Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Speciality Food January 2022
Speciality Food January 2022
25
CHRIS MORGAN
GREENWOOD: McGLYNN: JADE HOAI:
WHY TO STOCK CONNECTING THE HEALTH
SCOTTISH PRODUCE WITH CUSTOMERS OPPORTUNITY
P. 16 P. 20 P. 34
2
EDITOR’S
LETTER
10 John Shepherd,
MD of Partridges
12 Philippa Christer,
Montgomery Group
15 Lawrence Barnett,
Wonderland Design
W
elcome to the January
20 Morgan McGlynn,
issue of Speciality
Cheeses of Muswell Hill
Food – the first edition
20 Edward Hancock, 27 32 of 2022, a year which we all hope
cheesegeek will be a smoother ride than the
two years that have gone before.
23 James Grant, 16 2019 and 2020 were certainly
No2 Pound Street
challenging, but they also saw an
REGULARS inspiring amount of innovation,
comradery and success for the
14 Product News sector. And while the supply
chain issues that haunted the past
21 Counterpoint: 12 months are going strong, and
Inspiring Staff nobody can predict precisely what
lies in wait for 2022, I hope that
22 Cheese Uncut the strength the fine food industry
as a whole has gained will stand
26 Talking Shop: the test of time.
Keelham Farm Shop Within these pages you'll find
plenty of inspiration to get your
29 Trend Watch: Vegan Fish cogs whirring for the coming
year, from refurbishment and
38 Last Words expansion tips to advice on
how to cash in on the growing
FEATURES vegan and conscious shopper
opportunities.
16 Scotland, Land of Plenty Plus, alongside this issue
you'll find the second edition of
19 Scotland Speciality Food
Inspirational Cheese Retailers: a
Show 2022 Preview celebratory rundown of the UK's
best-loved cheesemongers, and
24 Breathe New Life
full of motivation for all.
into Displays
HOLLY SHACKLETON | EDITOR
27 How To Sell holly.shackleton@aceville.co.uk
Indulgence Now
30 Taste Direct
32 How To Sell To
‘Conscious Consumers’
34 A Fine Food Twist on
the Health Opportunity
36 Make Your Space Pay
@specialityfood
3
OCTOBER
specialityfoodmagazine.com
4
VEGAN FOOD
One in four Brits have cut back
Boris Johnson shines High street
vouchers boost
on animal products during the
pandemic, according to The Vegan
Society, and Sainsbury’s Future of
light on food sector retailers in
Northern Ireland
Food Report says that up to a quarter The prime minister hosted a food countries but this government is
of the British population will be and drink market at Downing Street supporting British food and drink “The couple of weeks of spending
vegan or vegetarian by 2025. Thanks to highlight the work of British exporters to sell even more of their that we have had of the Shop Local
to the annual plant-based pledge food businesses. brilliant produce abroad.” High Street Card Scheme really have
Veganuary, January is the time when Boris Johnson, alongside a “We are committed to ensuring made an immediate and tangible
vegan products fly off the shelves. number of cabinet members, that food and drink from all four difference to shopper footfall across
Push the boat out with a few new supported businesses that corners of the UK can be and will Northern Ireland. The over £26.5m
products this year, like seitan-based are seizing opportunities for continue to be loved across the which has now been injected into
meat replacements or oat milk-based growth by exporting their goods globe,” added international trade our local economy is reflected in the
drinks – and don’t forget about your ‘accidentally vegan products’ (more on internationally. Twelve businesses secretary Anne-Marie Trevelyan. lift in footfall with Northern Ireland
this on page 34). Retailers with cafés and restaurants would be remiss not to held market stalls in Downing She added that the new agri-food leading pack among the UK nations.
try out new plant-based menu options this month, too. Street to showcase their products, attachés in key markets will help Across NI we have seen a lift of over
including Snowdonia Cheese, Loch to unlock barriers to trade. “They five percentage points with some
REGENERATIVE CREDENTIALS Fyne Oysters, and Montezuma’s are one of the many ways we are towns and cities seeing a welcome
A couple of years ago, The Ethical chocolate. “It’s great to see the best helping to open up new exporting surge of almost 18 percentage points
Butcher came up with the idea of British food and drink here in opportunities around the world of a rise in footfall.”
for Regenuary, yet another foodie Downing Street,” Boris Johnson and are part of our plans for a truly Aodhán Connolly, Northern Ireland
campaign for the start of the new said. “We currently export to 207 Global Britain.” Retail Consortium director
year, and since then it has taken off.
The initiative draws a spotlight onto
products sourced from regenerative
farms which prioritise soil health
and sustainability. That means it is
the perfect time to bring eco-friendly
products to the fore to attract
conscious consumers and give the
brands that are giving something
back a new-year boost.
@specialityfood
5
3
to run their online business at an RIGHT-SIZING marketing strategies at a
to operate at a high level, without the hyperlocal level will be key to
acceptable margin over the longer BRICKS AND
disruptions that employee turnover improving customer service and
term, especially as competition MORTAR
can bring. and consumer expectations retaining and attracting shoppers.
With an increased
“Working alongside a number of increase. To achieve this, retailers proportion of grocery sales It is important for fine food
garden centres and farm shops this must undertake extensive grocers to use loyalty schemes in
made via online channels, the
past year, it is clear that the attention profitability analysis across ever smarter and more targeted
consequent reduction of in-store
to gaining good quality applicants both products and customers to ways to maximise market share.
footfall presents an opportunity to
is in the detail. There are so many determine what is suitable for the minimise and optimise utilisation
5
benefits to working for independent online channel, and what is not. SUSTAINABILITY
of bricks-and-mortar premises.
rural businesses, including the Lockdown created a
There are also good opportunities
2
work-life balance, shift patterns, the EFFICIENCY renewed appreciation
to optimise existing space,
Andrew Burton, retail and influence the applicant is allowed IMPROVEMENTS for the environment and
without compromising store
catering advisor at Malcolm to bring and working for an owner With in-store retail local community, so if retailers
accessibility, by forming in-store
who sees you as a person not just can source food locally to support
Scott Consultants and a already being a low- concession partnerships. This
a number. margin operation, the additional regional producers and minimise
member of the Farm Retail can drive new revenue, while
“Amongst other aspects, retention costs add more pressure. The food transport miles, they can
also developing the customer
Association council, of the staff is often down to culture meet the growing customer
key to providing cost-effective experience and attracting new
offers his tips and commitment. The interviewing e-commerce as a service is customers, who would otherwise desire to shop more sustainably.
“Employee retention is fast stage is essential, and if you get your operational efficiency, with This can provide a point of
shop online or with competitors.
becoming a key competitive advert and criteria correct, hopefully a relentless focus on cost. differentiation with competitors
4
differentiator for many industries this will help to monitor the quality Supply chain collaboration and RETAINING AND and provide opportunities to
across the world. I am regularly in of applicants. When you interview, I outsourcing may be the key to ATTRACTING create higher margin product
touch with businesses across the UK, would encourage everyone to think driving higher efficiency and CUSTOMERS ranges. By shortening the supply
Europe, America and Australia and about personality more than skills. recruiting reluctant online Capturing, analysing chain, retailers could also benefit
we’ve all got the same challenge. A Ideally the applicant will come with shoppers could provide an and using data to better from reduced supply chain risk
company’s ability to hold on to its the right criteria for both, but if opportunity to further scale understand customer needs and and cost.
talent, especially in rural businesses, not, you can train skills, improving
often has ramifications for its ability personality is another challenge.”
specialityfoodmagazine.com
6
87% 4/5
market has opened on the
ground floor of the South
Kensington Club in the
heart of Kensington
The proportion of top UK The number of SMEs that have and Chelsea.
supermarkets that have called for faced increased prices from Fine restaurant, hotel and
an extension of up to six months or suppliers over the past six months. Speciality social members club supplier Smith &
Brock has opened its debut retail
enterprise café
more to the current delay on new The rising cost of raw materials
legislation over high fat, salt and has led to inflation across the food store, The Market by Smith &
sugar (HFSS) food products. The and drink sector. Many SMEs are Brock, which serves hand-selected
survey by AI nutrition technology absorbing these costs rather than opens in Mayfair fresh fruit, vegetables, meat, dairy,
company Spoon Guru revealed that passing them on to consumers, charcuterie, wines and more.
a quarter of respondents working according to MarketFinance. The Fair Shot Café, a social enterprise Founders Joe and Nick Fowler aim
at the top 11 supermarkets feel that majority of SMEs are generating selling European food and speciality to create a retail experience wherein
they are uninformed about what the revenue despite the increased coffee, opened its first flagship venue customers will be introduced to new
HFSS legislation will entail. costs, and are prepared to accept in Mayfair’s South Molton Street, and unique flavours and products
up to a 20% drop in revenue. Grosvenor Britain & Ireland said. they were previously unfamiliar with.
The café was founded by Bianca
20k -9
Tavella who started the business
to address the 94% unemployment
levels for young people with
learning disabilities.
Amelia Bright, executive director
The number of small businesses in The average level of shopper of Grosvenor Britain & Ireland, said,
Scotland lost during a single year of confidence recorded by market “Workplaces need to embrace all
the Covid crisis, according to official analysts at IGD in November, kinds of diversity. With Fair Shot,
statistics. According to the Business up from -11 in October. Shopper we aim to make real social impact
in Scotland statistical release, confidence increased across most on how business owners hire, train
between March 2020 and March demographic groups, particularly and support this community of
2021, the estimated number of small those aged 25 and over and lower extremely willing, extremely capable
businesses fell by 5.4%, or 19,805. income households. individuals.”
With more shoppers than ever
wearing their values on their sleeves,
93% 31%
it’s no surprise to see more social
enterprises springing up in the fine
food sector. There are currently more
than 70,000 across the country, and
retail and hospitality are among
How many UK retailers say The no and low drink sector is the top sectors in which social
sustainability is a ‘focus’ or ‘big forecast to grow 31% by volume by enterprises operate.
focus’ for the next 12 months. When 2024, according to IWSR Drinks
B2B marketplace business Creoate Market Analysis, after growing 17%
asked how retailers are making to reach a value of $741m in the UK
their business more sustainable, last year. The multiples are betting
the most popular response was by on growth in alcohol-free drinks, with
‘choosing products which are more sales of zero-alcohol spirits at Tesco
sustainable/eco-friendly’ (84%), soaring by 106% in 2021 and by 91%
followed by ‘stocking more local at Sainsbury’s. While zero-alcohol
products’ (68%), and ‘reviewing spirits currently only make up 0.6%
[their] own packaging/bags’ (64%). of the market, they are growing fast.
@specialityfood
8
@specialityfood
10
8
Retailers take note: the CBD
I
know by the time you read this There was also a poorer pumpkin
flexitarian movement is going bottles that consumers can return The CBD market has seen
it will be 2022. However, before crop and similar supply issues in
strong. In Whole Foods Market’s to for an evening tipple, pre- an explosion of interest
we face up to the realities of the the US, apparently.
latest Trends Council report, mixed cocktails have shed their in recent years, thanks to the
New Year, I would like to reflect There were other factors at
‘reducetarianism’ was dubbed a top less than sparkling reputation as growing demand for healthy
on an element of 2021. play as well. On the aggravating
trend to watch for 2022, perfect for speciality drink industry brands foods and CBD’s claimed benefits
In particular, Thanksgiving. side of the spectrum were a
“plant-curious eaters” who aren’t revamp the category to ride the for mental health and wellness.
This delightful British export* to projected turkey shortage, bad
ready to give up meat entirely. The wave of premiumisation in drinks. Increasingly, however, CBD
America has for about 40 years weather in Thanksgiving week, a
plant-based food sector is certainly Waitrose expects pre-batched products are moving away from
enlivened sales in the month tube strike and the travel corridor
growing – online food platform bottled cocktails to be one of the the health food shops and into
of November. *(Courtesy of the reopening between the UK and the
ShelfNow said between 2020 top future trends in food and drink. drinks and food products, so it is
Pilgrim Fathers – tongue in the US which probably lured potential
and 2021 sales of vegetarian food certainly an area worth exploring
vicinity of cheek). customers away.
5
products increased by 156% and NOSTALGIC DESSERTS for fine food retailers. ShelfNow
A lot of what we experienced On the mitigating side there had
vegan product sales jumped 150% The novelty of retro foods has noted that alongside a growing
will be important training for the been good weather until the last
and products like dairy and meat has not worn off on British interest for CBD, products like
New Year. week of November, we were able
alternatives are a growing market. consumers, who are still returning Cannasa, a premium CBD-infused
We originally stumbled on this to swap ‘fungible foods’ on a like
to nostalgic recipes for a dose of drink, are increasingly in demand.
great Other Side Of The Pond for like basis, American customers
9
expats in Chelsea kept trying order to maintain the spirit of BREAKFAST POTATO MILK
The home working boom video of a school-dinner-style Could potato milk be the
to buy turkeys in November. Thanksgiving and finally, a number
caused a shift in consumers’ traybake receiving more than next big thing to disrupt
Eventually the penny dropped of our lines also sell well in the
grocery buying habits – and with 100,000 views on TikTok. On the vegan milk alternatives
and our range evolved into selling run-up to Christmas, so there will
many still yet to return full-time to Waitrose’s website, searches of sector? The innovative brand DUG
a number of beloved American be little wastage on the stocks we
the office, cutting out the commute knickerbocker glory were up 171%, has caught the eye of experts,
products to accompany the have held.
means more consumers have time the retailer said. from Waitrose’s buyers to food
precious bird. For the final trading result of
for a leisurely breakfast. In fact, consultant Heather Morris of
In this mission we have been Thanksgiving 2021, sales ended
6
during the first lockdown, one JAPANESE FLAVOURS SHFoodie, who are excited by
greatly assisted over the years up about 2.4% down on 2020 and
survey found that Brits ate eggs Dishes inspired by foreign its sustainable credentials as
by Damian Curzon Price and 3.5% up on 2019. I feared it was
for breakfast 68% more times than countries have flourished in well as its creamy flavour. With
his team at Americatessen who going to be a lot worse than this.
in the previous year, while bacon Britain since the pandemic hit, and alternative-milks like oat milk
saw the gap in the market and However, we expect the
sales were up 21% and pastries experts have tracked a particular and almond milk continuing to
developed it along with other November trading micro climate
were up 25%, according to Waitrose. interest in Japanese flavours in penetrate the diary market, there
wholesalers who later followed to continue into the New Year.
the build-up to and following the is good reason to believe the
suit. I am pleased to report we Covid-19 variant dodging, price
3
MUSHROOMS Tokyo Olympics. At Waitrose, sales hype that plant-based milk will
even launched a Ben & Jerry increases, supply problems and
Versatile mushrooms are not of the retailer’s own-brand umami continue to grow in popularity.
product at one stage, but that is staff recruitment headaches are all
likely to be aggravating prospects. brand new to the superfood paste were up 17% compared with
another story. The net result with
10
But as in November there will category, but their cult-like status 2019, while sushi sales saw a 54% SPICY FOODS
Thanksgiving is that November
is now reaching the masses. Not increase. Consumers were also From traditional
is by far and away our second be mitigating factors. Spring and
only is the consumption of ordinary keen to try their hand at creating spices like garam
busiest month of the year, helped the sap rising, vaccination rates
mushrooms on the rise, but they’re their own sushi, with sales of sushi masala and cardamom to South
by the Halloween afterglow at the increasing, Platinum Jubilee street
being found in more and more mats up 57% and nori sales up 56% East Asian flavours like gochujang
beginning and the Black Friday parties developing and hopefully
unexpected places, from mushroom compared to the same period or American-style barbecue rubs,
scramble at the end. Throw in a a realisation that, all going well,
powder adding punchy flavour to last year. Waitrose says Brits are showing a
local Christmas lights switch on for we have survived the worst retail
alternative meats to varieties like growing interest in adding a pop
good measure and it is the perfect recession since World War II.
7
Lion’s Mane adding functional LEVANTINE FOOD of flavour to their dishes. In fact,
cocktail for stressed-out speciality So it is probably a good time to
benefits to beverages. Consumers are also inspired sales of herbs and spices at the
food retailers. give thanks to Thanksgiving and
by the food of the Levant, retailer are up 41% last year after
Yet, of course, 2021 has been the great American customers it
4
BOTTLED COCKTAILS which comprises a large area a strong 2020. Top performers
a lot more exacting than previous brings with it, and the fact that the
Convenient, cost-effective in the Eastern Mediterranean. in this category include Middle
years. It is true to say that import concept of speciality foods has yet
and tasty – there’s nothing Searches for Levantine on Eastern spices, tying in with the
difficulties have arisen before. again proved resilient throughout a
not to love about the premium Waitrose’s website rose by more trend for Levantine food, and
Storms, bad weather and shipping singularly challenging period.
pre-batched bottled cocktails on than 2,500%, the retailer said, speciality salts.
diversions have disrupted supplies Hello 2022 – bring it on!
@specialityfood
We work with local producers to
help identify new trends, bring
forward innovative products and
grow their business.
Northern Ireland.
Bringing our world-class food
and drink to your table.
Long renowned for the superb quality of milk produced by cows grazing on its
lush green fields, Northern Ireland is now becoming celebrated for the wonderful
cheeses made from that milk.
Over the last decade a growing movement of talented artisan cheesemakers have
been perfecting their craft, creating award-winning cheeses which are now in
demand across Ireland and the UK and throughout the international market.
W
ow, here we are, 2022! to the explosion of new products “Price inflation doesn’t seem to million, and the figure could be even drink (23%) was higher than gifts
What a rollercoaster it and businesses, IFE is introducing be denting their desire to treat bigger this year,” he said. (16%), home goods and furnishings
has been for our a dedicated Vegan & Plant Based themselves and loved ones,” Fraser Further research from Kantar (12%) and travel (11%).
industry. As I reflect on the past Section, in partnership with the Vegan
two years, it’s amazing to think Society, for 2022. We're excited
of the resilience, innovation and to be joined at the show by big While there are some global issues at play, there are levers that
inspiration that’s come from players in the vegan and plant-based the Government can pull to improve current business conditions,
both speciality food and drink sector such as The Meatless Farm
businesses and independent and Beyond Meat, companies that for example, the introduction of an energy price cap for SMEs and
retailers across the UK. have been leading the way when it
The IFE, International Food & comes to innovation in the sector, and
providing more temporary visas in the hardest hit sectors through
Drink Event, team have naturally exciting new businesses like Plant expansion of the Shortage Occupation List
been keeping our fingers on the Alternative, which delivers authentic
pulse of industry trends, and, as Asian chef-inspired restaurant quality SHEVAUN HAVILAND, DIRECTOR GENERAL OF THE BRITISH CHAMBERS OF COMMERCE
always, consumer attitudes and meals nationwide.
@specialityfood
13
specialityfoodmagazine.com
14 PRODUCT NEWS
Take stock with our new food and drink round-up
sauces), our new 100% Olive Oil mayonnaise is a natural move for us. Free-
from inflammatory seed oils commonly found in other brands, ours is made celebrate the
lupin bean
with 100% light tasting olive oil from ancient groves in the Cordoba region
of Spain, which are pressed in the traditional way, meaning absolutely
no chemical hexanes or solvents are used. The result is a product that’s
pure, light and delicious, packed with healthful monosaturated fats and
A new brand has emerged into the fine food sector with
polyphenols, and with absolutely no added nasties.”
a mission to highlight the lupin bean.
hunterandgatherfoods.com
Tarwi has launched with two products – Lummus
and Marinated Lupin Beans – which are available in
a range of flavours. Lummus, a hummus-inspired dip,
hits market
A Tarwi spokesperson said, “Our mission is to
normalise the access to healthier foods by creating
simple, tasty and convenient products, that customers
can appreciate and understand.”
Nut product-specialists Borna Foods tarwi.co.uk
have released a new product into the
nut ‘milk’ category: Pistachio Drink.
Available in 500ml cartons in both
unsweetened and slightly sweetened
options, and containing added
calcium and vitamin B12 from natural
sources, the new launches are high in
fibre and low in calories – ideal for the
growing milk alternative market.
Behnam Heydaripour, director of
Borna Foods, said, “I found myself
becoming frustrated with the lack of
‘real’ nut milk innovation taking place
in the UK, which has allowed oat
and soy milks to bed in, but believe
pistachio milk will be a discerning
game-changer!”
bornafoods.com
Pinkster unveils
new ‘naked’ gin
Cambridgeshire-based Pinkster Gin has released
its triple juniper base gin – usually macerated
with fresh raspberries –as Naked Pinkster.
Stephen Marsh, managing director at Pinkster,
said, “The truth is, we’ve been hiding our light
under a bushel for far too long. Unlike many of our
pink peers, Pinkster has long been acknowledged
as a dry gin and that’s because we refused to cut
corners on the quality of our core spirit.
“With its subtle notes and hint of pepper, this
juniper-forward gin provided the perfect foil for
the fresh fruit that we’ve built our reputation on.
Eight years later, it’s now time to bare all and
introduce Naked Pinkster as a quality gin in
its own right.”
pinkstergin.com
@specialityfood
15
B
this tradition forward.” efore the days of online easily choose the right product.
saichodrinks.com shopping, the most So, packaging designers have
influential designers claimed to adapt once more and embed
that packaging design was easy. another discipline into their
All you needed to make the case skills armoury – the art of online
Berczy releases Winter Cola Consequently, designers have so shoppers don’t end up with a
adapted to the demands of the conditioner rather than a shampoo
pack using ever more creative or a snack pack rather than a
ideas to protect the integrity of sharing pack.
Berczy, producer of hard seltzers for the UK market, has launched a Winter Cola variant the brand and keep messaging Whilst it might seem daunting to
into its range. hierarchies as clear as possible. get your physical pack to translate
Available until March, the new flavour brings together flavours of the kola nut and lime However, there’s no denying that easily online, it can be quite a
into their blend of four times-distilled spirit and British sparkling water. packs on our shelves today contain liberating exercise to explore how
The new launch is designed to show that hard seltzer is not just a refreshing drink for a huge amount of visual and verbal your pack can be optimised to work
hot weather, and that it can be enjoyed throughout the year. communication. effectively on a mobile device.
Nick Graham, co-founder of Berczy, said, “We are bringing together a number of flavour But the explosion in online It might even give you some
trends into our first limited edition flavour, with natural cola becoming increasingly shopping – so vital to smaller and great ideas about how to improve
prevalent in soft drinks. After six months of research, development and taste testing, we medium-sized brands in particular your physical pack too.
have delicately balanced the flavours of kola nut and lime into an all-natural, refreshing
and light alcoholic drink for the colder months.”
“Hard seltzer is often seen as a summer-focused drink, but we are looking to change that
It can be quite a liberating
perception with the British public. We are also really excited to launch our new flavour into
exclusive four-pack multi-packs, a format that is becoming increasingly popular.”
exercise to explore how your pack
berczydrinks.com can be optimised
specialityfoodmagazine.com
16
SCOTLAND
COMMENTATORS
JAMES WITHERS
SCOTLAND FOOD & DRINK
LAND OF PLENTY
The country’s breathtaking scenery is home to some of
the world’s most renowned and inventive produce, ideal
CHRIS GREENWOOD
VISITSCOTLAND
for discerning independents
we have an incredible diversity of government working hand in hand producers based at Bowhouse which
products,” he says. “Alongside a rich through the Scotland Food & Drink have increased its visibility to the
tradition of farming, fishing, food Partnership with a recovery plan wider fine food industry – and food-
and drink production there is an delivering a whole suite of business loving consumers – across the UK.
increasing amount of innovation support and market development These products, from organic brewer
ROSIE JACK
BOWHOUSE too as producers aim to lead the measures.” The best is yet to come, Futtle to BBC Food & Farming
way on the big trends, not least says James: “I genuinely think we’ll Award-winning flour producer,
sustainability and health-enhancing bounce back stronger than ever.” Scotland the Bread. The site also
foods.” This sustainability-minded For Rosie Jack, manager of hosts monthly Market Weekends,
approach should reap rewards for Bowhouse in Fife, Scottish produce welcoming visitors from near and
Scotland over the coming years, – with a local focus – is the heart far to sample the wares of the best
with Scottish companies “leading and soul of the work she does. “Our independent producers from across
IAIN STIRLING the way” in climate-friendly food focus has been on strengthening Fife and Scotland.
ARBIKIE DISTILLERY
production. the local food market,” she explains,
“creating an environment where raw A valuable landscape
The tourist pound ingredients from the surrounding to respect global reputation for producing top-
Brand Scotland is internationally fields and coast is transformed into The breathtaking landscapes quality produce in a pristine natural
revered, having “strengthened something exceptional and made of Scotland certainly have environment,” says Rosie. “Certainly
hugely over the last decade, both available locally.” Supporting local international appeal and feed here at Bowhouse our focus is on
PETER DIGNAN overseas and within our own shores supply chains and small businesses directly into the country’s reputation supporting regenerative agriculture
LOST LOCH SPIRITS
and has become synonymous is key to Bowhouse, and “to for fine food and drink, and for a and farming organically. We’re
with excellence and high quality supporting a vibrant community lot of the country’s food producers surrounded by productive coast and
produce,” according to James. in this area,” says Rosie. it’s vital that they maintain the farmland and, when we look after it
VisitScotland states that two thirds There are a number of exceptional sanctity of the land. “Scotland has a in this way, the variety of food and
of Scotland’s visitors think quality
food is an important factor when
ROBERT THAIN
HOUSE OF BRUAR
deciding where to go on holiday HMRC have become a lot more open to smaller producers,
and are prepared to pay up to 15%
more for produce of Scottish or and has been the biggest change for hundreds of years and it has
ugged landscapes, awe-
@specialityfood
SCOTLAND SPECIAL 17
which is really what people want.
The regular rhythm of the producers
based here at Bowhouse connects PRIDE OF
SCOTLAND
the local community to the produce
and the markets showcase the wider
Scottish scene.”
This sustainable approach
is shared by Arbikie Distillery, Wow your customers with our pick
launched on the Arbikie Highland of Scotland’s food greats
Estate in November 2014 with a
focus on field-to-bottle distilling.
The Stirling family have been STAG BAKERIES
farming for over 400 years and the
1
Based in the Scottish Outer
brothers are the latest custodians of Hebrides, Stag Bakeries
their family lands with their focus is a family-run bakery with
on building a long-term, legacy a heritage dating back to 1885.
business. “Arbikie grows, distils, Traditional recipes and time-
matures and bottles its family of honoured methods remain at the
sustainable spirits at Lunan Bay on heart of every product its team
Scotland’ sunny east coast,” explains of skilled craft bakers create. The
Iain Stirling, director. “Sustainability result is a product range trusted
is at the core of the business – for on quality and provenance.
every decision made, Arbikie Stag’s signature Seaweed
always considers the environmental Water Biscuits were named
impact and how they can do better, Best Scottish Speciality Product
with their distilling from start to in 2013. Pairing a classic water
finish using negligible miles for its biscuit recipe with a blend of
production,” he continues. three seaweeds, it provides
Within the Arbikie Distillery a truly unique flavour full
range of gins, vodkas and whiskies of character.
is their world-first climate positive stagbakeries.co.uk
spirit, Nàdar, distilled from peas
drink we’re able to produce here them to create exceptional produce which removes the need for
is vast. The business we work with using local ingredients, and this artificial fertiliser use, resulting
are selected because they’re working in turn supports a wider food and in a carbon saving of >1.53kg per
with the kind of ethos that drink landscape and stronger local bottle. “This innovation also creates
supports this.” sourcing here. This has brought a the opportunity for gin brands to
As well as working hard to number of producers to the fore who consider buying pea-based instead
maintain the environmental wouldn’t otherwise have found a of wheat-based white spirit with MILLBROOK DAIRY
landscape, the team at Bowhouse
aims to strengthen supply chain
place in established supply chains,”
she continues. The business’s
a vastly reduced environmental
impact,” explains Iain. Arbikie grows
COMPANY
2
ecosystems across the sector. “From monthly market weekends play all that it needs to distil, including Hard on the heels of the
the outset, the concept of Bowhouse a role, and have helped to pique chillies, lemongrass, juniper and 2021 launch of its prestigious
was devised in response to a gap in consumer interest and allow for limes, as well as the traditional farm 1057 Scottish Cheddar,
supply chains. We aim to create a what Rosie describes as “an open, crops of barley, peas, potatoes and Millbrook has launched its new
habitat for food and drink makers transparent approach to producing wheat. The business’s sustainable 1057 Scottish Gin. Named after the
here at Bowhouse that encourages something delicious with integrity, mission doesn’t end there. “Our auspicious date when King MacBeth
was slain on the Aberdeenshire
battlefield near Lumphanan in 1057,
it has dedicated the gin to MacBeth,
and the people and landscape he
governed. It is slowly handmade
for a complex bouquet and smooth
mouth feel, and gently spiced with
bright citrus and delicate florals,
making it a beautifully balanced
and complex drop of Scottish gin –
encapsulating the best of Scotland in
one glass. Why not try a wee
dram with Millbrook’s 1057
Scottish Cheddar – the
perfect Scottish pairing.
millbrookdairy.com
ISLAND BAKERY
3
Island Bakery has been baking organic biscuits on the Isle of Mull for
20 years. Recently it has introduced new ranges of savoury biscuits
to its long-standing collection of sweet varieties. Their very moreish
Isle of Mull Cheese Biscuits use the gold medal-winning cheese made on
the Reade family farm just next door to the factory. Two of the Organic
Oatcakes varieties have been awarded 2021 Great Taste Awards.
Sweet FA Gluten Free is another new launch from the bakery. There
are four varieties of organic, vegan and gluten-free cookies which
everyone can truly enjoy. Like all Island Bakery biscuits, they are made
in the business’s renewable energy-powered bakery.
islandbakery.scot
specialityfoodmagazine.com
18
What people really want is an open,
transparent approach to producing
something delicious with integrity
THE FUTURE OF SCOTTISH
latest projects include intercropping, this has opened the market up
FOOD AND DRINK
growing peas and barley together in distilleries like ourselves,” explains
the same field, and growing heritage Peter Dignan, co-founder of Lost ROSIE JACK, ROBERT THAIN, FOODHALL BUYING
barleys with a focus on flavour, Loch Spirits. “I think this has been MANAGER OF BOWHOUSE IN FIFE MANAGER AT HOUSE OF BRUAR
rather than yield,” says Iain. “It is the biggest change for hundreds of Demand for locally sourced produce The future of Scottish food and drink
this collaboration and innovation years and it has transformed the with exceptional quality continues like a lot of things at the moment
that makes Arbikie stand out – spirits industry in Scotland. Looking to grow and consumers continue to remains uncertain. We are yet to see
challenging norms and pushing the at the history of spirits and their be interested in the story behind the the full implications of the Covid-19
boundaries, leading to revolutionary production is a massive part of what product. This was heightened during pandemic and it will take some time to
and exciting new products.” Lost Loch stands for.” Indeed, the lockdown but we still see it continuing sort out all the implications of Brexit. One
Scotland’s distilling heritage is business’s ethos is: “To be inventive and are keen to ensure this focus on quality seasonal of the positives of both of these is that more people
incredibly important to Arbikie in our thinking, to look at history for produce remains. are interested to find out where there food comes
and reviving the distilling of inspiration and to produce a range I also feel that innovation from small producers from and are prepared to shop more locally for quality
Rye Scotch Whisky, which was of unique spirits using the very best continues to grow – and is really inspiring – both products. Therefore, we as a business and indeed as
grown in Scotland over 200 years local ingredients.” A boon for spirit in terms of the products they’re developing and the a country cannot afford to rely on things staying the
ago, illustrates how heritage and lovers across borders, certainly, as ways they’re doing it. This environment of creativity same, we have to be sure we are promoting Scottish
innovation can be combined. “There is the business’s range which spans linked to local food and drink is exactly what food and drink in all that we do.
was a distillery at Arbikie in 1794, Scotland’s first absinthe, Haroosh (a Bowhouse looks to support.
so the Arbikie Estate has a rich whisky liqueur) and eeNoo gin. IAIN STIRLING
heritage of growing and distilling,” Lost Loch Spirits’ inventive streak PETER DIGNAN DIRECTOR OF ARBIKIE SPIRITS
says Iain. “Being a young distillery, runs throughout the company. CO-FOUNDER OF LOST LOCH SPIRITS
Scotland should have a very bright
Arbikie has the opportunity to “We get some very interesting
It’s hard to comment on the entirety future as we produce some of the
build on the centuries of distilling requests from customers and we
of Scotland, but in the north east of world’s best food and drink, with our
expertise in Scotland by returning are always designing new ways
Scotland there is huge investment products in demand by discerning
to a focus on growing and on being of production and new ways of
of time, skills and capital in food and consumers across the world. Our
sustainable as was the tradition imparting flavours into what we
drink businesses. Opportunity One whisky and gin are recognised as being
on farms across Scotland.” Arbikie produce,” Peter explains. “With our
North East (ONE) has been spearheading world-leading and reflected in Scotland exporting
recently announced that it is own brands we also like to do things
this. ONE was started by Sir Ian Wood as an over £14 billion of food and drink. The key to
planning to power its distillery with a little differently and that’s why we
enterprise to get the north east ready for life after continued growth will be ensuring competitive
Green Hydrogen, combining wind produced Scotland’s first absinthe.
oil and they have played a big part In many food trading access to the world’s key markets, our food
and solar power and also focusing We have since aged absinthe in a
and drink start-ups over the last few years. Scotland and drink businesses continuing to innovate and
on removing single-use glass bottles whisky cask and this was released
has always had globally recognised food and drink collaborate, and the industry continuing to upskill
from its supply chain. under our Singular Series range. We
offerings and with further investment this will their staff.
launched the Singular Series range
only grow.
History as inspiration so we could get our experiments to
Arkibie is just one of an exciting market. Another release under the
new generation of distillers are Singular Series was Rucolino, this
looking to complement this history was based on the recipe of an Italian Scotland is ready to welcome visitors, serving stunning
with an invigorating blend of liqueur that we found in an old
innovation and experimentation. book.” Innovation and sustainability scenery, mouth-watering food and drink or
“HMRC have become a lot more abound; the future of Scotland’s food
open to smaller producers and and drink scene is here.
a totally new experience
@specialityfood
19
SCOTLAND’S
SPECIALITY FOOD SHOW 2022
Scotland is in the spotlight at this January show,
held at Glasgow’s SEC
P
roducers from all corners to check out include Beet This Food awareness, product presentation
of Scotland and beyond Sauce, Yaldi Sweets, Dark Sky Spirits, and taste tests are an important
are filling up the stands at Valentian Vermouth, Highland way of selling for the food and drink
Scotland’s only food and drink trade Boundary, Ecobean Coffee Roasters, sector, making Scotland’s Speciality
Show for 2022. Held at the Scottish The Bottled Baking Co, Ramsay Food Show a valuable event for Fife
Exhibition Campus (SEC), Glasgow of Carluke, Ochil Fudge and businesses.”
from 23 – 25th January, this Show Slainte Spirits. It’s also good to welcome back
promises to be a celebration of fine long-standing producers such as
food and drink, as well as a much Regional specialities Scotia Spice, Stewart Tower Dairy,
needed re-connecting event for the A particular feature for this Show is Summerhouse Drinks, Summer
speciality food market. the regional stands. Orkney, a show Harvest Oils and Sarah Gray
With about 120 exhibitors in the stalwart, has taken more space than preserves.
food and drink sector, the 2022 ever before, housing about seven Mark Saunders, show director,
Show has attracted many new small companies such as Deerness said, “The aim of this food show is to
producers, as well as various regional Distilling, Orkney Creamery, ensure we are a one-stop show for
food groups, showcasing regional Stockans Oatcakes and many more. all independent retailers, both food buyer, Andrew Firth from Herbies
specialities from Orkney, Lanarkshire New for this year is Lanarkshire and gifts, in Scotland and northern deli and Catriona Farquharson from
and Fife. Larder incorporating Biggar Gin, England. Here they can be inspired, Finzean Farm Shop - in the mode
Bella Chocolate and Scottish Tea place orders and ensure they of the BBC’s Dragon’s Den in an
New! House, among others. Around 12 Fife are ahead of the game for the entertaining and exciting session.
In the centre of the Show is the companies will showcase products coming season. Best Product Awards will be
Launch Gallery for new young from this rich agricultural area, “We have been encouraged by judged on the opening day with
companies which includes Nuisance such as Rumburra, East Neuk Salt the number of new starts during the resulting winners’ products on return and actually re-connect with
Drinks, Ellon Spirit Company, Company, Bplasticfree and Almaz the pandemic, especially where display in the centre of the Show. suppliers. Many of the exhibitors
Woodmill Game, Isle of Mull Seaweed Foods. Ann Camus, Enterprise and producers are maximising the The Show is pleased to announce only exhibit at this Show so it is
and NEST Selected Greek products. Business Development Manager at natural resources from their region.” that EcoBags are the official supplier key to come and see and taste their
In the main Show the new exhibitors Fife Council, commented: “Brand of carrier bags to Scotland’s Trade products and place orders ahead of
Beyond the buying Fair and are providing bags made the competition.
The Show’s Talking Shop zone from recycled plastic bottles, which Robert Thain, Food Buyer from
will provide visitors with insight are themselves recyclable. House of Bruar said, “Scotland’s
into current topics such as Speciality Food Show gets better
Targeting Influencers, an Instagram Why attend? and better with a great variety of
Masterclass, How to do your own PR, Scotland’s Speciality Food Show is producers. This is also a perfect
Gaining retail listings, results from run in conjunction with Scotland’s networking show as you get to meet
retail research, Attracting Tourists Trade Fair, which has evolved over up with existing suppliers and taste
Back and Sustainability. There will the decades to become a ‘must and see their new ranges.”
be a range of informal talks, panel attend’ event in the calendar of
discussions and workshops. all retailers, farm shops, tourist
Nessie’s Den is also returning destinations and department stores.
NEED TO KNOW
IN DETAIL
and is where emerging producers Although online has supplemented WHERE: SECC, Glasgow
will showcase their products to the the buying process over the last WHEN: 23rd-25th January 2022
‘Nessies’ – James Lamont, a Tesco 18 months, retailers are keen to WEB: scotlandstradefairs.com
specialityfoodmagazine.com
20
customers an additional reason to return and cheese pairing guidelines to help you when Feta and sweet port wine. Honey and cheese
look for further pairing advice. indecision strikes. When you match the happens to be one of my favourite pairings.
It almost becomes a habit that once strengths, you get to experience a blend of Honey can elevate the flavour of salty cheese
our customers have got to the till, without flavours rather than an intensity of just one. and the result is sensational.
thought the next sentence out of our One of the first questions to ask when pairing In its many forms, honey works so well
mouth is, “would you like any biscuits or cheese with chutneys, pickles, fruit or veg, on a cheese board, and it pairs much like
accompaniments with that”. Sparking the or really anything is: “do the strengths of the with wine or fruit – the key is matching
MORGAN MCGLYNN idea in the customer’s head and offering the flavours match?” the intensity; a strong cheese needs a full-
CHEESES OF MUSWELL HILL chance to showcase our range of incredible A tongue tingling blue is going to require flavoured honey
chutney, fruit pastes, pickles etc. an equally assertive pairing – lest your Opposites attract, and sometimes the best
fter 15 years of having the cheese We have now taken this one step further pairing gets overwhelmed by the cheese. pairings are the ones that draw distinctly
INSPIRING STAFF:
kept doors open and fewer staff
furloughed over 2020 and 2021. “Personally, I always try to create a
Instead, staff members worked positive working environment, and
hard through the darkest days of convey my love for what I do across
TOP TIPS
the pandemic. They toiled through to others. I really do love my job, and
lockdowns, the mask-clad Christmas I get excited about all aspects of it.”
of 2020 and the cautious reopening This foodie passion is undeniably
in 2021. They also worked hard what makes the fine food sector
through supply chain breakdowns tick – and it’s infectious. “The
Investing in your staff will pay dividends in the year ahead. and labour shortages that marked others can see this, and this in turn
excites them. So, when it comes
Discover fresh ideas for boosting knowledge, confidence
2021, and another busy Christmas
period just last month. time to open up and serve our
customers, they come into a place
and passion in your team members January is the perfect time to
regroup and reward your staff. of overwhelming positivity from
“For us, it’s about giving our deli everyone inside, where people really
taking pride int their work,” Izaak
W
hen is the last time you Cheesemakers and mongers have be found, but while the search staff a much-needed break where
checked in with your felt the impact of labour pools drying continues, keeping your existing possible, and that could mean giving says. “Our job is such a personal one,
staff? January – after the up, with numerous cheese retailers staff satisfied over the coming them shorter shifts as part of their and you build up relationships with
Christmas rush is done and dusted telling Speciality Food that they months, especially after a tiring working week and longer weekends so many people that you see you
and the shop floor goes quiet – offers struggled to hire staff during the Christmas period, will be key to off,” Candice said. Offering time to need to be full of passion about your
a great opportunity to catch up festive season, and that they had to maintaining your business’s high recharge will not go unnoticed. work. I think that this is the most
with members of staff. Whether you work longer hours and more shifts standards in 2022. effective way to inspire people, just
have one part-timer or a bustling to fill the gaps in the rota. Upskilling opportunities being genuine and happy.”
staff room, ensuring they are happy Cheese-loving foodies are Refresh and recharge As well as relaxing working
and fulfilled in their roles is key to certainly out there waiting to Searching for ways to boost sales hours, the slower months offer an
running a successful shop. and keep busy in the January lull opportunity to boost your team’s
Recently, the news headlines is an admirable and necessary skills. Upskilling can form a new
have been filled with the challenges
The best way task, but before you dive in with part of a fresh training plan for
arising from labour shortages
all the way through the food
I find to inspire a new to-do list, give your staff –
and yourself – a breather. “We’re
2022, which will allow staff to feel
more invested in the business while
and drink supply chain – from others at the shop starting 2022 with the majority of also becoming a more valuable
the workers picking produce on our retail team having worked right asset to you as they grow their
farms to manufacturers keeping is quite simply through the pandemic,” said Candice confidence and knowledge. “We
factories flowing to the HGV drivers
delivering stock to shops. Retail
through positivity Fonseca, proprietor of Delifonseca.
This will be the case for many deli
tend to do quite a bit of training at
the beginning of a year as it can
establishments are not exempt and passion in and cheesemonger staff at the start be a quieter period after the festive
from these shortages either, as shop of 2022, as their classification as season,” Candice says, “so as a
owners no doubt have experienced. what you do an essential business thankfully business, we look to get individuals
@specialityfood
22 CHEESE UNCUT
New retail perspectives from industry experts
@specialityfood
23
NEWS IN BRIEF ‘Enormous’ opportunities “Where it all began”
SHROPSHIRE MAN
CREATES FIRST ULTRA-LOW
CHOLESTEROL CHEESE
for British cheese in Asia cheese. In Marta’s town of Ambás
A coronary heart disease sufferer The export opportunity for British in November to showcase British
and throughout the Asturias
has created an ultra-low cholesterol cheesemakers was highlighted in businesses who are “making
you will also find Hórreos: these
Cheddar because he missed eating recent research by Kite Consulting the most of our international
structures have been in the
cheese. John Goddard, who is also and National Milk Records. Dairy trade policy”. Among the brands
Asturias since the 13th century
a senior food industry executive, demand from 90 importing countries highlighted were Snowdonia
and are mainly used as a granary.
invented Fit Cheese for those with a population of almost 5 billion Cheese and Ballylisk Dairies.
In the Asturias they are built in
watching what they eat after he people, or two-thirds of the world’s “We currently export to 207
squares and balanced on four to
began to suffer from heart disease. population, increased 17.8% between countries but this government is
Fit Cheese is made with vegetable 2011 and 2019. supporting British food and drink JAMES GRANT six pegoyos (stone pillars) with
oil and is “virtually cholesterol free” Countries including China, exporters to sell even more of their NO2 POUND STREET a muelas on top of each (flat
square or round stone/slate) to
but has “all the taste” he told the Indonesia and Mexico could be brilliant produce abroad,” the prime
W
ay back before the prevent rodents from entering.
Shropshire Star. “It took well into poised to increase their consumption minister said. The government has
industrial age and These structures are still used
2019 before we perfected it, and of dairy, but if British brands are announced that a new network of
supermarket food, today by the village to store and
in the process, we had to write off to become successes in these agri-food and drink attachés will be
there was a real understanding dry food. Marta ages some of her
thousands of kilos of stock that markets, it will take innovation in used in key markets, including China
of food. D’Afuega’l Pitu here. The Hórreos
didn’t make the grade. But we got the processing sector and political and the Asia-Pacific region, to unlock
After stone age man gathered are sectioned into areas for each
there. We developed a process that support, according to the report. barriers to trade. “They are one of
together and became familiar family to store their foods.
allowed us to make the cheese in The NFU has revealed plans to the many ways we are helping to
with the land, an agrarian lifestyle The milk that Marta uses is
the same way as Cheddar.” double UK dairy exports over the open up new exporting opportunities
began. Now food was not only from her neighbour’s farm, also
next decade, and cheese is high around the world and are part of our
VEGAN ALT-CHEESE for the fittest but became the near Ambás. She embraces the
on the list. Indeed, prime minister plans for a truly Global Britain,” said
BRAND CREATES backbone of communities. community by supporting and
Boris Johnson held a food and Anne-Marie Trevelyan, international
CAMEMBERT FLAVOUR People worked together offering work to those within the
drink market at Downing Street trade secretary.
Violife has launched Le Rond for the common good of their area. Her cheese is only sold
Camembert Flavour cheese communities. Over the years, at local markets and feeds the
alternative, diversifying its range
of vegan dairy substitutes. The
cheese alternative can be eaten
Feltham’s Farm’s ‘lovely’ trades were created to help
sustain the lifestyle born through
these agricultural lifestyles. All
village. Marta lives a real artisan
way of life. Her family does this
by embracing the landscape
hot or cold and can be oven-baked,
fried or microwaved. As well as
new cheese was aimed at improving and
being able to produce food
and what it has to offer. The
communities are tight in this area
being free from dairy, the product The maker of award-winning Renegade Monk and efficiently. and the people seem relaxed and
includes no soya, gluten, lactose, La Fresca Margarita, has added a bloomy white- In certain areas of the world happy. When I asked how could
nuts, preservatives or emulsifiers. rinded organic cheese to its repertoire. Feltham’s you can still find those farmers I get this cheese in the UK, she
“Having recently ventured into Farm’s Gert Lush is covered with a white, downy that are at one with the land and said that it was not for export. The
plant-based butter and cream, rind, similar to a Camembert or Brie. “Gert Lush their livestock. Recently, after production is limited to the needs
we’re committed to continue is a sophisticated, nuanced take on the classic visiting the Asturias for The World of her town and the markets that
innovating the dairy alternatives white-rinded cheese,” said Penny Nagle, director Cheese Awards, I was delighted she regularly attends.
category, and new flavours like the of Feltham’s Farm. “The rind is not chewy, nor is it too to be able to spend some time What I love about this
Le Rond Camembert prove our thick,” she added. The development of the fungus geotrichum candidum also exploring this fabulous region. area is that there is a real
mission to provide customers means the paste is fully broken down, which makes it “very unlike other For those of you that have understanding of the land. What
with 100% vegan alternatives that British bloomy rinds”. followed my column over the it gives is through the sheer
can be enjoyed by everyone,” said The name Gert Lush is taken from the West Country dialect for ‘very last year you will be aware that hard work of the people. If you
Bianca Harris, senior marketing lovely’, with gert, from Middle English, translating to great and lush meaning I do not speak highly of mass work hard and embrace the
manager at Violife. lovely or attractive. The new cheese is available to stock now. production and supermarket elements for all they give, you
foods. The artisan way of life is will be rewarded. Sometimes the
a different approach to food and year’s rewards may be smaller
beverage and has its roots in and others years larger. It is
the Fertile Crescent some 10-12 about subsistence for Marta and
thousand years ago. It was not the majority of the agricultural
really artisan, it was just how community in The Asturias.
things were done. The work When I stood outside of this
required to produce a good lovely old dairy I breathed deeply
harvest needed a community to and allowed the scenery to
pull together. It was simply a engulf me. I then felt immediately
way of life. at ease. If only we could take
In Northern Spain, in the more time with our produce
Asturias, you can find small and consider the environment.
villages that still embrace this We should only take from the
theory; communities living and earth what is needed. On the
working harmoniously together. back of COP26 the way we
One such cheesemaker is build our businesses needs to
Marta from Queseria Ca Sanchu be carefully considered. There
in the town of Ambás, part of is enough for us to work with in
the Municipality of Grau, who our communities. We really do
produces fine artisan cheese. not need to mass produce, and
The cheese she makes is an artisan lifestyle is not a new
D’Afuega’l Pitu, a lactic curd hip idea, it is how we began. It is
cheese that has many styles. A about taking from and giving back
soft cow’s curd cheese served to our community. As the lovely
within 48 hours, another that is food author Jenny Linford said,
six weeks old, and a third that is “time is the missing ingredient”
aged for two-and-a-half months and should be embraced with
and a rounded chestnut-shaped the respect it deserves.
specialityfoodmagazine.com
24
DISPLAYS
Cheese sellers can bring their in-store experience to life by
sparking customers’ imaginations with dazzling displays
F
rom towering stacks of everything you have at customers of the counter, with baskets or slate
clothbound Cheddar rounds in the hopes of pleasing every taste and even cake stands for our small
to oozing wedges of truffled bud, but cheese experts tell Speciality truckle cheeses at the very front.” If
Brie, there’s something undeniably Food that less can be more. Rory done well, providing different heights
eye-catching about artisan cheese. Mellis of IJ Mellis Cheesemongers and sizes of cheeses will help catch
But displays can quickly go from advises retailers not to crowd their the customer’s eye.
enticing, sales-boosting tools to cheeses. “In our stores, one thing I’m
distracting labyrinths for customers always trying to drill through is never Finding a flow
if mongers aren’t careful. put too much on the bench. We’ve While large rounds are great for
always had nice marble counters, drawing customers in, think small by
Less is more and I feel that the cheese needs a the tills. “What I was always taught
When fitting out your cheese counter, little bit of room to display the marble when I was first starting out is to put
there can be a temptation to throw counter a little bit and give people the your soft goat’s cheeses around the
opportunity to move from cheese to front of the till,” Rory says. “Anything
cheese, rather than looking at a block soft, eye-catching or unusual, and
MASTER DIGITAL of lots of different cheeses in one anything below 250 grams, always
DISPLAYS area,” he says. A less hectic display focus on putting a big tower of those
can still offer a vibrant delight for towards the till front, and try to keep
customers. “Don’t be afraid to put it nice and neat and uniform.” add a splash of colour, as well as tubs on chalkboards or even seasonal
With e-commerce going nowhere
nice, big rounds on there because Here, more is more. “If you put of Mascarpone and Ricotta,” Wendy arrangements around any big local
fast, it’s just as important to make
a good impression online as it is your cheese bench is the first thing out 20 logs of goat’s cheese you’ll says. “Presentation of cut cheese also celebrations. Seasonal events also
that the customer sees when they always sell about half of them. But adds interest depending on cheese offer a chance to refresh the look
in-store. Impress customers with
walk in the shop,” he adds. if you put out three, you’ll never sell shape and size, which all adds to the of the shop. “Towards the spring
strong photography, a user-friendly
Wendy Kammeier of the Corbridge any,” Rory adds. interesting and eye-catching display and summertime, we put out a lot
website and thorough cheese
descriptions with pairing ideas or Larder has learned first-hand that In the counter, cheeses should be we aspire to.” more softer cheeses, goat’s cheese
simple layouts are often best. “We arranged in a way that makes sense Cheesemongers typically have and goat’s curd,” Rory says. “The
even a personal anecdote about
tried what I call a ‘cheese theatre’ to the customer, for instance by type good success with local cheeses, biggest seasonal change for any
the cheese or more information
where we displayed the cheese or region. And don’t be shy about so don’t be afraid to put them cheesemonger is usually Christmas,
about the farm if it’s a British-made
quite dramatically and, in a way, arranging popular accompaniments pride of place in your shop and and we tend to create a couple of
variety. The key is making sure your
haphazardly. This didn’t resonate nearby for an easy upsell and a promote your local makers. Make displays with our most popular
website reflects the experience of
with our regular clientele, or our better-looking display. “We add boxes these cheeses shine with special cheeses. Creating two piles of these
visiting your shop. “If you have a
staff for that matter, so we returned of membrillo and fruits for cheese to displays, messages written out on the on the counter really gives us
website that doesn’t really reflect
how your business operates or what to our clean lines and organisation.”
Orderly displays can offer plenty
people can expect when they go
into the shop, then it can be quite of avenues for wowing customers Too much information on display just makes the
misleading,” Rory said. “We’ve with creative layouts, Wendy has
found. “We don’t have a flat display of
customer switch off. The information we give allows for a more
taken elements from our shops and
how we work and try to keep it quite cheese. We are lucky to have a quick informative ‘cheesy’ conversation, which in my book leads to a
turnaround, so we can afford to stack
simple [online].”
our cheeses sensibly high at the back more engaged customer and a successful cheese purchase
@specialityfood
25
CHEESE CARE 101
One element of the cheese display which cannot be left up to creative
interpretation is cheese care. Ensuring cheeses look their best with careful
attention throughout the day is key to securing sales. “Cheese is living, and
we should be kind to our cheese counters to ensure our babies look their
very best every day,” Wendy says. “We check, trim and re-wrap on a daily
basis to keep them in tip-top condition and looking as fresh as a daisy.”
Monitoring the deli counter temperatures constantly is crucial for healthy
cheese, but some products will need special attention. “Some cheeses
mould quite quickly and some crack. Both issues are easily resolvable by
wiping with paper towel or preventable by covering with a damp cloth,”
Wendy adds. “All these actions will make your cheese counter sing.”
INCREDIBLE MAPLE
INDULGENCE
looking after the planet and people
too,” says Jo Colman, grandson
TRACEY HUGHES of Summerdown’s founder, Sir
HENLEY BRIDGE Michael Colman.
Caring for the environment has
been at the heart of Summerdown
from the very start. “Farming
Chocolate is the pinnacle of luxury – but this year, for the future is at the core of
RICHARD TURNER
consumers are craving more than great taste Summerdown’s sustainability
strategy, so we’re always
OMBAR
and a pretty package thinking about our impact on the
environment, how to maintain a
thriving, sustainable ecosystem
Best of both worlds
P
icture an indulgent treat and Baruzzo, business development industry has historically been held and, vitally, how we can protect it
there is no doubt chocolate manager at BRIK Chocolate, is When great taste is a given, a back by a lack of innovation – but for years to come. The underlying
will come to mind. From changing. “In the past few years, I health or wellness twist can make a this is changing. “With innovation, aim of our business is to be
decadent, sweet spreads to silky, have seen a change in attitude and product jump out on-shelf. “I think we now have access to better, more regenerative; that is to say, we strive
smooth bars and from creamy milk consumer behaviour in purchasing more and more consumers want low natural ingredients, and delivering to make business decisions that
chocolate to deliciously bitter dark, chocolate. Taste is still the key factor or no sugar in their chocolate, and a chocolate treat that is healthier actively engage the restoration of
there’s variety aplenty to enjoy in influencing our purchasing, but this has been a growing trend for for you and tastes great is now a the environment and reduce our
the chocolate sector. And as fine today people are also considering many years,” says Sameer Vaswani, reality.” Increasingly, brands are negative impact on it,” Jo explains.
food retailers will know well, taste is the types of chocolates to eat for founder of healthy, vegan chocolate scrapping processed ingredients Some chocolate makers are
king. Yet, as conscious consumerism personal health, and purchasing in brand Prodigy. “More recently, for nutrient-rich ingredients and delving deep into the fine details
goes mainstream, shoppers are more consideration of social responsibility the rapid growth in plant-based natural sugars. For consumers of their carbon emissions. Ombar
and more often scrutinising the and the environment,” she says. and dairy-free eating means more who want to have their cake and recently launched a range of
labels of their favourite chocolates. As self-indulgence transforms to consumers are looking for those eat it too, these developments are chocolate which states the carbon
Sugar-free, palm-oil-free, gluten- conscious-indulgence, we take a options. For us, it’s been similar to game changers. footprint of the product on the label.
free, dairy-free, plastic-free – these closer look at how retailers can plant-based meat,” he explains. “A “We knew we wanted to do more to
free-from markers are the new excite their customers with the new huge number of consumers who An ethical choice make a positive impact, so we set
buzzwords shaking up the world generation of artisan chocolates, have made a conscious decision to Part and parcel of selling fine out to make a range of chocolate
of cocoa. while ensuring beloved classics go plant-based – either for health food today is ensuring products that was as sustainable as possible,”
Indulgence, explains Raffaella remain pride of place. or environmental reasons – have have top-notch sustainability says founder Richard Turner.
missed their childhood favourites.” and ethical credentials. This is of “The range has less than half the
Modern chocolates can even huge importance in the chocolate carbon emissions of ‘regular’ milk
offer health benefits in the guise
of functional ingredients like
superfoods, high-quality cocoa or We now have access to better, more
botanicals. “Too many consumers
believe that it is not possible to have
natural ingredients, and delivering a
a chocolate treat that tastes amazing chocolate treat that is healthier for you
and also is a healthier option,”
Sameer says. He believes that the and tastes great is now a reality
specialityfoodmagazine.com
28 2022 *
*
S
E
PE
AZIN
impressing and exciting customers STOCK
CIALI
with great flavours remains core CHECK
AG
to retailers’ chocolate offering.
T
M
Y
FOOD
“Chocolate is an accessible luxury
that we eat to treat ourselves for
our own gratification,” says BRIK
Chocolate’s Raffaella. Demand
for indulgence is on the rise, she
says, but rather than purchasing
large bars of chocolate, consumers
are buying smaller amounts of
chocolate that bring a larger dose
of indulgence. “Smaller mouthfeels OMBAR SUMMERDOWN PEPPERMINT
OAT M’LK FRUIT & NUT DARK CHOCOLATE CRISP BAR
of chocolate, perhaps of different
A moreish blend of crunchy almonds Single-estate peppermint with the
taste, texture and type, extends
and the fruity burst of juicy raisins. finest single-origin Colombian cocoa,
the time of the tasting experience,
Perfectly complemented by an oaty peppered with sugar crystals for a
meaning consumers will enjoy it
chocolate base. rewarding crunch.
more, improving the perception of
ombar.com summerdown.com
taste and satiety,” Raffaella says.
“Small portions are also associated
with a more premium image and
higher quality chocolates, with the
size of the pack also influencing
the occasion of consumption.”
Demand for comforting
indulgence peaked in the
pandemic, but this has petered out
as the ‘new normal’ takes shape.
“This isn’t to say the demand
for indulgence has disappeared
entirely, but perception of LOVE COCOA MILK OLLY’S WHITE CHOCOLATE
indulgence has shifted,” CHAMPAGNE TRUFFLES PRETZEL THINS
explains Richard. “‘Everything in Creamy milk ganache blended with Olly’s signature salted pretzel thins are
moderation’ has never been truer, fresh cream and Marc de Champagne, oven-baked before being smothered
and consumers are finding that in a milk and white chocolate shell. in 100% Belgian white chocolate.
a smaller amount of something lovecocoa.com ollys-ollys.com
indulgent brings more satisfaction
Whilst chocolate is considered an than a larger quantity of a less
indulgent alternative.”
indulgence, having impressive ethical “It’s about permissive
indulgence,” adds Summerdown’s
credentials lessens the guilt and makes Jo, “allowing yourself a treat
because you know the treat
consumers feel good about themselves contains only the finest
ingredients.” While luxury and
chocolate, and we’re proud to be so instead we’ve looked at ways in indulgence are changing for the
the first chocolate brand to state which we can take steps towards modern consumer, there is one
our carbon footprint on our offsetting our plastic.” thing that will always be true: a bar ENTO COLLECTIVE FIRETREE
packaging. At the moment, we’re Sameer has also strived to of chocolate, whether enjoyed in ENTOVEGAN BLEND COLLECTION GIFT BOX
one of a select few brands at the ensure Prodigy part of the plastic secret while the rest of the family A discerning, nutrient-dense The Collection contains all seven
forefront of the movement for solution rather than the problem. is out or shared amongst friends, entovegan blend made with only the single-estate varietals in a stunning
climate transparency, but we “From inception, we wanted to be a offers a simple way to brighten up finest grade non-alkalised cacao from gift box. Ranging from 69% to 100%
hope that knowing and showing a plastic-free brand. We were forced the everyday. the Democratic Republic of Congo. cocoa, grown in volcanic soil.
carbon footprint on-pack will soon to delay our launch by almost a year entocollective.com firetreechocolate.com
be adopted by the rest of the food in order to maintain this goal,” he
industry, helping consumers to admits. “Once we launched, we felt THE GLOBAL
make informed choices.” we needed to go one step further VEGAN
Indeed, transparency is a key and also help reduce the single-use
motivator for consumers today. plastic problem, so for every Prodigy CHOCOLATE
“Consumers want to know the Bar sold, we fund the clean-up of 10 MARKET SIZE IS
backstory of the brands they are single use plastic wrappers from the
enjoying so that they can share environment.” EXPECTED TO
their knowledge with their friends REACH $1.41BN
and on social media,” says Tracey Tasting the difference
Hughes, managing director of The industry’s shift towards BY 2028
Henley Bridge, the UK’s leading sustainability is a positive one, but SOURCE: RESEARCH AND MARKETS
independent chocolate supplier. PUMP STREET CHOCOLATE
SQUIRREL SISTERS CACAO
Belcolade, one of the group’s brands, ORANGE BROWNIE BITES OAT MILK 60% BAR
has launched its own Cacao-Trace A dairy-free milk chocolate made
TRENDING:
Award-winning, no-added sugar treats
programme, which is a transparent that will satisfy your tastebuds with Scottish oats, with a
payment scheme for cacao farmers. as well as your health. pleasingly fudgy bite.
“Whilst chocolate is considered
an indulgence, having impressive UNIQUE FLAVOURS squirrelsisters.com pumpstreetchocolate.com
@specialityfood
TREND WATCH 29
egan fish sounds like a
Sponsored by
V contradiction in terms.
Yet multinational food
companies are launching innovative,
From a climate
point of view wild
fake fish products onto the market fish is almost as
just as they’ve done with meat-free
burgers, and dairy-free milk and eco-friendly as a
cheese. Waitrose reported that sales The Life & Soul of the Pantry vegan diet with
of their vegan Plantlife range
– which includes vegan fish – are barely any footprint
up 21% compared with 2020.
and, if fished in
GIVE ME SOME FAUX FISH
EXAMPLES, PLEASE sensible volumes, an
How about calamari made from infinitely renewable
oyster mushrooms, or smoked
Zalmon made from thinly-sliced resource
carrots in a smoky marinade.
Waitrose sells Plantlife Thai-style
No Fish Cakes made with jackfruit frozen, not chilled and don’t lecture
and Ocado will deliver Vegan Zeastar • Buy good vegan sauces such as
Lemon Shrimpz, a frozen product. Inspired Vegan’s tartare
• Educate yourself about ethical
HAVE YOU SEEN FAUX FISH vegan brands
ON RESTAURANT MENUS? • Molly, 21, will love you forever if she
At the Turk’s Head pub in Penzance can order vegan fish and chips in
in September, we enjoyed their your café while Nan and Grandad are
bestselling vegan fish and chips eating mainstream cod and chips.
made by sprinkling banana blossom The fryer’s on anyway so it can’t be
– a south-east Asian fruit – with that difficult
seaweed and deep-frying it in batter. • If you succeed in creating an
Opened in May 2021, Holy Carrot affordable vegan smoked salmon
is a sleek new vegan restaurant bagel, put it on Instagram and the
VEGAN FISH
inside a spa in London’s fans will come
Knightsbridge. Diners can opt for
a ‘crab’ burger made from palm WILL THE TREND LAST?
hearts and lobster mushrooms, or Faux fish is still a novelty and we
cauliflower rice maki made with predict a backlash against ultra-
avocado and tomato ‘tuna’. processed foods. We agree with
Should you stock fashionable faux fish or serve it in your Simon Wright that manufacturers
WHAT’S BEHIND THE TREND?
Plant-based lifestyles. Only 1.9% of restaurant? And how do you ensure the real fish you sell must improve the nutritional
profile and use fewer, more natural
households contain a full-time vegan
(Kantar). However, the Vegan Society is sustainable, asks Sally-Jayne Wright ingredients. Let’s be optimistic.
Gluten-free bread has improved
predicts that by 2025, a quarter of hugely since the early days.
the population will be vegan or HOW CAN WE MAKE OUR personal view is that “too many rely craved more seaweed for a fishier Quality rises to the top.
vegetarian, and half flexitarian – IN-STORE FISH COUNTER on soy or pea protein which unless taste. Much of the pleasure came Meanwhile, a great-tasting vegan
people who eat animal foods on some MORE SUSTAINABLE? grown sustainably (i.e. with no GM from associated tastes and textures fish dish on your café menu can
days. Ethics. A Netflix documentary, Copy Hackney fishmongers, Fin or deforestation) are not sustainable – mushy peas, crisp batter and tangy make you a destination restaurant,
Seaspiracy, caused particular alarm. and Flounder, who have exchanged ingredients”. tartare sauce. especially if your area is poorly
The gist was there’s no longer any farmed and imported fish for that served and you appear on vegan
sustainable fish from the ocean. caught by small sea boats and WHAT’S ACTUALLY IN THOSE WHICH BRANDS DO forums. So shout about it.
inshore vessels. FAUX FISH FILLETS? YOU RECOMMEND?
IS THAT TRUE? Sell local and seasonal fish and It ranges from relatively simple The Times gave Moving Mountains’
Critics of Seaspiracy cited out-of-date promote lesser appreciated species ingredients like jackfruit, banana Fish Fillets five out of five stars, food
facts, unrealistic extrapolations and such as flounder, whiting and plaice. blossom, mushrooms, tofu and editors praising the flaky ‘meat’,
hidden agendas to sell vegan food. Other tips are to sell shellfish, crabs, Quorn, to less appetising-sounding subtle cod-like taste and crispy,
The Marine Stewardship Council, mussels and lobster – sustainable combinations such as pea, soya crunchy batter. Vegan expert, Richard
set up to certify sustainable fish, because of their abundance and and wheat protein, methyl cellulose Makin, on BBCGoodFood.com, praised
was obliged to defend itself on its position in the food chain. thickener, maize and wheat starch the delicate flavour and sweet-salty
website. “Fish stocks can recover Charles Redfern, founder of and sunflower oil. balance of Zalmon – see above. He
and replenish if they are managed Fish4Ever, suggests that, “from a said, “The texture isn’t identical to ONLY 1.9% OF
carefully for the long-term.” It climate point of view, wild fish is HOW DO THEY TASTE? salmon but we barely noticed this HOUSEHOLDS CONTAIN A
mentioned the many people around almost as eco-friendly as a vegan Customer reviews are mixed. We when (it was) layered on a bagel FULL-TIME VEGAN (KANTAR).
the world who rely on fishing for diet with barely any footprint and, enjoyed the novelty of banana with vegan cream cheese and dill.”
their livelihood.
HOWEVER, THE VEGAN
if fished in sensible volumes, an blossom fish and chips though We like Cavi-art, a seaweed-based SOCIETY PREDICTS THAT
infinitely renewable resource”. faux caviar from Denmark, ideal
BY 2025, A QUARTER OF
for vegan canapes.
HOW SUSTAINABLE THE POPULATION WILL BE
IS FAKE FISH? HOW CAN I MAKE THE VEGAN OR VEGETARIAN,
Simon Wright, who chairs the Quality MOST OF THE TREND? AND HALF FLEXITARIAN –
Food Awards judging panel, noted • Ask customers if they want to buy PEOPLE WHO EAT ANIMAL
many vegan fish entries this year. His vegan fish. Start cautiously with FOODS ON SOME DAYS
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32
COMMENTATORS
HOW TO SELL TO campaigning for policy change or
regulation, such as making food waste
reporting mandatory.”
CONSCIOUS
This independence is also what
Matthew says will allow for the fine
food industry to drive further change:
“The fine food sector is leading the way
MATTHEW RYMER in terms of honesty and transparency,
CONSUMERS
HAPPERLEY
and consumers are actively seeking
out retailers they can trust,” he says.
“But there is much more that should
be done to enable consumers to access
the information that they want at
the point of purchase. Because the
LOUISA ZIANE
TOAST ALE
No longer a niche audience, conscious consumers are sector is driven by independents who
can make swift decisions and take
taking up an increasing market share, and the fine food action on supply chains without long
decision trees, the sector is able to
sector is well placed to capitalise in the growth, take a clear lead.”
as Rachael Perrett discovers Value and accessibility
RICH FORD With so many companies competing
SHERLOCK STUDIO over process is not the same as for the attention of shoppers today,
authenticity of supply or production. how can you fine tune your branding
Consumers want to know where their and messaging to attract conscious
food comes from, what is in it and consumers without alienating
have the assurance that, if they are others? First of all, it’s important
paying a premium, they are getting to consider your target audience,
what they think they are getting!” keeping in mind that conscious
MARK JONES AND ANA MARTINS
PANTREE Whether they’re looking for consumers are no longer a standalone,
organic produce, meat alternatives or niche group, as Mark Jones and
zero-waste goods, it’s safe to say the Ana Martins, co-founders of online
rom COP26 to Netflix’s marketplace Pantree, explain. “Almost
F
conscious consumer actively goes
Seaspiracy, sustainability beyond the average shopper before every customer wants to make
has made top headlines making a purchase, as Louisa Ziane, sustainable choices if they can do so
recently – and it’s leading to chief operating officer at Toast Ale, without having to make significant
changes in consumer behaviour explains. “People are increasingly compromises on convenience, price
and consumption. That said, being making purchasing decisions that Louisa explains, it gives brands collaborating with bakery suppliers, or quality. Practices that would
‘eco aware’ is certainly not a new reflect a desire to take personal the opportunity to share data and other breweries and fellow B Corp previously have been targeted to niche
trend. Indeed, many in the industry action. They may not be ready to knowledge with others to help meet food brands,” Louisa explains. audiences, such as eco-packaging
have noticed a gradual shift in make major changes, and so are consumer expectations while also “Collaboration means we can learn or carbon neutral delivery, are
the way people shop. With an looking for brands that meet their demanding more change from within from each other and improve at a increasingly a standard expectation.
increasing awareness of the impact needs and have a positive impact. the industry. faster pace – in the climate crisis, The pool of consumers being alienated
our purchases have on the planet They will spend time researching “Toast has been a driving sustainability shouldn’t be a USP. by conscious or ethically focused
and other people comes a rise in and trialling, engage with the brand force in the beer industry to raise That might mean sharing data and messaging is shrinking rapidly.
conscious consumers hoping to make on social media, and pay more if the public awareness of issues such knowledge on carbon footprints, “That said,” Mark and Ana
a difference through more considered product tastes good and does good. as food waste and demonstrate partnering to create innovative continue, “speciality foods, artisanal
purchases. But what does this mean “This has been a slow, growing practical actions everyone can take, circular economy products, or jointly vendors and products or brands
for the fine food sector? movement for many years,” Louisa
adds, “with surges following key
From farm to fork moments, including the Blue Planet
According to Matthew Rymer, effect that shifted consciousness
managing director of Happerley, about plastic, significant investment
the movement to drive provenance, in plant-based food companies, and
honesty and transparency across food most recently COP26 hosted in the
and drink supply chains, a conscious UK. It’s a combination of moments
consumer essentially refers to a savvy like these, the popularity of sharing
shopper who “thinks about what they sustainable consumption behaviour
are buying, where it has come from content on social media, and the
and the implications, from farm to increase in choices as brands big
fork, of that buying decision”. and small have responded that
“Consumers are becoming more is driving increasingly conscious
savvy,” Matthew says. “They’re purchase decisions.”
beginning to understand that, for
example, a product labelled ‘local Staying flexible
strawberry jam’ might not in fact USPs like provenance, short supply
contain local strawberries but pulp chains and ethical processes are
shipped from China.” already at the heart of the fine food
While many consumers are industry, meaning indies are well
now familiar with certified labels placed to capitalise on the rise of
such as The Lion Mark, Red Tractor, conscious consumerism. And with
Fairtrade and Soil Association, the 62% of consumers taking a brand’s
conscious consumer wants to take eco-credentials into consideration
things further. when choosing which food and
“Although these are valuable drink products to buy, according to a
schemes and provide assurance on 2021 report by Hearts & Science, it’s
their own merits,” Matthew says, certainly worth considering how you
“they don’t go far enough in giving can tap into this market segment.
consumers the information that Being independent automatically
they are now demanding. Assurance allows for greater flexibility. As
62%
actions to reduce their impact and “They want to dig deeper
that place priority on sustainable price, convenience and indie retailers increase their awareness. With Eco and see evidence. The
practices can have the association can coexist.” Actives already worth £37bn to the availability of information
of higher price points and less As a brand, it can be difficult British grocery market, it’s safe to online, particularly from
inclusiveness. Therefore, it is knowing where to start, and there are say conscious consumerism is here brands in the fine food
essential to demonstrate the value certainly no easy fixes, as Rich Ford, to stay. sector, makes that easier
OF CONSUMERS TAKE A
and accessibility of ‘shopping strategy director at Sherlock Studio, “There is a real opportunity BRAND’S ECO CREDENTIALS than in the past.”
small’. At Pantree, over 70% of the a branding, design and copywriting for buyers to be more discerning, INTO CONSIDERATION WHEN You may be eager to
products are £20 or less, and thanks studio, explains. But when it comes balancing consumer demands CHOOSING WHICH FOOD AND share the message of your
to our unique fulfilment model, to reducing our impact, it’s certainly and the need to make a profit with DRINK PRODUCTS TO BUY business’ eco credentials
SOURCE: HEARTS & SCIENCE 2021
shoppers can buy from as many worth the consideration. “It’s easy to real supply chain traceability and FORCES OF CHANGE SERIES with conscious consumers,
small sellers as they want, all with switch to biodegradable packaging, authentic provenance,” Matthew says. but it’s important to go
one low shipping fee and a 48-hour but that doesn’t fix the problem if “More widespread adoption of supply about it the right way.
81%
delivery turnaround, proving that people don’t have a compost heap or chain validation, like Happerley The new Green Claims
Code, developed by the
Competition and Markets
Authority (CMA), identifies
key areas to measure your
OF ADULTS THINK THERE claims against, so you can
IS LOTS OF JARGON be sure any green claims
WHEN IT COMES TO are genuine and won’t
SUSTAINABILITY AND BEING mislead buyers.
ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY
SOURCE: YEO VALLEY ORGANIC
ONEPOLL SURVEY
specialityfoodmagazine.com
34
COMMENTATORS University to run a trial that proved
eating just a heaped teaspoon of
wholegrain mustard every day can
help achieve healthy blood glucose
and cholesterol levels. “This humble
hero of the larder and the table not
only makes food taste great but it also
JADE HOAI does you good. So there’s now another
WHOLE FOODS MARKET reason to love those jars of mustards
on your shelves!”
Retailers can make the most
of traditional products with all-
natural formulations or powerhouse
ingredients with signage and
BETHAN WALLACE HIGSON
storytelling in-store. These appeal
MOTHER ROOT to customers who prefer to get their
health benefits the old-fashioned
way. As Becky asks, “What could be
better than discovering your favourite
meal or condiment is actually good
for you?” Be a sounding board for
customers, and a source of inspiration
BECKY VALE
TRACKLEMENTS too. “As shoppers look to increase the
healthiness of their diet, they’re likely
HEALTH
Providing pairing suggestions gives
some much sought-after inspiration
and a new and different way of
TONI VERNELLI
VEGANUARY using old favourites to liven up new
ingredients,” Becky says.
OPPORTUNITY
“We are beginning to connect
the dots that what we put in our
bodies (more than what we take out)
has a powerful effect on how we
feel, both physically and mentally,”
ANNE-MARIE CANNON Bethan adds. “Products that have
RH AMAR Vegan and health food are here to stay. Can speciality functional benefits can be particularly
retailers put their own stamp on the trend? appealing as they offer the customer
an extra feel-good factor. But this is
provided they deliver on taste too
with added prebiotics and ingredients incorporate finer ingredients, which Clever positioning as that remains the number one
that highlight sustainability and is evident through the findings in our While more and more products tick consideration.” But don’t relegate
MAX SPIEGELBERG giving back to the environment,” says 2022 trends report. Some products the boxes for both health and flavour, these to a ‘health food’ section in a
GREENYPEEPS
Jade Hoai, director of purchasing and that fit into this category would sometimes all it takes to transform an dark corner of the shop – instead,
operations at Whole Foods Market. be Aduna Cleanse Tea made with item on your shelf from deli favourite retailers should dot these products
I
t’s a well-established fact that Products with words like ‘prebiotic’ moringa mint and nettle, Gimber to health food superhero is smart throughout the store. “Stay core to
more Brits are taking a mindful on their label haven’t traditionally Ginger Juice, an alcohol-free organic product positioning and storytelling. your values on taste, but make sure
approach to their food and drink been the domain of fine food shops, drink made from ginger, lemon and “The pursuit of wellness has become to put interesting food and drinks
choices. Forget the fact that January and it can be intimidating territory herbs, and Osius Bone Broth, organic a powerful driver with shoppers on shelf that tick some of the key
is the time of healthy habit-making, for shop owners who aren’t health bone broth made with turmeric.” looking for food to boost mental as functional and health benefits people
moderation and Veganuary pledges experts but find their customers While these products have strong well as physical health. And what are most concerned about today.”
– even beyond these temporary increasingly seeking out food and health leanings, they also make use we’re seeing is that this isn’t just These include gut health, alcohol
campaigns, the desire for food that drink that enables them to live a of top-quality ingredients that have limited to ‘health foods’ or powders moderation and healthy sources of
nourishes the mind, soul and body, as healthier life. the buzz of superfood status, as well and supplements,” says Becky protein and fibre, Bethan says.
well as the planet, is gathering pace Luckily, there’s a growing band of as stand-out packaging and a strong Vale of artisan condiments brand
with consumers. brands that are blending sustainable sense of provenance. Bethan Wallace Tracklements. The vegan movement
NielsenIQ called health and credentials, health-boosting Higson, founder of switchel brand “Our ancestors knew a thing or Another area of health and wellness
wellness the single most powerful ingredients and premium flavours to Mother Root, says these are principles two about the medicinal properties that can be a big money-maker for
consumer force, with 48% of global create products at the intersection that the fine food and health of some foods: enter wholegrain retailers is vegan food and drink.
consumers saying they make of the fine food sector and the health food sectors both believe in. “We mustard!” Wholegrain mustard, Becky The sector is full of innovation and
proactive health and wellness and wellness movement. Jade says understand that food and ingredients explains, was historically used as excitement as producers seek to
choices on a regular basis. But what Whole Foods has watched these with provenance, slow grown or a cure-all, from healing wounds to develop top meat replacements as
do these abstract desires look like in changes in the market play out. products made with few ingredients treating colds. In order to understand well as stand-alone veggie hero
action in a weekly shop? “Think soft “We’ve definitely seen an increase are often not only the tastiest, but also these benefits, Tracklements products. Research commissioned
drinks with probiotics, fizzy tonics in demand for healthy foods that the best for us, too.” teamed up with Cardiff Metropolitan by Atura Proteins revealed that 56%
@specialityfood
35
of food and drink brand owners way that fine food products are often brand manager of Cooks&Co at
and manufacturers are most ‘accidentally healthy’, so too can they RH Amar. “Our Cooks&Co Banana 2022 *
*
S
likely to invest their new product be ‘accidentally vegan’. “Most people Blossom, which is up 237% over the
PE
AZIN
development budget in plant-based will have assumptions about which past three months, is a fantastic fish STOCK
CIALI
products in 2022, meaning even more foods are likely to be vegan and replacement, and an easy swap for CHECK
AG
innovation is on the way. which aren’t, so they might walk right fish and chips.”
T
M
Y
FOOD
January is the time of year when past something that is suitable and Vegan and healthy food products
the spotlight is turned to vegan delicious because they never thought are no longer a niche. “As more
innovation, thanks to the industry it could be vegan. This is where and more brands adopt health- and
campaign Veganuary. According to signposting from the retailer is so wellness-focused messaging and
Toni Vernelli, its international head important – both on the shelf but also NPD, we will find this becoming
of communications and marketing, in the window or on signs outside the the baseline across a number of
more than 582,000 people from 209 shop,” Toni says. “During January, categories,” says Max Spiegelberg,
countries and territories took part in displaying all of your vegan products marketing director at eco tea brand
Veganuary last year, and this year is in one area is a great idea so it’s easy Greenypeeps. “Soon we may well
set to be even bigger. “It has become for those deliberately seeking out see prominent, health and wellness COOKS&CO TRACKLEMENTS ROBUST
much more mainstream, with people vegan goods to find. The rest of the shorthand symbols as an alternative
BANANA BLOSSOM WHOLEGRAIN MUSTARD
year it’s better to keep vegan products form of nutritional or calorie
The perfect addition to a variety of Earthy, piquant and utterly delicious.
from all demographics taking part
in with similar products but clearly labelling appearing on packaging
meat-free dishes. Particularly good as Stir through cheese sauce or mash
and businesses from every sector
label them as vegan,” Toni continues. guiding consumers in their
a fish replacement, coated in batter for a robust tang and an
getting involved,” Toni says. Jade
While Veganuary is a huge event, purchasing decisions. New wellness
and shallow fried. attractive speckle.
agrees that Veganuary has become
with flexitarianism pegged as a
rhamar.com tracklements.co.uk
a significant event for retailers. “We sub-categories will spring up
stock over 5,000 vegan products major trend for 2022, there’s good throughout the supermarket aisles.
and just in the past year we’ve seen reason to invest in vegan year- It’s already happening in snacking,
an increase in listings of vegan round. And beware of putting all ready meals, hot and cold beverages
products. With more people taking your stock in meat replacements. and juices. Will it be long before we
part in Veganuary each year, we’re Digging deeper into the vegan sector see widespread health and wellness
finding that consumers are looking reveals veg-based products that are propositions and messaging across
for alternative food offerings that are easy to cook with too. “Shoppers are other categories such as soups, dairy
not only unique and trend-driven but looking to reduce their meat intake and even desserts?” he asks. Health,
don’t require them to go out of their and choosing easy-to-cook and wellness and plant-based eating will
way in both time and money.” convenient plant alternatives that undeniably be part of the fine food
Indeed, while innovation is huge can help them make a difference,” industry’s ‘new normal’. Is your
in the plant-based sector, in the same says Anne-Marie Cannon, senior shop ready?
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specialityfoodmagazine.com
36
THE GOAT SHED
APPETITE ME
MAKE YOUR
SPACE PAY
Spotted potential for expansion in your business? Great!
So what happens next? Anna Blewett finds out
COMMENTATORS upon thousands of pounds upgrading Dairy, which expanded into new
their food hall offering to include premises in 2017, has just opened
a chocolate theatre from Pierre the doors on its newly-extended
Marcolini, you don’t need to invest shop enabling “more cheeses, less
quite so much to make a big impact. queues”. For others, expansion allows
So where do you start? a lucrative food service element. So
what suits you? “Let’s say you had
MARK ELLIS Is it feasible? a farm shop that was 500 square every farm shop operator has the How will it look?
APPETITE ME A feasibility study, whether an feet, now it’s 3,000 square feet,” says skill set or the time to run a butchery, You’ve visualised a new space
informal bit of digging or a deep dive Mark. “Stocking it means choosing but also not everyone has the time. extending your existing shop floor,
into the economics of fine food retail, products that will drive a margin you A lot of our clients farm during the but what do you do with it? “The trick
is the kind of due diligence that will can make a profit on. As an existing day, so when it comes to making is not to just fill it with stock,” says
decide whether your project sinks or operator you have a good idea what their farm shop a more interesting Mark. “Yes, in the short term you
swims. For Mark, the conditions are currently sells, but it’s a case of what destination it can work really well might get a very high density of sales
definitely right nationally for indie more can you sell. to outsource some of the work, work but in the long run you’ll damage
MATT WHELAN
FIELDFARE foods to expand, you just have to find “That’s where we come in with with local suppliers who might be your brand. What people want in
out if that’s the case locally too. “You the data – should you to expand into interested in running a concession farm shops is space to be able to
only have to go into supermarkets fresh food, open a butchery... Not counter.” navigate around. To look, touch,
now to see the potential for indies,”
says Mark.
“The supply chain is still not good.
There are still big gaps with drivers,
HONESTY BOX been working on our new cheese getting a rural development grant
SAM STEGGLES
THE GOAT SHED staff and stock... a lot of people have SHED > 8,000FT factory, so we swept it out and at the right time which helped. In
fallen out of love with supermarkets FARM SHOP moved our shed in. People kept March ‘20 we had three people
and would rather buy from their local asking us for more things – flour, working here and now have
area. Even so, in terms of feasibility Sam Steggles shares bread – so it grew and grew. We about 33. One person’s sole job
it’s very important to look at your put up another building and now we is to greet cars and show them
the story of The Goat
A
re you sensing the potential region and the local competition. have a farm shop and a restaurant where to park. We started with
of an exciting expansion For existing businesses it’s a case of
Shed, Honingham
serving breakfasts and lunches, a calculator and a pen; now we
in your bricks and mortar developing an offer that’s different Our main business plus a pop-up German market in an have EPOS across the whole site.
business? Dreaming of a bustling enough from what’s already there. is making cheese, adjoining barn that’s got 25 wooden There’s a huge amount of risk
coffee counter, a lucrative new chiller Sounds easy, but it really isn’t. One so when Covid huts brimming with Christmassy gifts in this, and it’s been a baptism
area or just a few extra aisles to of the key things is making sure hit a lot of our and decorations. of fire. There are plenty if retail
ease congestion in-store? You’re not the shop is the right size, you have trade dropped off At the start I think a lot of places locally – Sainsbury’s
alone. Mark Ellis, project manager at the right equipment to display overnight. We had customers came to us because they and M&S, Waitrose, another
rural retail developers Appetite Me, the product, and the right kind of a little garden shed in the yard felt safe. We had a great big barn farm shop 15 miles away... The
found this year’s Farm Innovation product.” selling our cheese and other that’s really airy with lots of space. difference here is that we’re more
Show buzzing with interest around bits on an honesty box system; We’ve been really fortunate that of a destination than a shop. We
expansion. “So many estates, farms Where are the people were struggling to get we’ve designed it in such a way take very few orders online –
and garden centres are looking to cashable benefits? things from the supermarket that we can continue with that. everyone wants to come! People
expand their food offer, or get a food If your USP is offering the finest so we started buying pasta, loo The farm shop cost £250,000. can see the goats in the paddock,
offer launched, because they know selection in a particular market, roll or whatever to help locals. We have a very understanding bank have coffee and lunch... it really is
the demand is out there,” he says. expansion can give you the On the same site builders had manager, and were very fortunate in an amazing experience.
While Harrods in Knightsbridge, opportunity to consolidate your
London no doubt spent thousands position. For example The Courtyard
@specialityfood
37
DRIVE EFFICIENCY
Extra running costs are a consideration when expanding your shop
floor, but there are efficiencies to be made. “Energy price rises affect
a whole store – from the chillers, to the tills to the café – but we have
highly-efficient glass-top freezers that reduce the loss of energy,”
says Matt. “Offering frozen also delivers efficiency at that step
above; deliveries are less frequent, wastage for your business and
also the customer is reduced. We’ve been champions of loose food
since Richard and Ann started the business, and we’re working with
magazines like Olive and BBC Good Food to drive people to choose
loose at the freezers. The whole proposition is ‘take only what you
want’ which fits very nicely with customer priorities. It’s all about quality
first, rather than quantity.”
ADD-ON SALES
With extra space enabling a more diverse range of SKUs, there’s a
great opportunity to up the income from your existing footfall. “We work
with very small suppliers to produce something really special, whether
that’s our croissants that home cooks can prove in the evening to make
a really fluffy breakfast pastry, or our rainbow fries made from parsnip
and carrot, or our new pastel de nata...” Capturing your shoppers’
imagination with a taste of the unexpected could really make your new
space pay.
specialityfoodmagazine.com
38
5 MINUTES WITH
wellness and provenance takes
us. Consumers are getting more
involved in knowing what they are
URVASHI AGARWAL, FOUNDER OF JP’S ORIGINALS eating/drinking and cultivating
FINAL
more refined tastes.
for themselves after much trial and
error as entrepreneurs. Their work TEA OR COFFEE?
ethic, persistence and passion for Tea, tea, tea! I started JP’s Originals
what they do inspires me daily.
CALL
after cutting my coffee addiction.
I
t’s hard to believe that another year has come and gone, and the university. The stores were dark, crumble, followed by a JP’s Original
pandemic continues to rumble on. Although it feels like 2019 was just music was shocking (and loud) and Soul Soother, of course.
yesterday, we’re jumping into 2022 with both feet – and we have no you would leave your shift smelling
doubt independent retailers are doing the same following another busy like their men’s signature fragrance. WHAT’S YOUR MOTTO?
Christmas season. Persistence, patience, positivity.
A new year offers a time to set new goals and resolutions. What areas WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE
of your shop have you been neglecting? What’s your biggest priority for WHAT WOULD YOU BE PART OF THE JOB? WHAT’S THE WEIRDEST THING
2022? Do you need to improve the customer experience on your website DOING IF YOU WEREN’T Knowing how much of a difference YOU’VE EVER EATEN?
or refresh the layout of your shop? What new products will you try this IN THE FOOD INDUSTRY? JP’s has made to so many of our Pigs’ trotters. Never again.
year? Setting a plan out on paper can make your intentions come to life. I would continue my ‘other’ job at loyal customers.
They’re no longer buzzing around your head with your everyday, arm’s Stone World, distributing marble to WHAT’S YOUR
architects and interior design projects. AND YOUR LEAST FAVOURITE? FAVOURITE BOOK?
length to-do list as half-baked ideas or snippets of a thought –
Having to take a greater interest in Shoe Dog by Phil Knight. I really
they’re concrete.
WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST JOB? logistics off the back of recent supply savoured this book, reading chapters
Could your shop use a new lick of paint or a marketing refresh?
A receptionist, and then assistant, chain issues. to give myself a motivational boost.
Maybe it’s time to get started on that refurb you’ve been putting off
at a city law firm.
for years (tips for this on page 36). Your plans might not be on a grand SWEET OR SAVOURY?
HOW ABOUT THE
scale, but simple tweaks can be equally game-changing. Is 2022 the year WHAT INSPIRES YOU? FOOD INDUSTRY? My current guilty pleasure is a lemon
you finally learn everything you can about SEO or make your first ever My parents. They arrived in the UK in I’m interested to see where the curd Longboys doughnut with a cup
Instagram post? their late 20s and carved out a niche current interest in sustainability, of JP’s Earl Grey – can’t go wrong.
There are endless ways to improve your business, but at the heart
of everything is the passion and spirit you bring to your shop. It’s
something we hear about time and time again that makes this sector
so special. Whatever you choose to focus on this year – be it a physical
upgrade or improving your technical mastery – we hope you’ll take us
along on your journey. We love to hear what our readers are doing and
what’s important to them. Are you looking for advice on website building
or tips on reviving tired displays? Let us know and we will endeavour
to bring you the answers. We also want to celebrate with you, so tell us
about your new openings and your big plans for 2022.
We love hearing from our readers. Do you have a story to share or
expertise to pass on? Please get in touch with us via
courtney.goldsmith@aceville.co.uk
BE CONNECTED
@SpecialityFood
linkedin.com/company/
speciality-food
specialityfoodmagazine
@specialityfood
LAST WORDS 39
The final word on fine food
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
TRIED & TESTED
BODHA ROSE AND CARDAMOM of their primary ingredients, black
Thanks to the growing alcohol eyed peas, BEPPS are not only full of
moderation movement (hello, Dry January tangy, rich barbecue flavour, but they
participants!), the drinks sector is poised for are also vegan, gluten-free and 90
a refresh. Mocktails, low and no beverages calories or less per serving, making
and grown-up soft drinks are spilling into them a perfect stock for health-conscious shoppers.
the market with fantastic flavours and beppssnacks.com
innovative ideas, and Bodha is no different.
Crafted with Damask rose and fragrant ST MAUR ELDERFLOWER LIQUEUR
cardamom, plus botanical extracts, this drink is It’s always a pleasure to discover an artisanal
indulgence in a can. Plus, they were designed to be alternative to a favourite food or drink, so I was
enjoyed alongside pan-Asian and Middle Eastern food, delighted to discover St Maur: an elderflower
so customers will have a brand new tipple to try on liqueur made using elderflowers gathered
their curry nights. from the producers’ – The Earl and
bodhadrinks.co.uk Countess of Yarmouth – ancient family-
owned woodland in Warwickshire. This
BEPPS POPPED BBQ tipple is beautifully balanced with notes
It might be January, but I’m already daydreaming of red fruit and is pleasingly versatile,
ahead to summer picnics and sunny gatherings with and is just as delicious used as the
friends and family (British weather dependent). Of
course, that means thinking about the contents of
my picnic basket too, and I already have a flavourful
star of a cocktail as it is topped with
sparkling wine for a simple, THE ITALIAN UPSELL
inclusion in BEPPS Popped BBQ. Named after one
party-ready drink.
drinkstmaur.com
We explore how retailers can boost their
Italian food and drink sales in 2022
east coast from Belhaven Lobster.
THE INDEPENDENT
I
t’s the time of year for to support small businesses and
They’re a small company, and we resolutions and goal-setting upgrade their purchases where
SHOPPER
were introduced by a mutual friend sessions, and for diets and they can – for instance, forking
who was seriously impressed by healthy eating pledges. When out on the flavour of Italy through
their ethics and product. It’s the best consumers swear off chocolate and brands like Mutti.
seafood we tasted. indulgences and vow to eat their The proof is in the pudding
Tomas Gormley, co-owner and joint head chef The Free Company is a small vegetables, cut down on takeaways – or pasta. Explain clearly what
regenerative farm based in the
of Heron, Leith and cook meals at home. Out, once makes a product like artisan olive
Pentland Hills just within the city again, come the bulky bags of dried oil so special, offer a taste with a
limits. Run by three friends, they pasta and the jars of rich ragu. As a hunk of freshly baked bread, and
are moving away from traditional simple, flavourful dish, it’s hard to your customers will be coming
H
eron is a relaxed fine producers in our local area farming methods to regenerative think of a better option. back for more. Retailers can also
dining restaurant who are disrupting traditional practices to improve the quality Maybe your customers are some sing the praises of superfood-
serving an a la supply chains and selling of produce, whilst protecting and of the many UK shoppers who rich Mediterranean diets, which
carte menu, with views direct to restaurants. preserving the landscape. Our meat pushed the boat out with a pizza are shown to reduce the risk of
looking out to the Water We know where our suppliers, MacDuff Butchers, invited oven this year, or they could be developing conditions like high
of Leith and the Firth of meat, cheeses and fresh us to their abattoir, and it was great experimenting in making their blood pressure and cholesterol
Forth beyond. After starting produce are coming from as a chef to see how butchers work own pasta. These new-to-them as well as heart disease. Showing
a pop-up fine dining home delivery because we have been able to to break down a carcass for the best recipes are easy to indulge in customers that healthy eating
service in the pandemic called Bad visit our suppliers before opening quality cuts for us to prepare in the January as there are so many doesn’t have to be flavourless will
Seeds, my business partner Sam and discuss new product launches, restaurant. They champion unusual ingredients which suit the annual go down a treat this time of year.
Yorke and I decided to open our seasonal varieties and create a cuts of meat. In East Lothian, health-kick. Waitrose’s 2022 Food Explain just how easy it is to
very own restaurant where we could menu inspired by our surroundings. Phantassie Organic Farm provides & Drink Report sung the praises of turn an Italian dish vegan and
both be head chefs. We came to visit Having worked in Edinburgh our tomatoes, summer squash tinned fish as sales of mackerel and you’ll win the favour of Veganuary
a restaurant space on The Shore restaurants before launching our and courgettes. We’ve had great anchovies both jumped 17% over followers, too.
and immediately knew this was the own, both Sam and I were lucky to support from East Coast Cured, the last year, while tuna sales shot Italian cuisine is endlessly
perfect home for Heron. already have great relationships with whose charcuterie jungle curing up 500% during the first half of 2020, flexible and whatever the season
We describe our approach to local growers, fisherman, butchers room is less than a mile from the thanks to the product’s versatility or reason, consumers will keep
using ingredients as farm to table. and farmers. For example, our restaurant, and our bread comes and simplicity – just pop open and coming back to their favourites.
We are so lucky to have such shellfish, lobster and crab come from from Company Bakery, one of the pop in your pasta. By showing them why fine
an inspiring roster of passionate Dunbar just a short drive down the best in Edinburgh. With many consumers feeling food shop products stand
the bite of price inflation, it’s head and shoulders above
We know where our meat, cheeses and fresh produce are time to shout about the benefits anything they could find at
of authentic Italian products. a supermarket, retailers will
coming from because we have been able to visit our suppliers Despite price pressures, consumers win loyal customers
have still shown an inclination for 2022.
before opening and discuss new product launches, seasonal
varieties and create a menu inspired by our surroundings Are you passionate about Italian food and drink? Get in
touch via courtney.goldsmith@aceville.co.uk.
specialityfoodmagazine.com