PART 5: Conventional Construction Methods

Conventional building method is defined as components of the building that are pre-
fabricated on site through the processes or timber or plywood formwork installation, steel reinforcement
and cast in-place. Conventional buildings are, mostly built of reinforced concrete frames. The
traditional construction method uses wooden formwork. It is much more costly for construction, which
includes labor, raw material, transportation and low speed of construction time.

Preparation in Construction
Staking Out the Building
A. Staking-out – it is the process of relocating the point of boundaries and property line of the
site where the building is to be constructed.
 Stakes – are wooden sticks used as posts sharpened at one end driven into the ground to
serve as boundaries or supports of the batter boards.
 Strings – are either plastic cords or galvanized wires strung across batter boards and used
to indicate the outline of the building wall and foundation.

Figure 83. Staking-out the building

1. Measure the required setback from the front corner monuments. Drive two stakes and stretch a
string between them to represent the front building line.
2. Measure the required side setback from one of the side lot lines along the front building line. Drive
stake, A which will represent the first corner of the building. From Stake A, measure the width of the
building and mark with stake B to obtain the other front corner.
3. Estimate right angles from stakes A and B and measure the length of the building. In those two
points, drive two temporary stakes C and D, which will mark the rear corners of the building. C-D
should be equal to A-B.
4. Draw lines along the diagonals A-D and B-C and ensure that these are equal.
5. Transfer the building lines to batter boards.
B. Laying the Batterboards
 Batter boards – these are temporary wooden frameworks used to suspend the layout
strings for a foundation. Once erected, the batter boards resemble hurdles. Their
placement is crucial to building a foundation exactly as the plans specify, and certain
elements of their construction must be exact. Properly installed batter boards help ensure
the corners of the foundation are at exactly the right angles and locations.
Batter boards consist of two (2) vertical members and a horizontal crosspiece. The
vertical members usually are two-by-fours, and the horizontals are one-by-fours. The vertical
boards are pointed stakes, which are driven into the ground with a sledgehammer. The
horizontal members are screwed to the verticals.

Figure 84. Batter boards

Foundations usually are made of concrete poured into wooden forms. The placement of
the forms must be exact, or the house will not have square corners or level sides. To
ensure the forms are in the correct locations, long strings or lines are positioned to mark the
edges of the foundation walls. The batter boards provide a stable surface for the
attachment of the layout lines.
Leveling – The most important part of batter board construction is ensuring the
horizontal members are level with one another, because the layout strings rest on the
batter boards. Builders use a transit level to make sure each batter board is at the exact
height required. The most common mistake when erecting batter boards is that the cross
members are not exactly level with each other. There is no margin for error.
 done with a line level or carpenter’s level, or with a transit
 height of the batter boards may be level with or a little higher that the top of the
finished foundation.
 In summary, batter boards are:
 horizontal boards
 establishes height of the footing trenches and foundations
 establishes height of finish floor levels

Figure 85. 3:4:5 Triangle Method

Tools:
 Spirit Level – an instrument or tool capable of vertical and horizontal line check;

Figure 86. Spirit Level

 Plumb Bob – a weight attached to a string, used for vertical line check; it is a weight,
usually with a pointed tip on the bottom, suspended from a string and used as a vertical
reference line, or plumb line. It is a precursor to the spirit level and used to establish a
vertical or horizontal datum.

Figure 87. Plumb Bob

 Plastic Hose Filled With Water – a method of leveling horizontally batter boards without
transit; Water levels are a great way to find a level spot on items like posts or stakes, so one
can build structures that are even and correct. The simple construction and easy setup
make a water level a popular tool to have on-hand for a variety of projects. Making a water
 level is easy with a few household items like tubing and water. One can then use the water
level as needed so you have a level, even structure or item every time.

Figure 88. Leveling using Water hose

1. Step 1: Use 50 to 100 feet (15 to 30 m) of tubing with a 5⁄16 in (0.79 cm) diameter. A
water level is easy to make at home with plastic tubing and a few other supplies. Use a
longer tube to level items that are a far distance from each other. Keep in mind the longer
the tube, the more water is needed.
2. Step 2: Attach one (1) end of the tubing to the flat side of a stake or dowel. Put the stake in
the ground or clamp the stake to the end of a worktable. Use nails or tape to attach the tube
to the stake, making sure the open end of the tube is facing upward. Make sure there are no
kinks or knots in the tube so the water can flow easily through the tube.
3. Step 3: Hold the other end of the tubing and fill it with water. Keep the end at the same
height as the attached end of the tube, filling the tube until the water sits two (2) inches to
three (3) inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) below the attached end of the tube. Check that there are
no air bubbles in the water once the tube have been filled, as this can throw off the level.
4. Step 4: Put one (1) to two (2) drops of food coloring in the water to make it easier to see.
This will make it easier to spot the level of the water in the tube. Another option is to use
windshield wiper fluid in the tube instead of water so the liquid is colored and easy to see.
5. Step 5: Use thumb finger or a cap at the ends to prevent the water from spilling. Move the
water level to another spot so you can use it.
6. Step 6: Bring the water level to the items to measure. The water level is frequently used to
determine the level spot on two (2) items that are at a distance from each other, such as
posts or stakes in the ground. Make sure the items are in the ground or set up on a clamp
attached to a worktable so they are stable and firm. Water level can also be used for
construction projects where one needs to find two (2) level areas on different items that are
close to one another.
7. Step 7: Hold one (1) end of the level against one (1) of the posts. Make sure the open end
faces upward. Place two (2) nails on either side of the end of the tube to keep it in place.
The nails should be just wide enough to catch the tube but not pinch it. One can also use a
clamp on the top of the end of the tube if putting holes in the post or if the item is not made
of wood and cannot be nailed into is not permissible.
8. Step 8: Place the other end of the level against the other post. Keep the thumb over the
open end of the tube so no water splashes out. Then, stand back and see where the water
sits in either end of the tube. Notice if the water appears higher or lower in one (1) end. This
means the spots are not level and there is a need to adjust where the level sits on the posts
so the water levels match.
9. Step 9: Slide the free end of the tube up or down until the level on both ends match.
Continue to check the levels as you slide the free end of the tube. The water should settle
so that it hits the same level on both ends of the tube. If one is leveling items that are more
than an arm's distance away from each other, one may need someone to hold the free end
of the tube and move it to ensure the water levels are correct on both ends.
10. Step 10: Mark the items at the level spot. Once the meniscus, or water line, is level on
both ends of the tube, use chalk or a pencil to mark the spot on both posts and items.
Release the attached end of the tube and use the water level on a different area, setting it
up again with nails or a clamp.
11. Step 11: Make sure there are no kinks or knots in the tubing. Kinks and knots can throw off
the level and result in an incorrect reading. Slide hand over the entire length of the tube
before using it to make sure there are no kinks or knots. A tube that is old or worn may be
more prone to knots and kinks that it may be replaced over time.
12. Step 12: Empty the water level after each use to prevent air bubbles. Leaving water in the
tube for a long period can allow air bubbles to form, which can then throw off the water
levels in the tube. Empty and refill the water level before using it to ensure the
measurements are correct.
13. Step 13: Keep the water level in a shaded, cool spot to prevent liquid expansion. Exposure
to heat and direct sunlight can cause the tube to get too hot, causing the liquid to expand
once it touches the tube.

C. Formworks and Shoring

Formwork or Shuttering is used shape and support fresh concrete until cured and able to
support itself. Formwork in concrete construction is used as a mold for a structure in which
fresh concrete is poured only to harden subsequently. They can also be named based on the
type of structural member construction such as slab formwork for use in slab, beam formwork,
column formwork for use in beams and columns respectively.
 Figure 89. Formworks or Shutters

A good formwork should satisfy the following requirements:

1. It should be strong enough to withstand all types of dead and live loads.
2. It should be rigidly constructed, efficiently propped, and braced both horizontally and vertically,
to retain its shape.
3. The joints in the formwork should be tight against leakage of cement grout.
4. Construction of formwork should permit removal of various parts in desired sequences without
damage to the concrete.
5. The material of the formwork should be cheap, easily available and should be suitable for reuse.
6. The formwork should be set accurately to the desired line and levels should have plane surface.
7. It should be as light as possible.
8. The material of the formwork should not warp or get distorted when exposed to the elements.
9. It should rest on firm base.
Forms for Concrete Construction
In conventional construction, a formwork is needed for the construction of following structural members:
 Wall footing – a continuous strip of concrete that serves to spread the weight of a load-
bearing wall across an area of soil
 Column footing – simply, is a reinforced concrete block, setting up under the earth with a
calculated depth based on the loads affecting the building, the Column is fixed at the footing.
 Column – an upright pillar supporting an entablature, arch, or other structure or standing
alone as a monument
 Wall and corner of wall – is a structure that defines an area, carries a load; provides
security, shelter, or soundproofing; or is decorative.
 RC beams – horizontal member spanning an opening and carrying a load that may be a
brick or stone wall above the opening
 RC slabs – common structural element, consisting of a flat, horizontal surface made of cast
concrete
 RC stairs – a construction designed to bridge a large vertical distance by dividing it into
smaller vertical distances
 Shell roof structure – thin curved membrane or slab usually made up of reinforced
concrete, which can function both as a roof covering and structure
 Dome structure – a rounded vault forming the roof of a building or structure, typically with a
circular base.

Materials used for form construction are:

 Lumber Forms - they should only be partially seasoned.
 Plywood Forms – these forms are used where a smooth surface is required should be
waterproof, Grade “A” and at least ½” thick.

Figure 90. Lumber and Plywood Formworks

  Steel Forms – may be in the form of pans for concrete joist construction or steel decking or
corrugated steel for concrete slabs and slab-and-joist construction.

Figure 91. Steel Shuttering

 Phenolic Boards – Phenolic plywood also known as phenolic film-faced concrete shuttering
plywood is widely used in the construction industry to create the wooden moulds that are used
for casting concrete such as while making the concrete slabs and pillars of buildings. Amongst
the major advantages of using film-faced plywood for concrete casting, is that these boards are
completely waterproof, the concrete does not stick to their surface, and moreover these
plywood sheets can also be reused again after the concrete casting process is
completed.

Figure 92. Phenolic film-faced concrete shuttering

Components of Formworks used in RC Construction

Figure 93. Components of a formwork

Figure 94. Elements of a formwork; (1) Yoke, (2) Bolt, (3) Wedge, (4) Planks for Sides of Column, (5)
Slab, (6) Cross Beam, (7) Main Beam
Figure 95. Form Ties

Shoring is a group of temporary supports designed to carry forms for beams and slab. These
support walls laterally. Shoring can be used when
 walls bulge out, when walls crack due to unequal settlement of foundation;
 repairs are to be carried out to the cracked wall;
 when an adjacent structure needs pulling down;
 when openings are to be newly made or enlarged in a wall
Figure 96. Lumber shoring versus Metal Shoring

Lumber or Wood Shoring

 partially seasoned and to some extent slightly wet in order to prevent swelling and distortion of
the forms;
 dressed at least one side and both edges even for non-exposed surfaces;
 joints in forms for columns, beams, and girders made tight by dressing the lumber true to edge,
forming square or butt joints;
 tight joints in floor and wall panels obtained by using tongue-and grooved stock;
 sizes of lumber used are: 2-in.stock for columns, beams and girder bottoms; 1-in. stock for
floor panels and beam and girder sides; 2x4s for struts, posts, shores, and uprights; 1 or
2-inch stock for cleats;
 crude oil and petroline used to prevent concrete from adhering to the wood and preserve
the forms against damage by alternate wetting and drying; on forms against surfaces which are
to be plastered, wetting with water will be sufficient since oiling prevents adhesion of the
plaster;
 wire ties or bolts and rods are used to hold wall forms together; rods are preferred and should
be arranged that upon removal of the forms, no metal shall be within one inch of any surface;
wire ties should be used only on light and unimportant work where discoloring will not be
objectionable;
 plywood forms used where a smooth surface is required; should be waterproof, Grade “A”
and at least ½” thick.
Steel Forms and Shoring
Shoring is also used to support scaffolding works. Scaffolds are temporary platforms designed
to support workers and materials on the face of a structure and to provide access to work areas above
the ground. Any elevated platform is called a scaffold.

Figure 97. Scaffolding

The major components of metal shoring are:

 The ledger or the horizontal brace
 The brace or the diagonal; this component may be of the adjustable and the fixed type.
 The standard or the vertical component
 Accessories: heads, jacks and bases.
Figure 98. Shoring Components