COLOUR FASTNESS

Dr.S.GRACE ANNAPOORANI & K.SARANYA

Associate Professor & PhD Research Scholar
Department of Textiles and Apparel Design, Bharathiar University, Coimbatore-641046

Email: saranyakandhasamy25@gmail.com

Color fastness is one of the important factors in case of buyers demand. The outstandingly
important property of a dyed material is the fastness of the shade of color. Color fastness refers
to the resistance of color to fade or bleed of a dyed or printed textile materials to various types of
influences e.g. water, light, rubbing, washing, perspiration etc. to which they are normally
exposed in textile manufacturing and in daily use. We have written a lot of articles on color
fastness. 

Color fastness test

Standards of Color Fastness:

1. AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists) technical manual:

Describes 66 numbers of different color fastness tests.

2. SDC (Society of Dyers and Colorists):

In 1927, SDC (Europe) made fastness test committee.

3. ISO(International Organization for Standardization):

In 1947, ISO made color sub committee. ISO also grades the fastness:
For light fastness: 1~8

For other fastness: 1~5

Factors Affecting the Color Fastness Properties:

1. The chemical nature of the fiber. For example, cellulosic fibers dyed with reactive or vat
dyes will show good fastness properties. Protein fibers dyed with acid mordant and
reactive dyes will achieve good fastness properties and so on. That is to say compatibility
of dye with the fiber is very important.
2. The molecular structure (e.g.) of a dye molecule: If the dye molecule is larger in size, it
will be tightly entrapped inside the inter-polymer chain space of a fiber. Thus the fastness
will be better.
3. The manner in which the dye is bonded to the fiber or the physical form present.
4. The amount of dye present in the fiber i.e. depth of shade. A deep shade will be less fast
than a pale or light shade.
5. The presence of other chemicals in the material.
6. The actual conditions prevailing during exposure.

 Color fastness to washing

 Color fastness to water
 Color fastness to rubbing/crocking
 Color fastness to perspiration
 Color fastness to light
 Color fastness to sea water
 Color fastness to chlorinated water
 Color fastness to hot pressing 

Fastness to Washing:
In the test, change in color of the textile and also staining of color on the adjacent fabric are
assessed. A 10 x 4 cm swatch of the coloured fabric is taken and is sandwitched between two
adjacent fabric and stitched, The sample and the adjacent fabric are washed together. FIve
different types of washing are specified as different washing mthods.

Fastness to Wash

Soap+Soda
Time in Steel
Sr.No Method Washing severity in Temperature
minutes balls
grams/liter

Very mild like

1 IS:687:79 5 30 40+/- 2 Nil
hand wash

5 times severe than

2 IS:3361:79 5 45 50+/- 2 Nil
method 1

3 IS:764:79 Mild washing 5+2 30 60+/-2 Nil

4 IS:765:79 Severe washing 5+2 30 95+/-2 10

5 IS:3417:79 Severe washing 5+2 4 hrs 95+/-2 10

The solution for washing should be prepared to the required temperature of washing. The liquor
material ratio is 50:1 . After soaping treatment, remove the speciment, rinse twice in cold water
and then in running cold water under a tap. Squeeze it and air dry at a temperature not exceeding
60°C. The change in color and staining is evaluated with the help of grey scales.

Theory:

Color fastness to water is designed to measure the resistance to water of dyed, printed, or
otherwise colored textile yarns and fabrics. The test method by which this test is carried out is
AATCC 107-1991 or ISO 105 E01. This method is to assess the degree of cross staining which
may occur when garments are left in contact when damp. The test measures the resistance to
water of any colored textiles. 
 

Color fastness to water

Apparatus:

1. Perspiration Tester
2. Oven
3. Multi fiber fabric
4. Grey scale
5. Color matching cabinet
6. Glass plate or Acrylic resin plates
7. Weight 12.5 kPa or 5kg pressure
8. Glass beaker
9. Stirring rod

Reagent:
Distilled water or de-ionized water is used in this test method because natural (tap) water is
variable in composition.

Sample Preparation:
Cut the specimen & multi-fibre at 10×4cm & sewn together. This is the composite test sample.
Working Procedure:

Wet in distilled water at room temperature & it will suck water.

↓
Place it in acrylic resin plates & put the weight on to the plates.
↓
Keep it in oven & keep the temperature at 37± 2°C for 4hrs.
↓
Open the specimen & dry it in the air hot exceeding 60°C.
↓
Change in color is assessed with the help of Grey Scale.

Color Fastness To Rubbing

A fastness is a place, such as a castle, which is considered safe because it is difficult to reach or
easy to defend against attack. This test is designed to determine the degree of color which may
be transferred from the surface of a colored fabric to a specify test cloth for rubbing (which could
be dry and Wet).

There are two test methods for rubbing fastness.

1.ISO-105-X12 

2.AATCC-08 

In ISO-105-X12 the wet pickup of the rubbing cloth is 100% .While in AATCC-08 the wet
Pickup of the rubbing cloth is 65%.We check rubbing by Dry and Wet methods. In wet rubbing
we wet the rubbing cloth according to test method and give rating by comparing the Staining
with the gray scale.
Similarly for dry rubbing we check the rubbing with dry rubbing cloth and compare the staining
With gray scale for ratings.Color Fastness to rubbing is a main test which is always required for
every colored fabric either it is Printed or dyed.

If the color fastness to rubbing is good then its other properties like Washing fastness and
durability etc improves automatically because the rubbing is a method to check the fixation of
the color on the fabric. So if the fixation is good its washing properties will be good.

Rubbing Fastness depends on: 

 Nature of the Color 

 Depth of the Shade 

Construction of the Fabric Nature of the color Each color either it is pigment, Reactive ,Disperse
or direct has its own fastness properties to rubbing. There are some colors like black, Red,
Burgundy, Navy blue which have poor Color fastness properties because of their chemical
structure.
Like Black color is a carbon base color and the particle size of carbon is large than the other
colors that's why its rubbing properties are poor. Similarly red and blue are in the same case. So
to improve the color fastness we add more binder to improve the fastness properties of these
colors. It doesn't mean that we cannot achieve the best results with these colors. The required
results can achieve but production cost will be increase. On the other hand the construction of the
fabric also effects the fastness properties.

If the rubbing fastness on 100.80/40.40 is 3 on the gray scale it will be 2-3 on 52.52/22.22 with
the same printing parameters. So always keep in mind these effects during finalize the required
parameters with your customer .

Always Check 

 Quality construction 
 Color 
 Depth of the Color 
 End Use of the product
Results which we can achieve in Normal Conditions are
Dark Shade         Medium shades Light Shades

Dry 3-4 4 4-5

Wet 2-2.5 3                               3.5-4                               

Color Fastness to Perspiration

The color fastness to perspiration (acid and alkaline) shall be at least level 3-4 (color change and
staining). This criterion does not apply to white products, to products that are neither dyed nor
printed, to furniture fabrics, curtains or similar textiles intended for interior decoration. A level
of 3 is nevertheless allowed when fabrics are both light colored (standard depth < 1/12) and
made of silk or of blends with more than 20% silk. This kind of test is specially applied for the
sports wear and heavy dresses which is used specially. Normal cloths is also tested by
perspiration test.

The garments a\which come into contact with the body where perspiration is heavy may suffer
serious local discoloration. This test is intended to determine the resistance of color of dyed
textile to the action of acidic and alkaline perspiration. Before knowing about the Color Fastness
to perspiration you must have to know about Color Fastness to Wash and Color Fastness to
Rubbing.
 Perspirometer

Well, in today’s class you will know about the perspiration matters which affects on Color
fastness.

Purpose and Scope

This method is used to determine the resistance of the colour of textile of all kinds and in all
forms to perspiration.

Equipment for Fastness Measurement

1. Perspiration tester
2. Oven, Maintained at 37+-2 Degree centigrade
3. Multifiber test fabric
4. Grey scale
5. Color matching chamber
6. Acidic and Alkaline solution
7. Glass or Acrylic plat
8. Weight.

Reagent for Perspiration Test

1. Solution freshly prepared, containing 0.5g 1-histidine mono-hydrochloride mono-hydrate,

5g sodium chloride, and 2.5g disodium hydrogen ortho phosphate per litre brought to PH
8.0 with 0.1N sodium hydroxide.
 2. Solution freshly prepared, containing 0.5g 1-histidine mono-hydrochloride mono-hydrate,
5g sodium chloride, and 2.2g sodium dihydrogenortho phosphate per litre brought to PH
5.5 with 0.1N sodium hydroxide.
3. Two undyed cloths for each specimen each 6×6cm of the same kind of fibre as the
sample. Place the specimen between the two pieces of white cloth and sew along one side
to form a composite sample.

Working Procedure
Thoroughly wet one composite sample in a solution of PH8.0 at the liquor ratio of 20:1 and
allow it to remain in this solution at room temperature for 30min. pour off the solution and place
the composite sample between two glasses plates measuring about 7.5×6.5cm under a force of
about 4.5kg.

1. Treat the other sample in the same way but with the solution at PH 5.5.
2. Place the apparatus containing the samples in the oven for 4 hour at 37±2C˚
3. Separate the sample from the white cloth and dry them apart in air at the temperature not
exceeding 60C˚
4. Assess the change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the white cloth with the
greigh scale. 

Light Fastness Grades

The purpose of Color fastness to light test is to determine how much the color will fade when
exposed to a known light source. It is an off line quality assurance system. Generally man wears
the fabric and goes outside of the home for doing their job. In day; sun light fall on the fabric
surface. So it needs to know how much protection ability have a fabric to sun light. It is
determined by an experiment called color fastness to light. To measure the color fastness a blue
scale is used. After completing the test, sample is compared with the blue scale.
 Light fastness tester

Principle of Color Fastness to Light:

This test measures the resistance to fading of dyed textile when exposed to day light. The test
sample is exposed to light for a certain time which is about 24 hours to 72 hours or by
customer/buyer demand and compare the change with original unexposed sample the changes are
assessed by Blue Scales.

Grad Degree of Fading Light Fastness Type

e

8 No fading Outstanding

7 Very slight fading Excellent

6 Slight fading Very good

5 Moderate fading Good

4 Appreciable fading Moderate

3 Significant fading Fair

 2 Extensive fading Poor

1 Very extensive fading Very poor

Color Fastness to Light with the Microsol light Fastness Tester:

The testing is done step by step. Following step is maintained during measure the color fatness to
light.

 Cut the four pieces of test specimens according to the length & width wise and attached
with the specimen holder.
 Then the holder set in to the Microsol light fastness tester.
 Then the experiment continued at 72 hours according to the buyer’s requirement.
 After 72 hours later the specimen taken from the light fastness tester
 Then the test specimen compare with the Blue scale or computer color matching system
(CCMS).

Color Fastness to Sea Water (ISO 105 E02)

Theory:

The test method by which this test is carried out is ISO 105 E02. This test in intended to
determine the resistance of the color of dyed textiles to immersion in sea water.
 Color Fastness to Sea Water

Apparatus:

1. Perspiration Tester
2. Oven
3. Multi fiber fabric
4. Grey scale
5. Color matching cabinet
6. Glass plate or Acrylic resin plates
7. Weight 12.5 kPa or 5kg pressure
8. Glass beaker
9. Stirring rod

Reagent:

1. Distilled water or de-ionized water

2. NaCl (30 gm per liter)

Sample Preparation:
Cut the specimen & multi-fibre at 10×4cm & sewn together. This is the composite test sample.
Working Procedure:
Immerse each composite specimen in a separate container of the test solution at room
temperature
↓
Agitate the test specimen to ensure through wet out
↓
Remove the test specimen from the test solution
↓
Lay the test specimen between two acrylic or glass plates and set in the perspiration tester
↓
Adjust the perspiration tester to produce a pressure of 12.5 kPa on the test specimen
↓
 Place the tester into an oven and set the temperature of 37±2 0C for 4 hours
↓
Remove the perspiration tester from the woven
↓
Open out the test specimen (by breaking the stitching on all side except one of the sorter sides, if
necessary) and dry the specimen in an incubator (oven) not exceeding 60 0C.

↓
Change in color is assessed with the help of Grey Scale. 

Color Fastness to Chlorine

Theory:

The test method by which this test is carried out is ISO 105 E03. Chlorinated Pool water fastness
is getting more importance in Terry Towel industry for swimwear and also for yarn dyeing. This
method is designed to evaluate the resistance to Chlorinated Pool Water of any colored textile
substrate. Here, the test specimen is treated in diluted Chlorine solution under specified
conditions of available chlorine content, time and pH condition.

Colorfastness to Chlorinated
Water

Apparatus:

1. Gyrowash
2. Grey scale
 3. Color matching chamber
4. Glass beaker
5. Stainless steel container
6. pH meter

Reagent:
1. Distilled water or de-ionized water.

2. NaOCl solution (100 gm/l, 50 gm/l, 20gm/l of active chlorine at pH 7.5±0.05)

Sample Preparation:

A textile material (Dyed Goods) sample should be cut at 10 cm into 4 cm.

Procedure:

1. Put the specimen into the steel containers and added in the sodium hydrochloride solution with
liquor ratio 1:100 based on the appropriate concentration of active chlorine used.
↓

2. Close the container and put it inti the mechanical device (Gyrowash) and agitate at 27±20C for
1 hour in darkness.

3. Remove the specimen from the container and squeeze it.

↓
 4. Dry the specimen by hanging it in air at room temperature in quiet light.

Evaluation:
Compare the contrast between the treated and untreated sample with Grey scales for changing
color of dyed sample in a color matching cabinet. Numerical rating for color changing is the
shade. 

Color Fastness to Pressing

Pressing fastness test of dyed and printed textile products is performed to determine of resistance
of textiles to ironing and to processing on cylinders. Different tests are performed according to
when the textile is dry, when it is wet, and when it is damp. 

Purpose and Scope:

This method is used for determining the resistance of the colour of textile of all kinds and in all
forms to ironing and processing on hot cylinders. Tests are given for hot pressing when the
textiles are wet, when it is damp, and when it is dry.
Apparatus and Reagent 

 Hand iron of proper weight to give a pressure of approximately 30g/sq.cm at the

temperature indicated in the following ;

1. Cotton & Linen 190-200C˚

2. Wool, Silk & Viscose 140-160C˚
3. Cellulose acetate & Polyamide 115-120C˚

 White bleached cotton cloth weighting approximately 125g/sq.meter. Five pieces not less
than 14×4 cm are required. 
 Gray scale by assessing change in colour and staining.(ISO scale)  
 The size of the specimen is 10×4cm

Working Procedure
Specimen preparation
Specimen of materials, which has been subjected to any heat or drying treatment, must be
allowed to condition at 65% RH, temp. 20±2C˚, before they tested.
Dry Pressing
Place the specimen on the piece of dry cotton cloth on a smooth horizontal surface. Place the iron
on the specimen and leave it for 15 Sec.
Damp Pressing: 
The adjacent fabric in dimensions of 100 mm x 40 mm is immersed into the water and, squeezed
as 100% pick up. Dry specimen is placed onto the undyed cotton fabric on the filler and, the wet
adjacent fabric is placed onto them. The top layer of the device is pulled down and, dry specimen
is pressed for 15 seconds at the determined temperature. The change in color of the specimen is
evaluated in two different ways according to grey scale.
a) Soon after the end of the test

b) After conditioning for 4 hours under standard atmospheric circumstances.

The staining to undyed fabrics is evaluated by grey scale.

Wet Pressing

Soak the specimen and cotton cloth in distilled water and squeeze or extract them to contain their
own weight of water. Place the wet specimen on a piece of the dry cotton cloth and place the wet
cotton cloth on the specimen, press by moving the iron to and fro over the wet cloth (without
additional pressure) for 15 sec.

Assessment
Assess the change in colour of the specimen with appropriate grey scale.
Standard
Dry Pressing 4

Wet Pressing 3-4