Top-Down Teddy Raglan

Bulky Top-Down Teddy Bear Raglan
By Diana Sullivan
Machine: 9 mm bulky machine. The sample was made on a Brother

270 with ribber. If you do not have a ribber, you can make hemmed
edges or latched-up ribbed edges.
Yarn: 2-1/2 ounces of Group 4 (worsted weight) washable yarn.
Gauge: 4 stitches and 6 rows = 1”. Suggested gauge swatch of 20

stitches and 30 rows should equal 5” wide and 5” tall.
Sizing: This fits a 17-20” teddy bear. The sample was knitted for a
17” Build A Bear.
With the 270 and a Group 4 yarn, tension 6 gave the gauge. Ribbings
were all made on tension 3.
Neckband
The neckband is made first
and scrapped off in sections
for the front, back, and each
sleeve.
Cast on 60 stitches using regular circular cast-on. Adjust to ribbing tension (3 whole numbers tighter
than garment tension) and knit 4 rows. Transfer all stitches to main bed and change to regular sinker
plate.
Use contrasting waste yarn to scrap off the rightmost 14 stitches for the right sleeve, then 18 stitches for
the front, then 14 stitches for the left sleeve, and then the leftmost 14 stitches for the back.
Back
Rehang the 14 stitches for the back from
the waste yarn edge with the wrong side
of the waste yarn facing your body.
Set row counter to 000.
Use garment tension and thread machine,

then do a simple increase on the carriage
side by bringing out one more needle
between the 14 stitches and the carriage.
(Do the increase on the carriage side only.) Knit across. First raglan increase completed.
© 2021 Diana L. Sullivan All Rights Reserved Page 1 Top-Down Teddy Raglan
*Bring out another needle on the carriage side and knit across.* Repeat * to *, making a raglan increase
at the beginning of each row 18 times, until you are at row counter 018.
Increase 2 stitches with an e-wrap on the carriage side of the next row and knit across. Increase on the
other side and knit back. Row counter 020.
Knit 7 more rows. Row counter 027.
Put ribber and ribber arm into work. Set both carriages to ribbing tension. Hang weights (two triangle
weight hangers and two large weights works well). Put every other needle on the ribber for knit one,
purl one (1x1) ribbing. Knit 4 rows. Increase ribber and main bed tensions by 5 whole numbers, knit
one row, and the cut the yarn, leaving
about 2’ for sewing. Transfer all stitches
to main bed. Do a loop-through-a-loop
cast off.
Front
Pick up the 18-stitch section of the
neckband onto the center 18 needles (#9L
to #9R). Make sure the purl side of the
waste yarn is facing you.
Use garment tension and thread machine, then do a simple increase on the carriage side by bringing out
one more needle between the 18 stitches and the carriage. (Do the increase on the carriage side only.)
Knit across. First raglan increase completed.
Do a cable by taking stitches #1 & #2 on the left onto a transfer tool and #1
and #2 on the right onto another transfer tool. Put the stitches from the
left two needles on the right empty needles and the stitches from the right
onto the left empty needles. OR do any cable you’d like!
Latch up stitches #3 on the left and #3 on the right to make a nice edge for
the cable. It will stand out more with this one column of purled stitches.
Continue the raglan increases for 6 more rows, to row counter 012. Do the
increase for row 12 and turn another cable. Latch up the side stitches.
Do two more raglan increases, and you’ll be at row counter 014.
Knit 2 rows plain and cable again. Row counter 018. Knit 5 more rows plain, to row counter 023. Latch
up stitches along sides of cable.
To use a ribbing attachment: Put ribber and ribber arm into work. Set Video showing how finish with
both carriages to ribbing tension. Hang weights (two triangle weight latched rib:
hangers and two large weights works well). Put every other needle on https://youtu.be/LTQgTDdaE1s
the ribber for knit one, purl one (1x1) ribbing. Knit 4 rows. Increase
ribber and main bed tensions by 5 whole numbers, knit one row, and
the cut the yarn, leaving about 2’ for sewing. Transfer all stitches to
main bed. Do a loop-through-a-loop cast off.
If you are latching up ribbing, here’s a YouTube video with just the
technique you need for this project: https://youtu.be/LTQgTDdaE1s
Finish with mock rib:
If you are doing mock ribbing, here’s a YouTube video for that: https://youtu.be/_tiqQePZ9Jc
https://youtu.be/_tiqQePZ9Jc
Right Sleeve
Carriage on left. Set carriage to garment tension.
Find the 14 stitches for the right sleeve, which are on the neckband
between the front and back when the purl
side is facing you. The purl side of the
front is facing you to the right, and it’s
easy to tell it’s the front because it has the
cable. Hang the sleeve neckband on
needles #7L to #7R with the purl side of
the waste yarn facing you. Now the front
will hang down on the right, purl side
toward you.
Set the machine for short-rowing so that it will not knit held needles. Put all the needles for the sleeve
neckband into hold except the 4 nearest the carriage.
Knit to right. Do one short-row increase by moving the needle nearest the needles in work from hold
into upper working position, that is, halfway back to B position, and “wrap” it by putting the end of the
incoming yarn under it. Also, hold the back with the purl side facing you and put the raglan increase
loop nearest the neckband onto an additional needle on the left-hand side of the 4 needles that are in B
position. Knit to the left. The first raglan increase is done now, and it has also joined the sleeve to the
back in that first spot.
Now bring 4 more needles into upper working position, working toward the front, and knit to the right.
Bring the next held needle into upper working position and wrap it. Pick up the next raglan increase
from the back and hang it on the next empty needle on the left and knit to the left.
Put the remaining needles into upper working position and pick up the raglan increase nearest the
neckband from the front and put it on the next empty needle to the right. Knit to the right.
Pick up the next raglan increase from the back, and knit to the left. Pick up the next raglan increase on
the front, and knit to the right. Keep doing this until all the loops are picked up and then set row
counter to 000. Pick up the two e-wrap loops opposite the carriage and knit across. Pick up the other
two e-wraps opposite the carriage and knit across. Knit 5 more rows.
weight hangers and a large weight on each hanger works well). Put every other needle on the ribber for
knit one, purl one (1x1) ribbing. Knit 4 rows at ribbing tension. Increase ribber and main bed tensions
by 5 whole numbers, knit one row, and the cut the yarn, leaving about 2’ for sewing. Transfer all
stitches to main bed. Do a loop-through-a-loop cast off.
Left Sleeve
Carriage on right. Hang the remaining 14 stitches for the last sleeve on needles #7L to #7R. The purl
side of the front is facing you on the left and purl of the back is on the right.
Set carriage to garment tension. Set the machine for short-rowing so that it will not knit held needles.
Put all the needles for the sleeve neckband into hold except the 4 nearest the carriage. Knit to left.
Do one short-row increase by moving the

needle nearest the needles in work from
hold into upper working position, that is,
halfway back to B position, and “wrap” it by
putting the end of the incoming yarn under
it. Also, put the back raglan increase loop
nearest the neckband onto an additional
needle on the right-hand side of the 4
needles that are in working position. Knit
to the right. The first raglan increase is
done now, and it has also joined the sleeve
to the back in that first spot.
Now bring 4 more needles into upper working position, working toward the front, and knit to the left.
Bring the next needle on the right of the needles in hold into upper working position and wrap it. Pick
up the next raglan increase from the back and hang it on the next empty needle on the left and knit to
the right.
Move the remaining needles in hold into upper working position and pick up the raglan increase nearest
the neckband from the front and put it on the next empty needle to the left. Knit to the left.
Pick up the next raglan increase from the back onto another needle, and knit to the right. Pick up the
next raglan increase on the front, and knit to the left. Keep doing this until all the loops are picked up
and then set row counter to 000. Pick up the two e-wrap loops opposite the carriage and knit across.
Pick up the other two e-wraps opposite the carriage and knit across. Knit 5 more rows to row counter
007.
weight hangers and two large weights works well). Put every other needle on the ribber for knit one,
purl one (1x1) ribbing. Knit 4 rows. Increase ribber and main bed tensions by 5 whole numbers, knit
one row, and the cut the yarn, leaving about 2’ for sewing. Transfer all stitches to main bed. Do a loop-
through-a-loop cast off.
Finishing
Using a one-row mattress stitch, sew the short open section of the neckband between the back and the
sleeve. Sew the front and back side seams. Sew the sleeve seams. Hide and trim all the yarn ends.
Mid-Gauge Top-Down Teddy Bear Raglan

By Diana Sullivan
Machine: Mid-gauge flatbed machine.
Yarn: 2-1/2 ounces of Group 3 (sport weight) washable yarn.
Gauge: 5-1/2 stitches and 7-3/4 rows = 1”. Suggested gauge swatch
of 20 stitches and 30 rows should equal 3-5/8” wide and 3-7/8” tall.
A starting tension setting is about 4 – but find the setting that gives
you the gauge with your machine and your yarn. Ribbings and hems
need to be 2-3 whole numbers tighter.
17” Build A Bear.
Neckband
The neckband is made first and scrapped
off in sections for the front, back, and
each sleeve.
Cast on 80 stitches, and using hem or ribbing tension (2-3 whole numbers tighter than garment tension)
make a 6-row hem or ribbing.
Use contrasting waste yarn to scrap off, and working from the right, scrap off the rightmost 19 stitches
for the right sleeve, then 24 stitches for the front, then 19 stitches for the left sleeve, and then the
leftmost 18 stitches for the back.
Back

Tighten the tension to ribbing/hem tension and do a ribbing or hem that is 6 rows deep. If you are
latching up ribbing, here’s a YouTube video with just the technique you need for this project:
https://youtu.be/LTQgTDdaE1s If you are doing mock ribbing, here’s a YouTube video for that:
https://youtu.be/_tiqQePZ9Jc For quick viewing, you can use the QR codes for these, shown above in a
box in the bulky version of this pattern.
Front
Pick up the 24-stitch section of the neckband
onto the center 24 needles (#12L to #12R).
Make sure the purl side of the waste yarn is
facing you.

between the 24 stitches and the carriage. (Do the increase on the carriage side only.) Knit across. First
raglan increase completed.
Do a cable by taking stitches #1 & #2 on the left onto a transfer tool and #1 and #2 on the right onto
another transfer tool. Put the stitches from the left two needles on the right empty needles and the
stitches from the right onto the left empty needles. OR do any cable you’d like!
Latch up stitches #3 on the left and #3 on the right to make a nice edge for the cable. It will stand out
more with this one column of purled stitches.
Continue the raglan increases for 8 more rows, to row counter 016. Do the increase for row 16 and turn
another cable. Latch up the side stitches.
Do two more raglan increases, and you’ll be at row counter 018.
Knit 4 rows plain and cable again. Row counter 024. Knit 8 more rows plain, to row counter 032. You
don’t cable again here – it won’t look right just above the bottom hem or ribbing. Latch up stitches along
sides of cable.
In exactly the same way you did the bottom edge of the back, put in a ribbing or hem for the bottom
edge of the front.
Right Sleeve
Carriage on left. Set carriage to garment
tension. Make sure carriage is set for
short-rowing and for garment tension.
Find the 19 stitches for the right sleeve,

which are on the neckband between the
front and back when the purl side is facing
you. The purl side of the front is facing
you to the right, and it’s easy to tell it’s the front because it has the cable. Hang the sleeve neckband on
needles with the purl side of the waste yarn facing you. Now the front will hang down on the right, purl
side toward you.
Set row counter to 000. Set the machine for short-rowing so that it will not knit held needles. Put all
the needles for the sleeve neckband into hold except the 4 nearest the carriage.
Knit to right, RC 001. Do one short-row increase by moving the needle nearest the needles in work from
hold into upper working position, that is, halfway back to B position, and “wrap” it by putting the end of
the incoming yarn under it. Also, hold the back with the purl side facing you and put the raglan increase
position. Knit to the left, RC 002. The first raglan increase is done now, and it has also joined the sleeve
Now bring 4 more needles into upper working position, working toward the front, and knit to the right,
RC 003.
from the back and hang it on the next empty needle on the left and knit to the left. RC 004.
Bring 4 more needles into upper working position, working toward the front, and knit to the right, RC
005.
Put the remaining needles into upper working position and pick up the front raglan increase nearest the
neckband and put it on the next empty needle to the right. Knit to the right, RC 007.
Pick up the next raglan increase from the back and hang it on the next empty needle on the left and knit
to the left. Pick up the next raglan increase on the front, and knit to the right. Keep doing this until all
the single increase loops are picked up.
Pick up the three e-wrap loops opposite the carriage and knit across. Pick up the other three e-wraps
opposite the carriage and knit across.
Knit 6 more rows. In exactly the same way you did the bottom edge of the back and front, put in a
ribbing or hem for the bottom edge of the sleeve.
Left Sleeve
Carriage on right. Set carriage to garment tension. Make sure carriage is set for short-rowing.
Hang the 19 stitches for the left sleeve, purl side facing you. The purl side of the front is facing you on
the left.
Set row counter to 000. Put all the needles

for the sleeve neckband into hold except
the 4 nearest the carriage.
Knit to left, RC 001. Do one short-row

increase by moving the needle nearest the
needles in work from hold into upper
working position, that is, halfway back to B
position, and “wrap” it by putting the end
of the incoming yarn under it. Also, hold
the back with the purl side facing you and put the raglan increase loop nearest the neckband onto an
additional needle on the left-hand side of the 4 needles that are in B position. Knit to the right, RC 002.
The first raglan increase is done now, and it has also joined the sleeve to the back in that first spot.
Now bring 4 more needles into upper working position, working toward the front, and knit to the left,
RC 003.
from the back and hang it on the next empty needle on the right and knit to the right. RC 004.
Now bring 4 more needles into upper working position. Knit to the left, RC 005.
from the back and hang it on the next empty needle on the left and knit to the right. RC 006.
Put the remaining held needles into work. Pick up the raglan increase nearest the neckband on the
front, and knit to the left.
Pick up the next raglan increase on the back, and knit to the right. Pick up the next raglan increase on
the front and knit to the left. Keep doing this until all the single increase loops are picked up. Pick up
the three e-wrap loops opposite the carriage and knit across. Pick up the other three e-wraps opposite
the carriage and knit across. Knit 6 more rows.
In exactly the same way you did the bottom edge of the back and front, put in a ribbing or hem for the
bottom edge of the sleeve.
Finishing
Standard Gauge Top-Down Teddy Bear Raglan

By Diana Sullivan
Machine: Standard gauge flatbed knitting machine. The sample was

knitted on the Brother 965i.
Yarn: 2-1/2 ounces of Group 2 (fingering weight or 2/12) washable

yarn.
Gauge: 7-1/2 stitches and 10 rows = 1”.
Find the tension setting that gives you the gauge with your machine
and your yarn. Ribbings and hems need to be 2-3 whole numbers
tighter.
17” Build A Bear.
Neckband
The neckband is made first and scrapped
off in sections for the front, back, and each
sleeve.
Cast on 104 stitches, and using hem or ribbing tension (2-3 whole numbers tighter than garment
tension) make a 6-row hem or ribbing.
Use contrasting waste yarn to scrap off, and working from the right, scrap off the rightmost 24 stitches
for the right sleeve, then 32 stitches for the front, then 24 stitches for the left sleeve, and then the
leftmost 24 stitches for the back.
Back

Fair Isle Option: If you want a band of Fair Isle around the bear sweater body
and arms, choose a small border pattern. This one was only 8 stitches wide and
11 rows long. Right after you pick up the second e-wraps, do the setup row for
the Fair Isle and then work just one repeat. Then knit 4 more rows before the
hem or ribbing.
Tighten the tension to ribbing/hem tension and do a ribbing or hem that is 6

rows deep. If you are latching up ribbing, here’s a YouTube video with just the technique you need for
this project: https://youtu.be/LTQgTDdaE1s If you are doing mock ribbing, here’s a YouTube video for
that: https://youtu.be/_tiqQePZ9Jc For quick viewing, you can use the QR codes for these, shown
above in a box in the bulky version of this pattern.
Front
Pick up the 32-stitch section of the neckband
onto the center 32 needles (#16L to #16R).
Make sure the purl side of the waste yarn is
facing you.

between the 32 stitches and the carriage. (Do the increase on the carriage side only.) Knit across. First
raglan increase completed.
If you want the Fair Isle Option, omit the cables below. Choose a small border pattern. Right after you
pick up the second e-wraps, do the setup row for the Fair Isle and then work just one repeat. Then knit
4 more rows before the hem or ribbing.
Do a cable by taking stitches #1 & #2 on the left onto a transfer tool and #1 and #2 on the right onto
another transfer tool. Put the stitches from the left two needles on the right empty needles and the
stitches from the right onto the left empty needles. OR do any cable you’d like!
Latch up stitches #3 on the left and #3 on the right to make a nice edge for the cable. It will stand out
more with this one column of purled stitches.
Knit 6 rows plain and cable again. Row counter 032. Knit 8 more rows plain and cable again. Row
counter 040. Knit 2 rows plain to row counter 042.
In exactly the same way you did the bottom edge of the back, put in a ribbing or hem for the bottom
edge of the front.
Right Sleeve
Carriage on left. Set carriage to garment
tension. Make sure carriage is set for
short-rowing and for garment tension.
Find the 24 stitches for the right sleeve,

which are on the neckband between the
front and back when the purl side is facing
you. The purl side of the front is facing
you to the right, and it’s easy to tell it’s the front because it has the cable. Hang the sleeve neckband on
needles with the purl side of the waste yarn facing you. Now the front will hang down on the right, purl
side toward you.
Set row counter to 000. Set the machine for short-rowing so that it will not knit held needles. Put all
the needles for the sleeve neckband into hold except the 4 nearest the carriage.
Knit to right, RC 001. Do one short-row increase by moving the needle nearest the needles in work from
hold into upper working position, that is, halfway back to B position, and “wrap” it by putting the end of
the incoming yarn under it. Also, hold the back with the purl side facing you and put the raglan increase
position. Knit to the left, RC 002. The first raglan increase is done now, and it has also joined the sleeve
Now bring 4 more needles into upper working position, working toward the front, and knit to the right,
RC 003.
005.
007.
Put the remaining needles into upper working position and pick up the front raglan increase nearest the
neckband and put it on the next empty needle to the right. Knit to the right, RC 009.
Pick up the next raglan increase from the back and hang it on the next empty needle on the left and knit
to the left. Pick up the next raglan increase on the front, and knit to the right. Keep doing this until all
the single increase loops are picked up.
Pick up the three e-wrap loops opposite the carriage and knit across. Pick up the other three e-wraps
opposite the carriage and knit across.
If you want the Fair Isle Option, do the setup row now. Since this pattern is 11 rows, for the sample, I
did it and then shortened the ribbing to 4 rows. The sleeves are still a little long, but it looks better to
put in the whole Fair Isle pattern.
Knit 6 more rows. In exactly the same way you did the bottom edge of the back and front, put in a
ribbing or hem for the bottom edge of the sleeve.
Left Sleeve
Carriage on right. Set carriage to garment tension. Make sure carriage is set for short-rowing.
Hang the 24 stitches for the left sleeve, purl side facing you. The purl side of the front is facing you on
the left.
Set row counter to 000. Put all the needles

for the sleeve neckband into hold except
the 4 nearest the carriage.
Knit to left, RC 001. Do one short-row

increase by moving the needle nearest the
needles in work from hold into upper
working position, that is, halfway back to B
position, and “wrap” it by putting the end
of the incoming yarn under it. Also, hold the back with the purl side facing you and put the raglan
increase loop nearest the neckband onto an additional needle on the left-hand side of the 4 needles that
are in B position. Knit to the right, RC 002. The first raglan increase is done now, and it has also joined
the sleeve to the back in that first spot.
Now bring 4 more needles into upper working position, working toward the front, and knit to the left,
RC 003.
from the back and hang it on the next empty needle on the right and knit to the right. RC 004.
Now bring 4 more needles into upper working position. Knit to the left, RC 005.
Bring 4 more needles into upper working position. Knit to the left, RC 007.
Put the remaining held needles into work. Pick up the raglan increase nearest the neckband on the
front, and knit to the left. RC 009.
Pick up the next raglan increase on the back, and knit to the right. Pick up the next raglan increase on
the front and knit to the left. Keep doing this until all the single increase loops are picked up. Pick up
the three e-wrap loops opposite the carriage and knit across. Pick up the other three e-wraps opposite
the carriage and knit across. If you want the Fair Isle Option, do the setup row now. Since this pattern is
11 rows, for the sample, I did it and then shortened the ribbing to 4 rows.
Otherwise, knit 6 more rows.
In exactly the same way you did the bottom edge of the back and front, put in a ribbing or hem for the
bottom edge of the sleeve.
Finishing
Variations
There are many different ways to embellish this sweater. You could do reform stitches to make purl
ridges, or add stripes, or add knit-back Fair Isle, or do different cables. Here are a couple very simple
cables that fit on this sweater.
This little green sweater was made with Baby Bee on the mid-gauge
machine, and 2 by 1 mock rib was used for both the neckband and the
welts. You do not have to have a ribber or latch ribbing to make this
sweater.
If you want two cables, or more, Simply mark the needle bed with a
washable marker to indicate which groups of needles you’ll use for your
cables. The needles on each side of the mark will hold the stitches you
need to latch up later.
Braided cables are terrific to do on the machine, because you will get more
width and still have easily-twisted stitches.
This braided cable is made over 6 needles in the center of the front, #3L to
#3R. Needles #4L and #4R are the needles for the latched purl stitches.
After knitting 4 rows, put needles #3L and #2L on a 2-prong transfer tool
and #1L and #1R on a 2-prong transfer tool. Move the right tool leftward
and put those stitch on #3L and #2L, then move the left tool rightward and
fill #1L and #1R. Knit 4 rows, then pick up #1L and #1R on one tool and #2R
and #3R on another tool. Move the left tool rightward and put those
stitches on #2R and #3R. Move the right tool leftward and fill in #1L and
#1R.

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Bulky Top-Down Teddy Bear Raglan

Machine: 9 mm bulky machine. The sample was made on a Brother

Yarn: 2-1/2 ounces of Group 4 (worsted weight) washable yarn.

Gauge: 4 stitches and 6 rows = 1”. Suggested gauge swatch of 20

Set row counter to 000.

Use garment tension and thread machine,

Knit 7 more rows. Row counter 027.

Set row counter to 000.

Do two more raglan increases, and you’ll be at row counter 014.

Do one short-row increase by moving the

Mid-Gauge Top-Down Teddy Bear Raglan

Machine: Mid-gauge flatbed machine.

Yarn: 2-1/2 ounces of Group 3 (sport weight) washable yarn.

Set row counter to 000.

Use garment tension and thread machine,

Knit 12 more rows. Row counter 038.

Set row counter to 000.

Use garment tension and thread machine,

Do two more raglan increases, and you’ll be at row counter 018.

Find the 19 stitches for the right sleeve,

Set row counter to 000. Put all the needles

Knit to left, RC 001. Do one short-row

Standard Gauge Top-Down Teddy Bear Raglan

Machine: Standard gauge flatbed knitting machine. The sample was

Yarn: 2-1/2 ounces of Group 2 (fingering weight or 2/12) washable

Gauge: 7-1/2 stitches and 10 rows = 1”.

Set row counter to 000.

Use garment tension and thread machine,

Knit 16 more rows. Row counter 050.

Tighten the tension to ribbing/hem tension and do a ribbing or hem that is 6

Set row counter to 000.

Use garment tension and thread machine,

Find the 24 stitches for the right sleeve,

Set row counter to 000. Put all the needles

Knit to left, RC 001. Do one short-row

Otherwise, knit 6 more rows.

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