s Rights
US Air Force 568 River Road African
National Historic ­American Museum 447 National Historical
Site 398 National Mustard Park 137
Museum 596 Rock & Roll Hall of Fame
Maryland Historical & Museum 561 World of Coca-Cola 395
Society 283 National Naval Aviation Wright Museum 235
Museum 514 Sag Harbor Whaling &
Maryland Science Center Historical Museum 125 Ybor City Museum State
282 National Railroad Park 497
Museum 599 Scott & Zelda Fitzgerald
Memphis Rock ’n’ Soul Museum 417 music 43, 321, 578, 633-5
Museum 367 National September 11 Muskegon 584
Memorial Museum 65 Selma Interpretive
Met Cloisters 83 Center 418 Myrtle Beach 363-5
Mexican Cultural National Toy Train
Museum 164-5 Shaker Village of Mystic 217-18
­Institute 266 ­Pleasant Hill 393
Miami Children’s National Underground
Railroad Freedom Shelburne Museum 230
Museum 463
Center 569 Shore Line Trolley N
Millyard Museum 232 Museum 220 Nags Head 333, 15
Mint Museum Randolph National Women’s Hall of
Fame 137 Slave Haven U ­ nderground Nantucket 200-2, 197
347 Railroad Museum/
National WWII Museum Naples 502-4
Mississippi Civil Rights Burkle Estate 369
Museum 422 439 NASCAR Racing E­ xperience
Nauticus 307 Songbirds 382-3 490
Motown Historical South Florida Science
Museum 575 Naval Station Norfolk Nashville (Indiana) 556-7
307 Center & Aquarium Nashville (Tennessee) 17,
Muhammad Ali Center 476
387 New York State Museum 373-82, 374-5
138 Southampton History
Museum of Art & History Museum 125 Natchez 424-5
at the Custom House Newseum 265 Natchez Trace Pkwy 43-4,
Spam Museum 609
485 North Carolina Maritime 424
Museum 340 Stax Museum of
Museum of Discovery & ­American Soul Music national & state parks 26,
Science 471 North Carolina Museum 367 48, 331, 638, see also
Museum of Mississippi of History 343 parks & gardens
Steven F Udvar-Hazy
History 423 North Carolina Museum Center 254 Acadia National Park 10,
Museum of Science 178 of Natural Sciences 247-8, 331, 10, 330
343 Strawbery Banke
Museum of Science & Museum 233 Appomattox Court House
Industry 529 O. Winston Link Museum National Historic
319-20 Studebaker National
Museum of the American Park 314
Museum 560
Revolution 154 Ocean City Life-Saving Assateague State Park
Station Museum 290 Tallahassee Automobile
Museum of the Bizarre 290
& Collectibles Museum
341 Old Fort Niagara 145 511-12 Bahia Honda State
Museum of the Old Rhinebeck Park 485
Tallahassee Museum 511
­Everglades 481 ­Aerodrome 132 Barataria Preserve 446
Telfair Academy 408
Mütter Museum 154-5 Old Slave Mart Museum Berkeley Springs State
356 Tennessee State Museum
Mystic Seaport Museum Park 324-5
376
217 Osborn-Jackson House Bill Baggs Cape Florida
125 Titanic Museum 386
Nantucket Whaling State Park 463
Oscar Getz Museum of Titanic: the Artifact
Museum 201 Biscayne National Park
Whiskey History 388 Exhibition 505
National Air & Space 479
Parris Island Museum Tudor Place 267
Museum 251, 254, 27 Blackwater Falls State
363 United States Holocaust Park 325
National Archives 264-5 Memorial Museum 263
Patricia & Phillip Frost Brandywine Creek State
National Automotive & US Space & Rocket
Museum of Science 459 Park 296
Truck Museum 560 Center 415
666
national & state parks Kelleys Islands State New England 57, 170-249, 82, 94-5, 103-4, 110,
continued Park 564-5 172-3 119, 80-1
Canaveral National Lake Dardanelle State accommodations 170 Upper Manhattan 83, 86,
Seashore 489 Park 429 climate 170 105, 111, 120
Cape Henlopen State Leonard Harrison State food 50-1, 170 Upper West Side 82-3,
Park 294 Park 165 95, 104-5, 110-11,
highlights 172-3
Cape May Point State Mammoth Cave National ­119-20, 80-1
history 171
Park 152 Park 331, 394, 330-1 walking tour 90, 90
I N D E X N - P

Cherry Springs State travel seasons 170


Marsh-Billings-­ West Village 65, 67-9, 92-3,
Park 165 Rockefeller National New Hampshire 232-40, 223
98-9, 108-9, 117, 70-1
Chicot State Park 450-1 Historical Park 225 New Haven 219-21
New York State 57, 123-45,
C&O Canal National Minute Man National New Jersey 57, 145-53, 62-3
Historic Park 192 62-3
Historic Park 293 New London 218
Montauk Point State Newport 211-13
Colt State Park 214 New Orleans 11, 433-46,
Congaree National Park Park 127 Niagara Falls 18, 144-5, 18
436-7, 440, 11
364 Mt Magazine State nightlife 28
New Paltz 130-1
Crawford Notch State Park 429 Norfolk 307-8
Mt Monadnock State New River 327-9, 19
Park 238 North Adams 207
Park 233 New River Gorge National
Cumberland Falls State North Carolina 333-55
Mt Nebo State Park 429 River 327-8
Resort Park 393 North Carolina Mountains
Natural Bridge State New York City 9, 23, ­57,
Cuyahoga Valley National 348-54
Park 563 Park 318 ­61-123, 64, 74-5, 8-9
North Fork 127-8
Dry Tortugas National Natural Bridge State accommodations 91-6
North Shore 611-13
Park 49 Resort Park 394 activities 88-90
North Woodstock 237
Everglades National Park Newport State Park 600 Bronx, the 88, 112-13, 121
Northampton 203-4
11, 331, 478-9, 2, 11 Ozark Folk Center State Brooklyn 86-8, 95-6,
Fakahatchee Strand Park 430 105-7, 111-12, 120-1
Preserve 480 Petit Jean State Park Chelsea 65, 67-9, 92-3, O
Fort Adams State Park 429 98-9, 108-9, 117, 74-5 Oak Park 548
211 Porcupine Mountains Chinatown 65, 92, 97-8, Obama, Barack 531, 622-4
Fort Clinch State Park Wilderness State 108, 117, 66-7 Ocean City 290-1
495 Park 591 drinking & nightlife 107-13 Ocean Grove 148-9
Fort Macon State Park 340 Robert H Treman State East Village 69-70, 93, 99-
Park 136 Ocracoke Island 339-40
Franconia Notch State 101, 109, 117-18, 70-1
Robert Moses State Ogunquit 241
Park 237-8 entertainment 113-16
Park 124 Ohio 560-72
Grafton Notch State festivals & events 91
Park 249 Shenandoah National Ohio River 558
Park 316, 331, 331 Financial District 61, 91-2, Old Cahawba
Great Smoky Mountains 96-7, 107-8, 116-17
National Park 13, 23, Split Rock Lighthouse ­Archaeological Park 418
State Park 612 food 50, 96-107 Old North Bridge 192-3
331, 354-5, 13, 330
Stonewall National Gramercy 70-1, 93, 101-2, One World Observatory
Hammonasset Beach 109-10, 118
State Park 219 Monument 69 61, 65
Table Rock State Park Harlem 83, 86, 95, 105, Opelousas 450-1
Hawks Nest State Park 111, 120
328 365 opening hours 646
Unicoi State Park 407 Lower East Side 69-70,
Hocking Hills State 93, 99-101, 109, 117-18 Orlando 504-6, 508
Park 571 Vogel State Park 407 Outer Banks 14, 333, 336-9
Lower Manhattan 61, 65,
Hopewell Culture Voyageurs National Park 91-2, 96-7, 107-8, Oxford 419-20
National Historical 613-14
Park 572 116-17, 66-7 Ozark Mountains 430-2
Whirlpool State Park 145
Hot Springs National Meatpacking District
White River State Park 65, 67-9, 92-3, 98-9,
Park 427 553 P
108-9, 117
Hunting Island State Windley Key Fossil Reef painting 630
Park 363 Midtown 71-3, 76-8, 93-4,
Geological State Paisley Park 603
102-3, 110, 118-19, 74-5
Indiana Dunes National Site 484
Queens 88, 112, 121 Palm Beach 474-7
Park 559 National Archives 264-5
safety 121 panthers 638
Island Beach State Park National Cherry Blossom
149-50 shopping 116-21 Paris 429
Festival 31, 269, 31
Isle Royale National sights 61-88 parks & gardens, see also
National Mall 9, 251, 254-5, national & state parks
Park 590 SoHo 65, 92, 97-8, 108, 117
258-62, 260-1, 9, Airlie Gardens 341
Jamaica State Park 48 260-1 tourist offices 121
John Pennekamp Coral tours 89 Atlanta Botanical Garden
National September 11 395
Reef State Park 483 Memorial 65 travel to/from 121-3
Battery & White Point
Native Americans 262, 616, travel within 123 Garden 356
617, 619 Union Square 70-1, 93, Belle Isle Park 573
Map Pages 000 natural disasters 637 101-2, 109-10, 118
Brookgreen Gardens
Photo Pages 000 Navy Pier 523, 5 Upper East Side 78-9, 364
66 7
Brooklyn Botanic State Botanical Garden plants 636 Savannah 408-12, 410
Garden 87 of Georgia 406 Plymouth 193-4 scenic drives 39-45, 41
Brooklyn Bridge Park 86 Tompkins Square Park 70 podcasts 23 Acadia National Park 248
Bryant Park 77 Vulcan Park 414-15 population 23, 626-7 Blue Ridge Pkwy 16,
Campus Martius Park Washington Square Park Portland 241, 243-5 39-40, 320, 349, 16
573, 12 68-9 Portsmouth 233-4 Brockway Mountain
Cave Point County Park Parton, Dolly 385 postal services 646 Drive 590
599-600 passports 647, 649

I N D E X P - S
Poughkeepsie 131-2 Crooked Road 321
Central Park 79, 84-5, Peaks of Otter 320 Florida Hwy 1 44-5
Presley, Elvis 367, 369, 634
80-1, 84-5, 84-5 Peanut Island 476 Foothills Pkwy 354
Prince 603
Chimney Rock Park 351 Pelee Island 565 Great River Road 40-1
Princeton 146-7
City Park (New Orleans) Pennsylvania 57, 153-69, Highland Scenic Hwy 326
Princeton University 147
435 62-3 Providence 209-11 Hwy 13 601
Coolidge Park 383 Pennsylvania Dutch
Provincetown 198-200 Hwy 61 612
Cornell Botanic Gardens ­Country 16, 164-5, 16
136 public holidays 646 Kancamagus Hwy 236
Pennsylvania Wilds 165-6 Lincoln Hwy 41-3
Crescent Park 438 Pensacola 513-15
Dumbarton Oaks 267 Mt Magazine Scenic
Pentagon 299 Q Byway 429
Fairchild Tropical Garden Petoskey 587 Quechee 225-6
462 Mt Washington Auto
Philadelphia 12, 153-64, Road 239
Forsyth Park 408
156-7, 160, 12 Natchez Trace Pkwy
Fort Williams Park 243
Phippsburg 245
R 43-4, 424
Frederik Meijer Gardens Racine 595
Phoenicia 133-4 Pensacola Scenic Bluffs
& Sculpture Park 581 Radio City Music Hall 77 Hwy 514
Garvan Woodland phonecards 647
rafting 47-8, 327, 328, 347, Skyline Dr 316
Gardens 428 Pictured Rocks National 429, 19
Lakeshore 589 Whiteface Veteran’s
Georgetown Waterfront railways 133, 219, 238, 563 ­Memorial Hwy 140
Park 267 Piedmont, the 309-15
Raleigh 343-4 sea turtles 413, 489, 639
High Line 65, 67 Pigeon Forge 385-6
Red Cliff 601 seafood 50-1, 288, 53
Hudson River Park 68 Pinkham Notch 239-40
Rehoboth Beach 295 Seaside Heights 149
Ijams Nature Center 384 Pioneer Valley 203-5
religion 626-7 Selma 417-18
Independence National Pittsburgh 166-9
resorts 24 Seneca Falls 137
Historical Park 153-4 planning
Rhinebeck 132 Seneca Rocks 325
Kentucky Horse Park 391 accommodations 24-5
Rhode Island 208-14 senior travelers 643
Lake Leatherwood City activities 46-9
Park 431 Richmond 310-12 Serpent Mound 572
budgeting 21
LeFrak Center at ridesharing 655 Shelburne Farms 229
calendar of events 30-4
­Lakeside 89 road trips, see scenic drives Shelter Island 127-8
Eastern USA basics 20-1
Lincoln Park 528 Roanoke 319-20, 618 Shenandoah Valley 315-19
Eastern USA’s regions
Louis Armstrong Park 435 57-8 Roanoke Island 333 Singer Castle 141-2
Madison Square Park 70-1 family travel 54-6 rock climbing 130, 325 skating 465
Mary Ann Brown food 50-3 rock music 367, 561, 634-5 skiing 49
­Preserve 447 internet resources 21 Rockefeller Center 73, 76 Belleayre Mountain 133
Máximo Gómez Park 461 itineraries 35-8 Rockland 246-7 Hunter Mountain 134
Millennium Park 521 repeat visitors 22-3 Rockwell, Norman 206 Killington Resort 226
Minneapolis Sculpture Route 66 45, 521, 551
road trips 39-45, 41 Mad River Glen 226
Garden 603 Rowan Oak 420
travel seasons 20, 30, 31, Porcupine Mountain Ski
Naples Botanical Russellville 429 Area 591
32, 33, 34
­Gardens 503
plantations Snowshoe Mountain
National Gallery of Art Resort 326
Sculpture Garden 255 Berkeley Plantation 306 S
Boone Hall Plantation 358 safety 654-5 Stowe 226, 228, 49
New York Botanical
Garden 88 Drayton Hall 357 Sag Harbor 125 Voyageurs National
Historic Stagville Park 614
Northerly Island 523 Salem 193
­Plantation 344 Sleeping Bear Dunes
Olbrich Botanical Sandwich 194
Laura Plantation 446-7 National Lakeshore
Gardens 596 Sandy Hook Gateway 585-6
Piedmont Park 398 Magnolia Plantation 357 National Recreation Sloss Furnaces 414
Prospect Park 86 McLeod Plantation 361 Area 150
Smith College 204
Public Garden (Boston) Middleton Place 357 Sanibel Island 501-2
Smith Island 281
174 Monticello 312 Saranac Lake 140
Smithsonian Castle 262
Rose Kennedy Montpelier 313 Sarasota 500-1
Greenway 175 smoking 642, 646
Myrtles Plantation 447 Saugatuck 584-5
Shelby Farms Park 369 Smugglers Notch 228
Oakley Plantation 447 Saugerties 135
Shofuso Japanese House snakes 639-40
Shirley Plantation 306 Sault Ste Marie 589
& Garden 155 snorkeling 479
Whitney Plantation 446
66 8
snowmobiling 614 T volunteering 648 wildlife 636-40
soft drinks 53 Taliesin 597 Vonnegut, Kurt 553 wildlife reserves
South Bend 559-60 Tallahassee 511-13 Bombay Hook National
South Carolina 355-66 Wildlife Refuge 297
Tallulah Gorge 407 W Chincoteague National
South Shore 124-5 Tamiami Trail 480-1 walks, see also hiking
South, the 58, 332-451, Wildlife Refuge 290
Tampa 497-9 Birmingham Civil Rights
334-5 Cypress Creek National
Tanglewood Music Festival Memorial Trail 415 Wildlife Refuge 552
I N D E X S -Z

accommodations 332 206 Boston 184, 184 Duke Lemur Center 344
climate 332 Tannersville 134
Chicago 530, 530 Everglades Outpost
food 51, 332 taxes 646 479-80
Cliff Walk 212
highlights 334-5 taxis 655 Georgia Sea Turtle
Cotton Valley Rail Trail
itineraries 337 telephone services 646-7 235 Center 413
travel seasons 332 Tennessee 366-86 Miami 464, 464 JN ‘Ding’ Darling National
Space Coast 488-90 theater 28-9, 631 Wildlife Refuge 502
New Orleans 440, 440
Sperryville 303 theme parks, see Laura Quinn Wild Bird
­amusement & New River Gorge National
sports 628-9 Sanctuary 483
­waterparks River 328
sports museums Louisiana Universities
Thousand Islands 141-2 Walt Disney World® Resort
Carolina Basketball ­Marine Consortium 450
19, 506-8, 19
Museum 346 time 647 Manatee Viewing Center
Washington, DC 23, 58, 497-8
Chicago Sports Museum Times Square 73
251-80, 256-7 Merritt Island National
527-8 tipping 121, 646
accommodations 269-71 Wildlife Refuge 488-9
College Football Hall of toilets 647
Fame 395 activities 268 Okefenokee National
Top of the Rock 77-8
Green Bay Packers Hall drinking & nightlife 275-8 Wildlife Refuge 47
tourist information 647
of Fame 599 entertainment 278-9 Pea Island National
train travel 651, 655 Wildlife Refuge 336
Indianapolis Motor festivals & events 269
travel to/from Canada 650 Wildwood 151-2
Speedway 553 food 271-5
travel to/from Eastern USA Williamsburg 304-5
Kentucky Derby Museum 649-51 history 251
387 itineraries 254 Williamstown 207-8
travel within Eastern USA
Louisville Slugger 21, 651-5 LGBTIQ+ travelers 277 Willis Tower 521
­Museum & Factory 387 Wilmington (Delaware) 296
Traverse City 586 sights 9, 251-68
NASCAR Hall of Fame Wilmington (North
trekking, see hiking tourist offices 279
347 ­Carolina) 341-2
Triangle, the 342-6 tours 268-9
National Sporting Wingspread 595
Museum 303 Tri-Peaks Region 428-30 travel to/from 279-80
travel within 280 Wisconsin 591-602
Women’s Basketball Hall Tuckerman Ravine 239
Washington & Lee Wolfeboro 235-6
of Fame 384 TV 631-2
­University 318 wolves 639
Spring Green 597
water, drinking 644 women travelers 648
Springfield (Illinois) 550-1
U water parks, see Woodstock (New York
Springfield ­(Massachusetts) Universal Orlando Resort
204 ­amusement & water State) 134-5, 13
508-11 parks Woodstock (Vermont) 225-6
St Augustine 491-3 University of North C­ arolina waterfalls Woodstock Festival 621, 622
St Francisville 447-8 345
Amicalola Falls 405 work 648
St Helena Island 358 University of Virginia 312-13
Arethusa Falls 238 WWII 620-1
St Paul 608-9 Upcountry 365-6
Kaaterskill Falls 134 Wright brothers 336
St Petersburg 499-500 Upper Peninsula 588-91
St Simons Island 412 Niagara Falls 18, 144-5, 18 Wright, Frank Lloyd
US Capitol 262-3
Statue of Liberty 61 Sabbaday Falls 236 architecture 300, 529,
US Naval Academy 287 550, 595
Staunton 316-17 WaterFire 209-10
USS Constitution 179 homes 548, 597
Stillwater 609 weather 20, 30, 31, 32, 33,
34, see also individual trails 549
Stockbridge 206
V regions Wrigley Field 528
Stowe 226, 228-9, 49 vacations 646 websites, see internet
Straits of Mackinac 587-8 vaccinations 644 resources
Sugarcreek 565 Weedon Island Preserve 499 Y
vegetarian & vegan Yale University 219
Sullivan’s Island 361 travelers 52 Weirs Beach 234-5
Sun Studio 367 Yankee Stadium 88
Vermont 221-32, 223 Wellfleet 198
Sunken Forest 124 Yellow Springs 567-8
Vicksburg 422 Welty, Eudora 423
Super Bowl 629 Yorktown 306-7
Ville Platte 450 West Nile Virus 644
surfing 48, 126, 465 vineyards 216, 309, 405, 586 West Palm Beach 476-7
Virginia 298-322 West Virginia 19, 322-9 Z
Virginia Beach 308-9 whales 199, 620, 640 Zika virus 644
Map Pages 000 Virginia Military Institute 318 White House 264 zoos 79, 88, 267-8, 282,
Photo Pages 000 White Mountains 14, 236-40 463, 602
visas 647-8
Whiteface Mountain 140
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
669

Map Legend
Sights Information Routes
Beach Bank Tollway
Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway
Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary
Castle/Palace Internet Secondary
Christian Police Tertiary
Confucian Post Office Lane
Hindu Telephone Unsealed road
Islamic Toilet Road under construction
Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall
Jewish Other Information Steps
Monument Tunnel
Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass
Ruin Beach Walking Tour
Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour
Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail
Taoist Lighthouse
Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries
Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International
Other Sight Oasis State/Province
Park Disputed
Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb
Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park
Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff
Diving Wall
Canoeing/Kayaking Population
Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek
Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River
Snorkeling Town/Village Canal
Surfing
Swimming/Pool Transport Water
Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Windsurfing BART station
Reef
Other Activity Border crossing

Sleeping
Boston T station Areas
Bus
Airport/Runway
Sleeping Cable car/Funicular
Camping Cycling Beach/Desert
Hut/Shelter Ferry
Cemetery (Christian)
Metro/Muni station
Eating Monorail Cemetery (Other)
Eating Parking
Glacier
Petrol station
Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station Mudflat
Drinking & Nightlife Taxi
Park/Forest
Cafe Train station/Railway
Tram Sight (Building)
Entertainment Underground station
Sportsground
Entertainment Other Transport
Swamp/Mangrove
Shopping
Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
interest – she has covered Spain, Italy, Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Egypt, Morocco and Tunisia for
Lonely Planet – but she also covers Finland, Bali, Armenia, the Netherlands, the USA and Australia.
Follow her @maxwellvirginia on Instagram and Twitter.

Hugh McNaughtan
New York, New Jersey & Pennsylvania A former English lecturer, Hugh swapped grant applica-
tions for visa applications, and turned his love of travel into a full-time thing. Having done a bit of
­restaurant-reviewing in his home town (Melbourne) he’s now eaten his way across four continents.
He’s never happier than when on the road with his two daughters. Except perhaps on the cricket
field…

MaSovaida Morgan
The South MaSovaida is a Lonely Planet writer and multimedia storyteller whose wanderlust has
taken her to more than 35 countries across six continents. Prior to freelancing, she was Lonely
­Planet’s Destination Editor for South America for four years and worked as an editor for newspapers
and NGOs in the Middle East and United Kingdom. Follow her on Instagram @MaSovaida.

Lorna Parkes
New York City Londoner by birth, Melburnian by palate and former Lonely Planet staffer in both
cities, Lorna has contributed to numerous Lonely Planet books and magazines. She’s discovered
she writes best on planes, and is most content when researching food and booze. Wineries and the
tropics (not at the same time!) are her go-to happy places, but Yorkshire will always be special to her.
Follow her @Lorna_Explorer.

Kevin Raub
Great Lakes, The South Atlanta native Kevin started his career as a music journalist in New York,
working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle for
travel writing and has written nearly 50 Lonely Planet guides, focused mainly on Brazil, Chile,
Colombia, USA, India, the Caribbean and Portugal. Along the way, the confessed hophead is in
constant search of wildly high IBUs in local beers. Follow him on
Twitter and Instagram (@RaubOnTheRoad).

Simon Richmond
Pennsylvania Journalist and photographer Simon has specialised as a travel writer since the early
1990s, covering countries including Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Mongolia,
Myanmar (Burma), Russia, Singapore, South Africa and Turkey. He has lived in the UK, Japan and
Australia, and is now based back in the UK in Folkestone on the east Kent coast. His travel features
have been published in newspapers and magazines around the world, including in the UK’s Independ-
ent, Guardian, Times, Daily Telegraph and Royal Geographical Society Magazine, and in Australia’s
Sydney Morning Herald and Australian newspapers and Australian Financial Review magazine.

Benedict Walker
New England Born in Newcastle, Australia, Ben holds notions of the beach core to his idea of self,
though he’s traveled thousands of miles from the sandy shores of home to live in Leipzig, Germany.
Ben was given his first Lonely Planet guide when he was 12. Two decades later, he’d write chapters
for the same publication: a dream come true. A communications graduate and travel agent by trade,
Ben whittled away his twenties gallivanting around the globe. He thinks the best thing about travel
isn’t as much where you go as who you meet: living vicariously through the stories of kind strangers
enriches one’s own experience. Come along for the ride on Instagram @wordsandjourneys.

Greg Ward
The South Since whetting his appetite for travel by following the hippie trail to India, and later living in
northern Spain, Greg has written guides to destinations all over the world. As well as covering the USA
from the Southwest to Hawaii, he has ranged on recent assignments from Corsica to the Cotswolds,
and Japan to Corfu. See his website, www.gregward.info, for his favorite photos and memories.

Karla Zimmerman
Great Lakes, The South, Washington, DC Karla lives in Chicago, where she eats doughnuts and yells
at the Cubs, and writes stuff for books, magazines and websites when she’s not doing the first two
things. She has contributed to 70-plus guidebooks and travel anthologies covering destinations in
Europe, Asia, Africa, North America and the Caribbean. To learn more, follow her @karlazimmerman
on Instagram and Twitter.

Other contributors
Barbara Noe Kennedy contributed to the Washington, DC section. Lonely Planet Tennessee staff
Ben Buckner, Evan Godt, Alicia Johnson, Alexander Howard, Bailey Freeman and Sarah Stocking
contributed to the Nashville section. Charles Rawlings-Way curated the Great Lakes chapter, and
Martine Power curated the Florida chapter.
­ rganisations. Find him on Instagram and Twitter @markbakerprague, and his blog at www.mark
o
bakerprague.com.

Amy C Balfour
Capital Region, New England, The South Amy practiced law in Virginia before moving to Los Angeles
to try to break in as a screenwriter. After a stint as a writer’s assistant on Law & Order, she jumped
into freelance writing, focusing on travel, food and the outdoors. She has hiked, biked and paddled
across Southern California and the Southwest, and recently criss-crossed the Great Plains in search
of the region’s best burgers and barbecue. She has written many books for Lonely Planet and her
essays have appeared in the Los Angeles Times and Southern Living, and the travel anthologies Go
Your Own Way and The Thong Also Rises.

Robert Balkovich
New England, New York State Robert was born and raised in Oregon, but has called New York City
home for almost a decade. When he was a child and other families were going to theme parks and
grandma’s house, he went to Mexico City and toured Eastern Europe by train. He’s now a writer and
travel enthusiast seeking experiences that are ever so slightly out of the ordinary to report back on.
Follow on Instagram @oh_balky.

Ray Bartlett
Florida Ray has been travel writing for nearly two decades, bringing Japan, Korea, Mexico, Tan-
zania, Guatemala, Indonesia, and many parts of the USA to life in rich detail for publishers, news­
papers and magazines. Among other pursuits, he surfs regularly and is an accomplished Argentine
tango dancer. Follow him on Instagram and Twitter @kaisoradotcom.

Jade Bremner
The South Jade has been a journalist for more than a decade. Wherever she goes she finds action
sports to try, and it’s no coincidence many of her favorite places have some of the best waves in
the world. Jade has edited travel magazines and sections for Time Out and Radio Times and has
contributed to the Times, CNN and the Independent. She feels privileged to share tales from this
wonderful planet we call home and is always looking for the next adventure.

Gregor Clark
New England Gregor is a US-based writer whose love of foreign languages and curiosity about
what’s around the next bend have taken him to dozens of ­countries on five continents. Chronic
wanderlust has also led him to visit all 50 states and most Canadian provinces on countless road
trips through his native North America. Since 2000, Gregor has regularly contributed to Lonely
Planet guides, with a focus on Europe and the Americas.

Ashley Harrell
The South After a brief stint selling day spa coupons door-to-door in South Florida, Ashley decided
she’d rather be a writer. She went to journalism grad school, convinced a newspaper to hire her, and
starting covering wildlife, crime and tourism, sometimes all in the same story. Fueling her zest for
storytelling and the unknown, she traveled widely and moved often, from a tiny NYC apartment to a
vast California ranch to a jungle cabin in Costa Rica, where she started writing for Lonely Planet.

Adam Karlin
New England, Pennsylvania, The South Adam has contributed to dozens of Lonely Planet guidebooks,
covering an alphabetical spread that ranges from the Andaman Islands to the Zimbabwe border. As
a journalist, he has written on travel, crime, politics, archeology and the Sri Lankan Civil War, among
other topics. He has sent dispatches from every continent barring Antarctica (one day!) and his essays
and articles have featured on the BBC and NPR, and in multiple non-fiction anthologies. Adam is based
out of New Orleans. Learn more at http://walkonfine.com, or follow @adamwalkonfine on Instagram.

Brian Kluepfel
New England, New Jersey Brian had lived in three states and seven different residences by the time
he was nine, and just kept moving, making stops in Berkeley, Bolivia, the Bronx and the ‘burbs further
down the line. His journalistic work across the Americas has ranged from the Copa America soccer
tournament in Paraguay to an accordion festival in Québec. His titles for Lonely Planet include Costa
Rica, Bolivia and Ecuador. He writes a blog about Venezuelan baseball players and another regarding
birds of many nations called www.brianbirdwatching.blogspot.com.

Vesna Maric
Florida Vesna has been a Lonely Planet author for nearly two decades, covering places as far and
wide as Bolivia, Algeria, Sicily, Cyprus, Barcelona, London and Croatia, among others. Her latest
work has been updating Florida, Greece and North Macedonia.
Virginia Maxwell
Washington, DC, Virginia Although based in Australia, Virginia spends at least half of her year up-
dating Lonely Planet destination coverage across the globe. The Mediterranean is her major area of
OUR STORY
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London,
Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share
Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS
Trisha Ping
A year working abroad in Mulhouse, France, and a fascination with languages turned Trisha into a
lifelong traveler. Over her 15-year career as a writer and editor, she spent two years as a Destination
Editor at Lonely Planet and is now the publisher of BookPage. She lives in Nashville, Tennessee. Trisha
researched and curated the Plan Your Trip, Understand Eastern USA and Survival Guide chapters.

Ali Lemer
New York, New Jersey & Pennsylvania Ali has been a Lonely Planet writer and editor since 2007,
and has authored guidebooks and travel articles on Russia, NYC, Los Angeles, Melbourne, Bali,
Hawaii, Japan and Scotland. A native New Yorker and naturalized Melburnian, Ali has also lived in
Chicago, Prague and the UK, and has traveled extensively around Europe and North America.

Regis St Louis
New England, The South Regis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest – the kind of
place that fuels big dreams of travel – and he developed an early fascination with foreign dialects
and world cultures. He spent his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance
languages, which served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to
more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering destinations across six continents. His travels have
taken him from the mountains of Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia, and to many
grand urban landscapes. When not on the road, he lives in New Orleans.

Mara Vorhees
New England, Washington, DC & the Capital Region Mara writes about food, travel and family fun
around the world. Her work has been published by BBC Travel, Boston Globe, Delta Sky, the Van-
couver Sun and more. For Lonely Planet, she regularly writes about destinations in Central America
and Eastern Europe, as well as New England, where she lives. She often travels with her twin boys in
tow, earning her expertise in family travel. Follow their adventures at ­www.havetwinswilltravel.com.
Isabel Albiston
New England After six years working for the Daily Telegraph in London, Isabel left to spend more
time on the road. A job as a writer for a magazine in Sydney, Australia, was followed by a four-
month overland trip across Asia and five years living and working in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Isabel
started writing for Lonely Planet in 2014 and has contributed to more than a dozen guidebooks.
She’s currently based in Ireland.

Mark Baker
Great Lakes Mark is a freelance travel writer with a penchant for offbeat stories and forgotten
places. He’s originally from the United States, but now makes his home in the Czech capital,
Prague. He writes mainly on Eastern and Central Europe for Lonely Planet as well as other
leading travel publishers, but finds real satisfaction in digging up stories in places that are
too remote or quirky for the guides. Prior to becoming an author, he worked as a journalist
for the Economist, ­Bloomberg News and Radio Free Europe, among other
OVER MORE
PAG E WRITERS
Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited
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5th edition – Apr 2020 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the
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