HISTORICAL PATTERN ARCHIVE

Historical Pattern Archive: Women’s Clothing 1837–1969 is the first book of its kind
to capture such a wide range of women’s period patterns in one book, featuring 83
patterns spanning over a century of clothing.

The book offers an accurate pattern of each garment on a 1/8” graph that can be
used to scale the pattern up to its original size, drawings of each piece from multiple
angles, and instructions about how the original garment was constructed and what
materials were used. Capturing research and information about garments that would
have otherwise stayed hidden or disappeared permanently due to age, wear, or poor
storage conditions, this volume is designed to be a tool to preserve history through
documenting vintage clothing.

Written for historians, reenactors, costume makers, and costume designers, Historical
Pattern Archive will enable readers to study the history behind each piece, implement
their original techniques, and recreate unique garments that are both beautiful and
historically accurate.

Thomas John Bernard is an Associate Professor of Costume Design at California

Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo. He has worked for many theaters across
the country, including Utah Shakespearean Festival, Little Theater of the Rockies, The
Guthrie Theater, The Barn Theater, Phoenix Entertainment, and Summer Night. Tom
has received national recognition for both his design and technology work from the
Kennedy Center American College Theater Festival for designing “Something’s Afoot”
and draping “Comedy of Errors.”

Marcy Linton is an Associate Professor of Costume Technology at the University of

Virginia, Charlottesville. Marcy has worked extensively as a first hand and draper in
theaters across the country, including The Oregon Shakespeare Festival, The Colorado
Shakespeare Festival, The Utah Shakespeare Festival, PlayMakers Repertory, and
Animal Planet.  
HISTORICAL PATTERN ARCHIVE
Women’s Clothing 1837–1969

Thomas John Bernard

and Marcy Linton
First published 2020
by Routledge
52 Vanderbilt Avenue, New York, NY 10017

and by Routledge
2 Park Square, Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon, OX14 4RN

Routledge is an imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group, an informa

business

© 2020 Taylor & Francis

The right of Thomas John Bernard and Marcy Linton to be identified

as authors of this work has been asserted by them in accordance with
sections 77 and 78 of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reprinted or reproduced

or utilised in any form or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means,
now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording,
or in any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in
writing from the publishers.

Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks

or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and
explanation without intent to infringe.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

A catalog record for this title has been requested

ISBN: 978-1-138-70849-5 (hbk)

ISBN: 978-1-138-70851-8 (pbk)
ISBN: 978-1-315-14622-5 (ebk)

Typeset in Univers
by Servis Filmsetting Ltd, Stockport, Cheshire
ContentsContents

viii Acknowledgements
ix Using These Patterns

1 Introduction

3 Chapter 1: Pre-1850
4 Tan Calico Dress with Matching Capelet c.1830
8 Purple and White Striped Cotton Calico Dress c.1840
10 Brown Calico Dress with Hem Ruffle c.1840
12 Ivory Cotton Calico Bodice and Skirt c.1840

15 Chapter 2: 1850
16  Blue and Cream Silk Plaid 2-Piece Crinoline Dress with 2 Sets of
  Detachable Cotton Undersleeves c.1850
20 Grey Silk Jacquard 2-Piece Crinoline Dress with Light Brown Fringe
 c.1850
22 Pink and Tan Striped Silk 3-Piece Gown c.1850

25 Chapter 3:
1860
26 Light Pink Silk 2-Piece Gown with Velvet and Lace Trim c.1860
28 Brown, Gold, and Green Striped Silk Bodice and Skirt c.1860
30 Tan Silk Faille Bodice and Skirt with Pleated Hem Ruffle c.1860
32 Green Silk Faille 4-Piece Dress with Matching Satin Trim c.1860
36 Brown Striped Jacquard Silk Taffeta Bodice and Skirt with Braided
  Trim c.1860
40 Blue Silk Faille Bodice and Skirt with Velvet Ribbon, Silk Fringe, and
  Beaded Trim c.1860
44 Royal Blue and Black Striped Silk Taffeta Dress c.1860
46 Blue Large Striped Jacquard Silk Taffeta Dress c.1860

49 Chapter 4: 1870
50  Ivory Silk Satin and Burgundy Velvet 2-Piece Gown with Hand-Tied
  Silk Fringe c.1870
56 Turquoise Silk 3-Piece Bustle Dress with Scallops c.1870
60 Light Blue Silk Faille and Dark Blue Plain Silk 3-Piece Bustle Dress
 c.1870
64 Ivory Silk Faille Dress with Lace and Box-Pleated Ruffles c.1870
68 Brown and Tan Plaid Silk Dress with Dark Brown and Pink Silk
  Accents c.1870
72 Forest Green Silk and Pale-Yellow Textured Silk Jacquard 2-Piece Dress
 c.1870

v
Contents

77 Chapter 5: 1880
78 Robin’s Egg Blue Wool Dressing Gown with Silk Embroidery and
  Lace Trim c.1880
82 Ivory Wool Batiste and Lace 2-Piece Bustle Dress c.1880
86 Green/Grey Striped Silk 2-Piece Bustle Dress with Ivory Lace and
  Pink Silk Taffeta Accents c.1880
90 Black Silk Faille Dolman Coat with Jacquard Weave c.1880
92 Black Floral Wool Dressing Gown c.1880

95 Chapter 6: 1890
96 Blue and Green Floral Printed Cotton Gauze Bodice and Skirt c.1890
100 Navy Taffeta and Purple Velvet Bodice and Skirt c.1890
104 Black and Grey Striped “Maternity” Dress c.1890
106 Red Cotton Chambray Bodice and Skirt with an Ivory Silk and Lace
  Decorative Yoke c.1890
110 Blue and Ivory Silk Moire Bodice and Skirt with an Ivory Silk Crepe
  Decorative Yoke and Cuffs c.1890
114 Grey Duchess Silk Satin Combination “Bodice/Jacket” and Skirt with
  Embroidery c.1890
120 Ivory Silk Taffeta Bodice, Skirt, and Belt with Silk Organza Decorative
  Details c.1890

125 Chapter 7: 1900

126 Cream Linen Duster c.1900
128 Ivory Silk Wedding Dress with Ivory and Metallic Gold Embroidery
 c.1900
132 Brown Linen Dressing Gown with Dark Satin Brown Decorative
  Details c.1900
134 Mint Green Printed Silk Bodice and Skirt with Velveteen Shoulder
  Flounce and Silk Gauze Rose c.1900
138 Pink and Tan Printed Cotton Lawn Bodice and Skirt with Ribbon and
  Lace Yoke and Collar c.1900
142 Purple Velvet House of Worth Dress with Both Day and Evening
  Bodices c.1900
150 Dark Green Silk Jacquard Bodice and Skirt with Black Lace Yoke c.1900

155 Chapter 8: 1910

156 Brown Velveteen Skirt and Matching Jacket with Tan Wool Flannel
  Collar c.1910
158 Navy Blue Wool Twill Jacket with Decorative Tabs c.1910
160 White and Blue Striped Linen Dress with Embroidered Decorative
  Details c.1910
162 Wine Wool Crepe Skirt and Matching Jacket with Black Faux Fur
  Collar c.1910
164 Ivory Wool Flannel Opera Coat with Decorative Peacock Blue Silk
  Details c.1910
166 Yellow Cotton Organdy Dress with Ivory Cotton Lawn Collar c.1910

169 Chapter 9: 1920

170 Black Silk Jacquard Dress with Embroidered Details c.1920
172 Pink Iridescent Silk Gown with Lace, 3-Dimensional Floral
  Accents, and Built-in Paniers c.1920
174 Green Silk Crepe Dress with Embroidered Ivory Silk Chiffon Accents
 c.1920
176 Light Teal Blue Silk Velvet Gown with Train and Silk Net Beaded
  Straps c.1920
180 Peach Seersucker Dress with Matching Jacket and Decorative Lace
  Accents c.1920

vi
 Contents

184 Lime Silk Chiffon and Silk Velvet Dress with Decorative White
  Beading and Green Rhinestones c.1920
186 Forest Green Silk Chiffon Dress with Matching Silk Velvet Details c.1920
188 Ivory Silk Chiffon Dress with Hem Stitch Finishes c.1920

191 Chapter 10: 1930

192 Black Silk Wrap Dress with Silk Chiffon Sleeves and Pale-Pink Silk
  Lining c.1930
194 Black Silk Chiffon Dress with Ivory Lace Accents c.1930
196 Ivory Satin Bias Cut Gown with Neck Cowl and Shoulder Bow c.1930
198 Pink and White Printed Floral Silk Gauze Dress with Pleated Ruffle
  Detail c.1930
200 Lavender Silk Crepe Gown with Silver Beaded Straps c.1930
202 Ivory Printed Silk Charmeuse Dress with Matching Jacket c.1930
204 Dusty Pink Silk Crepe Dress with Decorative Tab Details c.1930
206 Black Silk Crepe Bias Dress with Decorative Applique Details c.1930
208 Peach Crepe Back Silk Satin Dress with Decorative Pleated Yoke
  Detail c.1930

211 Chapter 11: 1940

212 Grey Floral Silk Crepe Dress with Decorative Cording Detail c.1940
214 Black Silk Velvet Dress with Decorative Velvet and Net Yoke c.1940
216 Light and Dark Mustard Large Twill Weave Wool Overcoat c.1940
218 Navy Blue Twill Skirt and Jacket with Crescent-Shaped Pocket Detail
 c.1940
220 Peach Silk Satin Sleeveless Dress with Matching Bolero Jacket c.1940
222 Black Silk Crepe De Chine with Metallic Applique Detail c.1940
224 Black Silk Crepe Dress with Sequins, Cording Detail, and Hip Wrap
  c.1940

227 Chapter 12: 1950

228 Grey Silk Gusseted Sleeve Dress with White Silk Organza Collar
 c.1950
230 Orange, Blue, and Green Mini Striped Silk with a Tulle Detail at
  Neckline c.1950
232 Grey Wool Skirt and Matching Jacket with Criss-Cross Pintucked
  Collar c.1950
234 Black and White Striped Wool Blend Halter Dress with Matching
  Jacket c.1950
236 Ivory, Yellow, and Blue Floral Printed Silk Halter Dress c.1950
240 Navy Blue Silk Faille Dress with Pleated Neckline Detail c.1950
244 Light Brown Wool Flannel Dress with Peplum c.1950
246 Grey Silk Dress with Printed Pink and White Diamonds and
  Matching Jacket c.1950
248 Fawn Duchess Silk Satin Dress with Button Detail c.1950

251 Chapter 13: 1960

252 Red Wool Dress with Matching Short Jacket c.1960
254 Tan Duchess Silk Satin Dress with Asymmetrical Pleated Belt Detail
 c.1960
256 Mint Green Silk Blend Sleeveless Dress with Matching Jacket c.1960
260 Multi-Colored Long Polyester Dress with Bullseye Detail c.1960

263 Glossary
265 Contributors
267 Bibliography
269 Index

vii
Acknowledgements

A special note of thanks to the people that helped us along the way. Without your
love, support, and mentorship this book would not have been possible: Dean Barbis,
Sam Linton, Katie Linton, Bill and Carol Bernard, John and Carolyn Wilber, Kevin L.
Seligman, Melanie Parks, Diane Berg, Christine Turbitt, Judy Adamson, Bobby Owen,
Jeff Leider, Kathy Dugan, Lezlie Labhard, Jan McCauley, and Stella.

viii
Using These Patterns

All patterns have recreated the size of the existing garments and will need to be adapted
to measurements for the modern body for a successful fit.

There are no seam allowances on these patterns.

Cut 1 for all pattern pieces unless otherwise specified.

The patterns in this book are 1/8” = 1” scale.

After being enlarged to the original size grid will be 1” x 1”.

When enlarging, as with any pattern, be sure to true-up all pattern pieces before cutting
from fabric.

Grainlines follow the horizontal grid unless otherwise marked.

Be sure to read all instructions before starting a project.

ix
Introduction

From the beginning of the collaboration on this book, our motivation has been to preserve
history through documenting vintage garments. We have sought to create an archive
of garments that were hidden, forgotten, or downright disintegrating. When we began
asking colleges and costume colleagues if they might have vintage garments to contribute,
the volume of treasures right under our noses confirmed that we were on the right track.
We began to accumulate garments – regardless of their condition – and document each
one so that its unique history would not be forgotten or lost forever through age, wear,
or poor storage conditions. This trove of exemplary pieces became the basis for our
archive of patterns and drawings that are now offered to a wider costume audience.
Many of the garments we include were literally “on their last legs” – on the verge of
no longer existing from damage, age, alteration, or wear. Some were considered too
damaged to keep by their collectors, possibly to make room for ones in better shape.
Some had been altered, but left evidence of a past life before being put through the
rigors of the stage. A few were simply hidden within personal collections and might
never have been shared with the public. Some had been repurposed (not unusual for
garments linked to theater collections). Most costume professionals have experienced
that moment, when looking through storage for a shop-built reproduction, of coming
across the real deal. At which point the garment is hidden away so it will not be put
on a modern body one more time and cease to exist. Such treasures tend to end up
in a box in storage and possibly forgotten. Some of the vintage garments we found
had been updated by the original wearer for the following decade, which gave us a
rewarding sense of how the garment was kept alive and fashionable, yet prolonged the
mystery of which decade it truly originated in.
We located garments that were complicated in appearance but made of simple
shapes and garments that appeared simple but turned out to be composed of complex
shapes. Nothing really turned out as it appeared once we started investigating each
individual piece. Some mysteries were solved with continued investigation and others
remain mysteries. Several garments had structured foundations and linings, yet the
outsides were seemingly random pieces of fabric draped on and tacked in place.
Some garments were so shredded and disintegrated that only the seams were intact.
Although these garments posed significant challenges, we still regarded them as
history worth saving.

1
Introduction

Keeping the condition of the sources in mind, it must be said that every pattern
in this book, although as close to the actual garments as possible, is not always an
exact replica, but sometimes, a recreation. Each pattern when constructed will produce
a garment that resembles the original as closely as possible. We built a majority of
the patterns into full-size mock-ups, especially when a pattern posed any difficulty.
When a section of the garment was missing or damaged beyond recognition, a pattern
piece was made – all of this to give the designer, historian, technician, or reenactor a
complete working pattern that can be turned into a garment and worn.
Every time one of these patterns of history is preserved through use and passed
on, we learn from our foremothers and fathers: their materials, their techniques, and
their aspirations for their lives. Much research and time went into each garment. Every
one became an intimate object of care and intrigue. Some of them will probably not
be handled again, possibly put away for the last time in order to preserve what is left
of them. This book is the product of how we felt we could save and share lost and
forgotten treasures that might never have come to light. The dream of this book is to
preserve history in order to pass it on to the next generation.

2
Chapter 1

Pre-1850

Tan Calico Dress with Matching Capelet c.1830 4

Purple and White Striped Cotton Calico Dress c.1840 8

Brown Calico Dress with Hem Ruffle c.1840 10

Ivory Cotton Calico Bodice and Skirt c.1840 12

Introduction

4


5
Introduction

6


7
Introduction

8


9
Introduction

10
 

11
Introduction

12
 

13
Chapter 2

1850

Blue and Cream Silk Plaid 2-Piece Crinoline Dress with 2 Sets
of Detachable Cotton Undersleeves c.1850 16

Grey Silk Jacquard 2-Piece Crinoline Dress with Light Brown

Fringe c.1850 20

Pink and Tan Striped Silk 3-Piece Gown c.1850 22

Introduction

16
 

17
Introduction

18
 

19
Introduction

20
 

21
Introduction

22
 

23
Chapter 3

1860

Light Pink Silk 2-Piece Gown with Velvet and Lace Trim c.1860 26

Brown, Gold, and Green Striped Silk Bodice and Skirt c.1860 28

Tan Silk Faille Bodice and Skirt with Pleated Hem Ruffle c.1860 30

Green Silk Faille 4-Piece Dress with Matching Satin Trim c.1860 32

Brown Striped Jacquard Silk Taffeta Bodice and Skirt with

Braided Trim c.1860 36

Blue Silk Faille Bodice and Skirt with Velvet Ribbon, Silk Fringe,
and Beaded Trim c.1860 40

Royal Blue and Black Striped Silk Taffeta Dress c.1860 44

Blue Large Striped Jacquard Silk Taffeta Dress c.1860 46

Introduction

26
 

27
Introduction

28
 

29
Introduction

30
 

31
Introduction

32
 

33
Introduction

34
 

35
Introduction

36
 

37
Introduction

38
 

39
Introduction

40
 

41
Introduction

42
 

43
Introduction

44
 

45
Introduction

46
 

47
Chapter 4

1870

Ivory Silk Satin and Burgundy Velvet 2-Piece Gown with

Hand-Tied Silk Fringe c.1870 50

Turquoise Silk 3-Piece Bustle Dress with Scallops c.1870 56

Light Blue Silk Faille and Dark Blue Plain Silk 3-Piece Bustle
Dress c.1870 60

Ivory Silk Faille Dress with Lace and Box-Pleated Ruffles c.1870 64

Brown and Tan Plaid Silk Dress with Dark Brown and Pink Silk
Accents c.1870 68

Forest Green Silk and Pale-Yellow Textured Silk Jacquard 2-Piece

Dress c.1870 72
Introduction

50
 

51
Introduction

52
 

53
Introduction

54
 

55
Introduction

56
 

57
Introduction

58
 

59
Introduction

60
 

61
Introduction

62
 

63
Introduction

64
 

65
Introduction

66
 

67
Introduction

68
 

69
Introduction

70
 

71
Introduction

72
 

73
Introduction

74
 

75
Chapter 5

1880

Robin’s Egg Blue Wool Dressing Gown with Silk Embroidery

and Lace Trim c.1880 78

Ivory Wool Batiste and Lace 2-Piece Bustle Dress c.1880 82

Green/Grey Striped Silk 2-Piece Bustle Dress with Ivory Lace and
Pink Silk Taffeta Accents c.1880 86

Black Silk Faille Dolman Coat with Jacquard Weave c.1880 90

Black Floral Wool Dressing Gown c.1880 92

Introduction

78
 

79
Introduction

80
 

81
Introduction

82
 

83
Introduction

84
 

85
Introduction

Bone
vertically
on center
of dart

86
 

87
Introduction

88
 

89
Introduction

Inside
pocket
placement

90
 

91
Introduction

92
 

93
Chapter 6

1890

Blue and Green Floral Printed Cotton Gauze Bodice and Skirt
c.1890 96

Navy Taffeta and Purple Velvet Bodice and Skirt c.1890 100

Black and Grey Striped “Maternity” Dress c.1890 104

Red Cotton Chambray Bodice and Skirt with an Ivory Silk and
Lace Decorative Yoke c.1890 106

Blue and Ivory Silk Moire Bodice and Skirt with an Ivory Silk
Crepe Decorative Yoke and Cuffs c.1890 110

Grey Duchess Silk Satin Combination “Bodice/Jacket” and

Skirt with Embroidery c.1890 114

Ivory Silk Taffeta Bodice, Skirt, and Belt with Silk Organza
Decorative Details c.1890 120
Introduction

96
 

97
Introduction

98
 

99
Introduction

100
 

101
Introduction

102
 

103
Introduction

104
 

105
Introduction

106
 

107
Introduction

108
 

109
Introduction

110
 

111
Introduction

112
 

113
Introduction

114
 

115
Introduction

116
 

117
Introduction

118
 

119
Introduction

120
 

121
Introduction

122
 

123
Chapter 7

1900

Cream Linen Duster c.1900 126

Ivory Silk Wedding Dress with Ivory and Metallic Gold

Embroidery c.1900 128

Brown Linen Dressing Gown with Dark Satin Brown Decorative

Details c.1900 132

Mint Green Printed Silk Bodice and Skirt with Velveteen

Shoulder Flounce and Silk Gauze Rose c.1900 134

Pink and Tan Printed Cotton Lawn Bodice and Skirt with Ribbon
and Lace Yoke and Collar c.1900 138

Purple Velvet House of Worth Dress with Both Day and Evening
Bodices c.1900 142

Dark Green Silk Jacquard Bodice and Skirt with Black Lace
Yoke c.1900 150
House of Worth
 

153
Chapter 8

1910

Brown Velveteen Skirt and Matching Jacket with Tan Wool

Flannel Collar c.1910 156

Navy Blue Wool Twill Jacket with Decorative Tabs c.1910 158

White and Blue Striped Linen Dress with Embroidered Decorative

Details c.1910 160

Wine Wool Crepe Skirt and Matching Jacket with Black Faux Fur
Collar c.1910 162

Ivory Wool Flannel Opera Coat with Decorative Peacock Blue Silk
Details c.1910 164

Yellow Cotton Organdy Dress with Ivory Cotton Lawn Collar

c.1910 166
Introduction

156
 

157
Introduction

158
 

159
Introduction

160
 

161
Introduction

162
 

163
Introduction

164
 

165
Introduction

166
 

167
Chapter 9

1920

Black Silk Jacquard Dress with Embroidered Details c.1920 170

Pink Iridescent Silk Gown with Lace, 3-Dimensional Floral Accents,

and Built-in Paniers c.1920 172

Green Silk Crepe Dress with Embroidered Ivory Silk Chiffon

Accents c.1920 174

Light Teal Blue Silk Velvet Gown with Train and Silk Net Beaded
Straps c.1920 176

Peach Seersucker Dress with Matching Jacket and Decorative

Lace Accents c.1920 180

Lime Silk Chiffon and Silk Velvet Dress with Decorative White
Beading and Green Rhinestones c.1920 184

Forest Green Silk Chiffon Dress with Matching Silk Velvet

Details c.1920 186

Ivory Silk Chiffon Dress with Hem Stitch Finishes c.1920 188
Introduction

170
 

171
Introduction

172
 

173
Introduction

174
 

175
Introduction

176
 

177
Introduction

178
 

179
Introduction

180
 

181
Introduction

182
 

183
Introduction

184
 

185
Introduction

186
 

187
Introduction

188
 

189
Chapter 10

1930

Black Silk Wrap Dress with Silk Chiffon Sleeves and Pale-Pink
Silk Lining c.1930 192

Black Silk Chiffon Dress with Ivory Lace Accents c.1930 194

Ivory Satin Bias Cut Gown with Neck Cowl and Shoulder Bow
c.1930 196

Pink and White Printed Floral Silk Gauze Dress with Pleated
Ruffle Detail c.1930 198

Lavender Silk Crepe Gown with Silver Beaded Straps c.1930 200

Ivory Printed Silk Charmeuse Dress with Matching Jacket c.1930 202

Dusty Pink Silk Crepe Dress with Decorative Tab Details c.1930 204

Black Silk Crepe Bias Dress with Decorative Applique Details

c.1930 206

Peach Crepe Back Silk Satin Dress with Decorative Pleated Yoke
Detail c.1930 208
Introduction

192
 

193
Introduction

194
 

195
Introduction

196
 

197
Introduction

198
 

199
Introduction

200
 

201
Introduction

202
 

203
Introduction

204
Introduction

206
 

3,

207
Introduction

208
 

209
Chapter 11

1940

Grey Floral Silk Crepe Dress with Decorative Cording Detail c.1940 212

Black Silk Velvet Dress with Decorative Velvet and Net Yoke c.1940 214

Light and Dark Mustard Large Twill Weave Wool Overcoat c.1940 216

Navy Blue Twill Skirt and Jacket with Crescent-Shaped Pocket

Detail c.1940 218

Peach Silk Satin Sleeveless Dress with Matching Bolero Jacket

c.1940 220

Black Silk Crepe De Chine with Metallic Applique Detail c.1940 222

Black Silk Crepe Dress with Sequins, Cording Detail, and Hip Wrap
c.1940 224
Introduction

212
 

213
Introduction

214
 

215
Introduction

216
 

217
Introduction

218
 

Placket is folded, the edges

219
Introduction

lingerie stap

220
 

221
Introduction

222
 

223
Introduction

224
 

225
Chapter 12

1950

Grey Silk Gusseted Sleeve Dress with White Silk Organza Collar
c.1950 228

Orange, Blue, and Green Mini Striped Silk with a Tulle Detail at
Neckline c.1950 230

Grey Wool Skirt and Matching Jacket with Criss-Cross Pintucked

Collar c.1950 232

Black and White Striped Wool Blend Halter Dress with Matching
Jacket c.1950 234

Ivory, Yellow, and Blue Floral Printed Silk Halter Dress c.1950 236

Navy Blue Silk Faille Dress with Pleated Neckline Detail c.1950 240

Light Brown Wool Flannel Dress with Peplum c.1950 244

Grey Silk Dress with Printed Pink and White Diamonds and
Matching Jacket c.1950 246

Fawn Duchess Silk Satin Dress with Button Detail c.1950 248
Introduction

228
 

229
Introduction

230
 

231
Introduction

Canvas
Canvas
Canvas interfacing
interfacing
from here interfacing
down

232
 

233
Introduction

234
 

235
Introduction

236
 

237
Introduction

238
 

239
Introduction

240
 

241
Introduction

242
 

243
Introduction

244
 

245
Introduction

246
 

247
Introduction

248
 

249
Chapter 13

1960

Red Wool Dress with Matching Short Jacket c.1960 252

Tan Duchess Silk Satin Dress with Asymmetrical Pleated Belt

Detail c.1960 254

Mint Green Silk Blend Sleeveless Dress with Matching Jacket

c.1960 256

Multi-Colored Long Polyester Dress with Bullseye Detail c.1960 260

Introduction

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253
Introduction

254
 

255
Introduction

256
 

257
Introduction

258
 

259
Introduction

260
 

261
The glossary

(symbols and terms used in this book)

CF – Center Front of garment

These are symbols which need to be changed on the glossary
isCB
But the glossary – Center
in word Back
so we will offind
need to garment
away to
merge these in photo shop together with the word document
These are symbols which need to be changed on the glossary
isSF
But the glossary – Side
in word so weFront oftogarment
will need find away to
merge these in photo shop together with the word document
These are symbols which need to be changed on the glossary
is SB
But the glossary – Side
in word Back
so we will needof
togarment
find away to
merge these in photo shop together with the word document

– Place on a fold

– The beginning or end of a bone

– Fold line

Accordion pleating – Narrow pleats of uniform width resembling the baffles of an

accordion.

Bagged out – When two pieces are placed with the right sides facing each other and
sewn, then turned right side out.

Baleen – A hard Keratin substance taken from the Jaw of a baleen whale. It was
previously used as boning in garments and sometimes called whale bone.

Box pleat/Inverted box pleat – A box pleat is when two folds turn towards each other,
inverted is the reverse.

Cartridge pleating – 3-dimensional accordion style pleating that is created by the ends
of the pleats being sewn to the face of the garment, so they stand away and then fall
from whatever it is sewn to.

Clean finish – When an edge is completed, for instance sewing a facing into the neckline
as a finish.

Cording – Cord that has been covered with bias fabric.

Faggoting – This open work stitching is used for the decorative joining of or creating a
decorative finish on, garment sections. When used for joining sections, leave about
1/8” between sections.

263
The glossary

Flange – A pleat or fold of fabric that extends out from a seam or edge.

Flatlined/flatted – When two layers are placed flat together and stitched creating a
single piece.

French seam – A narrow 1/8”–1/4” wide straight seam that encases the seam allowance.

Gauged or Gauged pleating – 1/8”–1/4” pleating that is sewn flat.

Godet – A triangular piece of fabric sewn into a seam or slash.

Hem stitch – Faggoting that has been cut in the center creating a fine edge.

Interlining – Fabric that is flatlined to the fashion fabric and joined into the seams for
support and/or added shape.

Open Work – Work having numerous small openings through the material, as drawn
or punch work or lace.

Panier – A bone and net structured foundation placed at side of each hip for fabric to
extend out and over.

Passamenterie – A decorative trimming that is made using cord or gimp.

Piecing – Sewing two or more pieces of fabric together to accommodate a large pattern
piece.

Piping – Similar to cording but bias is applied without the cord inside.

Pleat – A fold in the fabric that is stitched.

Proper Left/Right of garment – Right or left as if you are wearing the garment.

Rever – A wide, shaped Lapel.

Rouched – A narrow width of fabric that is gathered on both long edges.

Roll hem – When an edge is turned twice and stitched down to encase the raw edge.

Saddle – A piece cut from interfacing that is placed in the back upper shoulder area of
a garment.

Seam binding – Fabric tape usually 1/4” wide used to bind or face an unfinished edge.

Shirring – Three or more rows of gathering usually not further than 1/4” apart.

Tailor’s Tape – Cotton tape that can be 1/4”–1” wide that is made with a plain weave.

Tuck – A pleat that is sewn down either its full length or for a particular distance.

Turn and stitch – When a raw edge is turned once, usually no more than 1/4”, and edge
stitched on the fold.

Welt/double welt – An inserted pocket with edges bound.

264
Contributors

We would like to express our gratitude to the individuals who helped make this
book possible by their generosity in loaning and allowing us to pattern and research
garments contained within.

Judy Adamson, Professor of the Practice

University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill

Barbara A. Bell, Costume Shop Supervisor

Williams College

Brittney Belz, Artist in Residence/Costume Designer

Union College, Schenectady, NY

Jeffrey Lieder, Professor

University of Wisconsin at Milwaulkee

Donna Meester, Professor of Costume Design

The University of Alabama

Bobbi Owen, Michael R. McVaugh Distinguished Professor of Dramatic Art

University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill

Jennie N. Ruhland, Lecturer, Head of Costumes, Production Manager

Roanoke College

Brian Russman, Associate Professor of Costume Production

Carnegie Mellon University

Deborah Weber, Costume Shop Manager

San Jose State University

265
Contributors

Monica M. Weinzapfel, Costume Designer/Professor

Radford University

Gweneth West, Professor of Drama, Costume Design, Founder & Curator of The
Collection of Historic Dress
University of Virginia Department of Drama, Charlottesville

266
Bibliography

Blum, S. (1984). Paris fashions of the 1890’s. Mineola: Dover.

Bradfield, N. (2001). Costume in detail: Women’s dress, 1730–1930. Orpington: E. Dobby.
Calahan, A., & Cannell, K.T. (2015). Fashion plates: 150 years of style. New Haven: Yale
University Press.
Complete Guide to Sewing. (1976). Pleasantville: The Reader’s Digest Association.
Countryman, R.S., & Hopper, E.W. (1998). Women’s wear of the 1920’s: With complete
patterns. Studio City: Players Press.
Cunnington, C. W. (1990). English women’s clothing in the nineteenth century: A
comprehensive guide with 1,117 illustrations. New York: Dover Publications.
Dirix, E., & Fiell, C. (2013). 1940s fashion: The definitive sourcebook. London: Goodman Fiell.
Eaton, L., & Montgomery, F.M. (2014). Printed textiles: British and American cottons and
linens 1700–1850. New York: The Monacelli Press.
Fukai, A., Suoh, T., Iwagami, M., Koga, R., & Nii, R. (2014). Fashion: A history from the 18th
to the 20th century. Köln: Taschen.
Gabet, O. (2017). Fashion forward: 300 years of fashion. New York: Rizzoli International
Publications.
Holland, V. B. (1988). Hand coloured fashion plates, 1770 to 1899. London: Batsford.
Ingham, R., Covey, L., & Ingham, R. (2003). The costume technician’s handbook. Portsmouth,
NH: Heinemann.
Montgomery, F.M. (2007). Textiles in America, 1650–1870: A dictionary based on original
documents, prints and paintings, commercial records, American merchant’s papers,
shopkeepers’ advertisements, and pattern books with original swatches of cloth. New
York: W.W. Norton.
Payne, B. (n.d.). History of costume: From the ancient Egyptians to the twentieth century.
New York: HarperCollins.
Picken, M.B. (2013). A dictionary of costume and fashion historic and modern. Newburyport:
Dover Publications.
Severa, J.L. (n.d.). Dressed for the photographer: Ordinary Americans and fashion, 1840–
1900. Kent: Kent State University Press.
Tortora, P.G., & Eubank, K. (2010). Survey of historic costume: A history of Western dress.
New York: Fairchild Publications.

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Bibliography

Trestain, E.J. (1998). Dating fabrics: A color guide, 1800–1960. Paducah: America Quilter’s
Society.
Warnes, F.J. (2016). Nineteenth-century women’s fashions. Atglen: Schiffer Publishing.
Waugh, N., & Woodward, M. (2011). The cut of women’s clothes: 1600–1930. New York:
Routledge.
Wilcox, C. (2008). The golden age of couture: Paris and London, 1947–57. London: V & A.

268
Index
apron, decorative 68, 70, 71
basque 50, 55
beading 174, 178–9, 184–5
silver bugle beads 201
for trim 40–3
belt buckles
rhinestone 195, 196–7, 201
self-fabric covered 203, 213, 215
belt loops, crocheted 197, 203, 207
belts 122, 133, 150–1, 156–7, 159, 180,
195, 196–7, 200–1, 202–3, 206–7,
215
asymmetrical 254–5
self-covered 213
bodices
blue and green floral printed cotton
gauze 96–9
blue and ivory silk moire with
decorative yoke and cuff 110–13
blue silk faille with velvet ribbon, silk
fringe and beaded trim 40–3
brown, gold and green striped silk
28–9
brown striped jacquard silk taffeta
with braided trim 36–9
dark green silk jacquard with black
lace yoke 150–3
day/evening 142–3
ivory cotton calico 12–13
ivory silk taffeta with silk organza
details 120–3
navy taffeta and purple velvet 100–3
pink and tan printed cotton lawn
with ribbon and lace yoke and
collar 138–41
red cotton chambray with ivory silk
and lace decorative yoke 106–9
tan silk faille 30–1
bodice/jacket, grey duchess silk satin
with embroidery 114–19
boning 11, 16, 19, 20, 26, 28–9, 30, 36,
40, 44, 46, 50, 56, 60, 64, 68, 78,
81, 86, 88, 100, 103, 110, 113, 114, button and loop 222–3
120, 122, 134, 136, 140, 149 buttons 220
plastic 236 buttons and braided motif 164–5
bows 23, 26, 34, 60, 69, 75, 85, 86, buttons and buttonholes 8, 10, 12,
121–2, 130, 144, 149, 150, 180, 20, 30, 32, 40, 54, 56, 60, 61,
188–9, 196–7, 220, 229, 230, 248, 64, 67, 68, 72, 78, 82, 86, 90, 92,
249 104, 126–7, 132–3, 156–7, 158–9,
braid trim 36, 37–8; see also hem braid 160–1, 162–3, 216, 218–19, 232,
bustles 52, 54, 57–9, 61–3, 66, 68, 85, 234–5, 244–5, 246–7
102, 103, 117 buttons and loops 174, 198–9, 202–3,
buttonholes 214, 252, 256–7
hidden 90–1 button tab 180, 182
keyhole 126 eyelets (hand-sewn) 142, 147
button loops hook and bars 128, 130, 147, 149,
black soutache 215 156–7, 176, 179, 208–9
hand-crocheted 198–9 hook and eye 4, 20, 28–9, 32, 36, 42,
self-fabric wool spaghetti 253 44, 59, 64, 71, 72, 74, 83–4, 86,
buttons 96, 97, 100, 103, 106–7, 110, 113,
abalone 127 114, 117–18, 120, 133, 134, 136,
bakelite 216 138, 140, 142, 150–1, 153, 162–3,
ball soutache 253 176, 179
covered 56 hook and eye (flattened brass) 8, 16,
decorative 44–5, 70, 73, 127, 159, 46–7, 50
163, 208–9, 235, 245, 249 hook and eye (hand-bound) 22
green glass 174 hook and loop 216
half ball 40, 219, 259 hook and thread bars 135–6
jet half ball 93 ivory crocheted 160–1
passamenterie 32, 35, 164–5 lacing/eyelets 22, 26
pearl 104 navy blue velvet covered 160–1
pink silk taffeta covered 87 ribbon 86
plastic 182–3 snaps 166, 170, 172, 176, 177, 180,
rhinestone ball 209 198, 200, 208–9, 215, 220, 244–5
rhinestone studded 235 zippers 204–5, 212–13, 214, 218–19,
self-fabric covered 30, 40, 199, 203, 220, 222–3, 224–5, 228–9, 230–1,
205, 215, 245, 247, 249, 259 232, 234–5, 236, 239, 240–1, 243,
shell 133 244–5, 246–7, 248–9, 252, 254,
silk covered 144 256, 259, 260–1
white glass 79 coats
black silk faille dolman with jacquard
capelet 5 weave 90–1
chest padding 56, 100, 106, 110, 150–1, opera coat, ivory wool flannel 164–5
156 overcoat, light and dark mustard
closures large twill weave wool 216–17
269
Index
coin pocket 72
cording 4–5, 9, 10, 12–13, 29, 35, 42,
47, 55, 60, 61, 62, 72, 106, 192–3,
212–13, 224–5
cummerbund 144, 149
dresses
black and grey striped “maternity”
104–5
black silk chiffon with ivory lace
­accents 194–5
black silk crepe bias with decorative
applique details 206–7
black silk crepe de chine with
­metallic applique detail 222–3
black silk crepe with sequins,
­cording detail and hip wrap
224–5
black silk jacquard with embroidered
details 170–1
black silk velvet with decorative
velvet and net yoke 214–15
black silk wrap with silk chiffon
sleeves and pale-pink silk lining
192–3
blue and cream silk plaid crinoline
with detachable undersleeves
16–19
blue large striped jacquard silk
taffeta 46–7
brown and tan plaid silk with dark
brown and pink silk accents
68–71
brown calico with hem ruffle 10–11
dusty pink silk crepe with decorative
tab details 204–5
fawn duchess silk satin with button
detail 248–9
forest green silk and pale-yellow
textured silk jacquard 2-piece
72–5
forest green silk chiffon with
matching silk velvet details
186–7
green/grey striped silk 2-piece bustle
with ivory lace and pink silk
taffeta accents 86–9
green silk crepe with embroidered
ivory silk chiffon accents
174–5
green silk faille 4-piece with
matching satin trim 32–5
grey floral silk crepe with decorative
cording detail 212–13
grey silk gusseted sleeve with white
silk organza collar 228–9
grey silk jacquard 2-piece with fringe
20–1
grey silk with pink and white printed
diamonds 246–7
ivory printed silk charmeuse 202–3
270
ivory silk chiffon with hem stitch bias details 100, 103
finishes 188–9 brass rings 145–6, 149
ivory silk faille with lace and box- bullseye detail 260–1
pleated ruffles 64–7 buttons 248–9
ivory wool batiste and lace 2-piece CB rosette 100
bustle 82–5 cording 212–13, 224–5
light blue silk faille and dark blue decorative cuff 144
plain silk 3-piece bustle 60–3 decorative stitching 159
light brown wool flannel with decorative tabs 159, 204–5
peplum 244–5 fabric violets 229
lime silk chiffon and silk velvet with hanging tabs 149
decorative white beading and hem stitch finishes 188–9
green rhinestones 184–5 rhinestones 184–5, 195, 196–7, 201,
mint green silk blend sleeveless 206–7
256–9 rosettes 110, 113
multi-colored long polyester with self-fabric flowers 203
bullseye detail 260–1 self-fabric strips 220
navy blue silk faille with pleated sequins 224–5
neckline detail 240–3 silk and lace decorative yoke 106–9
orange, blue and green mini striped silk gauze rose 135–6
silk with a tulle detail at neckline silk velvet 186–7
230–1 tassels 164–5
peach crepe back silk satin with three-dimensional floral accents
pleated decorative yoke 208–9 172
peach seersucker with decorative tulle neckline detail 230
lace accents 180–3 velvet binding 122–3
peach silk satin sleeveless with See also embroidery; lace trim;
matching bolero jacket 220–1 ribbon trim; rouching; ruffles
pink and white printed floral silk embroidery 78, 114–16, 118–19, 149,
gauze with pleated ruffle detail 160–1, 170–1, 174–5
198–9 metallic gold 128–9, 131
purple and white striped cotton eyelets 26
calico 8–9
purple House of Worth 142–9 faux fur 162–3
red wool 252–3 flanges 126–7
royal blue and black striped silk bias 22
taffeta 44–5 flounces 26, 46–7, 129–30, 136, 181,
tan calico with matching capelet 4–7 183, 184–5, 189
tan duchess silk with asymmetrical shoulder 135
pleated belt detail 254–5 skirt 200
turquoise silk 3-piece bustle with French seams 151, 170, 185, 186, 195
scallops 56–9 fringe 20–1, 40–3, 51, 60, 90–1, 115,
white and blue striped linen with 117, 185
embroidered details 160–1
yellow cotton organdy with ivory gowns
cotton lawn collar 166–7 ivory satin bias cut with neck cowl
See also gowns; halter dresses; and shoulder bow 196–7
wedding dress ivory silk satin and burgundy velvet
dressing gowns 2-piece 50–5
black floral wool 92–3 lavender silk with silver beaded
brown linen with dark brown satin straps 200–1
details 132–3 light pink silk 2-piece with velvet and
robin’s egg blue wool with silk lace trim 26–7
embroidery and lace trim 78–81 light teal blue silk velvet with train
dress shields 159, 163 and silk net beaded straps
duster, cream linen 126–7 176–9
pin and tan striped silk 3-piece 22–3
embellishments 142 pink iridescent silk with lace, three-
applique 206–7, 222–3 dimensional floral accents, and
beading 40–3, 174, 178–9, 184–5, 201 built-in panniers 172–3
bias dècor 156–7 See also dresses
 Index

halter dresses 120, 123, 128, 132, 144, 147, 196, scalloped edges 32–5, 56–7, 132, 174,
black and white striped wool blend 224, 249 184–5
234–5 accordion 240, 247 shirring 93, 185, 194, 198
ivory, yellow and blue floral printed box 64–5, 145–6, 216, 233, 235 shoulder pads 216, 219, 247
silk 236–9 cartridge 27, 33, 50, 57–8, 62, 87 shoulder straps 176, 178
hem braid 18, 41–2, 45, 47, 61, 74–5, gauged 11, 12, 18 silk bias facing 44, 50, 51, 62
102, 133 knife 62, 80, 84, 208–9 silk binding 71
hip wrap 224–5 for ruffles 70 skirt pad 117
pockets 133 skirts
jabot 97–8, 121, 123 coin 72 blue and green floral printed cotton
jackets crescent shaped 218–19 gauze 96–9
black and white striped wool blend fake 235 blue and ivory silk moire with
234–5 in lining 117 decorative yoke and cuff 110–13
grey silk with pink and white printed patch 69 blue silk faille with velvet ribbon, silk
diamonds 246–7 watch 12, 34, 44, 60 fringe and beaded trim 40–3
grey wool with criss-cross pin tucked brown, gold and green striped silk
collar 232–3 rhinestones 184–5, 195, 201, 206–7 28–9
ivory printed silk charmeuse 202–3 ribbon trim 17, 22, 26, 40–3, 82, 86, 87, brown striped jacquard silk taffeta
mint green silk blend 256–9 96, 98, 113, 116, 117, 136–7, 138, with braided trim 36–9
navy blue twill with crescent shaped 140, 142, 147, 149 brown velveteen 156–7
pocket details 218–19 ric-rac trim 13 dark green silk jacquard 150–3
navy blue wool twill with decorative rosettes 100 grey duchess silk satin with
tabs 158–9 rouching 17, 20–1, 34, 70, 100, 108, embroidery 114–19
peach seersucker with decorative 132 grey wool 232–3
lace accents 180–3 ruffles ivory cotton calico 12–13
peach silk satin bolero 220–1 apron 74 ivory silk taffeta with silk organza
red wool short 252–3 armseye 96 details 120–3
wine wool crepe with black faux fur bodice 12–13, 64, 96 mint green printed silk 134–7
162–3 capelet 5 mint green printed silk with
jacquard weave pattern 91 collar 79–80 velveteen shoulder flounce and
dust ruffles 64–6, 80–1, 115, 130–1, silk gauze rose 134–7
lace trim 26, 64, 78, 82, 85, 86, 87–8, 89, 145–6, 149 navy blue twill 218–19
96–7, 106, 113, 116, 117, 119, 135, 138, hem 92, 97–9, 115, 136–7, 198–9 navy taffeta and purple velvet 100–3
140, 144, 148, 149, 150–1, 153, 170–1, jabot 98 pink and tan printed cotton lawn
172–3, 182–3, 194–5 lace 82–5 138–41
lacing 26 neckline 92–3, 104 red cotton chambray 106–9
overdress hem 167 tan silk faille with pleated hem ruffle
open work patterns 17 pleated 70, 82–4, 198–9 30–1
rouched 70 wine wool crepe 162–3
panniers 172–3 shoulder 198–9 sleeve flounce 46–7
passamenterie buttons 32, 35, 135–6, skirt 10, 30–1, 34–5, 44, 52, 54–5, sleeves, double 39
153 61, 62–3, 64–7, 68–70, 71, 73–5,
patch pocket 69 78, 80–1, 82–5, 104–5, 108–9, tucks 104–5, 106, 138, 166, 222, 236,
pattern creation 1–2 111–13, 139–40, 141, 145–6, 149, 247
pattern specifications ix 151–3, 237–8 stacked 111
peplum 116, 244–5 sleeve 32–3, 44, 60, 61, 67, 79, 96,
pinking 19, 45, 165, 203, 205, 215, 229, 107, 121, 140–1, 166–7 undersleeves 17, 19
249, 254 underskirt 87, 89, 130–1
pin tucks 96–7, 194, 232–3 waist 115, 117 velvet binding 122–3
piping 71, 133 yoke 92, 104
pleating 7, 20–1, 37–9, 44, 47, 50, 52, waist cinches 56, 60, 82
53, 56, 57–9, 61, 63, 66–7, 71, 73–4, sashes 192–3, 237, 239 watch pocket 12, 34, 44, 60
75, 78–9, 81, 83–4, 88, 101, 119, satin bias piping 32–3, 34, 35 wedding dress, ivory silk 128–31

271