Fibre fineness

The fibre fineness is expressed in wt. per unit length or length per unit weight.
According to “Textile Institute”, the fineness of cotton, silk and manufactured
fibres is usually expressed in terms of average linear density.
A single fibre has variable cross-section along its length and varies in cross-
section shape from fibre to fibre. To overcome their effect in calculating
fineness, same index of fineness is derived.
Mass = Volume x Density
= Cross-section area x length x density.
For a known length or unit length,
Mass α Cross-sectional area.
For this suitable fineness index is taken by measuring the wt. of a known length
of fibre is called linear density and this is expressed in terms of wt. per unit
length.
Hence, fineness can be calculated.
Importance of fineness:
1. Lower irregularity of yarn:
With a greater number of fibres in the cross-section the basic irregularity is
reduced. The finer the fibre the higher the number and the lower the irregularity.
Fine fibre gives more regular yarn than the coarse fibre.

2. Uniformity of count:
A fine fibre can be spun to finer than coarse fibre measurement of fineness. In
other words the finer the fibre, the higher the yarn count will be.

3. Uniformity of strength:
In a given cross-sectional area, if a given count is spun a fine and coarse fibre,
a more and a stronger yarn will result from the fine fibre because of being large
no. of finer fibre.

Mahmuda Chowdhury
Lecturer, Dept of TE
BUFT Page 1
 4. Uniform of fabric characteristics:
As fine fibre gives more uniform yarn, so it gives good quality fabric with
uniform property.

5. Less twist:
The finer the fibre the greater the total surfaces area available for inter fibre
contact and consequently, less twist is needed to provide the necessary
cohesion.

6. Spinning performance:
The fineness of the fibre affects several mechanical properties and therefore
influences the behaviour of the fibre during processing.
7. Good appearance:
The finer yarn produced by finer fibre is good appearance.
8. Less neps:
In the finer yarn, less neps present.

System / Unit of measuring fineness:

The fineness of cotton fibre is measured by following two systems:

1. British System:
In this system, the linear density is either the fibrmewt, per cm or the hair wt.
per cm, H.
Here the unit of wt.= milligram x 10-5
And the unit of length = cm.
The unit of fineness = H x 10-5 mg/cm.
Example: The fibre wt. per cm for an American upland cotton may be 192 i.e.
192mg x 10-5/cm
2. American System:
In this system, the linear density is expressed in microgram per inch.
Here, the unit of wt. = microgram (gm x 10-6)
The unit of length = inch.
Example: the linear density of American Upland would be 4.9 i.e. 4.9
microgram per inch.

Mahmuda Chowdhury
Lecturer, Dept of TE
BUFT Page 2
In this system, fineness is expressed in micronaire.

Relation between two fineness measuring systems:

American linear density = fibre wt in gm x 10-6 / inch
= A x 10-6 gm / inch
British linear density = fibre wt. in mg x 10-5 / cm
= fibre wt. in gm x 10-3 x 10-5 / cm
= H x 10-8 gm/cm
= H x 10-8 x 2.54 gm / inch
We have, A x 10-6 = H x 10-8 x 2.54
A = H x 10-2 x 2.54
This is the derived relationship between them.
Mathematics
1. An American cotton has a fineness of 4.1 MIC. Find the value in H.
Solution:
Given, Fiber Fineness in American System is 4.1 Mic
Therefore, A= HX10-2X2.54
A 4.1
H= −2 = −2 = 161.42 gm/inch
2.54 X 10 2.54 X 10

2. An Egyptian cotton has a fineness of 170H. What is its value in Mic?

Solution: A/Mic= HX10-2X2.54 = 170X10-2X2.54 = 4.318= 4.3

Principle of fibre fineness measurement:

1. Gravimetric method.
2. Optical method.

Mahmuda Chowdhury
Lecturer, Dept of TE
BUFT Page 3
 3. Air flow method.
4. Vibroscope method

Air Flow Method:

Principle:
In this method, fibre fineness is measured by air flow. If large amount of air is
blown, the fibre will be coarse and if small amount of air is blown, the fibre will
be fine. — The method based on this principle.
Procedure:
 A sample of known weight is taken and compressed in a cylinder to a
known volume and subjected to an air current at a known pressure.
 The rate of air flow through the porous plug of fibre is measured.
 Suppose, two cylinders of similar dimensions were filled with:
a) A few cylinder rods of large diameter.
b) Many rods of small diameter.
 If air were blown through the two cylinders at the same pressure, it would
be finding that the rate of air flow through (b) was less than through (a).

Mahmuda Chowdhury
Lecturer, Dept of TE
BUFT Page 4
  The reason is that the air flowing through (b) has more rod surface to
flow past.
 The difference in the rate of air flow is a measure of the difference in the
surface area of the large diameter and small diameter rods. This leads us
to consider the specific surface.

Calculation:
Specific surface is defined as the ratio of surface area to volume.
Surface Area
i.e Specific surface = Volume

let the volume of the cylinder, V= Cross-section area, A x Length, L

d2
= πX XL Here, A= π X ¿)2
4

And surface area of cylinder = π X d X L

πdL
Therefore, specific surface, S = π X d 2 X L
4
4 1
= πdL X 2 X
L
πXd

= 4/d

perimeter of the cross section

The ratio is equal to the ratio of = Area of the cross section
πd
= πX d 2
2 ()
1
So, S α d

For fibers of circular cross-section specific surface is inversely proportional to

the fibre diameter. Therefore by measuring the rate of air flow under controlled

Mahmuda Chowdhury
Lecturer, Dept of TE
BUFT Page 5
condition, the specific surface S, can be determined and consequently the fibre
diameter. Then by using a value for the density of the material, the fibre wt. per
unit length/ fineness could be derived.

Mahmuda Chowdhury
Lecturer, Dept of TE
BUFT Page 6