Canadian Jeweller - March 2011 Issue

MARCH 2011
for the business of retailing jewellery

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Bridal: smaller
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Quality wins over
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PLUS:
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CJ_ad.indd 3 2/15/11 1:16:06 PM
27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6
T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621
www.midasjewelryinc.ca • Email: info@midasjewelryinc.ca
CJ.Jan11_Midas.indd 2 2/15/11 1:17:13 PM

Whether your needs are simple or elaborate, let Midas be your Source for select Wedding Bands. We specialize in
custom orders, small or large, and are positioned to increase your sales margins. At Midas, we manufacture in all
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CJ.Jan11_Midas.indd 3 2/15/11 1:17:35 PM

Established
EstablishEd 1879 1879 march
January/february 2011 2011
• vol.• 132,
vol . no
132,
. 1 no. 2
Olivier
Olivier Felicio Felicio Editor-in-Chief
Editor-in-Chief | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com
| olivier@rivegauchemedia.com
lucy holdenLucy Holden
Associate Associate
Publisher Publisher | lucy@rivegauchemedia.com
| lucy@rivegauchemedia.com
Carol beslerCarol BeslerEditor
Consulting Consulting Editor
Paul aguirreKatherine
Associate Low
EditorAssociate Editor | katherine@gorgmgo.com
| paul@rivegauchemedia.com
Jessica Uniac Editorial Assistant | jessica@gorgmgo.com
scott Jordan Art Director | scott@rivegauchemedia.com
Elena Viltovskaia
ScottDesigner
Jordan |Art
graphics@rivegauchemedia.com
Director | scott@rivegauchemedia.com
stacy Karjala Designer | material@rivegauchemedia.com
Stacy Karjala Designer | material@rivegauchemedia.com
Elizabeth Valiaho Production
Elizabeth Valiaho Coordinator | production@rivegauchemedia.com
Production Coordinator | production@rivegauchemedia.com
Melanie seth Controller
Melanie Seth&Controller
Operations& |Operations
finance@rivegauchemedia.com
| finance@rivegauchemedia.com
sunjoyo tanto Web Programmer
Sunjoyo | sunjoyo@rivegauchemedia.com
Tanto Web Programmer | sunjoyo@rivegauchemedia.com
Erin Poredos Sales
Erin Assistant
Poredos | erin@gorgmgo.com
Sales Assistant | erin@gorgmgo.com
CONtRibUtORs chris Davey,Martin

CONTRIBUTORS lorraine Depasque,
Irving, Alana Martin
Jankov, irving,
Charles Lewton-
John lamont, charles
Brian, lewton-brian,
Duncan Parker, JeffDonna
Prine,Jean
Bonnie Siegler,
MacKinnon,Briony
Duncan parker,
Smith, lihn
Sarah pham, Dean
Vincett.
sanderson, bonnie siegler.
salEs sales
lucy holdenLucy Holden Associate
AssociAte publisher publisher
tel . (416)
tel . (416) 203-7900 ext.203-7900
6117 ext. 6117
email lucy@rivegauchemedia.com
email lucy@rivegauchemedia.com
Jeff Yamaguchi
Jeff Yamaguchi ADVertisiNG ADVERTISING
sAles Sales
tel . (416)
tel . (416) 203-7900 ext.203-7900
6122 ext. 6122
email jeff@rivegauchemedia.com
email jeff@rivegauchemedia.com
Cassman ADVERTISING
KarolannADVertisiNG
Karolann Cassman sAles Sales
tel . (416)
tel . (416) 203-7900 ext.203-7900
6126 ext. 6126
email karolann@gorgmgo.com
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CMCA
AUDITED
Official magazine of JVC
For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 80

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This information is confidential and may be legally privileged. It is intended solely for the client. Use of this information by anyone else is unauthorized. If you are not the inten
disclosure, copying, distribution or any action taken or omitted to be taken in reliance on it, is prohibited and may be unlawful. When addressed to our customers any informa
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CRÉATIONS
CJ_Mar11_Malo.indd 1 2/15/11 1:18:55 PM

table of
Contents
March
Features
38
Changing Colors
The beauty of colored gemstones can sometimes
be confusing.
42
Family Values
Peter Norton believes quality merchandise and social
responsibility are the key elements of success in
jewellery retailing..
48
42
Platinum’s Time To Shine
From trend alerts to the price of gold, all indications
point to a resurgence in the great white metal.

58
Bridal Boosts Business
Looking at how quality is winning over carats in new
designs for the bridal market.
58
10 CJ march 2011 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 10 2/18/11 1:59:26 PM

One of your best clients
comes to you for
a one-of-a-kind ring.
To bring it to life, you They come to you for the

need a finding that’s
equally unique, so you
go to Stuller.com. ring of their dreams. You come to
us to help make it a reality.
A few clicks, and

it’s on its way,
As a Prime Manufacturer, Stuller
arriving overnight.
offers over 14 categories and 50,000 SKUs,
making us your go-to resource
for findings. We keep them all in stock so

You come through you don’t have to, and we’ll get your
with a true masterpiece.
order shipped and delivered overnight,
guaranteed. To learn more,
You’re delighted
call 800-877-7777 or visit stuller.com.
(though not surprised)
when you get word the
customer was completely

blown away.
CJ.Mar11_Stuller.indd 1 2/15/11 1:20:29 PM

table of
Contents
March
Departments
14 Letter from the Guest Editor
16 Product Showcase
22 Star Watch
24 Who’s News

26 For The Record 54

30 Mining Feature 54 Designer Profile

Baffin Island is an area of great hope for BHP Arun Bohra Designs for Arunashi.
and its junior partner, Peregrine Diamonds.
66 JVC Feature
34 Bench Feature
The tricks of soldering.
70 Industry Buzz
52 Company Profile
24 Gold Group. 74 Showcase
74 Marketplace
80 Fax Back
82 Last Word
22
12 CJ m a r ch 2 0 1 1 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 12 2/18/11 2:49:23 PM

Alternative Metals Innovation
A. B. C. D.
A. B. C. D. E.
by
www.crownring.com
For details, write #107 on Free Info Page, page 80.
CJ_CrownRing.indd 1 2/15/11 1:22:14 PM

letterfromeditorial
The backbone of the

jewellery industry
It is my pleasure to be the guest editor of this issue of
Canadian Jeweller. When asked whom I would select as
the cover for this month’s issue, one of my first thoughts
was Peter Norton of Nortons Jewellers, Charlottetown PEI.
I have known Peter for almost 20 years, and I have always
been impressed with his candour and his openness to change
and new concepts. He is always on the prowl for the next best
thing.
During my tenure on the Board of Directors of the

Canadian Jewellers Association, I had the privilege to get to
know Peter. In addition to running a fine jewellery retail store,
Peter has helped to steer this industry through a period of
great changes. His years of service on the Canadian Jewellers
Association Board and executive have made a difference to
us all. Peter is well respected in our industry, and is known
for always finding the best of the best, whether it’s the best
products, suppliers or people. This, and his untiring service
to our industry and his community have driven his success.
Our industry has seen many changes. Many companies

have come and gone. The independent jeweller continues to
be the heart and backbone of our industry. Peter Norton is
one of our industry’s stars. I would like to acknowledge his
commitment to excellence, and I wish Peter and the Norton’s
Jewellers team many more successful years ahead.
Michele Bankowski
Diamonds of Detroit
Humboldt, Sask.
14 CJ MARCH 2011 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
014.CJ_GuestEditor.indd 14 2/18/11 9:10:08 AM

CJ.Mar11_ImageFifthAve.indd 1
2/15/11 1:23:48 PM
productshowcase
Personal Jewelry Insurance

Order your free Jeweller Guide for a full explanation of the
Personal Jewelry Insurance program from Jewelers Mutual
Insurance Company, the only insurer that specializes exclusively
in protecting jewellery and jewellery businesses in Canada* and
the United States. (*The Personal Jewelry Insurance program is
not available in Quebec.) Also, be sure to order a supply of our
newly designed consumer handout. Exclusively endorsed by the
Canadian Jewellers Association, the American Gem Society, and
the Manufacturing Jewelers and Suppliers of America. For more
information, write 125 on the Free Info Card on page 80.
GIA Reports and Grading Systems

GIA offers a suite of support tools designed to assist retailers in
communicating the 4Cs: the International Diamond Grading
System and the value of GIA Diamond Grading Reports. A report
from GIA provides an expert analysis of the quality of a diamond
based upon the “4Cs” of diamond grading – colour, cut, clarity,
and carat weight. The report also includes a plotting diagram,
which depicts the diamond’s unique clarity characteristics,
such as inclusions. In addition, since GIA is not affiliated with
any commercial enterprise, the public is assured the world’s
most impartial and accurate analysis of a diamond. For more
Metalsmiths Sterling CELTIC Suite

Evoking a mystical and turbulent past, the Celtic suite harnesses
the drama of Irish history. Extraordinarily detailed sterling
silver gently caresses and holds a stunning checker cut stone
that captures the fire and passion of an ancient culture. Sapphire
accents add daring depth to an already bold piece. Available in
Blue Topaz to represent the open sky, Amethyst for royal ties and
Green Quartz for the rolling hills for which Ireland is famous.
$585. For more information, write 127 on the Free Info Card
on page 80.
016-020.CJ_Product.indd 16 2/18/11 9:25:09 AM

“ There were two
guys in hooded
jackets. The first
shoved a gun
into my chest and
pushed us back
into the store.”
davE PagE
hingham jewelers, boston
dave feared for his life.

fortunately, once the ordeal
was over, he didn’t have to
fear losing his business.
jewelers mutual was there to
help him reopen his doors.
watch dave tell his harrowing

story and learn more about
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Coverage you can count on.

People you can count on.
For a free, no obligation quote, call Jewelers Mutual at 800-558-6411 or e-mail YourInsuranceExpert@jminsure.com
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CJ.Mar11_JewellersMutual.indd 1 2/15/11 1:25:18 PM
Nova Diamonds
After much experimentation, Nova Diamonds found the
perfect blend of curvature and subtlety studded with black
and white diamonds in an 18-karat white gold setting. With
a total of 11.20 carats of stones this ring is sure to impress
all jewellery lovers. For more information call Nova @ 416-
868-6682. Ref #: LF8-1650. For more information, write
128 on the Free Info Card on page 80.
PH Design
This stunning trio of hand-crafted bangle’s can be worn as
an elegant single or together to make an impressive, on-trend
statement. (Bangles shown in 10 mm wide 18kt white gold bangle
with 6ct of micro pave set diamonds and 4mm wide 18kt pink
or white gold bangle with 2.75 ct of micro pave set diamonds.)
For more information, please schedule an appointment or visit
us online at www.phdesign.ca. For more information, write 129
on the Free Info Card on page 80.
Watches
Black Crown Diamond watch collection expresses the
PANDORA philosophy in its entirety with genuine
materials and inspirational designs that celebrate personal
style and individual expression. The range of premium
Swiss made timepieces is based on aesthetic simplicity and
beautiful classic elements with interchangeable straps and
bezels to create a variety of dazzling combinations to suit
every occasion. For more information, write 130 on the
Free Info Card on page 80.

productshowcase
JCK Las Vegas

Be a part of the rejuvenated buying experience at JCK
Las Vegas. Effortlessly compare related prices and shop
more efficiently with enhanced show floor navigation and
smartly organized product groupings. Come experience a
new JCK at Mandalay Bay Hotel and Convention Center,
June 3-6, 2011. Visit www.JCKLASVEGASSHOW.com for
more information. For more information, write 131 on the
Bold, Beautiful Color from Stuller

Color conveys a lot about a person, whether she is a firestorm
looking to steal the limelight or a trendsetting fashionista whose
wardrobe choices change on a whim. Subtle or extreme. Lights
or brights. It’s up to you to help your customers choose their
own unique color palette of jewelry. And Stuller is your go-to
resource to ensure an accessible match every time. For more

June and September edition serves as a comprehensive
platform to advocate the jewellery trade every year. A
strong track record of excellence has made both events
a prominent fixture in the global jewellery trade’s events
calendar. Save the date and plan your visit now! www.
JewelleryNetAsia.com. For more information, write 133 on
the Free Info Card on page 80.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m march 2011 CJ 19

productshowcase
Introducing the Ashley Anne Collection

from Midas Jewelry
We now offer engagement rings and matching bands in addition
to our vast selection of wedding rings. This collection of bridal
sets will please even the most discerning bride-to-be. Each set
is exclusively designed to fit the personality, style and taste of
future brides. To see the full collection and our wedding bands,
visit midasjewelryinc.ca. For more information, write 134 on
the Free Info Card on page 80.
Breanna Collection:
Breanna represents the women who believes she is special as
she is. Determined, passionate about life, design and perfection,
Breanna is what every woman wants to be. She has found
the love of her life and now needs to choose The Ring. But
how to find the perfect ring in a crowded market place where
everyone claims to have the perfect ring for you. That is why
we designed the Breanna Collection. A collection where every
model is unique. Every future bride will find a ring that will
fit her personality and taste. Come to the world of Breanna
and join the women who enjoys the beauty and quality of this
magnificent collection. For more information, write 135 on the
Image Fifth Avenue

Set with a very fine Malaya garnet that changes colour of 11.5
ct. this ring in 18k white and yellow gold has been set also with
white and fancy natural yellow diamonds ,total weight 1.25ct. is
a good example as to how a nice colour stone can be presented
to enhance its value. For more information, write 136 on the

Canadian Jeweller ISSUE: Specs: 9” x 10.875” MATERIALS: PDF/X1A
ATTN: Elizabeth Valiaho, Production Manager • Rive Gauche Media • 60 Bloor St West Ste. 1106 • Toronto ON M4W 3B8
Sooner or later, the world’s most

extraordinary gems will cross paths with
RAHUL KADAKIA.
Here, Christie’s Senior VP, Head of Jewelry Americas,
shares priceless insight into the jewelry business
and the value of an expert education.
A master eye for gems … born or made? Coming from four generations of jewelers undoubtedly piqued my interest in this great business. But one needs to
constantly train their eye by looking at gems – the more you learn, the better you will be at identifying and pricing gems, as well as being an effective salesperson and
well-rounded businessman.
Something most people don’t know about you. GIA is what brought me to Christie’s. After studying in Santa Monica, I attended a GIA Career Fair where I had
my first interview with the company.
Ok. Definitely a story there? I started work when I was 17 and five years into it, I thought I knew pretty much everything there was to know … until I enrolled at GIA.
The Institute’s meticulous training and high standards exposed me to a whole new world of expertise.
Ultimate sales edge … emotion or expertise? Jewelry is an emotional shopping experience, but expertise plays a decisive role. It’s wonderful to show people
a brilliant diamond, but it means more when you can follow up with a skillful explanation of the 4Cs exemplified in that particular gem.
Lean economy. Less jewelry? At the nexus of the downturn in late 2008, we sold the Wittelsbach Blue Diamond for $24 million, a world record price back then
for any gem ever sold at auction. When you have great gems and jewels, the money makes itself available.
Any advice to young Turks? Don’t lose the passion that brought you to this business, and above all,
keep learning every day.
GIA gratefully acknowledges those who, for 80 years, have used our resources to further
world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU
AGENCY: The Shand Group, Chris Weakley 805 969 1068 x113 PRODUCTION CONTACT: Melissa Helvey 805 969 1068 x119
ADVERTISER: GIA ISSUE: Canadian Jeweller
CanadianJeweller_FNL.indd
CJ.Mar11_GIA.indd 1 1 2/15/11
1/31/111:32:40
12:47 PM
PM
Celebs love jewellery
Shimmering at the 2nd Annual Governor’s

Awards held in Hollywood late last year, Marisa
Tomei wore two Amrapali square silver and
diamond bracelets ($16,000 each) paired with
two Bavna silver and diamond bracelets ($5,900
each). Seems the square bracelet is a big favorite:
Rihanna wore two matching Amrapali square
Movie premieres always call for some glittering Paris Hilton dazzled in Brumani’s Candy Rose silver and diamond bracelets to the AMA’s in
accessories. Making a bold fashion statement at earrings to NBC Universal’s Golden Globes November, and complemented her hands with a
her Country Strong screening in Los Angeles in after-party at the Beverly Hilton Hotel. The Neil Lane diamond navette-shaped ring set with
December, Gwyneth Paltrow wore a Bavna ring earrings were white gold with white diamonds, 34 cushion cut diamonds, set in platinum and
in 18k gold and silver with diamonds ($5,500). with smoky and pink quartz ($6125.00). 18k gold ($17,500).
022-023.CJ_StarWatch.indd 22 2/18/11 9:55:39 AM

starwatch
Taylor Swift is always a fan favourite but

Always a fashion setter, Jennifer Lopez chose at the People’s Choice Awards, she was a
Rina Limor’s 18k gold and silver earrings, standout,wearing Amrapali jewels. The
Anna Faris was certainly animated in her choice set with diamonds ($16,000) during a recent country superstar chose Amrapali’s 14k gold
of Amrapali’s 14k gold and silver diamond American Idol panel. And in keeping with her and diamond Victorian earrings ($800). Also
earrings ($10,010) for the premiere of Yogi Bear fashion sense, Lopez, escorted by hubby Marc showing off some jewels at the People’s Choice
3D in December. At Winona Ryder’s premiere Anthony, wore an array of Amrapali 14k gold Awards and choosing Amrapali stunners, was
for Black Swan in Hollywood, the actress arrived with rose-cut diamond bangles ($5,870) to the Kourtney Kardashian, opting for the designer’s
decked out in Neil Lane’s black and white Latin Grammy Awards held in Las Vegas. Seems diamond starburst earrings ($10,370). The gold
diamond and platinum earrings and diamond, these bangles have become an instant celeb and silver earrings, accented with diamonds,
onyx and platinum bracelets. favorite for their easy elegance and chic glitz. were a definite compliment to her brunette hair.
Note: All prices in $US amounts unless otherwise stated. w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m MARCH 2011 CJ 23
022-023.CJ_StarWatch.indd 23 2/18/11 9:56:40 AM

who’snews
Find out who is making headlines

in the jewellery industry.
into the jewellery business, but when the war

broke out he joined the officer’s training plan at
the University of Toronto.
After the war, and before returning to Toronto, Breitling signs Gretzky
Lieutenant-Colonel Levenston stayed on first Watch brand Breitling has snagged The Great
in Germany and then went to the Netherlands, One as it new ambassador. Wayne Gretzky will
where he soon struck up a friendship with the star in the brand’s advertising campaign for
curator of the Kroller-Muller Museum. Before North America, posing beside a de Havilland
the war, he had been editor of the arts magazine Canada DHC-2 Beaver classic monoplane,
Lieutenant-Colonel, Jeweller at the University of Toronto and the curator and wearing a Breitling Chronomat 01, a
Lieutenant-Colonel Gerald Levenston, who sought his help in retrieving a collection of high-performance self-winding chronograph.
died in Toronto on Dec. 21, at the age of 96, about 260 works of art, at least 100 by Vincent Gretzky has four Stanley Cup Championships
was with the 2nd Canadian Corps in the van Gogh, which were hidden in a manmade to his credit, as well as 61 NHL records, and
final days of the war when the German unit cave. In 1945, Levenston led a mission to has been named 18 times to All-Star teams. His
they were fighting indicated it was ready to retrieve the Dutch art treasures and return them famous jersey number 99 has been retired by all
surrender. After the war Levenston returned to the museum. The Dutch curator knew where NHL teams.
to the jewellery business and became president they were – they had been hidden just before the
of Baumgold Brothers of Canada, a subsidiary German occupation – but he needed transport Epstein to lead AWDC
of an American company that specialized in and men to move them. “I simply asked the Ari Epstein has been named chief executive
importing diamonds to sell to retailers. His son men and they went right to work as a voluntary officer of the Antwerp World Diamond Centre.
said his father always carried a revolver in his effort,” Levenston told an interviewer in 1961. Epstein has served for two years as the AWDC’s
briefcase, but he wasn’t certain if it was a Luger deputy CEO, having joined the organization
he brought home from the war. On a trip to a Levenston was at one time a trustee of the in 2005 as director of the Diamond Office,
jewellery convention in Vancouver in 1948, he Royal Ontario Museum. Through his wartime which provides customs services on behalf
met a young woman named Ruth Koenigsberg connections with the Dutch museum he had of the Belgian government. A lawyer by
and fell in love on the spot. They were married helped, he was instrumental in arranging an training, before joining the diamond sector,
after a four-day courtship and stayed married exhibition of 140 Vvan Gogh paintings at the Epstein specialized in international taxation
until her death in 1992. Art Gallery of Ontario in 1961. Levenston was and corporate law. Discussing the role of the
an anglophile all his life. For decades he had AWDC, which serves as the primary umbrella
Gerald Frederick Levenston was born in a subscription to Country Life. At home he organization and service provider for the
Toronto in 1914. His parents were immigrants always dressed for dinner and sat afterward Antwerp diamond industry, Epstein says its
from Britain, where Levenstons had lived in his library reading and compiling his own chief responsibility is to facilitate business
since the 18th century. There is a mention of detailed archives of the war. When he retired, and create opportunities. “Antwerp has led
a Levenston from his family in James Joyce’s he became a boulevardier on the Yonge Street the world diamond industry for generations,
novel Ulysses. His father was a successful strip in Rosedale, having coffee with friends and I see AWDC’s role as maintaining and
jeweller, but was wiped out in the crash of and then lunch in restaurants such as Lakes. enhancing its leadership status in the next
1929 and died soon afterward. Young Gerald He had lost his animosity for the Germans, decade and beyond. The AWDC must represent
switched from a private school to the public and one of his closet friends was a German the diamond industry in its position as a major
Vaughan Collegiate. At the University of immigrant who had been a boy during the contributor to the Belgian economy and a key
Toronto he took an honours degree in English war. He leaves two sons and a daughter, four to growth and employment in many regions
and Philosophy. Soon after graduating, he went grandchildren and one great-grandchild. around the world.” [CJ]
024.CJ_WhosNews.indd 24 2/18/11 9:46:52 AM

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news | trends | events
Gold still soaring could offset a decline in sales at middle quarters, rising 2.6%, 11.5%, 5.1% and 7.5% in
Gold demand fell slightly in the first nine and lower price points when all figures are the first, second, third and fourth quarters,
months of the year in the U.S., according to tallied for the fourth-quarter, although sales respectively. Gold demand for jewellery
a recent report by the World Gold Council. volumes are still expected to register below use rose 18%, to 1,468 tons, in the first nine
The WGC’s Gold Investment Digest for the 2009 levels. Globally, increased investment months of 2010, compared with the same
fourth quarter and full year 2010 notes that demand and a rise in jewellery consumption, period in 2009, according to the report.
the value of gold jewellery imports declined particularly in China and India, continued
8% in September year-over-year, an indicator to push the price of gold upward in 2010, Fire sale on Italian jewellery firms
that jewellery retailers were trying to manage the report notes. For the year, the price of Cash-rich investors from emerging markets
gold inventory levels tightly for the holiday gold rose 29.2%, to US$1,405.50 an ounce by could follow U.S. billionaire Warren Buffett
season as prices rose toward the end of the December 30, marking a decade of continual in buying top quality but crisis-hit Italian
year. According to the report, there was increases. The average gold price rose jewellers, attracted by good bargains and
an increase in sales of gold pieces priced at 25.9%, from US$972.35 an ounce in 2009 to the export appeal of “Made in Italy” brands,
$1,000 and up, as affluent consumers released US$1,224.52 an ounce in 2010. On a quarter- according to Reuters. U.S. jewellery maker
pent-up demand. The World Gold Council by-quarter basis, gold prices increased and distributor Richline Group, a unit of
estimates that these high-end purchases most dramatically in the second and fourth Buffett’s Berkshire Hathaway, said in January
that it planned to buy Italian gold jeweller
Rosato to expand in Europe. India’s largest
jewellery retailer, Gitanjali Gems, is set
to buy Stefan Hafner, IoSi, Porrati and La
Nouvelle Bague. Italy is the world’s biggest
jewellery exporter and a leader in design, but
its market share has shrunk since the early
2000s as rivals from lower-cost India, China
and Turkey advanced. Lately the global
economic crisis dealt the sector a heavy blow.
Gitanjali, with revenue of US$1.55-billion in
2010, plans to spend about US$21-million on
the four brands it is buying in Italy. It aims
to add between US$100-million and US$150-
million to its revenue in 2013 from its Italian
assets.
International Gem Tower

Construction Update
Construction of the International Gem
Tower, New York City’s only commercial
condominium designed specifically for the
international diamond, gem and jewellery
trade, is on schedule for completion in 2012.
The tower, situated in the diamond district,
Ivanka Trump in Canada will rise rapidly over West 47th Street over
Henry Birks & Sons’ flagship store on Bloor Street in Toronto is now carrying the next few months. G4S, an international
the Ivanka Trump fine jewellery collection, exclusively in Canada. Ivanka Trump security solutions group, is completing the
launched her fine jewellery collection in September 2007 with a flagship store design of the tower’s state-of-the-art security
in New York City. In March 2010, the company launched its global expansion system. There will be a construction hotline
through partnerships with exclusive retailers throughout the U.S., Asia and the for neighbors and others in the industry to
Middle East. provide an update on current and future
activity on the site.
026-028.CJ_FTR.indd 26 2/18/11 9:52:04 AM

fortherecord
WFDB to meet in Dubai

Symposium speakers lined up
The World Federation of Diamond Bourses
GIA has announced the following speakers
has launched a dedicated website (www.
for the business track of its 2011 Symposium,
presidentsmeeting2011.com) for its 2011
to be held in May 29-30 at its Carlsbad,
WFDB Presidents’ meeting, to be held April
Calif., headquarters: Scott Galloway, founder
11-13 at the Jumeirah Meydan Hotel in
of Red Envelope and clinical associate
Dubai and to be hosted by the Dubai Multi
professor for New York University’s Stern
Commodities Centre (DMCC) and the Dubai
School of Business, will present “The New
Diamond Exchange (DDE). “Dubai’s diamond
Rules of Engagement – Finding and Keeping
imports and exports doubled in volume by the
Customers in the Digital Age”; Dilip Mehta,
end of 2010 - a year that saw the recovery of the
CEO of Rosy Blue Group and Douglas
world diamond industry and is a harbinger for
Hucker, CEO of the American Gem Trade
an upward trend in 2011, says WFDB president
Association, will review diamonds and
Avi Paz.
colored stones in a panel on “The Future of Gemstones and Gemstones of the
Future”; Wallace Chan, world-renowned jewelry designer, will present “Jewellery
Rio Tinto joint venture seeks
Design – From the Masses to Museums”; Stuart Robertson, a gemstone
diamonds in Congo
research and pricing expert, on “Putting Gemology to Work in Your Business”;
BRC DiamondCore and mining giant Rio
Ken Royal, senior client service manager of Gallup, will lead a panel discussion
Tinto have entered into a joint venture to
on “Marketing Luxury – Creating Brands for a Brave New World”; and Gary
explore for diamonds in the Democratic
Schuler, a senior vice-president for Sotheby’s and head of the company’s
Republic of Congo, miningweekly.com
lewellery department since 2002, will headline the panel “Everything Old is New
reports. Under the terms of the agreement,
Again
MCD Pearls–Ad
The Appeal
layout of Auctions,
1/20/11 Estate
6:09 PM Page 1 and Vintage Markets.”
Rio Tinto will fund the exploration at the DRC
North diamond project up to the stage of and
including a feasibility study, and would gain a
70% interest in the project.
WJA annual awards dinner

The Women’s Jewellery Association will
honour several members at its annual Annual
Awards for Excellence dinner in New York
City in July. Honorees include Varda Shine
of the Diamond Trading Company (Hall of
Fame award), Matt Stuller, Stuller (Ben Kaiser
award) and Helzberg Diamonds (Corporate
award). At the July 25 event, WJA also will
present Awards for Excellence in retail, design,
manufacturing/ supplier, sales, marketing
and communications, editorial/reporting/
publishing, and special services. The 2011
event is chaired by Michelle Peranteau of
Platinum Guild International. WJA, founded

in 1983, is the preeminent association of MCD Pearl Imports
professional women in the jewellery, watch A selection of pearl strands,
loose pearls and pearl jewellery
and related businesses. Through the national
organization, a network of 12 regional 27 Queen St. E, Suite 703 Toronto, ON M5C 2M6
chapters and an international affiliate chapter T (416) 368-2690 • F (416) 368-2426
in India, members benefit from educational Email info@mcdpearls.com
and networking opportunities, scholarships,
design competitions, annual women’s business
conferences, and recognition programs,
such as its annual Awards for Excellence
gala. Visit the association’s web site at www.
womensjewelryassociation.com
026-028.CJ_FTR.indd 27 2/18/11 9:53:35 AM

Rapaport hails recovery Large, very expensive, high-quality points and the Expectations Index increased
The diamond markets recovered in 2010, diamonds did even better, as did small, to 80.3 points from 77.3 points one year
as significant increases in consumer inexpensive diamonds whose prices ago. Meanwhile, many public jewellery and
demand from India, China and Far East increased 57% at Rapaport auctions. watch companies are reporting double-digit
markets, as well as a relatively healthy U.S. sale increases, including Bulgari (+21%, Q4,
holiday season supported higher prices, “While the U.S. recovery will take time, 2010), Swatch (+19% for 2010), Richemont
according to a report released by Martin the global diamond markets are well Group (+20% for Q3 ending Dec. 31).
Rapaport, industry analyst, publisher and positioned for growth in 2011,” says Martin
dealer. Liberal U.S. monetary policies Rapaport, chairman of the Rapaport Group. KP reaches tentative agreement
have encouraged global consumption and “Western governments will continue with Zimbabwe
stimulated the market for inexpensive liberal monetary policies, providing short On 17 January 2011, member governments
diamonds, says the report, and have also term artificial stimulation that promotes the Kimberley Process agreed to a document
created currency uncertainty, inflationary global consumption. In the medium term that would allow for the recommencement
expectations and surging gold prices that we expect near zero interest rates to result of exports from approved concessions
have encouraged investment demand for in an inflationary cycle that will create in the Marange region of Zimbabwe,
diamonds. Overall polished diamond prices unprecedented currency uncertainty and according to the World Diamond Council.
and trading volumes have returned to early support demand for diamonds as a store of The approval is subject to agreement on
2008 pre-recession levels and stabilized value.” Rapaport also cautions that markets continued oversight and monitoring.
during the second half of 2010. Certified will be volatile and that interest rates will Before exports can resume, the authorities
polished diamonds prices increased 10.3% eventually surge, as governments fight in Zimbabwe need to complete a series of
on RapNet - Rapaport Diamond Trading inflation and higher interest rates could consultations with Mathieu Yamba, chair
Network, with half carats up 4.1%, one carats have a very negative impact on diamond of the Kimberley Process, representing
up 12.3% and three carats up 24.6%. demand and pricing. “The trade is advised the Democratic Republic of Congo. In
to enjoy the ride as long as interest rates the meantime, the WDC says that until a
remain low, avoid speculation and maintain conclusion is reached, exports of stocks and
liquidity,” says Rapaport. production from the approved concessions
in Marange do not carry the approval of the
Certified polished diamond average asking Kimberley Process.
prices increased 1.6% on RapNet – Rapaport
Diamond Trading Network in January, Tucson GemFair reports brisk
with half carats up 1.3%, one carats up 3.1% show business
and three carats up 0.3%. Prices of small, The American Gem Trade Association
inexpensive diamonds at Rapaport Auctions reports a “double-digit” increase in buyer
also strengthened during the month. attendance on the opening day of its annual
Average prices on RapNet were 11.7% above AGTA GemFair in Tucson. “We are pleased
COLOUR CATALOGUE levels seen a year ago, at the end of January to be able to share such positive results for
2010. Supply shortages are spurring higher the start of our show,” says Doug Hucker,
THE SYSTEM prices in rough and polished diamonds. AGTA CEO. “Buyers are returning to the
STE
M T HE S Y
S De Beers kept prices stable at the January trade shows and they know that the AGTA
SY TE
T
H
E M
Diamond Trading Company (DTC) sight, GemFair in the best colored gemstone and
T
which influenced higher prices on the cultured pearl experience in the industry.”
H
M
SILVER
TE
secondary market and has fed expectation The day closed with an event celebrating the
SY
S
M TH E S Y
STE
that a DTC price hike is imminent in thirtieth anniversary of AGTA, sponsored

JEWELLERY
M TH E S Y
CHAINS BRACELETS EARRINGS

February. by the City of Tucson. Attendees and
PENDANTS RINGS BANGLES exhibitors packed the new East Entrance
STE
LOCKETS CUBICS... Recession over? of the Tucson Convention Center, while a

SY
TE S
DISPLAYS U.S. consumer confidence rose seven mariachi band played. Scottish gemologist
E
M
H
per cent to 60.6 points this January, Alan Hodgkinson was presented with
T
H
E
EM SY
compared with one year ago, according the Leon Ritzler Memorial Honorary
ST STE
M T HE S Y
to the Conference Board. The benchmark Member award and recently retired Gems
THE SYSTEM reading of 100 points in 1985 signals strong & Gemology editor-in-chief Alice Keller
TOLL FREE 1•800•661•4460 optimism, and this was last achieved in was recognized for her outstanding
1670 MILLS RD, SIDNEY BC V8L 5S9 August 2007. The Present Situation Index contributions to the colored gemstone
in January improved to 31 points from 25.2 industry.
026-028.CJ_FTR.indd 28 2/18/11 9:53:49 AM

fortherecord
Trends and issues in Vicenza

Vicenzaoro First, the first of the three jewellery
shows held annually in Vicenza, Italy, opened
to over 32,000 enthusiastic buyers in January.
Most buyers hailed from Europe (14,858),
which is recovering well from the recession.
About 640 buyers came from the Middle East,
and 722 buyers came from America.
The fair included a forum touting the “Made in

Italy” brand. “The market course is changing,
and the Italian jewellery sector must orient
itself towards new directions,” says a statement
from the fair. “Craftsmanship, manufacturing,
innovation, and new communication comprise
the competitive edge of “Made in Italy,”
representing the added values of Italian jewellery
that will serve as a springboard for launching
such excellence throughout the world.” Tiffany. The mine, a project of Northern Dynasty power, diamonds are once again the stars in the
Minerals and Anglo American, a shareholder latest creations from jewellery designers. This
Reflecting the quest for social and in De Beers, would be the largest open-pit precious stone cannot only be found in rings
environmental responsiblity in the global mine in North America. It has not yet received but also in earrings, pendants, brooches and
jewellery industry, more than 120 participants formal approval. Anti-mine campaigners claim necklaces. It is perfect on its own or combined
at the show attended a seminar on corporate it will generate up to 10-billion tonnes of toxic with other gems, such as rubies or sapphires, and
social responsibility (CSR), conducted by the waste that would be disposed in the Bristol Bay also with pearls of different colors.
World Jewellery Confederation Education watershed, a major source of wild salmon. The
Foundation and organized by the global gem mine’s proponents argue it will bring jobs and 4. Colored stones
and jewellery trade association CIBJO and economic growth to the area. Colored stones and sparkling nuances
Fiera di Vicenza. The seminar highlighted distinguish the new products. Jewellery artists
the cooperation that has developed between Trends at the Vicenza fair included: are using precious stones with faceted cuts and
CIBJO and the United Nations and traced the 1. Nature details. Designs are smaller: massive forms
development of CSR in the jewellery industry The theme of nature continues to dominate the are out of bounds so that the new creations
from the start of the conflict diamond crisis new collections from stylists and artists: leaves, become innovative jewels that can be worn at
at the end of the 1990s to the industry’s animals and, above all, flowers. With inspiration any time. [CJ]
commitment to the United Nations to help from the ’50s, earrings, rings and necklaces
fulfill its Millennium Development Goals transform themselves into buds
(MDG). and leaves.
Speakers included CIBJO president Gaetano 2. The new gold: silver

Cavalieri, Jocelyn Fenard, chief of partnerships Given the sky-high price of gold, artists
and resource mobilization of the United Nations have been prompted to consider and choose
Institute for Training and Research, Hanifa other materials for their creations: silver has
Mezoui and Francois Loriot. In addition, triumphed and is considered to be the new
Irene Pivetti, former president of the Italian gold. This metal, characterized by an elegantly
parliament and Pilar Coin, president of the glacial tonality, has been chosen to forge new
Women’s Jewellery Association of Italy, spoke on jewels, including bracelets in rigid spirals or
the implementation of CSR principles in their in bands. The trend for artists is to focus more
respective fields. on the design of the objects: free hand with the
working approach, with mesh or using particular
In a related CSR story, more than 50 jewellers techniques which transform every creation into
recently not to use gold from the proposed a unique item.
Pebble Mine in Southwest Alaska’s Bristol
Bay. Among the jewellers who have joined the 3. Diamonds are forever Gold, diamond and rutilated
quartz ring by Roberto Coin,
campaign are Zale, Helzberg, John Hardy and Forever considered to be a symbol of wealth and
presented in Vicenza.
026-028.CJ_FTR.indd 29 2/18/11 9:53:59 AM

miningfeature
Island of Diamonds
Baffin Island is an area of great hope for BHP and its
junior partner, Peregrine Diamonds
B y Martin Irving
C
anada’s North has been a focus of frenzied diamond exploration exploration arm at the time) had discovered non-economic kimberlites in
ever since the announcement of the discovery of diamonds in the the 1970s. In general, diamond exploration programs slowly moved north
Lac de Gras area in 1991. In the early years, exploration centered and east from the mainland. In 2005 and 2006, it reached Baffin Island.
around the initial discovery and over time has moved outward and spread
across the North. Much of the focus was on the mainland in the Slave Baffin Island is a large island on the eastern edge of the Canadian Arctic,
Geological Province (around the Ekati and Diavik mines) and in Churchill and the fifth largest island in the world at over 500,000 sq.kms. Iqaluit is
Geological Province in the Eastern Arctic around Rankin Inlet. the capital of Nunavut, and its largest city, with a population of over 6,000
and is located in the southern part of the Island, on Frobisher Bay.
During the late 1990s and early 2000s, a number of companies explored
for diamonds on the Arctic Islands, with limited success. One area of Between 2005 and 2007, a number of anomalous kimberlite indicator
interest was Somerset Island, where Monopros (De Beers’ Canadian minerals were discovered on the Hall Peninsula, northeast of Iqaluit along
030-032.CJ_MiningFeature.indd 30 2/18/11 11:09:03 AM

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CJ_P&H Design.indd 1 2/15/11 2:03:00 PM

miningfeature
“100%
Initially the Chidliak property was owned
by Peregrine. However, under the
2005 agreement, BHP-Billiton has earned
certain back-in rights.
”
the south coast of the Cumberland Sound. As part of a 2005

agreement between diamond giant BHP-Billiton and the
junior diamond exploration company Peregrine Diamonds,
Peregrine obtained prospecting permits in the area and
continued the grassroots exploration program, now called
the Chidliak project. BHP-Billiton provided some funding
and technical data and support. Further samples were
taken and analyzed, and the results were excellent. In the
summer of 2008 three kimberlites (CH-1, Ch-2 and Ch-3)
were discovered. The initial results from small samples of
the CH-1 kimberlite were so promising that a 2.28-tonne
mini-bulk sample was collected late in 2008. The mini-bulk
sample was collected by hand from the surface of CH-1. A
total of 168 diamonds greater than the 0.425 mm sieve size
were recovered, including 34 commercial-sized diamonds
larger than the 0.85 mm sieve size as well as a 2.01 carat,
gem quality, clear colourless octahedron.
Initially the Chidliak property was owned 100% by Peregrine. However, from the 14.1-tonne mini-bulk sample of CH-6 indicated a diamond
under the 2005 agreement, BHP-Billiton has earned certain back-in grade of between 2 and 6.8 carats per tonne. The largest diamonds were
rights. The initial step was taken in November 2008 when BHP-Billiton 1.29, 1.02, 0.99 and 0.99 carats.
elected to acquire a 51% interest in the property by sole-funding
approximately $22-million in the exploration expenditures. This vote of BHP-Billiton continues to maintain its 51% ownership in the project,
confidence in the property was a shot in the arm for Peregrine and also while Peregrine holds the remainder and manages the exploration
for the entire junior diamond exploration sector, which was suffering program. Each party has maintained its right to market its share of any
through the global financial crisis and the crash in the diamond and diamond production from the property. As the Ekati Diamond mine
equity markets. The funding from BHP-Billiton allowed Peregrine to (BHP-Billiton’s sole diamond producing mine) gets closer to the end of
continue working in the property without having to try to raise money its mine life, BHP-Billiton will either have to find diamond production to
during the financial crisis. replace it, or move out of the diamond sector, one that has proved very
profitable for the company over the past 10 plus years. This project is
By the end of 2010, Peregrine had discovered over 50 kimberlites on the obviously one that they hope will maintain their position in the global
Chidliak property. Testing and sampling results have been released on diamond industry.
27 kimberlites, with 26 of them containing diamonds. Based on these
preliminary results, Peregrine considers seven of these kimberlites to hold The results to date from Chidliak are excellent and while still early and
economic potential in Arctic settings (CH-1, 6, 7, 28, 31, 44 and 45). preliminary, they confirm the potential of the project. The results have
sparked interest by other companies in the area and most of Baffin Island
Some results from mini-bulk samples of various pipes include a 47-tonne has now seen grassroots exploration for diamonds. The North is an area
mini bulk sample from CH-7 that yielded 49.07 carats of commercial- of the country that badly needs significant economic development and
sized diamonds, for a diamond grade of 1.04 carats per tonne. The mini- likely to receive it only though the mineral sector. The potential impact
bulk sample yielded 502 commercial-sized diamonds, 15 of which weigh of a diamond mine on Baffin Island would be huge for the region, and
0.5 carat or more, including 6.53, 2.18, 1.24 and 0.98-carat stones. Results significant for the entire diamond sector. [CJ]
030-032.CJ_MiningFeature.indd 32 2/18/11 9:51:00 AM

Finished Jewellery & Loose Diamonds

Nova Diamonds Inc.
221 Victoria St. Lower Level
Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M5B 1V4
Phone: 416-868-6682 Fax: 416-868-0666
CJ.Mar11_Nova.indd 1 2/15/11 2:04:44 PM

034-036.CJ_Bench.indd 34 2/18/11 4:09:02 PM

benchfeature
Investing with
precious metals
By Charles Lewton-Brian
O
ne of the goldsmith’s jobs is to solder complicated multiple part Kate Wolf of Portland, Maine, likes to use a pre-mixed clay-like heat
pieces together. If you don’t have a laser or a fusion welder to tack shield material to hold parts together while soldering, especially with
all the parts together before soldering, this can be a difficult job. complex model-making assemblies. (This replaces the now banned
Some jewellers will use superglue to tack individual parts together for asbestos putty mixture that goldsmiths used to use up until the early
soldering, as the flux takes over in stickiness about the time the superglue ’80s). The name of the substitute she likes is SOFH12 Heat Shield. It
disappears when heated. looks and works very much like plasticine. To use it, position the parts
to be joined, apply blobs of the material to hold parts together (no
A great system for holding parts together for soldering is to use refractive drying time), solder away and then the dried material falls off (more
plaster investments. Ordinary casting investment can serve reasonably or less) when the object is quenched in water. Kate, a model maker, will
well for this. It may be made into a clay-like blob to hold parts, or poured sometimes assemble parts using super glue, and then use this clay to
around parts to position them. Casting investment, however, takes some hold everything together to allow assembly in a single soldering job.
time to set, and can be tricky to work The heat shield can be ordered from
with. Small Parts Inc., P.O. Box 381736,
Miami, Fla., 33138 (the part number
“
There is, however, a magic instant is 3055578222). Riogrande.com sells
setting investment which Doug Zaruba A wonderfuly important something similar. There are other
of Frederick, Maryland, introduced me like products available.
to years ago, called Quickset #2, a Kerr method of using investments
product. A wonderfully important method of
is to set up multiple using investments is to set up multiple
”
The company does not list it with its solderings at once. I have seen several
investments in the catalogue, so look solderings at once. hundred joins done in a single heating
in the back, under specialty products, and soldering operation using this
to find it. Remember that dentists and approach. The idea is that you take
their suppliers do not call plasters clay (I prefer real clay, not plasticine –
“investment” but rather “stone,” so you would be looking for Quickset #2 there is less oil and grease present to impede soldering and real clay is
Investment Stone. Doug uses a squash ball cut in half as a little mixing water based and easier to wash off), and make a bed of it, a slab about
bowl for small amounts, just squeezing it in his hand like an exercise ball one cm thick or so. Some people like to use wax instead of clay, but I
to mix the investment. It can be mixed fairly dry so it works like clay and find the clay easier to use and less work. Then you take your jewellery
quickly pressed in place around the parts to solder. Then go rinse your components, pre-sanded and clean, and press them carefully into
hands (it dries completely in 30 seconds or so) and solder right away. It the clay exactly as you want them to appear when soldered together.
can also be mixed wetter and poured. When you have finished soldering, That is, tightly next to one another and pressed to the half-way depth
quench the jewellery construction in water and the investment falls off into the clay. Everything is touching well where the joins should be.
the piece - very nice stuff. There are many similar quick-setting soldering Then walls of some kind are built around the entire clay slab. Usually
investments: try a google search to get a sense of the range of offerings. these walls are cardboard and duct tape or built using slabs of clay.
034-036.CJ_Bench.indd 35 2/18/11 4:09:17 PM

benchfeature
pre-cleaned components pushed

half way into clay or wax
1 clay or wax 2 clay or wax
top view
cardboard or wax sheet frame to frame and clay or wax

pour the investment into gently pulled off to reveal
backs of components ready
to solder
poured investment
3 clay or wax 4 investment
soldered from the back side
quenched after soldering to

5 investment 6 remove investment from piece
Dentists would use boxing wax for the same kind of job; this is the standard making large, complex neckpieces and used an iron bust to set up the clay
pink sheet wax that jewellers use to make jewellery models with, never and investment soldering jig, so the soldering jig was huge.
suspecting its main purpose is to build boxes for pouring investment into.
Casting investment is then poured into the frame and allowed to set. When I worked in a German factory in Pforzheim, we used the same
idea to make reusable soldering jigs with casting investment. Our jigs
When the investment is dry, the frame and clay are carefully peeled off, consisted of one-third casting investment, one-third Portland Cement
revealing the back halves of the metal components sticking out of the solid and one-third fibrous refractive material (we used asbestos back then;
investment. When the investment has been allowed to dry out (which is these days you would use Fiberfax or a similar ceramic fibre). These jigs
very fast if using Quickset #2 investment) the protruding components are were for a repeatable production soldering set up. We would make the
well fluxed and soldered in one heating operation. It does not matter how clay slab, set the components in, build the walls and pour the jig mixture
many parts are being soldered, as you are flooding what will be the back in. An interesting addition was to use broken sawblades as “rebar” in the
of the piece with solder. jig. When the jig mixture was halfway poured in, broken sawblade pieces
were sprinkled into it, and then they were buried as the mold frame was
Finally everything is quenched in water to remove the investment, filled up with the investment mixture. They acted like the knobby iron
shocking it off. Any remnants are brushed away under running water. rods used in concrete to increase strength: Rebar. This meant that even if
the soldering jig cracked in use, the webwork of broken sawblades within
Malika Hemachandra, a Sri Lankan I met in Colombo, did this with kept it from falling apart. Generally we could get about 50 solderings from
hundreds of components at one time, one giant soldering job for such a jig before it broke down too much to use. So, at last, an excuse to
innumerable stamped and cast parts and settings in one go. She was keep your broken sawblades. [CJ]
034-036.CJ_Bench.indd 36 2/18/11 4:09:33 PM

Bijouterie / Je wellery
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CJ.Jan11_Lega.indd 1 2/15/11 2:06:24 PM

Faceted amethyst from
Madagascar on a cluster of
Canadian quartz crystals. Changing
COLORS
The beauty of colored
gemstones can sometimes
be confusing
BY DUNCAN P ARKER
I
t is common understanding that certain
gems have particular colors. Prior to the
invention of the science of gemology, we
were pretty easygoing about gem names and
identification. For example, a blue gem was a
sapphire, green was emerald, red gems were
ruby, yellow was topaz, and so on.
You’ll notice that the names of the gems

mentioned above don’t end in “ite” like fibrolite
and sillimanite (which, by the way, are the
same thing). These gems were named before
mineralogy eased up on romance and honed in
on science.
There’s nothing wrong with science, but the

naming of gems is somewhat romantic and the
science, while not infrequently accurate, can
diminish the fantasy and fun in gems. While
we know that gems have a mineral species and
variety, a chemical composition and most even
have a crystalline structure, this doesn’t lessen
the importance of the stories and folklore
around gems.
Amethyst is a gem that someone in ancient

Rome may have placed in a drink to keep
intoxication at bay and emerald is a soothing
gem that Nero is said to have looked through
while Rome burned. Jadeite jade is protective
of the wearer and if it breaks, it is said that it
protected the wearer from injury. These stories
and beliefs are important to gems. They give
character to them.
038-40.CJ_Gem Feature.indd 38 2/18/11 11:07:00 AM

gemologycolumn
I don’t want to diminish the importance of terminology, but now that

we have the knowledge to differentiate gems, we should use their correct
names. The romance and curiosity in the traditional names must be
carefully retained, but we have the knowledge to properly identify gems
to avoid confusion
Tanzanite is a blue/violet gem variety of the mineral zoisite, it is exclusively

mined in (as you might guess) Tanzania, so it has a name that gives credit
to its source. Being a relatively recently introduced gem (by Tiffany in
1967), Tanzanite does not have much history and folklore. (I have noticed
that lots of tourists to the Caribbean return with a Tanzanite purchase,
and so I invented a piece of folklore: Tanzanite is a gem of travellers.)
A green variety of zoisite is also mined. There has been discussion of the
naming of this green variety of the gem, so, boringly, we name it after its
color and species: Hence: green zoisite.
The gem world has expressed some dismay at using the name because
it was deemed a bit boring, but also because the word “zoisite” was seen
as being a little too close in sound to “suicide.” Can you picture the sales
pitch in a store: “So you’re looking for something for your wife? Well,
I really think the best thing for her would be zoisite.” The gem world
suggested honouring an important member of our industry by naming
the green zoisite after him, but on hearing the name “Gübelinite,” Edward
Gübelin, the famous gemologist and gem inclusion specialist, who has
since passed away, announced that he thought it was the ugliest name he’d
ever heard for a gem. The suppliers of green zoisite have most recently
moved to sell green zoisite as “green tanzanite.”
Several gems these days are being promoted under names that belong
to other varieties. “Green amethyst”,“yellow emerald” and “red emerald”
are examples. These names are chosen to utilize the familiar names of
amethyst (purple quartz), and emerald (rich green color beryl) and to
create more saleable names than the rather prosaic and less familiar
“prasiolite,” “heliodor” (or “golden beryl”) and “red beryl.”
Alexandrite is a color-change gem that shows red in incandescent
light and green or blue in daylight.
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gemologycolumn
Zultanite is a color-change
gem, which has pink to
purple to brown colors in
incandescent light, and green
to blue colors in daylight.
If it is familiar, it will be perceived to be more valuable. Appraisers and is alexandrite. If there is no color-change, it isn’t alexandrite. We often see
gemologists face this conundrum daily. At a workshop I was recently gems sold as alexandrite that show absolutely no color change, not even if
giving, students asked about a pinkish red (or reddish pink) gem I was you squint and really use your imagination. The seller of these gems likes
showing, asking “is that a ruby or a sapphire?” It’s a reasonable question. to sell them as alexandrite because there is a romance to the name and it
Sapphire and ruby are varieties of the same species: corundum (now, will sell better than “yellow chrysoberyl” or “green chrysoberyl” (who’s
isn’t corundum a name that could sell a thousand rings?) I answered: “ heard of that?).
It depends whether you’re buying or selling.” Ruby is traditionally a more
valuable gem, all other things being equal, so selling a gem as a ruby There’s a beauty to a really fine alexandrite. I had one in the lab the
is thought to be more likely to generate a better return than selling an other day, and it had a 100% color change, with both colors being really
equivalent gem as a sapphire. attractive. As the colors become muddy or brown or grayish, the demand
and the value decrease. Dealers may call it alexandrite, but the beauty will
Experience tells us that a gem will be sold for what its price is. If there is still determine the price.
a debate as to whether a gem is a ruby or a sapphire, it must either be a
very pinkish or purplish ruby or a very reddish pink or purplish sapphire. There are only a few color-change gems. Alexandrite is the most precious,
Either way, to truly be on the edge between the ruby and sapphire, it all other things being equal, but others are color-change sapphire, color-
really could be a poor ruby or a really nice sapphire, based on the color change garnet (spessartine/pyrope), color-change spinel, and the new
possibilities, the price will likely be the same, whatever you call it. kids on the block, “color shift” andesine feldspar, and “zultanite” (color-
change diaspore). These gems have pink to purple to brown colors in
On the other hand, a “green amethyst,” which is heat-treated quartz, is incandescent light, and green to blue colors in daylight.
plentifully available and very inexpensive. Is it an amethyst? No, it never
has been and never will be. The values of these particular gems are relative to their beauty and rarity.
Color change gems have the novelty of the color change phenomenon. They
Another gem that is sometimes misnamed because of the perception of its are not all the same in rarity or beauty, but they all have the same novelty.
value is alexandrite. Alexandrite is a variety of the mineral chrysoberyl.
The gem is named after the Czar apparent, the crown prince in Russia, Once upon a time, all color change gems would have been called
who had his naming day on the same day that the gem was first found in “alexandrite,” but now gemologists know the difference. Up until the 1960s,
Russia, in the late nineteenth century. people were selling synthetic color-change sapphire as “alexandrite,” and
we still see it as alexandrite in family rings.
Alexandrite is a genuinely rare and precious gem: It changes color. The
finest Russian alexandrite has a color change that is red in incandescent There may be marketers trying to work out how to sell other color-change
light and candlelight and green in daylight. Sadly, this material is frightfully gems under the umbrella name “alexandrite” to boost sales, but it might
rare, and is infrequently seen. These days, most alexandrite comes from not take as easily as it did back when we didn’t know the difference and
Brazil, and it has a color change that is usually purple in incandescent every red gem was ruby and every green one was emerald.
light and candlelight, and blue in daylight. The finest material appears as
two entirely different colors in the two different types of light. Names are important to ensure that we get what we think we’re getting.
We need to understand the terms we use to describe gems. We see “green
Marketers create confusion about the name of the material by using amethyst” all over the place, but the consumer is cleverer than all of us. I
the name “alexandrite” for chrysoberyl that has no color change. All constantly hear the question from consumers and students; “they said this
alexandrite is a color-change variety of chrysoberyl, but not all chrysoberyl was green amethyst, but isn’t amethyst purple?” Quite right. [CJ]

Tools Ad 02-2011_Layout 1 11-02-03 12:04 PM Page 1
CJ.Mar11_Noble.indd 1 2/15/11 2:09:37 PM

Peter Norton of Nortons
Jewellers, Charlottetown, PEI.
038-043.CJ_CoverStory.indd 42 2/18/11 2:06:16 PM

coverstory
Peter Norton believes quality merchandise and

social responsibility are the key elements of
success in jewellery retailing
Family
values By Carol Besler
P hotography by A lanna Jankov

B
eing born into a family jewellery retail business does not Not all the knocks were hard. Norton’s business grew steadily, and he
necessarily lead to a career in that profession. University beckons, never looked back. “I love this business,” he says. “In what other industry
as do other, sometimes more lucrative professions, and it can take do you deal with people for all their best events, all their special moments,
years to make a commitment to the family business. Peter Norton, at even if it’s a guy coming in on a Friday night to get something just to
the age of 20, took a year off after two years at business school to work show his wife he loves her?” A few years into it, Norton was hooked. “I
in his parents’ jewellery store, and all of a sudden, it was decision time. remember pausing one day and thinking to myself, ‘Holy cow, am I ever
His father, Fred Norton, passed away suddenly, five years after starting lucky;’ this is a great business,” he says. His two brothers and a younger
Norton’s Jewellers in Charlottetown, PEI. Peter immediately did what sister did not take a permanent interest in the store, which his parents
came naturally to him: he assumed responsibility for the business, opened after Fred had worked as a watchmaker for others. “I was always
alongside his mother, Lois. There was no looking back. more interested in the business,” says Norton. “It suited me.”
“I guess you could say I was thrown into it,” says Norton, looking back Norton’s employees, some of whom have been with the store for three
on the day in 1979 when his fate changed forever. The first thing he did decades, obviously feel the same way, something that speaks volumes
was change the direction of his education, enrolling in the Jewellery about his inclusive management style. “I hate to use the words ‘staff’ or
Arts program at George Brown College in Toronto. “I studied under ‘employee’ because I think of us as a team. They are very important; they
Kristel Klock,” he says proudly, referring to the longtime, much-lauded make the store what it is,” he says. “They are involved with customers
program director, now retired. “She was great, and that program has and they take responsibility. I have been very lucky.” Norton’s team of
served me well,” he says. “It helped in advancing my career because it nine staff members, include trusted store manager, Laura-Lee Lewis, and
made me understand how the product is made and what it takes to make general manager Tracy Gormley, both of whom have been with him for
it.” And his business studies? “I learned the rest of what I needed to know a long time, and his mother, Lois, still comes in most days. “She would
about business by being in business,” he says simply. “It was the school of deny that she is retired,” laughs Peter. The team doesn’t change very often,
hard knocks.” He is quick to add: “I have had a lot of help from people in but when Norton hires someone, he looks for someone who is “smart,
the industry, right from the beginning.” service-oriented, experienced in life, even if perhaps not in jewellery.”

coverstory
Norton’s Jewellers is one of four jewellery retailers in the Charlottetown

area, but, as Norton says, his store competes with all nine jewellery
stores on Prince Edward Island. “With PEI so small, if you have a store
in the province, you’re in our market. The major centres are all within
a 30-45 minute drive from each other.” Still, he adds, “I like to think we
are the top store in our market.”
Norton’s is a mid- to high-range store, with merchandise priced from

$100 to $10,000. One of its top lines is Pandora, which technically starts
at $35 if you count just one charm, but customers usually buy a bracelet
and several charms at once (“Beaded charms are hot right now!” says
Pearl and diamond jewellery by Breuning, Norton). Other brands carried by the store include Thomas Sabo, Simon
one of the brands Nortons carries. G, Breuning, Elle, Bellarri, Movado, Bulova and Victorinox Swiss Army.
But the way Norton sees it, the store is the real brand, and what that brand
represents is quality. “We did branding before everyone was talking
about it,” says Norton, “and we have always believed in advertising. We
see it as an investment rather than an expense. The key to it is to have
a consistent message. Who we are, what we are ... it all comes down to
quality, and the most important aspect of that message is that we deliver
that promise to the customers every time they come through our door.
The message is, ‘if you want beautiful, quality jewellery to celebrate an
important moment in your life, we want you to think of our store.’ It
doesn’t matter if they spend $100 or $1,000; we treat them all the same,
and we offer only quality items.”

“strong
Let’s deal with what we think is
from our end and we’ll work
with that, and we may be surprised
by how much business we can do.
”
The store’s marketing strategy involves a combination of public relations Norton’s primary merchandising strategy is to involve all staff members,
and advertising. The advertising is mainly radio, with some print and especially the sales staff, in the buying process. “This is critical, because
direct mail. The public relations strategy involves mainly store events they deal with the customers every day,” says Norton. “They know what
and fundraising. Nortons is involved in the community, raising funds people are looking for.” Secondly, Norton says the team tries to focus on
for the local hospital and the Heart & Stroke Foundation. The store is the strength of pieces and less on programs. “We were on a few programs,
the sponsor of the Razzle Dazzle Red event, a Valentine’s Day black-tie but we do very few now. We don’t want to just become somebody’s store;
dinner for the Heart & Stroke Foundation, for which Norton has raised we don’t want to buy just from one manufacturer,” he explains. “We
over $250,000 over the past five years. The store also sells the Christmas cherry pick, choosing things we really like and are properly priced and
Angel, an ornament available to Canadian Jewellery Group members, the have a wow factor. If you go into programs only, you have to consider how
proceeds of which are donated to the store’s charity of choice. Nortons that is going to affect the rest of your buying. Certain companies have
donated proceeds to the local hospital. their policies [i.e., minimum buy-in] and if we think it’s important to deal
with them, we are going to work with them, but it’s not necessarily the
“Our merchandising strategy has changed over the years,” says Norton. game we play.” Norton’s ultimate message to suppliers is, “let’s deal with
“When we opened, we were a classic, small-town jewellery store, with what we think is strong from our end and we’ll work with that, and we
a large selection of dinnerware and giftware, which comprised at least may be surprised by how much business we can do.”
50% of the merchandise. Today, we still have a few giftware items, but we
have evolved to become primarily a jewellery store; giftware is now only Custom work is also important at Norton’s, and represents about 20% of
about 5%, but it still generates traffic.” business. “One of the things that differentiates us from other jewellers

coverstory
is that we have two in-store jewellers,” he says. The 2008 recession had
a surprising impact on the business. In Norton’s case, he turned lemons
into lemonade, so to speak. “What the recession did was smarten me
up,” he says. “It was a wake-up call that made me pay more attention
to the business. I said, ‘Okay, how much inventory do we have at this
level, what’s holding us back, how is our cash flow, where could we
be stronger?’ I was invigorated by the process; I had not done this in
some time. I tweaked some things that really made a difference and it
confirmed to me that I need to do this sort of analysis more often,” he
says. “We tend to become complacent.”
When asked what is the most important issue facing the jewellery
industry today, Norton talks about social and environmental
responsibility. “Retailers and manufacturers have to be more aware of
where their products are coming from,” he believes. “One of the things
that makes Canadian diamonds popular is that customers know they
are mined environmentally and socially responsibly. Everyone gets a
good wage, the mines themselves meet high environmental standards –
that gives everyone a good feeling.”
As chairman of the Canadian Jewellers Association, Norton also cannot

fail to mention apathy toward the industry’s organizations as another
major issue. “It frustrates me to see how many jewellers don’t see the
relevance of the CJA and don’t support it,” says Norton. “The CJA is
made up of everyone’s peers working for the betterment of our industry.
How can people not believe that there is a need for a voice? It would
amaze a lot of jewellers, I think, to see how many things CJA deals with
behind the scenes.”
When asked what advice Norton would give to someone just entering
the jewellery business – aside from joining the Canadian Jewellers
Victorinox Swiss Army is one of Nortons strongest watch brands.
Association – he replies, “learn as much as you can, educate yourself, Others include Bulova and Movado.
and work hard; with hard work you’d be surprised at what great luck
you’ll have. Overnight success sometimes takes 20 years.” [CJ]

shine
Platinum’s
time to
From trend alerts to

the price of gold, all
indications point to a
resurgence in the great
white metal
BY CAROL BESLER
W
ith the soaring price of gold
closing the price gap between
18k and platinum, retailers are
refreshing their inventories with platinum
designs and renewing their platinum selling
skills. Platinum is increasingly seen by
consumers as a great investment as well as a
great jewellery choice.
Since the recession, jewellery design

trends have been steadily returning to the
minimalist styles prominent in the mid-’90s,
including small pendants on fine platinum
chain and rings with narrower shanks and
single, often semi-precious gems rather then
multiple gems and diamonds – all styles that
favour platinum because they are lightweight.
A trend toward setting affordable, semi-
Platinum chain with navette
cut emerald and diamonds, by precious stones in white metals is also giving
Hans Schindler. Courtesy of platinum a boost.
PGI Germany.
044-046.CJ_Platinum.indd 48 2/18/11 1:50:28 PM

productfocus
Platinum ring with

2.22ct. centre stone
set in an inner
black rhodium-
plated section,
by Schlappner
Jewellery. Courtesy
of PGI Germany.
Fiori platinum
chain with platinum “Platinum jewellery demand was significantly up in 2010, forecast to
and diamond grow 33%, according to Johnson Matthey,” says Huw Daniel, president
pendant, by Henrich
of Platinum Guild International USA. “We hear from our partners
& Denzel. Courtesy
of PGI Germany. that the narrowing price differential between platinum and gold has
been a key driver, especially in the bridal market, where a customer
who desires platinum finds it less of a leap from 18k white gold than in
previous years.” Daniel believes the shift has been a long time coming, as
platinum, a long-time aspirational metal, suddenly becomes accessible
to more consumers. “This is a classic case of release of pent-up demand,”
he says, “a legacy hang from historically higher platinum prices, and the
recent recession.”
PGI is doing everything it can to facilitate the shift to platinum, pushing

what it is calling “entry-level platinum” in a new marketing effort
that focuses on bridal and fashion product that starts at $1,000 retail.
The national campaign is reminiscent of the way De Beers previously
marketed product segments such as the diamond solitaire necklace and
the diamond tennis bracelet, and is being well received in the industry.
It includes marketing programs, in-store signage, design ideas, trend-
identification and retail sales training support. As part of the effort,
PGI has assembled an entry-level product collection to help market the
concept, much the way the World Gold Council assembles its annual
Gold Expressions campaign of affordable gold designs geared to the
North American market. The idea is to increase platinum sales and
stimulate incremental platinum business. PGI has created counter signs,
light pads, duratrans and in-store signage to help retailers sell entry-
Platinum and
diamond wedding level platinum pieces. (Retailers can visit www.PlatinumSignage.com to
bands, by Mercury, order platinum posters and duratrans, customized with the platinum
from the Entry Level merchandise they sell.)
Platinum Collection
by PGI.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m MARCH 2011 CJ 49

Platinum bow
pendant by
Stuller, part of the
PGI Entry Level
Platinum Collection
and the Editor Picks
Platinum earrings collection assembled
with tourmaline, by PGI USA.
amethyst, rubellite
and fire opals,
by Georg Spreng.
Courtesy of PGI
Germany.
Platinum has long been marketed as the indestructible metal that holds
diamonds more securely than any other metal and is preferred in high-
end, limited-edition watches that are destined to become collector’s items.
It has therefore gained a cachet that categorizes it as a strictly high-end
metal. The new entry-level campaign seeks to change that perception.
“PGI’s entry platinum initiative is perfectly timed to provide retailers
who are restocking after the recession with a new category for their bridal
merchanidise and fashion assortment,” says Daniel. “It is opening a lot of
people’s minds to the idea that platinum does not have to be restricted
to bigger diamonds, and that platinum can play an important part in
the value equation, whatever the price point. Our research showed too
many consumers walking into stores looking for platinum and walking
out dissatisfied because the merchandise assortment was too narrow.
Entry platinum has opened up a whole new category, delighting the end
customer, while driving profits for the industry.”
Platinum’s features require some explanation – for example, it is 90%-95%

pure, which means you get more of it than the gold you would get in 18k
gold (75% pure), it never loses its color, and it is many times rarer than Platinum and amethyst
gold, etc. Therefore, PGI has created an updated online training session ring with diamonds,
for sales associates that which demonstrates the benefits of platinum and by Sturany Schmuck
how to use the information to close the platinum sale. Bench jewellers can Design. Courtesy of PGI
also tap the PGI for support, including information about the latest bench Germany.
techniques and time-saving applications. (For educational, promotional
and merchandising support, visit www.platinumguild.com)

productfocus
Is it platinum?
PGI welcomes FTC platinum amendment
The U.S. Federal Trade Commission recently published amendments Platinum earrings
to the Commission’s Guide for the marketing of platinum jewellery to with Burmese
require marketers of platinum/base metal alloys to clearly disclose morganite drops,
the content of these products. The amendment also explicitly by Ashok Sancheti,
a favorite piece in
prohibits the use of abbreviations in such disclosures. The rule refers
the Editor Picks
to products consisting of 50%-85% platinum, along with other non- collection assembled
precious base metals. The FTC also recognizes that platinum/base by PGI USA.
metal alloys may not contain the same characteristics as traditional
platinum products with respect to their durability, lustre, density,
scratch resistance, tarnish resistance, hypoallergenicity, ability to be
resized or repaired, retention of precious metal over time, and other
material attributes and properties.
“The FTC’s revisions to the jewellery guidelines regarding platinum is

of significant benefit to consumers,” says Huw Daniel, president of
PGI USA. “We have worked with the FTC for the past five years to
ensure that consumers get the best information possible about what
Vintage platinum
they are buying; the FTC’s decision will go a long way to ensuring flower and vine
that consumers can make confident choices when purchasing wedding band, bezel
platinum jewellery, while also benefiting members of the industry on set with ten small
the manufacturing and retail sides.” PGI commended the FTC for diamonds of 0.20tcw.
The platinum band is
requiring additional consumer disclosures and competent and reliable
entirely hand carved, by
testing of alloys that may differ from traditional platinum products. Myerson’s Limited.
FTC guidelines are considered an industry standard that affects the

way products are manufactured, sold and marketed in other countries,
including Canada. Under the new guideline, the word “platinum,” or
any abbreviation accompanied by a number or percentage indicating
the parts per thousand of pure platinum contained in the product,
may not be used to describe a platinum/base metal alloy unless the
product contains a clear and conspicuous disclosure, immediately
following the name or description of such product of: (i) the full
composition of the product (by name and not abbreviation) and Platinum Advertisers in this issue
percentage of each metal; and (ii) that the product may not have the
same attributes or properties as traditional platinum products (unless Crown Ring Mirage
the marketer has competent and reliable scientific evidence that t: 519.381.1589 t: 877.BY MIRAGE
w: www.crownring.com w: www.miragecreations.com
there is no material difference in each of the platinum characteristics
material to consumers). Image Fifth Ave PH Design
t: 514.875.6182 t: 416.367.2870
Lega Jewellery w: www.phdesign.ca
PGI USA also welcomes the FTC’s publication of a consumer alert t: 514.845.0066 Stuller
regarding platinum purchases, What to Look for When Buying w: www.legajeweller.com t: 337.262.7700
Platinum Jewelry, and of a companion Industry Guide for the trade. Malo Creations w: www.stuller.com
The consumer alert can be found at: t: 450.682.6561
http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/edu/pubs/consumer/alerts/alt180.shtm. w: www.maloinc.ca
The industry alert can be found at: Midas Jewelry
http://business.ftc.gov/documents/bus74-advertising-platinum-jewelry. t: 800.216.0899

052-054.CJ_CompanyProfile.indd 52 2/18/11 1:57:28 PM

companyprofile
Go for the gold With an emphasis on top-notch customer service and

real-time pricing, gold dealer 24 Gold Group Ltd. is golden.
By Briony Smith
G
old is in Kamel Hanna’s blood. The president of Toronto- real-time pricing or change the scrap gold into fine gold for the
based 24 Gold Group Ltd. got his start in Cairo in the family manufacturer and wholesaler to make into new jewellery. Hanna also
jewellery business. His uncles had long been in the gold trade sells bullion, gold, silver and platinum.
and Hanna joined the family business after he completed his electrical
engineering studies. Jeweller clients come to Hanna from all over Ontario and other parts
of Canada. Clients can ship to 24 Gold Group Ltd. as well as make
“I’d seen my uncle working in the jewellery business since I was a kid appointments in person. A website helps to publicize the business and
— I’d always liked design,” Hanna says. “My electrical engineering includes live metal prices (24gold.ca).
background made designing easier, and I liked working with the idea
of making something new.” Now, says Hanna, 24 Gold Group Ltd. has set itself apart from
competitors because of its expert, honest, speed and good word-of-
While working with his uncle, Hanna tried new designs, including mouth. “We’re one of the largest companies. We can melt down and
different finishings and colors. Before long, he was helping to run the test the gold in 5-10 minutes,” Hanna says. He also prides himself on
company. Eventually, Hanna wanted to go into business for himself, the fact that discerning clients often shop around first, but come back to
and opened up manufacturing and wholesale in Cairo in 1986 (which use his services in the end. “I started without advertising,” he says, “and
now include more than 30 staff). just showed how I work. I pay more, and am more accurate. When they
see I am more honest, they come back.” He also has the latest assaying
But Hanna had bigger plans. “There are usually many troubles in this and X-ray technology to get the most accurate analysis in one minute.
country,” he says, referring to the ongoing issues in the Middle East. So
he struck out for a new country — and a new business. Another 24 Gold Group Ltd. specialty is real-time gold pricing;
Hanna offers his clients the most accurate pricing possible, right up to
Hanna moved to Toronto in 2003, where he saw the opportunity for a the second.
new market — gold. He wanted to turn from the retail side to become
a gold dealer and gold refiner in the booming metals market and Hanna continues to thrive, even in such a challenging market. “Gold
the privately owned 24 Gold Group Ltd. was born. “When I came to prices are high,” according to Hanna. “If the market is up, we’re buying
Canada, they weren’t manufacturing too much,” he says, pointing out more. If the market is down, we sell more.” This means that, no matter
that Canada does around 5% of the volume that his native Cairo does. how the market is doing, Hanna is always busy.
Now, the business revolves around jewellery dealers bringing their But he doesn’t mind. Hanna loves working in the gold industry, for one
public-bought gold to 24 Gold Group Ltd. and melting it down and simple reason—helping his clients. “When you help someone, you feel
analysis, for purity. The Group will then buy the gold for resale in nice,” he laughs. [CJ]

Arun Bohra fuses
old-world with new
The LA designer muses about the ‘OMG’ factor
By Bonnie Siegler
Floral cuff set with

diamonds, spinels and
Paraiba tourmalines
056-058.CJ_Designer2.indd 54 2/18/11 11:05:04 AM

designerprofile
Diamond Spider necklace,

with rose cut diamonds and
full cut diamonds.
A
run Bohra was born to design innovative and sophisticated
jewellery pieces. After all, his family has been creating jewellery
since 1841, making Bohra an eighth generation jeweller. In fact,
his heritage in this business dates back to making pieces for the Royal
families of the various states and kingdoms in India. Born in Jaipur,
India, the now 41 year-old graduate of the Gemological Institute of
America, says being born and raised in India definitely has influenced
his designs. “I design a collection that borders on traditional Indian
aesthetics of design so India has influenced me a great deal. However”,
he adds, “I have traveled a great deal and lived in several cultures. I grew
up in India, lived in Japan for almost 10 years, in the United States for
seven years now, and still travel the world. This helped me to develop
my design sensibilities in a more modern way. I also love abstract art,
and collect a great deal myself. That has probably influenced my design
more than anything else and has helped me think outside the box.”
Fusing old-world craftsmanship with a contemporary sense of style, Super Mario bomb
Bohra began his jewellery venture in 2004. “One of my first pieces was earrings, paved with rose
cut cognac diamonds.
one we call Ocean Deep,” he reflects. “I am very fond of the piece for its
attention to details, not just in craftsmanship, but from a design aspect
as well. The backing is an abalone shell, the stringing is in aquamarines
and the piece itself is like a small canvas for a scene in the ocean.
This particular piece gave me a great sense of direction on how my
work started to evolve.” Since that time, Bohra garnered swift media
recognition and awards such as the Town & Country 2008 Couture
Diamond Award, and last year’s Best In Colored Gems at the Couture
Jewellery Design Show. “This award was based on Edward Munch’s
classic painting, “The Scream.” The face of the painting has such depth
and despair, and the challenge was to take that away and create a piece
that would bring joy instead, yet still be a piece of art. I don’t believe in
the word semi-precious” he says referring to what some might call semi-
precious stones. “I believe every stone has its own story to tell. I work a
lot with rare and exotic stones, such as paraiba tourmalines, demantoid
garnets, alexandrites amongst others.”
056-058.CJ_Designer2.indd 55 2/18/11 3:53:38 PM

designerprofile
Wild Orchid earrings set

Arunashi designs are sold at upscale Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth
with fire opal, diamonds and
sapphires. Avenue in the U.S., and the line is looking to expand to Canada in the
coming year. “I think there are a few stores in Canada that have the
ability to sell artistic pieces, and there is a very appreciate audience
there in Canada for it,” he says. “I am researching the Canadian market
more this year.”
In explaining his artistic designs, Bohra says, “Pretty much everything

we do is handmade, and we use minimal modern casting methods. It
is emphasized by what our family believes: that our jewellery is created
with the most advanced thinking tools – the human hands. A lot of the
techniques date back to the mogul era, and we tryto retain that dying
art a great deal.” Not wanting to limit his creations to one specific metal,
Bohra says, “I do not create only in gold. For my one-of-a-kind pieces,
we use whatever is going to compliment the design and the choice of
Pearl earrings set with stones. I love to work in titanium for its versatility, but it is a difficult
Paraiba tourmalines
and diamonds.
metal to work with and can be a pain. Gold is a natural choice because
it connects emotionally with most people as a valuable metal. A big
part of my collection is gold though blackened, because I love the edgy
effect of it.”
Bohra, who now makes his home in Los Angeles with wife, Ashita Shah-
Bohra, is proud that he has been able to create his own niche in the highly
competitive jewellery field. He muses on how far he has come from his
very first jewellery design. “My first significant collection was a series of
bugs I did to commemorate the Y2K bug for the turn of the century. Each
bug had a hidden 2000 in the design and very cool design features. Now
Baroque pearl ring set with I have celebrities like Selena Gomez and Kim Kardashian wearing pieces
emeralds, sapphires and from my collection. Selena wore a stunning ring and Kim wore a pair of
diamonds in titanium.
my earrings – twice in the same week.”
“I like to think that pieces we are creating are timeless, but it sounds
too cliché”, he says on defining his designs in terms of current fashion
trends. “So I would like to think we are creating fabulous pieces, that
when handed down to the next generation, which it should, would evoke
a reaction bordering on ‘OMG’! [CJ]
056-058.CJ_Designer2.indd 56 2/18/11 9:55:19 AM

J E W E L L E R T O D A Y.
SUPERHERO TOMORROW.
PERSONAL JEWELRY INSURANCE

Make your customers aware of Personal Jewelry Insurance from Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company and you just might
save the day! To learn how you can share information about Jewelers Mutual’s Personal Jewelry Insurance program with your customers,
visit JewelersMutual.ca. To order materials, click the “Canadian retailers” link in the lower left corner of the homepage.
*Personal Jewelry Insurance not available in Québec.
800-558-6411 • JewelersMutual.ca
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CJ_JewelersMutual.indd 1 2/15/11 2:10:38 PM

Bridal Boosts Business
BY JEFF PRINE
T
Diamond and 18k white
he customer who has historically rejected platinum either because
gold ring from Midas of the high price or the lack of variety in designs may soon be a
Jewelry. thing of the past. As the price of gold soars to platinum levels,
customers are considering platinum more often, and perhaps even for
the first time, while designers and manufacturers are placing a renewed
emphasis on creativity in both gold and platinum bridal pieces.
“When consumers compare what an 18k white gold setting costs versus
a similar one in platinum, there is now only a few hundred dollars
difference,” says Mark Patterson, a Los Angeles-based designer who
reports that despite the recession, “90% of bridal jewellery sales have been
consistently in platinum.”
Despite platinum weighing in heavier than gold, bridal jewellery

designers and manufacturers report their efforts to create lighter-weight,
opening-price-point platinum collections have paid off. Platinum Guild
Platinum and diamond ring from the International has helped boost the segment by heavily promoting entry-
PGI Entry Level Platinum Collection, level bridal jewellery in a major global campaign designed to help retailers
by Benchmark. gain first-time platinum customers and to stimulate incremental platinum
060-063.CJ_Bridal.indd 58 2/18/11 10:23:09 AM

bridalmarket
From the Sculptures

collection in 18k white and
red gold, by Furer Jacot.
business. The marketing initiatives have kept platinum competitive. PGI is couple might economize by deciding to limit the wedding day guest list, or
also set to help refresh your platinum-selling skills, with the release of its plan a honeymoon closer to home, but an engagement ring isn’t something
Platinum Profits Kit, an information and training package designed for they usually scrimp on.
retailers. It contains information booklets that can be passed on to the
consumer, including a mini-catalogue of entry-level platinum bridal pieces “Despite what is going on with the economy, stock market or politics,
and a how-to manual for picking out the perfect engagement ring, as well the bottom line is that couples are still getting engaged and married,”
as training tools and in-store marketing aids. (For more information, visit says Lauren Chase of the Diamond Information Center. “Even the most
www.platinumguild.com) budget-conscious see their bridal jewellery as an investment. They may
select a smaller diamond centre-stone, but the demand hasn’t subsided.”
This focus on affordable platinum, particularly in the bridal sector, has in
turn generated a renewed effort on the part of the industry to infuse more While trends come and go, even in bridal jewellery, the classic round-
creativity into the bridal segment in general, not just for platinum product brilliant solitaire engagement ring reigns supreme. “The round brilliant
but for gold as well, which lends itself to the richly finished surfaces we diamond is still the number-one choice and the biggest seller,” Chase says.
are now seeing in engagement rings. Whether your customer is a classicist “It’s a classic and continues to be, but the diamond and setting can also be
or a lover of the avant-garde, bridal jewellery is now, more than ever, in a an expression of the bride’s personality and style.” Chase adds. “Ovals, for
position to function as an expression of the wearer’s personality example, are increasingly popular, since they often appear more substantial
in some settings. With the attention some celebrities have recently received
Since bridal jewellery – especially the engagement ring – symbolizes a for their square- and emerald-cut diamond engagement rings, those, along
couple’s love to the world, it takes on paramount significance. An engaged with princess and Ascher cuts, are also seeing an upswing.”
060-063.CJ_Bridal.indd 59 2/18/11 10:23:23 AM

bridalmarket
“ Colored diamonds are another

option – and because they are not as
commoditized as colorless diamonds,
the margin potential is greater.
”
Platinum and diamond engagement rings, one with a fancy

yellow centre stone, from the Boutique Collection by Kwiat.
Indeed, some jewellers have seen a renewed interest in fancy cuts

and even heirloom diamonds that are passed from one generation to
another. “For some, smaller can be better,” says Chase, who notes that
some bridal couples opt for a better cut and better color rather than high
carat weight these days. Even affluent consumers, who can afford any
diamond price point, are selecting smaller diamonds. “The trend has
been toward smaller, but better, higher-quality diamonds” says James
DiGironimo of James Martin Ltd, a New York salon that caters to high-
end clients with platinum, high-quality and fancy colored diamond
jewellery. Mark Patterson concurs, noting that during the height of
the recession, his best-selling semi-mounts dropped from 2-carat sizes
down to 1.5, even 1.0.
New trends and details in settings can also make a diamond appear larger.
Surrounding the centre stone with a diamond pavé setting, for example,
adding diamonds to the tips of prongs or even placing diamonds beneath
the basket can add sparkle.
While Chase reports that many fashion editors have been requesting
traditional, solitaire styles for weddings, some atypical, even quirky rings
have garnered attention in popular culture – including the five-carat
black diamond ring Mr. Big gave to Carrie in “Sex and the City 2,” for
example. A black diamond is less expensive than a white diamond, and
adds a dash of personality. Colored diamonds are another option – and
because they are not as commoditized as colorless diamonds, the margin
potential is greater. Yellow diamonds are more popular today; even pink
and blue diamonds, which are even rarer still, are turning up in custom-
made engagement rings. “We also see more brides favoring champagne
Rings in 19k white gold, with diamonds, all including the Flanders Square Cut Brilliant, diamonds, which have an earthier feel and are more plentiful,” Chase
by Gee N Gee. adds.
060-063.CJ_Bridal.indd 60 2/18/11 10:23:50 AM

Not Just Any Diamond in the Rough
JVC 15th Annual Golf Tournament, Dinner & Silent Auction

Join us and play the north course, which
tested some of the world’s finest golfers
during the 2002 Bell Canadian Open.
Monday, June 20, 2011

at the Angus Glen Golf Club in Markham, Ontario
For more information, contact:

Carla Adams 416-368-4840
or info@jewellersvigilance.ca
Jewellers Vigilance Canada

An independent, non-profit association to advance ethical practices within the Canadian jewellery industry.
CRIME PREVENTION • RESOURCE PROTECTION • SAFETY AWARENESS
CJ.Mar11_JVC.indd 1 2/18/11 3:49:37 PM

bridalmarket
A few facts about bridal:
• Most couples shop one to three months before buying the

engagement ring.
• Most spend a lot more than they plan to.
• Most couples prefer wedding bands that match the metal of the
engagement ring and complement it in both look and fit.
• The engagement ring and wedding bands represent one of the
only wedding-related purchases with long-term investment value,
unlike the cost of flowers or the reception.
• Generally, men spend about two months of their salary on an
engagement ring.
• 60-70% of customers return to the store where they bought their
The wedding of the year – if not the decade – of Prince William to Kate wedding rings for future purchases.
Middleton has also generated more interest in colored centre stones.
Middleton’s blue sapphire engagement ring is creating a worldwide Courtesy of Platinum Guild International
demand for colored gem centre-stone engagement rings much like it did
when William’s father, Prince Charles, gave the same ring to Princess
Diana in 1981.
Diamond and 18k white gold
rings from Midas Jewelry.
One of the most important elements of the bridal buy is the potential
for add-on sales and for gaining new clients for future purchases. While
the engagement ring and wedding bands are the primary purchase of a
couple’s relationship, they are not the only jewellery pieces that can play
a role in a wedding. For example, a pair of diamond studs or a diamond
bracelet are ideal accoutrements for the wedding day. As are gifts for the
bride and groom and bridal party. The bridal jewellery segment, in fact,
has the potential to be a major business-generating aspect of any retail
business, and it all starts with what you choose to stock in your showcase:
a wide variety of styles and price points are therefore essential. [CJ]
060-063.CJ_Bridal.indd 62 2/18/11 10:24:13 AM

000.CJ.Nov.Crown(alloy).indd 1
2/15/11 2:16:05 PM
Jewellery by Pandora
and Classic Creations.
The making of
Ever magazine
Wrapped within an edgy, artistic veneer, inspired by fashion and
style with an education purpose, let your jewellery dictate your look.
Jewellerizing your look has taken the word fashion onto a new meaning.
Values, purposes, brand choices, colours, and styles, Jewellery has
became the experience of personal transformation and identity.
Ever Magazine
Inspired by the fashion of Jewellery
Distributed to 1800 point of sales to strictly geo-targeted exclusive

Jewellery retailers nationwide

photoshoot
Watch by Robert
Cavalli, Embix Watch
Co. All jewelry by
Rebecca Collection,
Diamond II Scalzo
Bros. Inc.
Classic Creations Rings.

068-069.CJ_JVC Feature.indd 66 2/18/11 10:26:40 AM

jvccolumn
What Do Consumers Want?

JVC fields thousands of consumer calls every year. Sometimes callers are seeking advice about how and where to purchase jewellery and watches, but sometimes
they also want to make a complaint against a member of our industry. Can many of these complaints be avoided? How does the way in which consumers
are treated in jewellery retail stores affect sales? What do consumers really want? To help answer these questions, JVC sought the advice of one of Canada’s
leading consumer representatives, Jenny Hillard of Consumer Interest Alliance. Hillard has 28 years of experience, both in Canada and internationally, in the
consumer movement. She is also a valued member of the Canadian Diamond Code of Conduct Committee. Here is part of our discussion.
Phyllis Richard, Executive Director, JVC
PR As you know, bricks-and-mortar jewellery retailers in particular are service and choice in a store that they can get on the Internet. Maybe the
being challenged by the online jewellery industry. How would you see bricks-and-mortar stores that have an electronic presence could develop
these retailers attracting consumers to a bricks-and-mortar location? a system that includes a customer-accessible computer, with trained staff
that would work with consumers to assist them.
JH Most consumers want good customer service. They are going to the
Internet because they can get more information and go back and forth PR What makes a consumer trust one retailer over another?
between sites. It’s user-friendly, and the information is readily available.
JH It’s emotional. It is very hard to gain trust and very easy to lose trust.
The average salesperson in any store, particularly in departments of a big A consumer only needs one bad experience to lose trust in a retailer and
box store, is not well informed and can’t help the consumer. One of the that will spread by word of mouth. If a retailer loses one consumer’s trust
things helping to drive consumers to the Internet is the expectation of a you can be assured that they have really lost a dozen. You can bet your
different level of service (from a specialty retailer) that is above the big- bottom dollar that for every complaint you receive, there are usually 10
box retailers, and they are not getting it. They don’t have the staff available. complaints that consumers have not made the effort to make.
Often, the staff that is available doesn’t have the background knowledge,
so you might as well go to the big-box retailer and get a deal! PR What would be the top four things you would tell a retailer not to do
to a consumer?
Short of training every salesperson in gemology, they (bricks-and-mortar
retailers) need to be innovative. Maybe they need a computer on hand JH 1. Never treat a consumer like an idiot. Most aren’t. When dealing with
where a consumer can do the online research right there while they are diamonds and gold that have carats and karats, you need to get the
looking at something in the store. information across to consumers without making them feel stupid.
2. N
ever exaggerate or lie about your product. Consumers prefer the
The Internet is a general trend in the retail sector. The reason it affects the truth, and respond to the honesty.
jewellery industry probably more is because jewellery is a high-end good 3. N
ever brush off complaints. Although consumers may not always
and people are prepared to spend more time thinking about the purchase be right, retailers need to treat customers like they are always right.
and doing the research. Consumers are prepared to do the work to make Put in place a complaint handling procedure and training for your
a choice. employees.
4. H
ave a return policy that is clear, transparent and meets provincial
PR If retailers invested in better training of salespeople, do you believe regulations. Many stores alter their no-return policy for gifts around
this would attract more customers? Christmas time. Consumers are nervous about buying, particularly
jewellery, if they cannot return it. Perhaps maybe just during the
JH Yes, I think it would. How do you effectively deal with your consumers Christmas gift-giving season a retailer may want to consider offering
from a complaints perspective and handle requests for information? a refund for a short period of time after Christmas.
Retailers need to find ways of delivering something that sets them apart
from their competition. People tend to prefer to deal with people. There are PR Any last words?
advantages to the Internet, but people like seeing people. My inclination
would be to say that most consumers buying jewellery would rather do JH Put customer service ahead of greed. It’s the old story: you catch more
it in person than on the Internet, provided they can get the research, flies with honey than with vinegar. [CJ]
068-069.CJ_JVC Feature.indd 67 2/18/11 10:26:56 AM

Excellence In Design_NEW:Layout 1 11/24/10 4:04 PM Page 1
design
The Annual E XCELLENCE iN
Award Ceremony & Reception
To find out how you can become a sponsor of this prestigious event, please contact
Olivier Felicio at olivier@rivegauchemedia.com or call 416-203-7900 X 6107.
For complete details on how to enter your designs, contact

Melanie Seth at melanie@rivegauchemedia.com or 416-203-7900 X 6114.
Entry
Entry deadline
deadlineisisJune
July 3rd,
8th, 2011,
2011,55p.m.
p.m.
CJ_ad.indd 1 2/18/11 4:23:37 PM

ENTER CANADIAN JEWELLER’S
EXCELLENCE IN DESIGN COMPETITION
DESIGNER ’ S NAME
COMPANY OR STUDENT AFFILIATION
ADDRESS CITY
PROVINCE POSTAL CODE
PHONE FAX
EMAIL ADDRESS
CATEGORY
TYPE OF JEWELLERY VALUE OF DESIGN ( SPECIFY RETAIL OR MATERIALS )
Describe the piece, including metal used and karat value, gemstone types, weights, cuts and colour. (Complex designs should be accompanied
by technical details.)
ENCLOSED IS : MY FINISHED PIECE ( S ) OF JEWELLERY.

$30 ( CHEQUE CAN BE MADE PAYABLE TO RIVE GAUCHE MEDIA .)
AN ENTRY FEE OF $25
I understand the entry rules and regulations and I abide by those terms.
SIGNATURE
SEND ENTRY FORM TO: Excellence in Design, Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON M4W 3B8.
RULES, REGULATIONS AND INFORMATION

• Jewellery must have been designed and made in insuring the jewellery. We suggest you extend your • Winning entries and all information provided about
Canada. own policy to cover your piece or pieces for loss, the entries may be used for promotional purposes.
• Jewellery must incorporate precious metals and must theft or damage for the duration of the competition. Slides, renderings and other reproductions of the de-
adhere to the criteria set out in each category. • In each category, three finalists will be selected. signs, as well as press releases, will also be used for
• All gemstones must be natural. Synthetics are Judges will then choose an overall winner in this purpose.
not permitted. Students may substitute CZ for each category. Entries will be judged on the basis of originality, cre-
diamonds. • To enter, submit finished jewellery, an entry form and ativity, beauty, wearability and quality of workmanship.
• One submission per designer, per category. a $30 fee for each package. Consideration will also be given to marketability.
• Contestant assumes all liability for designs and • Entry deadling is June 3rd,2011,
July 8th, 2011,55p.m.
p.m.
jewellery submitted. Although we will take reasonable • Entries will be returned by a courier at the expense of
precautions while the jewellery is in our possession, the designer. To arrange for the return, please contact
Canadian Jeweller cannot be responsible for a Canadian Jeweller representative at (416) 203-7900.
CJ_ad.indd 2 2/18/11 4:28:59 PM

industrybuzz
Jewellers Vigilance Canada’s

2010 Glitter of Hope Lottery
1.
On November 18, 2010, Jewellers Vigilance Canada and Sunnybrook held
an evening of Glitter and Hope. It took place at one of Toronto’s hot, new
residential properities, The Imperial Plaza. The evening was generously
sponsored by Camrost-Felcorop, with over 200 invitees attending. The
Lottery ended up raising $126,000.
The 2010 Glitter of Hope Lottery supported the Odette Cancer Centre at
the Sunnybrook Health Centre in Toronto. The Odette Cancer Centre is
one of the largest cancer centres in Canada and among the top 10 in the
world. They specialize in breast cancer, colorectal and prostate cancer.
The funds raised were put toward the Odette Cancer Centre’s Rapid
Diagnosis Unit, allowing for next-day diagnosis rather than the previous
4-week waiting period. The Glitter of Hope Lottery allowed the Canadian
jewellery community to be part of an exciting chapter in the history of
cancer care and treatment.
1. Anne and Kevin Kaye (Citizen Watch Co.)

2. Glitter of Hope Evening At The Imperial Plaza
3. David Feldman, The Evening Sponsor (Camrost-Felcorp)
4. Andrea Hopson (Tiffany + Co.)
2.
4.
3.
070-072.CJ_IndustryBuzz.indd 70 2/18/11 3:25:33 PM

Careers:
Dedicated to the
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Industry News: Searchable by category,
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showcase
A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, lucy@rivegauchemedia.com
or Karolann Cassman 416-203-7900 ext. 6126, karolann@gorgmgo.com
New!
Silver Pump Spray
A new enhanced formula with the
convenience of a pump spray. Maintains
the patina of silver while guarding against
tarnish for months. silver
pump spray
Find details on our website at www.hagertycanada.ca.
Hagerty Distributors
H&W Perrin Burney Giftware Prestige Pak Inc.
416-422-4600 416-736-9990 514-387-8888
Reliable Watch / Jean Michel Habsons Jewellery Supply
514-866-1095 604-708-9700
Canadian Jeweller Showcase & Marketplace

If You’re Reading It,
You Know It Works!
Call: 1.888.358.8186
27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6

T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621
www.midasjewelryinc.ca • Email: info@midasjewelryinc.ca
074-079.CJ_Showcase-Market.indd 74 2/18/11 3:48:54 PM

showcase
MCD Pearls Showcase 1/20/11 5:08 PM Page 1 or Karolann Cassman 416-203-7900 ext. 6126, karolann@gorgmgo.com
Your Headquarters For All Rolex

Aftermarket Accessories
00
27
We Also Stock t$
5c
1.8
Date, Mid-size, 8K
To
51 ne
And No Date 51
MCD PEARL IMPORTS

To
RM
PD o
RL Tw
p
Diamond
PD
0
40
5
$
Qu
Bezels.
00
SS
K/
18
Fits Sub 18 e
KY
a selection of strands, loose pearls and pearl jewellery 2 n
al
01 To
$2
& GMT J2 Tw
o
RL
85
iT
18KY - $325 25
0
$4
y
SS - $100 SS
K/
18
•l
Inserts 02
5
HOT O3
$25
RM
RL
o
SELLER
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w
01
es
0
SS
MBDB5015 K/
SS
T
$1
18 ne
1.40CT - 18K
00
02 To
pr
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VS2-S11 J1 Tw
LCDB5025 RM 75
ic
703-27 Queen St. E., Toronto, ON, M5C2M6 $750 $5
1CT - 18K
e
416.368.2690 info@mcdpearls.com VS2-S11
•o
$515
catalogue available upon request LCDB5050
v
1.50CT - 14K 5R
er
05
VS2-S11 O4 S
MCDB5020 RM K/S Gold
ni
MCDB5080 $735 8
1 s e
1.30CT - 18K
gh
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VS2-S11 3CT - 14K $6
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$675 VS2-S11
De
Machine $1350
HOT LBDB5015
li
Set SELLER 1CT - 18K
ve
We Stock Many VS2-S11
ry
$550
Different Styles And
Sizes Of Aftermarket
MBDB5000
1CT - 18K
Watchbands, LCDB5070
VS2-S11 Including 2CT - 14K
VS2-S11
$560 SS, Two LDBD5005 $935
Tone, 14K
Machine .70CT - 18K
VS2-S11 F.S. Enterprise is Not
Set
And 18k All
Affiliated with Rolex
$415 Watch, U.S.A., Inc.
Rolex is a Registered
Gold Watchbands.
Price based on
$1000-$1100 Gold Trademark of Rolex,
U.S.A., Inc.
F.S. ENTERPRISE
www.fsenterprise.com 888.699.8947
1059Findco_DZ 1 3/16/10 1:49:00 PM
The Jewel Candle Available From

H&W Perrin
416-422-4600
Specifically designed for sale in jewellery stores. Burney Giftware
416-736-9990
Includes a fabric gift bag Reliable Watch
and a decorative jewel / Jean Michel
514-866-1095
placed over the wick!
Prestige Pak Inc.
514-387-8888
Habsons Jewellery
Supply
604-708-9700
Available in 4 fragrances. Since 1895

Made in France. www.hagertycanada.ca

marketplace
The Murano Collection ™
Volume 18
exclusively
from:
J O H N ’ S W H O L E S A L E
J E W E L R Y L T D
1-877-80-JOHNS
Tel: 604-689-4190 Fax: 604-689-4139
J.W. Histead showcase ad:Layout 1 3/4/09 1:41 PM Page 1
Jewelry Sales Reps. Wanted

Canadian Distributorship and See us at
Authorized Retail Locations Available
New York Intl. Gift
Show, JCK Las Vegas
and JA New York Shows
IN JEWELLERY REPAIR pure beauty

YOUR
NAME E N V E L O P E has a name...
1A
LOWEST PRICES
DESIGN
N O I N
TO YOUR
OWN
C A N� D A
Exclusively available in Canada through
J.W. HISTED DIAMONDS LTD.
WISHES Vancouver, B.C.
ALL
PRINTING
1 - 800 661- 4410 1-800-663-1458
Online inventory
STEPS F A X : 1 - 4 5 0 6 6 1 - 4 9 9 9 www.jwdiamonds.ca
INCLUDED s t u d i o - p u b l i c i t y . c o m All NORDIC FIRE Diamonds are GIA Certified for accurate grading.

marketplace
H & W PERRIN Co. Ltd

Canada’s Leading Supplier of Watch & Clock Materials
PERRINS’ stocks a complete range of findings and settings for the jeweller and a
deep stock of materials for the clock & watchmakers
We inventory a large selection of tools, equipment & supplies for all the trades.
A long standing tradition of service since 1929.
STEWART’S HOROLOGY
REPAIR & RESTORATION
If you aren’t doing business with us, you’re doing it the hard way!
PHONE:
FAX:
(416) 422-4600 . . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-387-5117
(416) 422-0290 . . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-741-6139
• QUALITY service & attention to detail � sales@perrin.on.ca

• 5 highly qualified technicians
• Large inventory of parts & access to all major supply houses
• Repairs to fine watches, quartz & mechanical
• Restoration of pocket watches
1515 Portage Avenue, Winnipeg, MB R3G 0W7, Canada

Tel: (204) 789-9620 Email: stewbnz1@mts.net
• GOLD • PALLADIUM
• YELLOW • PLATINUM
• WHITE • SILVADIUM
• PINK • S-STEEL ALLOYCO
• GREEN • PRESET INTERNATIONAL INC
• STERLING • MOLDS
• BRONZE • ALLOYS
CALL TOLL FREE: 1-888-475-5384

Phone: 514-845-5384 • alloyco@alloyco.com • www.alloyco.com
55 Mont Royal W., suite 600, Montreal, Quebec, Canada, H2T 2S6

marketplace
Actual size 3.9" by 2.0"

Refine-All Metals Ltd.
Refining - Assaying - Trading Insurance for Customers Jewellery
Precious metal specialists and refiners of gold and platinum jewellery scrap
Check for our refining specials and on line prices

At: www.refinegold.ca
and www.goldrefiner.ca
Let Us Earn Your Confidence-Call Us Before You Refine
Tel: (416)7366052 Fax:(416)7364334 Toll Free:1-800-785-2371
359 Canarctic Drive,Downsview, Ontario, M3J 2P9
Web:www.refinegold.ca E-mail: info@refineallmetals.com
ALL UNDER
MARY JEWELLERY & LAPIDARY CO. LTD.

cjFebMar10_CJB_Ad_rev.indd 1 1/29/10 3:14:36 PM
&
MOUNT CENTRE JEWELLERY SUPPLY HOUSE
STONES JEWELLERY/FINDINGS/TOOLS/DISPLAYS
FOIL BACKS WEDDING BANDS ONE ROOF
SYNTHETICS TENNIS MOUNTS
GENUINES RING MOUNTS
MARCASITES RINGS, CHARMS IMPERIAL
PEARLS/SEED PEARLS BRACELETS/BANGLES

BEADS/BEAD STRANDS 10K, 14K, 18K, PLATINUM &
ROSE CUT GARNETS STERLING SILVER JEWELLERY
CONCAVE CUT MYSTIC TOPAZ CHAINS
ONYX/TIGER EYE ITALIAN JEWELLERY
RUBIES/SAPPHIRES/EMERALDS FINDINGS/METAL FINDINGS
PERIDOT/BLUE TOPAZ TITANIUM/TUNGSTEN/COBALT &
CAMEOS STAINLESS STEEL JEWELLERY
SWAROVSKI & SIGNITY STONES JEWELLERS TOOLS
8 HEART CZ/9 HEART CZ BOX & DISPLAYS
AND MORE... AND MORE...
FEATURING OUR MOST POPULAR COLLECTIONS COLL N

ECTIO
ROYAL CHAIN
SERVICES WE OFFER SO
UT TD
HC YL
HIN A ER
JE W ELL
Happy Happy
ENGRAVING OF GOLD, METALS AND GLASS YRAM
PHOTO ENGRAVING
SOUTH CHINA JEWELRY LTD.
Anniversary Anniversary
Krohn
LASER SOLDERING Industries, Inc.
RESTRINGING International Importer, Manufacturer, Retail and Wholesale of High Quality Diamonds
Cohler Enterprises, Inc.
WATCH GLASS CUTTING and Jewellery.
SOUTH Serving Canada
CHINA JEWELLERY since 1985.
LTD
ENAMELING NEW HAVING PROBLEMS FINDING CORNWALL

MIDTOWN PLAZA , SASKATOON
THE RIGHT DIAMONDS
CENTRE , REGINA FOR THE RIGHT PRICE?
LASER ENGRAVING NEW
• Specialize in rounds and princess cut diamonds 0.01ct - 2.00ct.
• Excellent cut diamonds in G.I.A. and E.G.L. Certificates
VIEW OUR CATALOGUES ONLINE @
• Diamond Semi Mounts available in Latest design
w w w. M A RY J E W E L L E RY. c o m Southchinajewelry.com
Open 7 days a week for your convenience
Ph: 1-306-931-3328 Fax: 1-306-975-9627
1st Avenue Midtown Plaza Saskatoon, SK S7K 1J9

marketplace
Project2:Express Gold Marketplace ad 2/25/09 3:11 PM Page 1
EXPRESS GOLD REFINING LTD.
PRECIOUS METALS DEALER
ASSAYING • REFINING •
• NO MINIMUM LOTS OR MINIMUM CHARGES
ExprEss Gold rEfininG ltd.

YOUR
• 4TH GENERATION EXPERIENCE
IN PRECIOUS METALS TRADE
LETPRECIOUS
US EARN YOUR TRUST
METALS DEALER
Web: www.xau.ca
Tel: (416) 363-0584 • Fax: (416) 363-9633 • Toll Free: 1-888-401-1111
Express Gold Refining has acquired the latest Assaying technology
21 Dundas
to provide with Suite
youSquare, 401, Toronto,
the fastest and ONmost
M5B 1B7 Email:
accurate results. We
info@xau.ca
guarantee to settle your GOLD, SILVER, PLATINUM and DENTAL
scrap in less than an 1 hour of receiving it. We will return to
you gold bars, silver, platinum or buy your metal at the most
competitive market prices.
Express Gold Refining is YOUR PRECIOUS METAL
DEALER OF CHOICE.
Please visit our website for the latest up-to-the
minute prices in the Canadian Market.
http://www.xau.ca
400 - 215 Victoria St, Toronto, ON M5B 1T9
Phone: 416.363.0584 | Toll-Free: 1.888.401.1111
Email: info@xau.ca
Accountant to reputed Canadian jewellers

Bookkeeping, Financial Statements, Taxes,
Budgeting and Projections
Subhash Sharma MBA, CMA
Certified Management Accountant
ENS Associates Inc.

100 King Street West, Suite 5700, Toronto, ON M5X 1C7
Tel: 416-439-4648
Email: ssharma@ensassociates.ca
Web: www.ensassociates.ca
AB A.B. MACHINERY
UNIVERSAL PACKAGE CORP.
A B
A.B. MACHINERY
PULSE POINT
PULSE POINT STUDIO
STUDIO 60
LASER WELDERS
LASER WELDERS
60 STUDIO
STUDIO 30
30
Jewellery Boxes & Displays
New &
New & LASER
UsedWELDERS
Used machinery and
machinery and
PULSE POINT STUDIO 60 STUDIO 30
Plastic We are seeking experienced sales reps with established
equipment for jewellers
Plastic
equipment
New for jewellers
& Used machinery and relationships with independent retailers. Fantastic commissions
Injectors
Plastic
Injectors BUY -- SELL
BUY SELL
equipment -- TRADE
TRADE
for jewellers
NewInjectors
www.abmachinery.com
www.abmachinery.com
BUY - SELL - TRADE HAVE YOU SEEN OUR NEW WEBSITE?
www.abmachinery.com
New & Used
& Used
New & Used CALL OR VISIT US @
Tel: (514)
(514) 737-1660
737-1660 Toll Free:
Free: (888)
(888) 901-8888
901-8888
www.universalpackagecorp.com
Tel: Toll
Fax: Tel:
Fax:
(514)
(514)
(514)
737-1660
737-9335
737-9335
Tollalex@abmachinery.com
Email:
Email:
Free: (888) 901-8888
alex@abmachinery.com
Tel: 1-866-887-7077
Fax: (514) 737-9335 Email: alex@abmachinery.com Fax: 514-341-6513
COLOMBIAN EMERALDS
classified
For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please
DIRECT DISTRIBUTOR contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, lucy@rivegauchemedia.com
FROM THE MINES or Karolann Cassman 416-203-7900 ext. 6126, karolann@gorgmgo.com
WHOLESALE
JEWELLERY STORE Help Wanted: Licensed Goldsmith Needed.
Must have 3 years experience. Skills to include
FOR SALE custom made work by hand, and custom made
A well established 25 year old jewellery oriental diamond cuts. Full time $17.00 per
YADIRA BARAHONA store, situated in a reputed area is for sale.
The owner will be retiring.
hour. Mail resume to:
B & L Jewellers
CELL: 519-617-2468
L , ON
ONDON
EMAIL: jadirajewel@hotmail.com Please call 416-763-0836 24 First Ave., Unit 1, St. Thomas,
ON, N5R 4M5

PAGE GET FREE INFORMATION! on any product advertised in this issue
sectionhead
080 SEE A PRODUCT YOU LIKE? WANT MORE INFORMATION, ABSOLUTELY FREE?…
2. Use this quick

1. See product you 3. Write the 4. Mail or fax us at 5. Receive free info
BY FAX want info on
reference list
number(s) on 1-888-849-0155 direct from as
below to find its
OR MAIL free info number the attached free or 416-703-6392 many advertisers
(it’s also on the ad) info card as you like
CONNECT WITH… page write # CONNECT WITH… page write #

24 Gold Group 2 101 JVC 61 120
Siffari 3 102 Crown Ring 63 121
UBM Asia 4-5 103 Reed Exhibits 81 122
Midas Jewelry 6-7 104 Pandora 85 123
Créations Malo 9 105 Mirage 86 124
Stuller 11 106 Jewelers Mutual 16 125
Crown Ring 13 107 GIA 16 126
Image Fifth Avenue 15 108 Metalsmiths Sterling 16 127
Jewelers Mutual 17 109 Nova Diamonds 18 128
GIA 21 110 PH Design 18 129
Metalsmiths Sterling 25 111 Pandora 18 130
MCD Pearls 27 112 JCK Las Vegas 19 131
Rousseau 28 113 Stuller 19 132
PH Design 31 114 Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair 19 133
Nova Diamonds 33 115 Midas Jewelery 20 134
Lega 37 116 Crown Ring 20 135
Noble Findings 41 117 Image Fifth Avenue 20 136
Smokecloak 39 118
Jewelers Mutual 57 119
FREE
Info Card & Subscription
To receive free information you must print clearly and fill out form completely.
 Yes! Please send me or continue to send me Canadian Jeweller magazine  No, don’t send
STEP 1 STEP 2 To qualify, check circles: Selling area of your store
 under 1,000 sq.ft.  1,001 - 3,000 sq.ft.
Signature: __________________________________________ Date: _______________ Which category best describes your  3,001 - 5,000 sq.ft.  over 5,000 sq.ft.
business classification?
Your Name: _________________________________________ Title: ________________  Education
Approximate annual sales volume
 under $500,000
 Retailer
Company Name: ___________________________________________________________  Manufacturer
 $500,000 - $1 million
 $1 million - $5 million
 Wholesaler
Address: _________________________________________________________________  Importer
 Designer
City: ________________________________ Province: ___________________________  over $20 million
 Services (repair, appraisals, etc.)
 Other: ________________________________ Categories you personally manage
Postal Code: ______________________________________________________________
 Retailer  Designer
Number of employees at your location
Phone: ______________________________ Fax: _______________________________  1-3  4-8  9-12  over 13  Gemologist  Supplier
 Manufacturer
Email Address (optional): _____________________________________________________ Number of locations: ______________________  Other _________________________________
STEP 3 Reserved exclusively for retailers

MARCH 2011
WRITE IN THE NUMBERS HERE FOR
EACH PRODUCT YOU WANT MORE Example
DETAILED INFORMATION ON
USE QUICK REFERENCE LIST AT TOP OF PAGE

101
STEP 4
Fax Now to: 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392 | or Mail card today to: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8
080.CJ_FaxBack.indd 80 2/18/11 2:52:19 PM

ShowcaSing our
PaSSion f or Jewelry
A rejuvenated buying experience at JCK.
Reimagined based on customer preferences, with enhanced show floor navigation
and smartly organized product groupings, retailers will effortlessly compare
related pieces and shop more resourcefully.
a new JcK exPerience at
mAndAl Ay bAy
Ju ne 3–6, 2011 M a n d a lay Bay H otel a n d C onven t i o n Ce n te r
reg is ter tod ay at w w w. J cKl a S Veg a S S h ow.c om

or call 203.840.5684 or 800.257.3626
CJ.Mar11_Reed Exhibit.indd 1 2/15/11 2:17:24 PM

lastword
Adventures in
high horology
At $810,000, this piece is obviously not for everyone, which is just as well, because there is only one of them. It is an exhilarating example, however, of the level of beauty
and craftsmanship to which our industry is capable of soaring. The Maki Monkey high jewellery watch, designed by Van Cleef & Arpels and set by master gemsetter Olivier
Vaucher, depicts two monkeys rendered in emeralds, diamonds, blue and pink sapphires and black onyx over a mother-of-pearl dial. It is part of the new, 18-piece Jules Verne
collection of watches with extraordinary dials, inspired by the author’s classic adventure stories.
By Carol Besler
082.CJ_LastWord.indd 82 2/18/11 9:27:01 AM

January 15 th
The moment we knew it was real.

See our March ads in Elle, Fashion, and Canadian Living.
To view our entire collection, visit Pandora.net.
U.S. Pat. No. 7,007,507 • • © • All rights reserved
CJ_Pandora_FebMar2011_V2.indd 1 2/1/2011 5:34:24 PM
CJ.Mar11_Pandora.indd 1 2/15/11 2:19:00 PM

Mirage Creations Inc.
221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4
Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677
www.miragecreations.com e-mail: info@miragecreations.com
CJ.Mar11_Mirage.indd 1 2/15/11 2:20:49 PM

Canadian Jeweller - March 2011 Issue

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Canadian Jeweller - March 2011 Issue

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MARCH 2011

for the business of retailing jewellery

001.CJ_Cover.indd 2 2/18/11 3:22:51 PM

For details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 80.

CJ_24Gold.indd 1 2/16/11 11:18:39 AM

For Details, write #102 on Free Info Page, page 80

Canada’s Leading Ring and

CJ.Mar11_Siffari.indd 1 2/15/11 1:12:23 PM

UBM Asia Ltd

6JG 9JG11_229x276_eng.indd 1 19/01/2011 4:54 PM IPP2011

21 – 25 September 2011 September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

A world-class signature of style

For further details, please visit our website www.JewelleryNetAsia.com

11 4:54 PM IPP2011 hseAd 229x276.indd 1 19/01/2011 12:26 PM

CJ.Jan11_Midas.indd 2 2/15/11 1:17:13 PM

New 19K Extreme White© • Displays • Marketing Kits • Buy-back Programs

CJ.Jan11_Midas.indd 3 2/15/11 1:17:35 PM

CONtRibUtORs chris Davey,Martin

head Office Head 60 West,

Check our Website for

For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 80

For Details, write #105 on Free Info Page, page 80

CJ_Mar11_Malo.indd 1 2/15/11 1:18:55 PM

010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 10 2/18/11 1:59:26 PM

To bring it to life, you They come to you for the

A few clicks, and

making us your go-to resource

for findings. We keep them all in stock so

guaranteed. To learn more,

For Details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 80

CJ.Mar11_Stuller.indd 1 2/15/11 1:20:29 PM

26 For The Record 54

30 Mining Feature 54 Designer Profile

010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 12 2/18/11 2:49:23 PM

CJ_CrownRing.indd 1 2/15/11 1:22:14 PM

The backbone of the

During my tenure on the Board of Directors of the

Our industry has seen many changes. Many companies

014.CJ_GuestEditor.indd 14 2/18/11 9:10:08 AM

Personal Jewelry Insurance

GIA Reports and Grading Systems

Metalsmiths Sterling CELTIC Suite

016-020.CJ_Product.indd 16 2/18/11 9:25:09 AM

dave feared for his life.

watch dave tell his harrowing

Coverage you can count on.

For Details, write #109 on Free Info Page, page 80

JM_Ad 1_Canadian Jeweler.indd 1 1/10/11 1:59:07 PM

016-020.CJ_Product.indd 18 2/18/11 9:25:49 AM

JCK Las Vegas

Bold, Beautiful Color from Stuller

Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

016-020.CJ_Product.indd 19 2/18/11 9:27:13 AM

Introducing the Ashley Anne Collection

Image Fifth Avenue

016-020.CJ_Product.indd 20 2/18/11 9:27:35 AM

Sooner or later, the world’s most

For Details, write #110 on Free Info Page, page 80

Shimmering at the 2nd Annual Governor’s

022-023.CJ_StarWatch.indd 22 2/18/11 9:55:39 AM

Taylor Swift is always a fan favourite but

022-023.CJ_StarWatch.indd 23 2/18/11 9:56:40 AM

Find out who is making headlines

into the jewellery business, but when the war