Subject Name: Textile Testing and Quality Control-2

Assignment Name: Crimp

Submitted To Submitted By

Name: MD. Al-Amin Shaikh Name: Ahasan Habib

ID: TEX2001019081 Lecturer: Sonargaon Univarsity
Batch:19-B
Introduction :
Percentage of crimp is defined as the mean difference between the straightened
thread length and the distance between the ends of thread while in the cloth,
expressed as percentage. When warp and weft yarns interlace in fabric they follow a
wavy or corrugated path. Crimp percentage is a measure of this waviness in yarns.
Warp and weft crimp percentages are two of the eleven structural elements in fabric
construction discussed by Pierce. The relationships between the geometry of a cloth
structure and its physical behavior in use are complex. Although much pioneer work
has been done there are many unresolved problems still to be investigated.

Crimp: When warp and weft yarn interlace in fabric they follow a wavy path.
According to pierce “crimp”, geometrically considered is the percentage excess of
length of the yarn axis over the cloth length.
Crimp%: crimp percentage is defined as the mean difference between the
straightened thread length and the distance between the ends of the thread while in
cloth which is expressed as a percentage. Mathematically,

Objective:
To measure the crimp percentage in warp and weft of a given fabric.
Theory:
Percentage crimp is defined as the mean difference between the straightened thread
length and the distance between the ends of the thread while in the cloth, expressed
as a percentage. From the definition of crimp two values must be known, the cloth
length from which the yarns is removed and the straightened length of the thread. In
order to straighten the thread, tension must be applied, just sufficient to remove all
the kinks without stretching the yarn. In practice it is seldom possible to remove all
the crimp before the yarn itself begins to stretch. The standardized tensions
recommended in the B.S. Handbook are given below:

Yarn Count Tension

Finer than 7 tex 0.75 tex

Cotton
Coarser than 7 tex 0.20 tex + 4
1
Woolen & Worsted 5 to 60 tex 0.20 tex + 4

60 to 300 tex 0.07 tex + 12

All man-made continuous All counts Tex / 2

filament yarns
From those two values we can calculate the crimp percentage with
the following formula:

1–p
c = ———- x 100
p

Where, c = crimp, l = uncrimped length and p = crimped length.

Five groups of threads selected for test are two warp way and three weft way
groups. The mean crimp percentage is calculated warp way and weft way.
Rectangular strips are carefully marked on the cloth and each strip cut into the
form of a flap. From each strip ten threads will be removed. Removal of
threads is as follows: the central part of the first thread is separated from the
flap fringe by means of a dissecting needle, but the two extreme ends are left
secured. One end is then removed and place in the grip of the tester, and the
other end is removed and placed in the second grip. In this way the thread is
transferred from the cloth to the crimp tester without loss of twist and with a
minimum handling. Several crimp testers are available, Shirley crimp tester is
one of them.
Atmosphere:

• Temperature – 25oC and relative humidity – 67%

• Standard atmosphere: temperature – 20oC and relative humidity – 65%.

Apparatus:

1. Crimp tester
2. Fabric sample
3. Scissor
4. Scale
 Fig: Diagram of crimp tester

Sample: Cotton woven fabric. Length = 10″.

Working Procedure:

1. At first we have to select the warp or weft way of the fabric. Then we
should select the test length of the yarn. Here it is 10″.
2. According to test length we will cut the flap of fabric.
3. Now a single yarn is to remove from the flap of fabric carefully as
discussed in theory.
4. One end of the yarn is gripped in the fixed gripper of the machine and the
other end is gripped in the other setting the test length.
5. Now the tension for the sample is found out from its count and it is set in
the machine.
6. After that we will apply tension along the yarn length with hand by taking
away the other end of yarn far from the first end.
7. As soon as the white marl on the tension bar is on the same line of its both
sides white mark, we will stop far away the other end.
8. The length of the yarn after applying tension is taken from the scale.
9. Now from this two lengths crimp percentage is calculated from the given
formula.
10. In this way at least 10 crimp percentage for warp and 10 for weft is taken
and average crimp percentage is calculated from them.

Data:

Warp Yarn Weft yarn

S/n
Crimped Crimp Crimped Crimp
Uncrimped Uncrimped
length percentage Mean length percentage Mean
length (l) length (l)
(p) (c) (p) (c)

1 10.7″ 7% 11.1″ 11%

10″ 6.7% 10″ 10.5%
2 10.9″ 9% 11″ 10%
3 10.8″ 8% 11.2″ 12%

4 10.4″ 4% 11.1″ 11%

5 10.6″ 6% 10.9″ 9%

Calculation:
The count of yarn tested is 20 Ne both for warp and weft way. Therefore,

………..590.6
Tex = —————
…………20

= 29.53

From the table of standard tension we find required tension = 0.2 x 29.53 + 4
= 9.9 gm. Suppose l = 10.7″. Then,

………………………………..10.7 – 10
Crimp Percentage, c = ———————– x 100
……………………………………10

…0.7
= ——– x 100
…10

…70
= ——–
…10
= 7%

Results:

1. Average warp crimp percentage 6.7% and

2. Average weft crimp percentage 10.5%.

Remark:
We found that crimp% for warp is less than weft. It is because the warp yarns
are kept in tension during weaving. Besides they are stronger and better yarn
than weft. So they do not extend more. On the other hand weft yarns are kept
in low tension and low in quality. So they can extend more. As a result their
crimp percentage is more. We should notice that variation in crimp can give
rise to faults in fabrics, e.g. reduction in strength, bright picks and diamond
barring in rayons, strips in yarn dyed cloths and so on. So we should control it
which is also necessary for design fabric to give required extensibility. Since
crimp is related to length, it affects the amount of cloth as well as cost of
production.

Conclusion:
I would like to thank our respected teacher for the important instructions. I am also grateful to our
lab assistants for their kind help. This experiment helps me to know about the crimp percentage
of fabric that is very important for textile testing. I think this will be very helpful in my future life.