ALSO: ALICANTE // AZORES // BELGIUM // BRITTANY // COPENHAGEN // HAVANA // NEPAL

March
2022

Contents

64 Costa Rica 98 Ireland 120 Havana

Discover natural wonders, meet Legends of saints and an ancient Whether through salsa beats or
cultural custodians and explore mining heritage loom large on the purr of an engine, the Cuban
national parks teeming with life the sea-thrashed Copper Coast capital is best explored by ear

86 Sicily 110 Vietnam 130 Bristol

A revived inland pilgrimage Rising like a lost world from Great food, a buzzing arts scene
route offers an intimate portrait Lan Ha Bay, Cát Bà is a haven for and eclectic neighbourhoods in
of Italy’s largest island wildlife and adventure travellers one of the UK’s hippest cities Issue 100
I N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L L E R I S T H E U K ’ S # 1 T R AV E L M A G A Z I N E B Y S U B S C R I P T I O N S

March 2022 5
 March
2022

Contents

17 28 44

SMART TRAVELLER 33 The word TRAVEL GEEKS

How to volunteer responsibly on your travels
13 Snapshot 140 Travel Geeks
Out on the waters of the Isle of Skye 34 Kit list The experts’ travel manual
Wildlife photography gear for spring
14 Big picture 100 issues of National
152
Meerkats in South Africa 37 Competition Geographic Traveller (UK)
Win a three-night luxury break in Cyprus A look back at the past 11 years of award-
17 A year to remember winning travel content
Birmingham steps into the spotlight in 2022 39 Author series
Lizzie Pook on Western Australia GET IN TOUCH
19 Go the distance
All aboard the world’s longest rail journey 40 Meet the adventurer 146 Subscriptions
Wingsuit pilot Géraldine Fasnacht Make the most of our latest offer
21 Food
A taste of Nepalese cuisine 42 Online 177 Inbox
Highlights from the website Your letters, emails and tweets
23 On the trail
A tour of Belgium’s brilliant beer scene INSIDER 178 Your pictures
This month’s best travel photos
25 Rooms 44 Weekender: Brittany
The best new hotels in Belgrade Bracing clifftop walks, fresh oysters and
seafaring heritage on France’s Emerald Coast
26 Family DON’T MISS
Tried-and-tested activities in New York 50 Eat: Azores
Discover curious flavours and a burgeoning 148National Geographic
28 Inside guide wine scene in the Atlantic archipelago Traveller Food Festival
Eclectic art and local cuisine in Alicante Experience the world through food and
56 Sleep: Copenhagen travel this summer
31 Stay at home The ultimate hotel guide to the Danish
What to do in riverside Richmond capital, from palatial pads to eco hangouts

G O O N L I N E V I S I T N AT I O N A LG EO G R A P H I C .C O . U K / T R AV E L F O R N E W T R AV E L F E AT U R E S DA I LY

6 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 Contributors
Géraldine Fasnacht
It took my team two years to prepare for
a wingsuit flight in Antarctica. Then, we
spent two months camped at the bottom of
the Holtanna Peak on a glacier, just four of
us. Finally, we got lucky with the weather.
MEET THE ADVENTURER P.40
Sarah Barrell
A Sicily trek delivered mud, sweat and
tears, but just rewards for pilgrims; the
Magna Via Francigena, a revived ancient
coast-to-coast route, gets to the heart of
the island, its unique inland culture and
disarmingly hospitable people. SICILY P.86
National Geographic Traveller (UK)
Editorial Director: Maria Pieri
Editor: Pat Riddell
Deputy Editor: Amelia Duggan
Commissioning Editor:
Connor McGovern
Senior Editor: Sarah Barrell
Executive Editor: Glen Mutel
Associate Editor: Nicola Trup
Digital Editor: Josephine Price
Deputy Digital Editor: Nora Wallaya
Content Editor:
Charlotte Wigram-Evans
Assistant Content Editor:
Angela Locatelli
Project Editors: Jo Fletcher-Cross,
Zane Henry, Farida Zeynalova
Project Assistant: Sacha Scoging
Editorial Admin Assistant:
Tabitha Grainge
Head of Sub Editors:
Hannah Doherty (maternity leave)
Sub Editors: Chris Horton,
Ben Murray, Nick Mee, Karen Yates
Operations Manager:
Seamus McDermott
Digital Marketing Manager:
Prabbie Kaur
Head of Events: Sabera Sattar
Marketing Manager — Events:
Angelique Mannan
Art Director: Becky Redman
Art Editors: Lauren Atkinson-Smith,
Lauren Gamp
Senior Designers: Liz Owens,
Dean Reynolds, Kelly McKenna
(maternity leave)
Designer: Rosie Klein
Picture Editor: Olly Puglisi
Production Manager: Daniel Gregory
Production Controller:
Joe Mendonca
Commercial Director:
Matthew Midworth
Head of Campaigns: William Allen
Campaigns Team:
James Bendien, Jonathan
Carrillo Saez, Bob Jalaf,
Kevin Killen, Gabriela Milkova
(maternity leave), Mark Salmon,
Oscar Williams
Head of National Geographic
Traveller — The Collection:
Danny Pegg
APL Media
Chief Executive: Anthony Leyens
Managing Director:
Matthew Jackson
Sales Director: Alex Vignali
Head of Commercial Strategy:
Chris Debbinney-Wright
APL Business Development Team:
Adam Fox, Cynthia Lawrence
Office Manager: Hayley Rabin
Head of Finance: Ryan McShaw
Credit Manager: Craig Chappell
Accounts Manager: Siobhan Grover
Accounts Assistants:
Isabelle Gaze, Ramona McShaw

National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Limited,

Kerry Walker
Ireland’s Copper Coast is far less feted than
the Wild Atlantic Way, but offers the same
wave-hammered coastlines and prehistoric
treasures. Meanwhile, the wider region is
busy carving out a reputation as one of the
country’s food hotspots. IRELAND P.98
Unit 310, Highgate Studios, 53-79 Highgate Road, London NW5 1TL
nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Editorial T: 020 7253 9906. editorial@natgeotraveller.co.uk
Photography T: 020 7253 9906. photography@natgeotraveller.co.uk
Sales/Admin T: 020 7253 9909. F: 020 7253 9907. sales@natgeotraveller.co.uk
Subscriptions T: 01293 312 166. natgeotraveller@subscriptionhelpline.co.uk
National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Ltd under license from
National Geographic Partners, LLC. For more information contact natgeo.com/info.
Their entire contents are protected by copyright 2022 and all rights are reserved.
Reproduction without prior permission is forbidden. Every care is taken in compiling
the contents of the magazine, but the publishers assume no responsibility in the
effect arising therefrom. Readers are advised to seek professional advice before
acting on any information which is contained in the magazine. Neither APL Media Ltd
or National Geographic Traveller magazine accept any liability for views expressed,
pictures used or claims made by advertisers.

National Geographic Partners International Publishing

Editorial Director: Senior Vice President: Yulia P. Boyle

Jamie Lafferty
I found myself in Havana just after Cuba
reopened after almost two years of
lockdown. A famously musical city, it had
been hushed by the pandemic, yet the
sounds of Havana were starting to return
to something like normal. HAVANA P.120
Jack Palfrey
It was a joy to reacquaint myself with
Bristol. From fine dining restaurants
in shipping containers to campsites in
warehouses, it’s hard to find somewhere in
the UK that offers a more exciting city break
— or a better pint of cider. BRISTOL P.130
Susan Goldberg Senior Director: Ariel Deiaco-Lohr
General Manager, NG Media: Senior Manager: Rossana Stella
David Miller
Headquarters
International Editions
1145 17th St. NW, Washington, DC
Editorial Director: 20036-4688, USA
Amy Kolczak
Deputy Editorial Director: National Geographic Partners returns
Darren Smith ÓǯœvˆÌëÀœVii`Ã̜̅i˜œ˜«ÀœwÌ
Editor: Leigh Mitnick National Geographic Society to fund
Translation Manager: work in the areas of science, exploration,
Beata Nas conservation and education.
Editors: CHINA Sophie Huang;
FRANCE Gabriel Joseph-Dezaize;
GERMANY Werner Siefer; INDIA
Lakshmi Sankaran; ITALY Marco
Cattaneo; LATIN AMERICA Claudia
Muzzi; NETHERLANDS Robbert
Vermue; POLAND Agnieszka Franus;
ROMANIA Catalin Gruia; RUSSIA Ivan
Vasin; SOUTH KOREA Bo-yeon Lim;
SPAIN Josan Ruiz; TURKEY Nesibe Bat
Copyright © 2022 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All Rights Reserved. National
Geographic Traveller and the Yellow Border Design are registered trademarks of
National Geographic Society and used under license. Printed in the UK.

8 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 100% BEER
0% ALCOHOL
B R E W E D F O R T H O S E W H O WA N T T O D O M O R E

WA N T T O T R Y D AY S ?
G et 20% O F F at try.days brewi ng .c o m / t ravel le r
o r scan t he Q R c od e
 DON’T MISS

Editor’s
letter

W
elcome to our 100th issue! After 11 years,
countless words, pages and photographs
— and everything that’s happened in the past 100 issues of National
Geographic Traveller (UK)
two years — this truly feels like a landmark. It’s testament Join us on a trip down memory lane as we
to you, our readers, that we’re still going — stronger than look back at 11 years of the magazine. From
ever — so first and foremost we’d like to thank you for event launches to award-winning features, we
share some of our editorial highlights (p.152)
being with us, whether this is your first issue or your 100th.
When we were plotting the launch of the magazine in
2010, it seemed a good idea to create something we’d love
to read ourselves: a magazine as much about inspiration as
aspiration. Ever since, our aim has been to urge people to Covid-19
explore, whether that’s vicariously through the pages of
The ongoing pandemic continues
the magazine at home or in far-flung corners on the other to affect travel. Please note,
side of the world. prices and travel advice are
As we look ahead, there’s more need than ever to think subject to change. Contact your
travel provider for the most up-
about how we travel. National Geographic Traveller has
to-date information. For the latest
always been about sustainable, responsible travel, and we news on safe travel and border
hope you’ll join as we continue to champion this area over restrictions, visit gov.uk/fcdo
the next century of issues.
With that in mind, our cover story this month celebrates
the poster child of ecotourism: Costa Rica. The Central
American country established its credentials decades ago
on a very simple premise: protecting its exceptional SUBSCRIBE TODAY
biodiversity. A fitting cover story for a landmark issue.

PAT RIDDELL, EDITOR

@patriddell
@patriddell

AWARD-WINNING NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER

AITO Young Travel Writer of the Year 2021 • LATA Media Awards 2020: Online Consumer Feature of the Year
Award • BGTW Awards 2020: Travel Feature of the Year — Non UK • Travel Media Awards 2020: Consumer
Writer of the Year • British Travel Awards 2019: Best Consumer Travel Magazine • BGTW Awards 2019:
Get three issues for just £5!
Best Travel Writer • BGTW Awards 2019: Best Europe Travel Feature • Travel Media Awards 2019: Young
Writer of the Year • Travel Media Awards 2019: Specialist Travel Writer of the Year • AITO Travel Writer of the
natgeotraveller.
Year 2019 • AITO Young Travel Writer of the Year 2019 • BGTW Awards 2018: Best Travel Writer • Travel Media imbmsubscriptions.com/NGT5
Awards 2018: Consumer Writer of the Year • BSME Talent Awards 2018: Best Designer • British Travel Awards or call 01293 312166 and quote ‘NGT5’
2017: Best Consumer Travel Magazine • BGTW Awards 2017: Best Travel Writer • BGTW Awards 2016:
Best Travel Writer • British Travel Awards 2015: Best Consumer Travel Magazine

SEARCH FOR NATGEOTRAVELUK ON FACEBOOK TWITTER INSTAGRAM PINTEREST

10 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
SMART TRAVELLER
©ĂÁőΎʼnĢäūͭͭ;ĩĩàͭͭgĢőĂäőŅÁĆěͭͭƒĩĩġʼnͭͭ;ÁġĆěűͭͭHĢʼnĆàäúŖĆàäͭͭ‡őÁűÁőĂĩġäͭͭƋ
 äūĩŅà

SNAPSHOT

Bally Philp,
Isle of Skye,Scotland
For the best part of three decades, Bally Philp
has skippered a boat around the Isle of Skye.
Fishing is in Bally’s blood — he comes from a
family of anglers that includes his grandfather,
father, brothers and uncles. “These days, I
just fish locally and only target langoustine,”
he says. A more responsible approach is
important to Bally, so he exclusively uses creels
to fish now, which involves dropping baited
baskets onto the seabed and retrieving them
later. “I find the low impact creel fishing has
on the environment and the high selectivity
it offers help make it the best type of in-shore
fishing.” JEREMY FLINT // PHOTOGRAPHER

iÀi“Þyˆ˜Ì«…œÌœ}À>«…Þ°Vœ“
JiÀi“Þyˆ˜Ì«…œÌœ}À>«…Þ

March 2022 13
SMART TRAVELLER

BIG PICTURE

Tswalu Kalahari
Reserve, South Africa
This group of meerkats has grown used to
the presence of humans in their reserve over
the past decade. In fact, they were far too
preoccupied with lounging around, hunting
for insects, grooming and fighting among
themselves to notice my presence. I was
therefore able to use a wide angle lens to
include, in the background, the arid savannah
and mountains of northern South Africa they
call home. To capture the meerkats’ features,
I applied some techniques normally used when
photographing people to create a portrait-like
shot. THOMAS PESCHAK// PHOTOGRAPHER

thomaspeschak.com
@thomaspeschak

Shortlisted in the People’s Choice Award at

the Wildlife Photographer of the Year 2022
nhm.ac.uk/wpy

14 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
SMART TRAVELLER

March 2022 15
 Wet and wild thrills meet laid-back relaxation at Fodele Beach

They may be the polar opposite of holidays,
but if you want to be able to choose between
a pampering or enjoying an activity-packed
itinerary, check yourself into Crete’s Fodele
Beach & Water Park Resort. Just 25km west
of Heraklion Airport, the site is carved into the
cliffside overlooking the Sea of Crete. Those who
prefer a horizontal holiday can relax with a full-
body massage or spa treatment, or simply chill
with a cocktail in hand on the Balinese beach
beds. More energetic guests can take advantage
of the slides, rides and 950m2 of dazzling pools,
or strut their stuff on the basketball and tennis
courts. Add in a collection of restaurants that
take inspiration from the world’s culinary capitals
and you’ve got a resort to write home about.

fodelebeach.gr

BIRMINGHAM
A YEAR TO
REMEMBER
Expect aerial displays, top athletes and Britpop stalwarts as
the West Midlands city celebrates 2022 in the spotlight
Birmingham will step into the spotlight in
a major way in 2022, when it hosts not just
one but two large-scale events, both of which
will put the UK’s second city — and the wider
West Midlands region — firmly on the map.
The first draw in its big year is the
BIRMINGHAM 2022 FESTIVAL , which gets off
IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; HANNAH METCALFE
to a flying start with opening extravaganza
Wondrous Stories. The aerial spectacle
involves bicycles, a colossal globe and even
a flying book, plus jaw-dropping digital
projections. Taking place from 17 to 20 March
in Centenary Square, next to the Library of
Birmingham, the show is free to watch and
features a cast of more than 300 performers.
A celebration of the West Midlands region
and its people and cultures, the festival
itself features hundreds of local performers,
spanning the worlds of art, dance, theatre,
photography and much more, and runs until
August 2022.
Wondrous Stories won’t be the city’s
only opening ceremony of the year.
Around 30,000 spectators are expected
when the COMMONWEALTH GAMES kicks
off in grand style on 28 July. Peaky Blinders
creator Steven Knight is part of the team
producing the show at the redeveloped
Alexander Stadium in the city’s Perry Barr
area. International athletes will compete
in 19 different sports at a host of venues
across the region. The 12 days of top-class
sport — including an integrated para sport
programme — will culminate in a closing
ceremony on 8 August. birmingham2022.com
RICHARD FRANKS
SMART TRAVELLER
Performance at Birmingham
Mela, which celebrates
its 10th year in 2022
LEFT: Library of Birmingham,
Centenary Square
DATES FOR THE DIARY
REOPENING OF THE BIRMINGHAM
MUSEUM & ART GALLERY
The cultural hub will partially
reopen on 28 April; don’t miss In
The Que, an exhibition of artefacts
and paraphernalia from the city’s
legendary Que Club music venue.
birminghammuseums.org.uk
BIRMINGHAM COCKTAIL
WEEKEND
With over 30 venues involved, this event
raises a glass to the very best tipples,
mixologists and bars in the city. 8-10
July. birminghamcocktailweekend.co.uk
BIRMINGHAM MELA
The UK’s biggest South Asian music
festival is back for a 10th-birthday
extravaganza, with live music and
dance, world cuisine and shopping
bazaars, for just £2 entry each day.
27-28 August. birminghammela.com
MOSELEY FOLK & ARTS FESTIVAL
Headliners of this eclectic event
— held in an 11-acre woodland glade
— include Britpop stalwarts Supergrass
and US blues legend Seasick Steve,
with Philadelphia psych-folkers Kurt
Vile & The Violators also taking to the
stage in Moseley Park. 2-4 September.
moseleyfolk.co.uk
March 2022 17
 Slow down into the island pace of life at The Syntopia
A top hotel offers a whole lot more than just a

place to rest your head at night, which is why
The Syntopia has turned so many heads since
it opened earlier this year. Located on the north
coast of Crete close to the city of Rethymno, the
adult-only property channels bohemian vibes in
its decor and as such, relaxation is the order of
the day. There are two pools ready for a leisurely
dip, as well as fresh buffets and street food-style
TOBDLT JO UIF SFTUBVSBOU "GUFS HFUUJOH ZPVS mMM
ZPVDBOmOEZPVS[FOJOUIFXFMMOFTTDFOUSFXJUI
indulgent spa treatments. Come the evenings,
there’s an array of events to enjoy, from live
concerts and wine-tasting sessions, to an open-
BJSDJOFNBTIPXJOHDMBTTJDmMNTVOEFSOFBUIUIF
Cretan sky. However you decide to spend your
stay here, you won’t fail to be won over by The
Syntopia’s luxurious and contemporary charm.

thesyntopiahotel.gr
 SMART TRAVELLER

R A I L T R AV E L

GO THE DISTANCE
At almost 12,000 miles, what’s thought to be the world’s longest continuous
train journey has opened up. But how feasible is it for travellers?

There’s slow travel — and then there’s really
slow travel.
In December, a new railway opened
between Kunming, southwest China, and the
Laotian capital of Vientiane. It’s hoped the
high-speed link will boost trade between the
two countries, but for some travellers, this
was the missing piece of a cross-continent
jigsaw, meaning what might just be the
world’s longest possible rail journey has
fi nally come together.
Mark Smith, the man behind rail guide
seat61.com, along with Reddit contributor
htGoSEVe, pored over data to figure out the
logistics of this epic adventure. Starting in
Lagos, in the Algarve, the journey would
take travellers across the border into Spain
and into France, before a change in Paris.
From there, it would speed through Eastern
Europe before a stopover in Moscow, where
passengers would then embark on a near-
5,000-mile leg across Russia and Mongolia
to Beijing. After exploring the Chinese
capital, it’s then a number of trains snaking
through Southeast Asia, fi nishing up at the
tip of the Malay Peninsula. At almost 12,000
miles, this would be the ultimate in slow
travel, with train carriage windows offering
a slideshow of scenery with every passing
time zone — the dramatic Pyrenees; Siberia’s
vast birch forests; the Mongolian steppe; the
tropical forests of Thailand. You can expect
to set aside around £1,000 for one-way tickets
and three weeks’ annual leave, stopovers
included. By contrast, a fl ight between
Portugal and Singapore takes the best part
of 24 hours and involves at least one change
(and some serious jet lag).
But don’t be fooled — this isn’t one
smooth, continuous journey; in fact, it’s
anything but for now. There are visas and
cross-city transfers to consider, and several
sections of the route — including Paris to
Moscow, the mammoth Moscow to Beijing
leg, and the connection between China and
Laos — are currently suspended due to the
pandemic, meaning travellers will have to
wait a little longer before they can piece
together their own odyssey on the rails.
CONNOR MCGOVERN

IN NUMBERS

THE ROUTE: PORTUGAL TO SINGAPORE

13 21 €1,200 4,735 1,653
IMAGE: GETTY

the total number of countries the approximate number (£1,022) the estimated cost the length in miles of the the length in miles of
the route passes through, of days the journey is of one-way train tickets. Moscow-Beijing stretch, by the route in total, as
spanning two continents and expected to take, including A comparative airfare would far the longest section of measured from Lagos in
eight time zones various stopovers cost around £768 the route Portugal to Singapore

March 2022 19
 SMART TRAVELLER

LEFT: Kukhura ko momo (steamed

chicken momos with ginger and chilli),
served with a tomato sesame chutney

THE INGREDIENT

Jimbu, part of the

allium family, has a
flavour that combines
garlic, chives and
shallot. Harvested from
June to September, it’s
dried for use in winter.

A TA S T E O F

NEPAL SANTOSH
SHAH is a chef,
Chef Santosh Shah discusses the flavours, author and former
ingredients and dishes of his homeland finalist on MasterChef:
The Professionals

For a country that only extends about 550
miles from west to east and roughly 125
miles from north to south, Nepal has a
unique geographical structure. In the high
Himalayas, small farming communities
grow crops and raise livestock using the
inherited knowledge of their ancestors. In
the temperate climate of the high hills, we
grow cabbages, root vegetables and greens,
while the subtropical middle hills have the
perfect climate for citrus, peaches, apples,
tomatoes and aubergines.
Further south, in the tropical Terai, you’ll
find mangoes, papayas, bananas, passion
fruit, avocados, sugar cane and rice paddies.
The tropical and subtropical areas rely on
the summer monsoon to grow crops, but
IMAGES: MATT RUSSELL
Our most famous preserve, gundruk, is MUST-TRY DISHES
made with green leaves, often from radish or
mustard plants, fermented and dried. It keeps MOMOS
for many months and is used throughout These steamed dumplings are
the winter in soups, stews and pickles. filled with meat (buffalo was
Knowledge of what’s good for you, and the common when I was a child) or
use of herbs and spices to nurture the body, vegetables and are an all-day dish.
is integrated into Nepali cooking and follows When accompanied by a broth,
ayurvedic and Chinese medicinal traditions. they’re called jhol momos.
My joy as a chef comes from playing with
flavours and reinventing traditional recipes SUKUTI
without losing their essence. Take, for Sun-dried meat, either buffalo
example, jimbu, a wild garlic leaf that grows or goat, is a speciality of the
on the pastures of the Himalayan plateaus. mountains, eaten either as a
It’s mainly used as tempering, heated in hot snack or as a main meal with rice
oil, to drizzle over lentil stews, but it can be flakes and puffed rice.
used in other ways: dehydrated and reduced

the start, length and amount of rainfall
during the monsoon is different every year.
This is one of the reasons why we rely on
fermentation, in order to save the crops
and extend our supplies throughout the
long winters.
to powder, it brings the flavour of a marinade
to a whole new level.
This is an edited extract from Ayla: A Feast
of Nepali Dishes from Terai, Hills and the
Himalayas, by Santosh Shah, published by
DK, £20.
WILD BOAR CURRY
This traditional dish is difficult to
source these days as it’s become
harder to hunt wild boar, but it’s
delicious, made with onion, garlic,
ginger and slow-cooked boar.

March 2022 21
‘Cycling through Water’ is a unique cycling experience in which you cycle more than
200 meters through a pond, all the way from one bank to the other. In the middle,
the water is at eye level on both sides. You feel, see and smell the water. A beautiful
and unique view over the landscape.

The path is located at node 91 of the cycle node network in Limburg (Bokrijk) and is
accessible to walkers and joggers as well.

ON THE TR AIL
BELGIUM
Set off through the region of
Wallonia by bike to discover fairytale
scenery and world-class Belgian
beer. Words: Connor McGovern
1 NAMUR
Start off in the regional capital,
sitting astride the River Meuse
in the shadow of rocky bluffs. It
has a picturesque old town that’s
a joy to explore on foot, home to
red-brick houses, cobbled lanes
and a smattering of museums.
Call into Le Ratin-Tot, which has
been feeding and watering the
city’s residents since 1616, and
go for a bottle of malty Hercule
stout, named for fictional
Belgian sleuth Hercule Poirot.
namurtourisme.be
2 BRASSERIE DU BOCQ
A leisurely cycle south east takes
you to the village of Purnode,
home to the family-run Brasserie
du Bocq. Tours of the brewery
are on hold for now, but you can
still pick up some bottles of its
Blanche de Namur, a mellow
white beer. There are other
varieties to try, too, including the
rich Gauloise Brune brown beer
and the fruity, blood-red Tête de
Mort Red, which translates as
‘head of death’ — an appropriate
name, given its 8.2% ABV. bocq.be
3 DINANT
It’s hard not to be bowled over by
this city’s setting, squeezed in
between the Meuse and a soaring
cliff, crowned with an impressive
citadel. Head to La Capsule for
a drink on the riverside terrace.
ILLUSTRATION: MARTIN HAAKE
Take your pick from the menu
of Belgian beers, including the
fruity Ardennes Triple or the
hoppy Moinette Blonde, and
tuck into local cheeses and
charcuterie. Spend the night in
the town before setting off the
next morning. lacapsule.be
SMART TRAVELLER
4 ROCHEFORT
Rest your legs in riverside
Rochefort, known for its
Trappist brewery, part of the
13th-century Rochefort Abbey.
The abbey (and its brewery) has
had a long, turbulent history,
4
but the monks perfected its dark
beers in the 1960s and now brew
excellent beers using the house
yeast. Expect dark drinks with
almost herbal notes of chocolate
and coffee, topped with creamy
froth. Local bars and restaurants
serve Trappistes Rochefort.
5 BOUILLON CASTLE
Pedal south through the
foothills of the Ardennes to this
forbidding castle located above
a bend in the Semois River.
Dating to the eighth century,
Bouillon was sold by the knight
Godefroid of Bouillon in the 11th
century to fund his expedition
to the Holy Land during the First
Crusade. The castle still retains
much of its medieval atmosphere
and offers plenty of attractions,
including a falconry centre.
bouilloninitiative.be
6 ORVAL ABBEY
5
Finish with a visit to another of
Belgium’s Trappist monasteries,
which holds open days each
year. Orval takes its name from
the French for ‘valley of gold’,
relating to a myth about the
widowed Matilda of Tuscany
being presented with a gold ring
by a trout in a spring. The same
spring’s water has been used in
Orval’s eponymous beer since
the 1930s, a brew beloved for its
6
rich, maple colour and earthy,
fruity profile. orval.be
March 2022 23
 MOST PERSONALIZED LUXURY SERVICE IN BELGRADE

6DLQW7HQKRWHO6YHWRJ6DYH9UDÄDU%HRJUDG6UELMD
info@saintten.com / +381 11 4116633 / saintten.com
 SMART TRAVELLER

HOTEL BOTANICA
This arty hotel takes inspiration from the
natural world. With names like Lavender,
Amaryllis and Iris, rooms have paintings
of flowers on the walls and plants on the
bedside tables. Meanwhile, you’ll fi nd mini
living artworks of moss in the corridors,
foliage by the lift and the lush public areas
swaddled in green. From £54, room only.
botanicaarthotel.rs

THE BABE
Just four rooms and one apartment make
up this elegantly modern hotel in Senjak,
near the Belgrade Waterfront. It might be
small, but it’s gem of a place, with palm trees
flanking a Chesterfield sofa in the lobby-
cum-lounge, and you can even book out the
whole property. From £127. thebabehotel.com

SAINT TEN
W H E R E TO S TAY Set in the elegant Vračar neighbourhood, this
hotel is as sumptuous as its Small Luxury

BELGRADE
Hotels of the World membership suggests.
Rooms are boutique-luxe, with plush
headboards hitting the ceiling, a palette
of taupes and neutrals, and glass-walled
bathrooms. There’s a mini sauna and spa
Bold and brilliant hotels are channelling area, as well as a glam restaurant, L’Adresse.
the lively spirit of the Serbian capital From £144. saintten.com JULIA BUCKLEY

MAMA SHELTER
Belgrade is buzzing. The Serbian capital is going from
strength to strength as a city break, helped in no small
part by its legendary nightlife, which means hoteliers
know their beds — when you fi nally collapse into them
— need to be seriously comfortable.
Step forward a string of new, modern properties that
have revolutionised the city’s hotel scene. There’s been a
glut of openings in Belgrade pre-pandemic, and they’re
ALL RATES QUOTED ARE FOR DOUBLE ROOMS, B&B, UNLESS OTHERWISE

still going strong — November 2021 saw the opening of

a Hotel Indigo from IHG — but hotels like Mama Shelter
have led the charge. Amor Jalil, a protege of acclaimed
designer Philippe Starck, devised the 125 rooms, while
SPECIFIED. IMAGES: FRANCIS AMIAND, THE BABE HOTEL

Paris-based designers Dion & Arles have gone for a

typically zany Mama style with the decor. Read between
the lines, though, and this bold aesthetic also manages
to tell the story of Belgrade: beyond the cartoonish
lampshades are kilim-style rugs recalling the Balkans’
Ottoman history, while the brutalist buildings that went
up during the communist era fi nd resonance in subtle
details, such as stark, blocky, neon-framed mirrors.
As with all Mama Shelter properties, there’s a focus on
the food and drink, with Ottoman-style wicker thrones
in the restaurant, live DJs in the bar and a sprawling
ABOVE: Bedside
roof terrace where you’ll fi nd piazza-style seating round accessories at
a fi repit, as well as tables offering views of the city’s Mama Shelter
skyline. Who needs to party all night when you have this RIGHT: Deluxe double
waiting for you? From £106. mamashelter.com room at The Babe

March 2022 25
SMART TRAVELLER

FA M I LY

A TEENAGER
IN NEW YORK
Check out these tried-and-tested successes
for entertaining teens in the Big Apple

Sure enough, New York has plenty of reliable ways to keep the kids
entertained, but what do the children really want to do? With two
teens to amuse, we (mum and dad) hunted down the must-do family
experiences that wouldn’t break the bank — with some surprise hits.
Case in point: we all preferred the slick new EDGE OBSERVATION DECK
at Hudson Yards to the classic Empire State Building experience.
For one, tickets are cheaper (from $31 [£23] per person, compared
to $36 [£27]) and kids love the glass floor 100 storeys above ground.
Plus, the 360-degree views are superlative and feature the Empire
State Building itself. Book in half an hour before sunset to catch the
changing light across the city. edgenyc.com
NEW YORK FERRIES are just as scenic as the expensive cruises
around Liberty Island, yet they cost the same as the subway ($2.75
[£2]), and passengers under 1.1m go free. We hopped on one at the
East 34th Street pier and got off in Dumbo. Zigzagging boardwalks
link together beaches, bandstands and antique JANE’S CAROUSEL ,
with cinematic Manhattan views. After a whirl on the wooden horses,
we sat outside the TIME OUT MARKET with tacos and watched locals
sashay past with their designer dogs. ferry.nyc janescarousel.com
timeout.com/newyork
The CENTRAL PARK CONSERVANCY runs 90-minute family tours
around the area they call Turtle Pond from $5 (£3.75) per family (two
adults, up to four children), where staff share their knowledge of all
Mum and
things reptilian, including the resident red-eared terrapins. When the
Dad travelled
with two
girls got weary, we settled down on a bench in STRAWBERRY FIELDS to
daughters, aged watch buskers play The Beatles’ songs. centralparknyc.org
13 and 11 We also strolled the HIGH LINE to LITTLE ISLAND, the floating
pleasure park at Pier 54 that opened in 2021. The response? Meh. But
we then hit the vintage stores of CHELSEA and design market ARTISTS
& FLEAS , and an hour flew by as we sifted through costume jewellery,
novelty tees, sports memorabilia and licence plates, rounded off with
huge slices at STELLA’S PIZZA . stellaspizza110.com
Of all the sporting events in the US, one of the most hallowed is
baseball at YANKEE STADIUM, with tickets from $10 (£7.50). Don’t know
the rules? No matter: a Yankees game is as much about the vibe as the
sport. Feel the buzz of the fans, tuck into some hotdogs and watch the
IMAGES: JULIAN MACKLER; GETTY; ALAMY

sun sink behind the bleachers. mlb.com/yankees ELLEN HIMELFARB

HOW TO DO IT: ÀˆÌˆÃ…čˆÀÜ>ÞÃyˆiÃvÀœ“i>̅ÀœÜ̜ iÜ9œÀŽ½ÃčˆÀ«œÀÌ°

+Õ>`Àœœ“Ã>Ì̅i7>ň˜}̜˜-µÕ>ÀiœÌiÃÌ>ÀÌ>ÌfÓäx­Ë£xή]Àœœ“œ˜Þ°
ba.com washingtonsquarehotel.com
Rooms at the M Social Hotel Times Square New York start at $112 (£84), room
œ˜Þ°millenniumhotels.com

FROM TOP: Edge observation deck at Hudson Yards; Jane’s Carousel, overlooking
Brooklyn Bridge; baseball at Yankee Stadium

26 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 Recently, travel companies had to adapt and
react quickly to exceptional circumstances.
By staying true to our values, we pulled together
and did the right thing by our customers —
because valuing individuals and relationships has
been key to our success since 1906. And because
actions speak louder than words, we were awarded
Recommended Provider status by ‘Which?’.
So travel on with us… We know you won’t settle
for second best, and neither will we.

Terms & Conditions apply. Please visit www.kuoni.co.uk/kuoni-flex-policy for more information
SMART TRAVELLER

INSIDE GUIDE

ALICANTE
Head to the colourful coastal city for art galleries full of Spanish
masterpieces, quirky cocktail bars and revered local rice dishes

In recent years, Alicante has been busy recasting itself as
a food and drink hotspot. Pioneering chefs are breathing
new life into age-old ingredients, while a fascinating
wine route and chic inner-city bars are helping to
promote the award-winning local wine industry. Add
to this a medieval old town, beautiful waterfront and
sweeping beach, and Alicante is rightfully taking its
place as one of Spain’s most exciting coastal cities.
Any trip should start in SANTA CRUZ , Alicante’s oldest
and most beautiful neighbourhood. It’s a labyrinth of
steep steps and intricately tiled homes hidden in the
cliffs of Mount Benacantil. Scale the narrow, flower-
scented streets until you reach the MIRADOR DE SANTA
CRUZ , a viewpoint that takes in the 16th-century fortress
CASTILLO DE SANTA BÁRBARA and the blue-domed
CONCATEDRAL DE SAN NICOLÁS . The neighbourhood is
also home to MACA (Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de
Alicante), fi lled with 20th-century Spanish masterpieces
by the likes of Dalí and Picasso. Nearby is the MUSEO DE
HOGUERAS , where exhibits celebrate the Bonfi res of San
Juan, Alicante’s biggest street fiesta, which takes place
each summer. concatedralalicante.com maca-alicante.es
A 10-minute walk north takes you to the MERCADO
CENTRAL , where more than 300 stalls sell everything from
enormous olives and cured legs of ham to giant wheels
of manchego cheese. EL PALÉ , located on the lower floor,
serves the best home-smoked fish and cold meat platters
in the city, including rosemary-smoked sardines and oak-
smoked duck. On Saturday afternoons, locals flock to the
market’s surrounding streets (make a beeline for PLAZA
25 DE MAYO and CALLE POETA QUINTANA) for a tapas crawl
that, if you pace yourself, can see you through to the early
hours. mercado-central-alicante.negocio.site
If you’d rather settle in for dinner, make a reservation
at CÉSAR ANCA , a gastro bar focusing on creative sharing
plates such as squid filled with mushroom ragout, and
grilled liver, served with peach and dark chocolate.
Save room for dessert at nearby ice cream shop
BORGONESSE , which sells an exquisite turrón ice cream
made with origin-protected nougat from nearby Jijona.
Afterwards, sip mint-stuffed mojitos from a teapot at
EL COSCORRÓN, a jazz bar on Calle Tarifa, wall to wall with
graffiti. grupocesaranca.com borgonesse.com
One of Alicante’s newest boutique hotels, the adults-
only CASA ALBEROLA is housed inside a beautifully
restored neoclassical building. Its minimalist suites
include deep freestanding bathtubs and magnificent
views of the marina. Here, you can roll out of bed onto
the city’s EXPLANADA DE ESPAÑA , a 600-metre-long
waterfront promenade lined with artisan stalls and
al fresco cocktail bars such as SOHO MAR . Be sure to
swing by PERET, a kiosk that’s been serving horchata (a
sweet drink made with tiger nuts) for almost a century.
casaalberolahotel.com sohoalicante.com
The marina is also where you’ll fi nd family-owned
DÁRSENA . All the rice dishes here are excellent, but the
arroz con gambeta y calamar, served with a prawn head
emulsion and fresh-off-the-boat squid, steals the show.
From there, sample some of Alicante’s most exciting
wines at URBAN WINE SHOP & BAR , a relaxed cafe-style
hangout where you can try before you buy, over platters
of locally sourced cheese and meats. If you’re keen to
discover more of the local vineyards and bodegas, follow
the RUTA DEL VINO on a self-guided tour through the
Alicante province, or join an organised wine-tasting trip.
darsena.com urbanwine.es rutadelvinodealicante.com
But it would be remiss to visit Alicante and not enjoy its
most prized asset: the coast. Hop on the hour-long ferry
from the city centre to TABARCA , a mile-long island that
once served as a refuge for Berber pirates. Alicantinos
flock here in the summer to snorkel or paddleboard the
pristine coves before heading to MAR AZUL for its legendary
caldero — a dish of garlicky rockfish stew and rice.
marazultabarca.com alicanteturismo.com JESSICA VINCENT

LIKE A LOCAL OLLETA DE TRIGO
César Anca’s favourite This is a meat stew
originating from the
local dishes interior villages of the
Alicante province. It
The chef moved from contains pork ribs, pulses,
Madrid to Alicante
vegetables and wheat.
in 1997 to open
Bar Guillermo, a family-
his award-winning
restaurant, La Barra owned restaurant behind
de César Anca. He the central market, serves
shares his favourite the city’s best version.
local plates barguillermo.es
COCA AMB TONYINA
I love this dish because it
reminds me of the city’s
Hogueras festival, where
it’s a popular snack. It’s a
type of empanada made
with tuna, onions, pine
nuts and dried anise. My
favourite is from Horno
Rafelet, a bakery that uses
a recipe dating back to
1932. horno-rafelet.es
ARROZ CON PATA
Y MORRO
This is my favourite
local rice dish. The
moist pig’s trotter and
snout combined with
̅iwÀ“}À>ˆ˜ÃœvÀˆVi
give it a great texture
>˜`y>ۜÕÀ°,>V`i
Pla has mastered it.
restaurante
racodelpla.com

28 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
IMAGES: STOCKFOOD; ALAMY
SMART TRAVELLER

Shoppers browse the stalls along

Explanada de España
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Horchata,
a drink made from tiger nuts; view of
Santa Bárbara Castle from the Santa
Cruz neighbourhood; ornate tiling
around a doorway in Santa Cruz

March 2022 29
 


 










 



9Ge,>,RU,e9(,[`e:Se eSB ??eN-SHNVSVa?-e D)e-&H?H5:& ??a&HDS&:HXSe7HV-?eV7 VeKNHY:)-Se eVQX?aeXD:MX-e_K-N:-D&-e

eH3-NeSK &:HXSe&HB1HNVe e\HD)-N/X?eN-SV XN DVe D)e B-D:V:-SeSXNNHXD)-)e$ae eD VXN ?e N ):S-e\7-N-eV7-e\HD)-NSeH/e
D VXN-e& DeV7N:Y-e\:V7eSK-&:-Se4XD)eDH\7-N-e-?S-eHDe- QV7e:De e? D)S& K-eH/e \-:DSK:N:D5e$- XVae\-e N-eDHVe<XSVe7-N-eVHe
-_K-N:-D&-e:Ve\-e N-e7-N-eVHeKN-S-NY-e:Ve



  


 .e8!Z.e%..EeO.'.EW@be!]#*.*e.TWeI0e8.e.TWe%beP;L*Z;TIOeIEe





 de
W8.e e
e.TWeIW.@Te;Ee8.eIO@*e.TWe e!2O;eW!bTeO@*];*.e!E*e
 e.TWeC!@@eIW.@Te;EeITW!e;'!e!W.6IO;.T
e

 



JAAJ^e"F+e-F=Jce



S TAY AT H O M E
RICHMOND
Historic parks, lavish houses and epic Thames views
abound in one of London’s most eclectic corners
Why go
Just 20 minutes by train from bustling
central London, the elegant borough of
Richmond upon Thames feels a world
away with its boutique shops, age-
old pubs and grand, historic houses
tucked away in sprawling grounds. The
headline attraction is Kew Gardens,
but there are plenty more experiences
on offer: spot stags in Richmond Park,
browse the jewellers and gelaterias
around pretty Richmond Green or
hike up to Richmond Hill for sweeping
views of the river. If you prefer to
admire the Thames up close, strike out
on the Thames Path — an easy, scenic
ramble along the water’s edge that
passes weeping willows and pastures.
visitrichmond.co.uk
What to do
One of London’s eight Royal Parks,
Richmond Park covers an area of
2,500 acres and is best known for its
population of around 600 red and
fallow deer. The park is also home
to thousands of ancient trees, which
support a range of rare fungi, birds,
beetles and bats. Elsewhere, don’t miss
17th-century Ham House and Gardens.
Created by the Duke and Duchess of
IMAGES: ALAMY; GETTY
Lauderdale, it’s one of the grandest
Stuart properties in the UK and can
be explored on a tour that takes in
its superb collection of paintings,
furniture and textiles.
royalparks.org.uk nationaltrust.org.uk
SMART TRAVELLER
Cyclists and runners
in Richmond Park
BELOW: Herd of red and
fallow deer in Richmond Park
Where to eat DON’T MISS
In Richmond town centre, Richmond
Thai Kitchen serves up delicious
home-cooked Thai food. Dishes
A stroll along the 21-mile
include garlic salt squid, Thai ‘train stretch of the Thames Path
fried rice’ with chicken and egg (a from Barnes to Hampton
dish traditionally cooked and served
on trains) and khua kling stir fry with Court, which passes through
Auntie’s homemade spicy chilli paste. Richmond. Expect a slide show
richmondthaikitchen.uk
of life by the river: cyclists,
We like swans, ramblers, rowers and
The Roebuck, a friendly pub on houseboats moored along the
Richmond Hill. It sits just above the
Terrace Gardens, which drop down banks. Make time for pit stops
to Petersham Meadows and offer for ice cream, coffee or a drink
spectacular views across the river
— the only view in England protected
at a pub overlooking the water.
by an Act of Parliament. Book ahead nationaltrail.co.uk
for a traditional Sunday roast (the nut
roast wellington is an excellent meat-
free option). greeneking-pubs.co.uk
Where to stay
Revamped in June 2021, the Richmond
Harbour Hotel & Spa sits just a stick’s
throw from the park. It’s the perfect
escape for those looking to recharge:
the renovations mean there’s now a
new HarSPA & Club, kitted out with
a state-of-the-art gym, spin studio
and a 20-metre pool. It also offers
a new Sleep Retreat Experience,
created in collaboration with The
White Company. From £140, B&B.
harbourhotels.co.uk
MARIA PIERI
March 2022 31
 SMART TRAVELLER

Floating guava
market in Bangladesh

T H E WO R D

A HELPING HAND
Susan E. Gibson has been involved in the non-profit sector for more
than 35 years. She offers her tips for responsible voluntourism

WHERE DID YOU FIRST VOLUNTEER AND
WHAT WAS IT LIKE?
Haiti was the first destination I travelled
to with the sole intent to volunteer. I was
interested to learn how wealthier countries
were supporting those with fewer resources.
But getting reliable information about
programmes operating internationally
30 years ago was a challenge, and it turned
out that the organisation was an evangelical
mission. I was uncomfortable that the
missionaries were carrying out activities
that didn’t involve the local residents in the
planning process and moved on after a month.
WHAT ARE THE MOST COMMON MISCONCEPTIONS
ABOUT VOLUNTOURISM?
People thinking the desire to help is enough, and that
‘popping in’ to volunteer for a few hours is helpful. There
might be a feel-good factor for the volunteer, but it does
little to help. For example, there are extensive studies
that indicate volunteering in orphanages in Cambodia
exacerbates the problem, since well-intentioned
volunteers can be viewed as cash cows and the children
don’t benefit from a brief visit. Additionally, in
emergencies and disaster situations, the best
way to help is often just to donate to those
who are best equipped to do so.
WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO CONTINUE TRAVELLING
THE WORLD AS A VOLUNTEER?
When I heard about the success of Grameen
Bank in Bangladesh, I immediately set my
sights on going there to learn about how
small loans were making positive change to
millions of poor women. I was fortunate that
the experience I had as a volunteer evolved
into a career in microfinance consulting.
WHERE ARE SOME OF THE MOST MEMORABLE PLACES
YOU’VE TRAVELLED AS A VOLUNTEER?
Travelling to Sheikhupura in the Punjab, Pakistan,
watching Nasira Habib, a grassroots educator at Khoj,
teaching girls who had never had the opportunity to read
was uplifting. Seeing Kennedy Odede at Shining Hope
For Communities (SHOFCO) in action in Kibera, Nairobi,
Kenya, working with local residents to provide potable
water and access to education for girls was inspiring.
Susan E. Gibson is author of How to be an Amazing
Volunteer Overseas. Barlow Books, £15.99.

SUSAN’S TOP TIPS FOR VOLUNTEERING

START LOCALLY DO YOUR RESEARCH BE RESPECTFUL

IMAGE: GETTY

First get experience of issues closer to home. There Devote time to learning about some of thousands of Whether overseas or in a local community,
are many opportunities at local soup kitchens, drop-in grassroots leaders working around the world. Go with it’s important to remember that you’re a guest
centres serving indigenous people and refugees, and the intent of learning, not helping. Learning from and at a non-governmental organisation (NGO), so be
after-school programmes supporting young people. partnering with local leaders will have the most impact. inquisitive, adaptable and courteous.

March 2022 33
SMART TRAVELLER
WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY
Take your photography to the next level this year with the best
gear for capturing animals in the wild. Words: Nori Jemil
1 LOWEPRO WHISTLER
BACKPACK 450 AW II
Big enough to fit a pro
DSLR and multiple lenses,
this backpack unzips
fully to reveal expandable
compartments for all your
photographic kit, making
it easy to grab gear on the
go. Waterproof and tear-
resistant, it’s a great fl ight
carry-on bag, too. £289.
lowepro.com
2 CRAGHOPPERS
NOSILIFE ADVENTURE II
LONG-SLEEVED SHIRT
This light, crumple-free
shirt has four pockets and
uses bug-repellent and
anti-odour technology to
keep you cool and fresh in
the heat. The neutral desert
sand or soft moss colours
will make you less likely to
scare away the wildlife, too.
£60. craghoppers.com
3 GITZO LÉGENDE TRAVELER
TRIPOD KIT
Weighing only 1.45kg, this
sleek carbon fibre tripod has
a payload of 8kg, meaning
it can support larger lenses
while offering stability. Its
165cm maximum height is
offset by a short column that
enables low shots. At just
43cm when closed, it’s also
very easy to carry around.
£572.99. gitzo.com
4 NIKON D850 DSLR CAMERA
With 45.4 million pixels,
Nikon’s full-frame D850 is a
weather-sealed workhorse
for any terrain. Its detailed
resolution and speed are
just what’s required when a
cheetah’s flying past. The 4K
full-frame video is ideal for
documenting the savannah
in cinematic style. £2,699.
nikon.co.uk
34 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
K IT L I S T
2 5 LENSCOAT LENSSACK
PRO BEAN BAG REALTREE
ADVANTAGE MAX 4
With its U-shaped design
and heavy duty materials,
this beanbag will take the
weight of a telephoto lens
hooked over the door of
a safari jeep. It also has
a removable, aluminium
mounting plate to attach
a tripod head. £141.99.
lenscoat.com
3 6 AF-S NIKKOR 200-500MM
F/5.6E ED VR TELEPHOTO LENS
You’ll need around 300mm
of focal length for distant
subjects, so the Nikkor 200-
4 500mm is a great option at
the lower end of the price
range. It loses nothing of
Nikon’s optical technology,
and will suit enthusiast
photographers who need
a hand-holdable option.
5
£1,299. nikon.co.uk
7 ARC’TERYX ZETA SL JACKET
Minimalist in design and
6 with a lifetime warranty, the
waterproof Zeta is packed
with clever fabrics and
design touches that ensure
7 optimum protection against
the elements while shooting.
It’s super-lightweight (hence
the ‘SL’ in the name) and
can pack down easily for
any photography adventure.
8 £280. arcteryx.com
8 LEE100 CIRCULAR
POLARISING FILTER
Neutral density and
ultraviolet fi lters help to
control haze and over-
exposure, while polarising
fi lters add contrast to
skies and remove water
reflections. By attaching the
holder and turning the fi lter,
you can choose the effect
you want. £209. leefilters.com
 Immerse yourself in the
wonderland of boat rentals
at Boatbooking.at
At BoatBooking you can search and
book securely, from small motor
boats to large luxury yachts.
BoatBooKing
As a leading booking platform, we
are determined to create conditions boatbooking.at
for relaxation so you can break out excursions.boatbooking.at
of everyday life for a little while.

Besides yacht rental we offer you a

wide range of additional services
such as selling tickets for excursions.

Book the yacht +436764600365

you dreamed of
TS Boat Booking GmbH
Pfarrgasse 52/1, 1230 Wien, Austria
I T ’S YOU R H E A RT
T H AT TA K E S YOU PL AC E S
We make your travels to the world’s most magical destinations possible.

But it’s your endless passion for discovery that leads you there.

EXQUISITELY CR AFTED CUISINE.

CUR ATED TR AVEL EXPERIENCES.
SMALL SHIP LUXURY.
CALL OCEANIA CRUISES ON 0345 505 1920
VISIT OCEANIACRUISES.COM
CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR
 COMPETITION

WIN

A THREE-NIGHT LUXURY
GETAWAY FOR TWO TO CYPRUS
National Geographic Traveller (UK) has teamed up FROM ABOVE: Poolside relaxation area
at Parklane; The Gallery at Parklane
with Parklane, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, and
Amathus Holidays to offer an unforgettable escape

THE DESTINATION TO ENTER

Set on a 1,000ft beach near Limassol,
Parklane epitomises Mediterranean luxury, Answer the following question
blending elegant design with the beautiful online at nationalgeographic.
landscape of Cyprus. With four pools, five co.uk/competitions
restaurants, two bars and the Kalloni Spa,
there’s plenty to experience at the resort. WHAT IS THE NAME OF THE SPA
Furthermore, there’s the chance to discover AT PARKLANE?
the local culture through cookery classes,
wine-tasting and cheese-making lessons at a Competition closes 31 March
neighbouring farm. parklanecyprus.com 2022. The winner must be a
resident of the UK aged 18 or over.
THE PRIZE Full T&Cs at nationalgeographic.
The winner and a guest will spend three co.uk/competitions
nights in a Superior Sea View room, on a B&B
basis. The prize includes two return fl ights
IMAGES: MATTHEW SHAW

from London to Limassol to the combined

value of £800, courtesy of Amathus
Holidays, dinner for two at one of the hotel’s
restaurants and a spa treatment for two.
Amathus Holidays’ Luxury Concierge Service
will also be on hand to help curate a truly
bespoke getaway. amathusholidays.co.uk

March 2022 37

NOTES FROM AN AUTHOR // LIZZIE POOK
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Home to milky, turquoise seas and wild, red landscapes, the Kimberley Coast
is shaped by hair-raising tales of the hunt for treasured pearl shells
I
t didn’t take long for the red dirt to find
its way under my fingernails. As we drove
the unsealed bush track — dodging wild
donkeys, bath-sized potholes and scavenging
eagles — I picked it out carefully and crushed
it like confetti into my palm. Glancing out
of the window at spindly gums and bristling
swathes of speargrass, the high sun cast
bold, black shadows onto the road. Little did I
know, this red-dust land would have me in its
thrall for the next 10 years.
The Dampier Peninsula — a pyramid-
shaped landmass that pierces the ocean off
Australia’s northwest Kimberley coast — is
simply crawling with stories. From dinosaur
footprints and Aboriginal creation myths
to fabled shipwrecks and tales of adventure,
hubris and peril, there’s history woven into
this landscape.
When I think of that first journey now, the
memories come in technicolour, shifting like
mirrors in a kaleidoscope: cliffs as red as old,
dried blood sheering into milky, turquoise
seas; sharks, snubfin dolphins and crocs
patrolling the mangroves while jabiru storks
leave fork-like prints on the beaches.
But while the peninsula’s natural beauty
is sublime, it’s a hidden human history
that lured me back to this part of Western
Australia. Because this is a land of pearls; a
place where, centuries ago, men walked the
seabed and prised from the sands shells the
size of soup plates. In the late 19th century,
the township of Broome — due south of
Dampier along that red-dirt bush track —
became the nucleus of a dangerous and often
brutal industry. Ever since I first held a freshly
harvested pearl — shimmering like an eyeball
between my fingertips — I had to learn more
about these treasures. Over time, this interest
became an obsession — one that’s had me
ploughing through dusty museum archives,
walking the landscape with guides and,
ultimately, writing a novel inspired by the
ILLUSTRATION: JACQUI OAKLEY
stories I uncovered.
Historically, humans have put their lives
on the line for pearls — just as they have for
gold, diamonds and other treasures snatched
from the earth. But in Broome and along the
Dampier Peninsula, pearl-diving crews took
their pursuit to the extreme, battling storms,
sharks and decompression sickness to
`űġäġĩŅĆäʼnĩùőĂÁőƇŅʼnő
journey shift like mirrors in
ÁėÁěäĆàĩʼnÚĩłä͢ÚěĆƄʼnÁʼnŅäàÁʼn
old, dried blood sheering into
milky, turquoise seas; sharks,
ʼnĢŖÙƇĢàĩěłĂĆĢʼnÁĢàÚŅĩÚʼn
patrolling the mangroves
while storks leave fork-like
prints on the beaches
SMART TRAVELLER
unearth their quarry. Just like with America’s
Gold Rush, the lure of the valuable pearl shell
— for it was the ‘mother of pearl’ shell and
not the pearl itself that was initially prized
— drew all strata of society to Broome.
Colonists, convicts, whalers, merchant
seamen and immigrant workers all gave this
remote township a rich, swaggering texture.
Crews would push their wooden luggers
through mangrove swamps and out to sea,
the jagged reefs scraping the bottom of
their hulls. They’d spend weeks out on their
boats among rip tides and swirling currents,
descending to the seabed in claustrophobic
hardhat diving suits and lead boots. With
netted bags strung around their necks they’d
bring up piles of weed-encrusted pearl shells,
which would be cleaned and shipped off to
America and Europe to be turned into buttons
and pretty pistol handles. ‘Diver’s paralysis’
(now known as ‘the bends’) meant men were
often pulled up injured, their eyes popping
out. And they faced other dangers of the deep,
too — stalking saltwater crocodiles, deadly sea
snakes and whales, whose clumsy flukes could
become entangled in their air lines.
A poignant monument now overlooks the
water near Broome: a statue of a pregnant
Aboriginal pearl diver bursting from the sea
with a shell in her palms. It’s a stark reminder
that early pearling was an exploitative
industry, one that relied on the forced labour
of indentured and indigenous workers
(even pregnant women, favoured for their
supposedly increased lung capacity).
If you ever do find your way to Broome, hire
a car and take the trip up the long bush road
between Dampier and Broome. Pay a visit to
the Beagle Bay community (it’s respectful
to call ahead before visiting) and knock on
the door to the Sacred Heart Church. Step
inside, and you’ll find the most exquisite altar.
Built by hand by local Aboriginal women, it’s
inlaid with thousands of shimmering mother
of pearl shells — a dazzling glimpse of the
treasures found on these shores, but most
importantly, a reminder of the buried stories
they hold within them.
Moonlight and the Pearler’s Daughter, by Lizzie Pook,
is published by Mantle, £14.99
@lizziepook
March 2022 39
SMART TRAVELLER
MEET THE ADVENTURER
GÉRALDINE FASNACHT
Nicknamed the ‘bird woman’ for her pioneering wingsuit flights, the Swiss
adventurer has blazed a trail of world firsts, from the Alps to Antarctica
What inspired you to get into extreme sports?
By the time I was 15, my idols were Steve Klassen and
Gilles Voirol; I had posters on my bedroom wall. They
were strong and fast snowboarding champions, always
finding aesthetic lines on the mountain. I knew then I
wanted to ride like them on the Bec des Rosses, the Swiss
peak home to the most extreme skiing and boarding
competition in the world, Verbier Xtreme. [Géraldine won
the competition in 2002, 2003 and 2009.]
When did your passion for wingsuit flying begin?
I did my first wingsuit flight in 2001, in Voss, Norway. I
was completely focused on my exit from the plane — how
to navigate the door at the back, how to hold my body
in the air. There was a lot to think about. But when I
jumped, I just had the feeling of flying like a bird. It was
so intense that I just flew and flew, enjoying the view, and
forgot to turn to land back at the airport!
How did you prepare for this?
I started skydiving in 1998 when I was 18 years old with
a tandem jump. As soon as I landed, I wanted to jump
again. I started the process for getting my own skydiving
licence straight away. In 2001, I did my first base jump [a
parachute jump from a fixed object] — I really loved the
feeling of starting from a solid place and then simply
feeling the air accelerating in my ears. When I switched
from highway bridges to mountains, I realised I was in
my element, surrounded by nature.
40 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Where’s the best place to wingsuit?
I love a beautiful mountain — to jump and draw a line of
flight over a ridge or glacier, to fly over forests of different
colours or seracs [columns of glacial ice]. I think my
home, Verbier, is the best playground on Earth. I can
do everything I love in nearly every season, be it base
jumping, with or without a wingsuit, freeriding with my
snowboard down steep lines or flying my ultralight plane
to glaciers. But I’ve had been lucky enough to go on some
incredible trips, too: an expedition on Canada’s remote
Baffin Island with a film crew, and the first ever wingsuit
flights in places like Iran and Antarctica.
Are the thrills worth the risks?
If you’re a good wingsuit pilot, it can be less risky than
driving on a motorway. The more experience you get, the
better you’re going to be — that’s my advice to anyone
looking to start. But don’t attempt challenging jumps
too soon — you’ll burn your wings. The most important
thing in this sport is to know your limits.
What are you most proud of?
Opening my wingsuit on the first base jump in
Antarctica in 2009. It took my team two years to prepare
and get the permits. Then, to get the best conditions, we
spent two months completely isolated at the bottom of
the Holtanna Peak on a glacier in Queen Maud Land, just
four of us. Finally, we got lucky with the weather.
What’s it like jumping off the Matterhorn wearing
just a wingsuit?
I’d dreamed about flying off this iconic summit since
2009, when I first rode the east face with my snowboard.
But at that time, wingsuit technology wasn’t advanced
enough for the complexities of the exit point. I never
thought my generation would be the one to see this
through. I flew new prototypes and collected data about
my jumps with a GPS tracker, helping develop the glide
of the suits, training hard to get perfect starts with
my wingsuit until, finally, I was ready to summit the
Matterhorn in 2014.
What’s next?
I’m trying to be the best mum I can to my son, Odin.
I want to help him find his own passion, but I’m also
sharing my love for the mountains with him. This year is
all about just enjoying flying and riding in my mountains
[around Verbier]. There’s still so much to do.
IMAGE: LIONEL FAVE
INTERVIEW: FARIDA ZEYNALOVA RE AD THE FULL
INTERVIEW
ONLINE AT
Géraldine Fasnacht is a freeride snowboarder, base jumper and NATIONAL
wingsuit pilot based in Switzerland. GEOGR APHIC.
geraldinefasnacht.com @geraldinefasnacht CO.UK/ TR AVEL
 Adventure to
Costa Rica
With a motto of Pura Vida, it’s easy to see why
Costa Rica tops the charts for adventure travel.

What you can

expect from us...
Small group sizes

6:1 guest-to-guide ratio

All-inclusive pricing

Thousands of reviews
from happy clients

Latin & South America Latin & South America

Latin & South America Costa Rica Tortuguero Costa Rica | Arenal Volcano
Costa Rica Guanacaste National Park National Park | Family Vacation

Duration Travel Style Activity Level Duration Travel Style Activity Level Duration Travel Style Activity Level
6 days Multi-Activity Level 2 9 days Wildlife Level 2 7 days Multi-Activity Level 2

Trip start: Liberia Trip end: Liberia Trip start: San José Trip end: San José Trip start: San José Trip end: San José

Visit activeadventures.com or austinadventures.com

or call 1-800-661-9073 for more information
ONLINE

W H AT ’ S O N L I N E

EXPERT TIPS FOR WINTER

CAMPERVANNING IN THE UK
Hit the road in a campervan this season to embrace the elements and beat the crowds
at some of the country’s most beautiful destinations. Words: Sarah Barrell

“There’s something very special about setting
out from a warm van in the depths of winter
to explore beautiful, empty places,” says
Martin Dorey. “When I’m suited and booted
and ready for a bike ride through the forest
or a walk along snowy ridges, I’m truly in love
with winter camping.” Having written seven
books on campervan travel, Martin has spent
the past few years travelling the backroads
of the UK and France in his camper for his
Take The Slow Road series. “Knowing that my
little cocoon on wheels will be waiting when
I’m cold and wet, muddy or snow blind is the
reassurance I need to set off,” he says.
One of the obvious attractions of off-
season camper exploration is that you can
hit the tourist hotspots, minus the hordes.
Out of season, destinations such as Cornwall,
the Cotswolds and the Lake District are
free from bumper-to-bumper traffic and
campsites don’t need to be booked months
in advance. And what’s more, all those
postcard-perfect beaches, lakes and rolling
hills are practically deserted.
“There are great campsites at Coniston
and in Keswick [in the Lake District] that are
open all year. For evening entertainment, I
recommend the climbing wall in Kendal.”
Meanwhile in Cornwall, the winter swells
attract a few hardcore surfers but none of the
crowds of recent summers. “Ayr Holiday Park
in St Ives is a fantastic campsite that’s open all
year. You can check the waves at Porthmeor
with just a peek out of the van window,”
says Martin. READ MORE ONLINE NOW AT
NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/TRAVEL

TOP
STORIE S
Here’s what you’ve
been enjoying on the CYCLING FOOD CELEBRATIONS
website this month What makes the Isle of Man 10 of the best hot cocktails New year celebrations from
one of Britain’s best spots? inspired by travel around the world
Combining challenging climbs From Polish mulled beer to festive How other cultures and countries
with unforgettable scenery alcoholic Mexican punch mark the beginning of a new year

42 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 ONLINE

E U R O P E ’ S B E S T D E S T I N AT I O N S B E YO N D T H E
T R AV EL S EC T I O N
F O R RO L L E R S K AT I N G
A rollerskating renaissance is well underway across Europe, fuelled by people
spending more time outdoors, taking up new sports and avoiding public transport
during the pandemic. Words: Sarah Richie

Pre-pandemic, one of London’s oldest skate
shops, Skate Attack, converted five pairs of
ice skates into rollerskates every day. Now,
that’s jumped to 50. Roller Nation, a rink in
north London, reports a similar explosion of
interest. In 2020, 10% of visitors owned their
own skates — that’s since rocketed to 70%.
The rink now opens on Mondays and Sunday
afternoons to keep up with the influx of new
participants.
Instructor Nele Van Bogaert, who
founded London’s Isle of Skating school,
explains, “Social media definitely sparked
the trend. Instagram and TikTok are full
of skating content.” The trend is booming
across Europe, too. Marja Zilcher, founder
of Rebel Rollers Helsinki, says, “We’ve seen
a huge increase in skaters — and it’s an
international trend according to the online
skating groups I’m in.” From skating along
a disused railway in Helsinki to pirouetting
around Berlin’s old airport, we take a tour
of the best European cities for rollerskating. | S P A C E |
READ THE TOP FIVE DESTINATIONS ONLINE
Eight must-see stargazing
events in 2022
The year ahead offers many
delights for sky-watchers,
including two blood moons, a pair
of partial solar eclipses and
multiple planetary meetings

| E N V I R O N M E N T |
IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY; PETROS GIANNAKOURIS, AP; ISRAEL PETERS;

Tackling the climate crisis: five

essential books to read
Post COP26, this mix of visionary
ROLLER NATION; CHRIS BRINLEE JR, VISIT GREENLAND

thinking and practical manifestos

make up a reading list that takes
you beyond the greenwash

| S C I E N C E |

How cutting-edge UK
engineering is revolutionising
underwater exploration
The National Oceanography
Centre’s fleet of autonomous
submarines is a step forward
on the road to net-zero

S E A RC H F O R
N ATG E OT R AV E LU K

FAC E B O O K
I N S TAG R A M
T WITTER

GREENLAND INTERVIEW EUROPE PINTEREST

Is this the world’s latest My life in food: Reggie Yates The seven best cities for flea
extreme sports mecca? The writer-director and Londoner market shopping
The island is a natural playground discusses his Ghanaian heritage Find everything from mid-
to get the adrenaline going and love of fish and chips century furniture to vintage lights

March 2022 43
 WEEKENDER

BRITTANY
The French region’s Emerald Coast is a treasure
trove of stylish resort towns, seafaring history and
rugged headland walks with spectacular views
Words: Carolyn Boyd

E
merald by name, emerald by nature.
It’s not hard to see how Brittany’s Côte
d’Émeraude got its name: one glance
at the startlingly green sea from Cancale to
Cap Fréhel and all becomes clear.
In fact, the coast dominates much of life
in this corner of northwest France, with its
hub, Saint-Malo, boasting a long history
of seafaring and exploration. It’s a place to
learn about corsairs and other pirates of the
18th century. Meanwhile, across the Rance
river, the towns of Dinard and Saint-Lunaire
hint at what came next: a period when the
area became popular for its elegant beach
resorts. Their superb golden-crescent
beaches are overlooked by handsome villas,
and even today these towns make for a chic
getaway, full of smart boutiques and top-
notch restaurants.
Peel away from the area’s genteel
charms, and its wilder side reveals itself.
Easily accessed by ferry from the UK, the
coastline is frayed with headlands that jut
into the Channel, offering heart-soaring
views from high above the sea. Travel
west — leaving the busier resorts behind
— and the Emerald Coast becomes wilder
still, its beaches quieter, its headlands
more windswept, home to little more than
lighthouses and colonies of seabirds.

44 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

DAY ONE COBBLES & CREPES
MORNING
Start in Saint-Malo, rolling off
the ferry in time for breakfast
in the walled old town, a few
minutes’ drive from the ferry port.
Park on the Quai Saint-Vincent,
before wandering through the
18th-century gateway to Place
Chateaubriand for coffee and
croissants. Explore the ramparts
of the old town; the views from
IMAGES: TEDDY VERNEUIL-LEZBROZ; ALAMY; GETTY
atop these historic walls take in
the surrounding islets that appear
at low tide then get swallowed by
the waves when the tide turns. At
the ramparts’ widest point, there
are statues of the town’s seafaring
heroes: characters who wrote
Saint-Malo’s history of exploration.
Among them is Jacques Cartier,
the first European to map Canada’s
Saint Lawrence River. After you’ve
worked up an appetite, head back
into the old town for lunch.
AFTERNOON
Order of the day here is the
galette bretonne, a buckwheat
crepe filled with a variety of local
produce. Café Breizh is the place
to sample it, washed down with a
glass of traditional Breton cider.
Head off afterwards to browse
the other gourmet food shops
in the Rue de l’Orme, including
La Maison du Beurre, with its
top-quality butters, cheeses
and charcuterie. There’s also La
Maison du Sarrasin, home to a
range of buckwheat products,
and Le Bar à Babas, which stocks
various kinds of rum baba in jars.
From there, wander over to the
incredible Épices Roellinger,
a spice emporium created by
former chef Olivier Roellinger.
Stock up here on a cornucopia of
peppers, spices and condiments
from around the world.
Historic quayside in Saint-Malo
FROM LEFT: View from Pointe du
Grouin, near Cancale; looking
across the beach at Saint-Malo
to the Fort National
EVENING
Take a sunset stroll out along
Saint-Malo’s seafront and past
the seafront belle époque villas.
When the tide is out, Plage de
la Hoguette beach is a favourite
spot to try ‘sand yachting’
across the shore. At high tide,
however, the sea laps up against
the sea wall concealing the
beach entirely. Settle in for the
evening at Hotel Les Charmettes,
set within two villas and with a
restaurant that looks out over
the beach. Grab a window seat
if you can — or, if it’s warm, sit
out on the front deck — and tuck
into dishes from a varied menu
that embraces Indian, Italian
and Thai cuisines. Consider
staying the night, too, and bed
down in rooms with bold feature
wallpapers and views of the sea or
courtyard garden.
TOP 5
Best beaches
PLAGE DE BON-SECOURS
Accessed via the ramparts
of Saint-Malo’s old town, this
popular beach has a tidal
swimming pool so you can
have a dip even when the tide
is way out. If it is, walk out
to the island of Grand-Bé to
admire its fort.
PLAGE DU PRIEURÉ
With its striped beach tents,
Dinard’s main beach can get
crowded. Its second beach is
a quieter as it’s a little further
vÀœ“̜ܘ°iÀi]ޜսw˜`>
tidal pool and a brilliant view
of Saint-Malo across the bay.
PLAGE DE LONGCHAMP
This broad, golden-sand
beach outside Saint-Lunaire
has medium-sized waves,
making it a great spot for
novice surfers. Book lessons
with Emeraude Surf School.
emeraudesurfschool.bzh
GRANDE PLAGE
The sleepy seaside town of
Saint-Cast-le-Guildo’s calling
card is this vast swathe of
sand, offering ample space to
spread out on and enjoy the
peaceful setting. Make sure
to bring your own picnic.
ANSE DU CROC
Seek out this quiet little
beach on the north coast of
Cap Fréhel. It’s a favourite for
paddling and pêche à pied
­¼wň˜}œ˜vœœÌ½®]Üޜս
see locals cutting mussels
and razor clams from the
rocks at low tide.
March 2022 45
MODELS - LEFT: TREELINE , RIGHT: NUMBER 2

MERINO MOISTURE THERMO ODOR

WOOL WICKING REGULATING RESISTANT

C D A LT D – T H E M O U N TA I N W O R K S

TELEPHONE: 01665 510660

EMAIL: SALES@ CDALIMITED.CO.UK
CDALIMITED.CO.UK /DARN-TOUGH

TOP 3
Aquatic
adventures
SAILING BY TALL SHIP
Follow in the footsteps
of Saint-Malo’s illustrious
mariners and head out on
those emerald waves on a
tall ship. There are a few to
choose from, but a trip on
Le Renard, a 30-metre-long
replica of the 1812 ship
owned by corsair Robert
Surcouf, is an thrilling
experience, especially
when its great white sails
are billowing in the wind.
etoile-marine.com
STANDUP
PADDLEBOARDING
Try your hand at standup
paddleboarding on the
gentle River Rance, which
DAY TWO SEAFOOD & SUNSETS
MORNING
Head east to Cancale, 30 minutes
along the coast, for a coffee on
its bustling seafront. The town
is famous for its oysters — the
farmers’ tractors trundle through
town before and after each
harvest. A great place to see the
operation is from the Pointe du
Hock viewpoint, perched above
the port. If the tide is out, you’ll be
able to see the frames on which
the oysters grow stretching for a
mile out to sea. Head down to the
Cancale Oyster Market to buy a
plate of fresh bivalves from one of
the stalls. Eat them with a squeeze
of lemon, then toss the shells on
the beach as you pick out the
silhouette of Mont Saint-Michel on
the horizon. To learn more about
this fascinating industry, book a
tour of the oyster beds with local
AFTERNOON
Cut across the Rance River estuary
to Dinard, which hosts the annual
Dinard Festival of British Film. It’s
not the town’s only connection to
the silver screen: Alfred Hitchcock
used stately Villa Les Roche Brunes
— perched above the beach here
— as the model for the creepy
Bates Motel in his 1960 film Psycho.
The villa is now a far-from-sinister
art gallery that can be reached by
a pleasant stroll taking in views of
elegant houses and the stunning
coastline. The town’s connections
with the Master of Suspense are
further celebrated on Plage de
l’Écluse, where there’s a statue of
Hitchcock communing with some
birds — a nod to another of his
iconic films, The Birds. Stay for a dip
in the sea, but if the tide’s far out,
head to the other end of the beach
WEEKENDER
EVENING
For an early-evening aperitif, try
Le Sunset Bar, a low-key affair set
in a cabin overlooking the tidal
pool. Go for a kir breton: crème de
cassis, calvados and cider. From
here, follow the path that runs
around the rocks of the Pointe du
Moulinet, with the sea thrashing
below you. It circles back into
the town centre, where you’ll
find Ombelle. Chef Alexandre
Frin is at the helm of this superb
restaurant and his dishes bring
together produce from the best
local farms and fishermen. Stay at
the historic Castelbrac, a five-star
hotel and spa that was originally
a natural history museum. There
are photos on the walls here of
scientist Jean-Baptiste Charcot,
who did research here before
leading a French Antarctic
yœÜÃ`œÜ˜vÀœ“ˆ˜>À`̜ outfit Ostreika. to the tidal swimming pool. expedition in the early 1900s.
̅i“i`ˆiÛ>̜ܘœvˆ˜>˜]
as well as in the many pretty
coves near Saint-Malo,
whose calm, shallow waters
are great for beginners.
supequilibre.com.

SEA KAYAKING
To get up close to the islets
and islands in Mont Saint-
Michel Bay, take a sea kayak
out on the water with Balade
Kayak 35. Stop at the many
beaches for a dip, and admire
the elegant belle époque
facades from the water.
baladekayak35.com
IMAGE: GETTY

RIGHT: Enjoying freshly

harvested oysters, a
speciality of Cancale

March 2022 47
WEEKENDER

ENTENTE CORDIALE

It’s not only Dinard’s

film festival that
demonstrates a love
of Britain. There’s a
red telephone box
near the town’s casino,
as well as an English-
speaking church, St
Bartholomew’s, and the
Route du Rock festival
each August, devoted
to British and US bands

Surfers ride the waves

at Plage de Longchamp,
outside Saint-Lunaire

THREE TO TRY COASTAL WALKS

Part of the GR34 walking trail, which runs along all 1,700 miles of Brittany’s
shoreline, the Emerald Coast takes in numerous scenic headlands. Try these
rambles for some exceptional views

CAP FRÉHEL TO FORT LA LATTE
Strike out along the wilder stretch of the
Emerald Coast to its westernmost headland,
Cap Fréhel. Start at the car park in the north
and walk over heather-speckled moorland to
the Phare de Cap Fréhel lighthouse, dating from
1950, and then on to the original, 17th-century
lighthouse, which has a more precipitous
setting, overlooking a raucous seabird colony.
From here, take the path south through the
bracken towards Fort la Latte, a medieval
castle that clings to the cliffs, complete with a
drawbridge, turreted tower and portcullis. The
circular walk takes around two hours, but allow
MORE INFO:
Café Breizh. breizhcafe.fr
the way to the headland brim with gorse and
La Maison du Sarrasin.
bluebells and, once you get over the headland,
lamaisondusarrasin.fr
the drama of the coastline unfurls. Enjoy a Épices Roellinger. epices-roellinger.fr
picnic while admiring the views west over Plage Hotel Les Charmettes.
de la Garde and Plage du Port Hue. As the tide hotel-les-charmettes.com
comes in, the golden beaches, strewn with Ostreika. ostreika.com
seaweed, are engulfed by green sea. The walk Dinard Festival of British Film.
takes around 45 minutes. `ˆ˜>À`viÃ̈Û>`Õw“°vÀ
Ombelle. restaurant-ombelle.fr
Castelbrac. castlebrac.fr
SAINT-BRIAC-SUR-MER TO PLAGE DU PORT HUE
Brittany Tourism. brittanytourism.com
Taking roughly an hour, this walk leads you
through the former fishing village of Saint- HOW TO DO IT
Briac-sur-Mer, with its white-shuttered stone Brittany Ferries sails overnight to
cottages and floral gardens. Eventually you’ll Saint-Malo from Portsmouth most
IMAGE: TEDDY VERNEUIL-LEZBROZ

extra time to explore the fort. lefortlalatte.com
SAINT-LUNAIRE TO POINTE DE LA
GARDE-GUÉRIN
The beach at Saint-Lunaire is popular with
families and surfers, but hikers will love the
sinuous route out to Pointe de la Garde-Guérin,
which shelters the pretty Plage de la Garde
beach to the west. In spring, the pastures along
reach the Plage du Port Hue, a tight crescent of
sand sheltered by rocks. From there, follow the
path out to the Pointe de la Haye and over to
the pretty Plage du Perron. If it’s low tide, you
can walk around the sand and rocks back to
Plage de la Salinette, backed by striking white
beach huts. From there, it’s on past the stately
Hôtel Le Nessay and on to the Plage du Bechet,
where the bay is filled with small boats.
evenings, with an average crossing time
of 11 hours. brittany-ferries.co.uk
Castelbrac, in Dinard, has doubles from
€271 (£230).
La Métairie du Vauhariot, in Cancale,
has doubles from €140 (£119), B&B.
Hotel le Manoir Saint Michel, on Cap
Fréhel, has doubles from €85 (£72).
castelbrac.com manoirstmichel.com
metairie-du-vauhariot.com

48 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 Nantes,
the ideal destination for your holiday,
all year long!

Explore the city freely for 1, 2, 3 – or even 7 days.

Discovering Nantes is easy and economical with the PASS Nantes
www.levoyageanantes.fr — T. +33 272 640 479
LE VOYAGE À NANTES IS A LOCAL PUBLICLY FUNDED COMPANY WHOSE MISSION IS TO PROMOTE THE CULTURAL
ORGANISATION PUT IN PLACE BY THE TOWN OF NANTES AND MORE GENERALLY THE GREATER NANTES AREA.
PICTURES © J.D. BILLAUD, M. ARGYROGLO, D. GALLARD, P. PIRON, J. JULLIEN, V. JONCHERAY, F. TOMPS / LVAN — C. CLOS / MUSÉE D’ARTS DE NANTES
 E AT

AZORES
A lush chain of volcanic islands in the Atlantic, the Portuguese archipelago is
shaped by the elements. So too is its cuisine, from rich, matured cheese to
wines made from grapes grown on ancient lava flows. Words: Audrey Gillan

IMAGES: MAURÍCIO ABREU; KYZER; AUDREY GILLAN; JORGE BLAYER GÓIS

T
he taste buds on the side of my
tongue are tingling after eating São
Jorge cheese. I wince; an apron- clad
Gilberto Vieira laughs at my visceral reaction
to the slice he cut for me in his grocery store.
The room is packed with antique finds,
chosen by Gilberto to give a flavour of what
life was like in the Azores in the years after
the Portuguese first discovered the islands
in 1427. A meal at Quinta do Martelo — an
ethnographical centre, restaurant and hotel,
created over 32 years by Gilberto — begins
here at the counter, with petiscos (small
plates), which would’ve been eaten by the
settlers who crossed the 1,000 or so miles
of Atlantic ocean, travelling west from
mainland Portugal. There’s boiled corn with
salt, tremoços (lupin beans), pickled sea
fennel, fiery chilli paste, vinegary fava beans
and wheat and corn bread, plus glasses of red
wine mixed with orange soda.
Upstairs, in a time warp of a dining room,
we tuck into alcatra, a spiced beef stew
slow-cooked in a clay pot. It’s the totemic
dish of Terceira Island, one of nine volcanic
islands that make up the Azores archipelago,
and reflects the evolution of ingredients
and tastes here, as well as the history of
the Portuguese who moved here from the
country’s mountainous north east.
The early settlers on this archipelago
— with its often-unforgiving landscape

50 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 Harvesting grapes at Vinhas dos Biscoitos
FROM LEFT: The city of Angra do Heroísmo,
Terceira; grilled lapas (limpets) with garlic, a
speciality of the Azores; Sabores Sopranos, a
restaurant serving Azorean cuisine on São Jorge

March 2022 51

— survived on bland, simple food. But when
Portugal embarked on the Age of Discovery
in the 15th century, they encountered new
spices and foods, and docked their caravels
(small sailing ships) at Azorean ports to
replenish. Dishes here changed dramatically.
Suddenly, the local larder included sweet
potatoes, tomatoes, cinnamon, nutmeg,
allspice and pepper. Winemaking, too, began
to flourish.
“When those early people arrived here,
it was like landing on the Moon,” says
Francisco Maduro-Dias, the grand master
of the Confraria do Vinho Verdelho dos
Biscoitos (a ‘brotherhood’ formed to promote
the local wine). “They came from the Iberian
Peninsula and were used to working with
soil. But here it was mostly rocks with
little topsoil. They brought with them a
Mediterranean wine culture and they had to
adapt when they arrived, planting their vines
in cracks in rocks and lava.”
Francisco, along with his some of his fellow
brothers, is guiding me through the vineyards
of Terceira, clustered near the sea beside the
town of Biscoitos. It’s here we meet winemaker
José Machado Sousa at his little adega (winery)
where, on the edge of a lava flow overlooking
the Atlantic, he nurtures his red wine, Pedro
do Lobo.
IMAGE: MARTIN KAUFMANN
“My wine has two winemakers: me and the
sea,” he says. This year, a series of storms and
high winds meant he had very little to bottle.
Other years — when the breeze is gentle,
meaning the vines are brushed with sea salt,
not battered with it — he produces wine that’s
almost elemental in its flavour profile.
It’s not just the sea breeze that shapes
Azorean produce; across the water, on São
Jorge — the verdant isle with its eponymous
cheese — it seems music plays a role too.
Third-generation cheesemaker Manuel
Silveira tells me he plays music by Azorean
composer Francisco de Lacerda to his cows
while milking them, insisting this improves
the flavour of his Canada, a semi-hard variety
aged for 60 days. “I treat them gently and
don’t use cattle dogs,” he says. “If the cows
are stressed, the milk isn’t as good.”
Dairy produce is a key feature on every
island in the Azores (Azorean butter — such
as sweet, creamy Rainha do Pico — is the
best I’ve ever tasted). Cheese, too, has been a
speciality of the islands for centuries, with
each island producing its own unique type.
“I’ve been making cheese since I was a small
boy,” says Manuel. “I grew up with this.”
While much of the Azores’ produce is
deeply rooted in the land, it’s hard not to
overstate the importance of the sea. Over
lunch at Sabores Sopranos restaurant, co-
owner Carlos Ferreira exalts the islands’
tuna, as well as its other fish and seafood,
including blackbelly rosefish, snapper,
forkbeard, cavaca dos Açores (a lobster
species) and locally revered limpets, known
as lapas. “We have two types of limpet,”
says Carlos. “Lapa brava is more orange,
lapa mansa is more black. The secret when
cooking is to do it fast, and don’t let them
get too hard. Then we dress them with butter
and garlic. Of course, my wife’s cooking [she’s
the chef] makes all this excellent produce
really wonderful.”
EAT
6ˆ˜iÃ̅ÀˆÛiœ˜̅iϜ«iÃ
of Pico Island, thanks to a
moist, mild climate
A TASTE OF THE
Azores
TASCO ‘O PETISCA’, PICO ISLAND
Go for the seafood here, whether it’s
cracas (barnacles) or tuna belly fried in
olive oil and garlic. There’s also caldo
de peixe­wÅÜի®>˜`arroz de lapas
­ˆ“«iÌÀˆVi®°œÀ`iÃÃiÀÌ]ÌÀÞ̅ičâœÀi>˜
«ˆ˜i>««i܈̅>ŜÌœv>ˆ`œˆµÕiÕÀ
܈˜iœÛiÀ̅i̜«°/…Àii‡VœÕÀÃiÕ˜V…
without wine, from €20 (£17). Avenida
Padre Nunes da Rosa 9950, Madalena
CANETA, TERCEIRA
č}i`LiivV>À«>VVˆœ]Lœ˜i“>ÀÀœÜ܈̅
toast and grilled lapas are among the
starters at Caneta, but it’s the locally
reared Aberdeen Angus beef mains that
are the highlight. They include alcatra,
tongue stew, liver with onion sauce, and
LiivVœœŽi`ˆ˜œV>}…ii°/…Àii‡VœÕÀÃi
lunch without wine, from €19 (£16).
restaurantecaneta.com
PICO RESTAURANT, AZORES WINE
COMPANY, PICO ISLAND
Chefs José Diogo Costa and Angelina
Pedra serve tasting menus with wine
«>ˆÀˆ˜}Ș>ÀiÃÌ>ÕÀ>˜Ì܈̅ۈiÜÃœÛiÀ
the Pico vineyards. These might feature
sliced lapas]y>“i`܈̅>ˆÌ̏iLÕÌÌiÀ]
with sea cabbage and sea beans; or
Ø>««iÀÃ>ň“ˆ]܈̅VÀˆÃ«ÞwÅΈ˜
>˜`VœÀˆ>˜`iÀ°/…iÈ݇VœÕÀÃi,œVŽ>˜`
Raw menu with wine by the glass, costs
around €96 (£80). antoniomacanita.com
March 2022 53
EAT
FROM LEFT: Plate of bolos Dona Amélia
at Pastelaria O Forno; Azores Wine
Company, home to a striking modern
restaurant, winery and tasting room
Five food finds
FISH
Azorean seafood is fabulous when
eaten fresh. Species here include
tuna, blue jack mackerel, chub
mackerel, forkbeard
and swordfish
WINE
Azorean wine is fast being
recognised for its quality. The
vines here thrive in seemingly
inhospitable terrain: cracks in
rocks and hardened lava, buffeted
by winds and storms
BOLO DONA AMÉLIA
Made from sugar, malkana
(similar to molasses), eggs,
cornflour, cinnamon and butter,
these dense, spiced cakes are
a speciality from Pastelaria
O Forno, on Terceira Island
SHELLFISH
Look out for cracas,
which contain sweet morsels
of meat, and lapas, most often
served grilled
DAIRY
The wet Azorean climate
means nutrient-rich grass, which
results in wonderfully creamy
cheese, butter, ghee, yoghurt
and ice cream
54 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
After lunch, Carlos drives me past
waterfalls, hydrangeas and ocean views to
Café da Fajã dos Vimes, a small coffee farm
and cafe. The business gets its name from
a geological hallmark of the Azores, fajãs:
slopes formed from ancient lava flows that
once ran down to the sea. Exceptionally
fertile, they were used by settlers to grow
yams, maize and vegetables. Three miles to
the north is volcanic lagoon Lagoa Fajã da
Caldeira de Santo Cristo, the only place in the
archipelago where palourde clams — a local
delicacy — can be found.
When we arrive at Café da Fajã dos Vimes,
Dinah Nunes shows me around her family’s
little coffee plantation in the back garden
of their house. Coffee originally came to the
island from Brazil in the late 18th century
and thrived in the islands’ microclimate.
“Our coffee has a very fruity taste,” says
Dinah. “It’s arabica, and it’s already very
aromatic.” She picks up a rock and begins
to smash the reddish coffee beans that have
been laid out to dry in the sun. “Because
temperatures are mild here, the taste is less
bitter. It’s soft, and there are fruity and floral
notes. It’s imperfect perfect coffee.”
Leaving São Jorge behind, I cross the sea
to Pico Island, where I’m hoping for a clear
view of its eponymous, volcanic mountain
(‘pico’ means ‘peak’). The Atlantic weather
has prevailed, however, and its summit is
ringed with mist. It’s bad news for me, but
for the island’s winemakers, an abundance of
cloud is a good thing.
“The mountain plays an important role
because it attracts the clouds, and it rains
more,” says Felipe Rocha, manager and
co-founder of the Azores Wine Company.
Felipe began to re-establish Pico’s vineyards
in 2014, long after they’d been decimated by
disease in the 19th century. Now he produces
some of the best wine in Portugal, including
Vinha dos Utras, at a cool €240 (£200) a
bottle. Housed in a stunning building, the
new winery, tasting room, restaurant and six
chic studio apartments — moments from
the sea, overlooking the vines — is part of
a network of vineyards on the island that’s
been protected as a UNESCO World Heritage
Site since 2004.
“The ancient people say you should plant
vines where you can hear the crabs singing,”
says Felipe, as he opens a bottle of minerally
Terrantez do Pico. “And this is where we have
our adega. In Pico, an adega is much more
than just a winery — it’s where people produce
IMAGES: FRANCISCO NOGUEIRA; AUDREY GILLIAN
wine by the sea, a place to get together. You
don’t invite friends to your house, you invite
them to the adega. And there’s always a place
for the old drunks to sleep.”
After making my through the delicious
tasting menu — with a wine to match every
course — I, too, bed down, at Felipe’s adega. In
the morning, I’m greeted by the sweet smell of
grapes mingling with the dry, stony scent of
ancient lava warming in the sun. I walk down
to the sea, watching it spray dramatically
above the black rock, and, just for a minute, I
imagine the crabs singing.
The freedom to build
anywhere you want.

Czec
From the Channel Islands to the Outer Hebrides, h Re
publ
we deliver the house kit you need ic

to make your dream come true.

USA
A-frame kit homes
avrame.com
 SLEEP

COPENHAGEN
When it comes to hotels, the design-focused Danish capital has it
all, from glamorous five-stars to futuristic pod hotels and eco-conscious
urban hangouts in the heart of the action. Words: Sarah Marshall

ALL RATES QUOTED ARE FOR STANDARD DOUBLES, ROOM ONLY,

UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED. IMAGES: LINE KLEIN; AWL IMAGES

It could be a trick of the soft Scandi light, but everything in Copenhagen seems
blessed with good looks. Immaculate royal palaces have dodged the ravages of
time, while modern pieces of architecture are daring to the extreme. The
accommodation is no exception either, with many of the city’s best hotels much
more than just somewhere to sleep. Bringing the past bang up to date, recent
openings include a converted Carlsberg malt house and a century-old post
office. Newer builds are equally head-turning — if only because of the
remarkably affordable rates. Defying Copenhagen’s pricey reputation, a new raft
of fun, quirky hostels has popped up in the past few years, too, from stackable
cabins to indoor tents. There’s also been a shift towards more sustainable stays,
with efficient, water-saving shower systems, vegan menus and eco materials all
part of the city’s drive to become carbon-neutral by 2025.

56 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Best for nostalgics
NIMB
Bright, brash and irresistibly different, one
of the city’s most iconic properties has kept
visitors spellbound for more than a century.
A Moorish-style palace illuminated by
thousands of bulbs, Nimb blends perfectly
into the fantasy fairground of Tivoli Gardens.
Originally opened as a restaurant in 1909,
it’s always been a family business and the
focus on fine food remains strong. Thirty-
eight suites are divided between the original
building and a modern wing; older rooms
have fireplaces, bathtubs and quirky artefacts,
while later additions benefit from a vast
terrace. Indulge in afternoon teas served
beneath glittering chandeliers, or spring
forward several decades in the high-tech
wellness centre, kitted out with a wave-
simulator in the pool and a hypoxic
chamber for cross-fit training sessions.
ROOMS: DKK 2,902 (£332). nimb.dk

March 2022 57
SLEEP

Best for style-seekers

HOTEL SANDERS
Embrace the Danish obsession of hygge at this
boutique hotel, where flames flicker in open
fireplaces and shelves are stocked with good
books. Owned by a former ballet dancer, the
venue attracts a local crowd of creatives, who
you’ll find chatting away in the low-lit bar. The
54 rooms range from spacious apartments to
compact singles inspired by the train cabins
of golden-era travel. Book the property’s
private wooden boat for sightseeing tours
along Nyhavn canal, with its famous row of
coloured houses. Alternatively, borrow a bike
to explore the neighbourhood, home to the
Royal Theatre and the Royal Danish Opera.
ROOMS: DKK 2,107 (£241). hotelsanders.com

Best for theatregoers

SCANDIC FALKONER
Copenhagen’s answer to the West End,
fashionable Frederiksberg has a colourful,
theatrical past. Since 1958, the Falkoner
Center has hosted a roll call of stage greats;
look out for posters of Ella Fitzgerald and
Judy Garland hanging from the walls of
this 334-room hotel attached to the original
venue. Inspired by retro music halls, the
bar-lounge is decorated with vanity lamps
and lightbox readographs. Rooms are modern
and comfortable, and the top floors command
exceptional views. Pretty Frederiksberg
Gardens is only a 10-minute walk away.
ROOMS: DKK 787 (£90). scandichotels.com

58 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 SLEEP

Best for fashionistas

VILLA COPENHAGEN
A much-loved landmark given a new lease
of life, the Danish capital’s former Central
Post and Telegraph Head Office is one of the
glitziest new additions to a sparkling luxury
hotel scene. Built in 1912, a few footsteps
from Central Station, nostalgia radiates from
Villa Copenhagen’s wooden staircases and
grand doorways, and the 390 rooms cut an
equally fine figure. Dress sharp for dinner at
contemporary brasserie Kontrast and pack
a few designer two-pieces to pose beside the
rooftop pool. Breakfast features pastries and
breads baked on site by a former Noma chef.
ROOMS: DKK 1,993 (£228). villacopenhagen.com
IMAGES: JESPER RAIS RAISFOTO WWW.RAISFOTO.DK; STINE CHRISTIANSEN

March 2022 59
 SLEEP

Best for romantics

HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE
Hosting travellers for more than 200 years, this
five-star icon is the city’s finest address, with
crystal chandeliers and marble-floored halls. It’s
primed for a period drama, although modern
touches — such as a glamorous Michelin-star
restaurant, superb spa and indoor pool — mean
the 92-room property never feels old fashioned.
Book a balcony suite overlooking cobbled
Kongens Nytorv square and pack your finest
wardrobe to sip cocktails at the high-end bar,
Balthazar, which has 160 varieties of Champagne.
ROOMS: DKK 4,974 (£569). dangleterre.com

äʼnőùĩŅÙääŅÙŖƄʼn Best for eco-warriors Best for bargain hunters

HOTEL OTTILIA
Carlsberg has been quenching Danish thirsts since
1847, and southwest of the centre, its original red-brick
brewery is undergoing a transformation to become a
new neighbourhood of shops and restaurants. Spread
>VÀœÃÃÌܜˆ˜`ÕÃÌÀˆ>LՈ`ˆ˜}Ã]̅ˆÃˆÃ̅iwÀÃÌ…œÌi
to open on site, themed around its beer-brewing
bloodline. Inside, wooden wall panels have been
reconstructed as benches and old malt hoppers
decorate the bar. Check-ins are done in the bar while
a mixologist prepares welcome cocktails. Stick around
between 5pm and 6pm, when free wine is served.
ROOMS: DKK 787 (£90). brochner-hotels.com
BRYGGEN GULDSMEDEN
The latest opening from the Danish eco chain is one of
Copenhagen’s most sustainable hotels. Beds are laid
with linen made from non-toxic materials and showers
use a system based on NASA technology to reduce
water consumption by 50 to 90%. But shrinking waste
doesn’t mean compromising on comfort. Styled with
bamboo and draped in plush fabrics, rooms have
a dreamy, boho feel, while breakfast is an organic
extravaganza, with highlights including blueberry salad
and homemade yoghurt. The Sole Factory bar and
restaurant draws in a local hipster crowd.
ROOMS: DKK 1,495 (£171), B&B. guldsmedenhotels.com
STEEL HOUSE
This slick, streamlined hostel strikes a healthy balance
between style and substance. Once home to the
Danish Union of Metalworkers, the building clings to
its industrial past: bare concrete walls, steel panels
and exposed pipework dominate the design. Despite
the steely aesthetic, the place is far from austere and
service is anything but mechanical. Dorms (including
>ܜ“i˜‡œ˜Þœ«Ìˆœ˜®>ÀiwÌÌi`܈̅ë>Vi‡>}i«œ`Ã]
while a selection of small doubles and singles suit
those seeking privacy. The hostel’s communal spaces
include a games room, cinema and buzzy bar.
ROOMS: DKK 122 (£14). steelhousecopenhagen.com

March 2022 61
SLEEP

Best for backpackers

CITYHUB COPENHAGEN
Made of a series of stacked metal boxes,
there’s something a little unnerving about
this space- and money-saving hotel aimed at
Generation Y. But thanks to clever lighting,
the hotel’s functional two-person hubs are
inviting, and there’s also an option to book
larger rooms for four. Shared bathrooms are
gleaming and immaculately clean, and the
art-filled, self-service bar is equipped with
workstations and cosy seating. A free app
connects guests to local hosts, who can share
tips on places to visit in cool Vesterbro. That
said, it shouldn’t be too hard to find your
own haunts in this former red-light district
electrified by a thriving nightlife scene.
ROOMS: DKK 402 (£46). cityhub.com

Best for urban

adventurers
URBAN CAMPER HOSTEL
Enjoy the feeling of sleeping in a tent without
the risk of bad weather at this quirky hostel
pitched up in vibrant Nørrebro. Rows of
wooden frames have been draped with
canvas, each with bunk beds and lockers
inside. Choose between four-person dorms,
IMAGES: WILLEMSTEIN FOTOGRAFIE

private twins or the option of ‘normal’ rooms

with concrete walls. Digital nomads can also
book in for longer stays. Although there’s no
campfire, a games room with shuffleboard
provides a lively communal space. Don’t
miss out on the neighbourhood buzz, either:
discover late-night kebab shops, arty cafes
and cool bars tucked away down side streets.
ROOMS: DKK 149 (£17), B&B. urbancamper.dk

62 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Plan an unforgettable
stopover in Qatar
Turn one holiday into two with incredible stopover packages to Qatar, the perfect destination for a taste
of culture, adventure, shopping and so much more. Make the most of your journey with the ‘World’s Best
Value Stopover’ by Discover Qatar starting from:

USD 14*
Per person per night, including hotel stay and more.

Book your stopover today on qatarairways.com

Explore your next vacation with Qatar Airways Holidays

and save up to 30% on flights and hotels by visiting
www.qatarairways.com/en-gb/holidays.html

*Terms and conditions apply.

64 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 Pura
V IDA

N ow h e r e e l s e in t h e wo r l d h a s qu i t e t h e s a m e
r e p u t a t io n f o r c o n s e r va t i o n a s C o s t a R ic a . W i t h
i t s d i z z y in g a r r ay o f n a t i o n a l p a r k s a n d d e d i c a t i o n
t o r e n e wa b l e e n e r g y, t r ave l t o t hi s n a t i o n o f j u s t
f i ve m i l l i o n p e o p l e h a s b e c o m e s y n o n o m o u s w i t h
sustainable lodgings, communit y- enhancing tours
a n d ex t r ava g a n t b i o di ve s i t y. E c o s y s t e m s r a n g i n g
f r o m c l o u d f o r e s t t o C ar ib b e a n c o a s t m e a n t h e r e ’s
m u c h h e r e t o p r o t e c t — a n d m u c h t o ex p e r i e n c e .
Yo u ’l l h e a r l o c a l s t a l k a b o u t p u r a v i d a — a s h o r t
ye t n u a n c e d p h r a s e m e a n i n g ‘ p u r e l i f e ’ t h a t
s p e a k s o f h u m a n s ’ t r u e p ur p o s e . V i s i t in g C o s t a
R ic a , yo u ’l l s t a r t t o u n d e r s t a n d i t s m e a n i n g

WORDS JAMIE LAFFERTY

IMAGE: AWL IMAGES

March 2022 65
 IMAGE: JAMIE LAFFERTY

A misty morning at the

Selva Bananito Ecolodge
PREVIOUS PAGES: Scarlet
“>V>܈˜yˆ}…Ì

66 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

L I M Ó N P R OV I N C E
ON T H E
ecotour ism
F RON T I E R
At the edge of La Amistad International Park, which spills over Costa Rica’s southern border into Panama, one
man has transformed a logging operation into one of the nation’s most authentic ecotourism getaways
“It’s been so long since we had any rain,” complains Jurgen
Stein, standing in what I’m quite certain is precipitation. I
turn my palm skywards and let droplets hit my hand.
“Oh, this?” the owner of Selva Bananito Ecolodge
— on the Caribbean coast in southern Costa Rica — asks,
with what sounds like faint derision. “This isn’t real rain.
When it rains here, you can’t hear each other talk.”
Jurgen should know. Born in Colombia to German
parents, he’s lived in Costa Rica for decades. Although
he doesn’t use the phrase himself, it’s also clear he’s
something of an eco warrior, entrenched on the front line
of a battle for the future of the region.
The country is often marketed as a green utopia, perhaps
the one nation in Latin America — if not the entire world
— that’s taking serious action on the climate crisis. As
Jurgen leads me around his property in the foothills of the
Talamanca Mountains, he explains that things aren’t as
simple as that. “We often travel to events like COP26 and
say that we’re 50% forested,” he says. “But not all of that is
protected as national parks or conservancies. Half of it is
in private hands, so the picture isn’t so clear.”
For its part, Selva Bananito’s approach is regenerative
tourism, and rustic in the extreme. There’s no
meaningful power in the cabins and certainly no air-
conditioning. For the duration of my three-day stay, the
fragile internet connection doesn’t work. Untethered
from the rest of the world and growing attuned to the
sounds and smells of the jungle, I start to dread the
moment reception kicks back in.
The lodge offers plenty of activities, from horse rides
around the property to lengthy jungle treks and simply
listening to the rhythms of the forest. In the evenings,
Jurgen offers lectures on environmentalism. “Recycling
is good, but it’s like when I hear about the environmental
ministry confiscating illegally cut wood,” he says one
evening. “Wouldn’t it be better if the trees were never
removed from the forest in the first place?”
The lodge’s water is filtered with activated carbon and,
by banning any industry on its local rivers, the lodge is, in
COSTA RICA
turn, helping to keep the water supply to the city of Limón
clean. Plastic bottles have been banned for decades
— welcome drinks are served in coconuts, the fresh
machete strikes still visible near the top. With these
measures and more, Jurgen believes his lodge’s carbon
output is less per year than that of the average US citizen.
There’s an important caveat to this remarkable statistic:
Jurgen also personally flies guests over the region
in a petrol-fuelled gyrocopter. While this offering is
technically distinct from Selva Bananito and registered
as a separate company, it would certainly skew the figures
if counted as one of the lodge’s vehicles. Nonetheless, the
garrulous owner insists it’s for the greater good.
“I took the former environment minister up and we
spotted some illegal logging,” Jurgen tells me in the
lodge’s rudimentary bar. “When we got back down,
arrests were being made within hours.”
The following morning, I join him for a flight: half an
hour in the sky that is, by turns, thrilling and educational.
Not that I could miss them, but Jurgen points out vast
banana plantations: regimented squares of monoculture
farming sitting next to the eclectic wilderness.
Jurgen’s land, and that stretching south to La Amistad,
is chaotic by comparison, but it could easily have been very
different. “My father had a logging concession covering
1,730 acres,” he says. “In 1985, my sisters and I asked him to
think about what he was doing, to stop logging. To protect
this land.”
Ever since, Jurgen has worked at the lodge. He claims
that during that time, its dedication to ecotourism has
come at a cost. He’s had threats from those who want to
exploit his land. Yet, in his own way, Jurgen takes this
as a sort of endorsement. “The people doing the logging
and poaching don’t like what we’re doing here, so I think
we’re on the right track.”
HOW TO DO IT: Adventure Life offers its seven-night Turtles &
Rainforest itinerary, with three nights at Selva Bananito Lodge, from
f£]™™È­Ë£]{Ç{®«iÀ«iÀܘ]iÝVÕ`ˆ˜}yˆ}…Ìðadventure-life.com
March 2022 67
COSTA RICA
OSA PENINSUL A
T H E really
wild SHOW
The jewel in the crown of Costa Rica’s lesser-explored south is Corcovado National Park, a wilderness of
rainforest and rare species. From capuchins to northern caracaras, peccaries to poison arrow frogs, there’s
plenty to spot when walking on the country’s wild side
My guide hears something. For a heartbeat, he panics.
In that electric moment, Jeffrey’s all mammal, engaging
none of his rational brain. But then he realises there’s
nothing to worry about; he hasn’t been attacked by the
pack of coatis surrounding us — his anorak has just
fallen from his backpack.
Animal attacks are exceptionally rare in Costa Rica and
never likely to happen with coatis — racoon-like animals
that shamble through the forest and sometimes out onto
the wild beaches of the Corcovado National Park. There
are creatures to cause much more concern in these forests.
Of all Costa Rica’s wild places, the national park and
the wider Osa Peninsula are perhaps the most untamed.
Before arriving, each person I spoke to about them used
words like ‘magical’ and ‘paradise’ when describing
this sliver of largely inaccessible land on the country’s
southwest coast.
I’m staying at Lapa Rios Lodge, one of Costa Rica’s
pioneering eco-lodges, just outside of the park boundary.
It’s a hotel with a luxury price tag, but one that animals
frequently visit for free. At various times, while walking
from the restaurant to my room, I have encounters
with pig-like peccaries, yellow-throated toucans, and
Golfoducean poison-arrow frogs. There are many birds
of prey, too; this is a place where the eagles can leave any
time they like, but never check in.
Walking in the park proper — a bumpy, hour-long ride
from the lodge — the number and variety of animals has
thrillingly increased. When we reach the rangers’ station,
a troop of white-faced capuchins is going through the
meticulous business of selecting ripe coconuts from a
tree, then opening them on sharp rocks. A short time
later, we watch spider monkeys with fur the colour of
ground cinnamon selecting seeds as though shopping
at a delicatessen. The orkish calls of howler monkeys
frequently swirl around the jungle.
“We’ve got squirrel monkeys here, too,” says Jeffrey,
much calmer now. “But they’re the smallest of the four
species we have in Costa Rica and difficult to spot.”
68 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
In a bid to get a clearer view of the trees, we break out
onto Corcovado’s vast, grey-sand beach, which stretches
into a mid-morning mist as far as the eye can see. From
here, we spot turkey vultures, black hawks and northern
caracaras. The primates remain unseen, but compensation
comes in the boisterous form of red macaws, which we
often glimpse traversing the sky in pairs, their ghastly calls
perhaps some kind of curse for being blessed with such
extraordinarily beautiful plumage.
“It’s a shame they don’t sound as pretty as they look,” I
say to Jeffrey. “In nature, I think you have to choose one
or the other,” he replies, sounding a little more profound
than he perhaps intended.
The beach rolls on, and before long we find its flawless
sand interrupted by the tracks of what’s obviously a
huge animal. “Baird’s tapir,” says my guide, as though
inspecting a crime scene.
The tapir is at the centre of an evolutionary Venn
diagram — where the circles represent an elephant, a cow
and horse — drawn by a child who’s no great artist. They
may look fundamentally ridiculous, but they can weigh as
much as 880lbs and are occasionally violent when angry or
disturbed during the day, when they’re often asleep.
“Let’s follow it,” says Jeffrey.
The tapir’s tracks carry on for hundreds of yards,
looping around the beach before finally disappearing
back into the jungle. We continue tracking, looking for
signs of broken twigs and footprints in the mud. The
air seems to hold its breath for us. We move through
IMAGES: JAMIE LAFFERTY; LAPA RIOS
the undergrowth and then hear a rustling. We turn, our
senses as heightened now as they were with the coatis.
And there, confused and in no mood to talk to us, is a
northern tamandua. This tree-climbing anteater takes
one look at us and lollops off into the green of Corcovado,
unwilling to give any clues on the whereabouts of the tapir.
HOW TO DO IT: Journey Latin America has nine nights in Costa Rica
܈̅vœÕÀ>Ì>«>,ˆœÃœ`}ivÀœ“Ë{]ÓÓÓ«iÀ«iÀܘ°˜VÕ`iÃyˆ}…ÌÃ]
transfers, excursions and accommodation. journeylatinamerica.co.uk
 COSTA RICA

Four more
NATIONA L
PA R KS

̩ SAN LUCAS ISLAND

A notorious prison until
1991, San Lucas Island was
declared Costa Rica’s 30th
national park in 2020. Learn
about the jail and the stories
of some of its most infamous
inmates, and peer inside their
˜œÜL>̇wi`vœÀ“iÀViÃ°
Entry $12 (£9).

̪ TORTUGUERO
The Caribbean coast’s
most spectacular park lies
near the Nicaraguan border.
There’s no shortage of turtles
nesting on the beaches — and
an equally plentiful number of
predators looking to snatch
their eggs. Follow the estuary
ˆ˜>˜`̜w˜`VÀœVœ`ˆiÃ>˜`
caimans, plus almost half
of Costa Rica’s known bird
species. Entry $15 (£11.35).

̫ LOS QUETZ ALES

Set in Costa Rica’s misty
highlands, this park gets
its name from the outrageously
gorgeous — and rare — quetzal
birds that call it home. Entry
$10 (£7.50).

̬ MANUEL ANTONIO
Located just outside
the town of Quepos, this
is the smallest Costa Rican
national park but is remarkably
A red-tailed squirrel biodiverse. Within its borders
takes a seat in Corcovado ۈÈ̜ÀÃV>˜w˜`Ài`‡iÞi`ÌÀii
National Park frogs, two types of sloth, all four
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: of Costa Rica’s monkey species
Deluxe Bungalow, Lapa
and much more besides. Plus,
Rios Lodge; a white-
ܓiœv̅i*>VˆwVVœ>Ã̽ÃLiÃÌ
faced capuchin appears
astonished by what it’s
hotels are walking distance
found inside a coconut; a away. Entry $16 (£12).
sloth in Manuel Antonio
National Park

March 2022 69
 COSTA RICA

A turkey vulture swoops

in front of Arenal Volcano
BELOW: A rufous-tailed
hummingbird takes a rare break
on a branch in the Arenal region

TO P F I V E

A R E N A L adventures
Located three hours’ drive north west of the capital, San José, the
town of La Fortuna offers a springboard to explore the landscape
around the inactive Arenal Volcano. The smoke may have stopped a
decade ago, but the volcanic energy still inspires adventure here

HIKING IN ARENAL W H I T E WAT E R

̩ N AT I O N A L PA R K
There are dozens of trails in
the region but hiking Arenal
National Park on the lake side of
the volcano offers the chance to
lose oneself in nature. There are
newly improved steps leading to
viewing platforms of the volcano
— you’re in the right place when
you find other people taking
photos of the peak and resting on
the black lava from the massive
and deadly 1968 eruption, the
volcano’s first in over 400 years.
Out on the trail there are scores
IMAGES: JAMIE LAFFERTY
̪ R AFTING
As well as its volcanic
centrepiece, the remarkable
topography of the Arenal region
offers optimal conditions for
whitewater rafting. A number
of tours are bookable in La
Fortuna, the most adventurous
of which takes you to nine-mile
sections of the Balsa River, where
you’ll battle Class IV rapids. It’s
theoretically possible to spot
sloths from the water, but good
luck having the Zen to pick out
those docile tree-dwellers while

of bird species to spot. The path
is uneven in places, but with
trekking up the volcano an
impossibility, this makes for a
fine alternative. Guided tour and
hot-spring visit with Anywhere
from $131 (£97). anywhere.com
the river thunders around you. If
this sounds a little intimidating,
the Sarapiquí River is a much
gentler option often used to train
first-time rafters, or to give kids
an introductory experience. Tours
from $68 (£50). arenalrafting.com

March 2022 71
Imagine a place where you can reconnect with the essentials,
where you wake up with the sounds of the jungle and the ocean.

Imagine an exceptional place that combines quality and comfort.

A place where you can deepen the connection between your body and spirit,
ǝŊĪƣĪǣżǀܹŧŧǿŲģÿģĪĪƠƫƸÿƸĪżłƣĪŧÿǢÿƸŏżŲÿŲģǝĪŧŧ‫ܫ‬ěĪŏŲŃ܏

Imagine a culinary journey with the highest quality ingredients direct from the land.
Imagine moments with love, smiles and sunsets that you'll never forget.

Imagine the most beautiful experience of your life.

Imagine Bohemia.

www.bohemiacr.com | @bohemia.experience | +506 8624 9732 | reservations@bohemialodge.com

 COSTA RICA

L A FORTUNA
̫ WAT E R FA L L
The steep hike down to the base
of La Fortuna Waterfall will
inspire a sense of foreboding
in some travellers. There are
about 500 newly refurbished
steps, each reinforcing the grim
knowledge that they will be
much harder on the way back up.
The good news is that the sweaty
trip offers a 230ft waterfall — one
of the most beautiful in the
country — as a reward. It’s so
picture-perfect that locals are
often spotted in or around the
plunge pool posing for wedding
photos. Expect to see toucans
and howler monkeys during the
hike, too. Entry $18 (£13).
cataratalafortuna.com

WAT E R S P O R T S
̬ ON LAKE ARENAL
Costa Rica’s largest lake is also
a vast reservoir, but for most
visitors the focus will be on
watersports. Paddleboarding
is popular in the calmer waters
close to the dammed bank, but
the altitude and funnelling
of wind by the surrounding
mountains has made the
lake especially popular with
windsurfers and kitesurfers.
There are much more sedate
cruises around the lake, too,
with several specialising in
birdwatching or simply enjoying
the sunset. Private kitesurfing
lessons from $245 (£181).
ticowind.com

HANGING BRIDGES OF
̭ M I S T I C O PA R K
This cleverly designed forest
walk uses a combination of six
suspension bridges and hairpin
bends to offer continuous
surprises and great access to
jungle wildlife, including toucans
and hummingbirds. Crossing the
vertiginous bridges may be a little
traumatic for anyone lacking a
head for heights (some are nearly
150ft above the forest floor). But
looking out rather than down
is rarely more rewarding — the
IMAGE: JAMIE LAFFERTY

park has great views of waterfalls,

canyons and the Arenal Volcano.
Head out to explore solo or
book onto a natural history or
nighttime tour. Entry from
$26 (£19). misticopark.com The 230ft-high La Fortuna Waterfall

March 2022 73
COSTA RICA
MEE T THE MAKERS
T H E ar tisans
OF G UA N AC A S T E
Famous for its cowboy culture and blissful Pacific beaches, the Guanacaste region is home to one of the world’s
five identified ‘blue zones’, where residents live longer than average. Meeting the area’s artisans reveals age-old
traditions — and a philosophy that might hold the key to longevity
By Costa Rican standards, Santa Cruz is a dry town. Not
in an alcoholic sense — the city’s annual bull-riding
bacchanal is notorious — but dry in that it gets little
rain compared with so much of the rest of the country.
Here you’ll find desiccated forests and pastures, dusty
cowboys and ears of corn growing high in the sun. You’ll
also find a lot of locals with specific trades and skills.
Willy Villafuerte is part of this set, a potter with a
lifetime of experience. His grandmother taught his
father; his father taught him. Like a dozen or so other
potters, he lives and works in the village of Guaitil, just
east of Santa Cruz. The only time he’s taken a break from
his trade was during the pandemic when he instead went
to pick corn at a local farm. “It was no good,” he says in
his rudimentary workshop. “It was bad for my hands.”
And the worst part of this job? “The oven. You’ll see,”
he says, peeling his T-shirt up and over his belly in
preparation for the inferno.
Willy tells me his technique is pre-Columbian. Locally
gathered clay is mixed with water and soil, the bowls and
cups turned on a hand-spun wheel. The settled shape is
then left to dry in the sun for four days before being fired
in a savagely hot wood-fuelled kiln. When I watch him
finally transfer the finished pieces — glowing with heat
— out onto a piece of corrugated iron to cool, I realise I’m
holding my breath.
It’s altogether more relaxing to spend time with Randy
Juárez, the marimba man. Another lifelong aficionado,
he makes, plays and teaches marimba, the irresistibly
jolly percussion instrument that sounds like rhythmic
rain. He refurbishes instruments, too.
But there’s one significant hurdle to his business at
present: the making of the traditional instrument is
banned in Guanacaste because it depends on cedar,
which can’t be harvested from the wild; currently, no
commercial cedar farms exist locally. But to get around
this, Randy recently planted all the necessary tree
74 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
species for the component parts of the marimba on
unused land. “It won’t be ready for 20 years,” explains the
60-year-old musician with a crooked smile, while a small
troop of howler monkeys watches on from the trees. “I
hope I’ll get to make one with local wood in my life.”
Being from Santa Cruz at least gives Randy a better
chance of making it to extreme old age. The city and
wider Guanacaste region are listed as one of the world’s
official ‘blue zones’, where people live to ages far beyond
global norms. Randy and others I speak to attribute
this to a lack of processed food, as well as good weather,
honest work and a general contentment with their lot.
Canano Díaz-Zuñiga attributes it to something else, too:
vino de coyol, a specific type of natural, lightly fermented
booze which he harvests from coyol palm trees on his
farm just after the full moon. During the dry season he
runs a bar at his property and sells bottles to take away.
He offers three versions of increasing potency, though
only the strongest has any real alcohol in it. “I have no
idea just how much,” he says with a straight face. “But
three bottles is the right amount, no more.”
Back in the city, there are local creators who take their
weights and measures a good deal more seriously. The
women of the socially conscious Coopetortilla bake
savoury doughnuts called rosquillas, as well as provide
affordable breakfasts and lunches to the community. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP
Like all the artisans I meet in Santa Cruz, their humble LEFT: Marianela Jiménez
business has been blighted by the pandemic, but the Rojas prepares coffee
co-op has been going since 1975 and has a feeling of at the Coopetortilla
permanence. The founder, Margarita, worked until she co-op in Santa Cruz;
7ˆÞ6ˆ>vÕiÀÌiwÀˆ˜}…ˆÃ
IMAGES: JAMIE LAFFERTY
was 100. The current coordinator, Marianela Jiménez
handmade pottery on the
Rojas, is a comparative youngster at 65, but she hopes to
outskirts of Santa Cruz;
put in a similarly long shift. “Why not? I’m content,” she
Randy Juárez takes a
says, sending another tray of rosquillas to the oven. break from the marimba
̜Ș}>˜`«>Þ}ՈÌ>ÀÆ
HOW TO DO IT: Artisan tours with Diria Expirience start from $30 a tray of rosqiullas, fresh
(£22). facebook.com/diriaexpirience from the oven
COSTA RICA

March 2022 75
COSTA RICA
FO O D I N FO C U S
H A N DL I NG
T H E heat
Talkative San José chef José González closed a much-loved restaurant to run an urban
farm where he hosts tours for food enthusiasts, shining a light on the country’s rich
produce and underserved culinary traditions
Part chef, part farmer, wholly dedicated
food-lover, José González makes an
interviewer’s life pretty easy. Meeting at his
urban farm on the outskirts of San José, I
have a list of prepared questions, but the
38-year-old is so enthusiastic, so intensely
loquacious, that I barely get through three
before an hour has passed. The former
head chef and owner of the celebrated Al
Mercat restaurant machine-guns words at
a dizzying rate — more a tsunami than a
stream of consciousness.
“I call Costa Rica an edible country.
Here, try this, bro,” he says, picking up a
piece of cas — Costa Rican guava — from
the ground. “You don’t mind? That’s how
we do it here. We’re a green and beautiful
76 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
country and there’s all kinds of stuff that we
can take advantage of. Obviously, we have
a greenhouse, too, but there’s so much just
growing around the place. I grew up taking
things from trees, enjoying nature and that’s
what I’ve wanted to do with my cooking for
IMAGES: JAMIE LAFFERTY; TOMAS ESQUIVEL
the past nine years.”
José used the pandemic to take a step back FROM LEFT: Chef José
from the frontline of the restaurant business, González at home on
closing Al Mercat in the Costa Rican capital the Al Mercat estate;
and retreating to his farm. Now, as the an ear of purple corn,
freshly picked at José’s
tourism industry begins to rebound, he’s
farm on the outskirts of
offering culinary tours of his land along with
San José; José presents
opinions on anything food-related. some cacao beans
He doesn’t lack confidence. He knows first- grown on his farm; a
hand what the standard of produce is like in «>Ìi>Ìw˜i`ˆ˜ˆ˜}
the average San José restaurant and assesses restaurant Silvestre

that much of it is “mediocre, average at best”.
He aims for much higher standards.
“My restaurant had a lot of success
because I was going directly to farmers’
markets and choosing the best,” he says.
“Going there, and using my family farm and
other trusted farms around the country, was
how I did my homework.”
The farm sits on the edge of the city, on a
hillside that was once a coffee plantation.
José uses the space to make money and
conduct his tours, but there’s also an
element of experimentation, too. He seems
to value quirk as much as quality. I follow
the chef around his property, occasionally
stopping to have fruit and vegetables shoved
into my hands or mouth. With Costa Rica’s
optimal growing conditions, something
is sprouting all year round. As we walk,
I’m handed cacao, turmeric, impossibly
purple corn, citruses I’ve never heard
of, flowers, kaleidoscopic chillies, herbs
— José champions them all. He just doesn’t
understand why more of his countrymen
don’t take the same approach.
“Nobody showcases this. Too many people
just want to go to the volcanoes and the
beaches — and they’re amazing, obviously
— but nobody wants to show off the cuisine,”
says José, seemingly without breathing.
“Honestly, most of the time tourists just end
up eating eat a lot rice and beans. You can’t
just represent this country with that stuff. We
have 200 types of fruit! I want to say: ‘Dude,
you should be eating this stuff.’”
Surely only boring pragmatists would
disagree with José’s gleefully nationalistic
approach to Costa Rica’s larder, and though
I spend most of my time nodding along with
him, I find it a little hard to believe his claim
that he doesn’t miss the restaurant business.
It seems obvious that a man with this much
energy would be best employed in command
of a kitchen. “Maybe there will be an offer
that interests me in a few years, but right
now, bro, I’m happy here.”
I want to ask something else, but he’s off
again, now onto the subject of Costa Rica’s
reputation for food. Instead of interrupting,
I chew on a bit of cacao and just listen to my
host. “We’re not like Peru — people don’t
come here to eat,” he says. “And they should.
Like I said, this is an edible country.”
HOW TO DO IT: A farm-to-table tour at the Al Mercat
estate starts from $110 (£81). wetravel.com/trips
COSTA RICA
José’s top three
SA N JOSÉ
R ESTAUR A NTS
̩ S I K WA
“Pablo Bonilla is a good
friend of mine and is the chef at
this Indigenous food restaurant.
Like me, he goes straight to the
source for his produce, such as
the Indigenous farmers in the
Talamanca region. He treats the
people and produce with real
respect and comes back with all
sorts of cool stuff, like purple
corn.” sikwacostarica.com
̪ CEDRELA
“I work with this
restaurant, which is just over
an hour away from here, so you
know it’s good food. It’s based
on an avocado and coffee farm
in a really amazing setting.
Over there they have trout and
apples and apricots — and
lots of things we can’t grow so
easily here because we don’t
have the altitude. The food is
really simple, honest and tasty.
It all comes from up there so
you can’t go wrong.” cedrela.cr
̫ S I LV E S T R E
“Santiago Fernández
Benedetto is one of this
country’s most-recognised
V…ivði½Ã`œˆ˜}>Žˆ˜`œvw˜i
dining take on Costa Rican
cuisine. At the beginning I
wasn’t convinced because I’m
not really super into that style
of dining, but they’ve done it in
a really cool way. They’ve got a
good budget and what they’re
doing is really interesting.
Santiago is a really talented
chef.” restaurantesilvestre.com
March 2022 77
COSTA RICA
CLOCKWISE FROM
ABOVE: Bernanda
Morales; seeds from an
achiote or lipstick tree,
which are often used to
paint the skin; a Bribri
man boating along the
unseasonally low waters
of the Yorkin River;
chicken stew and greens
being prepared in Yorkin
village; preparing a
traditional Bribri lunch
78 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Q& A
Indigenous
I NSIGH T S
Bribri leader, Bernanda Morales, explains how, in her village of Yorkin, just upriver from
the Caribbean coast, she’s brought back the Bribri language from the brink of extinction,
creating a sustainable tourism destination in the process
H OW L O N G H AV E YO U B E E N
W E L C O M I N G T R AV E L L E R S
T O YO R K I N ?
It’s been 30 years since we started the Yorkin
Bribri Cultural Programme, but it’s only in
the last 20 that we’ve welcomed visitors. Our
three main goals are to protect the forest, to
improve the economy of the community and
to preserve Bribri culture. It’s very satisfying
that it’s lasted three decades.
W H Y WA S T H E B R I B R I L A N G UAG E
T H R E AT E N E D A N D H OW I S I T
B E I N G S AV E D ?
For a long time, the central government
was only sending white, Spanish-speaking
teachers here. We weren’t allowed to speak
Bribri. When I started the project, I couldn’t
even speak it myself. Now it’s very different
— there are 48 communities in this region all
working together. Every Indigenous school
in this territory is teaching and speaking the
Bribri language.
W H AT C H A L L E N G E S H AV E YO U
FAC E D A S A C O M M U N I T Y ?
It’s still a very important crop locally but in
the past our economy was based 100% on
cacao. But then in 1970 there was a fungus
outbreak in the plants and we couldn’t export
any more. People started leaving to go and
find work, many on banana plantations.
When they left, we lost even more of our
culture. The ones who came back returned
with processed foods and a different way of
living. We started to have health problems
like diabetes here.
Now, with tourists coming here, we have other
forms of employment — we need people to
drive the boats, work in the kitchens and to be
guides in the forest. We still harvest cacao, of
course, but it’s no longer the only thing here.
W H AT I N S P I R E D T H E S H I F T
T OWA R D S T O U R I S M ?
In the 1990s, a group of women and I in
the village started thinking about what we
needed to do. We decided that bringing
outsiders in might stop people going away
in such big numbers. It would create income
within our community. I was only 19 at the
time and some of the elders in the village
thought I was crazy. They were suspicious
of outsiders. It took 10 years to convince
them. Machismo was a big problem — the
men didn’t understand why we wouldn’t just
stay at the home with the children. Now they
understand that we can do any of the jobs
here that they can, and that working with
foreigners isn’t so bad.
H OW H A S C OV I D - 1 9 I M PAC T E D
T H E V I L L AG E ?
We haven’t actually had any here, thank
goodness, but we have some natural
medicines to treat it if we do. Thankfully,
our community is 100% vaccinated, too.
IMAGES: JAMIE LAFFERTY
We believe our god Sibu left all of his
knowledge about health with doctors.
We trust him, so we trust them.
HOW TO DO IT: A full day tour of Yorkin village costs
$135 (£100) with transfers and local lunch included.
lifeculturetravelcostarica.com
COSTA RICA

March 2022 79
 A LOVE-CRAFTED
Destination

Escape to a rainforest dreamland at the foothills of Costa Rica’s magnificent Arenal

Volcano. Amor Arenal greets you with 5-star comforts and inspired hospitality of caring
details. Completely surrounded by pristine tropical rainforest, your heart will soar in
search of adventure and natural wellness.

For reservations contact us at: www.amorarenal.com | reservations@amorarenal.com | +506 2479-7070

 COSTA RICA

LO D G E S

A RO OM
W I T H A view
Tucked amid hot springs, rainforest and soul-quietening stretches of coastline, these
luxury eco-lodges offer memorable interactions with the country’s flora and fauna

ORIGENS
B e s t fo r : R E M O T E L U X U R Y
Due to its location in the far north west of
the country, close to the Nicaraguan border,
it wouldn’t be unreasonable to question
whether the remoteness of Origens makes
visiting worthwhile. For anyone willing to
make the journey, however, this remarkable
lodge offers fabulous views of volcanoes, the
jungle and even distant Lake Nicaragua. The
raw nature experience has been tamed with
more than a little luxury, too: those views can
be enjoyed from fire-heated hot tubs, while
the food is prepared by French-trained chefs
using fresh local ingredients.
From $952 (£720), B&B. originslodge.com

H AC I E N DA A LTAG R AC I A
B e s t fo r : M O U N T A I N A I R
Reopened in 2021 after a major overhaul,
Hacienda AltaGracia is a sprawling estate set
amid 180 acres. With sensational views across
the surrounding valleys, its two restaurants
use almost exclusively Costa Rican produce.
While their coffee is currently gathered from
IMAGES: AVABLU/RYAN FORBES

nearby fincas, 7,000 coffee trees have also

been planted around the property with the
aim of harvesting by 2025. Each of the 50
Dining area, Origens
villas offers plenty of space and privacy, while ABOVE: Architectural
vehicle transport is organised by texting the villa, Origens
compás (a sort of personal butler). NEXT PAGE: Rafting to
From $1,458 (£1,102), full board. Pacuare Lodge
aubergeresorts.com/altagracia

March 2022 81
COSTA RICA

PAC UA R E L O D G E
B e s t fo r : J U N G L E E X P E D I T I O N S
There are many high-end lodges in central ESSENTIALS
Costa Rica, but none deal with arrivals and
departures as spectacularly as Pacuare. NI CA R AGUA

C ar i bbe a n
Reached by a whitewater rafting experience,
ARENAL VOLCANO S e a
this 20-suite lodge announces its intention Guanacaste
La Fortuna

to marry adventure and luxury from the Santa Cruz Limón

SAN JOSÉ
moment guests arrive. More rafting, as well C O S TA R I C A
P
as canyoning and canopy walks, are among A
C
Yorkin

the adventure options, but there’s also a hike I

F
I

PA NAM A
to visit Indigenous communities. Guests can C
O OSA PENINSULA
also unwind in the Jawa Juü Spa or lay back C
E
in a hammock and relax. A
COSTA RICA
From $1,114 (£843), full board.

N
50 miles
pacuarelodge.com

Getting there & around

ÀˆÌˆÃ…čˆÀÜ>ÞÃ>˜`/1yÞ̜
œÃÌ>,ˆV>
`ˆÀiV̏ÞvÀœ“̅i1° ÀˆÌˆÃ…čˆÀÜ>ÞÃ
yˆiÃvÀœ“>Ì܈VŽ̜->˜œÃj]
œÃÌ>
,ˆV>½ÃV>«ˆÌ>]̅Àiï“iÃ>ÜiiŽ°/1
yˆiÃvÀœ“>Ì܈VŽ̜ˆLiÀˆ>]œ˜Vi>
ÜiiŽ°ba.com tui.co.uk
čÛiÀ>}iyވ˜}̈“i\££…Î䓰

œÃÌ>,ˆV>½Ã«ÕLˆVLÕÃÃÞÃÌi“ˆÃ
Àiˆ>Li]ˆ˜iÝ«i˜ÃˆÛi>˜`Ài>̈ÛiÞ
vÀiµÕi˜Ì]iÛi˜ˆ˜Ài“œÌi>Ài>ð
*ÀˆÛ>ÌiÞÀ՘ÅÕÌ̏iLÕÃiÃœvviÀµÕˆVŽiÀ
LÕÌ«ÀˆVˆiÀÌÀ>˜ÃviÀð
>ÀÀi˜Ì>ˆÃ>Ãœ
«œ«Õ>À>˜`ˆÌV>˜LiܜÀ̅ëi˜`ˆ˜}
iÝÌÀ>œ˜>vœÕÀ‡Ü…ii‡`ÀˆÛiÛi…ˆVi̜
Vœ«i܈̅ÀÕÀ>Àœ>`ð

When to go
/i“«iÀ>ÌÕÀiÃÀ>˜}ivÀœ“Ó£
̜ÓÇ
>
Þi>ÀÀœÕ˜`°
œÃÌ>,ˆV>i˜œÞãÓ
`ˆvviÀi˜ÌÌÀœ«ˆV>“ˆVÀœVˆ“>ÌiÃ̅>Ì
Ài“>ˆ˜Vœ˜ÃÌ>˜Ì̅ÀœÕ}…œÕÌ̅iÞi>À°
/…iLiÃÌ̈“i̜ۈÈ̈Ã`ÕÀˆ˜}̅i`ÀÞ
Ãi>ܘ]܅ˆV…À՘ÃvÀœ““ˆ`‡ œÛi“LiÀ
̜č«Àˆ]܅i˜Ìi“«iÀ>ÌÕÀiÃÀi>V……ˆ}…Ã
œvÓn
°>Þ̜“ˆ`‡ œÛi“LiÀˆÃ
ÀiviÀÀi`̜>Ã
œÃÌ>,ˆV>½Ã¼}Àii˜
Ãi>ܘ½]܈̅̅i…i>ۈiÃÌÀ>ˆ˜v>ˆ˜}
ˆ˜-i«Ìi“LiÀ>˜`"V̜LiÀ°

More info
visitcostarica.com/uk

How to do it
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC EXPEDITIONS
œvviÀÃ>˜iˆ}…̇˜ˆ}…Ì >ÌÕÀ>ˆ}…ˆ}…ÌÃ
̜ÕÀvÀœ“Ë£]Ι™«iÀ«iÀܘ]vi>ÌÕÀˆ˜}
CIELO LODGE TA B AC Ó N T H E R M A L R E S O R T & S PA ÃÌ>ÞȘ>œÀÌ՘>>˜`œ˜ÌiÛiÀ`i]
č
\
, č "č
1!č°1-/,č/" \" *1
,
B e s t fo r : O C E A N A D V E N T U R E S
Looking over the waters of the Golfo Dulce
in the country’s south, Cielo Lodge opened
during one of the pandemic’s bleakest
B e s t fo r : V O L C A N I C H O T S P R I N G S
Like its nearby rivals, Tabacón is partly
defined by the mighty Arenal Volcano, an
astonishing beacon that draws visitors from
ˆ˜ÌiÀ˜>̈œ˜>yˆ}…Ì؜̈˜VÕ`i`°
nationalgeographicexpeditions.co.uk
JOURNEY LATIN AMERICAœvviÀÃ>
£x‡`>Þ
œÃÌ>,ˆV>7ˆ`ˆviˆÃVœÛiÀÞ
periods in early 2021. But husband-and-wife
founders Keith and Nicole Goldstein had
confidence that their remarkable six-suite
>ÀˆLLi>˜Vœ>ÃÌÃ]vÀœ“ËÎ]Çää«iÀ
property in the middle of 380 acres of forest
would prove a winning formula. While the
lodge is set back from the coast, many of
œÃÌ>
the activities included in the booking price
focus on the wildlife-rich waters of the gulf.
They include dolphin- and whale-watching,
mangrove tours and trips out to Bird Island.
From $738 (£558), full board. cielolodge.com
82 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
around the world. Although the area has a
host of volcano-related activities on offer
for the enthusiastic traveller, Tabacón isn’t
short of attractions of its own, including its
outstanding spa facility. The highlight for
many visitors is the garden, which has
been cleverly designed to let naturally
heated volcanic water run through it,
gathering in discrete meanders and
pools, giving bathers plenty of privacy.
From $420 (£318), B&B. tabacon.com
̜ÕÀ̅>ÌÌ>ŽiȘčÀi˜>>˜`̅i->˜
œÃjÀi}ˆœ˜]>ÃÜi̅i*>VˆwV>˜`
«iÀܘ]ˆ˜ÌiÀ˜>̈œ˜>yˆ}…ÌØœÌ
ˆ˜VÕ`i`°journeylatinamerica.co.uk
G ADVENTURESœvviÀÃ>£Î‡`>Þ
,ˆV>čV̈Ûič`Ûi˜ÌÕÀi̜ÕÀ̅>̈˜VÕ`iÃ
…ˆŽˆ˜}]ÌÀiŽŽˆ˜}]LˆŽˆ˜}]À>v̈˜}>˜`
Ž>Þ>Žˆ˜}ˆ˜Û>ÀˆœÕë>ÀÌÃœv̅iVœÕ˜ÌÀÞ
vÀœ“Ë£]ә™«iÀ«iÀܘ]ˆ˜ÌiÀ˜>̈œ˜>
yˆ}…Ì؜̈˜VÕ`i`°gadventures.com
 A

86 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
L A N D A PA R T
Ta ke a p i l g r i m a g e t h r o u g h t h e h e a r t o f S i c i l y a l o n g t h e M a g n a
V i a Fr a n c i g e n a , a n a n c i e n t c o a s t - t o - c o a s t r o u t e r e c e n t l y r ev i ve d
by l o c a l s . Tr ave r s i n g h e r b - s c e n t e d va l l eys a n d f o r go t t e n t ow n s ,
e n c o u n t e r t r a d i t i o n a l S i c i l i a n h o s p i t a l i t y, a n c i e n t l e g e n d s
a n d a u n i q u e l y p r e s e r ve d m e l t i n g p o t h e r i t a g e f o u n d n ow h e r e
e l s e o n I t a l y ’s l a r g e s t i s l a n d

WORDS SARAH BARRELL PHOTOGRAPHS FRANCESCO LASTRUCCI

March 2022 87
SICILY
“I
t’s here that you can see the real Sicily,”
says Miri Salamone, staring into the
abyss. Clouds swamp the valley below
and fog floods mountain gullies,
dissolving even Sutera’s hilly peaks
from view. Visibility, as it has been for
days in the veiled heartland of Sicily,
is about as far as you can kick a stone; something I’ve
done regularly in recent days, stumble-walking along
mountain ridges in near whiteout, halfway across the
interior of the island. “From there,” says Miri, squinting
up to the fast-vanishing bell tower crowning the town’s
highest point, Monte San Paolino, “you can often see as
far as Mount Etna one way and Palermo the other.” She
smiles apologetically for the unhelpful weather. “This is
the ‘balcony of Sicily’.”
Even with crystal-clear views, you need to look
hard to see the ‘real Sicily’ that Miri speaks of. As the
Sutera native notes on a soggy tour around her town,
this shapeshifting island of many identities is far more
removed from the Italian mainland than the few miles of
Tyrrhenian Sea would suggest. But here, in the sparsely
populated inland, a place few Sicilians — let alone
Italians — bother to visit, you’ve the best chance. For
along ancient routes cutting a path from the Tyrrhenian
to the Mediterranean is a region that tells Sicily’s story.
Along the old trade roads and pilgrims’ ways that forge
a path through this forgotten land, Byzantine pottery
litters the earth; shepherds’ huts sit cheek-by-jowl with
churches where religious celebrations owe as much to
Moorish Spain as St Peter’s; and local ‘Christian’ names
are likely to recall ancient Greek origins. Here in Sutera,
about as far from either coast as you can get, the town’s
patron saint has Persian heritage and the domed houses
of the old town, Rabato, reveal an Arabic legacy, as does
88 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
the neighbourhood’s name (Rabato comes from ‘rabad’,
Arabic for ‘village’). Sandwiched between Europe and
Africa, for centuries Sicily marked a strategic point
on the world map. Once a colonists’ prize, today the
island is infamous, moans Miri, for its regions ravaged
by organised crime, and for abandoned rural houses
that sell for €1 as part of a drive to reinvigorate Italy’s
underpopulated reaches.
Two teens kick a football around a modest piazza that
juts over Rabato’s largely abandoned dwellings, which
are carved into the gypsum of a breakneck cliffside. Miri
stops to point out the boys. “When children are born here
— just one or two each year — they’re celebrities,” she
says. Teenagers more so, as few resist the bright lights
of the coast or the pull of the wealthy mainland. Local
legend has it there’s treasure in these hills: a chest of gold
hidden in cave-studded cliffs, only to be discovered if
three men dream simultaneously of its location. But in
this part of Sicily, they can’t wait for a dream. In Sutera CLOCKWISE FROM TOP
and a dozen other villages lining the ancient sea-to-sea LEFT: Old streets in
Agrigento, the terminus
roads that slice through the island’s north, they’ve taken
of the Magna Via
fortune into their own hands with an ambitious project
Francigena; the scenic
to boost tourism: reopening a new walking route along village of Castronovo;
millennia-old pilgrims’ trails. fresh cannoli at Caffè
Ten years ago, a group of Italian friends — historians, del Corso Biscari, Santa
archaeologists, naturalists among them — began Cristina Gela; a woman
mapping Sicily’s inland routes as described in the picks a rose in Sutera
Norman texts of crusading knights. Dating back over PREVIOUS PAGES FROM
1,000 years, these forgotten trails once formed part of the LEFT: A hiker outside
the family chapel at
oldest and most popular pilgrim itineraries in Europe:
Masseria Imbriaca farm;
the Via Francigena (‘the Frankish route’) from Canterbury
country views near Cozzo
to Rome and southeast to the Holy Lands. The Sicilian Spoletino pass. Both
section, a 600-mile network of trans-island roads, paths, are found on the stretch
trading routes and trazzere (grazing tracks), was used for of the route between
centuries by everyone from the Greeks to the Romans, Corleone and Prizzi
 SICILY

March 2022 89
SICILY

Totò Greco in his cellar in Prizzi, sharing

the wine he produces with hikers
CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT: Marking the
Magna Via Francigena trail between
Corleone and Prizzi; view of Sutera‘s
ancient Rabato quarter

90 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

Normans, Arabs, Aragonese and more, each leaving
treasures and traces that can still be found today.
A monumental project to revive the route, involving
80 local authorities and six dioceses, came to fruition
in 2017. Along the main artery, the 112-mile Magna Via
Francigena, walkers can collect stamps to fill their
pilgrim’s passport at participating venues along a route
that runs through the island’s north between the coastal
cities of Palermo and Agrigento. In the latter’s cathedral,
a testimonium certificate awaits triumphant trekkers;
hopefully, weather permitting, this will include my
friend and me.
BLIND FAITH
My passport gets its first stamp high over the Plain of
the Albanians, outside Palermo. The ricotta that stars
in Sicily’s most priapic export — cannoli — comes from
sheep grazed in these arable lands. Sadly, the sole cafe
open in the tiny town of Santa Cristina Gela is out of the
sweet pastry treats. By way of substitute, we pack panini
for a picnic en route and get our passport stamped by the
barista, one of numerous pilgrim-welcoming locals at
participating venues the length of the Via, in bars, chapels,
shops and B&Bs. On the road skirting hills covered in the
wild herbs that give ricotta its earthy-sweet flavour, my
luggage has travelled ahead by car to tonight’s hotel, part
of a service offered by select operators serving the Via.
It’s late autumn, Sicily’s storm season, and four
Belgians are the only other walkers today. “We
meet annually to go hiking, mostly around the
Mediterranean,” says Mark, an anglophone and the self-
appointed spokesperson for the group, with whom we
cross paths in coming days. They forge ahead, all utility
shorts and well-worn boots, leaving my companion
and me to the steady pace we’ve established over years
SICILY
walking together. A clattering storm scuppered our
previous night’s sleep, and we set out under a still-
bruised sky, bags under our eyes heavier than daypacks,
but bolstered by bullet-strong espresso.
The sky threatens again as we climb above Sicily’s
breadbasket country, where canyons of palm, aloe and
prickly pear cactus look incongruously subtropical
among brown wheat fields and muddy livestock. A
detachment of semi-feral dogs defends the few shuttered
hamlets we pass, their warning barks undermined by
wagging tails. The Via’s red-and-white striped waymarks,
painted onto posts at frequent intervals, encourage us
onwards along dirt tracks becoming indistinct in the
mist. A sudden, tree-whipping wind signals a storm
seconds before it hits. Clouds roll across the ground like
a pyroclastic flow, followed by the kind of rain that has
powerful contempt for waterproof clothing. Mud becomes
clay, knee-deep and with a quicksand ferocity that claims
one of our shoes. Digging it out, it’s barely laced before it
must be removed again for us to wade through rising bogs
and ford rivers where streams had recently been.
Hours on, the muddy trudge becomes about as fun
as poking a stick in your eye (which I know to be true,
as this happened while bending to tie a mud-drowned
bootlace). Onwards, more blindly than before, we’re
saved by a miracle just outside the shrine of Tagliavia.
It’s not the face of the Virgin Mary, as seen on a rock
here by two shepherds in 1800, but the offer of help via
WhatsApp. Finally finding reception, my phone pings
with messages from ‘friends’ of the Francigena. Along
with trip notes, maps and an offline GPS-enabled app, my
tour operator, UTracks, has plugged me into a network
of local volunteers, offering assistance to pilgrims with
everything from a hot meal to an affordable bed for the
night or, when needed, an unofficial SOS service.
March 2022 91
SICILY

92 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

œÀiœ˜iÆ>«ÀˆVŽÞ«i>ÀV>VÌÕȘ
“We usually rescue people who’ve overheated,” says
Marialicia Pollara, whose four-wheel-drive meets us at
the head of a washed-out track. “There’s not a stick of
shade en route.” Francigena, quite the Goldilocks walk,
is just right in spring, when it’s not too hot, not too cold.
“That’s when it’s full of wildflowers,” says Marialicia.
“But you’re especially unlucky now.” Instead of autumn’s
short-lived storms, we’ve apparently walked into the
tail-end of a cyclone, where “a flash flood took a car out
last week”. Thanks to winter floodplain detours, the Via
is accessible year-round. “But this is crazy weather,”
says Marialicia, motoring us out of the downpour,
as the priest at Tagliavia’s chapel takes in a Czech
pilgrim whose tent stands no chance tonight. At her
guesthouse in Corleone, La Bicicletta Rossa, we’re joined
by Marialicia’s husband, Carmelo, for a family dinner.
Homemade lentil soup and farm-fresh ricotta, drizzled
with jade-green olive oil just in from the harvest, is a
supper worthy of a waterlogged pilgrimage.
STORIES OF STOICISM
“The Mafia wasn’t born in Corleone — it’s all over Italy,”
says Federico Blanda. We’re standing beside a photo of
a young man shot dead on a nearby cobbled street. It’s
one of numerous blood-splattered images of organised
crime in 1970s and ’80s Italy lining the walls at Cidma,
the anti-Mafia museum set in a former Corleone
orphanage. “I used to hate seeing people here on the trail
of Don Corleone — a fictional film character,” says guide
Federico. “But I’ve realised we must use the opportunity
to tell the real story.” And the real story isn’t one of
romanticised Godfather feuds, but one of resistance.
Beyond a gut-punching gallery of photojournalism by
Letizia Battaglia, a vast archive of court documents
details the 474 Mafiosi tried in Palermo’s Maxi Trial
— which lasted almost six years — by such steel-nerved
judges as Paolo Borsellino and Giovanni Falcone.
“Judges, journalists, campaigners: they paid with their
lives for their bravery,” says Federico. Cidma celebrates
these fallen heroes, murdered by the Mafia in retaliation.
“Back then, we were a population of 10,000; just a
handful were Mafia. Yet Corleone’s people still live with
the stigma.” He smiles: “So, I love it when visitors come
looking for a myth and leave talking about Falcone.”
As the Via brings more visitors, Corleone’s story has
more chance of being heard. Stacked spectacularly across
tabletop mountains and plunging canyons, the town is a
stellar stage on which the Magna Via Francigena zig-zags
mercilessly, passing churches and monasteries where
pointy-hatted brotherhoods gather in spring for Easter
celebrations. “It’s another story little known beyond
our island,” says Federico of the region’s Semana Santa
processions that challenge Spain’s for pomp and scale,
but draw none of the international crowds.
SICILY
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Marialicia Pollara (right) and Silvana Marsalisi
LÞ̅iVÀÕVˆwÝœÛiÀœœŽˆ˜}
čÀ>}œ˜>ÆÃÌÀiiÌÃVi˜iˆ˜̅iœ`̜ܘœv*Àˆââˆ
We follow the San Nicolò river as it tumbles from
Corleone in a chain of waterfalls that once powered the
region’s mills. As small-scale wheat production declined,
locals couldn’t turn to the tourism that bolstered the
coast. “People don’t arrive here just passing by,” says Totò
Greco, another friend of Francigena, whom I meet in the
nearby teetering hilltop town of Prizzi, far from any main
road. “But now, people can cater to pilgrims.” Prizzi had no
hotels previously, so, like Marialicia and many Via locals,
Totò transformed a family house into a hip, hostel-style
B&B. He’s also set up an association — Sikanamente,
named after the surrounding Sicani hills — to incentivise
resident youngsters to stay in the area.
At Prizzi’s sizeable archaeology museum, Totò
shows off Roman coins and jewellery, as well as other
artifacts dating back as far as 5,000 BC, which were
mostly found on Sicani’s slopes. I’m particularly taken
with a third-century clay-sculpted foot, which bears
a remarkable resemblance to my walking boots. Then
it’s off to Totò’s cantina to sample this season’s wine.
Like a growing number of enterprising young locals,
Totò is transforming an old masseria (country farm)
into a vineyard, learning how to make wine, reviving
native grape varieties and employing local artists to
design labels. “You have to create your own path as no
one is teaching you how to do things here,” says his
colleague, Gabriella Lo Bue. Like many entrepreneurs I
meet, Gabriella has recently returned to Sicily after years
working abroad, partly due to pandemic constraints,
but also because of the prospects the pilgrimage brings.
“We all bring skills with us and new ways to promote the
region,” she says. “It’s exhausting but exciting.”
These bright new horizons do not extend to the
weather. A storm explodes again over Casale Margherita,
our next overnight stop, where the owner, Carmelo,
refuses to let us continue on foot. “The river’s burst
its banks,” he says, chasing us in his pickup truck the
following morning. “It’s just not safe — I’ll drive you to
the next hill.” Carmelo’s organic farm and gourmet hotel
is a new investment. “Tell everyone about us,” he yells, as
he waves us off on the hair-raising climb to Sutera. With
roads once again running like rivers, we meet the stoic
Belgians who jumped a railway track to avoid the river
crossing. Raincoats defeated by the endless deluge, they
now carry village-bought brollies, one in powder blue
with a white lace-effect trim. They trudge away uphill
resembling a huddle of old ladies off to the shops.
CLEAR AS A BELL
When morning dawns in Sutera, it’s as if the storm never
happened. Yesterday’s gloom is replaced by laser sun
illuminating every rock, crack and crevice. Shafts of light
sheer through the huge fissure dividing Monte Xacca,
where the rock split, so it’s said, the moment Jesus died.
March 2022 93
   


      




  

 

      !"!!   "#    !     !"!!
$ %  & '      '    ( % ')
  
ł̥͔Ʉǹ ŸǹʳǹȧɄ ¤˧͔Ʉʳ Ԩ ƍʇ̥ǹȧͣ̓ǹ ƀ ĭǹΑ˧̓ ¤˧͔Ʉʳ Ԩ ʇǹ̥ȳʇ˗ʇ ĭǹΑ˧̓
̥Ʉ̓Ʉ̥΄ǹ͔ʇ˧˗̓ԝ˧̥͔Ʉǹ̛ǹʳǹȧɄՐȧ˧ː Ԩ դӬӳ ӨӳӬө өӰ ӰӲө Ƞ˧˧ʫʇ˗ɪ˗ǹΑ˧̓ԝ̥ͣ̓̓˧͔͔ʇɪɴՐȧ˧ː Ԩ դӬӳ ӨӳӭӪ Ӯө ӳӬө
 SICILY

“Even now, religion is at the centre of our town,” says

Miri, when we meet again. “Church bells still shape our
day.” Three special bells placed at intervals mark the
pilgrims’ climb up Monte San Paolino, over an ascent
of 157 steps carpeted with fallen pinecones from which
nuts are gathered to make a local pasta with raisins. On
reaching the bell at the summit — a one-ton gift from
the Vatican — I haul a huge rope pulley, thus sounding a
bass chime that makes my teeth shake and sends lizards
scuttling through the undergrowth.
Our path is blessed, it seems, from here onwards.
Sunlit trails of chalk and shale line rolling hills towards
the sea, now looming on the horizon and making my
Luis Gomes de Teran’s Boy with a
coast-to-coast pilgrimage finally seem like a visible
Stone Earring, one of the artworks
reality. “All of Sicily is a dimension of the imagination,” enlivening the town of Grotte
wrote Leonardo Sciascia, the region’s great novelist, BELOW: Ciardonelli, a local sweet
who was born in Racalmuto. I make a pilgrimage within ÌÀi>Ì“>`i܈̅>“œ˜`Ã]w}Ã>˜`
a pilgrimage to his 1930s museum-piece apartment: a ricotta, Caffè Marconi, Grotte
highlight of this town, which offers shiny boutiques,
palm-shaded piazzas and a grand, 19th-century theatre.
Sciascia’s novel Sicilian Uncles has been worth the extra
weight in my backpack, painting the island’s complex
mid-century portrait, caught between US and German
occupation, Italian and Sicilian identities.
“In Sicily, we have many stories of identity and
transformation,” says Alessandro Marsala, whom I
meet at Caffè Marconi in the little hillside town of
Grotte. “Perhaps it’s the influence of Greek legends,” she
continues. “Or because so many nations have left their
mark here,” adds her dad Carmelo, the cafe’s owner. The
old town’s cave dwellings that once housed shepherds
gave Grotte its name, but its murals now make the
place renowned. Over the past five years, a community
project to engage local and international artists has
transformed the once-abandoned old town into a vast
outdoor gallery. One house has a facade depicting, over
two storeys, a snake-woman, recalling the Sicilian legend
of La Biddina, a heartbroken girl whose sorrow turned
her into a serpent. Many other images are illusions that
only appear depending on their angle of view. The energy
these murals have brought to this tiny town is palpable.
Also in the air is the scent of mpignolata — pastries
filled with fried onion and pancetta that line stomachs
on St Martin’s Day (11 November), when the year’s new
wines are celebrated. We are, of course, quickly invited
to a festive lunch, where handmade arancini and fresh
cannoli with local ricotta play starring roles. My English
reserve marvels that wherever the Via has taken us, rain
or shine, it truly feels as if we’re meeting family. Carmelo
drops us at the trail head, first jumping a fence to scrump
some corbezzolo for us. Gathering a handful of the gem-
like fruit of the strawberry tree, he waves heartily at the
distant farmer who looks on, mouth agape. “We’re all
family here,” he laughs.

March 2022 95
SICILY

ESSENTIALS
20 miles

Ty r r h e n i a n S e a

Palermo
Santa Cristina di Gela

Corleone Prizzi Mt Etna

MAGNA VIA Cammarata
FRANCIGENA
Sutera
Aragona Racalmuto

Agrigento

ITALY
M E D I T E R R A N E A N
S EA
SICILY

Getting there & around

,Þ>˜>ˆÀyˆiØœ˜‡Ã̜«LiÌÜii˜
-Ì>˜ÃÌi`>˜`*>iÀ“œ°"̅iÀ>ˆÀˆ˜iÃ]
ˆ˜VÕ`ˆ˜} ÀˆÌˆÃ…čˆÀÜ>ÞÃ]/č>˜`-܈ÃÃ
ÃiÀÛi-ˆVˆÞÃi>ܘ>ÞœÀyÞۈ>̅iˆÀ
ÕÀœ«i>˜…ÕLðryanair.com ba.com
itaspa.com swiss.com
čÛiÀ>}iyˆ}…Ì̈“i\Ӆx䓰
œÕÀÞÌÀ>ˆ˜ÃÀ՘LiÌÜii˜*>iÀ“œ>˜`
č}Àˆ}i˜Ìœ܈̅>œÕÀ˜iÞ̈“iœvӅ°
thetrainline.com

When to go
/…i>}˜>6ˆ>À>˜Vˆ}i˜>ˆÃ>VViÃÈLi
Þi>À‡ÀœÕ˜`°7ˆ˜ÌiÀ`i̜ÕÀÃÌ>Ži…ˆŽiÀÃ
>LœÛiyœœ`«>ˆ˜Ã]LÕÌëÀˆ˜}ˆÃLÞv>À
̅iLiÃÌ̈“i̜ÌÀ>Ûi]܅i˜̅iÀœÕÌiˆÃ
ÀˆV…܈̅܈`yœÜiÀÃ>˜`Ã̜À“Ã>Ài
I trail a shepherd and his flock downhill to Aragona, ABOVE:/iÃ̈“œ˜ˆÕ“
ÃV>˜Ì°/i“«iÀ>ÌÕÀiÃÛ>ÀÞ܈̅>ÌˆÌÕ`i°
where some of the treasures of Sicily’s wealthiest families œv̅i>}˜>6ˆ>
čÃ>}Ո`i]-ÕÌiÀ>pœ˜iœv̅i…ˆ}…iÃÌ
are found. Here, local count Luigi Naselli was crowned À>˜Vˆ}i˜>]ÀiViˆÛi`
«œˆ˜ÌÃœ˜̅iÀœÕÌipÀ>˜}iÃvÀœ“
ˆ˜č}Àˆ}i˜Ìœ°/…i
Prince of Aragona by Spain’s King Filippo IV. His castle, >ÀœÕ˜`™
ˆ˜>˜Õ>ÀÞ̜Îä
ˆ˜Տް
ÃÌ>“«i`ViÀ̈wV>Ìi
completed in the 18th century, is frescoed by Flemish
ViÀ̈wiÃ̅iVœ“«ïœ˜
painter Guglielmo Borremans and surrounded by gothic Places mentioned
œv̅i«ˆ}Àˆ“>}i
churches in which ecclesiastical museums shine with čÀV…iœœ}Þ“ÕÃiՓ]*Àˆâ∰
comune.prizzi.pa.it/turismo/il-museo
decorated ex-votos, Venetian religious robes and even

ˆ`“>°cidmacorleone.it
a bejewelled scrap of the Turin shroud. Yet, away from
-ˆŽ>˜>“i˜Ìi°sikanamente.org
the coast and its stellar archaeological site, Valley of the
>Ã>i>À}…iÀˆÌ>° casalemargherita.eu
Temples, Aragona is woefully overlooked. It’s a fine place > ˆVˆViÌÌ>,œÃÃ>°
for a fortifying plate of spaghetti all’aragonese, laced with instagram.com/labiciclettarossacorleone
the region’s legendary pistachio nuts. It’s best sampled at ÀœÌÌi“ÕÀ>«ÀœiVÌ°
Lo Sperdicchio, a family-run restaurant where pilgrims labiddina.wixsite.com/website
can touch a lucky wine barrel painted with local saints čVViÃÃ̜-ÕÌiÀ>½Ã«ˆ}Àˆ“LiÃ“ÕÃÌLi
and get their penultimate passport stamp. LœœŽi`ˆ˜>`Û>˜Vi°facebook.com/
museoetnoantropologicosutera
In Agrigento, where the Med shines blue and the Via’s
medieval villages feel like a dream, my journey’s end
More info
is announced with a locked door. Agrigento’s towering
-ˆVˆÞ/œÕÀˆÃ“° visitsicily.info
cathedral, where views stretch back to Sutera’s peaks
The Magna Via Francigena Trail: Sicily
and across to Africa, is shut for renovation. I stand on Foot, From Coast to Coast,LÞ
outside foolishly as Agrigento goes about its smartly >ۈ`i
œ“Õ˜>i­/iÀÀi®°å£È­Ë£Î®
dressed Sunday business. But as ever, the friends of the Sicilian Uncles,LÞiœ˜>À`œ-Vˆ>ÃVˆ>
Francigena step in. A WhatsApp message pops up, telling ­À>˜Ì>®°Ën°™™
me that the cathedral’s pastor, Don Giuseppe Pontillo,
1-/,č/" \" *1 ,

will sign my testimonium once he’s finished mass in How to do it

a neighbouring church. The padre does as promised, UTRACKSœvviÀÃÃiv‡}Ո`i`̜ÕÀÃœv̅i
>}˜>6ˆ>À>˜Vˆ}i˜>° ˆ}…Ì`>ÞÃVœÃÌÃ
ironically warning of the dehumanising dangers
ËnÇä«iÀ«iÀܘ]ˆ˜VÕ`ˆ˜}ÃiÛi˜˜ˆ}…Ìý
of mobile phone communication. I ask him if he’s
E ˆ˜̅Àii‡ÃÌ>À…œÌiÃ] E Ã>˜`>˜
completed the pilgrimage. He gives me a stern look as if >}ÀˆÌÕÀˆÃ“œ°Ì>Ãœˆ˜VÕ`iÃ>Àœ>`LœœŽ]
to say: you think I have time for that? “But it is what we “>«Ã]˜>ۈ}>̈œ˜>>««]Õ}}>}i
all desperately need,” he says. “To make real connections ÌÀ>˜ÃviÀÃ]i“iÀ}i˜VÞ…œÌˆ˜i>˜`--
with our world and with each other.” >iÀÌ>˜`«ˆ}Àˆ“ë>ÃëœÀÌ° utracks.com

96 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
CYCLE SICILY WITH US
LOCAL EXPERTS SINCE 2001

Self-guided tours - leisure and road bike

Baroque South East - Etna & Taormina -Sicily’s Wild West

Tailor-made tours
With cycling guide and support van

Bike rental
Hybrids - Road bikes - E-bikes - MTB - Tandems

CICLOFREE For more details contact

www.ciclofree.it | info@ciclofree.it
CICLOTURISMO IN SICILIA
 WHERE
COPPER
MEETS
EMERALD
98 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 Squaring up to the Celtic Sea in the
country’s south east, Ireland’s Copper
Coast offers a romp through geological
and human history, taking in wild coves,
rocks that predate the dinosaurs,
saintly sites and ghostly mining ruins.
Turning back to nature, local foragers,
chefs and artists are putting this lesser-
visited area in the spotlight

WO R D S K E R RY WA L K E R
PHOTOGRAPHS DANIEL ALFORD

March 2022 99
IRELAND

T
he October sun, pale as
moonlight, is struggling
to break through a wall
of cloud that’s heralding a
storm. Waves whip bad-
temperedly off the Celtic
Sea, crashing against dark
fangs of rock and bringing a strong hit
of brine to wild Garrarus Beach on
Ireland’s Copper Coast. Exposed by the
ebbing tide, the foreshore is webbed with
seaweeds, which, to the untrained eye,
all appear identical.
“Look,” my foraging guide, Marie Power,
whispers, “it’s like a miniature world; a
sea garden.” A narrow beam of torchlight
illuminates the frills and fronds of emerald
sea lettuce, gold-green wrack, purple-red
dillisk [dulse] and thick, amber ribbons of
kelp. Crouching by the rock pools, Marie is a
water-shoed queen peering gracefully into a
chest of brilliant jewels.
“We used to drive the length of the Copper
Coast — before people started calling it that
— every weekend when I was a child,” Marie
says. “My mum would say: ‘This is the most
beautiful place on earth, we don’t need fancy
foreign holidays.’ I didn’t believe her, but she
was right.”
Everyone raves about western Ireland’s
Wild Atlantic Way, yet this coast is just as
raw and fiercely lovely — and there’s barely a
soul in sight. The result of volcanic activity
that started on the ocean floor 460 million
years ago, this spectacularly buckled and
“I’d eat seaweed as a child: dried dillisk,
boiled sleabchan [laver] and carrageen
pudding. But then it fell out of fashion as
tastes became more sophisticated. People
associated it with poverty. Fed it to their
horses. Now I eat it all the time. It’s packed
with vitamins and minerals, iron and
iodine,” she enthuses, as we watch the waves,
picnicking on rolls with dulse and sweet kelp
crisps. The lunch of centenarians.
Running 16 miles east to west between
Kilfarrasy and Stradbally, the Copper
Coast UNESCO Global Geopark, in County
Waterford, sounds small on paper, but feels
far bigger in reality. Outside of summer
weekends, the narrow roads dashing down to
the sea are almost empty. Coves make deep
thumbprints along the coast, forcing me to
stop every mile or two to look out at surf-
hammered Bunmahon; at Stage Cove, where
copper was once loaded onto mighty ships;
and at Dunabrattin Head, where a path whips
along cliffs to a remote Iron Age promontory
fort. On the tide-smoothed sands of
Stradbally, birdsong floats from ancient
sessile oak woods and a rust-coloured
stream sneaks down to the fizzing Atlantic.
Mine are the only footsteps I hear.
“This coast has fascinating geology and
industrial heritage,” says geologist Robbie
Galvin when we meet at the Geopark’s
visitor centre, set in a former church. “At
Ballydowane Bay, you can see the remnants
of an 18th-century silver mine in a sea stack.
At Knockmahon, you’ll find the Pipes of
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The picturesque
IMAGES: ALAMY; DANIEL ALFORD

contorted coastline looks like a window onto
the dawn of creation. Every rock, sea stack
and pleat in the strata exposes another layer
of geological history.
Marie has been a seaweed evangelist in
these parts for the past two decades, reviving
the age-old Irish tradition of gathering,
cooking and eating the slimy stuff, which she
swears is the secret to living to 100.
Baidhb.” The latter are polygonal columns
of rhyolite — the coast’s very own Giant’s
Causeway, minus the crowds. “Prehistory is
everywhere: in passage tombs, dolmens and
one of the world’s highest concentrations of
promontory forts.”
We stop at the Geological Garden, in
Bunmahon, where a pair of ogham stones
stand, their runic inscriptions redolent
harbour of Dungarvan, a coastal town to
the west of the Copper Coast; picking
sea beet with local forager Andrew
Malcolm; Andrew’s foraging supplies
Michelin-starred The House Restaurant,
in Ardmore, among other restaurants
PREVIOUS PAGES: Tankardstown Copper
Mine, on the road between Bunmahon
and Kilmurrin Beach

100 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 IRELAND

March 2022 101

IRELAND

of the early Christian language used by

Celtic saints. “That’s the cursing stone,”
says Robbie, nodding towards a modest-
looking lump of basalt. “Legend has it your
curses come true if you walk around it
anticlockwise.” Nearby, the ruined engine
house and chimney of Tankardstown, a
19th-century copper-mining town, appear
spectrally lit in the gathering mist.
Today, those carving out a living on this
coast work in tandem with nature and the
tides. One such man is environmental artist
Sean Corcoran, who creates huge, intricate,
sand art drawings on the beach using
nothing but a garden rake. His work has
taken him worldwide, but his happy place
is Kilmurrin Cove, with its vast scoop of
golden sand.
“This is my sketch pad,” says Sean, as
we begin raking, intuitively echoing the
contours of the coast; the sinuous shapes
of fossils and seaweeds. “It started when I
moved here 10 years ago. I was sitting on top
of these cliffs, wondering what I could do,
when I saw a horse being led in circles on
the beach, leaving a trail of footprints and
hoofprints. I rushed home, got my garden
rake and started doodling on the beach. I
love the transience of it: But the drawing
doesn’t go away instantly, it leaves an imprint
— like invisible ink.”
Out at sea, a few brave wild swimmers are
diving into gaspingly cold waters. But on
this damp autumn day, I prefer my seawater
warm, and poured into a tub.
In the southern crook of Dungarvan Bay,
Helvick Head looms silent and mystical in
the pearl-grey gloom. A few trawlers clank
in the harbour, where I find Sólás Na Mara
(‘solace of the sea’), a former fish auction
house reborn as an intimate, family-run spa
upholding the centuries-old Irish tradition
of seaweed baths. Serrated wrack and other
wrack seaweeds are harvested locally,
then tossed into great cast-iron tubs filled
with warm seawater pumped directly in at
high tide.
“Seaweed has come a long way since
it was used as animal fodder and potato
fertiliser,” explains owner Éimhín Ní
Chonchúir, as we look out across a foggy sky
IMAGES: DANIEL ALFORD

dissolving into a quicksilver sea. “It can work

wonders on many conditions, from arthritis
to eczema. People arrive unsure and leave
surprised and energised.”
In my private, candlelit chamber, following
a deep-cleansing steam in a hand-built,

102 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 IRELAND

cedar-wood cabin, I sink into the seaweed

bath. I tentatively drape tendrils across me
at first, then I go full-on mermaid, wrapping
myself entirely in the silky, sensuous ribbons,
embracing the womb-like warmth and the
tang of sea and watching the vapour rise in
wisps like dancing spirits from the deep.

SEA & SAINTS

At Ferrypoint, where the River Blackwater
empties into the Celtic Sea, the day dawns as
bright as a new penny. Rain has rinsed the
land clean, bringing piercing blue October
skies and sunshine so dazzling it makes me
squint. Seabirds trilling overhead, a lane
curls gently away to whitewashed cottages
and low-browed hills: a tableau ripped from
the popular imagining of the Emerald Isle.
“Here, taste this,” says local forager
Andrew Malcolm, ushering me over to the
boot of his car. I dip my finger into a wooden
box. “Dried hogweed seeds,” he grins. “It
can be used as a cardamom substitute. And
this feisty one here: water pepper.” A man
walking a dog wanders past, eyeing us with
curiosity. “God, he must think I’m a drug
dealer or something,” chuckles Andrew.
Buoyed by my trip along the Copper Coast,
I’m keen to see more of what this overlooked
stretch of southern Ireland has to offer and
have linked up with Andrew, who’s combed
these shores — and scoured its waters for
marine-life sightings — for the past 30 years.
“This is my supermarket. Everything I
need is right here, just metres apart,” he says,
handing me sandwort, a tiny perennial that
tastes of broadbean and cucumber. “Try some
sea radish pods,” he urges. “They’re nice and
peppery.” “Like wasabi,” I venture. “We’ll do
wasabi in a minute,” he adds, rushing over to
a rock. “There’s your wasabi! Scurvy-grass.
It’s packed with vitamin C and comes in all
different heats, like chilli.”
Andrew’s accent betrays him as Northern
Irish. What brought him here all those years
ago, I ask. “Whales,” he shrugs, as if this were
the most natural thing in the world. “I joined
the Irish Whale and Dolphin Group. The
cliffs at Helvick Head are brilliant for whale-
watching up close. We even get fin whales,
the second-largest creatures on earth.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Sean Corcoran’s sand art

drawings, viewed from high above Kilmurrin Cove;
Sean at work on the sands of Kilmurrin; painted buoys
dot the waterfront at Dungarvan

March 2022 103

IRELAND
You can see their six-metre blow 20 miles off.
The old whalers wouldn’t touch them because
they’re too fast: the greyhounds of the sea.”
Back at the car, Andrew flings open the
boot and the smell of apricots wafts up as
he reveals a basket brim-full of chanterelles
he’s delivering to the Cliff House Hotel’s
Michelin-starred The House Restaurant in
Ardmore, five miles east.
Ardmore is my next destination, too. As well
as its food credentials, the village is the
endpoint of a new hiking route, launched
last summer. St Declan’s Way — stretching
around 70 miles inland to Cashel, in County
Tipperary — follows in the saint’s footsteps,
treading the now legend-steeped path he took
to meet St Patrick, and subsequently establish
a monastery, in the fifth century.
On a golden autumn day, the coastline
near Ardmore seems touched by a godly
hand. Picking up the trail on its final leg,
I wind my way past gorse and bramble to
St Declan’s Stone — miraculously carried
across on the waves from Wales, or so the
legend goes — and St Declan’s Well, where
a couple from Cork are frantically filling
bottles of the allegedly miracle-working holy
water. To my right are fields where skylarks
sing; to my left is the craggy, wave-battered
coast, where I sight the rusting remains of
104 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
the crane barge Samson, which ran aground
in 1987. Far below, seals haul themselves onto
rocks lapped by a pewter sea.
The trail ends at Ardmore Cathedral, where
St Declan’s monastery once stood. Fallen
into ruin, the cathedral harbours the oratory
where St Declan supposedly lies buried.
Above it stands a distinctive round tower,
where monks sought refuge and hid their
treasures from raiders in the Middle Ages.
Raiders also targeted the River Blackwater,
snaking north. My guide, Eugene Burke,
from Blackwater Eco Tours in Villierstown,
rattles off quick-witted tales of Viking and
Norman invaders as we boat along a forest-
fringed sweep of tidal river as broad as a lake.
The waterway has a quiet, secretive beauty,
preserved over the ages by the aristocratic
families whose grand houses line the banks:
Italianate Tourin House, owned by the
Jameson family of whiskey distillers; and
flamboyant Dromana House, the abode of the
Villiers-Stuarts. Around them are limestone
cliffs and forests are so impenetrable,
ancient and ivy-bedraggled, they seem part
Amazon, part fairytale.
“This is our jungle,” beams Eugene.
“We see egrets and reed warblers, otters,
white-tailed eagles and ospreys plunging
down to catch trout. You’ll never get closer

FROM LEFT: A sheep spotted near the
IMAGES: DANIEL ALFORD
Magic Road, near the Mahon Falls in
the Comeragh Mountains; Marie Power,
>ÃœŽ˜œÜ˜>Ã̅i-i>>À`i˜iÀ]w˜`Ã
some pepper dulse while foraging on
Garrarus Beach; The view west along
the Copper Coast from the headland
above Bunmahon Stage Cove
to peregrine falcons than here — it’s
breathtaking,” he sighs, as we putter along
a stretch of river where schooners once
transported coal and timber. Now, time
has wiped the slate clean and nature has
thoroughly reclaimed it.
As twilight deepens, I head to the Cliff
House Hotel for dinner. At the helm of its
lauded The House Restaurant is Ian Doyle,
previously head chef at two-Michelin-
starred Oaxen Krog in Stockholm, where the
focus was on foraging, sustainability and
minimising waste. Now he’s brought that
smart Scandi ethos back home.
“Food should tell a story,” says Ian, who
tells me his first forays into cooking involved
making jam tarts with his mum’s pastry
offcuts. “I work with local farmers and
foragers. I use a lot of seaweed, too. It’s been
cool in Nordic countries and Japan for years,
but is now reappearing in Irish food. It’s part
of our history. Who we are.”
If the tasting menu is anything to go
by, Ian has come a long way since jam
tarts. Mussel puree with marigolds and
sea beet; hen of the woods mushroom
with fermented turnip and potato tea;
just-caught Ardmore lobster; and
blackberries with woodruff and lavender
ice cream — each dish is harmoniously
and meticulously composed and full of
unexpected nuances.
IRELAND
TO THE LIGHTHOUSE
A short drive the following morning takes me
to Dungarvan, a coastal town and harbour
to the west of the Copper Coast, where sea
mirrors sky and the smell of wood smoke fills
back alleys. A fortress guards the harbour and
shop facades look freeze-framed in the 1950s.
But its appeal comes mostly from its people
— people who still pass the time of day.
Because of this, it takes me an hour to
explore just half-a-dozen stalls on market
day. I buy Knockalara sheep’s cheese, made
with milk from the cheesemaker’s own flock,
and soft, floury, white Waterford blaa rolls, a
throwback to the bread introduced by 17th-
century Huguenots (‘blaa’ being a corruption
of the French ‘petit blanc’). Everyone wants
to chat, but then hospitality has always been
Dungarvan’s forte: legend has it that Oliver
Cromwell spared the town in 1649 because a
lady offered him a goblet of wine.
This isn’t the only local legend. Paul Flynn,
chef-owner at Tannery restaurant, has long
been the driving force behind the region’s
exciting food scene. The lure of his homeland
drew him away from the cut and thrust of
London kitchens and back to Dungarvan in
1997. In a daring move, he overhauled a former
leather factory, once notorious for its stink, and
began cooking dishes that sang of the region,
opening a cookery school and spearheading a
food festival that attracted top chefs.
March 2022 105

“There was no food culture in Ireland when
I was young,” Paul explains. “Food was plain.
But I was determined to put a positive spin
on it. The humbler the ingredient, the more
it appeals; burly root vegetables cooked in
brown butter, beef cheeks so soft you can eat
them with a spoon. I make silk purses out of
sows’ ears.”
Dinner is unforgettable: crab crème brûlée,
roast monkfish with cep puree and pickled
mushrooms, and slow-braised beef cheek
with onion puree are profoundly flavoured
and brilliantly executed. This is food to come
back time and again for; food that touches
upon southern Ireland’s soul.
On clear days, the Comeragh Mountains
are visible north of Dungarvan, but today
I’m left pencilling them in as I drive across
tawny, featureless moorland. I’m bound
for the Magic Road, near the Mahon Falls,
where, it’s claimed, drivers find their cars
mysteriously rolling uphill when they take
their handbrake off. Fairies and magnetic
fields are the two explanations that have
IMAGE: ALAMY
most captured the popular imagination;
the real reason (an optical illusion) is rather
ABOVE: Colourful boats moored at more prosaic. In the misty drizzle, the
Helvick Head Pier mountains are hidden, the signs scant, the
IRELAND
sheep skittish. When I finally find the Magic
Road marker, I switch off the engine and
wait. Nothing happens. I curse, reverse, pray,
try again. The car jerks back a bit, but it’s so
rapid I can’t swear I didn’t imagine it.
Leaving the fairies to their tricks, I follow
the track that zigzags to the trailhead for the
Mahon Falls, a short stomp away over bog and
bracken. The plateau is rugged, whittled into
form by glacial erosion. When the fog draws
back like a theatre curtain, I fleetingly see
peaks rising ragged above moraine-streaked
slopes and the wildest of waterfalls. Columns
and spires of rock punch above boulders that
lie scattered across the land like a giant’s
marbles. This, perhaps, is the real magic.
Ireland’s oldest city, founded by Vikings
in 914, Waterford stands 11 miles to the east
of the Copper Coast. Its dashing Georgian
heart — built on the sparkle of its crystalware
industry — is located within its revamped
Viking Triangle cultural quarter. This is one
reason the Irish Times voted the city Best
Place to Live in Ireland in 2021; the Waterford
Greenway is the other. A 29-mile ramble along
a former railway line, this off-road cycling
and walking trail swings — via viaduct, castle
and tunnel — through the foothills of the
March 2022 107
IRELAND
Comeragh Mountains, emerging gleefully at
the seaside town of Dungarvan.
Guarding the southern entrance to
Waterford, the Hook Lighthouse has borne
witness to ferocious storms and waves of
invaders and fortune-seekers over the past
800 years, among them Oliver Cromwell, who
is thought to have coined the phrase ‘by hook
or by crook’ to describe how he intended to
take Waterford during the 1649 siege. They
call these boiling seas the ‘graveyard of a
thousand ships’, as it seems you can’t dip your
finger into them without pulling up a wreck.
I climb all 115 steps to the top of the
lighthouse for a view out to sea, but fog rolls
in, draping itself across the coast. After
descending, I walk along the foreshore, its
black shale thumped by the Atlantic and
veined with fossils 300 million years in the
making. I watch as vapour rolls around the
shadowy outline of the lighthouse, as if in
the drowsiness of a dream. It’s like an image
of a faded world. The Copper Coast that lies
beyond, to the west, remains something of
a secret, but for how much longer now the
spotlight is swinging this way?
108 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
ABOVE: Hook Lighthouse was founded
at Hook Head 800 years ago, making
it one of the oldest still-operational
lighthouses in the world
ESSENTIALS
COMERAGH MOUNTAINS
Rive
r Bla
ckwatTHE MAGIC ROAD Waterford
er
Visitor Centre
Dungarvan
COPPER COAST GARRARUS
SÓLÁS NA MARA UNESCO GEOPARK BEACH
Ferrypoint
Ardmore
C e l t i c IRELAND
S e a
Co. WATERFORD
5 miles
Getting there & around
Stena Line offers 14 weekly ferry
crossings between Fishguard and
Rosslare, with an average sailing time of
2h15m. Cork is the closest airport to the
Copper Coast. Ryanair and Aer Lingus
œ«iÀ>Ìiyˆ}…ÌÃvÀœ“>˜Õ“LiÀœv1
cities, including London and Edinburgh.
stenaline.co.uk ryanair.com
aerlingus.com
čÛiÀ>}iyˆ}…Ì̈“i\£…£x“°
Travellers will need their own set of
wheels to explore. Car hire is available
with Europcar in Waterford and with
Budget at the ferry port in Rosslare.
europcar.co.uk budget.ie
When to go
Southern Ireland’s weather can be
erratic, but conditions tend to be driest
and warmest from June to September,
with temperatures of up to 20C.
Winters can be wet and foggy,
averaging between 5C and 8C but
often feeling colder.
Places mentioned
Sólás Na Mara. solasnamara.ie
Cliff House Hotel. cliffhousehotel.ie
Blackwater Eco Tours.
blackwaterecotours.ie
Tannery. tannery.ie
Hook Lighthouse. hookheritage.ie
The Art Hand. thearthand.com
The Sea Gardener. theseagardener.com
Where to stay
Crew’s, Dungarvan. From €90 (£76).
crews.ie
IMAGE: ALAMY. ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER
More info
Copper Coast Global Geopark.
copper-coast.com
Visit Waterford. visitwaterford.com
Tourism Ireland. ireland.com
How to do it
SHEARINGS offers a Waterford and
Wexford for Solo Travellers tour, with
wÛi˜ˆ}…ÌÃœ˜Ài>˜`½ÃÜÕ̅i>ÃÌVœ>ÃÌ]
including coach transport,
accommodation and dinner, from £669
per person. shearings.com
VIETNAM WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS S C O T T S A LT

110 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 In the country’s north, Cát Bà emerges from the jade waters of Lan Ha Bay like a lost
world. This is a rugged jewel of an isle, dominated by prehistoric limestone and swathes
of thick jungle. Much of the island is protected as a national park, created in part to
preserve its incredible biodiversity. Yet beyond Cát Bà’s good looks and pristine natural
treasures, this is a living, working island, where fishermen ply the waters and travellers
come in search of adventurous pursuits and spectacular, golden sunsets

March 2022 111

VIETNAM

112 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 VIETNAM

Cát Bà is often a stop for

travellers exploring the famous
Halong Bay nearby, and while the
island is developing a tourism
scene of its own, fishing remains
an important local industry.
The majority of the local
fishermen don’t actually live on
Cát Bà itself, but reside on Cai
Beo, a purpose-built floating
village of 300 or so homes.
Almost all the residents depend
on the sea for their livelihood, be
it fishing or tending to the upkeep
of larger boats that ply the
surrounding waters.

March 2022 113

VIETNAM

A number of companies run boat trips in the area,

offering an inspiring way to discover this ancient
landscape, shaped over tens of millions of years by
the region’s tropical climate. While meandering
between islets, passengers pass tiny fishing villages
and secluded coves tucked between soaring
limestone cliffs that plunge into the sea.

114 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 VIETNAM

March 2022 115

VIETNAM

Paradise beaches aside, Cát Bà is

far from being a sleepy coastal
idyll. The island is a true
adventure playground, where
travellers can throw themselves
into land- and water-based
activities, from climbing and
hiking in the national park to
kayaking and standup
paddleboarding. Exploring the
island beneath the waves,
however, is a must: the crystal
clear waters are home to a
colourful array of marine life,
including dazzling corals.

116 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 VIETNAM

March 2022 117

VIETNAM

Cát Bà is home to the critically endangered golden-headed langur, also known as the Cát Bà langur. This
is one of the world’s rarest primates, with fewer than 70 individuals restricted to a rocky area of less than
eight square miles. Years of hunting depleted their numbers, but conservation efforts and the increased
protection of Cát Bà National Park have been important steps in ensuring the monkeys’ survival.

118 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 | PA I D C O N T E N T F O R T B I L I S I C I T Y H A L L

ALTERNATIVE TBILISI

Four top attractions

From Golden Age doorways to merchant-built mansions,
the Georgian capital is home to a plethora of little-explored
cultural and architectural gems

1 BEAUTIFUL MEDIEVAL BUILDINGS

Tbilisi’s landscape is an expression of
the city’s diversity: a tapestry of art nouveau
and neo-Moorish elements that reveals
centuries of Silk Road heritage. The Old
Town, known as the Kala district, is home
to the breathtaking fourth-century Narikala
Fortress. Head towards the Ateshgah
Zoroastrian Fire Temple and sixth-century
Anchiskhati Basilica, then walk the winding
alleys behind the ancient city wall.
3 COURTYARDS & MERCHANT HOUSES
Old Tbilisi is dotted with gardens,
wells, covered walkways and courtyards.
Elsewhere, mansions in the Sololaki and
Chugureti districts are treasure troves
of twisting iron staircases and ceramic
floor tiles, while the restored former home
of famous Georgian industrialist Erasti
Chavchanidze sports frescoes inspired by
the Georgian epic poem The Knight in the
Panther’s Skin.

2 BALCONIES & ART NOUVEAU DOORS

Old Tbilisi is home to a plethora of
florid balconies and lavish doorways.
Art nouveau elements appeared in the
city as early as the beginning of the 20th
century, and were augmented with local
flourishes, including wooden balconies. A
trip down Agmashenebeli Avenue in Neu-
Tiflis, a German colony that was absorbed
into the city in the 1820s, reveals a cast of
characterful portals.
4 ECLECTIC ARCHITECTURE
Tbilisi has worn many hats over the
centuries: Arab emirate, Iranian vassal,
Russian gubernia. The city’s architecture
— low, stone buildings with fluted balconies,
passages and internal courtyards — reflects
this mix. Charming, tumbledown houses
can be found on the winding alleys behind
ABOVE FROM TOP:
the old city wall. Sulphur baths and historic
buildings in Abanotubani
Follow on Instagram @travel.tbilisi district; an ornate staircase

R E A D M O R E O N L I N E AT N AT I O N A LG EO G R A P H I C .C O.U K / T R AV EL
 IMAGE: SUSANNE KREMER

120 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 CIT Y LIFE

HAVANA
Famous for its live music, performed in tattered theatres
and spilling from once-grand rum bars onto cobbled
streets, the Cuban capital is striking up the band again
after two years of restrictions. WORDS: UÁġĆäZÁƄäŅőű

March 2022 121

HAVANA
“I
t’s not so easy to find music right
now, but we might get lucky,” says
my guide, Mirvel Bravo, explaining
that tight Covid-19 restrictions have hushed
Havana, a city with a long and rich musical
tradition. I’d come chasing its sounds — the
Cuban capital is famous for the pedigree of
its singers, institutions like the Buena Vista
Social Club and a feeling that someone with
a guitar or trumpet might appear at any
moment. The pandemic had halted all of
that, but while most venues are still closed
when I visit, the situation seems to improve
and grow noisier by the hour. From day to
day, more bars and restaurants are reopening,
and others, seeing their neighbours take
a risk, are following suit. Bands are then
hastily assembled and installed inside.
Sitting on the edge of the busy Plaza Vieja,
La Vitrola — meaning ‘The Jukebox’ — was
one of the first to reopen its doors and strike
up the band. Mirvel and I take a seat at the
back, but we can hardly hear each other talk
as the noise of the bongo ricochets off the
walls and the high trill of a cornet competes
with a whirring ceiling fan. For the players,
some performing with their eyes shut in an
energetic rapture, the music looks as much
an exorcism as it does a concert.
La Vitrola, like many places around
Havana, is a tribute to another, more affluent
time, one of starched collars and bow ties, of
lavish neon signs and real Coca-Cola. Just
when was it, this golden era? Mirvel suggests
the 1950s, hesitantly. It strikes me that the
bar’s aesthetic might be reaching back to
an artful reconstruction of the past — part
saturated holiday postcard, part heavily
edited nostalgia — largely for the benefit of
travellers like me. But this much is clear:
Havana’s good old days belong to a period
that may or may not have ever truly existed,
but in any case exist no more.
“The country is emptying,” says Mirvel
of Cuba’s latest exodus. I hear laughter
and music and joy in Havana, but it’s
hard to ignore this sound — the sound of
122 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
disappointment — too. Between sanctions
arbitrarily reimposed by President Trump
in his final days of office and the dreadful
winds of the pandemic, Cuba has suffered
as much as any country over the past two
years. I’d worried that the timing of my
visit was ill-judged, but to hear Havana’s
raucousness returning instead feels like a
strange kind of privilege.
Back out on the street, the sounds of
hawkers mingle with the voices of guides
leading group tours. Mirvel leads me around
the city centre’s historic heart, first to the
armoury museum, then down towards the
250-year-old baroque cathedral. He explains
Cuba’s singular history and curious standing
in the world today with a humour that
disguises deeper anxieties. “Now we don’t
say you are unemployed, but that you are
available,” he says at one point. I can sense
the grin under his mask. I’ve been in the city
for fewer than 24 hours, but I find myself
already nodding understandingly when he
adds: “Cuba is a complicated country.”
The sunny days roll past, the temperature
oscillating microscopically between
comfortable and optimal. Drivers stand
next to their resplendent classic American
cars, vividly painted behemoths as polished
and handsome as at any point in the
past 60 years. The revolution made the
import and sale of new cars impossible,
so this remarkable fleet has been frozen
in time. Most of their owners offer private
CLOCKWISE FROM
tours around the city, with prices wildly TOP: Locals sitting on
negotiable, but rather than play that game, a street corner, Old
IMAGES: KAV DADFAR; SUSANNE KREMER
I sign up with an organised tour called Havana; a cigar smoker
Havana Nights. on the streets of Old
The city hums in the daytime, but it really Havana; a narrow street
comes alive after dark. I meet my guide, with brightly painted
Ivan Franko, at my hotel and we walk out buildings in Old Havana
PREVIOUS PAGES:
into the cool air to meet our driver and
Catedral de San
his convertible 1958 Ford Fairlane. Of all
Cristóbal, an 18th-
the noises in Havana, I’m not sure there’s century baroque house
anything more satisfying than hearing that of worship that once
V8 engine start — and not just hearing it, housed Christopher
but feeling it reverberate through the car’s Columbus’s remains
 HAVANA

March 2022 123

HAVANA

Q&A with
Rolando
Fernández
González, barman
at El Floridita
HOW MUCH RUM DO YOU GET
THROUGH IN A DAY?
Normally about 40 bottles of
three-year-old Havana Club.
white leather seats, which are like saddles restrictions were recently eased. “Before the
Our most popular drinks are, of
course, daiquiris, so we need to on a great gurgling monster below. pandemic, it was all foreigners here,” says
use quite a lot of rum. We drive the chaotic streets to Plaza Ivan. “But now, look, it’s mostly Cubans. It
de la Revolución. Above, colossal visages makes me feel a little emotional.”
DO PEOPLE ORDER ANYTHING of the movement peer down on us — the When it fi nally comes, the sound — violent
OTHER THAN DAIQUIRIS? globally recognised face of Che Guevara and overwhelming — makes some children
Well, thanks to Hemingway, looking grimly towards a future he couldn’t cry, the shock of the blast quivering in their
there’s a big focus on the daiquiri,
possibly have predicted, and other, lesser- little chests. Yet the main reaction is nervous
but really our mojitos are pretty
known figures, too. There is an undeniable laughter, both at the awesome noise and
good, too. Some people just
order beers, though.
weirdness in trying to meet their gaze from the knowledge that things are gradually
the back of such an ostentatiously American becoming more normal in Havana.
WHERE ARE MOST OF YOUR car, but by now I’m starting to understand a
GUESTS FROM? little of Havana’s endemic strangeness. OLD HAVANA
It depends. At the moment, we On we drive, north through the Havana Back in the old town, I take to the streets.
don’t get so many Americans, but Tunnel, that delicious V8 ripping, roaring, Mewing cats cast long shadows in the amber
there are quite a lot of Canadians
reverberating up its walls. On the north streetlight, while the curiously mournful
and some Europeans. We get
shore we emerge next to Fortaleza de San sounds of a wandering tamale seller swirl
many Russians, too — it’s easy for
them to visit Cuba and they like
Carlos de la Cabaña, a vast 18th-century around tattered, Spanish-era buildings.
it in winter when it’s cold in their fort complex that was built as a paranoid There are hustlers selling impossible
home country. response by Spanish colonialists who’d bargains, the almost imperceptible sounds
temporarily lost the island to a sneak attack of fist bumps signifying an agreement
IMAGES: KAV DADFAR; SUSANNE KREMER

ARE MANY OF THEM EXPERTS
ON HEMINGWAY?
I’m not sure. I think a lot of them
just want to try to drink like him
and people don’t talk so much
about the books.
El Floridita is located at the corner
of Obispo and Monserrate streets
in Old Havana
by invading British forces. Six months after
the Spanish were ousted from the island,
they traded Florida to get it back.
Today the fort is still occupied by the
Cuban army. Young recruits, many of them
doing their national service, perform a
bombastic ritual while dressed in 18th-
century uniform at 9pm every night. Ivan
and I are joined by about 100 others on the
ramparts, a crowd gathered to hear the
cannon fi re for only the second time since
reached. On the bustling Obispo Street, as
well as offers for cigars and rum, it feels as if
I get 100 invitations to different restaurants
— all of which I ignore to instead watch a
couple dancing on their balcony to a radio
playing Bob Marley’s Is This Love.
I push on and reach El Floridita, the
self-titled ‘cradle of the daiquiri’, where
the overwhelming sound is the industrial
grind of blenders crushing ice. Many writers
drank here over the years, but none more

124 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 HAVANA

Rum revolution //
Bacardi was originally
headquartered in
Havana, but left after
the revolution when the
company’s properties
ūäŅäʼnäĆŹäà͠ƋäƇŅġΎʼn
beautiful art deco
building still stands, but
àĩĢΎőäŰłäÚőőĩƇĢàÁĢű
of its rum in local bars

Hats and souvenirs for

sale in Old Havana
LEFT: El Floridita bar, a
famous haunt of writer
Ernest Hemingway that
serves daiquiri cocktails

March 2022 125

HAVANA
infamously than Ernest Hemingway.
‘Papa’ not only downed daiquiris in this
200-year-old bar, but loudly endorsed the
place — marketing that its management still
uses today. Ordinarily packed with tourists
looking to have a cocktail in the manner
of one of the 20th century’s most famous
drinkers, I find only a handful of people
inside, although this includes Hemingway
himself, cast in bronze, propping up the bar.
With Havana only just reopening, its
ordinarily booming music scene is working
on word-of-mouth recommendations. I feel
very lucky, then, to hear about a Haydée
Milanés concert at the Eclectico restaurant
to the west of the city centre. The daughter
of the celebrated Cuban singer-songwriter
Pablo Milanés, Haydée is an established
artist in her own right who’d be capable of
pulling in a good crowd on any night. But,
under the circumstances — almost two years
with no live music — her intimate, open-air
set seems to take on extra meaning. She
seems to sing as if it’s significant, too. The
wonderful sound of her voice is captured and
amplified by a decorative parasol, while her
neck strains towards the most sublime notes.
By the time Saturday comes, Havana is
almost back in full swing. On Plaza Vieja, the
126 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
madly popular Cerveceria lifts the shutters Wheels of time //
and is instantly busy. Dozens of tables spill
out onto the old square, a three-piece band ƋäŅäÁŅäőĂĩŖúĂőőĩ
performing for tips in between them. While
this ragtag group work the tables, I order ÙäÁʼnġÁĢűÁʼn̤̞̞̞̞͡
a cab to head out to one of Havana’s iconic
venues, the undying Tropicana Club.
ŪĆĢőÁúäÚÁŅʼnĩĢőĂä
The Second World War had just begun in ʼnőŅääőʼnĩùDÁŪÁĢÁ͠
Europe as this venue was opening its grand
doors in a private estate in the Marianao ʼnέūäěěÁʼnőĂäùÁġĩŖʼn
neighbourhood. Then, as now, its al fresco
stage hosted an unabashedly glamorous
”‡ÙŅÁĢàʼn͡äŰłäÚő
cabaret night under palm trees. It’s őĩέʼnääέ‡ĩŪĆäőÁĢà
particularly satisfying that in Tropicana
the drinks really are free — a half bottle ĂĆĢäʼnäġÁŅńŖäʼn
of complimentary rum, depending on the
ticket you’ve booked — and, for the time
you’re inside at least, it feels as if there’s
enough for everyone.
I’m seated right next to the stage in
intimidating proximity to the dancers.
Everyone in the place is transfixed by the
performers. Their legs kick high, their hips
turn to liquid. Sequins shimmer in the night
sky like an aurora. Smiles are tacked taut
like guy ropes. The drums are infectious, the FROM LEFT: A street scene from the so-
clapping relentless. The problems beyond called ‘Art District’ of Old Havana; two
the club’s walls haven’t gone away, but for freshly made mojitos sit on the old bar
now, they’re just noise. inside La Bodeguita del Medio
IMAGES: SUSANNE KREMER; JAMIE LAFFERTY
 HAVANA

INSIDER TIPS

To get the best exchange rates,

take US dollars or euros in cash.
Many ATMs don’t work and very
few restaurants or bars accept
payment by card.

Agree all taxi prices before

starting your journey.

It’s necessary to obtain a tourist

card before arriving in Cuba. Your
tour agency will help organise this
for you.

Internet access requires buying

scratch cards, which are available
in some shops and most hotels.
Some individual bars may also
offer complimentary access for
their patrons.

14 hours in
HAVANA
10AM
PAY HOMAGE TO HEMINGWAY
As with almost everywhere the pugnacious
writer lived, Havana has preserved as much
evidence of Ernest Hemingway’s life as
possible. On the outskirts of the city, his old
home at Finca La Vigía is now a museum,
large parts of which have been kept as they
were when he left to return to the US for the
final time in 1960. As well as the house, there
are lush grounds with an outdoor swimming
pool, Hemingway’s old boat, the Pilar, and a
gift shop, of course. en.hemingwayhavana.com
11.30AM
VISIT THE THEATRE
There are many grand buildings here, but
perhaps none quite so resplendent as the
gleaming white Gran Teatro de la Habana
Alicia Alonso, designed in a neo-baroque
style by Belgian architect Paul Belau. Check
local listings for performances or simply take
a tour. A home for ballet, opera and classical
music concerts, it was originally built in the
19th century, then significantly expanded and
improved in 1914. If you’re looking for classic
cars, there are always some parked outside.
1PM
SIP A MOJITO
If you want to keep following Hemingway, it’s
time for a drink. When it comes to cocktails
— and especially mojitos — all roads lead
to La Bodeguita del Medio. Hemingway
allegedly loved the mojitos here and the
bar displays a supposedly handwritten
sign claiming as much. In recent years the
owners have conceded that his statement is a
forgery, but the mojitos are very real. There’s
a restaurant out back serving dishes like
Creole-style fish if you want to grab lunch.
labodeguitarestaurant.restaurantwebx.com
3PM
CHECK OUT THE ART
By now it’ll have been impossible to ignore
how creative Havana is, whether that’s music
or street art. To see the artistic process up
close, visit the Taller Experimental de Gráfica,
just off the 18th-century Plaza de la Catedral.
In here, local painters and sculptors will
be hard at work near a gallery where their
pieces are available to buy. If you can’t find
a souvenir you like, there’s an authentic rum
and cigar shop just outside. cubarte.cult.cu

March 2022 127

HAVANA
ÕL]
>˜>`>
6PM
KICK OFF THE EVENING
°-Փ“iÀ“œ˜Ì…ÃLÀˆ˜}
Sunset is a fine time to be in Plaza Vieja.
With locals knocking off from work and
musicians limbering up for a night of
entertainment, there’s a feeling of electricity
in the air. Unlike much of the rest of the
,
,°1-/,č/" \" *1
,
city, the old square has been tidied up and
restored to something like its fabulous best.
If you’re looking for food nearby, Mojito
Mojito, just off the main square, has a range
of traditional Cuban dishes and Habanero
specialities, as well as the titular drink, of
course. mojito-mojito.com
ÕL>°Ìãä‡`>Þ/œVœÀœÀœ\,Փ>˜`
8PM
ˆi˜vÕi}œÃ]>Ã
CROWDS AND CANNON FIRE
If you’re hoping to get up close to the mighty
cannon on the ramparts of La Cabaña, be
\-1-č
sure to arrive well before the fuse is lit at
ÕL>˜̜ÕÀˆÃÌV>À`]ÌÀ>˜ÃviÀÃ]}œœ`
9pm. Competition for the best vantage points
can be fierce, but even if you miss out, the
128 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
views across to the twinkling lights of the
capital city are fantastic. The procession
begins at around 8.30pm, with young
soldiers theatrically stomping around their
base in traditional uniforms and loudly
boasting of the greatness of their nation.
9.30PM
TAKE A LATE-NIGHT STROLL
To get a sense of a less formal Havana after
dark, head down to its lively promenade,
the Malecón. Every night — and especially
at weekends — you’ll find gatherings of
Habaneros here watching the sunset,
listening to the cannon being fired from
across the water and gossiping until late.
Aspiring musicians also spend time here
and are known to lead sing-alongs with the
crowds. If you’re in this area earlier in the
day, you can also check out the Castillo de
San Salvador de la Punta, an original 16th-
century Spanish fort.
LEFT:ÕÈVˆ>˜Ã«>Þˆ˜>Û>˜>
>L>Àˆ˜"`>Û>˜>
ESSENTIALS
G u l f o f
Havana
M e x i c o
CUBA
Caribbean Sea Fortaleza de San Carlos
de la Cabaña
M a le cón
Plaza
El Floridita Vieja
CENTRAL OLD
HAVANA HAVANA
H A V A N A
Plaza de la Revolucion
Necrópolis Cristóbal Colón 1/4 mile
Getting there & around
LiÀˆ>œvviÀÃÀi}Տ>Àyˆ}…ÌÃvÀœ“
i>̅ÀœÜۈ>>`Àˆ`]܅ˆičˆÀÀ>˜Vi
yˆiÃۈ>*>ÀˆÃ°čÌiÀ˜>̈ÛiÞ]čˆÀ
œvviÀÃÀœÕÌiÃۈ>/œÀœ˜Ìœ°č“iÀˆV>˜
čˆÀˆ˜iÃyˆiÃۈ>ˆ>“ˆ]̅œÕ}…ÀœÕÌiÃ
ۈ>̅i1->ÀiÃÕLiVÌ̜V…>˜}i°
iberia.com airfrance.com
aircanada.com aa.com
čÛiÀ>}iyˆ}…Ì̈“i\£x…Î䓰
"`>Û>˜>ˆÃˆ`i>ÞiÝ«œÀi`œ˜vœœÌ]
LÕÌV>ÃÈVV>ÀÃ>˜`LˆVÞViÌ>݈Ã>Ài
܈`iÞ>Û>ˆ>LivœÀœ˜}iÀœÕÀ˜iÞð i
ÃÕÀi̜˜i}œÌˆ>Ìi«ÀˆViÃ>…i>`œv̈“i]
œÀÌ>Ž̜ޜÕÀ…œÌi>LœÕÌ«Ài‡LœœŽˆ˜}°
When to go
/…iLiÃÌ̈“i̜ۈÈ̈ÃvÀœ“ œÛi“LiÀ
̜>ÀV…]܅i˜…Õ“ˆ`ˆÌވÏœÜ>˜`̅i
Ìi“«iÀ>ÌÕÀi…œÛiÀÃ>ÀœÕ˜`>
Vœ“vœÀÌ>LiÓx
՘Vœ“vœÀÌ>LÞ…œÌÜi>̅iÀ>˜`]>ÌiÀˆ˜
̅iÃi>ܘ]̅iÀˆÃŽœv…ÕÀÀˆV>˜ið
Where to stay
œ˜Ìi…iÀ“œÃœ]"`>Û>˜>°Àœ“
Ë£ÓÈ] E °marques-de-cardenas-
montehermoso.havana-hotels.net
>`iÀœ E ]"`>Û>˜>°Àœ“ËÈä]
E °maderobnb.com
How to do it
JOURNEY LATIN AMERICA offers
Ì>ˆœÀ‡“>`iÌÀˆ«Ã>˜`}ÀœÕ«̜ÕÀÃ̜
,iۜṎœ˜«>VŽ>}iۈÈÌÃŽiÞ
>ÌÌÀ>V̈œ˜Ãˆ˜/Àˆ˜ˆ`>`]
/iÀÀ>â>Ã>˜`6ˆš>iÃ]>˜`ëi˜`ÃvœÕÀ
˜ˆ}…ÌȘ…ˆÃ̜ÀˆV>Û>˜>°/…iÌÀˆ«VœÃÌÃ
č
ËÎ]È{£«iÀ«iÀܘ>˜`ˆ˜VÕ`iÃyˆ}…ÌÃ]
“ˆ`‡À>˜}i…œÌiÃœ˜> E L>ÈÃ>˜`
iÝVÕÀȜ˜Ã°journeylatinamerica.co.uk
 CIT Y LIFE

BRISTOL
Z
ZZ

;ŅĩġŅŖĢäěΎʼnúĩŅúäͿʼnłÁĢĢĆĢúÙŅĆàúäőĩőĂäúŅÁƅőĆͿĆĢėäà
ÙÁŅʼnĩù‡őĩėäʼnŅĩùő͡ŅĆʼnőĩěĆʼnÁÚĆőűőĂÁőʼnäŅŪäʼnŖłĆĢàĆäʼnłĆŅĆő
ÁĢàěÁĆàͿÙÁÚė©äʼnőĩŖĢőŅűÁőġĩʼnłĂäŅäĆĢäńŖÁěġäÁʼnŖŅä
WORDS:UÁÚė€ÁěùŅäűPHOTOGRAPHS:Wűġ<ŅĆġʼnĂÁū

130 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
I
f you take a stroll along Bristol’s central Corn Street,
keeping your gaze far above the vintage clothing stalls
and wooden tables stacked with second-hand books,
you’ll catch sight of the striking red-and-white clockface
that adorns the Grade I-listed Corn Exchange building,
once used by merchants to trade their wares.
Take a second to study the 19th-century clock, and
you’ll notice it has two minute hands. The faster is set
to Greenwich Mean Time, Britain’s legal standardised
time since 1880, while the slower maintains traditional
Bristol Mean Time, which — based on the point when
the sun is at its highest in the sky — historically runs
10 minutes behind London. An apt metaphor, some
might say, for how Bristol has always taken pride in
setting itself apart from the crowd.
Growing up in nearby Cardiff, Bristol’s cross-border
cousin just 25 miles away, my teenage years were spent
listening to animated tales of burgeoning Bristol music
festivals (such as the now-annual Love Saves the Day)
and all-night skatepark raves (the humble beginnings of
iconic Bristol nightclub Motion). Bristol, clearly, was the
most exciting place on the planet.
And even now, seeing it with an adult eye, the city
maintains an undeniable aura of cool. Permanently
on the cusp of the latest trends, or actually setting
them, this is a place where street-art-smattered lanes
and former-warehouse-turned-tap rooms turn out an
impressively diverse food scene where visitors can have
lunch in an authentic Italian deli and enjoy dinner in a
shipping container styled like a Tokyo izakaya bar.
But Bristol’s identity permeates far deeper than its
proclivity for hipster food dens or its love of a good
party. Fuelled by a large and vocal student population,
the former industrial port city has become a stronghold
for counterculture and activism in the UK, particularly
around environmentalism, which has fostered a city-
wide eco-conscious ethos that led to Bristol becoming
the first European Green Capital in Britain back in 2015.
And, of course, civil rights: a protest drew the world’s
gaze in 2020, when a prominent statue of merchant
and slave trader Edward Colston was pulled down and
thrown into the city’s harbour.
Whether you find yourself at home in the stylish
tearooms of Clifton Village or the low-key boozers of
Stokes Croft, there’s a sense that Bristol is happy doing
things its own way, forging its own path and, dare I say
it, ticking along at its own pace.

March 2022 131

BRISTOL
SEE AND DO
M SHED: The large, free-to-enter
museum provides the perfect introduction
to Bristol, with intriguing artefacts including
wartime posters and Tudor-era treasure
hoards bringing to life the city’s history, and
insights from local people shedding light on
the Bristol of today. Don’t miss the brilliant
21st Century Kids exhibit, where young
Bristolians answer probing questions, from
‘What’s your passion?’ to ‘Do you dance?’
bristolmuseums.org.uk/m-shed
CLIFTON OBSERVATORY: A number of spots
vie for the title of Bristol’s best view, but the
panorama from Clifton Observatory, looking
down on Clifton Suspension Bridge, is hard
to top. The 18th-century stone structure
is home to a functioning, 200-year-old
camera obscura, which provides a magnified
perspective of the surrounding Avon Gorge.
However, many visitors find the views from
the observatory’s well-stocked rooftop bar
equally appealing. cliftonobservatory.com
ST NICHOLAS MARKET: Even those not
planning on loosening their purse strings
will feel the tug of vibrant St Nicks. Dating
back to 1743, this huge indoor-outdoor
market in the city centre is home to Bristol’s
largest collection of independent retailers,
with street food vendors, record stores,
indie T-shirt makers and even a ‘hot sauce
emporium’ lining the tangle of narrow
indoor laneways, which spill out into the
surrounding streets. bristol.gov.uk
132 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
BANKSY STREET ART: The identity of satirical
graffiti artist Banksy may be shrouded in
mystery but what’s certain is that Bristol
has claimed the father of modern street art
as its prodigal son. The celebrated stencilist
has left his mark all over the walls of what’s
believed to be his hometown. Easy-to-see
works include Mild, Mild West, an early
mural that depicts a teddy bear attacking riot
police on Stokes Croft road, and Well Hung
Lover, showing a naked man dangling from
a window above a former sexual health clinic
on Frogmore Street. visitbristol.co.uk
LOCAL THEATRE: London may have the
West End, but Bristol is home to the
oldest continually running theatre in the
English-speaking world. Bristol Old Vic
hosts everything from Shakespeare to
experimental shorts in its beautiful Grade
I-listed auditorium. For more avant-garde
works, try the Loco Klub, housed in the
tunnels beneath Temple Meads station, or,
for something a little lighter, head to the
Improv Theatre in Clifton. bristololdvic.org.uk
locoklub.com improvtheatre.co.uk
BRISTOL LIDO: First welcoming swimmers
in 1850, visitors can still bathe in Victorian
splendour with a refreshing dip at this
gorgeous courtyard-enclosed, open-
air pool (pre-booking essential). Those
who don’t fancy diving in can lap up the
serene surrounds from the lido’s excellent
Mediterranean-themed restaurant.
lidobristol.com
Nine lives //
A stray tabby named
Tom became such a
beloved member of the
congregation of Bristol’s
‡ő`ÁŅűƒäàÚěĆƄä
Church that he was
given a full funeral
service on his death
in 1927. A small plaque
to Tom can still be
found in the church’s
grounds today
FROM LEFT: Cafe at Bristol Old Vic Theatre,
famous for its Grade I-listed auditorium;
Bristol’s Victorian-era lido, opened in 1850
PREVIOUS PAGES: Clifton Suspension Bridge
spanning the Avon Gorge and River Avon,
designed by Isambard Kingdom Brunel

LIKE A LOCAL
20TH CENTURY FLICKS: Located
beneath the zigzagging fairy lights of
Christmas Steps laneway, the endearingly
ramshackle 20th Century Flicks is one of the
UK’s last surviving video rental stores, with
more than 18,000 titles in stock. More useful
for tourists, however, is the shop’s teeny-
tiny in-house cinema, which can be booked
for private use by groups of up to 10 people.
20thcenturyflicks.co.uk
BRISTOL CATHEDRAL CHORAL EVENSONG:
If you need some respite from the buzz of
Bristol’s busy streets, pop inside the city’s
mighty, gothic-style cathedral during
the Choral Evensong (sung prayers), that
happens most days at 5.15pm. Even those
with no religious faith will find the sounds
of the organ reverberating around the grand
hall incredibly soothing. Intriguingly, the
cathedral also sells its own gin.
bristol-cathedral.co.uk
REDCLIFFE CAVES: Hidden beneath the
surface of the city, the man-made Redcliffe
Caves were originally dug to mine sandstone
in the Middle Ages. Today, the atmospheric
tunnels are opened to the public for special
events, including a series of spooky film
screenings put on by the Bristol Film Festival
during Halloween. bristolfilmfestival.com
BRISTOL
BUY
BRISTOL BLUE GLASS: Glassblowing
has been prevalent in Bristol since the 18th
century (when the city was home to 60
glassworks), and today The Original Bristol
Blue Glass Company continues to create
beautiful, teal-tinged glass ornaments
and jewellery using the same antiquated
technique. Lessons in this traditional craft
are also offered at the company’s studio.
bristol-glass.co.uk
STOKES CROFT CHINA: Perhaps the perfect
Bristol souvenir, Stokes Croft China’s
humorous mugs are designed by local artists
and emblazoned with alt-political messaging
like ‘f**k austerity’ and ‘boycott Tesco’. Sales
from the shop, which also stocks posters and
— less conventional — decorated toilets, go
towards funding local community projects.
prscshop.co.uk
GUILBERTS CHOCOLATES: The world’s first
solid chocolate bar was created in Bristol
back in 1847, but today only one independent
chocolate-maker remains in the city.
Delighting customers for more than 100
years, Guilberts Chocolates still crafts its
sweet treats using age-old methods, with
every chocolate hand-dipped before being
sold out of its Victorian shopfront on Small
Street. guilbertschocolates.co.uk
March 2022 133
BRISTOL

134 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

Daredevils //
ƋäƇŅʼnőŅäÚĩŅàäà
ġĩàäŅĢÙŖĢúääĔŖġł
ūÁʼnŖĢàäŅőÁėäĢùŅĩġ
őĂäěĆùőĩĢ‡ŖʼnłäĢʼnĆĩĢ
ŅĆàúäĆĢ̧̧̟̥Ùű
ġäġÙäŅʼnĩùgŰùĩŅà
”ĢĆŪäŅʼnĆőűΎʼn#ÁĢúäŅĩŖʼn
‡łĩŅőʼněŖÙ
ABOVE: Seasonal roast leek, Sinodun
ˆV…iiÃi]ÌÀÕvyi>˜`iÀÕÃ>i“
artichoke crisps at Box-E restaurant
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: View of
,i`VˆvvivÀœ“ ÀˆÃ̜½ÃÀi`iÛiœ«i`
>ÀLœÕÀÈ`i]…œ“i̜}>iÀˆiÃ>˜`
µÕ>ÞÈ`ii>ÌiÀˆiÃÆ >˜ŽÃÞ½Ã/…iˆÀ
܈̅̅i*ˆiÀVi`
>À`ÀՓ]}À>wÌ̈i`ˆ˜ pan-European dishes, from Brixham scallops
Albion Dockyard in 2014; Sonny Stores,
ÃiÀۈ˜}Ì>ˆ>˜v>Àiˆ˜-œÕ̅ۈi
EAT
BABA GANOUSH KITCHEN: It may
serve what it terms ‘Jerusalem falafel’, but
this beloved cafe could hardly feel more
Bristolian. Wonderfully low-key (it’s set in
the shadow of the A4032) and plastered
in street art, this neighbourhood spot in St
Pauls is encircled by a handful of wooden
tables, where everyone from students to
pensioners grapple with the hefty, heavenly
wraps. facebook.com/babaganoushbristol
SONNY STORES: Having previously
worked as sous chef at one of Bristol’s best-
loved Italians (Pasta Ripiena, also highly
recommended), Pegs Quinn opened Sonny
Stores with his wife Mary Glynn following
the lockdown in 2020. Sitting on a pretty
residential street in Southville, the welcome
here is generous and the seasonal Italian
cuisine — the homemade stuffed pasta in
particular — is gorgeous. sonnystores.com
BOX-E: Like many top chefs in Bristol,
Elliot cut his teeth in the high-pressure
kitchens of London, before leaving the
Big Smoke to open BOX-E: a fine dining
restaurant housed in a renovated shipping
container in the trendy, new Wapping Wharf
development. The pint-sized venue plates up
With regular events, including themed
to hangar steak, best sampled via the seven-
course tasting menu. boxebristol.com
BRISTOL
AFTER HOURS
THE CORONATION TAP: England’s
West Country is famed for its cider
production, and the wood-walled, wood-
floored Cori Tap, as it’s affectionately
known, is purportedly the oldest cider
house in Bristol. It’s one of those pubs
where everyone seems to have a story
about, usually featuring the venue’s very
own (very strong) Exhibition cider which,
rather sensibly, is served only in half pints.
thecoronationtap.com
THEKLA: Bristol offers live music in pubs,
clubs and parks, but for sheer quirkiness,
nothing can compete with Thekla, a
gig venue on an old German cargo ship
permanently docked in Bristol’s harbour.
Everyone from blues guitarists to up-
and-coming indie bands take to the ship’s
small stage to rock the boat most evenings.
theklabristol.co.uk
THE MILK THISTLE: The Bristol speakeasy
everyone can’t stop talking about, The Milk
Thistle hides behind a big black door right
in the city centre. Spread across four floors,
the aesthetic is meticulously sculpted (all red
leather sofas and twinkling chandeliers) and
the custom-made cocktails expertly crafted.
parties and gin tastings, it’s an unmissable
night out. milkthistlebristol.com
March 2022 135
BRISTOL
Z SLEEP
ZZ
TOWED TOWN CAMPING: Set in a
warehouse just a short walk from Temple
Meads station, Towed Town Camping offers
the joys of a British caravan holiday in the
great outdoors, indoors. Guests bed down in
one of six kitschy-cool caravans, with fairy
lights dangling overhead and artificial grass
underfoot. towedtowncamping.com
ARTIST RESIDENCE: The long-awaited
Bristol outpost of the trendy Artist
Residence hotel brand finally opened in
a Grade-I listed former boot factory in
Stokes Croft. Its 10 different room categories
range from Broom Cupboard doubles to
the Artist Suite. Breakfast is taken in the
Library bar, with a downstairs hangout
space and kitchen due to open later this year.
artistresidence.co.uk
HOTEL DU VIN BRISTOL AVON GORGE:
As a spa and hydropathic centre in the
Victorian era, the Avon Gorge attracted
aristocrats from around the country, and,
in its current iteration as a Du Vin-branded
hotel, this Clifton mainstay has a similar
allure. Its plush rooms all provide premier
views over the gorge and suspension bridge,
which non-guests can enjoy from the
adjoining White Lion pub. hotelduvin.com
136 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
ESSENTIALS
1/4 mile
UNITED
KINGDOM
LONDON
Bristol
Stokes Croft
Bristol Lido
Clifton Observatory B R I S T O L
Corn Street
Clifton Suspension Bridge
St Nicholas Market
Bristol Cathedral
Temple Meads station
THE DOCKS Thekla
o M Shed
River Av n
Getting there & around
Bristol’s Temple Meads railway station,
connected to the Great Western Railway
network, is accessible from most of the UK
including direct services to London
Paddington (journey time: 1h35m), and
Cardiff Central (50m).
Bristol Airport has both domestic
and international services. It’s accessed
by the A1 bus and the journey time into
central Bristol is 35m.
Central Bristol is fairly compact and easy to
navigate on foot, albeit hilly in places.
Alternatively, visitors can hire bikes from
numerous places including Bristol Electric
ˆŽiˆÀi°œÀœÕÀ˜iÞÃvÕÀ̅iÀ>wi`]̅i
bus is your best bet. Number 8 connects
ABOVE: Artist Residence
Temple Meads and Clifton. Consider a day
opened in 2021 in pass (£6) if making multiple journeys across
a former boot factory a 24-hour period. bristolbikehire.co.uk
on Portland Square wÀÃÌLÕðVœ°ÕŽ
When to go
With its westerly Atlantic-facing location,
any time of year can be rainy, but spring and
autumn are likely to offer good weather.
Several festivals, including the Bristol
International Balloon Fiesta, can make a
summer visit appealing. In November and
December, the Broadmead section of the
city is taken over by a huge Christmas
market. Be sure to wrap up warmly as
temperatures can drop to freezing.
More info
Visit Bristol. visitbristol.co.uk.
Pocket Guide to Bath, Bristol & The
Southwest, Lonely Planet, £7.99
Banksy’s Bristol: Home Sweet Home by
Richard Jones, Tangent Books, £15
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER
How to do it
GRAFTœvviÀ}À>vẅ‡Ì…i“i`Ü>Žˆ˜}̜ÕÀÃ
and art workshops, focusing on Banksy’s
legacy. graftworkshop.co.uk
Rooms at ARTIST RESIDENCE range
from Broom Cupboard doubles from
£95 to the Artist Suite from £275.
artistresidence.co.uk
| P A I D C O N T E N T F O R F O O D A N D D R I N K WA L E S

ST DAVID’S DAY

A recipe for change

Make a difference and celebrate Wales this year by visiting the shops, farms
and cafes of the country’s most resourceful and passionate producers

T 1
he Welsh food and drink scene has
never been more exciting — and
that’s real cause for celebration
on St David’s Day. One look at
the country’s fertile pastures, forests and
vast coastline reveals why: exceptional
produce, ingredients sourced with care and
an eye for provenance, natural flavours and
WELSH HOMESTEAD SMOKERY,
CEREDIGION
Where the gentle, rolling hills of Ceredigion
meet the higher peaks of the Cambrian
Mountains, Claire and Chris Jesse deliver
‘smoky food magic’ at their small-batch,
sustainably minded artisan smokery in
the Welsh sticks. Their cold-smoked bacon,
2
CRWST, CARDIGAN
In castle-topped Cardigan in west
Wales, Osian and Catrin Jones hand-bake
and shape artisan breads using traditional
methods and pure ingredients: organic
Shipton Mill flour, water, salt and organic
yeast. Inspired by extensive travels in
France, they ditched their day jobs a few
IMAGES: GETTY; PETERSTON TEA; PEMBROKESHIRE LAMB

sustainability. Now producers are putting
Wales firmly on the gastro map by foraging
and fermenting, farming and fishing, and
mixing back-to-the-roots tradition with
creative flair. Excelling in everything from
single-estate tea to meadow-fed hogget,
each of these rising stars has a unique and
surprising story to tell. You can order their
goods online, but for a true taste of Wales,
nothing beats visiting in person. Here are
four businesses to watch.
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Wild flowers on the
Pembrokeshire coast; a soothing cup of Peterston’s green
tea; farm-to-plate fare; Pembrokeshire lamb
beef and lamb, as well as UK-grown smoked
chillies, smoked chilli jams and flavoured
smoked salts, are full of intense, natural
flavours. Book a workshop on their farmstead
or visit to learn how to use smoke and fire to
cook and preserve.
DON’T MISS: The signature smoked lamb
bacon: a miniature rasher of cured lamb,
flavoured with Pembrokeshire honey and
smoked gently over wood.
TRY IT: The smoked meats feature
regularly on the menu at Michelin-starred
restaurant Sosban & The Old Butchers on
Anglesey. You can also buy the products
online and at local delis and food fairs.
welshsmokery.co.uk
years ago to follow their dreams by setting
up this micro-bakery and cafe. Brunches
make the most of terrific local produce in
the likes of creamy truffle mushrooms on
sourdough toast with poached egg, Welsh
bacon and smashed avocado. But you’ll also
want to save room for the cakes and pastries
that flake just so.
DON’T MISS: Christmassy cinnamon swirls
and zingy lemon-curd doughnuts that taste
like summer.
TRY IT: Visit the cafe, bistro and deli in
Cardigan to taste the signature breads and
warming, flavourful dishes, or order a bake-
at-home kit.
crwst.cymru/crwst-cardigan
 | P A I D C O N T E N T F O R F O O D A N D D R I N K WA L E S

3 PETERSTON TEA ESTATE, VALE OF GLAMORGAN

It takes guts and foresight to look at the Vale of
Glamorgan’s drizzly hills and think ‘tea plantation’. But
Lucy George did just that in 2013, when she pinned her
aspirations on growing from seed the first handcrafted,
single-estate tea in Wales. Using an ethical agroforestry
approach, Lucy helped those tiny seeds to bloom into richly
aromatic teas. Mellow and smooth, the estate’s single-batch
black, green and oolong teas have done phenomenally well
at the Great Taste Awards.
DON’T MISS: Pale amber Lloer Moon Oolong tea, with notes
of milk chocolate and jammy tropical fruits.
TRY IT: Fortnum & Mason stocks Peterston teas. This year
there are plans to open the farm for visits and host courses
covering growing, picking and processing.
peterstontea.com

4 PEMBROKESHIRE LAMB
Steve and Kara Lewis hit the ground
running when they set up a 100-acre
farm in north Pembrokeshire in 2019.
Following a slow, conservation-focused
‘fresh is best’ mantra, their meltingly
tender Pembrokeshire lamb tastes of the
surrounding hills and spring meadows lush
with grass, clover and herbs. Sheep are free
to graze naturally on their farm, and meat is
hung for longer — up to two weeks for hogget
and mutton — to develop its full-bodied
flavour and texture, then cut by a local
award-winning butcher.
DON’T MISS: Well-aged, deep-flavoured
hogget shoulder, awarded the Golden Fork at
the 2021 Great Taste Awards.
TRY IT: At cafes and restaurants such as
the Runwayskiln in coast-hugging Marloes,
which regularly features hogget on the menu.
The farm’s meats can be bought online or at
food fairs like the BBC Good Food Show in
Birmingham. pembrokeshirelamb.co.uk

For more details on great Welsh producers, see

gov.wales/foodanddrinkwales. For recipes, see
gov.wales/foodanddrink/about-us/recipes.
#CaruCymruCaruBlas #LoveWalesLoveTaste
campaign

R E A D MO R E O N L I N E AT
G OV.WA L E S/F O O DA N D
D R I N K WA L E S
T R AV E L G E E K S
ASK THE EXPERTS
NEED ADVICE FOR YOUR NEXT TRIP? ARE YOU
AFTER RECOMMENDATIONS, TIPS AND GUIDANCE?
THE TRAVEL GEEKS HAVE THE ANSWERS…
Q // I’m planning a South Africa’s famous safari
heartlands lie in the north east,
trip to South Africa but there are precious pockets of
and want to combine wilderness within easy striking
a city break in Cape distance of Cape Town, too.
Aquila Private Game Reserve,
Town with a nearby for example, is just two hours out
safari. Where do of town via the scenic N1 highway
you recommend? through the Cape Winelands.
This family-friendly reserve is an
ideal taster of safari, featuring
outings by safari vehicle, quad
bike or on horseback. It doesn’t
have quite the same wild feel
of the large reserves, but its
compact size means you’re almost
guaranteed to see antelopes,
giraffes and hippos. There are
lions and leopards, too, fenced
off from the herbivores. Behind
ABOVE FROM LEFT:
the scenes, there are active tree-
The Twelve Apostles
planting projects in full swing, too.
mountains overlooking
Camps Bay, near Cape
aquilasafari.com
Town, South Africa; If you’re interested in botany,
bread-making course at coastal landscapes and marine
Riot Rye, Ireland wildlife, the multi-award-winning
140 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Grootbos Private Nature Reserve
is a superb choice. Two hours
southeast of Cape Town, this
glorious swathe of rare Cape
fynbos vegetation flows down to
Walker Bay, a shallow stretch of
coast home to migratory southern
right whales between June and
November. Offering a mixture of
activities such as guided hikes
and whale-watching, Grootbos is
well-suited to outdoorsy types.
But its luxurious and eco-friendly
accommodation makes it a great
choice for a lazy escape, too,
relaxing on your balcony with
binoculars, ready for birds to fly
past or whales to breach off-shore.
grootbos.com EMMA GREGG
I’d suggest a visit to five-star-rated
Sanbona Wildlife Reserve, around
a three-hour drive from the city.
A minimum of three nights is
recommended to experience not
just the wildlife but also the varied
flora. Inverdoorn is also a strong
option: all the Big Five can be
found in the 25,000-acre reserve.
Rhinos are a particular draw here,
and the cheetah conservation
project has been making
interesting gains in recent years.
sanbona.com inverdoorn.com
The Eastern Cape province
is another celebrated wildlife
area, which can be reached
from Cape Town via a road trip
to and then along the coastal
Garden Route. It’s a long drive
(360 miles from Cape Town to
the route’s official end point
in Storms River) but takes in
many hiking spots, viewpoints
and nature experiences. For
wildlife, book into the lodges
at Shamwari or Pumba, or — if
you have a good vehicle — go
for a self-drive at Addo Elephant
Park. pumbagamereserve.co.za
shamwari.com sanparks.org
KGOMOSTO RAMOTHEA
 Q // I’d like to Respected cookery school
Ashburton, on the edge of
sign up for a Dartmoor National Park in Devon
two- or (just a short drive from nearby
three-day Newton Abbot), runs regular
Artisan Bread Weekends.
bread-making It’s an excellent place to learn
course in the how to cultivate poolish, a
UK or Ireland. yeast-cultured starter used
for sourdough, baguettes and
Where would ciabatta. Other recipes include
you suggest? beetroot and walnut bread,
overnight brioche, olive burger
buns, and raspberry and white
chocolate brioche muffins.
Best of all, you get to take home
everything you baked. Courses
start at £350 per person, with
accommodation at the attached
Ashburton Court at a special
rate of £74 per night, B&B.
ashburtoncookeryschool.co.uk
Q // What Networks EE, Three and
Vodafone will be reintroducing
changes to roaming fees on most of their
mobile tariff s this year, charging £2 a
roaming day for those travelling in the EU,
charges are with cheaper multi-day passes
available. In August 2020, O2
planned introduced a different policy
in 2022? whereby customers are charged
£3.50 per gigabyte when they go
over a 25GB limit.
But British holidaymakers can
already face exorbitant charges
or see their phone blocked when
roaming with some network
providers in countries outside
of the EU. Customers who have
adjusted their phone’s settings
IMAGES: GETTY; MARK NIXON
to automatically back-up photos
onto the cloud, for instance,
could be hit unwittingly with
costly charges.
As the UK continues to
negotiate post-Brexit trade deals,
there’s hope that there will be
opportunities to lower the cost of
Riot Rye Bakehouse &
Bread School, in Cloughjordan
Ecovillage, County Tipperary,
Ireland, has one-day courses
for beginners right through to
experienced chefs. Think you’ve
stretched your sourdough to its
limits? The advanced (Level 3)
course might prove you wrong,
and you’ll get to take a fresh
starter and selection of breads
home with you. Courses start at
€135 (£115), with various dates
throughout the year. riotrye.ie
If you want to stay over, try
Django’s in the Ecovillage, where
residents cultivate their own
crops. Private en suite rooms start
at €35 (£30) per night, including
breakfast made with ingredients
grown on-site. djangoshostel.com
ELLA BUCHAN
roaming. Which? has been calling
for provisions to be included in
these negotiations to put an end
to mobile operators chipping
away at the roaming benefits
customers have become used to,
and to prevent people from facing
excessive charges when travelling.
In the meantime, there are
things you can do to avoid a nasty
surprise when you get home.
Turning off mobile data before
you arrive is always a good idea.
Putting your phone on Airplane
Mode also turns off all wireless
connections, including your
mobile data. You can then switch
it off again before connecting
to wi-fi. Download documents
and media to your phone before
you travel, and be mindful of any
apps that sync automatically, as
this could end up using data in
the background. Which? has free
information on this at which.co.uk/
mobileroaming SUE DAVIES
Q // I’m considering
pairing a hiking
holiday in Greece with
some beach time this
spring. Where’s a
good option?
Hiking and beaches go hand-in-
hand in Greece. Bearing in mind
that most things don’t open until
Greek Easter (dates change, but
are usually after Catholic Easter),
spring is still a lovely time to walk.
One of the prettiest areas for
walking is the Pelion Peninsula, in
the centre of the country. Here,
you can wander for miles along
former kalderimi (donkey trails),
passing through mountain villages
and along parts of the beautiful
coastline. The website walking-
pelion.blogspot.com provides
excellent advice on the area.
The remote Mani region of
the southern Peloponnese,
meanwhile, has solid trails for
serious hikers. Walking tracks
aren’t always well maintained or
marked and the area is large, so
you’ll need good maps, such as
those by Anavasi. Tracks head
over limestone-covered hills and
past ruins of remarkable Maniot
towers. One easily accessible
beach with a couple of excellent
tavernas is at Cape Matapan (also
known as Cape Tainaron), the
southernmost tip of mainland
Greece, at the end of the Taygetos
range. KATE ARMSTRONG
THE EXPERTS
EMMA GREGG //
TRAVEL WRITER
& AUTHOR
KGOMOSTO RAMOTEA //
SOUTH AFRICAN TOURISM
FOR THE UK & IRELAND
ELLA BUCHAN //
FOOD & TRAVEL
WRITER
SUE DAVIES // HEAD OF
CONSUMER PROTECTION
POLICY, WHICH?
KATE ARMSTRONG //
TRAVEL WRITER
& AUTHOR
March 2022 141
TRAVEL GEEKS
YELLOWSTONE TURNS 150
THE WORLD’S FIRST NATIONAL PARK WAS FOUNDED ON 1 MARCH 1872 IN THE UNITED STATES, KICKSTARTING
A GLOBAL MOVEMENT TO PRESERVE THE PLANET’S NATURAL TREASURES. WORDS: AMELIA DUGGAN
IN NUMBERS
THE PARK
2.2 million
the size of the park in acres,
which equates to roughly
1,247,000 football pitches
96%
the portion of the park in
Wyoming, with 3% in Montana
and 1% in Idaho
4.26 million
the number of visitors
recorded in 2016, dropping
to 3.81 million in 2020
The Heart Mountain WWII
Interpretive Center, set up in
2011, recalls through artifacts
and oral histories the tragic
confinement of 14,000 Japanese
Americans in a camp following
the 1941 attack on Pearl Harbor
Of Yellowstone’s 1,283
recorded geysers,
Old Faithful is arguably
the best known.
For estimated eruption
times, check the Twitter
feed @GeyserNPS
1805
The Lewis and Clark
expedition encounters
Nez Perce, Crow and
Shoshone tribes when
travelling through Montana
142 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
THE INFO
Native Americans have
lived in the area for
11,000 years, with ancient
arrowhead finds dating
to the Paleo-Indians
of the Clovis culture.
Today, 27 tribes have
connections to the
land and resources, THE YELLOWSTONE
CALDERA IS
including the THE LARGEST
Assiniboine SUPERVOLCANO
IN NORTH AMERICA.
and the Sioux CURRENTLY
DORMANT, IT WAS
FORMED BY A SERIES
OF ERUPTIONS, THE
MOST RECENT
AN ICON OF THE PARK, OF WHICH
BISON ONCE NUMBERED WAS 70,000
YEARS AGO
UP TO 60 MILLION
IN NORTH AMERICA. THE
PARK IS ONE OF THEIR
LAST STRONGHOLDS,
WITH A TOTAL OF
AROUND 5,000
More than 6,500
The park is known for its megafauna. national parks have
The grizzly bear population was estimated been created
around the world
at around 728 in 2019, up from 136 in 1975. in the 150 years
Meanwhile, as many as 20,000 elk use the since Yellowstone
park’s high-elevation grasslands in summer was established
Timeline: from creation to conservation
1871 1872 1978 1995
Ferdinand Hayden creates President Ulysses S Grant Yellowstone is named Wolves are reintroduced
a geological survey with signs the Yellowstone a UNESCO World Heritage from Canada, and in 2008
paintings by Thomas Moran National Park Protection Site, along with Mesa Northern Rocky Mountain
and photography by William čV̼vœÀ̅iLi˜iwÌ>˜` Verde National Park wolves are removed from
Henry Jackson enjoyment of the people’ in Colorado the endangered species list
SOURCES: FORBES.COM; NPR.ORG; NPS.GOV
 TRAVEL GEEKS

HOT TOPIC I READ MORE ON THIS TOPIC AT NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/TRAVEL

WILL COP26 TRANSFORM TOURISM?

WHAT DOES THE GLASGOW DECLARATION ON CLIMATE ACTION IN TOURISM DEMAND OF ITS 300 SIGNATORIES,
WHO’S YET TO SIGN AND WHAT DOES IT MEAN FOR TRAVELLERS? WORDS: SIMON USBORNE

It shouldn’t come as a surprise

to anyone that moving millions
of people around the planet is
a carbon-intensive business.
Tourism accounts for an
estimated 8-11% of global
greenhouse gas emissions,
according to the World Travel
& Tourism Council (WTTC).
Currently, aviation makes up
nearly a fifth of this figure.
And all the signs are that
this will get worse as the world
becomes increasingly mobile:
annual tourist arrivals (both
domestic and international) are
forecast to rise from 20 billion in
2016 to 37 billion by 2030.

What happened at COP26?

More than 300 companies
involved in global tourism signed
the Glasgow Declaration on
Climate Action in Tourism at the
annual COP summit, which was
held in November in Scotland’s
second city. Galvanised by the
č
-\
//9°-"1,
and key tourism destinations
(many keenly affected by climate
change). But notable absentees so
far include the major airlines and
cruise lines. “Despite their huge
contributions to emissions, they
lack the technology needed to
How will we know if the
signatories are delivering
on their pledges? your travel
As well as presenting a climate carbon footprint
action plan within a year of in numbers
signing, participants must also
report their progress annually. 1,754 kg C02
-\7",/,č6
E/"1,-
"1
]1 /
 č/" -
6," 
/*,",č
challenges of the pandemic and
the opportunity it offered to the
industry to ‘reset’ its ways, the
firms all pledged to halve their
emissions by 2030 and reach net
zero by 2050.
Who’s behind it?
The declaration was created
as a collaboration between the
World Tourism Organisation,
the United Nations Environment
Programme, VisitScotland, the
Travel Foundation and Tourism
Declares a Climate Emergency.
“These influential organisations
lacked a unified approach during
much of the pandemic on the key
issues affecting travel’s restart, so
it’s great to see that they are more
willing to work together,” says
Lebawit Lily Girma, sustainability
specialist at travel industry news
company Skift.
Who hasn’t signed?
The 300 initial signatories include
some giants of the industry,
including global hotel chains
reduce them significantly,” Girma
says. Work to improve efficiencies
and find cleaner fuels is ongoing
and gathering pace. “But it’s
unlikely it will happen by 2030 or
even 2050,” Girma adds.
The WTTC also used Glasgow
to launch a ‘decarbonisation
roadmap’, outlining various ways
in which different travel industry
sectors — including aviation and
cruise — can cut emissions.
So how will signatories
make these cuts?
One of the signatories, Intrepid
Travel, which became carbon-
neutral back in 2010, provides
a possible blueprint. It offers
free advice to other companies
on the same journey, including
ways to properly measure
emissions, reduce them by
minimising aviation and cutting
waste. Intrepid also then offsets
remaining emissions by investing
in renewable energy projects
that meet the highest
certifications available.
Estimated emmisions per
There will be support for
passenger for a long-haul
signatories who face difficulties in yˆ}…Ì]vœÀiÝ>“«iœ˜`œ˜
doing so, but signatory status will to Bangkok (12h)
be revoked after a 90-day period
if reports aren’t forthcoming. 1,600 kg C02
/…iV>ÀLœ˜VœÃÌœv>È݇
Will travellers care? `>ÞVÀՈÃi]«iÀ«>ÃÃi˜}iÀ
The tourism industry has
been accused of burnishing 342 kg C02
Average emissions racked
its environmental credentials
Õ«`ÕÀˆ˜}>È݇`>Þ
as a way to market itself to hotel stay
increasingly climate-conscious
travellers. And signatories to this 288 kg C02
new declaration will certainly Carbon cost of a short-
shout about it. But there’s also …>ՏœÀ`œ“iÃ̈Vyˆ}…Ì]
a sense that there’s finally some vœÀiÝ>“«i iÜ9œÀŽ̜
Chicago (2h)
real momentum. Speaking to
US media company Forbes after
COP26, Intrepid co-founder
Darrell Wade commented on his
commitment to going carbon-
neutral over a decade ago. “Today,
we’re about 10 times as big and
15 times more profitable than we
were back then. And now almost
everyone cares about climate
change and emissions,” he said.
ABOVE:>Ã}œÜ œÌ>˜ˆV
MORE INFO: ukcop26.org wttc.org >À`i˜Ã]-VœÌ>˜`
March 2022 143
 IN THE NEXT ISSUE

Morocco

From surfing on the Atlantic coast to trekking with mules in the

Atlas mountains, Morocco offers truly unforgettable experiences.
In our next issue, we get under the skin of this beguiling country,
with a guide to its landscapes, cities, cultures and cuisine

Plus // Australia, Dubai, Genoa, Georgia, Ibiza, Islay,

Lake District, Newcastle, Paris, Warsaw, Zurich & more

april 2022 issue

On sale 3 march 2022
IMAGE: ALAMY

;ĩŅġĩŅäĆĢùĩŅġÁőĆĩĢĩĢĩŖŅʼnŖÙʼnÚŅĆłőĆĩĢĩƄäŅ͡
see page ̩̬̮

144 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 | PA I D C O N T E N T F O R S T H E L E N A T O U R I S M

What I love about

St Helena
Drone photographer Craig Williams’ perspective on his home island
of St Helena changed when he started snapping it from the air.
He shares his passion for photography and the island he calls home

I
used to take what I had in my backyard
for granted. St Helena — a volcanic
island in the middle of the Atlantic
— is where I’ve lived my whole life.
Perhaps because of this, I never thought that
much about all the island has to offer; I failed
to see its unique beauty, with its volcanic
valleys and lush, tropical centre.
Growing up in the island’s St Paul’s
district, I’ve always been surrounded by
trees and vegetation. When I started taking
photos, I began to appreciate the beauty
of my surroundings and wanted to give
something back. I bought a drone; first a
DJI Phantom 2, and then a Mavic 2, and was
able to see the island from a totally different
perspective. It was breathtaking.
What I love the most is capturing top-
down images of the steep, striking coastline
— constantly smashed by ocean swells
IMAGES: CRAIG WILLIAMS
island, but if I had to choose one, it would
have to be the seaside on the outskirts
of Jamestown, the capital of the island.
Sunsets there are never the same, from the
warming colours of the sky to the beautiful
Georgian buildings with history spilling
from their walls.
No visitor to St Helena will ever be
disappointed — from history enthusiasts
and nature-lovers to photographers and
younger people looking for a fun night
out. Take it from me, this beautiful island
deserves to be on your bucket list. For keen
hikers, there are endless routes to places FROM TOP: A drone shot of
like our famous Heart-Shaped Waterfall, St Helena; photographer Craig
Williams, who grew up on the
and the challenging Sharks Valley.
Atlantic island
Above all, no matter where you go on
St Helena, there’s always a photographic
opportunity. Since I started using my drone,
I go out every day to fly, and to find new

— plus historic fortifications such as High
Knoll Fort, which towers over homes from
its perch on the crest of a hill. Then you have
Diana’s Peak, where the path to its summit
is often shrouded in low fog — a pathway to
the sky, if you will. My favourite locations
to photograph are dotted around the
locations. St Helena, I’ll forever be grateful
for the views, the perspectives and the beauty
you offer — and the fact I have all this in
my backyard. I’m very lucky indeed.
For more information on organising a trip to St
Helena, go to sthelenatourism.com

R E A D M O R E O N L I N E AT N AT I O N A LG EO G R A P H I C .CO.U K / T R AV EL
 100 ISSUE
TH

SALE

FOU R M AGA ZI N E S , A TOTE BAG A N D

A FOOD FE STIVAL TIC KET FOR £ 1 5
S U B S C R I B E TO DAY A N D
YO U ’ LL R E C E I V E :

• T H R EE I S S U E S O F NATI O NAL
G EO G R APH I C TR AVELLER (U K )

• O N E I S S U E O F NATI O NAL
G EO G R APH I C TR AVELLER FO O D

• A FREE NATI O NAL G EO G R APH I C J U ST

TR AVELLER COT TO N TOTE BAG
£15!
• A COMPLIMENTARY TI C KE T TO TH E
NATI O NAL G EO G R APH I C TR AV ELLER
F O O D FE S T I VA L O N S U N DAY 1 7 J U LY
IMAGES: CHARLIE RICHARDS; GETTY

VI S IT N ATG EOTR AV E LLE R . IMBM S U B SC RI P TI O N S .COM/1 0 0 I S S

OR C ALL 01293 312166 AND Q UOTE ‘ 1 0 0 I S S ’

T&Cs: Closing date for orders is 3 March 2022. The price shown is a UK Direct Debit offer. Your subscription will begin with the next available issue.
If you do not cancel at the end of that period, the subscription will auto-renew by Direct Debit for seven issues at £20. All subscriptions are non-
refundable. The cotton tote bag is subject to availability and only valid when paying by Direct Debit for UK residents. Delivery can take up to 14 days.
The complimentary ticket is for Sunday 17 July only and is a limited offer that may be withdrawn at any time. Overseas and donor subscriptions are also
available without the gifts and payable by credit card. An annual bundle subscription to Europe is £56. An annual bundle subscription to the rest of the
world is £60. Please note: by subscribing, you agree that we may contact you about your subscription from time to time.

146 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 | PA I D C O N T E N T F O R V I L L E D E D I E K I R C H

HOW TO SPEND EIGHT HOURS IN

Diekirch
Situated in northeast Luxembourg, on the banks of
the Sûre River, the quaint, picturesque commune of
Diekirch is perfect for a day trip — here’s how to do it Diners sit outside in
Diekirch’s Old Town

B
egin with a visit to St
Laurentius Church in the
medieval centre of the town.
Built on the remains of a
Roman villa, this historic monument
is particularly enchanting, with its
beautiful frescoes from the 16th
and 17th centuries. Entrance to
the crypt below is available in the
Musée d’Histoire(s) Diekirch
next to the church, where you’ll
be transported back through
IMAGE: VILLE DE DIEKIRCH
for a break in one of the commune’s
30 pubs. While here it’s highly
recommended to treat yourself
to a good Diekirch beer from the
Brasserie de Luxembourg, still
brewed according to the same
monastery recipe as back in 1871. If HOW TO DO IT
you prefer something more formal,
we recommend a light lunch and a Several airlines fly direct to Luxembourg
glass or two at the Italian restaurant from London. From there, a 45-minute train
20nove, where you can taste the whisks travellers up to Diekirch. diekirch.lu
wide selection of wines from the

hundreds of years of fascinating wine shop and deli, Art DiVin,

history. The best of the museums in
Diekirch is undoubtedly the Musée
National d’Histoire Militaire,
with its impressive collection of
militaria — unique in Europe.
After the museum visits, it’s time
attached to it. Opened in 2003, the
shop has become a must-visit for
anyone passing through Diekirch.
Walk off the pâté, pasta and Picpoul
de Pinet with a gentle stroll along the
green banks of the Sûre River.
EVENTS

FOOD FESTIVAL
16-17 JULY 2022
B U S I N E S S D E S I G N C E NTRE , LON D O N

Experience the world

through food and travel

50% OFF!
GET TICKETS
FOR JUST £10
USING CODE
‘ NGTM ARCH’

I N PA RTN E R S H I P W ITH

The National Geographic SEE TASTE HEAR

IMAGE: CHARLIE RICHARDS. FOOD STYLIST: ANGELA ROMEO

Traveller Food Festival is
back in 2022 — bigger and
better. Be inspired by top food
personalities and incredible
culinary destinations. Here’s a
sample of what you can expect to
see, hear and taste at the festival
The Main Stage will Get the lowdown on Catch top food writers
host interviews with some of the world’s at Speakers’ Corner,
big names in the world most exciting dishes including Mandalay
of food such as Grace in one of the live- author MiMi Aye; the
Dent, Jay Rayner and cooking Masterclasses McAnuff brothers,
Fuchsia Dunlop, and in the Tarragon and who’ll be discussing
demonstrations from Cinnamon Theatres, the Caribbean and
top chefs including and broaden your Natural Flava; and
Jack Stein, Olia palate stall by stall on a Romy Gill sharing
Hercules, Aldo Zilli tour of the world in our culinary tales from On
and Judy Joo. culinary marketplace. the Himalayan Trail.

BOOK NOW: FOODFESTIVAL.NATGEOTRAVELLER.CO.UK

148 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 | PA I D C O N T E N T F O R Z A DA R R E G I O N T O U R I S T B OA R D

What to see & do in

Zadar
On the Dalmation coast of Croatia, Zadar is a quirky seaside
city with a beautiful, historical centre, an enviable restaurant
scene and sprawling national parks on its doorstep

ANCIENT & MODERN INTERTWINED

If the Adriatic seafront, with its bobbing
yachts, is the face of modern Zadar, then
the Old Town is its heart, abounding with
jaw-dropping ancient sights. Start with a
stroll around the ruins of the Roman Forum,
built by Emperor Augustus, then gawp at
the vaulted interiors of the ninth-century
Church of St Donatus and the monumental
Cathedral of St Anastasia. For something
more modern, but equally thought-
provoking, head back to the waterfront
promenade to admire architect Nikola
Bašić’s tubular Sea Organ and multisensory
Sun Salutation. Both art installations are
embedded into the esplanade and bring the
sunset to life in whole new ways.

SEAFOOD, ISLANDS & BEACHES

Beyond the historical centre, Zadar has
a wealth of islands and pebble-strewn
beaches free from the sardines-in-a-tin
crush of Dubrovnik or Split. Blissful islands
such as Molat, Silba or Dugi Otok are all
easily reached by speedboat for a day trip.
They’re also where you’ll find some of the
region’s most delicious seafood dishes and
tucked-away taverns. Make the most of
them all by hiring a sailboat (and a skipper)
and jumping from island to island.

PROTECTED NATURE AREAS

Harbouring Indiana Jones or Lara Croft
fantasies? For off-grid thrills, join a four-
wheel-drive vehicle tour of Paklenica
National Park, which feels tailored for a
rollicking adventure. It’s a labyrinth-like
limestone range 30 minutes from Zadar’s
Old Town, and home to a mini Grand Canyon
as well as hundreds of miles of hiking paths
and rock climbing opportunities for both
novices and professionals alike.

For more information, visit zadar.hr

IMAGE: GETTY

The Church of St Donatus dates

back to the 9th century

R E A D MO R E O N L I N E AT N AT I O N A LG EO G R A P H I C .CO.U K / T R AV EL
| PA I D C O N T E N T F O R E C O H O T E L S & R E S O R T S

Eco Hotels

How to book
responsibly
María Olazábal Corral is CEO and founder of Eco Hotels
& Resorts. She talks about her eco mission,
and making responsible travel easier

Eco Hotels & Resorts is a platform where travellers can book

hotels in destinations all over the world, safe in the knowledge
that they’re not only eco-conscious, but also meet the very
highest standards of luxury and comfort. Founder and CEO
María Olazábal Corral’s goal is to encourage travellers to make
greener choices, boosting responsible travel and ensuring green
hotels become the norm rather than the exception.

DO PEOPLE HAVE PRECONCEPTIONS ABOUT ECO HOTELS?

Here in Mexico, people often tell me, ‘Oh, it’s nice what you’re doing, but I’ve
never stayed at one of your hotels because I like hot showers and running water.’
It’s frustrating but changing perceptions is kind of the point — by choosing
our hotels, people find out that they can travel to a very comfortable or even
luxurious destination and have an amazing experience, while also being kind
to the planet at the same time.

HOW DO YOUR HOTELS SUPPORT LOCAL COMMUNITIES?

Each hotel is different because each community is different and has its own
needs. Some of our hotels are focused on helping with local education, making
sure the communities have proper sustainability training including the ways
in which they can improve their surroundings.
Some of our hotels have helped out local schools by providing solar panels,
while others focus on ensuring everything in the hotel — from the food to the
furniture — is sourced from local artisans. All our properties endeavour to hire
employees from local communities, too.

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF STAYING AT AN ECO HOTEL?

Every time you go to one of our hotels, you can ask for a sustainability tour,
which will show you firsthand the measures the hotel is taking to remain truly
sustainable, and the impact that has. These hotels offer incredible experiences
and the feeling you get when you arrive is amazing. We’re also working on
involving different charities that operate in the same region as the hotels,
so travellers know that by visiting these places, they’ll be helping out local
charities and having a positive impact on local communities.

For more information on enjoying a responsible stay, visit ecohotelsandresorts.com

R E A D M O R E O N L I N E AT N AT I O N A LG EO G R A P H I C .CO.U K / T R AV EL
| PA I D C O N T E N T F O R E C O H O T E L S & R E S O R T S
 1 0 0 TH I S S U E S P E C I A L E D I T I O N

Since our launch in 2011, we’ve published a grand total of 100 issues of National
Geographic Traveller (UK). Whether you’re a new reader or a loyal subscriber,
we want to thank you for joining us on what has been a truly memorable
journey. This special feature celebrates our story, the numerous awards we’ve
collected and the impressive prizes you have won as readers who’ve entered
our now hotly contested photography and travel writing competitions

152 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 FREE INSIDE!
INDIAN OCEAN GUIDE
FREE INSIDE!
South America guide WIN! toa 10-night trip
Queensland A SEVEN-DAY TRIP

BEST Caribbean NORTH WEEKENDS FOR LESS

50 top travel tips for
THE
KOREA £250
2014 — where to go,
what to look out for
IN

TRAVEL
and how to do it *@328@L2C3F52L#@?ED6CC2E 2>2:42L2C325@DL)E"F4:2
10
CHALLENG
Our writers 2J>2?D=2?5DL@>:?:42 )E2CEDî)E#2CE:?LF32 BEHIND THE VEIL OF
reveal all... THIS SECRETIVE SOCIETY

Norway
Explore the natural
COPENHAGEN ON THE RUN, HIKE THE SL
beauty of the fjords
OF CHAMONIX OR GET ON YOUR BIKE IN
THREE AMAZING NETHERLANDS... WHAT CAN YOU DO FOR
TRIPS TO BE WON! New Zealand JOURNEYS
THROUGH

INDIA
VIETNAM, KENYA Volcanic activity
on the & THE ARCTIC
in the heart of the

move 3 GREAT CITIES

North Island

ETHIOPIA
ATHENS
The smartphone apps DISCOVER
changing travel THE MAJESTIC Discover spirituality Mid-
Back to
BARCELONA JAPAN WONDER OF THIS in deepest Africa ESC
PATAGONIA The kooky culture
Sleep: Paris nature MAGNIFICENT
COUNTRY — BY TASMANIA
Dinosaurs, rainforests & cowboys BERLIN of quirky Kansai FORAGING IN THE UK RAIL, RICKSHAW, The wild & windswept
in the land of the giants
SICILY
Where to stay in the
elegant French capital
BOAT & ON FOOT Overland Track Ne
GREENLAND
Unique local flavours and Photography Competition Launch TURKEY
WIN A TRIP TO THE ARCTIC!
Kayaking Inuit-style on
the edge of the world centuries-old culinary traditions Explore the caves of Cappadocia

WIN! A NINE-DAY
T R I P TO U TA H WIN! MEXICO
a seven-day trip to
WIN ! AN 8-DAY TRIP TO
THE CANADIAN ROCKIES WIN a 10-day trip to INDIA
HOLIDAY THE REAL
SHIRLEY
ROMANCE VALENTINES

MAD MED FOR

travel writing
COMPETITION AMERICAN SIR
where on
EARTH?
INTREPID EXPLORERS HEAD
THE READ THE WINNING ENTRIES
DAVID OFF THE BEATEN TRACK…

BEAUTIES
FROM IRAN TO ZIMBABWE
DISCOVER THE HIDDEN MEDITERRANEAN ATTENBOROUGH & PAPUA NEW GUINEA.
INTERVIEW
foodie
INTRODUCED BY DOM JOLY
FROM CALABRIA’S SECLUDED BEACHES,
TO THE PRISTINE PELOPONNESE PENINSULA 30 GREAT U.S. CITY BREAKS
FROM AUSTIN TO MIAMI,
& THE IDYLLIC COAST OF ALMERIA

WEEKENDS
EUROPEAN SHORT BREAKS TO
NEW YORK TO WASHINGTON…

DINE FOR… FROM DUBLIN &

THE 2013 HOT LIST

MARSEILLE TO PUGLIA & SKYE
THAILAND Arctic adventure
this year’s must-see destinations
Take a break from Enter the kingdom of the ice bear on
the beach to explore a spectacular trip to the North Pole
Khao Sok National Park ANTIGUA WIN! WIN! WIN!
Head down to the
beach & meet the locals Boho Bali WORDS Two spectacular trips up for
COSTA RICA This rustic, untamed, rural
OF WISDOM
grabs in our travel writing & Oman, Wales,
A two-wheeled tour BHUTAN retreat has lasting appeal photography competitions Vietnam, Chile
MOSCOW in Central America’s
natural playground
Discover the land of FREE INSIDE
SOUTHEAST
THE REINVENTION OF THE
GUIDEBOOK… AGAIN
PLUS a chance to win a
7-day trip to Morocco & the Caribbean
A N I NSI DER’S GU I DE
TO T H E RUSSI A N C A PI TA L
the thunder dragon ASIA GUIDE ALSO INSIDE:
ICELAND „ SOUTH KOREA
SEE INSIDE
PLUS ALSO INSIDE MOZAMBIQUE „ PERU
AMSTERDAM „ BUDAPEST
PLUS: BERLIN, MARSEILLE, SAN FRANCISCO, BRAZIL ● PERU ● SINGAPORE ● ZAMBIA ● ONTARIO CAPE TOWN KUALA LUMPUR PORTUGAL JORDAN
DELHI „ MIAMI
in the city
TAIPEI, AUSTRIA, COOK ISLANDS, ITALY & ISRAEL DUBROVNIK ● LYON ● HAVANA ● ROME CHICAGO LAKE COMO KRAKOW CAPE VERDE ISTANBUL ● SEVILLE ● AUCKLAND ● BUENOS AIRES
www.natgeotraveller.co.uk www.natgeotraveller.co.uk www.natgeotraveller.co.uk www.natgeotraveller.co.uk www.natgeotraveller.co.uk

WIN! A SIX-NIGHT
CANADA TRIP!
FREE! PHOTOGRAPHY
COMPETITION 2012

Tanzania
A remote safari experience BURMA 45 CITY WIN!
BREAKS
deep in the African bush
South-east Asia’s a self-drive tour for two
Utah last unexplored to discover the real
A world of rock,
rattlesnakes & religion
frontier EUROPE’S BEST: ICELAND
San Sebastian’s
gourmet cuisine,
Berlin’s nightlife,
Stockholm’s
fashionistas
Plus St Petersburg,
Budapest, Nimes,
Florence, Oxford…

77
MONEY, MONEY,

TRAVEL WRITING MONEY

CAN YOU MAKE TRAVEL
COMPETITION Peru BLOGGING WORK FOR YOU?
WINNERS INSIDE
wonders a river runs wild
— the call of the Amazon
̨̪̩̩
Launched as a bi-monthly title in January 2011,
National Geographic Traveller (UK) became the
15th international edition of Traveller, adhering to
the brand’s core principles, which celebrate culture,
authenticity and sustainability

NAMIBIA

Pat Riddell, editor // Traveller was new
to the UK, and I spent a lot of the first
year explaining to people that it was
different to National Geographic and
‘not all polar bears and volcanoes’. Of
course, we’ve featured both of those at
times, and the ethos of sustainable,
responsible travel has been there from
the start, but essentially we created a
magazine for people like us — curious
travellers keen on seeing the world.
BGTW AWARDS
Emma Gregg won us our first major award
— the British Guild of Travel Writers’ Best
Long-Haul Travel Feature — for her piece on
Namibia, published in the May/June issue
Despite being one of southern Africa’s most stable and accessible
countries, much tipped by travel pundits as the next big thing,
Namibia is still considered a destination for adventurers. Compared
to long-established safari hubs such as South Africa and Kenya, it’s
been reticent about courting visitors.
For now, travelling in Namibia feels like a rare privilege. Its
rivetingly beautiful dunescapes and hills, dotted with hardy
euphorbia plants, are so thinly populated that you rarely have to
share the wraparound views with another soul, let alone a crowd.
Driving through the remoter regions, other vehicles are so few that

154 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 ISSUE SPECIAL

Maria Pieri, editorial

director // Launching Traveller
in the UK was an achievement
— a travel magazine for people
who want to travel with a
purpose and who are
passionate about how travel
impacts the world. The
foundation of the magazine
you see today was built in
these early stories with
powerful narratives and
spectacular photography.

every encounter is an event, an opportunity to stop and exchange

news. While it may not attract tourists by the busload, Namibia does
have an identifiable tourist circuit. The first time I flew in, several
years ago, I made my way around the highlights — galumphing up
the mighty sand dunes of Sossusvlei, attempting arty photos of
skeleton trees at Deadvlei and puzzling over fairy rings: mysterious
circles of tuft y grass that are as yet unexplained by science.
I admired the multistorey nests of sociable weaver birds, wrinkled
my nose at malodorous fur seals, watched lions slink through the
shimmering haze at Etosha National Park and felt my heart miss a
beat while tracking cheetahs at AfriCat, one of the country’s many
impressive conservation projects. I stayed in lodges overlooking
crumpled, arid mountains, perched among giant boulders or
ensconced in wildlife sanctuaries. All were so beautiful that I
made them my benchmark against which to measure safari lodges
elsewhere in Africa. And I fell head over heels in love with the desert.
READ THE FULL FEATURE ONLINE
HIGHLIGHTS
FAMILY MAGAZINE
December saw the launch of a standalone,
180-page Family magazine, aimed at travellers
who have children but still love to explore
the world and see no reason why their kids
shouldn’t share in their experience.
WEBSITE
The first iteration of the National Geographic
Traveller (UK) website launched in early
2011, featuring a weekly blog, as well as
competitions and offers.

March 2022 155

̨̪̩̪
The growing popularity of the magazine
saw it increase from six to eight issues a year
— reaching 25,000 subscriptions — while
2012 also saw the first winner crowned in its
photography competition

HIGHLIGHTS

HOT LIST LAUNCHED
Our annual list of destinations to watch for
the year ahead launched in 2012 — later to
become the Cool List and, more recently, part
of National Geographic’s global Best of the
World list.
BRITISH TRAVEL PRESS AWARDS
Helen Warwick, our deputy editor at
the time, was named Young Travel Writer of
the Year at the British Travel Press Awards for
her feature on the Trinidad Carnival: Greatest
Show on Earth.
PSA CRUISE JOURNALISM AWARDS
Ben Lerwill won the Best Off the Beaten
Track Cruise Feature at the PSA (Passenger
Shipping Association) Cruise Journalism
Awards for his piece on Antarctica: The
Beautiful South.

156 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

PHOTO COMPETITION WINNER
Joanna Harper // Cape Town
Joanna Harper’s The Boy
who likes to Swim pipped
all the other contenders to
become the grand-prize
winner. The judges said:
‘The decision was based not
only on the fact it captures
a beautifully intimate
moment, but also because it’s
technically fantastic.’
Sarah Barrell, senior editor //
The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee,
the 2012 Olympics: all eyes are
on London and the UK this year
but Traveller, as ever, looks
outwards with destinations such
as Burma and Ecuador, as well as
no-fly European rail trips flagged
as hot tickets for the year ahead.
ISSUE SPECIAL
EASTER ISLAND
LATA MEDIA AWARDS
Glen Mutel, currently our executive
editor, won Consumer Travel Writer of
the Year for his piece on Easter Island
They may technically be citizens of Chile these days, but there
can be no doubt the people of this land — the Rapanui — have
a distinctly Polynesian culture. And when the first settlers
arrived here in canoes from the west, between the fifth and
eighth centuries, they would have found the island suitably
tropical, covered as it was with huge, endemic palm trees.
The rich, volcanic soil enabled the settlers to thrive and
their numbers grew considerably. Then, at some point in
the 13th century, they began to sculpt the statues for which
they’re now famous; each one, it’s believed, representing a
deified ancestor, brought back to stand guard over its clan.
However, as time passed, more and more trees were
cut down, and when the final palm was felled, the Rapanui
deprived themselves of the timber they needed to build
canoes, dramatically reducing their ability to fish. With
deforestation came environmental disaster, as crop yields
dwindled due to soil erosion and streams and creeks dried
up. At its height, the island’s population stood at 12,000-
15,000, but with a greatly reduced ability to feed themselves
and no means of escape, the Rapanui turned on each other.
At some point around the year 1500, the statue-building
abruptly stopped, and over the ensuing centuries, warring
clans toppled each other’s moai in gestures of aggression. By
the mid-19th century, every single complete statue had been
upturned or destroyed.
All of the standing moai on the ahu in Rapa Nui today
have been restored at some point during the previous century
— something that surprised me, as I’d always imagined those
famous lines of statues were just as their creators had left them.
READ THE FULL FEATURE ONLINE
March 2022 157
| PA I D C O N T E N T F O R C E L E B R I T Y C R U I S E S

Home to culture, opulence and immaculate

ancient cities, Russia and Scandinavia are

Cruise Northern Europe’s two vast areas as glittering in grandeur as

they are flush with adventure. But it can be
difficult to plan a trip that incorporates it

Cultural all. Celebrity Apex, a luxury 12-night cruise,

weaves through seven cultural capitals in
Northern Europe, making it possible to
explore frozen lakes in Stockholm one day

Capitals and indulge in Helsinki’s delectable Finnish

cuisine the next. Here are three highlights.

STOCKHOLM , SWEDEN
From neoclassical architecture in Helsinki to lavish The Swedish capital of Stockholm is the
first stop on your Northern European tour.
palaces in Saint Petersburg — discover a luxury new Coming to life across 14 islands, connected
cruise offering the ultimate Nordic adventure by 50 bridges, this city is a maze of water and
technicolour land. Spend the day exploring
the city’s many green spaces, such as the
green island of Djurgården famed for being
a tranquil oasis in the middle of the city,
before venturing into the picturesque Old
Town on the compact island of Gamla Stan.

HELSINKI, FINLAND
Next up, the Finnish capital of Helsinki,
which is home to the largest concentration
of art nouveau buildings in Northern Europe
making it an architecture lover’s dream. Bask
in the beauty of its neoclassical buildings
and vibrant neighbourhoods, including the
Design District, before sampling some of
the city’s locally sourced, seasonal cuisine
such as roasted reindeer smoked with pine.

TALLINN, ESTONIA
Estonia’s capital of Tallinn is destination
number three. Spend the day strolling
through the remarkably preserved streets of
Tallinn’s UNESCO-listed, labyrinthine Old
Town before heading up to Toompea Hill
to admire the palatial Alexander Nevsky
Cathedral and sensational city views. If
there’s time before boarding the cruise, head
to the new Iglupark to try their black-wood
saunas and round it off with a plunge into
the icy Baltic Sea.

Celebrity Apex cruise PLAN IT

ABOVE: St. Nicholas’ Church
and the St. Alexander Nevsky
Cathedral in Tallinn, Estonia
Starting from £2,268 per person, the 12-night
Scandinavia and Russia cruise with Celebrity
Apex offers two-story villas and 29 restaurants
onboard. Celebrity Cruises expeditions are
sailing at a reduced capacity and all guests
must present a negative Covid-19 test prior to
departure. For more information and to book,
visit celebritycruises.com

R E A D MO R E O N L I N E AT
N AT I O N A LG EO G R A P H I C .CO.U K / T R AV EL
̨̪̩̫
ST VINCENT & THE GRENADINES
CARIBBEAN TRAVEL
JOURNALISM
AWARDS
Alex Dalzell, a former
editorial assistant, won Best
Consumer Feature for this piece
Right in the heart of St Vincent’s capital,
Kingstown, this cluster of huts is known as
China Town. By day, it’s a prosperous market,
but once the vendors have loaded their carts
and cleared their stalls, it transforms into
a makeshift casino. Now, under the glow of
fluorescent bulbs, gamblers tossed cards
into the centre of the plywood tables and
reluctantly threw dollars to the grinning
croupiers. Hatches dropped down and bars
opened for the night, drawing in punters
with booming reggae and an endless supply
of cheap rum and local Hairoun beer, piled
among ice in grubby polystyrene boxes.
In one corner, a cobbler finished repairing
the sole of a sandal, hunched over a portable
A redesign, supplements
ranging from the Indian
Ocean to South America,
and standalone Family and
ISSUE SPECIAL
Luxury magazines
PHOTO COMPETITION WINNER
Mike Byford // Corfe
Castle, Dorset
The judges said: ‘Not
only does it capture
such an amazing sight,
but Mike also had the
technical knowledge
to shoot it in such a
beautiful way.’
radio, straining to hear Geoffrey Boycott’s
commentary on England getting thrashed by
Pakistan; in another, two children scaled a
precariously stacked pile of crates, until they
caught the eye of Lloyd and quickly got down.
Apparently, I was the first tourist they’d
seen in here for quite some time. Certainly
the first they could remember sitting down
and having a game with them, and at the
rate I was losing money, I’m sure they’d HIGHLIGHTS
welcome more.
In general, tourist numbers on the island BRITISH GUILD OF TRAVEL
— a 45-minute flight from Barbados, and WRITERS AWARDS
scattered with only a few small resorts — are Adrian Phillips collected the
refreshingly low. Most of the crowds from the Best Overseas Feature for Park
US and Europe bypass teardrop-shaped St Life, about Canada’s Algonquin
Vincent for the Caribbean’s more developed Provincial Park.
countries or skip through to the Grenadines.
This means those who stay are rewarded with TRAVEL WRITING COMPETITION
an insight into authentic Caribbean life, a After launching a competition for
curious but charming welcome and stretches young writers the previous year,
of sandall to themselves. 2013 saw Ben Taub win the overall
READ THE FULL FEATURE ONLINE prize for his article, Set in Stone,
which depicted an encounter with
Mexican Huichol people.
March 2022 159
| PA I D C O N T E N T F O R F Z E E N H O T E L

A WELLNESS DAY IN
Kefalonia
From a sunrise mountain hike to snorkelling in the Ionian Sea and relaxing at
a holistic spa, here’s how to switch off on this Greek island

MORNING
From your base at F Zeen retreat, take a
private guided hike through pine woods
up Mount Ainos, the Ionian Islands’
highest peak, to see the sun rise over the
Peloponnese. At the top, enjoy a picnic
breakfast and views over Zakynthos island.

AFTERNOON
Follow the steps down to Lourdas beach to
snorkel in pristine waters or explore the coast
with a sea kayak. Look out for loggerhead
turtles; the Ionian Sea is their natural
habitat. Later, relax with a bladder wrack
scrub and massage, rich in antioxidants.

EVENING
At sunset, try yin yoga on a deck surrounded
by leafy planting before dining on a terrace
above the sea. Feast on Mediterranean fare
based on local seafood and vegetables grown
onsite. Make sure to try Robola, Kefalonia’s
white wine, with hints of lemon and flint.

PLAN IT

All activities listed above are available at

adults-only F Zeen retreat in Lourdas. Room
options range from doubles with a garden
terrace to a villa with pool and panoramic
sea views. Facilities include two restaurants,
three pools and two spas. fzeenretreat.com
̨̪̩̬
A further increase in
frequency saw the magazine
reach 10 issues a year, while
a redesigned website brought
ISSUE SPECIAL
a big growth in online traffic

PHOTO COMPETITION WINNER

Jonathan Carvajal
// The Colour Run,
Colombia
The judges said: ‘To
capture this split
second, at such a close
range, resulting in a
clear and sharp shot
... it really sums up the
crazy atmosphere.’

VANCOUVER ISLAND HIGHLIGHTS

CANADA’S WILD WEST LATA MEDIA AWARDS

Our senior editor, Sarah Barrell, returned to one of her favourite Emma Gregg picked up
countries to explore the wilds of Canada’s west coast Consumer Magazine Feature of
the Year at the Latin American
The goats that reside on the old country market’s roof have retreated for the winter. Travel Association’s Media
The grassy pitch that provides their summer home has turned to scrub, and the shop’s Awards for her piece on Peru’s
sign — featuring an antlered creature gazing over the guttering — rattles about in the Manu UNESCO Biosphere
wind. I’ve no idea where they’ve gone. Still, there’s something so joyously Vancouver Reserve: Welcome to the Jungle.
Island about Coombs village’s goaty gimmick that I can’t resist calling in.
‘Goats! On a roof! How charming’, you can almost hear shoppers think as they amble BRITISH TRAVEL
about the aisles, popping organic produce in their ‘goat tote’ (a shopping basket, to the AWARDS
less poetically inclined). Of course, it’s not a gimmick — or, rather, not entirely. Like Our first win at the British
many things on this island outpost of Vancouver, the animals’ loft y corral has a green- Travel Awards (voted for by
living ethic at its core — grass roofs give great insulation and goats act as sustainable the public) saw us pick up Best
mowers — plus a good measure of anarchic hippy spirit. Consumer Travel Magazine at this
Vancouver Island — or Victoria Island, prestigious event.
if you want to annoy locals by using the
misnomer often applied by Americans — is THE FIRST TRAVEL WRITING
separated from mainland British Columbia MASTERCLASS
by just 14 miles of water at the narrowest Held at the National Geographic
crossing. Yet it feels a place of retreat. store in Knightsbridge, London,
There’s no bridge and many of Vancouver our first travel writing masterclass
Island’s more remote points are only saw nearly 50 people attend
accessible by floatplane. the two-hour session led by our
READ THE FULL FEATURE ONLINE senior editors.

March 2022 161

̨̪̩̭
Our first Reader Awards took place this year,
with Louis Theroux collecting an award on behalf
of his father, Paul. Meanwhile, the magazine won
a second British Travel Award and continued to
establish itself as a force to be reckoned with

HIGHLIGHTS

BRITISH TRAVEL AWARDS READER AWARDS LAUNCH

A second consecutive prize for Best Our awards were established to celebrate travel
Consumer Travel Magazine at the British Travel in all its forms and allow our readers to vote for
Awards, held in London. their favourite destinations and operators.

162 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

PHOTO COMPETITION WINNER
Alecsandra Raluca
Dragoi // New
Year traditions in
Comanesti, Romania
Alecsandra, who went
on to shoot for the
likes of The Guardian,
Reuters and BAFTA,
said: “Participants dress
in furs that have been
preserved for hundreds
of years — they’re not
from bears killed as part
of the ‘ritual’, nor were
they killed especially for
it. The bear is a symbol
of Romania, and when I
discovered this tradition,
I was fascinated.”
Amelia Duggan, deputy editor //
I joined the title as an intern and discovered
a palpable sense of pushing frontiers, via
stories on the growing ‘green travel’
movement and New Orleans post-Katrina.
A culture of experimentation and curiosity
underpins Traveller’s continued success.
ISSUE SPECIAL
FINLAND
LONG WEEKEND:
ÅLAND ISLANDS
The beguiling Åland Islands were the
focus for Gavin Haines in this piece
Olof Salmi has a dream, the kind of dream only
a bona fide eccentric could possibly have. “I
want to sail away on the southern wind in my
sauna,” he says, staring out to sea. “And I’m
going to make a film about it.”
There’s something in the water on the
Åland Islands, I’m sure of it. Or perhaps it’s the
vodka they’re drinking. Either way, this Finnish
archipelago has a quirk in its character, which,
like the cool Nordic breeze, is wholly refreshing.
Scattered across the Baltic Sea, Åland itself
is something of an anomaly. An autonomous
region within the Republic of Finland, the
6,700-island archipelago enjoys a kind of
quasi-independence from the mainland. It
has its own flag, uses its own postage stamps
and can pass its own laws. To confuse matters
further, it’s Swedish-speaking.
Suffice to say, then, the archipelago is a
tad eccentric, which brings us back to Olof.
A serious looking man with a weathered face
and short grey hair, he says: “I was the first
person to build a floating sauna on Åland,”
hopping proudly aboard one of his buoyant
baths. “I needed a sauna that was close to
water, so I created this.”
The concept is simple: when it becomes
too hot inside the sauna, you jump into the
sea, and when it’s too cold in the sea, you
jump back into the sauna. This is repeated
until you get tired or your genitals go numb,
whichever comes first. It’s also done stark
naked, which is customary in Finland, a
country with more saunas per capita than
anywhere else in the world.
READ THE FULL FEATURE ONLINE
March 2022 163
̨̪̩̮
Our Travel Geeks events debuted this year,
while a rousing speech from Michael Palin at the
Reader Awards — after collecting the Outstanding
Contribution to Travel Award — reflected his
admiration for the National Geographic brand

MALDIVES

BGTW AWARDS
Pól Ó Conghaile was named
Travel Writer of the Year,
based on three features he
wrote for the magazine

Finding manta rays isn’t easy, of course. Every

day, Guy and his team spend hours weighing up
sighting reports, crunching climatic data and
scouting feeding and cleaning stations before
our ribs even hit the water. When we strike out
from the Explorer towards a lagoon or reef, little
is left to chance. But we’re still dealing with wild
animals. Not to mention Mother Nature.
Time and again, however, they crack it. On a
dive off Ari Atoll, we spot shadows ghosting about.
Piling into the water, we swim with several mantas
— one doubling back so close I can see the look
in its eyes, the scars in its black, rubbery skin. I
PHOTO COMPETITION WINNER follow it. Guy is one step ahead, and after several
minutes we end up hovering over a coral outcrop,
Jeremy Flint // Myanmar about 40ft below the surface. “It’s a cleaning
station,” he says, spitting water from his snorkel.
The grand-prize winner was Over the next half-hour or so we float on the
Jeremy Flint, with his image surface, waiting for mantas to circle around and
return to the site, where they pause for a few
of a leg-rowing fisherman seconds to allow little cleaner wrasse to pick
on Inle Lake in Myanmar. “I dirt and parasites from their mouths and gills.
When they do, we breathe deeply, free-diving
wanted to capture a unique for as long as our lungs will allow. It’s silent. I
view of the fisherman at hang there, staring at a manta as it glides by. It’s
work, seen through a cone- the longest freedive I’ve ever done — and an
absolutely magical experience.
shaped fishing net, ” said READ THE FULL FEATURE ONLINE
Jeremy. “The image shows
the incredible paddling
skill and amazing sense
of balance the fishermen
develop at a very young
age. The conical nets are
submerged in the water and
the fish that are caught are
speared through the hole at
the top.”

164 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 ISSUE SPECIAL

Becky Redman, art

director // This cover
shot, taken by Richard
James Taylor, one of our
regular photographers,
really focuses on the
people who define New
York. The scene says so
much about the city, and
the simple yet striking
coverline looks great
across the skyline.

HIGHLIGHTS

TRAVEL GEEKS LAUNCH

Our regular chats with panels of
experts began, with about 100 people
attending each topical discussion.

PHOTOGRAPHY MASTERCLASS
This popular event was held at
London’s theprintspace Gallery.

READER AWARDS
At our annual awards ceremony,
Michael Palin gave an impassioned
speech on travel and its merits.

March 2022 165

̨̪̩̯
TEXAS
BGTW AWARDS
Aaron Millar picked
up Travel Writer of the
Year. His Texas feature,
America’s Last Frontier, was one of two
National Geographic Traveller entries
The far west of Texas is America’s last
frontier. As I stand on the edge of the Rio
Grande — a thin line of rushing muddy water
that divides Mexico from the US — I hold
both countries in a single view. To the north,
there are oil rigs and shopping malls; to the
south, horseback vaqueros (cowboys) and a
crumbling, waterless town. But here there’s
nothing. These are the borderlands, an in-
between place where wranglers and artists,
misfits and ranchers, shelter in the vastness
of the desert. Life here, on the periphery, is
wilderness and silence, the boundless spirit
of independence that built this country, and
the eyes of another looking in.
The heart of it is Big Bend National Park,
800,000 acres of sparse and dusty grasslands
166 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
In a busy year, we launched our hotel
awards, won another British Travel Award,
picked up best writer and photographer
at the BGTW Awards, and held a one-off
National Geographic Traveller Festival
in the far southwestern corner of the state.
In the centre are the Chisos Mountains, the
only range in the US contained completely
within the borders of a national park. From
a distance they appear like a giant’s fist,
knuckles of jagged rock punching up from
beneath the earth. I can see them rise, peak
and fall at once, like a wave — an island
surrounded by desert on all sides. And indeed
they are. Reaching nearly 8,000ft high, the
Chisos — a name that means ‘enchantment’
— command their own ecosystem, a cooler,
lusher habitat prowled by black bears and
mountain lions. A streak of green and red,
the mountains pull heat into swirling clouds
of thunder that spark the sky with shards of
light and flashes of luminescent rainbow.
I’ve come here because almost no one
does. In a year, Big Bend receives less than a
third of the visitor numbers Yellowstone or
the Grand Canyon attract in a single summer
month. Those iconic landscapes are beautiful,
but crowded; Big Bend is a private show.
READ THE FULL FEATURE ONLINE
HIGHLIGHTS
HOTEL AWARDS
Our inaugural awards celebrated
20 of the world’s best hotels.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
TRAVELLER FESTIVAL
Our biggest event yet featured
a host of speakers, writers,
photographers and workshops at
The Brewery in east London.
BRITISH TRAVEL AWARDS
Our third award for Best
Consumer Travel Magazine.
BGTW AWARDS
Nori Jemil was named
Travel Photographer of the Year.
TRAVEL MEDIA AWARDS
Julia Buckley won National
Consumer Feature of the Year for
her piece on Puglia, Italy.
̨̪̩̰
ECUADOR
BGTW AWARDS &
TRAVEL MEDIA AWARDS
Adrian Phillips’s piece on
the Ecuadorian rainforest
earned him both Travel Writer and
Consumer Writer of the Year
It’s 5.45am, no longer night but not quite
morning either. The air is washed with a
sunless light, and mist rests like a sagging
net on the crown of the forest. Julio and
Fredy paddle stealthily, loose-limbed, each
taking a few gentle strokes on one side before
flicking the oar up in an elegant arc to take
a few strokes on the other. The river oozes,
flat and dense and silent. Alongside us, the
rainforest is immense and stock-still, not a leaf
trembling, the trees silhouetted flat against
the grey. I’m struck by a sense of the theatrical,
of a stage set ready for the play of life.
And as we wait, the orchestra builds the
atmosphere. Cicadas lay down the bassline
with their enduring electric hum. Next, a
woodpecker taps out a tempo, supported
In 2018, we covered overtourism,
dark tourism and the future of
travel, while our supplements
focused on destinations from
ISSUE SPECIAL
South America to South Korea
by a dove that repeats its single note, as HIGHLIGHTS
regular as a metronome. On top of this comes
the melody — piping whistles and echoing THE MASTERCLASSES
chimes, a huffy burst like someone working a More than 500 people attended
bicycle pump, the ratcheting noise of a clock travel writing and photography
being wound, the bubbling of a cuckoo, its sessions at the University of
call like boiling water, and the sound of an Westminster, London.
oropendola bird, like a pebble dropped in a
pool of liquid gold. BSME TALENT AWARDS
With a sort of guttural drum roll, the first Art editor Lauren Atkinson-
members of the cast enter stage left. “Howler Smith was named Best Designer
monkeys!” Fredy says, pointing to four red- at the British Society of Magazine
furred figures emerging from the dry-ice haze Editors Talent Awards.
at the top of a fig tree. “The males growl like
that to mark their territory.” We drift on, and FOOD LAUNCHED
birds start coming thick and fast. A pair of Our quarterly title made its debut.
blue-headed parrots make a dash overhead,
protesting loudly about some outrage or other.
We look in on an animated debate between
cobalt-winged parakeets, who squawk among
the acacia branches. An aloof, Guinness-
beaked toucan stares into the distance,
pretending not to hear.
READ THE FULL FEATURE ONLINE
PHOTO COMPETITION WINNER
Renato Granieri //
South Georgia
“I was walking through a vast
colony of king penguins on the
tiny island of South Georgia,
in the southern Atlantic. After
sitting patiently in the snow
for a while, two penguins came
within a few metres of me, and I
soon got the shot I was after.”
March 2022 167
̨̪̩̱
A wealth of awards and a debut Food
Festival marked a triumphant year
for National Geographic Traveller
as the brand goes from strength
to strength

Josephine Price, digital editor //

Transitioning to our new website was a
fascinating project, bringing us even
closer into the National Geographic RIDING THE
family. This digital hub is where our
print features are re-imagined to reach
new audiences; digital-only stories aim
REUNIFICATION
to pique your curiosity; and, along with
our social channels, we aim to keep you
E XPRE SS
Vietnam’s North-South railway snakes 1,072 miles, almost the
in the loop with the most interesting entire length of the country, from the capital of Hanoi to Ho Chi
tales from around the world. Minh City. It’s a route that transports travellers along a timeline
of the nation’s history, across its religious and cultural divides,
nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel and is lauded as a symbol of Vietnamese unity

WORDS EMMA THOMSON

PHOTO COMPETITION WINNER

Daniel Burton // Democratic

Republic of Congo
Shot in Virunga National Park, this
image of a mountain gorilla won 94 natgeotraveller.co.uk

the grand prize for what the judges

VIETNAM
described as its ‘sense of an intimate
and personal experience’. BGTW AWARDS
Winning Best Travel Writer and Best Transport
Feature, Emma Thomson told the story of the
North-South railway, the Reunification Express

We’re no longer a country of war — we’ve moved on,” says my guide,

Mr Tien, and I believe him. Hanoi is a city on the move; all around us,
hundreds of commuters are hunched over their scooter handlebars,
raring to go. Following the throng into the heart of the capital, we
pass elderly couples waltzing in the park, a lady and her poodle with
matching multicoloured hairdos, and high-school girls sporting
slogan T-shirts and flashes of red lipstick.
The bus halts and I step into a fog of frying chillies and fuel.
Passengers tug suitcases behind them like unruly dogs as they
approach Hanoi railway station, Vietnam’s oldest, dating back to

168 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 ISSUE SPECIAL

HIGHLIGHTS

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER

FOOD FESTIVAL
In excess of 5,500 people attended over the
two days at London’s Business Design Centre,
making it our biggest event to date, with the likes
of Raymond Blanc, John Torode and Andi Oliver
sharing their culinary expertise.
IMAGE: GETTY

BRITISH TRAVEL AWARDS

March 2019 95
Another win here with our fourth Best
Consumer Travel Magazine title.

1902. This canary-yellow pile of bricks and mortar has witnessed
several conflicts, but a B-52 carpet-bombing during the Vietnam
War hit it hardest, obliterating the central hall. It was rebuilt in 1976
— the same year the formerly communist north and democratic
south were reunified following the north’s victory and 20 years of
civil war. A historic moment consolidated by parallel metal lines.
Some structures come to define a nation. For Vietnam, that’s the
North-South railway, also known as the Reunification Express: a
1,072-mile steel spinal cord that curves the length of the country
from Hanoi in the far north to the southern metropolis of Ho Chi
Minh City (still called Saigon by locals). Its formation and history
mirror the fluctuating fortunes of the country, and to ride these rails
is to traverse not only timelines of major events but also religious
and cultural divides between the Catholic north, with its French
history, and the Buddhist south, which bears American influences.
READ THE FULL FEATURE ONLINE
BGTW AWARDS
In addition to Emma Thomson winning Best
Travel Writer and Best Transport Feature, Adrian
Phillips bagged Best European Travel Feature for
his piece on Hungary: All along the watchtowers.
TRAVEL MEDIA AWARDS
And our deputy editor, Amelia Duggan,
won both Young Travel Writer of the Year and
Specialist Travel Writer of the Year for features
on Colombia, Malawi and Santiago.
AITO (ASSOCIATION OF INDEPENDENT TOUR
OPERATORS) AWARDS
A second award for Adrian Phillips as he picked
up Travel Writer of the Year for a feature on
Nepal, while our then section editor Tamsin
Wressell won Young Travel Writer of the Year for
her piece on saving Australia’s coral reefs.

March 2022 169

 GORILLA
TREKKING

Taking you on a yĆÙƑơƄ

from £1,850

real adventure
BOOK NOW
Take part in a life-changing trek in the pristine jungle
to see mountain gorillas, or join us on another of our
exciting adventure trips.

Scan me

www.followalice.com
̨̨̪̪
A difficult year for everyone,
with a shift to staying
closer to home as the global
pandemic put a stop to
ISSUE SPECIAL
international travel

PHOTO COMPETITION WINNER

Hadriel Torres //
Marquesas Islands
The judges said: ‘This
shot captured the
energy and the power
of the dance against
the backdrop of the
stunning location. The
immediacy and sense
of place is captivating;
you can almost feel
the stamping of feet
and hear the pulsing,
rhythmic chanting.’

IRELAND HIGHLIGHTS

THE EMERALD EDGE OF EUROPE

With travel closer to home the hot ticket, our deputy editor
Amelia Duggan crossed the Irish Sea to explore...

Down in Ireland’s south west, the land frays to tattered peninsulas that
splay into the Atlantic like five mighty, crooked fingers. Around them,
little islands — some inhabited, many not — stand sentinel among the
thrashing waters, fragments of the mainland half-lured to sea by the
mercurial wiles of the horizon. This stark coastline, stretching from
County Kerry into rural West Cork, has the unmistakable feel of a frontier.
“This is where Europe squares up to the rest of the world,” my guide,
Ciarán Thornton, confirms. “Just off this coast, the ocean shelf drops away
as the Eurasian Plate goes out to meet tectonic North America. There’s #STAYINSPIRED
something almost magical about liminal places like this.” During the first lockdown, our
It’s still early when Ciarán and I climb out of the car in online campaign aimed to keep
Derrynane Harbour, at the tip of Kerry’s readers connected with the world
Iveragh Peninsula. We’re met by a briny slap
of ocean air, an excitable sheepdog and a TENTH BIRTHDAY
small flotilla of fishing boats in the hazy bay. We celebrate, albeit socially
Somewhere out of sight is our destination: distanced, turning the ripe old
Skellig Michael, an island settled by a dozen age of 10.
Christian monks in the sixth century
and, today, abandoned to seasonal bird TRAVEL MEDIA AWARDS
colonies — and tourists. Jamie Lafferty picked up
READ THE FULL FEATURE ONLINE the Consumer Writer of the Year

March 2022 171

̨̪̪̩
While travel remained a little
stop-start, vaccines helped
the world look forward to
a ‘new normal’ and a more
ISSUE SPECIAL
stable future…

Warrior queens, loch monsters, fairies and PHOTO COMPETITION WINNER

feuding clans — legends abound on the
Hebridean island of Skye. For centuries, colourful
tales have shaped the lives of those who call
Scotland’s ‘Misty Isle’ home, and are still deeply
intertwined with its soul-stirring landscapes Andro Loria // Iceland

OF MIST The portfolio category

winner and overall
grand-prize winner took

& MYTH
these spectacular shots
from a small plane.
WORDS CONNOR MCGOVERN
PHOTOGRAPHS DANIEL ALFORD

76 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel March 2021 77

SKYE

OF MIST & MYTH

Continuing our UK focus, commissioning editor Connor McGovern visited Skye

I’m standing at the drawbridge to the
‘Fortress of Shadows’. The forbidding, 12th-
century castle clings to the hillside for dear
life, its crumbling walls tracing a broken line
against the sky.
Across Loch Eishort, the dark peaks of the
Cuillin mountains run across the horizon like
a row of crumpled witches’ hats, snagging
clouds as they pass. There’s barely another
soul in sight, the land haunted by little more
than the wind ruffling the long, golden grass.
Tucked away from the world, it’s clear to
me why Scáthach chose this spot to found
her impenetrable college of martial combat.
Promising warriors would come from far and
wide to train in warfare and sorcery here, I’m
told, and to learn in secret from perhaps the
greatest warrior the Celtic realms have ever
known. At least, that’s how her legend goes.
“It’s difficult to separate mythology
and history on Skye,” says guide Ciaran
Stormonth, as we squelch our way back
inland across the boggy ground. “I’m sure
there probably was a woman called Scáthach,
but how much is true? We just don’t know.”
Ciaran, from tour operator McKinlay Kidd,
tells me about Cú Chulainn, another hero
of local lore, who travelled across the water
from Ireland to Skye to learn from Scáthach.
Historical accounts are scarce; it’s only
through centuries of spoken stories that we
can muse on what might have happened
behind the ramparts.
READ THE FULL FEATURE ONLINE

Connor McGovern, commissioning editor // Be it HIGHLIGHT

through pandemics or climate change, travel is at
an interesting juncture. We’ve always seen it as a AITO AWARDS

way of broadening horizons, and hope the recent, Our content editor,
Charlotte Wigram-Evans
renewed appreciation of the world will steer both collected the Young Travel Writer
travellers and Traveller through the next 100 issues. of the Year award.

172 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
YOU PICK THE
DESTINATION.
WE TAKE CARE
OF THE REST.
Plan your next trip now with
the all new Ravel platform.

WWW.RAVELTRIPS.COM

RAVEL

Satisfy
YOUR CURIOSITY
City audio guides written by experts

scan me
PROMOTIONS
MAGICAL KENYA
From the pulsing beat of the buzzy capital
Nairobi to the calm of the Maasai Mara,
Kenya is an unforgettable destination
that’s as diverse as it is extraordinary.
magicalkenya.com
SAY YES! TO ZADAR
One of Croatia’s most exciting cities,
the coastal hub of Zadar blends
ancient Roman ruins, elegant Venetian
architecture and easy access to the
glittering waters of the Adriatic. zadar.hr
SECRETS BAHÍA REAL
RESORT & SPA
In an idyllic natural setting in
Fuerteventura, this newly renovated
resort offers a variety of dining
experiences and spectacular views of
the Atlantic. secretsbahiareal.com
BIOSTAYS
Choose from a selection of the world’s
best eco-hotels and experiences. Each
booking helps protect at least two acres
of rainforest through a partnership with
the Rainforest Trust. biostays.com
HIGHCLERE CASTLE GIN
Winner of 49 international spirit awards,
this London dry gin is distilled in England’s
oldest gin distillery using botanicals
from Highclere Castle’s ancient estate.
highclerecastlegin.com
DISCOVER KITZBÜHEL
From snow-capped mountains to a
charming old town, the Austrian resort is
a diverse destination at any time of year.
Visitors can discover an extensive sports
programme as well as exclusive shopping
opportunities. kitzbuehel.com
SPOTLIGHT
SCOTTISH LANDSCAPE AND
PHOTOGRAPHY TOUR
Discover Scotland through the lens from
dramatic Glencoe to the waters of Loch
Linnhe. From £3,085 per person, based
on four travelling. drumscot.com
SANDALS RESORTS
For the past 40 years, Sandals Resorts
has been a leading name in Caribbean
holidays, providing luxury, all-inclusive
retreats at 16 award-winning resorts
across seven islands. sandals.co.uk
VISIT THE AZORES WITH SUNVIL
Whether it’s whale-watching or cycling,
the Azores is one of Europe’s best outdoor
destinations. New for 2022, Sunvil and
British Airways operate a direct service to
the islands. From £1,285 per person.
sunvil.co.uk

INBOX
Did you love one of
our features? Did
a story inspire an
adventure? Let us
know what you think
of the magazine and
the Star Letter will
win the incredible
prize below.
GET IN TOUCH
inbox@natgeotraveller.co.uk
Have a query about
subscriptions?
Get in touch at
natgeotraveller@
subscriptionhelpline.co.uk
or call 01293 312166
WIN
A Capacitor
backpack from Helly
Hansen worth £240!
The ultimate in expedition
backpacks, the 65-litre nylon
Capacitor offers comfort,
protection and durability in
the most extreme conditions.
/…iÀi½Ã>yœ>̈˜}̜«ˆ`
to allow extra volume for
>À}iÀ«ˆiViÃœv}i>À]>Ã
well as plenty of pockets for
IMAGE: JAMIE LAFFERTY
STAR LETTER
Isle of wonder
My wife and I have just fi nished reading your
December 2021 edition and we loved Jamie
Lafferty’s Cyprus article, which provided
a great insight into a lesser-known part of
the island, a far cry from the crowds of Ayia
Napa at the other end of Cyprus. We’re well
acquainted with the Akamas region and the
writer did the right thing by listening to local
advice about the best mode of transport for
exploring this fantastically wild and rugged
area. The locals have long campaigned to
keep this part of the island unspoilt and to
avoid the developers’ bulldozers, so it was
wonderful to read an article that brought
this to the readers’ attention and promoted
maintaining this natural landscape. Lastly, it
was good to read that skiing is well and truly
alive in Cyprus — it’s probably one of the
only places in the world where you can ski
and sunbathe on a sandy beach all within
the space of an hour! FERNANDO PINA JORGE
GET IN TOUCH
A small Orthodox church,
one of many found
dotted across Cyprus’
Troodos Mountains
Planning ahead
I sat down on a rainy afternoon in early
January and started to look through a copy
of National Geographic Traveller (UK) I had on
the coffee table. For the fi rst time in nearly
two years, I found myself excited about
travel and began planning our adventures
for the year. Norway has always been on
the ‘to visit’ list and this year we’ll fly to
Oslo before hopping on the train to Bergen.
We’re also planning on exploring some of
the Greek islands as well as the Wye Valley
in late spring. Never again will I take for
granted the simple pleasure of fl icking
through a magazine or guidebook and being
able to plan trips away. Thank you National
Geographic Traveller for helping reignite my
passion for travel. LINDSAY LARGE
No place like home
I was more than thrilled when I turned
the page of your December 2021 issue and
saw a feature about my beloved birthplace,
Liverpool. I don’t get there often now as I
have no family there, but when I do go, I feel
at home again, having been away for 50 years.
The people are still as friendly as ever, and

i>Ãއ>VViÃÃÃ̜À>}i°čÎ
that iconic trip across the Mersey reminds
mesh on the back ensures
me of my college days. I still believe Bold
improved ventilation for
strenuous activity, and an
Street Coffee is one of the best cafes in the
adjustable back panel means country. You’ve inspired me, and I’ll have
you can customise the torso to make a trip to wonderful Liverpool again
i˜}̜̅wÌ°hellyhansen.com soon. JOY GOWER

March 2022 177

YOUR PICTURES

#NGTUK @NATGEOTRAVELUK
Follow us on Instagram
Every issue, we highlight the best photos you’ve for inspiring travel
shared with us on Instagram using #NGTUK photography
every day

@mandsby @adithya.ags @andro_loria

Richmond Park, London, UK Beddome’s bush frog, Kerala, India Vatnajökull, Iceland

@anywhere_we_roam @kellybeckta @sambinding

Chateau de Lauzel, Dordogne, France Toronto, Canada Severn Bridge, Wales-England border

@sheawinterphoto @wanderjust_uk @jctravelography

Philadelphia, USA Montego Bay, Jamaica King penguins, Hound Bay, South Georgia

I WA N T T O P I T C H Y O U R P I C T U R E S T O U S ? G E T I N T O U C H AT P H O T O G R A P H Y @ N AT G E O T R AV E L L E R . C O . U K

178 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Discover new islands, get
tips from locals and collect
passport stamps!
Download from your app
store or head to our website:
www.islands.scot