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PREPARED BY : KANNAN

TEXCOMS TEXTILE SOLUTIONS

KNITTING MANUAL

Spirality
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Table of Contents
Objective______________________________________________________________________3
1. Introduction________________________________________________________________4
2. Skewness and Spirality_________________________________________________________5
1.1 Wale and Course skew_____________________________________________________________5
1.2 Definitions of skewness & spirality___________________________________________________6
1.1 Measuring skewness and spirality____________________________________________________6
3. Causes of Spirality_____________________________________________________________7
3.1. Fibre causes_____________________________________________________________________8
3.1.1 Fibre types:___________________________________________________________________________8
3.1.2 Flexural rigidity:_______________________________________________________________________8
3.1.3 Torsion rigidity:________________________________________________________________________9
3.1.4 Fibre fineness_________________________________________________________________________9
3.1.5 Blend________________________________________________________________________________9
3.2. Yarn causes____________________________________________________________________10
3.2.1 Count______________________________________________________________________________10
3.2.2 Yarn residual torque (Twist-liveliness)_____________________________________________________10
3.2.3 Yarn Twist Multiplier (TM)______________________________________________________________11
3.2.4 Effect of the twist direction_____________________________________________________________11
3.2.5 Conditioning_________________________________________________________________________12
3.2.6 Yarn spinning method_________________________________________________________________12
3.2.7 Yarn bulkiness________________________________________________________________________13
3.2.8 Mechanical properties_________________________________________________________________13
3.3. Fabric causes___________________________________________________________________13
3.3.1 Fabric stitch length or Loop length_______________________________________________________13
3.3.2 Fabric structure______________________________________________________________________14
3.3.3 Tightness___________________________________________________________________________14
3.3.4 Fabric relaxation______________________________________________________________________14
3.4. Machine causes_________________________________________________________________14
3.4.1 Number of feeders____________________________________________________________________14
3.4.2 Direction of machine rotation___________________________________________________________15
3.4.3 Gauge______________________________________________________________________________16
3.4.4 Knitting tension______________________________________________________________________16
3.5. Finishing causes_________________________________________________________________16
3.5.1 Finishing____________________________________________________________________________16
3.5.2 Relaxation___________________________________________________________________________17

4. Remedial Process for Spirality__________________________________________________17


4.1 Compacting:____________________________________________________________________17
4.2 Resin treatment:_________________________________________________________________17
4.3 Heat setting:____________________________________________________________________18
4.4 Balancing yarn twist factor:________________________________________________________18
4.5 Stabilization of knitted structure____________________________________________________18
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5. Conclusion__________________________________________________________________18

Table of Figures
No table of figures entrie found.

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Objective
It is well known that weft knitted fabrics tend to undergo certain dimensional change that causes
distortion in which there is a tendency of the knitted loops to bend over, causing the wales to be
at diagonal instead of perpendicular to the courses. Inclination and distortion of loops within
knitted structures are commonly known as skewness and spirality, respectfully.

Some of the practical problems arising out of the loop spirality in knitted garments are:
displacement or shifting of seams, mismatched patterns and sewing difficulties.Spirality is
particularly serious problem for single jersey knitted fabrics due to their asymmetrical loop
formation and it may exist in grey, washed or finished state and has an obvious influence on both
the aesthetic and functional performance of knitwear.

Skewness and spirality have been subjects of research for almost a century. Models have been
developed for understanding and predicting the loop distortion phenomena. Procedures for
reduction or even elimination of the skewness/spirality have continuously been developed and
improved.Many standards and other testing methods for measuring the skewness and spirality
have been used in research and industrial practice. The uses of many terms describing this
phenomenon have shown the continuous importance of the skewness/spirality problem on the one
hand and the inconsistency of the terminology on the other.

The objective of this manual is to analyse the various studies about the spirality phenomenon and
to understand the various factors influencing the dimensional stability of knit fabrics, particularly
fabric spirality so that ways to select appropriate levels of these factors that result in optimum
dimensional stability can be established.

In this manual we focus


 To know the causes of spirality and their effect.
 To understand the effects of different parameters on spirality.
 To know the effect the spirality on weft knitted fabric.
 Remedial processes for spirality.

እባክዎበዚህሰነድከመጠቀምዎበፊትትክክለኛመሆኑንያረጋግጡ
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1. Introduction 
Knitted fabrics are complex and dimensionally sensitive structures. Variations in material,
structural, process and environmental parameters significantly influence the performances and
comfort properties of knitted fabrics, as well as their qualities. Inclination and distortion of
loops within knitted structures are commonly known as skewness and spirality, respectfully.

They affect both the aesthetic and functional performances of knitted fabrics and knitwear. They
are reflected in an inclination of the lower edge of the knitted garment and/or the
displacement of the side seams to the back and front, mismatched patterns, asymmetrical
necklines, inclined slits, cutting and sewing difficulties, etc.

Some of the practical problems arising out of the loop spirality in knitted garments are:
mismatched patterns, sewing difficulties, displacement or shifting of side seams to the back and
front of the body, garment distortion and inclined lines at striped fabrics.

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2. Skewness and Spirality 


Spirality of knitted fabric is obtained when the wale is not perpendicular to the course, forming
an angle of spirality with vertical direction of the fabric. In other words, spirality occurs in knitted
fabric because of asymmetric loops which turns in the wales and course of a fabric into an
angular relationship other than 90 degree. One of the more investigated distortions within the
knitted structure is the asymmetrical shape of the loop which is reflected in loop inclination YOU
ARE NOT WRITE SKEWNESS HERE,YOU HAVE TO WRITE IT?

1.1Wale and Course skew

Ideally courses and wales should be at right angles to each other.

Ideal knit structure

Spirality of wale and Spirality of course

Skew occurs when wales are displaced from their vertical position; this is known as wale skew.
Skew can also occur when courses are displaced from their horizontal position (course skew).

እባክዎበዚህሰነድከመጠቀምዎበፊትትክክለኛመሆኑንያረጋግጡ
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1.2 Definitions of skewness & spirality

The two terminologies related to the loop inclinations and distortion in knitted fabrics, is given
below.

Skewness: The term skewness is used for the loop inclination / distortion caused by the yarn
twist-liveliness

Spirality: The term spirality is assigned to the loop inclination/ distortions in tubular knitted
fabrics produced by multi-feeder circular knitting machines leading to the formation of spiral
knitting courses.

1.1 Measuringskewness and spirality

Measuring Skewnessin MeasuringSpirality

እባክዎበዚህሰነድከመጠቀምዎበፊትትክክለኛመሆኑንያረጋግጡ
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3. Causes of Spirality
A cause and effect analysis diagram is established to understand the various potential factors
influencing the dimensional stability of knit fabrics, particularly fabric spirality. The analysis of
spirality from strictly experimental view by examining the effects of a number of factors some of
which were machine-related and others were fabric-related on the extent of spirality of knit
structures. Obviously, there are some approaches resulted in many common causes and effects of
this critical phenomenon.

Figure 1 Spirality - Cause and Effect diagram

There are various causes of fabric spirality and they are divided into four main categories:
- Fibre causes
- Yarn causes
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- Knit causesand
- Finishing causes

3.1. Fibre causes

As knit loops are formed by bending and inter looping so flexural rigidity (stiffness) and torsional
rigidity of fibre has considerably affect knitting tension and loop dimension. Different fibres
exhibit different values of both flexural and torsion rigidity. These different values give different
levels of fabric spirality. The key fibre parameters influencing rigidity are density, diameter and
cross sectional shape. Here to write the remedies

3.1.1Fibre types:

Different fibres have different properties like absorbency and elastic recovery vary fibre to fibre,
which have a great impact on fibre relaxation after knit.Spirality has a larger relationship and
variation with the different types of fibre. The cotton fabrics with cotton fibre as
raw material exhibit greater spirality behaviour than made from Polyester fibre. Similarly micro-
denier fibre produces less spirality. Stabilization of knit wear fabrics is difficult if the raw
material is cotton, because it is non-thermoplastic in nature and cannot be heat set to stabilize
knitted fabric dimensions
3.1.2 Flexural rigidity:

It is the property of fibre against flex or bend. It influences the straighten affinity of fibre from
bend form.is this standared ?

Fiber Flexural Rigidity(g/Denier)


Cotton 60-70
Viscose Rayon 4 -30
Wool 3.5
Flax 175
Polyester 40-65

3.1.3 Torsion rigidity:

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Torsional rigidity is the resistance of a textile fibre against torsion force (twisting). It can also be defined
as the torque applied to insert unit twist per unit length of fibre. It influences detwist force of fibre or
yarn.
For a given fibre type, parameters such as fibre fineness, twist level and yarn count can
significantly affect rigidity. A yarn with less rigidity is soft and flexible but balance should be
there otherwise loop distortion during knitting will take place Similarly yarn with low flexibility
together with fabric skew (especially if rigidity developed by high twist level ) is also harsh to
human body

Fibre Specific Torsion Rigidity Shear Modulus x 1010 dynes/cm2


Cotton 7.9 2.51
Viscose 4.7 1.1
Wool 6.7 1.11
Flax 5.8 1.32
Polyester 4.7 0.9

Table 1: Typical values of torsional rigidity of textile fibers .

3.1.4 Fibre fineness

With increase of fibre fineness, twistability of fibre increases. So it is an important factor for
detwist force.Fibre parameters significantly influencing rigidity are density, diameter, and cross-
sectional shape ie Fibre fineness. Among these, the diameter has the greatest impact (flexural and
torsional rigidity are proportional to the diameter of power 4.) as flexural rigidity of fibre is less,
less will be angle of spirality.
3.1.5 Blend

In general, 50/50 cotton/polyester blends have a lower tendency to produce spirality in fabrics
than the 100% cotton yarns. Spirality can be virtually eliminated by using 50/50 cotton/polyesters
blend of air jet and rotor yarns.

3.2.Yarn causes

3.2.1 Count

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Yarn linear density also has influences on fabric spirality. Degree of freedom of yarn movement
in the fabric structure contributes significantly to the increase in spirality.
Dimensional parameters of fully relaxed single jersey fabrics depend on the yarn linear density
and tightness of construction. If diameter is reduced, its resistance to deformation is lowered. It
indicates that, deformation of loop structure is influenced by yarn counti.e, the finer the yarn, the
more will be the spirality due to more twisting.

Coarser counts reduce the spirality. Coarser yarn has more fibres in its cross section; the number
of fibre as well as their radial position partially determines the magnitude of the yarn torque,
partially the fabric spirality.

3.2.2 Yarn residual torque (Twist-liveliness)

The first and the man source of spirality is the twist liveliness of the yarn used. Loop formation
involves both twisting and bending, resulting in twist redistribution in the arms of the loop. If the
yarn is twist lively so that it tends to snarl upon itself, then the loop shape is affected as the yarn
in the fabric is prevented from snarling by its contact with adjacent loops. That mean the yarn
will attempt to rotate inside the fabric resulting in unsymmetrical or local distortion of the loops
causing the whole wale to be inclined. The net result is that all the loops in the fabric take up an
inclined position giving the fabric a skewed or spiral appearance and the wale lines are no more
at right angles with the courses.

It usually works with other factors such as knitting parameters, fabric construction etc. to affect
the magnitude and direction of the spirality. Normally, the bigger the residual torque the greater
the fabric spirality. In details, some aspects determine the yarn residual torque. The first is the
fibre used. The fibre moduli (including tensile, bending, and torsional modules) affect the torque
generated when a straight fiber is curved into a spatial path. During the deformation,the energy is
stored in the fibre, and it will release in the downstream processes.

3.2.3 Yarn Twist Multiplier (TM)

This index is represented by the following formula:


TM = T.P.I. / √N, where T.P.I. indicates twist per inch and N represents yarn count in Ne.
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Write T.P.I HOW TO CALCULATE

The yarn twist was the most predominant factors contributing to fabric spirality. With the
increase in twist multiplier, the angle of spirality increases, similarly angle of spirality increases
with residual torque, hence yarn with higher twist multiplier always produces higher spirality
than a yarn with low twist multiplier. The twist factors of ply and single yarn has significant
effects on the angle of spirality, with the other parameters are keeping constant, increasing twist
factor increases twist liveliness in yarn leading to large spirality angle. .

Two ply yarn with ½ of single yarn twist do not show spirality whereas fabric produced with two
ply yarn 1/3 and ¾ single yarn twist show spirality in Z and S direction respectively and
magnitude of spirality when measured in wet relaxed condition was found to be
increasing.Raising the twist factor of two ply yarn increases the left hand or S-direction spirality,
whereas increasing the twist factor of single yarn increases the right hand or Z-direction spirality.

3.2.4 Effect of the twist direction

Figure 2Directions of twist

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The twist in the yarn is the major factor that has influences on fabric dimensional changes,
partially the fabric spirality. Twisted yarn, its torque direction is deter-mined by the twist
direction. A, Z-twist yarn has an opposite torque direction to the S-twist yarn. Normally, Z-
twisted yarn will cause the knitted loops to learn to the right, resulting in a fabric with a Z
direction of spirality. Alternatively, S-twisted yarn will cause the knitted loops to lean to the left,
resulting in a fabric with a S direction of spirality.The lowest spirality values belonged to carded
S yarn fabric, whereas the highest belonged to carded Z Yarn fabric

The effect of twist direction on spirality versus the machine rotation direction: In order to
minimize spirality, Z-twist yarns should be knitted on machines that rotate clockwise and S-twist
yarns should be knitted on machines that rotate counterclockwise. 

Usually in knitting, low twisted yarns are used. High twisted yarn has a great impact on spirality
due to its unrelieved torque. With the increase in twist, the twist liveliness increases, this in turn,
causes the angle of spirality to increase. The direction of spirality in the fabrics knitted from short
staple ring spun single yarns is determined by the yarn twist direction. Thus, in the technical face
of single jersey fabric exhibits spirality in the Z direction if a Z twisted yarn is knitted.

3.2.5 Conditioning

The minimum Spirality level that can be achieved by several ways such as storing yarn at
appropriate temperature and relative humidity or by thermal conditioning with low temperature
saturatedsteam in vacuum that results in a speedy relaxation. This process balances the twist so
that it does notregain its original state. Autoclave process reduces the twist liveliness associated
difficulties in manufacturing the fabric; it also improves the properties of the fabric. 
However, there is no systematic study carried out to understand the effect of yarnconditioning on
spirality of single jersey fabrics.
3.2.6 Yarn spinning method

Yarn produced by different spinning technique(ring, compact and open-end) has a direct bearing
on spirality of knitted fabric as the physical features of yarns and fabrics produced from these
yarns would be demonstrated different performance properties.
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The spirality angle of the fabric knitted with ring yarns are very high comparing with the fabrics
knitted with open-end yarns. This is due to the reason that the twist direction in open end
spinning is from inward to outward, opposite of the ring and compact spinning. So the amount of
twist is lower at the outer region with respect to the inner region in open end yarns. This means,
the amount of torque created in open end spinning is lower with respect to ring and compact
spinning during the knitting process. Also lower values of twist tendency created by yarn twist in
open end yarns decrease the spirality angle of a fabric knitted by open end yarns.

3.2.7 Yarn bulkiness

Yarn bulkiness increase compactness of fabric, which make loops immobilize in fabric.

3.2.8 Mechanical properties

Mechanical properties like young’s modulus, elastic recovery, tenacity etc. of yarn influence the
spirality of fabric. This is Fabric property not mechanical property.

3.3.Fabric causes

3.3.1 Fabric stitch length or Loop length

As the loop length increases, spirality angle increases. The reason for this behaviour can be
explained by concerning the chanced of loops to turn freely in loose fabric structure.
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3.3.2 Fabric structure

More spirality in single jersey is due to non-arrest of loops. By adding moisture to such a
structure, the twist will try to revert as it swells, that distorts the shape of the loop. In double
jersey, the effect of spirality is nullified. Pique and honey comb also show spirality even if
sometimes two beds are used. Spirality can be noticed in certain jacquard structures. In stripe
pattern, it increases with the size. No appreciable problem of spirality is there in ribs and
interlocks.
3.3.3 Tightness

In general the angle of spirality values are decreasing, when the tightness factor values are getting
tight in the all knitted fabric samples. Tightness factor ranges from 11(for slack fabrics) to 19(for
tight fabrics) and an average of 15 is preferable, which is optimum in general. Slack fabric
presents higher spirality angle compared to tightly knitted fabrics because the loop can easily find
area to rotate so spirality is increasing. At each level of yarn twist factor, the degree of spirality
decreases linearly with fabric tightness factor.
3.3.4 Fabric relaxation

Fabric relaxation (dry and wet) treatment removes the residual knitting tension in the yarn
introduced during the knitting process. The relaxation treatment relieves the residual yarn torque
as a result of changes in the molecular structure and increasing yarn mobility.

3.4.Machine causes

3.4.1 Number of feeders

The number of feeders in a circular knitting machine also influences the angle of spirality. Due to
more course inclination, spirality will be more. The increase of fabric spirality with the number of
knitting feeders at a constant machine diameter is due to the nature of weft circular knitting. A
fabric course knitted in a given feeder has to be inclined with a certain angle in order to permit
the knock over of the row of stitches knitted in the following feeder. This angle depends on the
number of feeders per machine diameter.

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On a single jersey knitting machine, for each feed of yarn one revolution of the machine will
make one course of fabric. The more yarn feeders that are used, the more courses will be created
in one revolution of the machine, which means that the courses are stacked one on top of each
other after each revolution. This creates a spiral line. The distance between the spiral lines
represents the production of courses for one revolution of the cylinder. For example, if one
revolution of the cylinder produces 1.5 inches of linear metres of cloth, then there will be 1.5
linear inches of skew in the course that is generated. Machines with a large number of feeders can
create substantial skew or spirality in the fabric.

3.4.2 Direction of machine rotation

The direction of machine rotation has influence on spirality. For Z twist yarns, the wales go to the
right and thus, giving Z skew and S twist yarns makes the wales go to the left, giving S skew to
the fabric. With multi feed machines, the fabric is created in helix, which gives rise to course
inclination and consequently wale spirality. Direction of spirality depends on the rotational
direction of the knitting machine. Earlier research work revealed that, for a clockwise rotating
machine, the wale would be inclined towards the left, thus producing the S spirality
3.4.3 Gauge

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In knitting terminology, number of needles per inch is called the gauge. Smaller the gauge, lesser
will be the spirality keeping other parameters constant. A proper combination of linear density
and gauge is required to reduce spirality.

3.4.4 Knitting tension


Yarn input tension is mainly maintained for the best knitting performance and it does not
influence the spirality, because of the nature of the fabric structure. In knitting bare minimum
tension is maintained. The best knitting happens at zero tension, which is practically not possible
to maintain. Hence the minimum of 4-6 grams is practiced. In old generation circular knitting
machines and even in the present flat knitting machines, the yarn tension is almost zero. This
does not have any significant effect on the fabric sprilality.

3.5. Finishing causes

3.5.1 Finishing

Finishing helps to reduce the Spirality, only results that can be obtained from data is that the
Spirality decreases by half after dyeing process. Spirality is often corrected by finishing steps
such as setting/treatment with resins, heat and steam, so that wale lines are perpendicular to the
course lines. Such setting is often not stable, and after repeated washing cycles, skewing of the
wales normally re-occurs. If the fabric is then finished in a tubular manner and the wales are not
straightened, then the distortion of the wales will be realized. For open-width finishing, one or
several adjacent needles may be left out of the knitting machine cylinder to create a gap in the
wales of the fabric.

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Fig: spirality of weft knitted fabric

3.5.2 Relaxation

The spirality value generally increases after washing due to relaxation of the residual torque
of the yarn.

4.Remedial Process for Spirality


4.1 Compacting:
Compaction reduces the length of the fabric based on its elongation during processing which, in
turn, reduces the width. It helps in controlling the shrinkage of the fabric. There are two types of
compactors - open and tubular. In tubular compactor, the squeezing line gets on the sides in this
process and is done on natural movement thus controlling spirality. If the wales are straightened
manually then it results in spirality.The open width machines are annexed with few chamber heat
setting to control & arrest the spirality to some extent. In open width compactors, the spirality is
controlled by straightening the wales line and conditioning it in the chamber. The benefit we
achieve in open width is effective in case of fabrics with synthetic components like polyester,
spandex mix, which are heat set in the chambers.

4.2 Resin treatment:


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Cross-linking the fabric by means of inter fibre bonding also reduces spirality. Resin in the form
of aqueous solution is applied and set by passing the fabric through a high temperature stenter.
This method is not recommended for cotton fabrics, since it weakens the cotton yarn.

4.3 Heat setting:


Steam or hot water setting reduces twist liveliness and hence spirality. Mercerization is
recommended for cotton yarns, so that fibres are made to relax permanently. In synthetic fabrics
with twisted yarn, the heat set polymerizes the material and the spirality is reduces. he fabric
with filament yarn is set perfectly for a straight fabric.

4.4 Balancing yarn twist factor:

In an earlier investigation on plain knitted wool fabrics, it was been revealed that raising the twist
factor of a ply yarn increases the left-hand of S-direction spirality of fabrics. But while increasing
the twist factor of a single yarn, there is decrease in left-hand of S-direction spirality with an
increase in right-hand or Z-direction spirality. Thus, there is possibility to balance twist factors
for both ply and single yarns with a view to achieve zero spirality. Experimental study by Chen,
Q H on wool knits indicates that, when the ratio of twist factor of the ply yarn to the twist factor
of single yarn is about 0.73, zero spirality may be achieved.

4.5 Stabilization of knitted structure


The instability of a plain loop, manifested by curling, is caused by the elastic energy of recovery
in the constituent yarns. One solution is to neutralise by structural modification. If adjacent to the
clockwise moment generated in a loop another loop with an anticlockwise moment can be
knitted then the two opposing moments would nullify each other’s destabilizing effect on the
resultant fabric. Rib and Purl structures constructed incorporating such an approach.

5.Conclusion
Main reason of spirality in knit wear fabrics is the presence of residual torque. This residual
torque is responsible for loop displacement, formation of skew. There are other contributing
factors too but the major factor is residual torque. The key conclusions are:-

እባክዎበዚህሰነድከመጠቀምዎበፊትትክክለኛመሆኑንያረጋግጡ
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 Spirality of more than 5° is clearly visible in knitted fabrics, and this is considered to be a
fault.

 As far as the reference of fibres is concerned, it is quite evident that spirality is more
commonly found with cotton fibres so use of blends with cotton will reduce the spirality
to certain extent.

 Fibres blended with different values of flexural and torsional rigidity when used in fabric
or yarn formation produce better results against single nature of fibers.

 Fibres that can be heat set should be used for knitting fabrics as heat setting results in
gelling up of the fibers with the blended fibers giving it a stiffer feel and that helps in
reduction of spirality.

 Low twist yarns should be used for knitting as higher the twist is, more is the tendency of
yarn to untwist, this will lead to significant snarling effect and high dimensional
instability will be seen in case of high twist yarns.

 Fabrics produced with continuous filament are better against the spirality as compared to
synthetic spun yarns.

 Plied yarns are better against the spirality behaviour than the single yarns.

 Thermoplastic fibers should be preferred over other fibers for the reduction of spirality.

 Air jet spun yarns exhibit better performance against spirality problem than the other
spinning techniques for yarn production so recommendation should be use of air jet spun
yarns.

 The spirality is significant in single jersey with cotton yarn due to the the torque factor in
knitting. The best solution is to nullify the torque factor by feeding one ‘Z’ twist and one
‘S’ twist yarn alternatively. This had been in practice where the perfect fabric without
spirality is required. The challenges are producing the S & Z twist from same lot of cotton
and differentiate at spinning stage by the twist direction and avoiding mix up of these two

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yarns upto packing at spinning mills. Producing equal quantity of these two with identical
quality parameters (in terms of count & length), for example 0.5 yarn count difference
will result in 1.5-2.0 % consumption variation in any one of the that yarn used.During
knitting, the challenge is avoiding the wrong position ( to be positioned alternatively in
feeding) on yarn during feeding. Also if any two yarn with the same twist is fed by
mistake in a 30” diameter 90 feeder machine, there will be a band of defect visible in
every 2”. This will become defective till the wrong position of the yarn is identified and
changed. One defective cone will make approximately 200 kg of defective fabric. The
defect is visible only after finishing.

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