UNIT 4:- Designing of dress based on figure types- colour

combination, various garment to create optical illusion.

Diamond shape

 Wear tops with wide ‘V’ necklines and hemlines that finish above or below the widest
point on your body.
 Try straight, long tunics that taper at the waist and flare out slightly with darts, side
vents or slits.
 Wear necklines that accentuate your shoulders and bust.
 Wear vertical stripes and colour blocking that shifts the focus inward and elongate
your frame.
 Your ideal skirt is ‘A’ line. It should skim over the bottom, and create smooth, clean
lines.
 Wrap dresses give the illusion of a waist, flatter the bust, and skim over the hips and
thighs.
 Wear soft, flowing fabrics to avoid adding unnecessary bulk.
 Bottoms look best when straight and narrow

Best Colours, Prints and Patterns for Apple Shapes

 Since this body type is rounded all over, you want to opt for colours that provide a
significant slimming effect. Natural black hues fit the bill, but also navy’s, chocolate
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 browns, forest greens, deep aubergine and charcoal gray also flatter your apple shape
just as well. All over colour, such as a monochromatic look is highly appealing
because it instantly slims, but you can certainly wear different colours at once as long
as they don't cut off at the mid-section. In addition, be sure to keep darker colours on
the bottom when combining them with lighter/brighter colours.

 Avoid overly busy prints or patterns because they can easily make you look like a
mass of fabric. Instead opt for subtle prints like horizontal stripes, small polka dots,
hounds tooth and gingham. Prints and patterns tend to complement fuller figures
when placed on the lower half of the body, so take this into consideration as you
select your clothing.

Flattering Fabrics

 The fabric that you choose for your body type is just as important as the clothing
itself. If you select fabric that isn't flattering, it can draw attention to problem areas,
make you look larger and provide a jumbled silhouette. Steer clear of shiny, overly
clingy fabrics that lack a generous amount of stretch, these would include: satin,
spandex, chiffon and rayon. The best fabrics for an apple body type are those that
have substance, lots of room and skim your curves. Matte jersey is one of the best
fabrics, while cotton, wool blends and viscose also works wonders for this body type.
However, you may find that many garments are made from a variety of fabrics, some
you should wear and some you shouldn't -- in this case you must make the choice of
what is the most complementary look for you.

PEAR SHAPES

Creating Balance with Colour and Pattern

 There is a large contrast between the top and lower halves of a pear-shaped figure, so
take note of this when selecting colours, prints and patterns. The small top half of a
pear shape is ripe for the addition of colours from wide ends of the spectrum, so feel
free to experiment. However, the lower half is much more curvy, so it's best to go for
darker shades to slim the rear, hip and thigh area. If you opt for one specific colour all
over make sure that it's falls in the middle in terms of vibrancy.

 The choices for bold prints and patterns are wide open for the upper half of your pear
shape, but the bottom half is best complemented with those that are smaller and don't
add bulk to your curvy lower half. An all over pattern or print isn't advised because it
would draw attention to the larger areas and throw off balance.

Best Fabrics for Pear Shapes

 Form-fitting fabrics are flattering to a pear shape because they equally accentuate
your petite upper body and your curvy lower half. Matte jersey, cotton, polyester-
blends and viscose are all good choices. Fabrics that are overly heavy, like leather,
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 wool and chunky knits that add bulk should be avoided. If you do choose to wear
these fabrics, keep them on the upper part of your body only because they make the
lower half appear larger.

HOURGLASS FIGURES

Colour and Print

 Fortunately, hourglass bodies are very curvy and can wear most any colour, so there
really isn't much to avoid. However, if you are a little more modest when it comes to
your lower half, then you may want to steer clear of extremely light colours on the
bottom half of your body. Colours like white, ivory, cream, light pink, canary yellow
and baby blue could easily make your lower body appear larger. The choice to wear
prints and patterns is pretty much the same as colour; most look good on your figure
because of its ideal proportions, but be mindful that busier patterns and prints will
make the bottom half look larger.

Fashionable Fabric Choices

 The killer curves of this body type should always be highlighted, so any fabric that is
form-fitting is always flattering. Spandex, matte jersey, leather and cotton are just a
few of the fabrics that are sure to have your hourglass curves on full display. Overly
heavy fabrics can be a little overwhelming to your petite upper half, so wear with
caution. Chunky knits and bulky wool should be worn sparingly so you don't get lost
in mounds of fabric.

Best Accessories for Hourglass Figures

 Anything accentuating that small waist is an accessory that you should always
incorporate into your wardrobe. Belts, sashes and ties in tops, dresses, pants or skirts
are all flattering choices. Both high heels and flats are flattering to your hourglass
figure, however if your legs are a little more curvy, you may want to avoid
shoes/boots that cut off at the ankle. Also, if you are short in height, you flats should
contain just a bit of a heel to provide an overall streamlined silhouette.

RECTANGLE SHAPES

Creating Curves

 This body type is all about creating curves, so light and bright colours are welcomed
because they naturally make your body look bigger because they reflect the light.
Dark hues work as well, and will outline your silhouette, but they will slim you down
instead of providing the illusion of curves.

 Prints and patterns also create the same effect as light/bright colours, so give your
rectangle shape a curvier appearance and feel free to wear them big and bold.

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 Rectangle shapes can actually handle bold prints and patterns the best because they
don't have curves to break up the silhouette.

Form-Fitting Fabrics

 Boxy, heavy fabrics like wool, leather and chunky knits don't do much for a rectangle
body shape because they don't hug the body, so the boyish appearance still remains.
By contrast, stretchy fabrics like matte jersey, spandex and cotton, as well as clingy
ones like satin and slilk, skim the body and outline the curves. Since rectangles need
to create the illusion of a waistline and curvy hips, rear and thighs, the tighter the
fabric the better, because it tricks the eye.

Accessories That Flatter Rectangle Shapes

 Belts help to create the illusion of a defined waist, and they can be worn directly on
the waist, slightly above or low-slung on the hips to add needed mass and bulk to an
otherwise boxy figure. Chunky necklaces add bulk to the small bust, while long
earrings open up the neckline. As a rectangle shape, your shoe options are limitless
because heels of all heights look great and flats are quite flattering as well. Even heels
that cut off at the ankles ca be flattering because of your slim leg and ankle area.

PETITE FIGURE

 Women that are short and heavy should choose garments that give illusions of height
and draw attention to the face and hair, e.g. short skirts rather than ankle length skirts.
For short and slim women, shirtwaist dresses and business suits are recommended.
Earrings, necklaces, and hairpieces can also be used to highlight the face, neck and
upper body.

TYPES OF ILLUSION CREATED BY LINE IN DRESS:

 Different lines are mixed in garments. The ways lines are combined produce various,
expected effects. Skilfully used lines can create various visual illusions.
 Lines lengthen an area more or less depending on the direction of line “tails”. When
diagonal lines are added to each end of a straight line pointing towards the centre, it
looks shorter than when the diagonal lines on each end keep the eye moving out.
 A horizontal line and vertical line of the same size when placed together the
horizontal still appears to be small due to illusion.
 A vertical seam or an opening appears longer when it intersects a horizontal belt or
hem.
 In clothing, lines often combined into designs that appear to form an arrow, or the
letters T, I or Y. These configurations cause certain optical illusions. Lines that form
an arrow tend to deflect the gaze downward. They shorten, or reduce the height of a
person. Lines that form a “T” also stop the upward movement of the eye. The height
is again cut, but width is given to the top. Lines that form an “I” tend to give a vertical
feeling that is contained at the top and bottom. They carry the gaze upward and make
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 the body look somewhat taller and thinner. Lines that form a “Y” keep the gaze
moving upward even further. The appearance of even more height is given to the
body with a raised collar or a V neckline.
 Lines spaced far apart make the figure look larger than they are nearer. A panel at the
centre of the dress can create this effect. Also when the lines are bold, they draw the
attention of the looker. Thick stripes create this illusion. They make a person look
larger than they are actually are.

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VISUAL EFFECTS OF COLOUR IN DRESS:

 Colours react with each other and related to each other. The effects they give depend
on how light, dark or strong the colours are. They also depend on how the colours are
combined with other colours in a total outfit. Colours can appear to change the size
and shape of the person wearing them. Dark, cool and dull colours make objects
appear smaller than the same objects in warm, light or bright colours. The receding
colours which make the wearer smaller are black, navy blue, dark blue-violet,
chocolate brown, dull dark green etc. on the other hand light warm and bright colours
make a form seem larger due the colours advancing characteristics. Such colours are
white, yellow, orange and red.
 A single colour for an entire outfit makes a person look thinner and taller. When
combining two colours in an outfit, special precautions are needed. Sharply
contrasting colours appear to shorten the body. This effect can best be used for a very
tall person, dividing the top the bottom of the dress.
 This effect is usually reduced by changing the tone of one or both the colours. White
unites and draws colours together while black separates colours. In most cases one
should not use more than three major colours in an outfit. It is best to use one colour
for a large area and another colour or two for smaller areas. Proper use of colour in a
person’s clothing will enhance his or her personal colouring. Students of Apparel
design need to perceive the light and dark shades of a hue that appear on garments
when folded.
 Colours react with each other and the effects they give depend on how light, dark or
strong the colours are. Dark, cool and dull colours make objects appear smaller than
the same objects in warm, light or bright colours. Warm and bright colours make a
form seem larger due the colours advancing characteristics. Such colours are white,
yellow, orange and red. A single colour for an entire outfit makes a person look
thinner and taller. When combining two colours in an outfit, special precautions are
needed. Sharply contrasting colours appear to shorten the body. This effect can best
be used for a very tall person, dividing the top & bottom of the dress
 When two hues of identical tone are used together, they cause visual ‘clashing’ -
colours appear to jump around because they both compete equally for attention. This
effect is reduced by changing the tone of one or both the colours. In most cases one
should not use more than three major colours in an outfit. It is best to use one colour
for a large area and another colour or two for smaller areas. Students of Apparel
design need to perceive the light and dark shades of a hue that appear on garments
when folded. Colours can create a variety of effects and illusions of dress and the
wearer

1. Single colour or tones of that colour can add height.

2. Floor length garments with single colour make person look tall.
3. Light colour upper garments when teamed with dark colored lowers add height
4. Dark colours recede visually and can be used to give a slim look.
5. Light colours suit skinny people as they tend to give wider look.
6. Bright colours highlight the areas of the body hence should be used carefully.

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