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International Journal of Natural Products Research

Universal Research Publications. All rights reserved

ISSN: 2249-0353
Review

Bioprospecting and new cosmetic product development:

A brief review on the current status
Arun Duraisamy, Venkat krishnan and K P Balakrishnan*
Personal care division, ITC R&D centre, peenya industrial area,
Bangalore 560058, India
Email id: kp.balakrishnan@itc.in
Received 25 August 2011; accepted 17 September 2011

Abstract

Life in the earth is impossible without plants. They not only cater to our basic needs like food, shelter and clothing but also
extend their support in curing the imbalances of the body. Plants possess their medicinal properties because of the reserved
secondary metabolites. These metabolites are used from ages for treating the illness. Exploring such medicinal plant leads for
their application in cosmetic industry opens a wide scope in the area of prospecting research. The article makes an attempt to
review the needs of personal care industry for prospecting the herbs and the modern day consumer needs. It also throws an
insight into the understanding of the bio-targets for the leads to act upon, the biochemical approaches for screening the potent
herbs and the herbs known in the literature for their respective cosmetic application. The article opens the way for exploiting
the biotechnological and chemi-informatics tools to commercialize the active molecules and thereby conserving the
biodiversity.
© 2011 Universal Research Publications. All rights reserved
Key words: secondary metabolites, medicinal plant, biotechnological, chemi-informatics, biodiversity.

1.0. Introduction: components of biodiversity for creating economic and social

Plants are the wonderful gift of nature for the welfare of all
other creatures. We consume the plant products for our
survival, use their core wood for making our shelter, through
the transpiration process they help in the raining and through
photosynthesis they consume the carbon dioxide and releases
oxygen thereby purifies the air too. They are used for these
basic needs and their applications are extended in the
remediation of the diseases to the humans, animals and now
even to the polluted environment. Search of such potential
plants or plant based products/molecules to add value to the
health of the globe is called bioprospecting.
Bioprospecting can literally be defined as the systematic
search and sustainable use of chemical and genetic
International Journal of Natural Products Research 2011;1 (3):26-37
26
benefits. In earlier days, prospecting is mainly focused on the
forest ecosystem, whereas now-a-days various forms of
biodiversity like insects, algae, microbes of different (soil/
marine) ecosystem have also been explored.
In a biodiversity, the autotrophs dominate because of the self
sustaining ability, where the heterotrophic organisms depend
on autotrophs for the survival. These autotrophic organisms
synthesize their own food with the help of sunlight.
Photosynthesis results in the synthesis of sugar molecules
which paved the way for the yield of other essential
molecules for survival (primary metabolites like proteins,
lipids & nucleic acids). Once after the synthesis of primary
metabolites, the excessive energy in the autotrophs is stored
in the form of secondary metabolites. The autotrophs utilize
these secondary metabolites to protect themselves from the
biotic and abiotic stress factors.
The quantity & variety of secondary metabolites vary
between organisms. As the complexity of the organism
increases, the molecular diversity in secondary metabolites
also increases. Plants/herbals are the complex self sustaining
organisms among the autotrophs and are the richest sources
of the variety of chemical molecules across all the species.
With respective to herbal resources, bioprospecting means the
extraction and screening of chemical compounds from plants
to develop useful leads for potential drugs.
1.1. Need for prospecting:
1.1.1.Pharma industries: Pharma industries prospect the
herbal extracts for various reasons. The candidate drugs from
the natural origin are wide in their chemical diversity and
highly effective in curing the diseases i.e., plant therapeutics,
are not dependent on one single compound for curing the
diseases, it’s a mixture of active molecules. Even though the
mechanism of action of herbal actives is relatively known,
these multiple molecules in a herb act on multiple sites to
treat the diseases with less or no side effects compared to a
synthetic one. If the causative factor for any pathogenic
condition is microbes or the host malignant cells, then the
process of developing resistance against these multiple
molecules of natural origin is not so easier when compared to
single synthetic molecules.
1.1.2. Food industries: following the pharma, food industries
have also started the prospecting research in order to address
the needs of modern community. Example: as per the WHO,
one third of the Indian population is diabetic and the diabetic
population is not ready to sacrifice the sweetness out of their
life. But the intake of chocolates/ any sweets tends to increase
the blood glucose level which is detrimental to their health.
Hence, the business gap is identified and filled by the
production of chocolates/ sweets for the diabetic patients.
These chocolate products not only have the artificial
sweetener (with zero calories) which imparts the sweetness to
the product but also contains the anti-diabetic functional
active ingredients which reduces the blood glucose level. It is
the drug in food format. In the edible food products, the
actives from the natural origin are preferred over the
synthetic ones because of the same advantages. Thus, the
food industries conduct bioprospecting research for
delivering the better value added/functional food products
with natural actives.
1.1.3. Cosmetic industries: nowadays even the cosmetic
industries are also in line in going back to nature. From
ancient history, it is known that the rulers have promoted and
funded vaidyas for finding the anti-aging principles and
beautifying recipes for keeping them young, beautiful &
International Journal of Natural Products Research 2011;1 (3):26-37
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immortal. There started the application of natural products for
the cosmetic benefits. Those recipes and formulae developed
by vaidyas are not meeting the current day consumer needs.
The market demand on personal care products nowadays are
so vast like skin whitening, anti-aging, antiacne, antidandruff,
hair growth promotion and cellulite reduction as some
representative examples. Hence, the cosmetic industries are
also interested in prospecting research in search of lead
molecules and actives from natural origin which act on the
bio-targets to deliver the beauty from within.
1.2. Traditional system of medicine:
Once the searching of leads from nature is decided, it is
always useful to look into the traditional knowledge /
traditional system of medicine. Traditional knowledge is the
knowledge and practices of indigenous and local
communities embodying traditional life style. It is sometimes
the undocumented wisdom passed down by word of mouth
over many generations of holistic traditional scientific
utilization of the natural resources and environment.
Traditional system of medicine can be defined as health
practices, approaches, knowledge and beliefs incorporating
plant, animal and mineral-based medicines, spiritual
therapies, manual techniques and exercises, applied
singularly or in combination to treat, diagnose and prevent
illnesses or maintain well-being. In such cases, India is one
among the richest custodians of such traditional knowledge.
The Indian systems of medicine covers ayurveda, siddha,
yoga , naturopathy, unani and homeopathy which originated
in India and abroad, but which got adopted and adapted in
India in the course of time.
1.2.1. Ayurveda: The word ayurveda can be read as ayu &
veda. Ayu stands for life and veda stands for science or
knowledge. Hence, ayurveda can be understood as science of
life. Ayurveda teaches the ways of preventing diseases,
maintaining good health and treatment therapies. Ayurveda
believes that any imbalance in physical (body) and mental
(mind) elements that reduces the body’s resistance will result
in diseases. It recommends the herbal formulae, life style
change and the diet to boost the body’s defense mechanisms
to correct the imbalance.
1.2.2. Siddha: Siddha system of medicine uses herbs and
green leaves as medicines. When the disease condition is
chronic, siddha practioners used metals, minerals and salts in
the calcined forms to treat them. The herbal drugs used for
curing the diseases may be a single herb or combination of
herbs. Generally, the basic concepts of the siddha medicine
are almost similar to ayurveda. The only difference appears to
be that the siddha medicine recognizes predominance of
vatham, pitham and kapham in all the stages of life like
childhood, adulthood and old age respectively, whereas in
ayurveda it is totally reversed: kapham is dominant in
childhood, vatham in old age and pitham in adults.
Siddha / ayurvedic herbs and formulae exhibit wide spectrum
of therapeautic activity. One such example is guggul. It is
recommended in ayurveda for more than 25 ailments because
of its anti-inflammatory, anticoagulant, hypolipidemic and
antibacterial activity. It was found to have anti-inflammatory
activity in both polar and non-polar solvents indicating that
several constituents with different physical and chemical
properties exerting the same neuropharmacological actions.
1.2.3. Unani: The unani system of medicine originated from
greece and roman literature was translated into arabic &
persian languages. Thus, the arabs and persians introduced
unani system of medicine in India. Various therapies
employed in unani system are
 Ilaj-bid-dava: using the drugs from herbal, mineral and
animal origin.
 Ilaj-bit: regimental therapy like cupping, diaphoresis,
turkish bath, massage, purging, exercises etc.,
 Jarahat: surgery
Unani medicines mainly act as immunomodulators besides
their combating function on disease causing factors.
1.2.4. Homeopathy: This system of medicine is developed by
samuel hahnemann (1755–1843) and is being practiced in
many parts of the world. It is governed by two main
principles. One is “like cures like” in which the patients with
particular signs and symptoms can be helped by a
homeopathic remedy that produces these signs and symptoms
in healthy individuals. The second principle is that these
remedies retain biological activity after repeated dilution
which is beyond avagadro’s number.
In order to apply such knowledge available in the traditional
system of medicine for discovering the cosmetically
beneficial leads, one needs to have a good biochemical
understanding of the cosmetic substrates like skin and hair.
Hence, the current review is directed in understanding the
biochemical targets and the herbal remedies known in the
literature to attain the properties like skin whitening, anti-
acne, hair growth promotion, hair colours and cellulite
reduction. It is concluded with the tips for commercializing
such identified novel molecules in a sustainable way from the
natural origin.
2.0. Skin whitening
Skin, being the outermost organ acts as an important barrier
in protecting our body. Melanin is the important pigment of
the skin whose protective role should not be underestimated.
Melanin protects the skin by absorbing the harmful ultraviolet
radiations [1]. It also acts as an endogenous antioxidant by
combating the free radicals generated due to UV irradiation.
International Journal of Natural Products Research 2011;1 (3):26-37
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Fig 1: Irradiation of UV on to skin enhances the biogenesis
of melanosomes in the melanocytes. Synthesized
melanosomes acts as a vehicle for the transport of melanin
from the melanocytes to keratinocytes. The delivered
melanosomes releases the melanin in the nuclueolus of the
keratinocytes, where in the melanin caps the DNA and
renders protection from UV radiation.
Melanogenesis is initiated or accelerated upon exposure to
UV radiation by the feed forward stimulation of tyrosinase
enzyme, which results in skin darkening. The dermal DNA
photodamage, infiltration of neutrophils, expression of
matrixmetalloproteases (MMPS) and interleukin-10 (IL-10)
seems to be more in white skin compared with black skin [2].
Thus, melanin protects the skin from sunburn, photo-aging
and carcinogenesis by absorbing and scattering the
detrimental UV rays [3]. On the other hand, over exposure to
UV radiation will result in the pathological increase of
melanin (hyperpigmentation disorders) as seen in the clinical
conditions like melasoma, solar lentigines and ephelides [4].
2.1. Biochemistry of melanogenesis:
The body biochromes namely oxyhemoglobin (red), reduced
hemoglobin (blue), carotenoids (yellow) and most
importantly the production, distribution, type and quantity of
melanin (brown) decides the skin colour of the individual [5].
The specialized cells in the epidermis that produce such
brown pigments are called melanocytes [6]. The population
of melanocytes among the keratinocytes in the basal layer of
the skin is in the approximate ratio of 1:10. Even though, the
number of melanocytes among the different racial/ethinic
group is same, the difference arises in the melanocyte density
at different sites of the body [7].
Melanocytes possess a dedicated membrane bound ovoid
organelle called melanosome to synthesize and store the
pigment melanin. Melanocytes transport the melanosomes
through their elongated dendrites to the neighbouring
keratinocytes [8] as shown in fig 1. These keratinocytes with

Fig 2: The pathway indicates the biosynthesis of melanin
from the precursor tyrosine. The regulatory enzymes involved
in this biochemical pathway of eumelanin and pheomelanin
synthesis includes tyrosinase, DOPA chrome tautomerase
(DCT) and tyrosinase related protein 1 (TYRP1).
the ingested melanosomes proliferates from the suprabasal
epidermal layer to the skin surface. The ingested melanosome
forms a critical barrier/shield on the DNA by forming
supranuclear caps to exhibit photoprotection [9].
There are two types of melanin pigments produced in the
body. They are pheomelanin and eumelanin. The light red or
yellow coloured, alkali soluble sulfur containing pigments
predominantly seen in red hair or in freckles phenotype is
pheomelanin [10]. Eumelanin is of two types either in dark
black or dark brown colors which are insoluble, found in the
dark skin and black hair [11]. Human skin contains all the
pigments in varying ratios, which determines the race /
ethinic groups. The ratio is unique to the individuals and
hence forms the body image.
Regulation of melanogenesis is a complex process and it
involves the expression or suppression of more than 125
genes directly or indirectly [12]. The regulation involves
various steps which includes the expression of enzymes
essential for the synthesis of melanin, structural proteins for
the formation of melanosome, the membrane bound
transporters for the import of substrate tyrosine to the spot of
synthesis and the signaling proteins for the trafficking of
melanosomes thereby resulting in the distribution of melanin
in the skin [13].
Tyrosinase is the key enzyme which catalyses the initial rate
limiting step of melanin biosynthesis. It catalyses the
hydroxylation of tyrosine to 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine 2.3.2. Mulberry:
(DOPA) and the subsequent oxidation from DOPA to DOPA The mulberry plant (Morus alba) is the reservoir of various
quinone [14]. The DOPA quinone spontaneously cyclizes to class of compounds. It contains the phenolic compounds
form DOPA chrome. DOPA chrome is the precursor for the such as gallic acid, quercetin and the fatty acids like linoleic
International Journal of Natural Products Research 2011;1 (3):26-37
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formation of dark/brown melanin called eumelanin [15]. The
enzyme DOPA chrome tautomerase (DCT) acts on DOPA
chrome and forms 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid
(DHICA).the DHICA is acted upon by tyrosinase related
protein 1 (TYRP1) and forms eumelanin as shown in fig 2
[16].
The DOPA chrome loses its carboxylic acid group, oxidised
and polymerises to yield eumelanins [17]. This reaction is
also catalysed by TYRP1. In presence of aminoacids like
glutathione/cysteine, the DOPA quinone is converted into the
cysteinyl DOPA and further oxidation results in pheomelanin
[18]. Mutations in any of or all the key regulatory enzymes
like tyrosinase/DCT/ TYRP1 will dramatically affect the
quality and quantity of the melanin synthesized [19].
2.2. Skin whitening actives- screening approaches:
There are various approaches used by the scientific
community to screen the natural or synthetic molecules with
skin lightening property. The tyrosinase enzyme isolated
from the microbial/mushroom/ cell line sources were
incubated with the molecule of interest for examining the
skin whitening property through the tyrosinase inhibition
[20]. The s.bikiniensis culture or the B16 melanoma cells
were used as a model system to screen the potent molecules
with pigmentation inhition efficiency [21]. The co-culture of
melanocytes and keratinocytes from mouse or human skin
acts as a skin equivalent model which mimics the in-vivo
system for testing the skin whitening agents [22]. The
establishment of brownish guinea pig model through the
exposure to UV radiation or by the injection of α-melanocyte
stimulating hormone (α-msh) was the in-vivo model used to
screen the molecules with potent skin whitening property
[23].
2.3. Skin whitening actives-a survey:
The potent skin whitening actives used by the cosmetic
industries and well known in the literature are reviewed in
this section.
2.3.1. Licorice extracts:
Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) contains the battery of
secondary metabolites that suppresses the skin pigmentation
system [24]. The actives in the licorice extracts are glabridin,
glabrene, isoliquiritigenin, licuraside, licochalcone a,
liquiritin and its iso form. Most of these compounds exhibit
the skin whitening property through one way or the other.
The compounds like glabridin, glabrene and others exhibit
the tyrosinase inhibition in the melanoma cells, whereas
liquiritin has no effect on tyrosinase; however it causes the
skin whitening through alternate route [25].
acid and palmitic acid. The active component in these leaves
are Mulberroside F (moracin m-6,30-di-o-beta-d-gluco-
pyranoside), which showed the tyrosinase inhibitory activity
and the inhibition of melanin formation in melanoma cells
[26]. These compounds are the potent antioxidants which
inhibit the autooxidation of unsaturated fatty acids and nullify
the toxic effect of superoxide radicals.
2.3.3. Aloesin:
The plant genera aloe is rich in the metabolite aloesin.
Aloesin inhibits the tyrosine hydroxylase and DOPA oxidase
activities of tyrosinase from human, mushroom and murine
sources in a competitive fashion. The tyrosinase inhibition
and the photoprotection properties of the aloesin in the in-
vitro & in-vivo system are in a dose dependent manner [27].
The noncompetitive and competitive inhibitors such as
arbutin and aloesin shows synergestic effect on tyrosinase
Fig 3: The healthy hair shaft with balanced sebaceous
inhibition.
secretion with no inflammation. Infection with the organism
2.3.5. Hesperidin: Propionibacterium acnes triggers the inflammation resulting
The citrus fruits, its peel and the membrane are rich in the in the inflamed hair shaft with excessive sebaceous secretion.
bioflavonoid called hesperedin. The studies documented
reveals that the hesperidin inhibits the melanogenesis without Lipase hydrolyzes sebum triglycerides into glycerol and free
cytotoxicity in the b16 melanoma cells and human primary fatty acids. In addition to the chemotactic factors released by
melanocytes. Hesperidin protects the fibroblast and the p.acnes, the free fatty acids released from the lipase action, is
collagen fibrils from the UV induced oxidative damage [28]. metabolised to give proinflammatory cytokines [32]. These
Thus, hesperidin actively exerts skin whitening property and factors attract the neutrophils to the follicle resulting in the
thereby improves the skin tone [29]. early inflammatory lesions of acne (fig 3). The aerobic
organism namely Staphylococcus epidermidis, is usually seen
2.3.6. Bioflavonoids & polyphenols: in superficial infections within the sebaceous unit. This
Bioflavonoids can be divided into flavones, flavonols,
finding defines the role of staphylococcus epidermidis in the
isoflavones, and flavanones. Flavones such as eriodictyol, formation of acne.
naringenin have the structure similar to hydroquinone, where
they exhibit a competitive inhition on the active site of
The increase in sebum also results in a relative deficiency of
tyrosinase. The cranberry juice and grape seeds are the richest
linoleic acid within the follicle and stimulates the follicular
sources of proanthocyanidins or procyanidins. They possess
keratinization. Thus, the principal factors like excess
potent antioxidant activity than vitamin C or E [30]. The
secretion of sebum, microbial infection, altered follicular
ellagic acid and ginseng p-coumaric acid are the potent
keratinization and inflammation results in the pathogenic
tyrosinase inhibitors. state called acne vulgaris. The severity of inflammation in the
3.0. Anti-acne: acne spot is highly influenced by the microbial factors like
Acne is a common skin disorder that affects almost all the Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis
individuals at least once during their lifetime. The occurrence than any other. Hence, Propionibacterium acnes and
of acne peaks in the teenage but generally affects the people Staphylococcus epidermidis are the main target sites for
in the age group of 20-40 years. Acne can have important antiacne drugs.
negative psychological consequences for the affected
individual, with diminished self-esteem. 3.2. Anti-acne actives – screening approaches:
All the antibiotics and antibacterial actives currently in the
3.1. Mechanism of acne formation: market are not highly effective against the above said
The levels of steroid hormones are peak in teenage pathogens. Hence, paves the scope for screening the actives
which results in the enhanced production of sebum by with potent anti-acne activity. The approaches used are the
increasing the size and activity of sebaceous glands. This traditional methods for screening the antibacterial activity.
excessive sebum acts as an excellent culture medium for the i.e., Kirby bauer method to find the zone of inhibition exerted
growth of the obligate ananaerobic skin pathogen by the active against bacterial growth. Once the active exerts
Propionibacterium acnes [31]. The triglycerides of sebum is the effective zone, the effective concentration required to
acted upon by the enzyme from the p.acnes called lipase.
International Journal of Natural Products Research 2011;1 (3):26-37
30
inhibit the bacterial growth is found by minimum inhibitory
concentration (MIC) test. The enzyme lipase extracted from
the microbial sources acts as the molecular targets for the
anti-acne drugs. Hence, the lipase inhibition assay is also
carried out to identify the potent drugs using high throughput
screening methods.
3.3. Anti-acne actives- a survey:
The effective anti-acne herbs well known in the literature are
reviewed in this section.
3.3.1. Azadirachta indica:
Azadirachta indica (neem) leaves exhibit the antiacne activity
against the organisms like P.acnes and S.epidermidis.
Inflammatory mediators like reactive oxygen species (ROS)
and pro-inflammatory cytokines (interleukin-8 and tumor
necrosis factor-α) were released by P.acnes, which play a
significant role in acne pathogenesis. The anti-inflammatory
role of Azadirachta indica in the acne environment is proved
by treating the polymorphonuclear leukocytes (PMNL) and
monocytes with the culture supernatant of P.acnes in the
presence and absence of herb. It was found that Azadirachta
indica significantly suppresses P.acnes induced ros and pro-
inflammatory cytokines [33]. Based on such promising
results, the herb is used in antiacne creams.
3.3.2. Momordica charantia:
Momordica charantia (bitter melon) is one of the very
common Indian herb having various medicinal properties
used in traditional system for treating skin diseases like
psoriasis, leprosy etc., antimicrobial activity of bitter melon
fruit against P.acnes and S.epidermidis was examined. The
antiacne potential of Momordica charantia may be due to its
antibacterial and anti-inflammatory efficacy.
3.3.3. Eucalyptus globulus:
The antiacne potential of Eucalyptus globulus and the
chemical constituents in the eucalyptus volatile oil
responsible for the antiacne efficacy has been examined by
Athikomkulchai et al., (2008). The study reveals that the
possible inhibitory effect against acne may be due to the
presence of the major component in the volatile oil namely
gamma-terpinene. It is a monoterpene that plays an important
role for its antibacterial activity [34]. It might cross the cell
membranes, thus penetrating into the interior of the cell and
interacting with intracellular sites critical for antibacterial
activity.
3.3.4. Psidium guajava:
The essential oil of guava exhibits antibacterial activity
against wide range of bacteria including Propionibacterium
acnes. The antimicrobial activity of Psidium guajava
determined by disk diffusion method was compared to tea
tree oil (tto), doxycycline and clindamycin antibiotics. The
International Journal of Natural Products Research 2011;1 (3):26-37
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Fig 4: Hair growth is a cycle of events with the phases like
anagen (growing phase), catagen (involuting phase) and
telogen (resting phase). All the hair shaft passes these phases
once in its life cycle. Once after the telogen phase, the hair
follicle is stimulated to enter the anagen phase.
zone of inhibition was significantly higher than those of tto
but less when compared to doxycycline or clindamycin [35].
From these studies, it can be concluded that Psidium guajava
may be beneficial in treating acne especially when they are
known to have anti-inflammatory activities.
3.3.5. Juglans regia:
The medicinal property of the walnuts and the leaves of the
cosmopolitan tree Juglans regia l. Is well known. The
insecticidal and bactericidal properties of the leaf extracts of
J. Regia have been reported. The antiacne activity of Juglans
regia was confirmed by testing its efficacy against P.acnes
and S.epidermidis. The organisms were isolated from the
acne lesions of female and male human volunteers and
cultured for the growth of acne causing bacterium in presence
of the herbal extract [36]. The results evidenced that the
bacterial growth inhibitory property was higher in walnut leaf
extract. Thus, the plant extract acts as the potential antiacne
agent.
4.0 Hair growth:
Hair is an important feature of body image due to the unique
styling interest of the individuals. The loss of hair will affect
psychologically with the symptoms of social withdrawal due
to embarrassment and depression. In order to address the hair
loss issues with herbal remedies, the basic understanding of
the hair growth cycle and its deviation in the disease
condition called aloepecia needs to be understood [37].
4.1. Hair growth cycle:
Hair growth cycle is similar to the cell cycle. Each hair seen
in the comb has to pass through the different phases of hair
growth cycle, which are described in the below section.

Fig 5: The excess of the male hormone dihydrotestosterone
(DHT) will ultimately result in the hair loss. The condition is
called male pattern baldness. The binding of DHT to the hair
follicle shortens the growing phase and results in
miniaturizing the hair length.
4.1.1. Anagen phase - growth phase: Approximately 85% of
the hairs are in the growing phase at any one time. The
anagen phase or growth phase can vary from two to six years.
Hair grows approximately 10cm per year and any individual
hair is unlikely to grow more than one meter long [38].
4.1.2. Catagen phase - transitional phase: At the end of the
anagen phase, the hairs enters into a catagen phase which
lasts about one or two weeks, during the catagen phase the
hair follicle shrinks to about 1/6 of the normal length [39].
The lower part is destroyed and the dermal papilla breaks
away to rest as seen in fig 4.
4.1.3. Telogen phase - resting phase: The resting phase
follows the catagen phase and normally lasts about 5-6
weeks. During this time, the hair does not grow but stays
attached to the follicle while the dermal papilla stays in a
resting phase. Approximately 10-15 percent of all hairs are in
this phase at one time [40].
At the end of the telogen phase, the hair follicle re-enters the
anagen phase. The dermal papilla and the base of the follicle
join together again and a new hair begins to form. If the old
hair has not already been shed, the new hair pushes the old
one out and the growth cycle starts all over again.
The excessive androgenic hormones and the genetic
predisposal are the main causes for the male pattern baldness.
The dermal papilla is fundamental for the maintenance of hair
growth and is the probable target for androgen-mediated
changes in the hair cycle resulting in the miniaturisation of
the follicle (fig 5). The follicular miniaturisation affects the
papilla, the matrix and ultimately the hair shaft [41].
International Journal of Natural Products Research 2011;1 (3):26-37
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The excessive androgenic hormones (5α-dihydrotestosterone
(DHT) bind to the hair root and acts via the second
messengers. This alters the hair growth cycle phases. In
aloepecia, the period of anagen phase is so short that the
emerging hair does not reach the skin surface. The presence
of pore is the only evidence for the functioning follicles. In
addition, the latency period between telogen hair shedding
and anagen regrowth becomes longer, leading to a reduction
in the number of hairs present on the scalp [42].
4.2. Hair growth promoting herbs – screening approaches:
The hair growth promotion efficacy of the herbs can be
screened by attacking two targets. One is the hair follicle
proliferating potential of the herbs in the in-vitro cultured
model of the hair follicles [43]. The other is reducing the
turnover of the androgen DHT in the hair follicles by
inhibitng the enzyme 5α-reductase. It is an enzyme that
converts the androgenic hormone testosterone to DHT. The
prevalence of DHT and the 5α-reductase in the bald scalp is
high compared to a normal scalp [44]. Through in-vitro
follicle culture and the inhibition of 5α-reductase is
monitored for the high throughput screening of the herbs with
potent hair growth promoting property.
4.3. Hair growth promoting herbals- a survey:
The herbs with potent hair growth promoting property known
in the literature and used traditionally are reviewed in this
section.
4.3.1. Hibiscus rosasinensis:
This is a glabrous shrub widely cultivated in the tropics. It is
well documented in the ayurvedic and siddha system of
medicine. The leaves and flowers of Hibiscus rosasinensis
have hair growth promoting and antigreying properties. In
India, the herbal products in the market intended for hair
growth include the extract of various parts of Hibiscus
rosasinensis. The leaf extract of this plant has a potential
effect on maintaining the hair growth, are scientifically
validated in the in-vivo and in-vitro model systems [45].
4.3.2. Cuscuta reflexa:
It is commonly distributed in tropical, temperate region and
found throughout the Indian subcontinent. It is a leafless,
twinning, parasitic dodder with slender long yellow stems. It
is commonly known as amarbel. The Cuscuta reflexa stem
enhances the hair growth by transforming the hair follicle
from telogen to anagen phase on a periodic basis [46].
4.3.4. Asiasari radix:
The root/ rhizome of Asiasarum heterotropoides (belongs to
the family aristolochiaceae) is called Asiasari radix. The
plant extract has hair growth promoting potential, which is
exerted due to its regulatory effects on the expression of
genes that codes for cell growth factor [47].

Fig 6: The henna leaf powder in the form of a paste is applied
on to the hair bundle. The brown colored lawsone molecule
from the paste penetrates into the hair shaft and imparts the
brown color to the cuticle of the graying hair.
4.3.5. Ocimum gratissum:
It is a herb well flourished throughout India. The essential oil
of Ocimum gratissum leaf (Ocimum oil) has been
investigated for promoting the hair growth in
cyclophosphamide-induced hair loss. The study results
support that the ocimum oil is capable of enhancing the
normal hair growth and promoting follicular proliferation in
cyclophosphamide-induced hair loss [48].
4.3.6. Ginseng radix:
This herb is known from the ancient days for improving the
poor body condition, to promote appetite, to increase vitality
and to reduce over sensitivity to cold. It possesses hair
growth promoting activity through one of its potent active
constituent namely g-rb1 in mouse vibrissal hair follicle
organ culture model [49].
5.0. Hair colours:
The hair graying is the natural phenomena happen when the
individual is chronologically aged. The graying of hair
becomes prevalent even in the young age these days due to
various reasons. The graying of hair affects the self-esteem of
the individuals’ results in the poor presentation of themselves
in the personal and professional life. Even though the
synthetic hair dyes are well known for their side effects, they
are used to address these issues. Hair colouring with various
coloured dyes becomes the integral part of unique hair styling
which is prevalent among the youngsters these days.
Prospecting the nature for the colours/dyes to style the hair
with nil side effects reveals the scope. Hence, the current
section describes the colouring of hair using natural herbal
active lawsone and reviews the other colours available in
nature for the hair applications.
5.1. Mechanism of hair colouring using lawsone:
The lawsone is the secondary metabolite present in the leaves
International Journal of Natural Products Research 2011;1 (3):26-37
33
of the plants such as Lawsonia alba, Lawsonia spinosa and
Lawsonia inermis (henna). Lawsone is responsible for
imparting the red colour to hair when applied as paste. The
compound is also found in the plant Juglans regia (walnut).
When the henna paste is applied on the hair shaft, the
lawsone molecule penetrates inside the hair shaft and binds
with the keratin fibre. When the light bounce on the henna
applied hair, the lawsone molecules in the outer layer of the
hair shaft shimmers / reflects the light in such a way to
present the hair to be in red colour [50]. The hair colouring
mechanism of lawsone is shown in fig 6.
The use of henna for dyeing the hair and nail is known in the
practice for more than 5000 years.
The content of lawsone in the henna makes it a substantive
dye for keratin in the acidic medium. The dye is formed
within the hair and not as a coating as in the case of other
metallic dyes. Henna is quite innocuous and very few cases
of allergy have been reported for its use in hair and nail.
5.2. Natural hair colours – screening approaches:
The various parts of the herbs or trees were collected and
immersed in the hydrophobic and hydrophilic solvents to
extract the colouring material based on its solubility. The
extracts were spotted on the thin layer chromatography.
Based on the colour and intensity of the bands, the coloured
materials are eluted through column chromatography and
concentrated. The concentrated colors were applied to the
greyed hair / black hair and the integrity of the colour to hair
shaft is measured using minolta spectrophotometer [51].
5.3. Natural colours for hair- a survey:
The current section reviews the colours from the natural
origin which have the scope to be used in hair styling.
5.3.1. Indigotin:
The dye indigotin is a blue to mauve colour, extracted from
the fermented leaves of the plant Indigofera tinctoria (was
also known as Pigmentum indicum). The indigo dye is found
in the numerous indigofera species which is a glucoside
component namely indican. The blue dye indigotin is
obtainted by the enzymatic treatment of the glucoside
indican. This dye is quite colourful and mixed with other
color components to produce a wide range of colorants. It is
also used in the treatment of mouth and infected ulcers.
5.3.2. Juglon:
The plant species like Juglans cinerea, J. Regia, J. Nigra
(butternut, walnut, black walnut) are the resources for the
class of naphthoquinone compounds including juglone and
juglandin. Juglon is a yellow-brown colour and referred as
juglandic acid or nucin. The hulls of the nut contain dark
colorant which is used in the colour ranging from pink,
brown to dark brown.
Fig 7: The epidermis and the dermis layer of the male and
female skin are similar. The arrangement of subcutaneous /
adipose tissue in male is rigid, where as the circular shape in
the females facilitates the cellulite deposition.
5.3.3. Lapachol:
Lapachol is a yellow crystalline material belongs to the class
of naphthoquinone compound isolated from the heart wood of
the plant Tabebuia avellanedae belongs to the family
bignoniaceae. It is reported for the medicinal properties like
anti-ulcers, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antiviral,
bactericidal, fungicidal, insecticidal, pesticidal and viricidal.
5.3.4. Pratol:
The natural colorant pratol is extracted from the plant
Trifolium pretense (clover). Pratol is chemically named as 7-
hydroxy-4’-methoxyflavone, which is a dull, golden yellow
in shade. Clover has been traditionally used in treating the
eczematous skin conditions, boils and pimples.
It is known from the literature that the occurrence of pratol in
the yellow sweet clover botanically named as Melilotus
officinalis. The flower heads are used externally in the
treatment of ulcers, burns, sores and skin complaints.
5.3.5. Sanguinarine:
Sanguinarine is a quaternary ammonium salt belongs to the
group benzylisoquinoline alkaloids extracted from the plants
like Sanguinaria canadensis (bloodroot), Argemone
mexicana (mexican prickly poppy), Chelidonium majus and
Macleaya cordata. It is also found in the root, stem and
leaves of the opium poppy. Sanguinarine, an alkaloid
extracted from dried rhizome sanguinaria canadensis, is used
as an anti-plaque agent in toothpaste and mouthwash
preparations.
6.0. Cellulte reduction:
The term “cellulite” is originated from the french medical
literature. The synonymous meaning for cellulite is adiposis,
edematosa, dermopanniculosis, deformans, status protrusus
cutis, and gynoid lipodystrophy [52]. It is most commonly
seen in the post pubertal females and rarely seen in males
[53]. Cellulite is the orange peel or cottage cheese type
dimpling of skin seen most commonly on the thighs and
buttocks. Cellulite can be located in any area of the body that
contains subcutaneous adipose tissue. This excessive deposit
of fat on one or more susceptible spots gives irregular
physical appearance resulting in the distress of the
individuals.
International Journal of Natural Products Research 2011;1 (3):26-37
34
Fig 8: The source of triglycerides for the extracellular
medium is diet. The enzyme lipoprotein lipase located on the
walls of adipose tissue cleaves the triglyceride to free fatty
acids and glycerol. These lipolytic products are taken up and
stored as triglycerides in the adipocytes.
6.1. Physiology of cellulite:
The main factors purport to explain the physiology of
cellulite includes sexually dimorphic skin architecture,
altered connective tissue septae and vascular changes [54].
The anatomy of the adipocytes or layer of adipose tissue
organized beneath the skin is different for the man & woman
as indicated in the fig 7. The shape of the adipocytes in the
females facilitates the elastic expansion and prone them to
cellulite accumulation.
The altered connective tissue septa facilitate the skin
dimpling because of the continuous and progressive vertically
oriented stretch within the hypodermal collagen fibrous
strands [55]. A process that weakens the connective tissue
buttress and allows for fat herniation. The accumulation of fat
in the adipose tissue is enzyme dependent which is the key
biotarget for the cellulite reducing herbs (which is discussed
in following section).
6.2. Cellulite reduction – screening approaches:
As it is known that adipose tissue is a specialized cell type
which stores the excessive fat beneath the skin. But the
excessive fat in the blood is in the form of lipoproteins (a fat
transporter protein) that transports the triacylglycerol from
liver and intestine to the adipose tissue. Unfortunately
adipose tissue lacks the triacylglycerol transporter protein on
the cell surface. Instead they are equipped with the membrane
bound enzyme called lipoprotein lipase which cleaves the
triacyl glycerol into free fatty acids and glycerol as shown in
fig 8.
The liberated free fatty acids and glycerol enter inside the
adiposites and esterified to triacylglycerol to be stored in
[56]. Hence, by blocking the activity of the enzyme
lipoprotein lipase results in preventing the storage of excess
fat which reflects as reduced cellulite [57]. Thus, lipoprotein
lipase becomes the target for screening the herbs with potent
cellulite reducing property.
6.3. Cellulite reducing - herbs survey & scope:
There are lots of physical and mechanical methods like
endermologie, liposuction and subcision are available these
days for cellulite reduction. Because of the cost and
complications involved in these treatments, topical therapies
are preferred. Although, there are numerous topical
treatments are available over the counteract pharmacies, spas
and boutiques, there are no large scale clinical studies
demonstrating the effectiveness of these therapies [58].
Currently, two agents namely aminophylline and retinoids
have been critically evaluated. In the herbal plat form, it has
been reported that the extract of the plant Hibiscus sabdariffa
has shown potent lipoprotein lipase inhibition [59].the
clinical efficacy of the herbal extract needs to be evaluated.
This knowledge gap opens up the scope of prospecting the
herbs to reduce the cellulite.
7.0. Conclusion
Various herbal extracts were screened for their cosmetic
benefits using multiple biochemical approaches in order to
establish the inherent potency of the herb. Once the extract/
the compound passes via robust biochemical filters, the
commercialization comes in picture. The quantity of herbal
material required to commercialize the personal care products
with the incorporated potent herbal extract is high.
It is unethical to exploit the wealth of nature for
commercialization, will result ultimately in the disturbed
ecosystem. As mahatma gandhi stated “nature can feed your
need; not your greed”, is applicable here. The utilization of
the herbs available from the nature for commercialization will
come to end upon the extinction of the herbal species one
day. Hence, there arises the use of biotechnological tools for
the sustainable growth.
 The mass cultivation of the specific herbal material
based on the geographical and seasonal conditions
through contract farming will result in the bulk
availability of herbal species for commercialization.
 Tissue culture of the potent herbal species and isolating
the active component from the cells will yield the
purified active which can also be incorporated in
cosmetic formulations for delivering the expected
benefit.
 Rapid advances in structural biology and computer
technology, structure-based computer-aided drug design
(CADD) using docking techniques, virtual screening
and library design, along with target/structure focusing
combinatorial chemistry, has become a powerful tool to
minimize the time period required for screening the
novel potent candidates [60]. Based on these studies,
International Journal of Natural Products Research 2011;1 (3):26-37
35
the synthesis of such compound will result in the
availability of molecules in bulk for commercialization.
8.0. Scope of prospecting in cosmetics:
The discussions in the earlier sections on skin whitening,
antiacne, hair growth promoters, herbal hair colours and the
cellulite reduction are encouragive in prospecting the herbs
with potent cosmetic benefits. The light needs to be thrown in
the areas like antidandruff, antiwrinkling, antilice, skin
moisturisation and sebum control where in the personal care
industry is running short of the effective leads [61]. Hence,
there is a wide scope for prospecting the herbs with potent
cosmetic benefits.
9.0. Acknowledgement
The authors thank Mr. Sandeep Kaul (CEO- PCPB) and Dr.
Venkat Krishnan (Chief scientist – PCPB) for supporting this
work.
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