Introduction to the Cyanobacteria

Architects of earth's atmosphere

Cyanobacteria are aquatic and photosynthetic, that is, they live in the water, and can manufacture
their own food. Because they are bacteria, they are quite small and usually unicellular, though
they often grow in colonies large enough to see. They have the distinction of being the oldest
known fossils, more than 3.5 billion years old, in fact! It may surprise you then to know that the
cyanobacteria are still around; they are one of the largest and most important groups of bacteria
on earth.

Many Proterozoic oil deposits are attributed to the activity of cyanobacteria. They are also
important providers of nitrogen fertilizer in the cultivation of rice and beans. The cyanobacteria
have also been tremendously important in shaping the course of evolution and ecological change
throughout earth's history. The oxygen atmosphere that we depend on was generated by
numerous cyanobacteria during the Archaean and Proterozoic Eras. Before that time, the
atmosphere had a very different chemistry, unsuitable for life as we know it today.

The other great contribution of the cyanobacteria is the origin of plants. The chloroplast with
which plants make food for themselves is actually a cyanobacterium living within the plant's
cells. Sometime in the late Proterozoic, or in the early Cambrian, cyanobacteria began to take up
residence within certain eukaryote cells, making food for the eukaryote host in return for a home.
This event is known as endosymbiosis, and is also the origin of the eukaryotic mitochondrion.

Because they are photosynthetic and aquatic, cyanobacteria are often called "blue-green algae".
This name is convenient for talking about organisms in the water that make their own food, but
does not reflect any relationship between the cyanobacteria and other organisms called algae.
Cyanobacteria are relatives of the bacteria, not eukaryotes, and it is only the chloroplast in
eukaryotic algae to which the cyanobacteria are related.
Red Slime Algae (Cyanobacteria)
What Is Red Slime Algae?
By Stan & Debbie Hauter, About.com Guide

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Red Slime Algae

Stan Hauter

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Red slime algae is actually not a "true" algae at all, but classified as a cyanobacteria. Often considered to
be the evolutionary link between bacteria and algae, cyanobacteria are one of the oldest forms of life on
earth and date back at least 3.5 billion years. These organisms produce oxygen as a byproduct of
photosynthesis, and scientists believe that if it weren't for this microscopic organism, there would be no
blue skies on Earth.

Commonly referred to as "red slime" algae, the name cyanobacteria literally means "blue-green"
algae. Despite t

he naming, only about half of these organisms are actually blue-green in color. Most forms found
in saltwater are other colors, ranging from blackish green to blue-green, from orange-yellow to
reddish-brown, and often appear deep purple to fully black in color. Starting out as small
patches, it spreads out from there as a mat of sheeting covering.

What Makes Slime Algae Grow and Solutions For Eliminating This Problem

We suggest that you don't try to put all of these solutions into action at one time, because if you
do, when the problem subsides you'll never really know where the problem was coming from
and which solution worked to fix it. Start with one solution and see what results you get, and if
that one doesn't work, try another one, and so on, until the problem is resolved. Now, in order for
all forms of algae to grow, they require only two things; light and nutrients.

 Lighting: The use of improper bulbs, lack of maintenance, and extended lighting hours are
contributors that can lead to all sorts of algae problems. While these organisms do well in the
665 to 680 nanometer (nm) wavelength range, they are quite active bewteen the 560 and 620
nm range as well.
o Solutions: Only use bulbs that are designed for aquarium use, run the lights 8 to 9 hours
a day, and following the basic wattage rule of thumb, try different types of bulbs to
increase the intensity and the spectral qualities of the light in the aquarium, particularly
when it comes to any type of full-spectrum or color enhancing tubes being used.

 Nutrients: Phosphates (PO 4 ), DOCs (Dissolved Organic Compounds), and nitrates (NO 3 ) are
primary nutrient food sources for red and other slime algae.
o Phosphates (PO 4 ) are commonly introduced into aquariums by means of using
unfiltered fresh tap water, and through many aquarium products that may contain
higher than normal concentrations of this element, such as sea salt mixes, activated
carbon, KH buffers, foods, and many other sources. Also, for established reef tanks the
long-term use of kalkwasser precipitates phosphates out of the water, and these
phosphate based compounds can settle on and in the live rock and substrate.
 Solutions: Use RO/DI filtered make-up water, a high quality sea salt mix, and be
aware of the elements contained in other common aquarium products you may
be using. For solutions to problems that can arise from using kalkwasser, refer
to The Fishline's Microalgae article.

Allowing excess DOCs to accumulate in an aquarium in turn gives rise to nitrate (NO 3 )
problems. However, nitrates can also be introduced in the same manner as phosphates, and
because it is the final byproduct produced in the nitrogen cycling process, it can naturally build
to high levels due the lack of proper aquarium maintenance care. Another contributor to
DOC/nitrate problems is when new live rock is introduced, as the curing process can add
nutrients when some organisms on the rock dies off.

 Solutions: Practice good aquarium maintenance care routines! This includes keeping the
substrate clean, cutting back on feedings, regularly rinsing, rejuvenating or changing any
type of filtering or adsorbing materials (such as filter flosses, cartridges, bio wheels,
sponges and carbon), performing regular partial water changes, and for DOCs in
particular, adding a protein skimmer (read reviews & compare prices). For those with
systems that have been running for some time and use wet/dry trickle type filters, the bio
media in them, especially bio balls, are real nitrate factories, and therefore should be
carefully rinsed and cleaned periodically.
 While most hermit crab and snails won't eat this type of algae, the Left-Handed or Dwarf
Zebra Hermit Crab has been known to peck away at it in an aquarium. To help keep the
aquarium bottom clean and tidy add some tank friendly algae/detritus eating hermit crabs,
one or two true crabs, shrimps, or other good substrate sifting tank janitors, or a fish.
Scott Michael recommends the Orange-Spotted Sleeper Goby (Valenciennia puellaris) as
being the best.
 When adding live rock, take the time to cure it properly.
 Important Note: If your tank is still cycling, DO NOT add any new animals, do ANY
water changes, or perform ANY MAJOR substrate or filter cleaning tasks, other than to
change dirty pre-filtering materials and/or to QUICK siphon stuff off the bottom, until the
tank has COMPLETELY FINISHED cycling. Because this type of algae does not attach
well, it can easily be peeled off and removed by light siphoning, with larger floating
pieces being removed with a net, or turkey baster.

 Carbon Dioxide (CO 2 ): Low water flow or movement throughout the aquarium
produces carbon dioxide (CO 2 ), which algae consume.
o Solutions: Depending on the size of the aquarium add a powerhead or two (Read
Reviews & Compare Prices), install a wavemaker or surge device (Read Reviews
& Compare Prices), and/or increase the flow rate or efficiency of the filtration
system.

While cleaning up the tank and following proper maintenance care routines won't give
immediate results, you can use one of a number of additives which you can find in Top Red
Slime Algae Removers to cure the problem quickly (within a day or 2). However, many of these
types of treatments appear to only solve the symptom (the slime algae), not the underlying
problem(s). Cyanobacteria are a form of bacteria, and many of the additives currently in use are
antibiotics, which are medications that can weaken or totally wipe out the biological filter base of
an aquarium. Use these types of treatments cautiously!

By putting into action any of these solutions, as the growth sources are being eliminated you
should see a gradual decrease in the growth of the slime algae. In the meantime, while you
determine and correct the actual cause underlying the problem, the unsightly algae can
manually be removed as mentioned above.
One final interesting note is that because slime algae consume nitrates, often when aquarists
perform nitrate tests, the readings come up as normal. Don't be deceived. If you were to remove
the algae temporarily before putting into action any of the above solutions, in all likelihood you
will see a rise in the nitrate levels in the aquarium. It's like a Catch 22. The nitrates have actually
been there all along, but unreadable as the algae is feeding on it, therefore the nitrates appear to
be in check. This applies to many other forms of algae as well!