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From: "Willow Polson" <willow@castlecorps.com>

To: <eef@lists.yale.edu>
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 12:21 PM
Subject: EEF: Online clothing photos or images?

Hello, forgive me if this has been asked before. Are there any online
sources of photographs of extant linen garments, especially depicting how
these garments would have been worn? (I believe the recent Tutankhamen
clothing exhibit in Sweden(?) had reproductions that were placed on
mannequins IIRC.)

Also acceptible would be a good website (not for theatre costumes or the
like) with drawings or illustrations of how the linen wraps would have been
tied or the women's garment would have been constructed, perhaps with
paintings to illustrate this.

Of special interest is the garments of priestesses. I have also heard that

a priestess of Sekhmet was called "The Lady in Red" but cannot find an
image of a priestess in a red dress. Can anyone help? Thanks very much in
advance.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Rev. Willow Polson www.willowsplace.com
"First they ignore you, then they ridicule you,
then they fight you, then you win." -- Mahatma Gandhi
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

--

From: "A. K. Eyma" <ayma@tip.nl>

To: <eef@lists.yale.edu>
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 8:40 PM
Subject: EEF: (FWD) re: Online clothing photos or images?

--Three Messages Bundled and Forwarded--

==1==

From: Clair Ossian <clastic@airmail.net>

I think the only good and serious source will be the two books by
Vogelsang-Eastwood on ancient Egyptian clothing. She has patterns
and construction tips.

Vogelsang-Eastwood, G., (undated) Patterns for ancient Egyptian

clothing. Private(?), 49 p.

Vogelsang-Eastwood, G., 1993 Pharaonic Egyptian clothing. Brill, 195 p

I am not aware of any useful materials on-line.

Cheers...

Clair Ossian

==2==

From: Kkunhiraman@aol.com

Tutankhamun's Wardrobe is the title of an exhibition that was put

together by Dr. Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood and the Stitching Textile
Research Center in Leiden, Netherlands, with careful research after
studying the clothing found in his tomb.

As a travelling exhibit, moving out from the Swedish Museum of Textile

History where it might be housed, it has been shown in several countries.
Two years ago it was in the midwestern US where there is a large
Swedish population. I tried to get it out here to Berkeley California
but nobody was interested and time was short.
There is a book for sale with pictures:
G.M. Vogelsang-Eastwood, Tutankhamun's Wardrobe (1999)
ISBN 90-5613-042-0
She went to the trouble of researching the make-up of the materials and
had them woven as close to original as possible.
I do remember some comment somewhere else perhaps, that the
women's clothes were worn as one wears saris (referring to
New Kingdom) but speaking as one very familiar with wearing saris,
I think this is only so in a general sort of way.

I am waiting to see what others can contribute to this search as it is

very interesting to me. In past EEF archives there is an thread about how
they pleated their clothes (see December 2000) and a general thread
on clothing (April 1998).
I am always ready to jump in with a possible solution taken from
Indian tradition, and have seen Egyptian shirts in museums with the pleats
still in place.
Good luck. Katherine Kunhiraman
<kkunhiraman@aol.com>

==3==

From: "Derrick, Alexander" <Alexander.Derrick@adventure.com>

Greetings Willow,

regarding:
>Of special interest is the garments of priestesses. I have also heard
>that a priestess of Sekhmet was called "The Lady in Red" but cannot
>find an image of a priestess in a red dress. Can anyone help? Thanks
>very much in advance.

I have read that the Ancient Egyptians were not very skilled at dyeing
textiles. Is this true?

I also am interested in seeing any representations of a red or brightly

colored garments from AE.

I am also curious as to what kind of pigments would have been used in

the garment industry.

Kind Regards,
A Derrick

[Note of moderator:
In April 2003 there was a brief thread about Hathor and Sekhmet
as "Mistresses of the Red Cloth" - without much resolve. See also
Budge. _Gods of the Egyptians._ Vol.1. pp. 514-515. ]

--

From: "A. K. Eyma" <ayma@tip.nl>

To: <eef@lists.yale.edu>
Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2005 10:02 AM
Subject: EEF (FWD) re: Online clothing photos or images?

--Three Messages Bundled and Forwarded--

==1==

From: "Jim Ashton" <jim@pt.lu>

http://www.ashmolean.museum/gri/4tut.html, the excellent Griffith Institute

site, has original photos from the Carter excavation, together with scanned
Carter descriptions of the material. If you search long enough, you will
find Tutankhamuns shirts, scarves and much more.

Jim Ashton.

==2==

From: "Brian Yare" <brian@yare.org>

<< Are there any online sources of photographs of extant linen garments, >>

I assume that the Petrie Museum site has pictures of the two dresses (they
call them shirts) in their possession.

http://www.petrie.ucl.ac.uk/index2.html

Brian Yare

==3==

From: Jasmine Day <bossk@ozemail.com.au>

I forget the titles, but there are several Egyptian costume books - actually
paper doll books - by Tom Tierney that have excellent colour reconstructions
of Egyptian costumes of various eras being worn by men and women. These
should still be available. They are too good to cut up and play with!
Actually many well-illustrated children's books have what look to me like
fairly accurate (or to-the-best-of-our-knowledge) reconstructions of
Egyptian costumes being worn. Somehow adults' books don't focus as
much on such reconstructions.

The Petrie Museum has an Old Kingdom (?) shirt and a bead net dress (now
reconstructed). The Museo Egizio in Turin has garments from the tomb of Kha
and Merit (New Kingdom). You may be able to find illustrations of these
online, such as at the Petrie Museum's website.

Dr Jasmine Day
Cultural Anthropologist
Perth, Western Australia

--

From: "A. K. Eyma" <ayma@tip.nl>

To: <eef@lists.yale.edu>
Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2005 10:21 AM
Subject: EEF: re: Priestesses of Hathor and red cloth (was: Online clothing
photos?)

-----Forwarded Message -----

From: "Roxanne" <roxmaat@comcast.net>

Willow,

In regards to the priestess in 'red':

The red scarf was normally part of the costume for priestesses of Hathor
[Sekhmet] and considered symbolic of the Sekhmet myth regarding the
Destruction of Mankind (Richter 1999). Accompanying female dancers
in the Tomb of Kagemni are also depicted wearing " the [red] scarf
criss-crossed in front of the chest and hanging down in the back"

The link To Rev. Richter's webpage:

Richter, Reverend Barbara Ann. (1999) Red Scarf, Hethert [Online]

Available: http://www.hethert.org/red_scarf.htm

Photo source is Victor Rivas:

Rivas, Victor. (nd) Mastaba de Kagemni Memi (LS10), Galeria de Imagenes
de Amigos de la Egiptologia ~ AE (Friends of Egyptology), Barcelona,
Spain [Online]
Available: http://www.egiptologia.com/galeria/thumbnails.php?album=27

Roxanne Wilson
Manchester Egyptology Program

--

From: "Phil Payton" <payton@jps.net>

To: <eef@lists.yale.edu>
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 2:27 PM
Subject: EEF re: Online clothing photos or images?

I have pictures of a lst Dyn. shirt, two 5th dyn. "tunics" and the 5th
dyn.beaded dress that are (were?) on display at the Petrie museum.
If anyone is interested I would be pleased to send copies to you
off line.

Phil Payton

--

From: "steven gregory" <steve@sgregory.fsnet.co.uk>

To: <eef@lists.yale.edu>
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 9:24 PM
Subject: EEF: re: Priestesses of Hathor and red cloth

Dear Willow,
> sources of photographs of extant linen garments, especially depicting how
> these garments would have been worn?

> Of special interest is the garments of priestesses. I have also heard that
> a priestess of Sekhmet was called "The Lady in Red" but cannot find an
> image of a priestess in a red dress. Can anyone help? Thanks very much in
> advance.

Not a picture, but a description which may, I hope, be of some use. In

describing the statue of a cow kept in a richly adorned chamber at Sais
Herodotus remarks:

'the greater portion of it is hidden by a scarlet coverture; the head and

neck, however, which are visible, are coated very thickly with gold, and
between the horns there is a representation in gold of the orb of the sun.'
(II: 132)

The passage seems to have Hathoric implications; one might even wonder if
priestesses of the cult were similarly attired.

Regards, Steven Gregory

Institute of Archaeology and Antiquity,
University of Birmingham.

---

From: "A. K. Eyma" <ayma@tip.nl>

To: <eef@lists.yale.edu>
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2005 2:10 PM
Subject: EEF (FWD) re: Priestesses of Hathor and red cloth

--Two Messages Bundled and Forwarded---

==1==
From: "Gerard G. Passera" <gerard.passera@wanadoo.fr>

R. Wilkinson in 'The Complete Gods and Goddesses of Ancient Egypt page 144'
wrote that at Edfu, Hathor is called :"mistress of the red cloth".

A.ROBERTS in 'Hathor Rising, pages 14-16 ' wrote : "In the third month of
Shemou, came one of the most splendid and ancient festivals of Hathor. Amid
a convoy of boats, the holy cult statue of Dendara made the voyage
southwards to Edfu for the festival of 'The Beautiful Reunion' with the hawk
god, Horus ...................For thirteen days she resided in the Edfu
temple together with Horus, ...............She is 'the mistress of the
stream who makes the river rise'. When the Nile first began to rise it even
displayed her sacred colour: the first phase of the inundation was marked by
a greenish tint to its waters-the so-called 'Green Nile', which only lasted
a few days but was the herald of the real flood when the red, mud-laden
waters flooded back."

IMO the red scarf represents the Nile

G�rard Passera

==2==

From: Willow Polson <willow@castlecorps.com>

At 12:24 PM 6/26/2005, you wrote:

>The passage seems to have Hathoric implications; one might even wonder if
>priestesses of the cult were similarly attired.

This makes a lot of sense, as Hathor has some of the same myths associated
with her as Sekhmet and the early Bast as well -- carrying out the vengence
of the gods, the red beer meant to trick and pacify her, etc. Apparently Ra
had three eyes rather than two... LOL

I would be interested in ANY pictoral references showing female clergy in

any ritual clothing. Thanks again everyone.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Rev. Willow Polson www.willowsplace.com
"First they ignore you, then they ridicule you,
then they fight you, then you win." -- Mahatma Gandhi
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

---

From: <DPeregrine@aol.com>
To: <eef@lists.yale.edu>
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2005 2:48 PM
Subject: EEF: re: AE dyed cloth

Alexander Derrick wrote:

>I have read that the Ancient Egyptians were not very skilled at dyeing
>textiles. Is this true?
>I also am interested in seeing any representations of a red or brightly
>colored garments from AE.
>I am also curious as to what kind of pigments would have been used in
>the garment industry.

Someone commented the the AEs were not very good at dyeing cloth
- their apparent non-success may probablay be attributed to the relative
difficulty of getting linen to take dye. It is in contrast very easy to dye
cotton and wool. For anyone interested in the whole vexed subject
of textile fibers, their spinning, weaving and dyeing in antiquity I
recommend with enthusiasm two Books by Elizabeth Barber:
Women' Work and Prehistoric Textiles.

Diane Peregrine

--

From: "Jan Picton" <janpicton@ijnet.demon.co.uk>

To: <eef@lists.yale.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 3:06 PM
Subject: EEF re: Online clothing photos or images?

Dear Phil,

>I have pictures of a lst Dyn. shirt, two 5th dyn. "tunics" and the 5th
>dyn.beaded dress that are (were?) on display at the Petrie museum. If
>anyone is interested I would be pleased to send copies to you off line.

The bead net dress is on display at the travelling exhibition at the

Michael C Carlos Museum in Atlanta until November. The 1st and 5th
dynasty tunics are on display in the Petrie Museum. All are illustrated
on the Petrie Museum website www.petrie.ucl.ac.uk along with
(practically) all of the objects in the Petrie Museum.

Regards
Jan Picton
--
Jan Picton
Secretary, Friends of the Petrie Museum
H.R.A. Institute of Archaeology, UCL.

--

From: "Alexandra von Lieven" <avlieven@zedat.fu-berlin.de>

To: <eef@lists.yale.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 9:52 AM
Subject: EEF: re: AE dyed cloth

Dear list,

I do not know where the idea of supposed unsuccessfulness of

textile-dyeing in Egypt comes from, but it is evidently not true, see
Renate Germer, Die Textilfaerberei und die Verwendung
gefaerbter Textilien im Alten Aegypten, Aegyptologische
Abhandlungen 53, Wiesbaden 1992.

Regards,
Alexandra von Lieven

Dr. Alexandra von Lieven

Aegyptologisches Seminar
Freie Universitaet Berlin
Altensteinstr. 33
D-14195 Berlin
Germany

--

From: "Jana Jones" <jana2.jones@ozemail.com.au>

To: <eef@lists.yale.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2005 10:19 AM
Subject: EEF: re: AE dyed cloth

Dear List Members,

> Dr. Alexandra von Lieven wrote:

>> I do not know where the idea of supposed unsuccessfulness of
>> textile-dyeing in Egypt comes from, but it is evidently not true, see
>> Renate Germer, Die Textilfaerberei und die Verwendung
>> gefaerbter Textilien im Alten Aegypten, Aegyptologische
>> Abhandlungen 53, Wiesbaden 1992.

For those who do not have ready access to the publication cited, I would
like to briefly summarise Renate Germer's findings on dyeing of linen in
Ancient Egypt (pp 7-15; 20-23; 137-138).

* From the end of the Old Kingdom to the 18th Dynasty, archaeological
evidence shows that mineral dyes, especially iron oxide, were used to
produce yellows, reds, and browns. Germer notes that at the end of the
O.K., red and golden-brown coloured textiles must have been quite special,
as they have been found in royal contexts (e.g., the pyramids of Pepi I and
Merenre, 6th Dynasty). These textiles are no longer extant, so have not
been subjected to chemical analysis. However, during the Middle Kingdom,
there is ample evidence for greater quantities of mineral-dyed textiles,
including red shrouds (some examples from Dahshur are in the Leiden
Museum).

* In the mid-18th Dynasty, new textile dyeing techniques came from

Palestine, and the use of plant dyes resulted in a greater variety of
colours. (The earliest evidence is from the tomb of Thutmosis IV).
Madder (red) and indigo (blue) have been identified. However,
madder-dyed textiles were not colourfast until the introduction of
alum as a mordant in the 21st Dynasty. Safflower (also resulting
in shades of red) has been identified in 21st Dynasty finds, but as
Germer states, because it is light fugitive, it may no longer be
visible in 18th Dynasty textiles.

In my own work with Pre- and Early Dynastic textiles, I have seen only
one example of early red linen; a very small fragment from Hierakonpolis,
from the elite cemetery HK6, dated to NIIA-B (c. 3550-3400BC,
according to latest chronology of Stan Hendrickx). Under the
microscope it is quite clear that the finely ground red oxide was
applied by rubbing it into the surface of the cloth. It is possible to
see granules of the mineral, which has not penetrated into the
fibres, but sits on the surface of the weave. Washing would not
completely remove the colour, but it would result in a 'speckled'
appearance, necessitating re-dyeing. I have examined similarly treated
later examples from Elephantine, (the O.K. burnt palace, the Early First
Intermediate foundation phase of the bakery, and the M.K. settlement area).
However, the coarse quality, thick encrustation and context of the F.I.P.
find may suggest that it was originally a sack that contained the ground
pigment for pottery slip. (report in Guenter Dreyer et al., 'Stadt und
Tempel von Elephantine 31./32 Grabungsbericht', MDAIK 61, in
press).

Many old reports mention 'dyed' Predynastic funerary textiles, especially

yellow and reddish-brown. I have investigated quantities of these samples
in various museums, but am convinced that the majority are simply
discoloured from body exudate, balsams and possibly resinous substances.

So, I would not say that the ancient Egyptians were 'unsuccessful' in
textile dyeing, but it was certainly not a simple process to dye flax,
nor was it common-place!

Further to the thread on A.E. dress, in my opinion the only reliable

interpretation of how the garments may have been worn is that by Gillian
Vogelsang-Eastwood (Pharaonic Egyptian Clothing, etc., already cited in
previous letters). I would be very wary of most popular works, which often
adapt modern techniques of clothing construction to the iconography!

Other useful works by Vogelsang-Eastwood on A.E. textile production

include the chapter 'Textiles', in P. T. Nicholson and I. Shaw eds.,
Ancient Egyptian Materials and Technology (Cambridge, 2000) 268-298,
and B. J. Kemp and G. Vogelsang-Eastwood, The Ancient Textile
Industry at Amarna (London, 2001).

Best wishes
Jana Jones

Ancient History
Macquarie University
Sydney, Australia

--
From: "Lida Valkering" <misscelica@quicknet.nl>
To: <eef@lists.yale.edu>
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 1:01 PM
Subject: EEF re: Online clothing photos or images?

Jasmine Day wrote:

>I forget the titles, but there are several Egyptian costume books -
>actually paper doll books - by Tom Tierney that have excellent
>colour reconstructions of Egyptian costumes of various eras
>being worn by men and women. These should still be available.

The paper dolls book by Tom Tierney, Jasmine Day was referring to was
published by Dover Publications in 1997, ISBN: 0-486-29585-0.
(www.doverpublications.com) It contains 2 dolls, 16 full-color costumes
and 8 plates of lightweight stock.
I have bought this book last november in the American Univerity Bookshop
in Cairo.

Kind regards,

Lida Valkering

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