131 FESTBIER

IPAS REVIEWED

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Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine®

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| ISSUE 46
 FAMILY OWNED,
OPERATED & ARGUED OVER
 Friday m
ay 28th
, 2021

It start
ed off
IPLs. S w
ure, m ith a little ne By Kevin
any ar
“IPL” a
re bad e delic gativity. I’ve Davey
comes ,b io us go t
across ut the vast m and in no w an opinion t
camps in a ay os
are: th two ways d jority are, to am I saying hare: I don’
e “IPA epend me at that be t like
with la in le
IPA wit ger ye g on how th ast, clunky ers defined a
ast ” ap e . s
h
and su lager yeast: proach IPL was bre The clunkine
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see wh east fr s in th “Dry-h os
a om is fa opped e two
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thumb lly doe g does lly 34/ erican
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rs that Usually, the rk m ip
try this fermen ork with Am the same. T ent cold and e
approa tation erican he lage
ch don is h hop re
’t hang urried, or it s. That stick sters
their h is mis- s out li
ats on ha ke
lager s ndled becau
tyles. T se
hey ju
st

Cold IPA is a newer term for a style of beer that aims for a crisper IPA
You don’t want to
coined by Kevin Davey, Brewmaster at Wayfinder.
miss this episode!
Kevin weighs in on a few top tips for anybody interested in brewing a
Cold IPA of their own, making sure to cover water profile, base malts,
mash temperature, and his unique technique of developing in the
middle of the hop creep.
So for all this and more about Relapse Cold IPA from Wayfinder Beer,
tune in today!

shop.countrymalt.com Available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and other preferred platforms.

HAND SELECTED. Always.
At NYHG, we believe in bringing only the highest quality hops and
fruit purees to the market. We want your beer, what we consume,
to be the absolute best.

(607) 238-7839 @nyhopguild

sales@nyhopguild.com
nyhopguild.com @nyhopguild
 | CONTENTS: AUG-SEPT 2021 |

44
Gearhead:
Pilot Breweries
Some brew systems make beer for us to
drink. Others just solve mysteries.

48
Festbier: The World-
Famous Party Lager
Amber or gold? Either way, it ought to be
drinkable in quantity.

53
IPA: Bright & Juicy &
Bitter & Soft & More
Exploring the outer limits of the galaxy’s
favorite craft style.
54 | Flavor Fever: Deconstructing
the Heady Aromas of IPA
Randy Mosher dissects the intricacies
of what we smell and taste in IPA.
58 | Hop Terpenes: Brewing with
the Essence of Hops
Liquid hop terpenes can deliver a big
boost to the IPA bouquet.
60 | German IPA: It Should Be
More of a Thing
The idea is simple: an IPA that
showcases Germany’s undersung
53 aroma hops.
64 | No Rests for the Wicked:
64 54 Black IPA, Extracted
Once upon a time, the “P” in “IPA”
stood for pale. Now, maybe, it stands
for “postmodern.”
67 | Growing Up Neomexicanus
These characterful hops native to
the American Southwest present
new challenges and opportunities.
70 | Triple IPAs & Beyond:
Battling Against Nature
The ingredients are all against you
doing this and making it drinkable.
Go to battle with a plan.
74 | Blending Hops for Maximum
Impact with Matt Brynildson
Inside Firestone Walker’s methodical
approach to blending hops to achieve
elevated flavors and aromas.
77 | Tasted: IPA & Festbier
BEERANDBREWING.COM |3
| CONTENTS |

44
THE MASH

11 | Infographic
12 | Editors’ Picks
16 | Special Ingredient: Elderflower
20 | Love Handles
31 | Fresh Beers (Sponsored)

BREWING
32 40
22 | Style School: Lithuanian
Farmhouse Ales 48
28 | Make Your Best: British Strong
Ale & Scottish Light Ale

BREAKOUT BREWERS

32 | Burke-Gilman Brewing
35 | Godspeed Brewery

PICK SIX

38 | Averie Swanson of Keeping

Together selects an experience-
driven six pack of beers that
capture moments in time.

COOKING WITH BEER

40 | Some Like It Hot (& Tangy):

Cooking with IPA

MORE

94 | Advertiser Index
96 | Chill Plate

Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine® (print ISSN 2334-119X; online

22 35
ISSN 2334-1203) is published six times a year in January,
February, May, July, August, and November for $29.99 per year
(six issues) by Unfiltered Media Group, LLC at 1300 Riverside
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4| CRAFT BEER & BREWING

 RAHR MALTED

OATS
YOUR NEW GO-TO FOR HAZY IPAS
OR ANY BEER STYLE
WHERE INCREASED FOAM STABILITY
AND FULLER MOUTHFEEL IS DESIRED.
| RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE |
| CONTRIBUTORS IN THIS ISSUE |
Kate Bernot is a contrib-
uting editor for Craft Beer
& Brewing Magazine®
and a Sightlines contribu-
tor to Good Beer Hunting.
She was previously the
beer editor at DRAFT Mag-
azine and is a certified
beer judge. She lives in
Missoula, Montana, with
a black lab and three
backyard chickens.
6| CRAFT BEER & BREWING
Stephen Beaumont
has covered the beer
industry for three de-
cades and is the author
or coauthor of 15 books
on beer and spirits, in-
cluding his most recent
solo effort, Will Travel for
Beer, and the upcoming
third edition of The
World Atlas of Beer (with
Tim Webb). When not
traveling to taste, talk,
or teach, he resides
with his wife, Maggie, in
downtown Toronto.
HOMEBREW RECIPES
Elderflower Saison Counter Weight Fest Bier
Joe Stange Matt Westfall, Counter Weight
Page 16 Brewing
Page 50
Lithuanian-Style
Farmhouse Ale New Image Pure Isolate
Joe Stange & Lars Marius Garshol Double IPA
Page 24 Brandon Capps, New Image
Brewing
Wolf & Workman Page 59
British-Style Strong Ale
Josh Weikert Kehrwieder SHIPA: Callista
Page 28 German IPA
Oliver Wesseloh, Kehrwieder
Lerwick Light Kreativbrauerei
60-Shilling Ale Page 63
Josh Weikert
Page 30 To Cascadia! American
Burke-Gillman Black Ale
Annie Johnson
Černý Kov Dark Lager Page 66
Julia Davis, Burke-Gillman Brewing
Page 33 Zappa SMaSH Session IPA
Annie Johnson
Burke-Gillman Page 69
The Hopsplainer
Imperial Hazy IPA Rip Current Hop Wine
Phil Pesheck, Burke-Gillman Quadruple IPA
Brewing Paul Sangster
Page 34 Page 72
Godspeed Ochame
Green Tea IPA
Luc Lafontaine, Godspeed Brewery
Page 37
RECIPE PHOTO: MATT GRAVES/WWW.MGRAVESPHOTO.COM; CONTRIBUTOR PHOTOS: JESSICA SUWOROFF; COURTESY STEPHEN BEAUMONT;
COURTESY HOLLIE STEPHENS; COURTESY ANNIE JOHNSON; JULIE VERIVE; COURTESY RANDY MOSHER
Hollie Stephens is Annie Johnson is an John M. Verive is a Los Randy Mosher has
a beer writer and experienced R&D brewer, Angeles–based freelance spent most of his career
homebrewer based in IT specialist, and writer who’s been cover- working on creative
New Mexico. Her work national beer judge. Her ing craft beer for almost projects revolving
has appeared in Hop awards include 2013 a decade. He likes his around beer. Author of
Culture, VinePair, Brewer American Homebrewer IPA bright and bitter, Tasting Beer and four
& Distiller International, of the Year honors. As his pilsner hoppy, and other books, he also
and other publications. an influential voice in his milds anyway he can teaches, consults on
American brewing today, get them. He’s always recipes and branding,
her recorded oral his- looking for stories of the and is a partner in two
tory is preserved in the people and machines Chicago-area breweries:
Smithsonian National behind your favorite 5 Rabbit Cervecería and
Museum of American brews; follow along at Forbidden Root.
History’s Brewing History @beeroftomorrow on
Initiative. instagram and
@octopushat on Twitter.
BREW YOUR
SUPPORT
WITH THE 4TH ANNUAL VETERANS BLEND

Help Connect Rescue Dogs

with Military Veterans in Need
Each harvest season, Yakima Chief Hops works to connect our military heroes
from field to pint with our annual Veterans Blend. Inspired by our own military
Veteran employees, this project aims to support and thank the women and
men who serve our country. Every year, we collaborate with Veteran brewers
to select a different hop blend recipe and nonprofit to receive a donation.
With this community blend, we also hope to inspire brewers to multiply these
efforts through their own special beers. This year, we are pleased to partner
with K9s for Warriors, which provides Veterans with service dogs and canine
companionship along with additional resources to help those suffering from
PTSD, traumatic brain injury and military sexual trauma.

Visit yakimachief.com to purchase the Veterans Blend and create something

#BiggerThanBeer.

Matt Barnaby (pictured) is a veteran brewer and co-owner of Barnaby Brewing in Juneau, AK

AVAILABLE FOR PRESALE JULY 4TH

509 453 4792 | HOPS@YAKIMACHIEF.COM | WWW.YAKIMACHIEF.COM
| EDITOR’S NOTE |

THERE’S NO DENYING THE POWER OF IPA. You may love it or
hate it. You may cringe at how everything with the least bit of hops
is marketed as IPA. But it’s irrefutable that the style has come to
define the very idea of craft beer.
Amazingly, this heavyweight of the craft segment has been
anything but static. In the history of brewing, has any style of
beer—or family of styles, in this case—evolved more rapidly than
IPA has in the past decade?
I’m not just talking about the rise of hazier, juicier IPA. Beers
exist in context and as products of communication among
brewers and the market. Trends and influences bleed easily
through the crude categoriza-
tions we call styles. New hops
drive changes in how we brew
all sorts of IPA. Techniques
develop for brewing better
bright-and-bitter IPA, then be-
come crucial to hazies; in turn,
tricks learned in brewing hazy
IPA lead to changes in the West
Coast style (not to mention oth-
er beers, such American wheat,
American pilsner, and more).
As we learned last issue, IPA
techniques even affected how
one Polish brewery designs its
dry-hopped Baltic porter. The threads of influence and impact
weave throughout the world of brewing, refusing to fit convenient
boxes. Plainly, even the terms “hazy” and “West Coast” fall well
short of describing much of what’s happening with IPA.
You’d think that in this—our seventh annual IPA issue—we
might be tired of working through the same territory. Nothing
could be further from the truth. Every year, we find altered
terrain to explore; each issue becomes a snapshot in time, an
imperfect reflection of IPA at the moment. This issue is no
exception. Momentum swings. The beers that move our judges
change. Brut IPA comes and goes. We witness trends such as
growing bitterness in hazies or greater tropical flavors in West
Coast IPA. The lines, inevitably, continue to blur.
After a pandemic year, we see renewed interest in imperial
IPA—as well as other styles that had all but disappeared commer-
cially, such as black IPA (or Cascadian dark/American black ale,
as you like). Dramatic change can compel a return to nostalgic
comfort, but never a true return to how it used to be—instead,
we see recontextualized takes on the older thing, made with new
knowledge, techniques, and ingredients that have developed since.
We also get to observe this synthesis in real time, as brewers
apply historically based lager techniques to IPA. The “cold IPA”
approach is only a year or two old, but it’s catching on in a big
way with both brewers and our judges. Is it the front end of an-
other huge shift? We’ll tell you in a couple years, as we reflect
back and mark the change yet again.
Regardless of your personal inclinations for IPA and its many
iterations, we hope you enjoy this 2021 take on the biggest of
craft-beer styles. We made it for you.
Editorial Director Jamie Bogner
Managing Editor Joe Stange
Contributing Editor Kate Bernot
Writers Jeff Alworth, Stephen Beaumont,
Drew Beechum, Matthew Brynildson,
Christopher Cina, Alexander Gates, Annie Johnson,
Randy Mosher, David Nilsen, Ryan Pachmayer,
Hollie Stephens, John M. Verive, Josh Weikert
Photographers Matt Graves, Christopher Cina,
Darin Oman
Illustrators Ansis Puriņš, Jamie Bogner
Production Mark Dobroth
Proofreader Nancy Arndt
Print Management Trish Faubion
Tasting Panel Josh Aune, Cy Bevenger,
Mark Boelman, Geoff Coleman, Greg Crum,
Jester Goldman, Paul Graham, Fred Hirsch,
Matt Kunze, Ted Manahan, Paul McGrew,
Andy Mitchell, Ryan Pachmayer, Eric Reinsvold,
Nathan Rooen, Joe Stange, Jim Turk
Publisher Haydn Strauss
Media Experience Manager Blake Osmond
FOR MEDIA SALES INQUIRIES, please call 888-875-8708 x2 or
email advertising@beerandbrewing.com.
Customer Success Manager Arielle Thompson
RETAILERS: If you are interested in selling Craft Beer &
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Find us:
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Editorial and sales office:
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Subscription Inquiries:
Craft Beer and Brewing Magazine
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We invite previously unpublished manuscripts and materials,
but Unfiltered Media Group, LLC, accepts no responsibility for
unsolicited manuscripts and other materials submitted for
review. The editorial team reserves the right to edit or modify
any material submitted.
Contents copyright © 2021 Unfiltered Media Group, LLC. All
rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced
in whole or in part in print or electronically without the written
consent of Unfiltered Media Group, LLC. All items submitted
to Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine® become the sole property of
Unfiltered Media Group, LLC. The opinions and claims of the
contributors and advertisers in Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine®
are not necessarily those of the Publisher or Unfiltered Media
Group, LLC. Printed in the U.S.A.
Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine® is published by
Unfiltered
Media Group, LLC
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Cofounder & CEO John P. Bolton, Esq.

Jamie Bogner Unfiltered
Cofounder & CCO Jamie Bogner
Cofounder & Editorial Director, Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine®
MediaStrauss
COO Haydn Group, LLC
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8| CRAFT BEER & BREWING UNFIL

TERED
UNFILTERED
MEDIA
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GROUP, LLC
GROUP LLC GROUP, LLC
NEW BARLEY
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 | THE MASH |
Every year the Brewer’s Association compiles and crunches
sales data from craft breweries across the U.S. to create a
Top 50 list that ranks breweries on the amount of beer they
sold in the previous year. Here is the progression of rankings
since 2007.

The Craft Top 50 Every year the Brewer’s Association compiles and crunches
Ownership
sales

sold in

Acquired
since

Change
data the
Every year
Every50year
Top
“craft” listthe
the
Brewer’s
that
changes
fromBrewer’s
craft breweries
Association
craftAssociation
ranks
sales data fromdefinition.
sales data from
did
across
breweriescompiles
on andnot
tofit
the U.S.and
compiles
the crunches
the amount
across U.S. of
craft breweries across the U.S. to create a
previous year. Here is the progression
Top 50 list that ranks breweries on the amount of beer
Top 50 list that ranks breweries on the amount of beer they
since
sold in2007.
the previous year. Here is the progression of rankings
sold in the previous year. Here is the progression of rankings
2007.
since 2007.
brewery.
by an existing craft
Ownership changes did not fit
“craft” definition.
Ownership
Ownership
Ownership
changes did not fit
inbychanges
“craft brewery” definition.
did not fit
changes
create a
crunches
to beer they
create
of
a
rankings
they

Calendar year 2020 was anything but normal, yet craft brewers found craft did not fit “craft” definition
“craft” definition.
“craft”
Acquireddefinition.
an existing
ways to keep the drinking public’s thirst in check. Here, we plot the Legend: Acquired
Acquired by anby
Acquired
brewery.by an existing
brewery. an
craft
existing existing craft brewery
craft
moves in the Brewers Association top 50 from 2007 to the present. Change
Change in “craftin
brewery.
Change in “craft“craft
brewery”
brewery” brewery”
definition.
definition. definition
Change in “craft brewery” definition.

1 1 D.G. Yuengling
Boston Beer 1 Boston Beer 1
Boston Beer
2 2
1 D.G. Yuengling 1 D.G. Yuengling
Sierra Nevada Boston Beer
Sierra Nevada 2 2 Boston Beer
New Belgium 3 3 Sierra Nevada
Sierra Nevada 2 Boston Beer
New Belgium
1
3 Gambrinus 4 4
1 D.G. Yuengling
3 Sierra
Duvel Moorgat USA Nevada
2 Boston Beer
Sierra Nevada 2 2 Boston Beer
Gambrinus 4 Pyramid 5 5 Gambrinus4 Duvel Moorgat USA
New Belgium 3 New Belgium
Pyramid
3
5 Matt Brewing 6 6
3 Sierra Nevada
CANarchy5 Gambrinus
3 Sierra Nevada
Gambrinus 4 Deschutes 7 7 Bell’s 6 4 Duvel Moorgat USA
Gambrinus 4 Matt Brewing
Pyramid
6
5
7
Boulevard 8 8 Ventures5
CANarchy
Artisanal Brewing
Gambrinus
7 Bell’s
4 Duvel Moorgat USA
Deschutes
Matt Brewing 6 Full Sail 9 9 Stone 6 Artisanal
CANarchy
8 Ventures Brewing
Pyramid 5 Boulevard
Deschutes
8
7 Harpoon 10 10 Deschutes7 Bell’s
5 Gambrinus
Full Sail 9 9 Stone
Alaskan 11 11 Sweetwater
8 Artisanal Brewing
Matt Brewing 6 Boulevard
Harpoon
8
10 Magic Hat 12 12 10 Ventures
New Glarus Deschutes 6 CANarchy
Full Sail 9 9 Stone
Alaskan 11 Anchor 13 13 Matt Brewing
11 Sweetwater
Deschutes 7 Harpoon
Magic Hat
10
12 Bell’s 14 14 Brooklyn10 Deschutes
12 New Glarus
7 Bell’s
8
Alaskan
Anchor
11
13
Shipyard 15 15 Harpoon 11 Sweetwater
13 Matt Brewing
8 Artisanal Brewing
Boulevard Magic Hat
Bell’s
12
14
Summit 16 16 Stevens12Point New Glarus
14 Brooklyn Ventures
Abita 17 17 Odell 13
Anchor 13 Matt Brewing
Full Sail 9 Shipyard 15
14
Gordon Biersch 18 18 Minhas
15 Harpoon
14 Brooklyn
9 Stone
Bell’s
Summit 16 Brooklyn 19 19 Abita 16 Stevens Point
Shipyard 15 15 Harpoon
Harpoon 10 Abita 17 Stone 20 20 Tröegs 17 Odell 10 Deschutes
Summit18 Stevens Point
Summit 16 16
Gordon Biersch 18 Rogue Ales 21 21
Minhas
Alaskan 11 Abita
Brooklyn
17
19
Long Trail 22 22 17 Odell
Great Lakes
19 Abita 11 Sweetwater
Gordon Biersch 18 New Glarus 23 23 August Schell
18 Minhas
Stone 20 20 Tröegs
Magic Hat 12 Brooklyn 19 Kona 24 24 Three Floyds
19 Abita 12 New Glarus
Rhinegeist Summit
Rogue Ales 21 21
Dogfish Head 25 25
Stone 20 20 Tröegs
Anchor 13 Long Trail
Rogue Ales
22
21
23
Firestone Walker 26 26 Alaskan22 Great Lakes
21 Summit
23 August Schell
Gordon Biersch
13 Matt Brewing
New Glarus Great Lakes 27 27
Long Trail 22 22 Great Lakes
Bell’s 14 Kona
New Glarus
24
23
Lagunitas 28
Flying Dog 29
CraftWork Cold Spring 28

29
Georgetown
24 Three Floyds
Allagash23 August Schell
14 Brooklyn
Dogfish Head 25 25 Rhinegeist
Kings & Convicts/
Shipyard 15 Kona
Firestone Walker
24
26
Sweetwater 30
Bridgeport 31
30

31
24 Three Floyds
Ballast Point
26 Alaskan
Long Trail
15 Harpoon
Dogfish Head 25 25 Rhinegeist
Narragansett Gordon Biersch
Great Lakes 27 27
Rock Bottom 32 32
Summit 16 Firestone Walker
Lagunitas
26
28 CraftWork Cold Spring
26 Alaskan
28 Georgetown
16 Stevens Point
Odell 33 33 Ninkasi
Great Lakes 27 27 Gordon Biersch
Flying Dog 29 BJ’s 34 34 29 Allagash
21st Amendment
Abita 17 Lagunitas
Sweetwater
28
30 Victory 35 CraftWork Cold Spring 35 Flying Dog
30
Georgetown
28 Kings & Convicts/
17 Odell
Ballast Point
Flying Dog 29 Mac and Jack’s 36 36 Surly 29 Allagash
Gordon Biersch 18 Bridgeport
Sweetwater
31
30 Lost Coast 37 Southern Tier 37
31 Long Trail
30 Kings & Convicts/
Rogue Ales
18 Minhas
Rock Bottom 32 32 Ballast Point
Narragansett
Bridgeport 31 Big Sky 38 38 Lost Coast
31 Long Trail
Brooklyn 19 Odell 33
Pete’s Brewing 39 39 Revolution Ninkasi
33 19 Abita
Rock Bottom 32 32 Narragansett
BJ’s 34 Otter Creek 40 40 Times21st Amendment
Modern 34
Stone 20 Odell
Victory
33
35 Karl Strauss 41 Green Flash 41
33 Ninkasi
BrewDog35 Flying Dog
20 Tröegs
BJ’s 34 Founders 34 21st Amendment
Mac and Jack’s 36 Breckenridge 42 42 Saint Arnold
36 Surly
Rogue Ales 21 Victory
Lost Coast
35
37 Gordon Biersch 43
Southern Tier
Sixpoint Sixpoint 43 Toppling35 Flying Dog
Goliath
37 Rogue Ales
21 Summit
Mac and Jack’s 36 Anderson Valley 44 Oskar Blues 44 36 Surly
Two Roads
Long Trail 22 Big Sky
Lost Coast
38
37 Boulder Beer 45 Southern Tier 45
38 Lost Coast
Fremont37 Rogue Ales 22 Great Lakes
Pete’s Brewing 39 39 Revolution
North Coast 46 Ballast Point 46 Shipyard
Big Sky 38 38 Lost Coast
New Glarus 23 Otter Creek 40 McMenamins 47 Smuttynose 40 Modern Times
47 Left Hand 23 August Schell
Pete’s Brewing 39 39 Revolution
Karl Strauss 41 Utah Brewers 48 Saint Arnold Allagash Green Flash
North Coast Avery 48 Creature41 BrewDog
Comforts
Kona 24 Otter Creek
Breckenridge
40
42 Capital 49 Real Ale
Founders Uinta Four Peaks Real Ale Wachusett 49 Montauk42 Modern
40 Times
Saint Arnold 24 Three Floyds
Karl Strauss 41 Blue Point 50 Tröegs Green Flash 41 BrewDog
50 New Holland
Gordon Biersch 43 Sixpoint Sixpoint 43 Toppling Goliath
Dogfish Head 25 Breckenridge
Anderson Valley
42
44 2007
Oskar Blues 2008 2009
Founders
2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020
42 Saint Arnold
44 Two Roads
25 Rhinegeist
Gordon Biersch 43 Sixpoint Sixpoint 43 Toppling Goliath
Boulder Beer 45 45 Fremont
Firestone Walker 26 Anderson Valley 44 Oskar Blues 44 Two Roads 26 Alaskan
North Coast 46 Ballast Point 46 Shipyard
Boulder Beer 45 45 Fremont
Great Lakes 27 McMenamins
North Coast
47
46
Smuttynose
Ballast Point
47 Left Hand
46 Shipyard
27 Gordon Biersch
Utah Brewers 48 Saint Arnold Allagash North Coast Avery 48 Creature Comforts
Smuttynose
Lagunitas 28 CraftWork McMenamins
Capital Cold Spring
47
49
Saint Arnold
Real Ale Uinta
Allagash
Four Peaks Real Ale
Avery
Wachusett
47 Left Hand
49 Montauk
48 Creature Comforts
28 Georgetown
Utah Brewers 48 North Coast
Blue Point 50 Tröegs 50 New Holland
Flying Dog 29 Capital 49 Real Ale Uinta Four Peaks Real Ale Wachusett 49 Montauk 29 Allagash
2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 Tröegs2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020
50 New Holland
Blue Point 50
Sweetwater 30 30 Kings & Convicts/
2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 Ballast Point
Bridgeport 31 31 Long Trail
Rock Bottom 32 32 Narragansett

Odell 33 33 Ninkasi

BJ’s 34 34 21st Amendment

Victory 35 35 Flying Dog

Mac and Jack’s 36 36 Surly

Lost Coast 37 Southern Tier 37 Rogue Ales

Big Sky 38 38 Lost Coast

Pete’s Brewing 39 39 Revolution

Otter Creek 40 40 Modern Times

Karl Strauss 41 Green Flash 41 BrewDog

Breckenridge 42 Founders 42 Saint Arnold

Gordon Biersch 43 Sixpoint Sixpoint 43 Toppling Goliath

Anderson Valley 44 Oskar Blues 44 Two Roads

Boulder Beer 45 45 Fremont

North Coast 46 Ballast Point 46 Shipyard

McMenamins 47 Smuttynose 47 Left Hand

Utah Brewers 48 Saint Arnold Allagash North Coast Avery 48 Creature Comforts

Capital 49 Real Ale Uinta Four Peaks Real Ale Wachusett 49 Montauk

Blue Point 50 Tröegs 50 New Holland

2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020

Data source: Brewers Association BEERANDBREWING.COM | 11

| THE MASH |
Editors’ Picks
Anton Paar’s
New EasyDens
$349; easydens.com
THE AUSTRIAN COMPANY KNOWN
for making much of the beverage indus-
try’s lab-testing equipment recently re-
leased a new version of its digital hydrome-
ter, aimed at homebrewers and potentially
useful for smaller brewing operations. Full
disclosure: We never tried the first-genera-
tion EasyDens, but the company advertises
these improvements over the previous
model: a more compact design, faster
measurement, higher accuracy and stabil-
ity, faster Bluetooth connection with your
smartphone, and better protection from
dust and water droplets.
12 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
The attraction is obvious: The ability to
get quick, accurate gravity measurements
using very little liquid, track your fermen-
tation on your smartphone or other device
over time, and save that data to compare
with future batches. Speaking for our-
selves, the appeal of being able to easily
chart and consult fermentation over time
on our phones is a great incentive to take
more readings—to simply know more
about what’s happening with our next beer.
With the EasyDens, there’s no need to
get out the thief and fill up a test tube for
your hydrometer. To get a gravity reading
on the EasyDens, you need only about 2 ml
of wort—less than half a teaspoon. It mea-
sures density on whatever scale you’re likely
to be using for fermented drinks: specific
gravity, degrees Plato, Brix, or grams per
cubic centimeter (g/cm3). As fermentation
progresses, the app calculates ABV auto-
matically based on those readings.
We had read mixed reviews in the app
store about connectivity, but we found
connecting with the Bluetooth (on a Pixel
2) to be a snap. A small startup booklet
included with the device couldn’t be easier
to follow, including visual instructions for
connecting, degassing, testing, and clean-
ing. (More detailed support and FAQs are
available on the website.)
There are two holes on top of the
device—liquid in, liquid out. A small latex
hose connects the out hole with any handy
vessel to collect waste liquid. The syringe
for injecting the test liquid also is includ-
ed. Fair warning: Any carbonated beer (or
other liquid) you’re measuring must be
de-gassed first. This basically means stir-
ring or swirling for 10 to 15 minutes to kill
the bubbles before using the syringe to
take a sample. It’s also important to push
out any air in the syringe before injecting
into the device—any air in there will lead
to false readings. Finally, if there are parti-
cles in your sample, you can simply filter
through a coffee filter before testing.
Once you get a reading—in the density
measurement of your choice, with tem-
perature automatically measured, too—
simply save the reading to a new batch
record or to a batch record that you’ve
already started. There is a Batches button
to track the readings for each batch you’re
testing. You can also add notes to those
records for future reference.
The price is high for most homebrew-
ers, but for others, it will be worth it for
the ease of collecting more data points for
fine-tuning. (In particular, we’re looking
forward to keeping a closer eye on our
lager fermentations.) We found it easy to
connect and intuitive to use. — JS & JB
 New from
the Labs…
Omega Propper Seltzer
$35.99 for six one-ounce packets, propperbrew.com
Malt typically provides enough nutrients for
yeast cells to get their jobs done cleanly and ef-
fectively; dextrose, on the other hand, does not.
Thus, adding some nutrients is essential if you
are fermenting a sugar wash for hard seltzer.
Omega Yeast’s Propper Seltzer is meant
to simplify things, providing everything you
should need to ferment a sugar wash of 1.060
starting gravity in seven days in conjunction
with most yeast strains. (More packets might
be wise if you’re going for a high-gravity wash
meant for later dilution.) Omega says that time
can be shortened to four days if you’re using
kveik at higher temperatures, specifically rec-
ommending its clean-fermenting Lutra strain.
There are plenty of yeast nutrients avail-
able that will help you ferment hard seltzer,
but there is appeal in having one optimized
for that purpose. —J.S.
LallemandLalBrewFarmhouse
lallemandbrewing.com
Many brewers have a love-hate relation-
ship with diastatic yeast strains—loving the
character they can bring to farmhouse ales,
their high attenuation, and their dry finish,
but hating the risk of cross-contamination in
the brewery. While most brewing yeast will
stop at the normally unfermentable dextrins,
diastatic strains (such as LalBrew Belle
Saison) will keep right on chewing—great for
your farmhouse ale but not so great for that
stout in the fermentor next to it. For obvious
reasons, these strains can also be a terror for
commercial breweries that package beer.
The solution from Lallemand is a new hy-
brid yeast meant for saisons, bringing a char-
acter similar to Belle Saison and similar strains,
but lacking that diastatic (STA-1) gene. The
company says LalBrew Farmhouse ferments
vigorously, capable of reaching terminal grav-
ity in five days at 68°F (20°C)—though it can be
taken comfortably up to 86°F (30°C). Attenua-
tion is high despite being non-diastatic, with a
listed ABV tolerance up to 13 percent.
Like other saison strains, LalBrew Farm-
house produces those classic, peppery
PHOTOS: COURTESY OMEGA YEAST; COURTESY LALLEMAND; OPPOSITE: JAMIE BOGNER
phenolic notes. However, crediting technolo-
gy from the University of California-Davis, Lal-
lemand says that the yeast will not produce
sulfurous off-flavors, removing yet another
potential obstacle from your path toward
brewing a beautiful farmhouse ale. —J.S.
The
Rundown
The latest stories, events, podcasts, and more from the
Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine® team
Exclusive on BeerandBrewing.com
Brewing the Original
Oktoberfest Märzenbier
On the Wies’n in Munich in 1872, the famous
Schottenhamel tent needed more beer. Josef
Sedlmayer had beer to sell ... but it was a stron-
ger lager brewed in the Viennese style. Thanks
to beer historian Andreas Krennmair, we have
an educated guess on the recipe.
Upcoming Craft Beer & Brewing
Events and Appearances
Sign up for our email newsletter for timely updates.
Nov 8–11 If you’re planning a brewery or have just
opened one, this event will help you build
a successful brewing business. In Minne-
BREWERY
WORKSHOP
apolis, learn through panel Q&As, techni- NEW BREWERY ACCELERATOR
cal tours, hands-on demonstrations, and
working sessions—then stick around for
the festival. Breweryworkshop.com
Nov 13 The 5th annual Minnesota Craft Beer BREWERY WORKSHOP NEW BREWERY
ACCELERATOR
Festival returns to the Minneapolis
Convention Center.
minnesotacraftbeerfestival.com
The Latest from the
Craft Beer & Brewing Podcast
Ep. 182 Sam Pecoraro of Von Ebert Writes the Beer
Description before the Recipe
Ep.183 For Bobby Kros of Kros Strain, Innovation
and Tradition Go Hand in Hand
Ep.184 Annie Johnson Embraces the Homebrewer’s
Sense of Exploration
Ep.185 Ryan Wibby of Wibby Brewing Explores the Possibility in
Traditional Lagers
Ep.186 Matt Katase of Brew Gentlemen Has a Bridge to Sell You
Ep.187 Chuckanut’s Mari and Will Kemper Approach Lagers with
Scientific Precision and Creative Spark
Ep.188 Steve Luke of Cloudburst Brews with a Methodical Approach
to Hops
Ep.189 Amber Watts and Ron Extract of Garden Path Fermentation
Bottle the Flavors of the Skagit Valley
Ep.190 Brian Thiel and Greg Reichel of Ghostfish Make Great Beer
Without Barley
Ep.191 The Good Society’s Nick Berger & Phil Camarano Emerge
Victorious from the Whirlwind of 2020
Ep.192 Burke-Gilman Brewing is Your Friendly Neighborhood Alpha
King Winner
Visit beerandbrewing.com/podcasts to listen and subscribe.
BEERANDBREWING.COM | 13
| THE MASH |

Beer Books!
EDITORS’ PICKS

0.42" Spine Width

BREWING WITH
Cooking/Beer

VILLA
BREWING WITH
CANNABIS USING THC AND CBD IN BEER

Brewing with Cannabis discusses the convergence of marijuana and brewing. Explore
CANNABIS
adding cannabis and CBD to non-alcoholic beer and homebrew. Learn methods for USING THC AND
decarboxylating THCA into psychoactive THC. Learn about cannabinoids and terpenes,
how they function in the human body, their interactions with beer, and how to incorporate CBD IN BEER
them into extract-based and all-grain beer recipes. Especially useful to brewers seeking
information on the responsible and state-legal use of cannabis in brewing.
BREWING WITH CANNABIS

“With his incredible experience and knowledge, along with an obvious curiosity for
uncharted territory, Keith has moved into the world of cannabis, the close cousin to
beer’s essential ingredient: hops. Keith presents a science-based guide showing how
brewers can incorporate this amazing ingredient into their beers, along with a legal
pathway for commercial use through non-alcoholic beer production. For those who are
serious and willing to meticulously adhere to the rules, Keith lays out a well-researched
and responsible way to explore beer in a whole new way—with marijuana.”
—Matt Brynildson, Brewmaster, Firestone Walker Brewing Company

About the Author

Keith Villa, PhD, is brewmaster and co-founder of Colorado-based
CERIA Brewing Company, a trailblazer in the rapidly growing
market of non-alcoholic, cannabis-infused beers. After earning his
PhD in brewing, Keith began his 32-year career as founder and head
brewmaster at Blue Moon Brewing Company, an operating unit of
MillerCoors. Keith also is co-founder and head brewer of family-
owned Donavon Brewing Company based in Arvada, Colorado.

$19.95 US

BY KEITH VILLA, Ph.D.

BP21_BrewingWithCannabis_PAX.indd All Pages 6/18/21 1:20 PM

Beer & Veg Brewing with Cannabis: American Palate Beer

By Mark Dredge, Dog ‘n’ Bone Books Using THC and CBD in Beer Books (Various Titles)
By Keith Villa, Brewers Publications Various authors, American Palate
“Beer is the ultimate plant-based drink,”
Dredge writes. “Beer is made from plants, It’s hard to imagine the Brewers Associa- Maybe you’ve seen them on the impulse
and it goes really well with plants. It’s time tion producing a book like this 10 or even rack at the supermarket—paperback
to celebrate that.” five years ago. In fact, even today, it’s still books about niche local topics, such as
While the well-traveled Dredge has fairly brave—growing, selling, and using Ghosts of the South Carolina Upcountry.
eaten his share of flesh with the world’s marijuana remain serious federal crimes. On that same rack, you might also spot ti-
traditional beers, at home he’s gone vegan. However, the landscape is changing tles such as New Mexico Beer or Mountain
Yet he never stopped drinking beer, pairing quickly: In 16 states plus D.C., marijuana Brew: A Guide to Colorado Breweries.
with beer, or cooking with beer—and he’s possession is legal for adults; in total, 37 Most such books come from Arcadia,
found the shift to preparing and eating a states have legalized it for medical use. a publisher based in Charleston, South
different set of foods to be one of discovery. Those numbers grow monthly and will be Carolina. Within an imprint of that compa-
An early chunk of the book is devoted larger by the time you read these words. ny is a division called American Palate,
to pairing principles—matching intensities, So, this thoughtful book from Villa—the which focuses on food and drink—includ-
complementary flavors, and more. His ru- Blue Moon creator who retired from Co- ing beer.
bric of three Bs—bridge, balance, or boost— ors in 2018—is more a serious academic We perused two beer books: Boulder
is one worthy of wider adoption. He walks course than a beer-and-weed party. He County Beer (as in Boulder, Colorado),
us through beer styles, naming specific begins with the necessary warnings and by Michael J. Casey, and Hawai’i Beer,
dishes that work and others to avoid, as disclaimers, then the legal, political, and by Paul R. Kan—both published in 2021.
well as specific brands worth trying. Then historical context of marijuana. Chapters The writers have credentials; Casey
he turns it the other way around, walking are devoted to the biology, chemistry, has covered the Boulder beer scene for
us through specific dishes and beers that and agronomy—from planting to pruning Boulder Weekly for five years, while Kan
go great with them. and harvesting. These are level-headed, is Hawaiian and owns a small brewery in
The latter half of the book is devoted briskly written, and accessible, without Pennsylvania. Despite the books’ cookie-
to recipes—from beer crumpets to carrot- getting bogged down in unnecessary cutter appearance, they’re well written
and-pineapple upside-down IPA cake via scientific detail. and edited, and the substance is there.
imperial jackfruit dirty fries. (Meatless, The book includes a practical section on These are not really guidebooks; they
maybe, but this is not a book about health how to brew nonalcoholic beers—it remains are history books, telling the stories of
food.) illegal throughout the United States to sell local beer scenes. The Boulder book, for
There is Beer 101 stuff for the not-so- alcohol and marijuana in the same bever- example, has an account of the earliest
beery folks who might be coming to this age. Villa doesn’t forget homebrewers, how- days of American microbrewing. Charlie
book from the vegetarian side. But it’s ever, explaining the heat-based method to Papazian was in Boulder, planting the
short, and Dredge gives us lots of simple remove alcohol from beer at home, and— seeds. Boulder Brewing opened in 1979,
but handy reference charts and flavor ultimately—he shares a series of five-gallon the first brewery in Colorado since Prohi-
wheels—for example, identifying the recipes for brewing with marijuana (such as bition. Something I learned: The Old Chi-
flavors of certain brewing grains and Potted Porter and Light-Headed Lager). cago pizza chain and its World Beer Tour
hops, to think ahead about the foods that All told, the book is more about mari- started in Boulder, and it had a selection
might work well with them. Ultimately, juana than how to brew with it—a choice of 110 beers after it opened in 1976.
this is not a book about avoiding meat or that feels necessary and appropriate. Any of these books could be of interest
going vegan. It is, first and foremost, about Much of this information will be new to to local beer enthusiasts. But they’re likely
the pleasures of the table. It’s a book about brewers who face a minefield of legal and to have greater value to future research-
good beer with good food and getting into health concerns if they want to go about ers as historical documents in the longer
new flavor vistas. —Joe Stange this the right way. —Joe Stange term. —Joe Stange

14 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING

| THE MASH: SPECIAL INGREDIENT |
Elderflower
Floral, fruity, and unique, fresh elderflowers smell like the finest hops you’ve
never smelled … because those hops don’t exist yet. By Joe Stange
THEIR AROMA ISN’T QUITE like other
flowers—elderflowers don’t give off a
perfumy-soap-shop bouquet like roses, for
example. Their smell is definitely floral,
but it’s also sweet, berry-like, and vaguely
tropical; some even describe it as “creamy.”
The notes are difficult to pin down, but
the scent is so distinctive that once you
get used to it, elderflower just smells like
elderflower—and it’s damned pleasant.
As the name suggests, these tiny white
flowers bloom on elder bushes or trees—
aka Sambucus—also called elderberry
for its dark berries. Note: Most of the
plant is poisonous, but the flowers and
the berries (only when ripe, and not the
seeds) are safe. These plants grow across
most of North America, even if they are
less noticed and less popular than they
are across the Atlantic.
Elderflowers are more of a thing in
Europe than they are here, with interest
16 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
rising in late spring when the flowers are
ready for picking. You can find them in
teas, sodas, ciders, cocktails, syrups, and
more. (You can also find the berries made
into jams, wines, and various other things.)
One of the more famous elderflower
concoctions is France’s St-Germain liqueur,
“with up to 1,000 fresh, wild, handpicked
elderflower blossoms in every bottle.”
Brewing with Elderflower
Elderflower beers and other drinks are
less common in North America, but there
are a few. Monkish in Torrance, Califor-
nia, adds them to its Belgian-style singel
ale Crux. Decadent Ales in Mamaroneck,
New York, adds them—along with vanilla
and marshmallow—to a Japanese mochi–
inspired milkshake IPA called Elderflower
Mochi. There are a few ciders, too: Boston
Beer Company’s Angry Orchard makes
one named for its special ingredient.
MAKE IT
Elderflower
Saison
Inspired by Saison Cazeau, here is a
recipe for a light, dry, farmhouse-style
ale that gets a sweet-smelling lift from
fresh fleurs de sureau.
ALL-GRAIN
Batch size: 5 gallons (19 liters)
Brewhouse efficiency: 72%
OG: 1.042
FG: 1.007
IBUs: 34
ABV: 4.6%
MALT/GRAIN BILL
7 lb (3.2 kg) Belgian pilsner
1 lb (454 g) white wheat malt
HOPS & ADDITIONS SCHEDULE
1.2 oz (34 g) Styrian Goldings at
60 minutes [24 IBUs]
1 oz (28 g) Saphir at 30 minutes
[10 IBUs]
1.7 oz (48 g) fresh elderflowers at
flameout/whirlpool
YEAST
Lallemand LalBrew Belle Saison
DIRECTIONS
Mill the grains and mash in at 122°F
(50°C), rest 10 minutes; raise to 149°F
(65°C), rest 60 minutes; raise to 162°F
(72°C), rest 15 minutes; then raise
to 170°F (77°C), rest 5 minutes, and
mash out. Vorlauf until the runnings
are clear, then run off into the kettle.
Sparge and top up as necessary to get
about 6.8 gallons (26 liters) of wort—
or more, depending on your evapora-
tion rate. Boil for 90 minutes, adding
the hops and elderflowers according
to the schedule. Chill to about 70°F
(21°C), aerate the wort, and pitch the
yeast. Ferment at 72°F (22°C). When
fermentation is complete, crash,
package, and carbonate to about 3
volumes.
PHOTO: XPIXEL, SHUTTERSTOCK
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 | THE MASH |

Inevitably—because the Belgians and Germans especially seem to love elder-

flowers—you can find them in several specialty beers over there.
These include Berlin’s Schneeeule Otto, a mixed-fermentation Berliner weisse
that is “dry hopped” with elderflowers during a cool secondary fermentation.
Brewer Ulrike Genz says that the wild yeast on the flowers—picked near the
shores of Lake Tegel, just behind the brewery—also get involved with the fermen-
tation to affect the final flavor of the beer. Otto has a starting gravity of 1.032 and
an ABV of 3 percent, with an enticing floral aroma that mingles with citrus-funk
Brettanomyces—a combination that evolves with time in the cellar. The base beer
is similar (or perhaps identical) to Schneeeule’s core Berliner weisse, Marlene—
for a homebrew-scale recipe, see beerandbrewing.com.
Elderflowers have been known to find their ways into Belgian lambic, too. The
Proefbrouwerij near Ghent produces a SpontanElderflower lambic beer for the
Danish brand Mikkeller. More famously, Brasserie Cantillon in Brussels steeps
elderflowers in lambic and bottles it as Mamouche.
In case you doubt the Belgians’ love of elderflower: There’s even a brewery, Den
Toetëlèr, that is totally devoted to elderflowers, adding some to every single one of
its beers—from its light, soft Wit at 5.2 percent ABV to its nearly brown Amber
Tripel at 8.5 percent. (The brewery’s name means something like “The Tooter”
because the locals used to make whistles out of hollow elder branches.)

The Elderflower Saison

However, the first beer I ever tasted with elderflower remains one of my favorites:
Saison Cazeau, from the Brasserie Cazeau in Hainaut, between Tournai and the
French border. Its components are simple: water, pale malt, Sterling hops, fleur de
sureau, and yeast. In the glass, the beer is a deep golden color with lush foam, 5
percent ABV, lively on the palate, moderately bitter, and nicely dry. The signature
elderflowers waft out smelling sweetly of berries, linen, and spring—like the
finest hops you’ve never smelled because those hops don’t exist.
Founder-brewer Laurent Agache says that Saison Cazeau is a true saison because
it’s seasonal—he brews it only when fresh elderflowers are available. They also keep
it as local as possible, picking the flowers themselves in some woods less than a mile
away. “As production increases,” he says, “we supplement our needs by buying fresh
flowers from a producer located 50 kilometers [31 miles] from the brewery.”
9 Helles, Pilsners,
and Flavored
Lagers Reviewed!
At the very end of the boil, just before flameout, Agache adds 300 grams of
fresh flowers per hectoliter—that works out to roughly 1.7 ounces (48 grams) for
a five-gallon/19-liter batch. He is also adamant on this point: “Fresh flowers must
be used,” he says. “No dried flowers.”
Fresh flowers may be more difficult to source—it’s easy to find dried elderflow-
From the Jura Mountains ers online—but the result is a fresher and more fragrant aroma. (Note: If you

PHOTO: DARIN OMAN

to your table, must resort to dried flowers, use about half as much.)
Agache explains his inspiration for the beer: “My parents used to make an elder-

1000 Years of
flower cocktail,” he says. It was an aperitif that they would share at family gatherings.
“It was very good, so I thought, ‘Why not in a beer?’”

Artisanal
Cheesemaking
Comté Cheese Association
For recipes, tips and information, visit:
www.comte-usa.com | @Comte_USA
Facebook.com/ComteUSA

m
BEERANDBREWING.COM | 31 18 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
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HEAD BREWER

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| THE MASH |
Love Handles
Grace in
Growlers
Kailua, Hawaii
The Aloha State’s first self-pour bar
doubles as a community nonprofit.
What it is: Grace in Growlers follows
through on its mantra: “craft beer with a
purpose.” All proceeds go to community
initiatives, such as free laundry services
for the homeless. The self-pour, pay-by-
the-ounce beer wall features 15 taps—an
ever-rotating selection of mostly local beer
plus kombucha and cold-brew coffee.
Eclectic furnishings bring a Grandma’s-
house style with plenty of comfy seating
for any taste.
Why it’s great: Founded by couple Holly
and Tim Veling as a way to raise money
for their favorite causes, the bar has be-
come a neighborhood living room for this
corner of Oahu, northeast of Honolulu.
The recent addition of restaurant startup
Empty Elle Bagels adds hand-rolled,
honey-boiled brunch favorites for dine-in
or to-go. The family-friendly atmosphere
includes board games and a 36-ounce
per-person limit on beer that encourages
strategic thinking. (“So choose wisely,”
they say.) A selection of bottles and cans
is available in a restored antique chiller.
Within walking distance of breweries and
popular restaurants, it’s well worth the vis-
it on Windward Oahu. —Alexander Gates
DETAILS
Hours: 4–9 p.m., Wednesday–Friday; 2–9
p.m., Saturday; 12–6 p.m., Sunday
Address: 143 Hekili St., Kailua, Hawaii
Web: oneninetynine.org/graceingrowlers
20 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
Brewfontaine Piwna Stopa
Bellefontaine, Ohio
A small-town hub for local craft-beer
lovers and a destination for city folk
who want to get out of town for a
great pint.
What it is: Beer enthusiasts in this small
western Ohio town had to drive an hour to
Columbus to find a decent beer selection
until this charming bar opened in 2015. The
bar’s 16 taps offer a constantly changing mix
of top Ohio breweries such as Masthead
and Seventh Son, plus national offerings
from Bell’s or random surprises. A selection
of wines, ciders, and cocktails cater to the
non-beer-drinkers. The kitchen eschews
typical pub fare in favor of thoughtful deli
sandwiches, soups, and salads.
Why it’s great: Brewfontaine has become
the social center for this small town, offer-
ing an intimate but convivial look at rural
Midwestern social life. A given evening
finds twentysomethings, families with chil-
dren, and octogenarians enjoying a drink
or a meal together inside the bar’s historic
walls, which housed Johnson’s Delicatessen
in the 1960s (the diner’s original glazed tiles
still cover the walls). Despite the list of well-
known beers, the most popular tap is Wally
Post Red—an easy-drinking ale from local
Moeller Brew Barn and named for a former
major league baseball player born nearby.
—David Nilsen
DETAILS
Hours: 11 a.m.–10 p.m., Sunday–Thurs-
day; 11 a.m.–12 a.m., Friday–Saturday
Address: 211 S. Main St., Bellefontaine,
Ohio
Web: brewfontaine.com
Great places
to drink
great beer.
Poznań, Poland
This cozy, eccentric pub is one of
the finest for beer and hospitality in
Europe, ideal for getting to know the
work of independent Polish brewers.
What it is: Near Poznań’s Old Market
Square, this is a pub—no other word for
it—appointed by owner Szymon Ruciński
to be as warm, inviting, and entertaining
as possible. Near the bar, there is a blazing
fireplace, above which a tankard nestles
among the antlers. Wooden furnishings
share the scene with upholstery, framed
art, bric-a-brac from Europe’s brewing cen-
ters, and shelves full of books and board
games. It’s a place to stay awhile.
Why it’s great: It’s hard to outshine the
atmosphere, but the beer makes a run at it.
The 16 taps feature mainly Polish craft brew-
ers, with local takes on juicy IPAs next to
smoked imperial stouts, then perhaps Kriek
from Cantillon and always some proper
Czech pale lager. The 200-plus bottles allow
deeper research into Polish-brewed Baltic
porter, grodziskie, and more. Food includes
Czech-style hermelin cheese boards and
“hot dogs”—thick, hearty, smoked beef
sausages loaded with a range of fixings,
PHOTOS, FROM LEFT: ALEXANDER GATES; COURTESY BREWFONTAINE; JOE STANGE
from chutney and bacon to sriracha and
kimchi—plenty to soak up the porter and
fuel the conversation. —Joe Stange
DETAILS
Hours: 3 p.m.–midnight, Monday–Tues-
day; 3 p.m.–1 a.m., Wednesday–Thursday;
3 p.m–2:30 a.m., Friday; 1 p.m.–2:30 a.m.,
Saturday; 1 p.m.–midnight, Sunday
Address: Szewska 7, Poznań, Poland
Web: piwnastopa.pl
| STYLE SCHOOL: KAIMIŠKAS |
STYLE SCHOOL
Lithuanian
Kaimiškas:
Raw & Rustic
Whether “raw” and unboiled, bittered with hop tea, or made from a mash baked
into crusty loaves, Lithuanian farmhouse ales represent a unique tradition of
comforting beers that can’t be found anywhere else. By Jeff Alworth
DURING A HARD OCTOBER RAIN two
years ago, I finished a three-day stay in the
remarkable beer city of Vilnius, Lithuania,
by picking up a couple of bottles of locally
made pale lager at a bottle shop. It’s far from
the most interesting beer to be found in
that city, yet in some ways, it illustrates why
Lithuania is such an amazing beer country.
Vilniaus Light Unfiltered is a lager made
on modern equipment—ostensibly a
member of the largest family of beers in
the world. Nothing about it was typical,
though. The malts tasted prominently of
dry cracker, yet they were as soft as any I’ve
tasted. The beer had a dollop of light dia-
cetyl sweetness that tended toward honey,
adding mouthfeel and texture rather than
an overt buttery flavor. It was lightly fruity
and under-carbonated. In a blind tasting, I
would have mistaken it for an ale.
Had it been my first beer, I might have
chalked it up to a quirky producer who
probably needed a bit more process control.
Instead, I smiled with recognition—all
those elements are typical of the rustic
local ales, too. Lithuania’s native brewing
tradition, which stretches back centuries
to the farms of the countryside, never was
fully severed and in recent years has begun
Lithuanians make a range of farmhouse beers,
known by the umbrella term kaimiškas alus—literally,
rustic beer, or beer from the country or village.
22 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
to blossom again. While local farmhouse
ales—known as kaimiškas (pronounced
kai-mish-kus)—are uncommon, drinkers
can still find them on draft in Vilnius.
Their influence is strong enough to create
a distinctive local palate so pervasive that it
seems to influence craft brewers and even
large-scale lager breweries such as Vilniaus.
More than just influence, it also
represents one of the most unusual and
exotic traditions in the world.
A Unique Country with
Unique Traditions
A small Eastern European country of three
million people, Lithuania is the south-
ernmost of a troika (along with Estonia
and Latvia) lining the eastern shore of the
Baltic Sea. Unlike the Belarussians, Poles,
and Russians nearby, Lithuanians are not
Slavic; in fact, the Lithuanian language
is closely related only to Latvian. (Estonia
speaks a language more closely related
to Finnish.) Remarkably, Lithuanian has
existed as a distinct spoken language only
since around the 12th century—and the
oldest text is just 500 years old. The Lithua-
nians were among the last Europeans to be
Christianized, practicing their traditional,
polytheistic faith until conversion began
around 1400. Lithuanians hung onto their
indigenous culture more than a millenni-
um longer than most European countries.
More changes came in the 16th century,
when Lithuania joined Poland in a com-
monwealth that lasted for more than 200
years. The arrangement transformed the
nobility, who took to speaking Polish. After
the Polish union, bigger change came with
Russian control—first under the czars and
later the Soviets. Despite efforts to Russify
Lithuania, however, locals resisted, secretly
educating their children at home. Even
during the Soviet period, when political and
linguistic controls were far stricter, Lithua-
nians secretly held onto their old ways.
For this small, stubborn country, prac-
ticing a traditional craft became an act of
nationalism. To this day, many Lithuanians
are engaged in preserving their cultural his-
tory. One can see it in local crafts, revivalist
fairs, and a growing interest in pre-Christian
mythology. This fervor is perhaps most evi-
dent in traditional cuisine, not seen as fusty
or dated as in many European countries,
but essential. Naturally, this manifests in the
strange and wonderful beers still made in
small farmhouses around the country.
The Farmhouse Tradition
How far back does farmhouse brewing go in
PHOTOS: MATT GRAVES/WWW.MGRAVESPHOTO.COM
Lithuania? In a country where the oldest text
is 500 years old, it’s hard to say. But looking
at the different methods that brewers use
and the styles of beer they make, one could
imagine it extending back a good, long way.
The Norwegian writer Lars Marius Garshol,
author of Historical Brewing Techniques: The
Lost Art of Farmhouse Brewing, has spent the
past decade documenting their fascinating
methods and beers.
BEERANDBREWING.COM | 23
 | STYLE SCHOOL: KAIMIŠKAS |

Lithuanians make a range of farm-

MAKE IT house beers, known by the umbrella

Lithuanian-Style term kaimiškas alus—literally, rustic

beer, or beer from the country or

Farmhouse Ale
village. They may be pale (šviesusis) or
dark (tamsusis) or made with wheat
(kvietinus)—terms that also apply to
This rudimentary recipe is inspired by the kaimiškas alus (farmhouse ales) of Lithua- commercial beers. Each brewer uses
nia—including those of Aldona Udriené’s Jovaru Alus, of Julius Simonaitis, and others. different processes adapted to their
This “raw ale” gets its character from the malt; from the lack of boiling, which leaves own homebreweries and often based
proteins that provide body; from the hop tea, which you can adjust to taste; and from the on family tradition, and one may look
unusual Lithuanian farmhouse yeasts, a few of which are now commercially available. very different from the one a few miles
You can use those same yeasts to brew other styles of beers in more conventional ways; you away—yet taken together, they form
can also use conventional yeast strains to brew raw ale. However, bringing the yeast together a coherent group. Among kaimiškas
with this method should produce something more distinctive—closer to what you would find beers, there are three overlapping cate-
in northern Lithuania or in a few Vilnius pubs. —Joe Stange & Lars Marius Garshol gories: one that Garshol calls “raw ale,”
a stone-mashed beer, and a brew made
ALL-GRAIN from baking the mash.
Brewers everywhere, like farmers,
Batch size: 5 gallons (19 liters) BREWER’S NOTES are thrifty and pragmatic. Many of the
Brewhouse efficiency: 72% Malt: Look for characterful pilsner or pale Lithuanian country brewers make a beer
OG: 1.054 malt. Notably, Viking has a malt house in without boiling the wort—therefore,
FG: 1.004 Panevėžys, Lithuania; many kaimiškas brew- “raw” ale. In the oldest version of this
IBUs: variable ers get malt from there. Floor-malted Czech process, brewers heat stones and drop
ABV: 6.5% pilsner or something from your local craft them in mash tuns filled with ground
maltster also fits the profile and the spirit. malt and cool water. The stones raise
MALT/GRAIN BILL Hop Tea: There is a lot of room to exper- the temperature of the water so the malt
9 lb (4.1 kg) pilsner iment here. You can try boiling more aro- will convert, but they also caramelize the
1 lb (454 g) Munich matic hops for shorter amounts of time, for malt on contact, adding sweetness and
example, or make separate teas—one for body. Modern farmhouse brewers still
HOPS SCHEDULE bittering, one for aroma. We suspect some make stone beer occasionally—though
3 oz (85 g) whole-leaf Saaz for hop tea more fruit-forward New World hops could now they tend to make a typical infusion
(see below) also be really interesting in kaimiŠkas. mash first, adding the stones for the fla-
Packaging & Pouring: The traditional way is vor. When I tried two examples of these
YEAST to allow fermentation to finish naturally in beers, I found they also had hints of iron
Omega OYL-033 Jovaru, Yeast Bay the cask, which is then tapped for an impres- and smoke, flavors that were buffered
WLP4046 Simonaitis, or Yeast Bay sive show of messy, spewing foam. A corny by all the caramel sweetness. It makes
WLP4047 Pakruojis keg with picnic tap should work just fine for for an unusual combination of flavors
this. However, if you want to play it safer, you with its own kind of balance.
DIRECTIONS could carbonate as usual then pour aggres- As brewers acquired metal vessels to
In 2 quarts (2 liters) of water, boil half sively, to knock as much CO2 out of solution heat water, they could mash more eas-
the hops for 1 hour and the rest for 15 as possible (while also creating foam). ily without stones—though many still
minutes—you can do this while mashing. skipped boiling the wort. The mash
Mill the grains. (Optionally, add straw and Keptinis Variation is fairly typical, although sometimes
the spent hops from the tea to the bottom Based on the observations and trials of relatively long, and the wort proceeds
of your lauter tun to serve as a traditional Lars Marius Garshol, here is our best more or less straight from lauter to
filter.) Mash at about 154°F (68°C) for 1 guess on where to begin your own keptinis fermentation. Historically, it’s unclear
hour. Run off into a sanitized fermentor, experiments: Increase the malt bill to 14 lb when hops came into the picture,
chilling the wort to about 84°F (29°C), or (6.4 kg). Mash it thick at 65°F (18°C) for 1 but rather than spend the time and
allow it to cool to that temperature. Then hour. Preheat a pizza oven, or an oven with energy to build a big fire and boil all
pitch the yeast and add about ¼ of the pizza stone, to 375°F (190°C) with the con- the wort, Lithuanian kaimiškas brewers
hop tea. Loosely cover the open fermentor vection fan switched on. Divide the mash developed a clever workaround: While
with a sanitized piece of foil. After 1 day of into deep loaf pans and bake 3 hours—a they mash the grain, they boil hops in
active fermentation, rack into a sanitized dark brown (not black) crust and cook- a small amount of water, creating a hop
keg or cask—where fermentation will ie-like aromas should develop. Remove the tea or apyny arbata. Usually brewers
continue and build up CO2 pressure—and mash-loaves from the oven, break them add the tea before fermentation, but
add the rest of the hop tea, to taste. Drink up into chunks, and return them to your some—wanting a stronger flavor—wait
soon or vent the pressure, as the diastatic lauter tun. Add the hop tea (as above) and until after and blend to taste.
yeast will continue to ferment. Pour ag- lauter and sparge with
gressively, allow the foam to settle in your near-boiling water. Cool
mug, and enjoy. and ferment as above.

24 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING

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| STYLE SCHOOL: KAIMIŠKAS |
Perhaps the most exotic beer Lithuanians make is keptinis,
whose mash is baked in ovens. Each brewery making keptinis
seems to have its own variations on the method, but the pro-
cess usually begins with a conventional, but thick, mash for
an hour. Meanwhile, the brewer heats an oven to incredible
temperatures—possibly north of 700˚F (371˚C). Brewers pack
the mash into tins that look like bread pans and bake them
in the oven. Just before the loaves go in, the brewer removes
the fuel from the oven, so that it cools over the course of three
hours. While in the oven, the mash forms a centimeter-thick,
deep-brown protective crust. Beneath that crust, the firm
mash becomes, in Garshol’s words, “sweet, toasted, and cara-
melly-sugary, with earthy, honey-like notes.” Brewers break up
the loaves and create a second mash, adding hop tea as in raw
ale before fermenting.
Drinking Kaimiškas
These rustic methods produce beer with a continuum of similar
flavor characteristics. The beers aren’t always inflected by yeast
flavors—brewers sometimes opt for using baking yeast. Rather,
the focus is on the malts. The production methods, which often
accentuate caramelization, create full-bodied beers that tend to-
ward sweet notes such as toffee, chocolate, and red fruits. Brewers
typically use Lithuanian commercial malts, and they have a char-
acteristic dry-cracker or flatbread note that also appears in many
lighter beers. Dark beers don’t usually feature roasted notes. Near-
er to Munich dunkel, they’re made from softer, sweeter malts.
Yeast does play a role in the presence of diacetyl, which is com-
mon—in farmhouse ales and Lithuanian beers generally. Yet
the level is fairly low; it’s enough to increase the impression of
mouthfeel and add richness but usually lacks the more obvious
buttery flavors that diacetyl creates in large quantities. The yeasts
sometimes produce isoamyl acetate (banana esters) as well—one
raw ale I tried looked and tasted like a hefeweizen—and this
can combine with the restrained diacetyl to create a complex
sweetness that’s hard to describe. One other curious fact: While
the beers may taste full and sweet, those yeasts do their jobs.
Farmhouse ales may finish at less than 1.004 (1˚P), completely
fooling the drinker who perceives that sweetness. Yet the attenu-
ation helps to make these beers eminently drinkable.
Finally, Lithuanians eschew fizz. I was fascinated to find, at the
first pub I visited, a publican spending a huge amount of time
pouring a pint. He’d already filled a glass full of foam, releasing
the carbonation from the beer he was trying to pour. The beer
drizzled out in a tiny stream. I saw this again and again, and I
finally asked why. “It should not be foamy,” he told me, as if ex-
plaining an obvious truth to a child. Of course, the softer, sweeter
palate of Lithuanian beer wouldn’t be the same with rigorous,
stiff carbonation. They prefer a level nearer to cask ale, and that
preserves the beer’s character. In fact, some country brewers
finish fermenting their kaimiškas in casks, so that it gushes out
as foam and settles into something softer and smoother.
As Lithuania’s beer scene evolves, it appears to be folding the
old traditions into the new. Small breweries are starting to sprout
around the country, often making pretty typical American-style
craft beer. But once I ordered an IPA and received a dark mug
of malty beer, full of sweet, round flavors with just a hint of hop-
ping—quite Lithuanian, and not at all American-tasting. Later, I
drank a dark lager that tasted of dark chocolate and honey.
In the local pubs—whether I was drinking keptinis at Alaus
Namai, a raw ale at Šnekutis, or a craft beer at Alinė Leičiai—I
always felt that I was drinking Lithuanian beer. It’s the only
place on earth where that personality goes back to the way
farmers make their beer, and that in turn makes Lithuania a
wholly unique brewing country.
26 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
| MAKE YOUR BEST |

HOMEBREWING MAKE IT

Make Wolf &

Workman
Your Best…
Going beyond the simple question of “what” and instead
Strong Ale
exploring the “why” will help you understand how to ALL-GRAIN
design and brew better beers. By Josh Weikert
Batch size: 5 gallons (19 liters)

British-Style Strong Ale

Brewhouse efficiency: 72%
OG: 1.070
FG: 1.018
IBUs: 46
This is a field-tested, quality-checked recipe in its fourth generation, ABV: 6.9%
and I’ve certainly drunk more than my share of the beers that inspired
it (namely, Fuller’s 1845). Fresh, malty, with noticeable English-hop MALT/GRAIN BILL
character in the nose and on the palate, this is one that’s well suited to 10 lb (4.5 kg) Maris Otter
crisp, cool weather—it’s okay to brew now, so you’ll have it then. 1 lb (454 g) British amber
Style: As a class, British strong ales are easier to define than others we 8 oz (227 g) British crystal 45L
could mention, such as old ales. They’re strong (obviously), not so aged 8 oz (227 g) British crystal 90L
(or old, as it were), and they’re flavor-forward. By that I mean that they’re 8 oz (227 g) Special B
both malt-forward and hops-forward. Strength is a key attribute—Brit- 8 oz (227 g) aromatic
ish strong ale is warmer than the stronger bitters, but it stops short
of barleywine or old ale. It should be full-bodied, and that presents a HOPS SCHEDULE
choice when it comes to recipe construction. 2.75 oz (78 g) East Kent Goldings at 60
Ingredients: We start with Maris Otter—nothing like a good English minutes [41 IBUs]
base malt for this style. To that we add some amber malt, plus lighter 1 oz (28 g) East Kent Goldings at flameout/
layers of aromatic, crystal 45, crystal 90, and Special B to increase body whirlpool [5 IBUs]
and add the “sugary” flavors we need. Now, about that choice I men-
tioned: To molasses, or not to molasses? An earlier version of my recipe YEAST
included molasses, and it brought out nice burnt-sugar notes—but it Wyeast 1318 London Ale III
also made the beer seem too thin for my liking. I mention it as a consid-
eration. Having such a large percentage of crystal malts doesn’t concern DIRECTIONS
me much because I want that thick mouthfeel, and I’m not so worried Mill the grains and mash at 152°F (67°C) for
about oxidation in a beer that I enjoy drinking young. 60 minutes. Vorlauf until the runnings are
Hopping is important, but not complicated. Get clear, then run off into the kettle. Sparge and
enough East Kent Goldings into the boil for a firm, top up as necessary to get about 6 gallons (23
balancing bitterness, flavor, and another hit in the liters) of wort—or more, depending on your
whirlpool for that earthy, floral aroma. For yeast, I like evaporation rate. Boil for 60 minutes, adding
Wyeast 1318 London Ale III because I use it a lot and hops according to the schedule. At flameout,
I’m comfortable with it. However, I’ve also brewed conduct a whirlpool step: Stir 5 minutes to
this with the Ringwood strain (Wyeast 1187), and create a vortex, then add whirlpool hops and
the strawberry-pear esters it added were a lot of allow 20 minutes to settle. After the whirl-
fun—just something else to consider.  pool, chill to about 60°F (16°C), aerate well,
Process: You can mash a bit warmer here and pitch the yeast. After 5 days, allow the
to add body, but I find that all those specialty temperature to rise to 65°F (18°C) for 3 days,
malts do enough of that, so I do my usual then allow it to rise up to 70°F (21°C) until fer-
152°F (67°C). If you are adding molasses, do mentation is complete. Crash, package, and
it while running off into the kettle and stir carbonate to just less than 2 volumes of CO2.
to dissolve before turning on direct heat. Pay
attention to initial fermentation temperatures EXTRACT VERSION
here. To avoid unpleasant diacetyl, start low, Replace the base malt with 10 lb (4.5 kg) of
allowing the temperature to free-rise later to finish Munton’s Maris Otter liquid malt extract
PHOTOS: MATT GRAVES/MGRAVESPHOTO.COM

out. Finally, keep the carbonation relatively soft, but
not so soft that it feels thin.
Keep playing with this recipe to make the beer you want.
There’s a lot of room for interpretation—I’ve tried out treacle,
flaked barley, oats, and Belgian candi syrup in various it-
erations. Just be sure to give those hops a chance to
shine. You can cellar it until winter if you want—
but it’s also really fun as a fresh beer.
(LME). Steep the specialty grains at 160°F
(71°C) for 30 minutes, then remove the bag
and allow it to drain into the wort. Add the
LME and stir until completely dissolved.
Top up as necessary to get about 6 gallons
(23 liters) of wort, bring to a boil, and con-
tinue as above.

28 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING

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| MAKE YOUR BEST |

MAKE IT
Scottish-Style Light Ale LerwickLight
If you’re like me, you want beer on tap that’s flavorful but also low in alco-
hol. An ideal choice for that is one of the hidden gems of the beer world: the 60-Shilling
Scottish 60-shilling (often denoted as 60/-), aka Scottish light ale. It offers a
wonderful array of delicate flavors that aren’t out of place at any time of year.
Style: Broadly, Scottish ales feature caramel and toffee flavors balanced by
Ale
a minimum of hops and highly restrained esters (and the skirl of bagpipes ALL-GRAIN
if you put your ear up to the glass). In this case, we’re looking for low alco-
hol, high drinkability, and the best flavors that high-quality malts can offer. Batch size: 5 gallons (19 liters)
Scottish-style light ales overperform relative to their gravity and grist, thanks Brewhouse efficiency: 72%
to kettle caramelization and the judicious use of crystal malts. OG: 1.039
Ingredients: The key is using authentic British crystal malts—my per- FG: 1.015
sonal preference is Fawcett. Start with Maris Otter for a nice biscuit base, IBU: 17
tacking on a pound of Munich for depth. Then add some medium crystal, ABV: 3.5%
Victory, and lighter layers of pale chocolate and crystal 120. That blend
should deliver a broad spectrum of malt flavors without adding too much MALT/GRAIN BILL
weight. Resist the urge to overdo the crystal malts to add body—we’ll get 5 lb (2.3 kg) Maris Otter
that in the process. Hops are minimal—get about 16 IBUs from a 60-min- 1 lb (454 g) Munich
ute addition of whatever variety is taking up too much space in the freezer. 8 oz (227 g) British crystal 65L
As for yeast—blasphemy though it might seem—I like the Wyeast 1084 8 oz (227 g) Victory
Irish Ale strain. It lends a roundness and fullness to the malt flavors, 4 oz (113 g) British crystal 120L
which is precisely the counterpoint needed for such a light beer—we’re 4 oz (113 g) pale chocolate malt
aiming for about 3.5 percent ABV.
Process: Here’s where we bulk up this beer and intensify that malt char- HOPS SCHEDULE
acter. First, mash this beer high, at about 156°F (69°C). That will yield some 1 oz (28 g) Fuggles at 60 minutes
long-chain sugars that the yeast won’t consume, leaving a fullness of body [17 IBUs]
and an impression that the beer is bigger than its ABV. Second, run off
about a gallon of wort and boil it down by 50 percent. This kettle caramel- YEAST
ization will add some rich malt flavor while also increasing the perception Wyeast 1084 Irish Ale
of body. (Add a bit extra to your sparge-water calculation to account for the
evaporation.) Then run off the rest of the wort and boil as usual. DIRECTIONS
Ferment cool. I treat this beer more like a hybrid than a proper ale, fer- Mill the grains and mash at 156°F
menting at 60°F (16°C) for about two weeks. I’ve never found it necessary (69°C) for 60 minutes. Vorlauf until the
to ramp up the temperature—set it and forget it. The yeast doesn’t have runnings are clear, then run off about 1
that much to do—it’s a light beer, after all—and relatively low attenuation gallon (3.8 liters) into the kettle. Bring to
also helps to maintain some sweetness and body. Once activity ceases, a boil and reduce by about 50 percent in
crash and carbonate to about 1.5 volumes of CO2. That softer carbonation volume, then remove from the heat. Run
helps to show off that malt character. off the remaining wort, sparging and top-
This beer ages wonderfully despite its low strength. Feel free to lager it ping up as necessary to get about 6 gal-
a while—it should only improve with age, so you can enjoy it into the next lons (23 liters) of wort. Boil 60 minutes,
season and beyond. adding hops according to the schedule.
After the boil, chill to about 60°F (16°C),
aerate well, and pitch the yeast. Ferment
at about 60°F (16°C) for 2 weeks, then
crash, package, and carbonate to about
1.5 volumes of CO2.

EXTRACT VERSION
Replace the Maris Otter and Munich malts
with 5.5 lb (2.5 kg) of Munton’s Maris
Otter liquid malt extract (LME) and 12 oz
(340 g) of amber LME. Steep the specialty
grains at 160°F (71°C) for 30 minutes, then
remove the bag and allow it to drain into
the wort. Add the LME and stir until com-
pletely dissolved. Top up as necessary to
get about 6 gallons (23 liters) of wort, bring
to a boil, and continue as above.

30 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING

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| BREAKOUT BREWER: BURKE-GILMAN BREWING COMPANY |

The Burke-Gilman brewing

team of Julia Astrid Davis,
Kenneth Trease, and Phil
Pesheck.

The Process
BREAKOUT BREWER

Nerds
OCTOBER 16, 2020, was a hell of a
day for Seattle’s Burke-Gilman Brewing
Incremental improvements pay off big for Seattle’s
Burke-Gilman. Fresh off Alpha King and Great American Beer
Festival gold medals for its double IPAs, the brewery aims to
push its whole range to the next level. By Kate Bernot

Mostly, Trease and his team are fine with

Company. Within hours of each other,
two of the country’s top beer competitions
awarded gold medals to Burke-Gilman for
double IPAs—the Alpha King Challenge
gave its top honor to Fresh Hopotheosis
while the Great American Beer Festival
awarded gold to the hazy Hopsplainer.
Suddenly, Burke-Gilman became the most
celebrated brewery you’ve never heard of.
“Even conversations in the Seattle media
that. Their goal isn’t to be a hyped brewery or a
jam-packed destination; they’d much rather fill
their taproom and patio with stroller-pushing
families with dogs than one-and-done beer
tickers. “We want to be a cozy neighborhood
joint at which you just happen to be able to
get some of the best beer in Washington,”
Trease says. “I think we’re there now.”
At three years old, the brewery—named
for the Burke-Gilman Trail that runs
behind its 2,800-square-foot facility in the
and dialing in their hopping and carbon-
ation procedures, Burke-Gilman is putting
out some of its best beer yet.
While that national recognition came first
for their IPAs, the brewery embraces a wider
range than that. On a weeknight in early
June, the draft list featured seven IPAs, but
it also included three lagers and a handful
of stouts and Belgian ales. “Whatever you’re
into, we’ve probably got a decent example
of it, plus something you haven’t had before
that you should totally try while you’re here,”
PHOTOS: JAMIE BOGNER

about who has the best IPA frequently leave city’s Laurelhurst neighborhood—is more Trease says. “We’ll sell you a half-pint, so
us out,” says Kenneth Trease, cofounder and than hitting its stride. After coming to you don’t have to make a big commitment,
director of brewing operations. “But we’re terms with their finicky seven-barrel sys- and we’re trying really hard to make sure it’s
right here. We just won Alpha King.” tem, fine-tuning their yeast management, a safe environment for you.”

32 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING

A breakthrough came when he began MAKE IT
dry hopping in three additions, with
a day between each. He’d come in the Burke-Gilman
morning after the first addition, taste Černý Kov
the beer, dump the hop cone, tweak
the dry-hop ratio, and repeat. Tasting Dark Lager
between each step gave him insight This Burke-Gilman take on a Czech-style dark lager is in-
into particular hop combinations spired by the legendary beer served at U Fleků in Prague.

that harmonized—or not. ALL-GRAIN

Batch size: 5 gallons (19 liters)

Brewhouse efficiency: 72%
OG: 1.046
As word gets out, Burke-Gilman is unlikely to stay a well-kept FG: 1.011
secret. Yet it might become something even more exciting: a IBUs: 24
nationally renowned brewery that still feels like a local hangout. ABV: 4.5%

Strengths and Constraints MALT/GRAIN BILL

Burke-Gilman’s brewing team is a talented trifecta. Alongside
Trease—a former analytical chemist who says he mostly “stays out
of the way” of the other brewers—there’s head brewer Phil Pesheck
and brewer Julia Astrid Davis. Each has different areas of expertise—
hoppy beers, stouts, and porters for Pesheck; lagers, kettle sours,
and adjuncts for Davis. Their workflow aims to be cooperative and
egalitarian, with each team member able to take the lead on develop-
ing recipes and brewing the styles in which they feel most confident.
Pesheck says it allows each brewer to focus on their strengths.
“Where we tussle over beers is lagers that involve using hops in
new ways or stouts that have additional flavor components like
oak or chocolate,” Pesheck says. “But we’ll support each other
whoever ‘wins’ the brew. We’re on the same side.”
Regardless of their particular stylistic focuses, Davis and Pesheck
say they mostly begin recipe development the same way: They
identify a gap in the brewery’s current lineup, study that style
deeply, then make it their own.
“I do a lot of research on recipes and how they’re built historical-
ly, what the examples are out there,” Davis says. “I won’t copy reci-
pes, but I do take inspiration from them. It’s then working through
what works on our system and [with] our usual procedures.”
At times, Burke-Gilman’s equipment imposes constraints.
Heavy wheat malts don’t lauter well on it, for example, so they
might adjust the grain bill to preserve wheat character while
lowering that grain’s percentage in the grist. The brewery also
doesn’t have its own mill, so it’s at the mercy of suppliers to
provide that—and some can’t. (Trease says this is the brewery’s
next area of “problem-solving.”) The brewery also doesn’t have
as much cold-storage space for hops as a larger brewery might;
Pesheck has to plan ahead and occasionally adapt on the fly.
“Being where we are and trying to do the variety we’re doing
means chaos is going to be part of what you deal with,” Pesheck
says. “Do I like the chaos? It’s good mental exercise.”
Nerds, Unite
What the brewing team shares is a fixation on best practices.
Self-described “process nerds,” Davis and Pesheck say that refin-
ing standard operating procedures and adapting them to uncon-
ventional equipment or recipes are challenges that they enjoy.
At Burke-Gilman, that’s yielded tangible results. Over the past
year, Pesheck has been extensively testing hop combinations
and ratios as well as dry-hopping techniques. (“I’ve more or less
4.1 lb (1.9 kg) Weyermann Bohemian Pils
3.3 lb (1.5 kg) Weyermann Munich I
12 oz (340 g) Weyermann Caramunich II
3.5 oz (99 g) Briess Blackprinz
HOPS SCHEDULE
0.5 oz (14 g) Hallertauer Magnum at 60 minutes [20 IBUs]
2 oz (57 g) Saaz at whirlpool [4 IBUs]
YEAST
Imperial L28 Urkel or Wyeast 2124 Bohemian Lager
DIRECTIONS
Mill the grains and mash at 152°F (67°C) for 60 minutes,
then run off into the kettle. Lauter, sparge, and top up as
necessary to get about 6.5 gallons (25 liters) of wort. Boil for
90 minutes, adding hops according to the schedule. After the
boil, conduct a whirlpool step: Stir to create a vortex until the
temperature has dropped to about 185°F (85°C), then add the
whirlpool hops and allow 10 minutes to settle. Chill to about
55°F (13°C), aerate well, and add plenty of healthy yeast (i.e.,
two packs of fresh yeast or a starter prepared the day before).
Ferment at 55°F (13°C). Once fermentation slows or gravity
has dropped to about 1.015, allow the temperature to free rise
to about 60°F (16°C) for a few days of diacetyl rest. Crash to
48°F (9°C) for 1 week, then to 33°F (1°C) to lager for at least
3–4 weeks. Then package and carbonate.
BREWER’S NOTES
We adjust our water with a small amount of
calcium chloride to soften the profile.
You can try out other hops in the
whirlpool, such as Celeia, Styrian
Goldings, or Tettnanger. You can
also use any lager yeast, but we find
that the Czech strains produce a
more authentic flavor. Finally, you
can adjust the black malt as desired
to lighten or darken the color.

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 33

MAKE IT
Burke-Gilman
The Hopsplainer
Courtesy of the brewing team at Burke-Gilman in Seattle, here is
a homebrew-scale recipe for the beer that won gold at GABF in
the category Juicy or Hazy Imperial IPA.
ALL-GRAIN
Batch size: 5 gallons (19 liters)
Brewhouse efficiency: 72%
OG: 1.076
FG: 1.017
IBUs: 9-ish
ABV: 7.7%
MALT/GRAIN BILL
5.8 lb (2.6 kg) Thomas Fawcett Golden Promise
5.8 lb (2.6 kg) pilsner
1.1 lb (499 g) Bestmalz Caramel Pils
1.1 lb (499 g) Bestmalz Chit
9 oz (255 g) flaked oats
HOPS SCHEDULE
0.3 oz (9 g) Warrior at 45 minutes [9 IBUs]
3.5 oz (99 g) Citra Cryo and 1.5 oz (43 g) Idaho 7 Cryo at whirlpool
3 oz (85 g) Mosaic Cryo and 1.5 oz (43 g) each Citra Cryo and
Idaho 7 Cryo at first dry hop
2 oz (57 g) Mosaic Cryo and 1.5 oz (43 g) each Citra Cryo and
Idaho 7 Cryo at second dry hop
2 oz (57 g) Mosaic Cryo and 1.5 oz (43 g) Idaho 7 Cryo at third dry hop
YEAST
White Labs WLP066 London Fog
DIRECTIONS
Mill the grains and mash at 150°F (66°C) for 1 hour. Lauter,
sparge, and top off as necessary to get about 6.5 gallons (25
liters) of wort. Boil for 90 minutes, adding hops according to the
schedule. After the boil, conduct a whirlpool step: Stir to create
a vortex until the temperature has dropped to 180°F (82°C), then
add whirlpool hops. Quickly chill to about 65°F (18°C), aerate
well, and pitch plenty of healthy yeast (i.e., 2 packs of fresh yeast
or a starter prepared the day before). Ferment at 68°F (20°C) for
1 week or longer. Once fermentation is complete and gravity is
stable, add the first dry hops. The next day, remove the first dry
hops and add the second dry hops. The next day, remove the sec-
ond dry hops and add the third dry hops. The next day, remove
the third dry hops. Crash, carbonate, and package.
BREWER’S NOTES
Water: Go soft. We adjust with the equivalent of 9 g calcium chlo-
ride (CaCl) and 2 g gypsum in the mash, then 5 g CaCl and 1.5 g
gypsum in the kettle with 15 minutes left in the boil.
Hops: Optionally, combine all dry hops into a single addition,
leaving it in the beer no longer than 3 days.
34 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
| BREAKOUT BREWER: BURKE-GILMAN |
exhausted every combination and
ratio of Citra, Mosaic, Strata, Galaxy,
Mosaic, and Idaho 7,” he says.)
A breakthrough came when he
began dry hopping in three addi-
tions, with a day between each. He’d Listen Up!
come in the morning after the first Tune in to the
addition, taste the beer, dump the Craft Beer & Brewing
hop cone, tweak the dry-hop ratio, Magazine® podcast
episode 192 for more
and repeat. Tasting between each
on brewing from
step gave him insight into particu- Burke-Giman’s
lar hop combinations that harmo- brewing team.
nized—or not. Sabro, Mosaic, and beerandbrewing
Strata, for example, gave Pesheck the .com/podcasts
flavor sensation of drinking orange
juice after brushing his teeth—not what he wanted. He then
bombarded the beer with Strata and Mosaic to downplay the
Sabro, and he was able to create a tasty final product.
He also improved the brewery’s carbonation procedure. Ear-
ly last year, he’d transfer a beer to the brite tank and begin car-
bonating at 13 PSI; a day later, though, tank pressure would
read 8–10 PSI. He thought the tank had a leak, but it was just
the headspace in the brite tank getting colder and causing the
pressure to drop. Pesheck added a CO2 line to the CIP arm to
keep the headspace at 12–13 PSI while carbonating. That has
helped keep volatile aromatics in the beer.
“Those are the hop aromas that you can smell from el-
bow-length away from the beer,” he says. “We want those in
the beer, not vented to the atmosphere.”
But perhaps one of the greatest process improvements the
team has made was to narrow the yeast strains it regularly
uses from a whopping 13 to just five or six. Now, when the
brewery brings in a yeast strain, it tries to brew about four
recipes from that particular strain before discarding it. It’s
allowed the brewery to get bigger, healthier pitches than it
did with more than a dozen strains to manage. That stream-
lines the brewing schedule and keeps the yeast healthier, all
while maintaining variety on the tap list.
All of these incremental improvements nudge Burke-
Gilman closer to its goal of providing world-class beer in a
rainbow of styles. If that leads to more attention and cus-
tomers, that’s a nice bonus. But the taproom already is often
full, with drinkers packing the patio, too. Trease isn’t sure
what they’d do with an influx of more customers.
“My role now is not to make more beer, but to make more
tables.”
 | BREAKOUT BREWER: GODSPEED BREWERY |
BREAKOUT BREWER
The
Autobiographer
Toronto’s Godspeed Brewery is a reflection of founder-brewer Luc Lafontaine’s
life and obsessions, from reverently brewed traditional lagers to IPAs and goses
that showcase unusual Japanese ingredients. By Stephen Beaumont
THE ROAD LUC LAFONTAINE took to
running his own brewery was a bit differ-
ent, and considerably longer, than that tak-
en by most entrepreneurial homebrewers.
Rather than the tried-and-true “people
liked my beer, so I turned pro” trajectory,
Lafontaine brewed for himself for most
of a decade, took two years off to travel
the world, returned to advance gradually
through the ranks at a Montreal brewpub,
went to live in Japan for a couple of years,
returned to Canada almost penniless, and
finally opened the brewery that virtually
nobody expected of him.
Further, it wasn’t just any old Montreal
brewpub he worked at—it was Dieu du
PHOTOS: COURTESY GODSPEED BREWERY
Ciel, which after Sapporo-owned Uni-
broue is the most famous of Quebec’s
240-odd breweries. And neither was he
simply killing time in Japan; instead, he
was helping to set up the brewing offshoot
of pioneering Tokyo beer bar Ushitora.
As for the brewery no one expected—
that’s Godspeed.
Never a brewery to chase trends and
accolades—its lineup is almost entirely
traditional styles, plus a few twists with
Japanese ingredients—respect and pop-
ularity have found Godspeed anyway. Al-
though Lafontaine is generally dismissive
of beer competitions, declining to enter
any, almost any Canadian beer critic and
many American ones place his brewery
high among the country’s best.
More locally, for Toronto’s NOW Maga-
zine, a panel of eight expert judges (disclo-
sure: I was one of them) last year named
Godspeed the best brewery in Ontario. We
also named his fervently brewed Světlý
Ležák Nefiltrovaný 12° the best lager in To-
ronto. (Likewise, Prague-based American
beer writer Evan Rail declared it “one of the
best—or more like ‘most accurate’—I’ve
tasted outside of the Czech Republic.”)
Lauren Richard, an Advanced Cicerone
and experienced Toronto beer judge, writes
this about Lafontaine in NOW: “His passion
in melding historical practices with fresh
new concepts and ingredients is unique
and stands firmly on its own. He manages
to not conform to the restriction of style
guidelines, while honoring and protecting
the legacy of traditional methods—all while
adding his own special Godspeed flair.
“His care and attention to detail [are]
awe-inspiring.”
The Winding, Uphill Road to
Godspeed
Rewind to 1998: A post-college Lafontaine
was living and homebrewing in Montreal
when he met Jean-François Gravel and
Stéphane Ostiguy, founders of Dieu du
Ciel, just a couple of weeks before they
opened their landmark brewpub in the
Plateau region of the city. The trio got
along well, and just before Lafontaine left
to globetrot a little more than a year later,
he told Gravel that he would be working
for him when he returned—and that’s
exactly what he did.
By 2007, with Dieu du Ciel expanding to
a production facility north of the city, La-
fontaine got a promotion to head brewer
of the brewpub, and his reputation began
to grow. However, it wasn’t a reputation
BEERANDBREWING.COM | 35
| BREAKOUT BREWER: GODSPEED BREWERY |

that necessarily coincided with what he

was brewing there.
“What people didn’t know was that all the
crazy beers were J.F. [Gravel], and all the
beers that balanced the menu—the low-
ABV stuff—were me,” Lafontaine says. “I’m
all about sessionable beers, and I think a lot
of people confused [what I brewed] with the
punchy, high-strength styles that JF likes.”
That misconception among local enthu-
siasts would return to color the startup
of Godspeed years later. But before that
could occur, there was the life-changing
meeting of Lafontaine and his now-wife
and business partner, Eri Kuramasu, in
2008. Then came the decision in 2011 to
move to Japan and open a brewery there.
The latter choice was—Lafontaine says, in
hindsight—the start of the most difficult
and challenging years of his life.
“I was in love with a beautiful lady and
a country,” he says, “But I was not a busi-
nessman.”
Lafontaine and Kuramasu arrived in Ja-
pan in 2012 with no business contracts, no
working visa, a minority position in the new
company, and limited savings. The visa—
which he was promised would be sorted formed his partners in February 2014 that upon which Dieu du Ciel had built its
within two months—wound up taking well he would be returning to Canada at the end well-deserved reputation.
over a year to arrange. Meanwhile, remain- of the year. He agreed to keep brewing and Instead, Godspeed opened with a flag-
ing in the country on a visitor visa rapidly train his replacement in the interim. ship Dortmunder lager.
depleted the couple’s financial cushion. Seeing greater opportunity in what was “In 1992, I was in Munich drinking wei-
When they found what was virtually a then brewery-poor Toronto—as compared to zens and helles, [and since then] Germany
turnkey brewery to buy, Lafontaine and his relatively brewery-rich Montreal—the couple has been my favorite brewing country,” he
partners, Shinsuke Yoshida and Akio Terasa- settled in the Ontario capital in early 2015, says. “So, in my mind, that’s what I was
ki, had to scramble to find investors. Lafon- gathering investors, including Lafontaine’s always going to do. I knew that it wasn’t
taine says they eventually secured a meager banker brother, and opening Godspeed maybe the best business decision, but I
$300,000—not anywhere near enough to get Brewery in the city’s East End in July 2017. promised myself that I was going to build
the operation up and running properly. This time, Lafontaine was well-capitalized. something that reflects who I am.”
“We struggled, bit by bit, even missing Since that opening, Godspeed has
some parts we needed to brew,” he says, Beer as Autobiography principally defined itself with that
“which is why my advice for people who In the seven months it took to build the Dortmunder; a pair of beers that feature
want to open breweries today is to gather new brewery and restaurant—one year Japanese ingredients—Yuzu Citrus Saison
the full amount you need before even start- from the signing of the lease to the grand and Ochame Green Tea IPA, the latter fea-
ing because otherwise it’s a nightmare.” opening—word spread in Toronto beer turing tea from Lafontaine’s own tea field
It was during this time that Lafontaine circles of the new enterprise led by the in Japan—and, more recently, a seemingly
decided that running the Japanese brewery ex-Dieu du Ciel brewer. Expectations were endless series of Czech-inspired lagers.
was not how he wanted to spend his 40s. high, with fans of the Quebecois brew- Lafontaine says that his beer portfolio is
So, after consulting with Kuramasu and ery anticipating clever imperial stouts, “an autobiography,” with a story behind each
discussing his situation with brewing- well-constructed IPAs, strong Belgian- beer. In the case of the Dortmunder, the
industry friends and colleagues, he in- inspired ales, and other beers of the sort story begins with his father returning from
a mid-construction beer run with a bag of
cans of DAB Original. After that, Lafontaine
recalls, it became the beer of the buildout.
When he finally had to decide which beer to
brew first, the choice seemed obvious.
Expectations were high, with fans of the Quebecois On the question of using tea and yuzu
in his beer, Lafontaine’s advice could
brewery anticipating clever imperial stouts, scarcely be simpler.
well-constructed IPAs, strong Belgian-inspired ales, “Every time I use a different ingredient
in a beer, I think about how I would use it
and other beers of the sort upon which Dieu du Ciel in cooking,” he says. “So how would you
had built its well-deserved reputation. Instead, make tea? Would you boil it for 15 minutes?
No. You’d find the right temperature for
Godspeed opened with a flagship Dortmunder lager. making your tea, and you’d infuse it at that

36 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING

temperature. People say, ‘Do you put it in at
the end of the boil?’ No, it’s too hot, you’ll get
astringency. You simply use it at the same
temperature as you would for your tea.”
The Czech Connection
In the fall of 2018, Lafontaine accepted an
invitation to join a trade mission to the
Czech Republic, a trip that would further
change his brewing life.
“Even before the trip began, I knew that
I would come back a changed brewer,” he
says. A passion for the Czech approach to
brewing had been “sitting inside” of him
since his visit to Pilsner Urquell in 2008,
he says. But it was not until he visited hop
growers, maltsters, and—pivotally—Budě-
jovický Budvar, that he was gripped by the
need to pivot toward Czech-style lagers.
“The Czechs are the old souls of brew-
ing,” Lafontaine says. “And I couldn’t just
start making their beers pretending that
I knew what I was doing. Going back 10
years later, that’s what opened me up to it.”
Lafontaine’s greatest revelations came
from his interactions with Josef Tolar, the
retired Budvar brewmaster, who helped him
fully understand everything from Budvar’s
three months of lagering—Tolar took him
through the cellar, sampling beers at differ-
ent stages of maturity—to the importance
of decoction mashing. “I felt a bit like a
groupie,” Lafontaine recalls with a laugh.
On the issue of decoction, a source of
contention throughout the brewing world,
Lafontaine is adamant. Noting that the
relatively less-modified malt he is “lucky
enough” to get from Raven Trading in the
Czech Republic necessitates his use of de-
coction, he says that while decoction might
not make much of a difference in the conver-
sion of modified malts, it definitely makes a
difference in the taste and mouthfeel.
Favoring double or even triple decoction,
Lafontaine counsels that anyone with the
ability to use it for their lagers should do
so. “You don’t need to use decoction if your
malt is highly modified,” he says, “But I
think it’s going to taste different if you do.”
He adds: “You can’t make a Czech-style
lager without decoction.”
Arguably, brewing traditional lagers and
other classic styles doesn’t leave the same
room for creativity and personal expres-
sion as, say, a spiced and oak-aged stout or
a uniquely fruited sour.
So, what would inspire a brewer to go
down such a road?
“With lagers, there’s nowhere to hide,”
Lafontaine says. “It’s where I can show my
talent in an unpretentious way. And then
there’s the love I give to my beers, being in
the brewery every day, checking, touching,
tasting. I think that gives them a unique
taste.”
MAKE IT
Godspeed Ochame
Green Tea IPA
For this unusual IPA, Godspeed uses green tea from Brewmaster Luc
Lafontaine’s own tea field in Japan. Ochame, incidentally, means mischie-
vous. Lafontaine says the beer “succinctly encapsulates our certain core
tenets of our humble brewery, namely, balance and simplicity. Enjoy!”
ALL-GRAIN
Batch size: 5 gallons (19 liters)
Brewhouse efficiency: 72%
OG: 1.057
FG: 1.011
IBUs: 45
ABV: 6%
MALT/GRAIN BILL
6.6 lb (3 kg) two-row pale
2.1 lb (953 g) pilsner
1.4 lb (635 g) flaked oats
12 oz (340 g) Munich I
HOPS & ADDITIONS SCHEDULE
1.4 ml hop extract (55% AA) at 80 minutes [35 IBUs]
0.4 oz (11 g) Perle at 15 minutes [4.5 IBUs]
1 tsp (5 ml) yeast nutrient at 15 minutes
1.4 oz (40 g) Perle at 5 minutes [6 IBUs]
1.1 oz (31 g) Japanese green tea at flameout/whirlpool (see below)
0.5 oz (14 g) Cascade at dry hop
0.5 oz (14 g) Perle at dry hop
0.5 oz (14 g) Japanese green tea at dry hop
YEAST
White Labs WLP001 California Ale
DIRECTIONS
Mill the grains and mash at 147°F (64°C) for 45 minutes, aiming for a pH
of 5.2–5.3. Raise the temperature to 171°F (77°C) and run off into the kettle.
Sparge and top up as necessary to get about 6.5 gallons (25 liters) of wort—
or more, depending on your evaporation rate. Use lactic acid, if necessary,
to adjust the pH to 5.2 pre-boil. Boil for 90 minutes, adding hop extract,
hops, and yeast nutrient according to the schedule. After the boil, add the
tea, with a few options to avoid extracting unpleasant tannins:
▪ Conduct a whirlpool step, cooling to about 160°F (71°C) if possible before
adding the tea and steeping 5 minutes.
▪ Run wort through the tea in a hopback while chilling.
▪ Infuse the tea separately in some wort at about 160°F (71°C) for just 5
minutes and add to the fermentor.
Chill to 68°F (20°C), aerate well, and pitch the yeast (pitch rate: 1 million
cells/ml/°P). Ferment at 68°F (20°C), allowing the temperature to rise to 72°F
(22°C) after 2 days. When fermentation is complete, drop the yeast or rack
before adding the tea and dry hops. Cool to 50°F (10°C) and dry hop 3 days,
then crash to 33°F (0.5°C) and condition for 10–14 days. Optionally, use a
1-micron strainer to filter when packaging. Carbonate to 2.4–2.5 volumes.
BEERANDBREWING.COM | 37
| PICK SIX |
PICK SIX
Keeping It
Together
with Beers
that Evoke
Memories
Averie Swanson, founder and brewer at Chicago’s Keeping Together,
selects an experience-driven six-pack that transports her back to cherished
moments in time. As told to Joe Stange
FOR AVERIE SWANSON, beer is experi-
ential—it’s about the senses and enjoying
the now, of course, but it’s also about
digging into memories and connecting
with ourselves by remembering earlier
(ideally pleasant) experiences. She’s built
plenty of those memories over years, both
as former head brewer for Austin’s Jester
King and while earning her certification
as a Master Cicerone. Today, she channels
her experience and knowhow through her
Keeping Together brand.
First of all, Swanson brews for balance
and drinkability. “So many brewers say
that’s what they like to drink,” she says,
“but that’s not necessarily what they like
to make. For me, all I make are saisons,
and I like to think that all of the beers I
make are fairly balanced and drinkable.”
She says she doesn’t need someone to
taste every single ingredient in her beers.
“I want to be able to use ingredients in a
way that creates a whole that’s more than
the sum of its parts and something that
is evocative and elicits sense memories in
people. I want to make it just sub-threshold
enough that you have to search through
your memory for something familiar to tie
yourself to this beer.”
38 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
For her chosen six-pack, she went with
beers that consistently deliver that experi-
ence for her.
Birrificio Italiano Tipopils
(Lurago Marinone, Como, Italy)
“I believe Tipopils is just one of the most
elegant beers I’ve ever encountered. It’s
crispy and floral and just super-delicate.
The first time I ever had it was at a bar in
Philly during the Craft Brewers Confer-
ence a few years ago. And I just remem-
ber taking the first sip of it—I was at a
table with a bunch of people—I took the
first half of it, and the room went quiet
around me and this beer. It was just a
really beautiful experience.
“It’s an Italian pilsner. So there are
elements of it as a pilsner that are really
familiar, like crispy-crunchy pilsner malt
character, high carbonation. But it has this
very different element to it as well. I think
it’s just more floral than a lot of the other
pilsners that I’ve had. The hop character
is just really succinct, and just really …
floral and pretty. It’s probably the prettiest
beer I’ve ever had.
“A few years later, I ended up meeting
the folks [at Birrificio Italiano] and have
traveled pretty extensively with them at
this point around Europe and parts of the
United States. And they’re just a group of
some of the most passionate and loving
people. And I think all of that shows
through their beer. So that beer is very
much at the top of my list.
“I do have that very specific memory
of this beer [in Philadelphia], and it’s
always stuck with me. It’s just bright and
balanced—like, texturally, it is a really
phenomenal beer.”
Allagash White
(Portland, Maine)
“A lot of what drives my go-to beverages
is texture. I really like body and [whether]
something is silky or chewy or gritty or
whatever. The texture is a huge thing for
me when I go to select a beverage. So I feel
like Allagash White is a chewy beer—it’s
just got a ton of texture to it, being that it’s
a ton of wheat. And the spice character in it
is really lovely and delicate and really con-
tributes to the overall balance and drink-
ability. I would say that Allagash White is
probably one of the most drinkable beers
that I’ve ever encountered. And it is also
one of the most consistently high-quality
beers that I’ve ever encountered.
“You know, living in Texas for a very
long time, we didn’t have access to this
beer. Allagash wasn’t distributed in Texas
when I was drinking craft beer there. So
any time I would travel outside of Texas
when I was still living there, and I saw
Allagash White on a beer menu, I would
order it every single time. And no matter
where I was in the country, ordering that
beer, it was always extremely high quality,
which was something that I was always
very impressed with. At this point, living
in Chicago—I think Chicago is one of Al-
lagash’s bigger markets, and it’s available
everywhere. And I still order it just about
any time I see it on the menu.
“It’s also an extremely versatile,
food-friendly beer, and I really appreciate
beers that have that kind of versatility—that
you can pair with just about any type of
food, and it goes well or elevates the dish.
Allagash White always can provide that.”
ILLUSTRATION: JAMIE BOGNER
Sierra Nevada Celebration
(Chico, California)
“Celebration is exemplary of my craft-beer
memory, when I first started drinking
craft beer—let’s see, this would have been

2000 and … Ah, God, it would have been
a long time ago. But I was definitely a
hophead. So, I sought out all of these su-
per-hoppy, super-bitter beers. And Sierra
Nevada Celebration just takes me back to
those young days of drinking craft beer.
“It’s super-dank and resinous from
the American hops. It’s got a gripping
bitterness to it, but it’s still perfectly in
balance with the malt sweetness. This is
another beer that has a really beautiful
body to it. I appreciate it also because it’s
a seasonal beer—it’s only available for a
month or two. It marks that changing in
the seasons or passing of time.
“Last year during the pandemic, when
we were all drinking beers at home—
which was not something that I did a ton
of before the pandemic—but being at
home all the time, going to the grocery
store and picking up a six-pack and taking
it home … That was one of the first times
in a very long time that I can remem-
ber going to the grocery store, buying a
six-pack, bringing it home, drinking the
whole thing—and then going back to the
grocery store the next week and buying
that same six-pack. Like, this beer for me,
it’s perfect. [It’s also] always high-quality.”
Brasserie de la Senne
Taras Boulba
(Brussels, Belgium)
“Taras Boulba is probably my ultimate beer.
It is bitter and bracing and yeast-expressive.
“And I know that I keep mentioning
memories, but beer drinking for me is a
very experiential thing. I’ve told people
plenty of times that I think I would have
lost a lot of my sense-memories from
when I was a younger person if I hadn’t
gotten into drinking beer and being really
aware of my flavor experience the way that
I need to be, to do what I do. There are so
many times when I’ll take a sip of a beer,
and I’ll smell something, and it reminds
me of something—and I can’t really quite
put my finger on it. But as I continue
drinking the beer, the memories come
flooding back into my brain.
“And for me, Taras Boulba has this really
strong sense-memory. It very much tastes
like my first trip to Belgium and memories
that I have of being in Europe, and it also
represents the entire evolution of beer
as I know it. It’s rooted in tradition and
agricultural ingredients and microbiolog-
ical collaboration. Yvan [de Baets] is very
much a yeast whisperer. But it is also a beer
that’s shaped by technology and utility and
human connection. And this beer is just
extremely special to me. I think if I had
to choose one to take on the desert island
with me, it would be that one.”
Brasserie Au Baron
Noblesse Oblige
(Gussignies, France)
“Noblesse Oblige is a beer that was done
in collaboration with Jester King while I
was there, though I didn’t have any hand
in making it. It was very much a collabo-
ration between the head brewer and the
barrel-program manager at the time with
the folks at Au Baron—and they make a
small number of beers, and distinct beers.
“But this particular one—they call all of
them bières de garde, even though they kind
of straddle the line between bières de garde
and saison. I would make the argument
that they’re a little bit more in the saison
camp, as we know them here in the States.
“But that beer is made with honey and
American hops [Sabro, Brewer’s Gold, Cas-
cade, Simcoe]. … But it is such a beautiful,
drinkable, floral beer. It’s on the lower end of
the ABV spectrum [4.7 percent]. It’s another
really beautiful, very pretty beer. It very much
transports you back to the place where it’s
made, in your mind. I haven’t actually been
to their brewery, but drinking that beer
makes me feel like I am sitting on a porch or
patio overlooking a lake in France. It is just a
very delicate and lovely beer.”
Live Oak Grodziskie
(Austin, Texas)
“When I was living in Austin, this was the
beer that, any time I would go to Live Oak, or
any time I would be out with folks, I would
order this beer. It is sessionable—it’s only like
3 percent ABV, or somewhere in that range.
“But this beer is just one of the most beau-
tifully textured beers. For being as full and
chewy as it is, it is just so drinkable and goes
down so easy. The smoke complexity on it—
it’s oak-smoked wheat—and there’s so much
going on in the flavor profile. I would tell
people when I still lived in Texas that it was
very much a breakfast beer—like something
that you would [drink] with pancakes.
“But it’s just chewy, and kind of meaty,
and bacon-y, and the smoke doesn’t linger
for too long. Once your palate acclimates to
it, the smoke is just kind of a background
note. I find that beer to be incredibly drink-
able and enjoyable.”
BEERANDBREWING.COM | 39
| COOKING WITH BEER |
Some Like It
COOKING WITH BEER
Hot & Tangy
Three popular favorites—fish sandwiches, queso dip, and shrimp
and grits—get a spicy update, plus flavor boosts from different
types of IPA. Recipes and photos by Christopher Cina
IT USED TO BE notoriously difficult to
cook with American IPA—it was bitter and
challenging—but the continuing evolution of
this growing family of styles has created new
opportunities for compatibility in the kitchen.
Meanwhile, the arrival of new, fruit-forward
hop varieties—and brewing techniques that
amplify their flavors in beer—have provided
the equivalent of all-new ingredients for the
beer-wielding home cook.
Here, three dishes that run from tangy to
rich-and-spicy provide ideal foils for those
bright qualities that we love in a great IPA.
Chicken-Fried
Whitefish Sandwich
with Sumac Mayo
Culinary sumac is a wild bush with red-
dish-purple berries found throughout the
Mediterranean and Middle East. The ripe ber-
ries are picked, dried, and ground into a coarse
powder. Sumac is tart, tangy, and fruity and a
main ingredient in the Middle Eastern spice
blend Za’atar. Here, it spices up a mayonnaise
for a tasty fish sandwich.
Serves: 2
2 cup (473 ml) all-purpose flour
1 cup (237 ml) cornstarch
2 tsp paprika
1 tsp black pepper
1 Tbs iodized salt
1 egg
½ cup (118 ml) milk
2 fl oz (59 ml) hazy-juicy pale ale or IPA
2 whitefish pieces (cod, halibut, seabass),
about 4 oz (113 g) each
½ cup (118 ml) mayonnaise
1 tsp ground sumac spice
1 Tbs fresh lemon juice
¼ tsp kosher salt
Oil for frying
40 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
preparation. Whether a hazy pale ale or
juicy IPA, its aroma and flavor should
deliver clear, expressive tropical and citrus
hop notes. Those notes find fast friends in
2 kaiser rolls, 4–5" (10–13 cm) diameter, the lemon and tart sumac, brightening the
split horizontally fish and complementing the spices—deep-
4–5 leaves Boston (Bibb) lettuce ening the flavors, not overwhelming them.
4 slices fresh tomato Beer Suggestions: Bell’s Official (Com-
2 slices red onion stock, Michigan), Sierra Nevada Hazy
Little Thing (Chico, California), Roaring
In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour, Table Tuba Solo (Lake Zurich, Illinois), or
cornstarch, paprika, black pepper, and your favorite local hazy IPA.
iodized salt, and mix well. In a separate
bowl, combine the egg, milk, and beer,
and whisk until smooth. Place the fish
pieces in the egg mixture and set aside. In
a small mixing bowl, combine the may-
onnaise, sumac spice, lemon juice, and
kosher salt. Mix well and set aside.
Heat the frying oil to 350° (177°C) in a fryer
or in a skillet on the stovetop. Make sure to
have enough oil to cover the fish. Once the
oil has reached temperature, remove the
fish from the egg mixture, shaking off the
excess. Dredge the fish pieces in the flour
mixture, making sure to coat well and shake
off any excess flour. Fry the fish until golden
brown, about 4–5 minutes. The internal
temperature should read 165°F (74°C).
When the fish has finished cooking, remove
the pieces from the oil to a plate or paper
towel and allow the excess oil to drain.
Toast the kaiser rolls and build the Queso Dip
sandwiches from the bottom up: Place the With three cheeses, fresh tomatoes and jala-
lettuce on the bottom of the roll, top that peños, chorizo, and beer, this is definitely not
with the tomato, then the onion. Place the your standard Ro-Tel-and-Velveeta queso dip.
fish on top of the onion. Place 1–2 Tbs of
the sumac mayo on the fish and finish
with the top of the roll. Serves: 6–8
Serve with a salty side such as dill-pickle
potato chips. 2 Tbs vegetable oil
Beer Tasting Notes: IPA traditionalists ¼ cup (59 ml) fresh jalapeño, seeded and
may lament that the hazy-juicy trend has diced small
left bitterness behind, but amateur beer- 1 cup (237 ml) white onion, small dice
chefs can rejoice: That bitterness always 1 Tbs garlic, minced
tended to concentrate in the cooking and 1 cup (237 ml) fresh tomato, seeded and
present a problem on the palate. In this diced small
case, a soft and light but bright profile is 2 fl oz (59 ml) American/West Coast–style
just the thing for a delicate yet tangy fish IPA
BEERANDBREWING.COM | 41
| COOKING WITH BEER |

2 Tbs cumin
2 cup (473 ml) milk
1 lb (454 g) cream cheese
½ lb (227 g) sharp cheddar, shredded
½ lb (227 g) Monterey Jack, shredded
½ lb (227 g) bulk chorizo sausage, cooked
2 tsp kosher salt
Tortilla chips

Heat a sauté pan with the vegetable oil

on medium low. When the oil starts to
shimmer, add the jalapeños and onion.
Cook slowly, stirring often until the onion
becomes translucent; do not allow the
onion to brown. Add the garlic and cook
for 1 minute. Add the tomato and cook for
an additional minute. Deglaze the pan with
the beer and cook until the liquid in the
pan is reduced by half. Add the cumin, re-
move the pan from the heat and set aside.
In a medium saucepan, heat the milk
and cream cheese over medium heat until
hot but not boiling. Whisk the mixture
until the cream cheese melts and the mix-
ture is smooth and thickened. Reduce the
heat to low and whisk in the cheddar and
Monterey Jack. Continue whisking until
the cheese is melted and smooth.
Add the tomato mixture, chorizo sau-
sage, and salt to the queso and stir well.
Serve warm with tortilla chips.
Beer Tasting Notes: Remember what we
said about bitterness being a problem in
many dishes? Here is a shining exception:
cheese. From a great American or West 1 cup (237 ml) milk When the grits/cornmeal are cooked,
Coast–style IPA, that crisp bitterness 8 fl oz (237 ml) hazy double IPA whisk in the chilled butter and Monterey
and those flavor notes that can be bright, ½ cup (118 ml) grits or medium-coarse Jack cheese. Adjust the seasoning as need-
rugged, and comforting all at once—grape- cornmeal ed. (Note: The grits can be prepared ahead
fruit, pine, light caramel—add interest and 10 shrimp, cleaned, tail off (choose shrimp and reheated slowly with a little milk over
an oddly addictive quality to sharp, creamy large enough to hold the bacon, nothing low heat.)
cheeses, especially in conjunction with smaller than a 21/25) To plate, place 1 cup (237 ml) of grits on
savory-spicy chorizo and earthy cumin. 5 slices bacon, cut in half a deep plate or bowl. Place 2 Tbs of the
Beer Suggestions: Stone Delicious IPA 3 Tbs butter, chilled chipotle-tomato butter on top of the grits.
(San Diego), Maine Beer Lunch (Free- ½ cup (118 ml) Monterey Jack cheese, Place 5 of the bacon-wrapped shrimp
port, Maine), 2nd Shift Art of Neurosis shredded on top of the grits and garnish with the
(St. Louis), Green Cheek It Just Works 1 Tbs chives, cut on the bias about 1" chives. Serve immediately.
(Orange, California), or your favorite local (25 mm) long Beer Tasting Notes: No holding back,
mid-strength, bright-and-bitter IPA. now. Here we double down on juicy hop
In a food processor, combine the softened character, allowing thick, creamy grits to
Bacon-Wrapped Shrimp butter, tomato paste, canned chipotles, absorb and reappropriate just enough of
and Grits with Tomato- and 1 tsp salt. Puree until smooth. Re- the sweetness and tiki-drink flavors of the
move the mixture from the food processor beer to add a new dimension. A broadly
Chipotle Butter and set aside in the refrigerator. sweet palate and big body tend to push
Chipotle peppers are smoked, dried jalapeños. Preheat the oven to 425°F (218°C). In a those juicier flavors from the hops, whose
Here, canned chipotles in adobo sauce add a medium saucepan, combine the milk, beer, tropical-citrus notes join the dish’s riot
rich, smoky, spicy kick to the dish. and remaining salt. Bring to a boil. Whisk of smoky-piquant chipotle, bacon, and
in the grits or cornmeal and reduce the heat fragrant chives. The sweet, toothsome
to low. Cover and cook until done, about 20 shrimp and buttery-cheesy grits them-
Serves: 2 minutes (check the package for correct time). selves serve as sturdy, forgiving communi-
While the grits are cooking, wrap each cators of all that flavor.
½ lb (227 g) butter, softened shrimp with a piece of bacon, securing the Beer Suggestions: Firestone Walker
2 Tbs tomato paste bacon with a toothpick if necessary. Place the Double Mind Haze (Paso Robles, Califor-
¼ cup (59 ml) canned chipotles in adobo shrimp on a sheet pan and cook until the ba- nia), Hop Butcher for the World Run to
sauce con has reached a desired doneness. Remove Daylight (Chicago), New Anthem BA’AL
2 tsp kosher salt, divided the shrimp from the oven and set aside. (Wilmington, North Carolina).

42 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING

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| GEARHEAD |
GEARHEAD
Pilot Breweries
Fly Us into the
Great Unknown
Some brew systems make beer for us to drink. Others just solve mysteries—
providing an acceptable outlet for failure and serving as the lifeblood of
craft beer. John M. Verive is on the case.
YOU MIGHT ASSUME THAT all beer is
meant to be enjoyed and that commercial
breweries are laser-focused on making beer
that people want to drink. However, not every
batch brewed is destined for taps or tankards.
“We’re not always brewing with the in-
tention of making great beer,” says Kushal
Hall, head brewer at Common Space
Brewery in southwestern Los Angeles
County. “Sometimes, we’re more interested
in making beer that answers a question.”
Sometimes, Hall says, the questions are
process related. (“What if we mashed in
at a higher temperature for a pale ale?”)
At other times, there are questions about
ingredients. (“What character will rice
syrup solids add to a beer?”) Or often, the
question is more playful. (“How can we
make a rhubarb beer?”)
Of course, the cost of those answers
would be impossible to justify if each
question required a 20-barrel batch just
to ask it. The alternative for breweries of
nearly every size is a smaller-scale batch.
Enter the pilot brewing system.
Defined more by intention than by any
commonalities in scale or equipment, the
pilot system is a scalable, accessible, and
flexible tool that any brewer can use to im-
prove their beer and grow their business.
While pilot systems are primarily viewed
as tools for recipe development—a place
to brew up test batches and dial-in recipes
before scaling up to a brewery’s full-sized
system—they also provide solutions for
many other problems that crop up in
a brewery. Like a Swiss Army knife, a
44 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
risk of brewing “a thousand gallons of the
crazy beers we wanted to try.”
Common Space isn’t using their pilot
system as much for recipe development as
well-thought-out pilot brewery is useful in they had anticipated. That’s partly because
many ways that are not obvious at first. it’s difficult to directly scale up recipes to
the big system—even with two closely
Piloting Toward Variety matched systems from the same manu-
In 2016, while planning Common Space, facturer. There are enough differences be-
Hall helped spec the 30-barrel brewhouse tween them that using the pilot system to
and its 4.2-barrel pilot system, both from try to improve efficiencies or perfect mash
Prospero Equipment. Since then, he says, schedules is a battle against diminishing
“a lot has changed.” The brewery’s original returns, Hall says. He would rather use
business plan was built around a produc- his resources on the bigger questions he
tion and distribution model. As the indus- can answer with the smaller system.
try and their understanding of it evolved, Amanda Podwinski, sales specialist at
that shifted more to on-premise. “We start- ABE Equipment, says that pilot systems
ed to focus more on the taproom business, are increasingly becoming a force mul-
and we learned the most important thing tiplier for brewers. “The lower-volume,
to the taproom customers is variety.” higher-margin taproom model is driving
They built the Common Space taproom demand for one-off beers, and that’s in-
with a 24-tap draft system, with a plan to creasing the demand for smaller systems.”
pour 12 different beers on two taps each— On the hot side, one of these systems
but patrons wanted more variety than that. can be as simple as a direct-fired kettle
To fill the gap, Hall leveraged the pilot with combo mash-and-lauter tun, or they
system. Instead of the pale ales, IPAs, and can be as complex as fully automated
lagers that kept the production system five-vessel setups. However, a crucial piece
turning, the smaller brewhouse could of the brewery-within-a-brewery concept is
focus more on niche offerings without the the cold side. Smaller-scale fermentation
[Decoction has] been a topic of scholarly debate
and barroom arguments between brewers for hun-
dreds of years. Today’s proponents say that even
with a kaleidoscope of highly modified modern
malts available, decoction can still make better beer.
 Right, From Top » Josie
Becker checks on a pilot brew
at Common Space; students
at Oregon State University
work with their pilot system.

vessels give brewers options for making

more unique brews, even without making
smaller batches of wort.
Common Space, for example, turns one
brew into four beers by splitting batches from
the big system into four conical fermentors,
each able to hold five hectoliters (4.2 barrels).
Then they can pitch different yeasts or try
different dry-hop regimens, to name two
possibilities. The results provide variety for
the tap list as well as educational opportuni-
ties for both brewers and customers.
John Kalinowsky, sales manager at
equipment manufacturer Brewmation,
says that adding some smaller fermentors
is an approachable and affordable way to
get a pilot or R&D program started.
There are certain questions that even a
10-gallon homebrewing setup can answer
as well as an automated, five-barrel system.

Intended for Innovation

In Corvallis, Oregon, there’s a brewery
that dumps most of the beer it makes.
The research brewery at Oregon State
University was built to answer questions,
and it isn’t licensed to sell the beer it
produces. The university modernized
the brewery in 2015 after a million-dollar
donation from Carlos Alvarez, founder of
The Gambrinus Company (owner of the
Shiner and Trumer brands). The research
brewery is available to OSU students and
faculty in the Food Science program, and
breweries can also hire it for R&D, process
and ingredient testing, or anything else for
which a brewer might use a pilot brewery.
“An R&D brewery is all about innova-
tion,” says Jeff Clawson, brewery manager.
He’s proud of its flexibility and capabil-
PHOTOS: COURTESY COMMON SPACE BREWERY; COURTESY OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY

ities—a five-vessel setup built around a

four-hectoliter kettle, with plenty of bells
and whistles that include a miniature
centrifuge and small-scale mash filter.
Clawson says there are three main
things that any pilot brewery needs: fine
control over each step in the process,
flexibility in design to handle a brewer’s
questions and hypotheticals, and—last
but not least—a brewer to run it. “It takes
commitment to run a research brewery,”
he says, and the more you use a pilot sys-
tem, the more value you get out of it.
Clawson says he thinks that almost any
brewery can benefit from a pilot system,
but the time to really consider adding one
is when the production system is so busy

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 45
| GEARHEAD |
meeting demand that pilot brews can’t
find time on the schedule. Without test
batches, innovation suffers.
“Innovation” is more than an overused
buzzword, Clawson says—it’s the lifeblood
of craft brewing, and it’s much more about
intention than investment. You know that
homebrew stand with turkey burners and
keggles, sitting under a tarp in the back
storage area? Sorry, that doesn’t count as
a pilot brewery—but dust it off and start
asking questions, and suddenly you’ve got
yourself a pilot brewing program.
The question of scale is more challenging.
Too large, and not only will the pilot setup
be expensive to build, but it will be more
expensive to run (in both material and labor
costs). Too small, and it may not be able to
answer all the questions you want to ask it.
Brewing at Three Scales
At Ninkasi Brewing in Eugene, Oregon,
pilot brewing is built into the company
culture. Daniel Sharp, director of brewing
operations there, describes the brewery’s
first pilot brewery as the “nano system.”
The half-barrel “elaborate homebrewing”
setup is used frequently for “off the wall
ideas.” It’s open for anyone trained on it to
try out a recipe.
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The system is a way to try new ideas
with minimal resources, but it makes
only one keg of beer at a time. That wasn’t
enough to meet the demand for variety in
the tasting room or the demands of brew-
ers looking to innovate on the production
system. “It’s really difficult to scale from
15 gallons to 90 barrels,” Sharp says.
Three years ago, Sharp added a larger
pilot system to the brewery, and it’s nearer
in character to the production brewhouse.
The three-vessel, five-barrel pilot kit from
Bridgetown Brew Systems makes a new
beer almost every week. “It’s an easy way to
keep 40 taps in the taproom full of fresh and
unique beer,” Sharp says. Members of the
brewing team each do three-month rotations
running the system. That time on the mini
brewery provides opportunities for training,
team building, and (inevitably) innovation.
The brewery-within-a-brewery also
gives Sharp a way to try out new equip-
ment and process improvements without
risking costly downtime on the produc-
tion system. He can find out whether it’s
worth the cost to add a new piece to the
production system or whether the new
part would be “just another nook to clean”
without adding value. (The newest addi-
tion is a tube-and-shell heat exchanger,
plumbed between the kettle and whirlpool
to drop wort temperatures at knockout by
about 20°F/10°C to improve the character
of whirlpool hop additions.)
At Ninkasi they can still use the nano
system for wacky ideas, out-of-the-box
ingredient tests, or just brewing up a
keg of something special for a company
event. The pilot system is more for trialing
process improvements and developing new
offerings for the tasting room. If a pilot
batch gets a great response from custom-
ers, the team can then work to dial it in and
perhaps, eventually, brew it on production
system for packaging and distribution.
Ninkasi’s year-round juicy IPA, Pris-
matic, was first made by brewer Jesse
Newhouse on the pilot system.
Fueling Creativity
Sharp at Ninkasi earned a doctorate
from OSU’s Food Science program, and
he maintains close ties to the research
brewery there. The OSU brewery provides
Ninkasi with additional resources to devel-
op new products. Sharp says that brewers
who are struggling to fit product devel-
opment into their production schedules
often overlook similar research breweries
at universities. He also suggests that brew-
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 ers can contact material suppliers or more
traditional contract breweries for specific
product-development projects.
Clawson says that many breweries are
open to outsourcing their test brewing.
Being busy and successful isn’t an excuse
to fail to innovate, he says. If time and
capacity are limiting factors, a brewery can
always buy innovation. Hiring brewery
consultants, engaging contract facilities,
or even acquiring innovative brands out-
right are now common workarounds in
the beer industry.
Meanwhile, both Podwinski at ABE and Oregon State University’s
pilot system is designed
Kalinowsky at Brewmation point out that for research and problem
new, small breweries can get their brand off solving.
the ground with a smaller system and thus
build expansion into their business plans.
“A pilot system can be your only system,”
Kalinowsky says, adding that these small There are countless questions that a Most importantly, it provides a low-risk
systems are good “stepping stones from the pilot brewery can answer, and countless space where failure is acceptable. Inno-
PHOTO: COURTESY OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY

home brewery to the pro brewery.”
Unlike breweries that launch with a
mid-sized 10- or 15-barrel system—and
then struggle to add capacity without big
facility overhauls—starting on a two-barrel
pilot system with a plan to add a second
brewhouse in a few years can be more
economical. After all, that pilot system can
still have a place in the expanded brewery.
uses for a second system beyond the
obvious task of developing new recipes.
Need to brew some sterile wort for yeast
propagation? Want to test the latest hop
product out on the market? Need to train
some new staff or help engage customers
in the process? A pilot brewing system
offers many ways to get returns on the in-
vestment in time, capital, and floor space.
vation cannot occur without the lessons
learned when things go wrong, and a bad
batch on a pilot brewery is much easier to
swallow than a production-scale batch.
“We try to celebrate dumping beer,” Hall
says. “It’s not that we want to fail, but
it has to be okay to try things that don’t
work out. The pilot system gives us more
freedom to be creative.”

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 47
| FESTBIER |
BREWING TRADITIONS
Brewing
the World’s
Most Famous
Party Lager
Whatever its strength, whatever its story, and whatever its color—amber or
gold?—festbier ought to be drinkable in quantity. Joe Stange dissects the
diverging styles to find out what makes a great (Oktober)festbier.
IT’S ONE OF THE MOST NOTORIOUS
confusions in beer and fodder for endless
lager-head fansplaining: Why is our Amer-
ican “Oktoberfestbier” a toasty, sweet
amber lager rather than something closer
to the sublimely dangerous golden liquid
that Bavarians actually drink by the liter at
Oktoberfest every year?
Or, to frame the question a different way:
Which beer is the real Oktoberfestbier?
It’s a trick question. The answer de-
pends on which Oktoberfest you mean.
Which year or era gets to define it?
If we’re going back in time (let’s go!) to
any of the fests in the first five or six de-
cades since the famous royal wedding and
horse race in 1810, we’ll almost certainly
be drinking a red-brown Münchner lager-
bier—essentially a proto-dunkel.
If we’re headed back to the later 19th or
early 20th centuries, we’ll have more choic-
es—a strongish, amber-colored, Vienna-like
märzen is invariably there, but (depending
on the year) so is a darker lager, a paler
When did the beer at Oktoberfest go blond?
That’s tricky. My educated guess: It happened
gradually, picking up momentum as the big beer
tents increasingly adopted clear glass mugs in-
stead of opaque steinkrüge.
48 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
helles, an export lager, a weissbier—and,
from 1895 to 1900, there is even a pilsner.
However, if we’re going back to the future
to the next Oktoberfest—planned for 2022,
since it’s taking another precautionary year
off due to the pandemic—we can expect
only one type of beer in the big tents: a
strong golden lager, softly sweet, yet with
a light balancing bitterness and drying
finish. It is palpably stronger than your
daily helles—yet, ideally, it is brewed to be
addictive and consumed in quantity. (For
more about the next Oktoberfest beers, see
“The Official Oktoberfestbiers,” page 51.)
About Munich’s Modern
Oktoberfestbier
The six breweries allowed to serve beer
at the Oktoberfest today— Augustiner,
Hacker-Pschorr, Hofbräu, Löwenbräu,
Paulaner, and Spaten—are the only ones
in Germany allowed to call theirs “Okto-
berfestbier.” (Notably, a local upstart called
Giesinger will soon be eligible to join the
club—and the brewery already produces a
festbier that fits the profile.) These brew-
eries are essentially a legal cartel serving
beer to a massive and eager audience.
When did the beer at Oktoberfest go
blond? That’s tricky. My educated guess: It
happened gradually, picking up momen-
tum as the big beer tents increasingly
adopted clear glass mugs
instead of opaque steinkrüge.
(Film clips from the early
1960s show both still in use,
with a relatively pale beer in
clear, dimpled mugs.) Anoth-
er source of confusion is that
beers labeled as märzen can sometimes be
pale and golden in Germany. And why not?
If you read American texts about Oktober-
festbier, you might encounter a few dubious,
recycled facts. One is that the beer at the
Wies’n all went golden around 1990—imply-
ing that it happened over the 1980s—or that
Paulaner was the first to introduce a golden
festbier in the 1970s. However, Oktoberfest
programs from the early 19th century make
it clear that there were paler beers alongside
märzenbier at least as early as 1895. It just
took them a long time to take over—and it
probably happened in fits and starts.
Another frequently repeated “fact” is
that Augustiner was the first to introduce
a golden beer to the Wies’n in 1953, with
its Wiesn-Edelstoff. However, those old
programs also make it clear that Augustin-
er was serving its Edelstoff Hell alongside
its märzenbier as early as 1929 and for
some years thereafter. (Thanks to Andreas
Krennmair, author of Historic German
and Austrian Beers for the Homebrewer, for
pointing me toward those programs, which
are publicly available at bavarikon.de.)
Regardless, festbier is the word we
typically use for this lighter-colored style
in North America, to distinguish it from
the richer amber lager that we often call
“Oktoberfest.”
America’s Amber
“Oktoberfest”
So, how did American brewers decide to
PHOTO: MATT GRAVES/WWW.MGRAVESPHOTO.COM
slap the O-word on an amber lager that
tastes like caramel? I’d argue that it’s
because we essentially embraced the idea
that Oktoberfestbier and märzen are the
same thing—because they often were—
but then we go and brew our märzen with
exaggerated malt character and sweetness.
Maybe there’s a place for that. It’s always
exciting to see those “Oktoberfest” beers
BEERANDBREWING.COM | 49

MAKE IT
Counter Weight
Fest Bier
Courtesy of Matt Westfall, founder and brewer of
Counter Weight Brewing in Hamden, Connecti-
cut, this homebrew-scale recipe is closely based on
the beer that won gold at the Great American Beer
Festival in 2020, in the category for Dortmunder and
German-Style Oktoberfest.
ALL-GRAIN
Batch size: 5 gallons (19 liters)
Brewhouse efficiency: 72%
OG: 1.055
FG: 1.010
IBUs: 22
ABV: 5.9%
MALT/GRAIN BILL
7.4 lb (3.4 kg) IREKS pilsner
2.1 lb (953 g) IREKS Vienna
10 oz (283 g) IREKS Munich (10 SRM)
3 oz (85 g) IREKS sour (acidulated) malt
HOPS SCHEDULE
0.36 oz (10 g) Hallertauer Magnum at 60 minutes
[17 IBUs]
1 oz (28 g) Hallertauer Mittelfrüh at 10 minutes
[5 IBUs]
YEAST
White Labs WLP830 German Lager or
Wyeast 2206 Bavarian Lager
DIRECTIONS
Mill the grains and mash at 152°F (67°C) for 1 hour.
Vorlauf until the runnings are clear, then run off into
the kettle. Sparge and top up as necessary to get about
6.5 gallons (25 liters) of wort—or more, depending
on your evaporation rate. Boil for 90 minutes, adding
hops according to the schedule. Chill to 50°F (10°C),
aerate well, and pitch plenty of healthy yeast. Ferment
at 52°F (11°C) until the gravity has dropped to about
1.017, then gradually allow the temperature to rise to
60°F (16°C) and hold there a few days for a diacetyl
rest. Steadily drop the temperature over 3–4 days to
35°F (2°C), then lager for at least 6 weeks. Package
and carbonate to about 2.6 volumes.
BREWER’S NOTES
We use acidulated malt to ensure we hit a mash pH
of 5.25–5.3, and we’ll adjust pH further in the kettle
if necessary to target a knockout pH below 5.2. (We
almost always end up with it at about 5.18, without
any lactic-acid adjustment necessary.)
50 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
| FESTBIER |
appear on shelves in late summer and early fall, and we’ve come to
identify them with the season—the urbane alternative to pumpkin beer.
The amber color seems to mirror the turning leaves, and its malty Mail-
lard flavors find their friends in a range of foods at family gatherings.
But the main problem with our usual American take on Okto-
berfest and märzen is this: It’s not especially drinkable. It’s got
character, sure. It often tastes good in 12-ounce quantities. But there
are not many that lend themselves to drinking by the liter, and then
maybe another liter—which ought to be the point, right? If your
“Oktoberfest” beer can’t honestly be drunk in Oktoberfest quanti-
ties, maybe you ought to choose a different name. It might be a good
beer, but it’s not a fest beer.
So, first of all, why did we settle on that one style? Maybe it’s be-
cause American brewers (and beer writers, apparently) rarely let the
facts get in the way of a good story—and the story of “March beer” is
a pretty good one.
Part of the story is that a 16th century Bavarian duke ruled that there
should be no brewing between late April and late September. So,
brewers had to make plenty of beer in the spring, and brew it stronger
so it would last through the summer. It’s a neat piece of history that
adds a veneer of mythology around Oktoberfest, whose brewers have
been able to use artificial refrigeration for about 140 years now.
Much later, Spaten is said to have introduced a “märzenbier” in 1841,
and by 1872 was calling it Oktoberfestbier. Also from 1872, another tale:
The famous Schottenhamel tent needed more beer, so Josef Sedlmay-
er of Franziskaner-Leistbräu sold them a stronger one in the Vienna
style—and that beer came to be sold as Oktoberfest-Märzenbier.
Many books and articles have repeated those stories, often un-
critically. Michael Jackson’s World Guide to Beer in 1977 equated the
beer at Oktoberfest with märzenbier and implied that it was “light
brown”—although paler beers were already being served at the
Wies’n by then. American microbrewers were brewing Oktoberfest-
inspired beers by the mid-1980s, with Samuel Adams Octoberfest
first appearing in 1989, tasting of caramel (its grist includes caramel
60) and no doubt influencing many other brewers.
We also can’t discount the influence of George and Laurie Fix’s
book in the Classic Beer Style Series, Vienna, Märzen, Oktoberfest,
first published in 1991. Still available from the Brewers Association,
the book remains a reference for American brewers. It includes a
recipe for “Traditional Oktoberfest/Märzen.” The grist is a pilsner
base plus 4 percent each of German light crystal, German dark crys-
tal, and British caramel (20°L). It lists the beer’s target color as 9 to
11°L, or 11 to 14 SRM—solidly amber, with some chewy malt depth.
When discussing festival beer, the Fix book leans heavily on a fairly
short 1984 article in Brauwelt by the famous Bavarian brewing scien-
PHOTOS FROM LEFT: COURTESY COUNTER WEIGHT BREWING; MATT GRAVES/WWW.MGRAVESPHOTO.COM
tist Ludwig Narziss. The Fixes mostly narrow their scope to a section
whose translated title is, “Märzen Beers and Fest Beers Derived from
Them.” However, the Narziss article has another section focused on
“Helle Export-, Spezial- und Festbiere”—that is, pale export, special,
and fest beers. He tests three pale festbiers for this article–again, this is
1984. Their gravities range from 13.6 to 13.9°P (1.055–1.056), with ap-
parent attenuation ranging from 83 to 88 percent—suggesting ABVs
of 6 to 6.5 percent. Their color ranges from 6.8 to 9.7 EBC, or roughly
3.5 to 5 SRM—as gold as gold can get.
Toward a Better (Amber) Oktoberfest
Of all the seasonal American lagers inspired by Oktoberfest, one of
the tastiest and most drinkable I’ve found comes from a disciplined
German-style brewery in Kansas City. For practical reasons, KC Bier
chose to go amber for its autumn Festbier, first brewed in 2014.
“We considered brewing an export-style golden lager like those served
in the tents at the Oktoberfest,” says founder Steve Holle. However, the
brewery already had its Helles Lager as a core brand, and they worried
that customers might get confused if the beer was a similar color. “So,
we chose to make a light reddish-amber lager closer to the märzen style,
but we wanted it to retain the crispness and
drinkability of the golden Wies’n beer.”
To get there, they leaned into Vienna
malt and lightened the gravity—it’s a mod-
est 5.5 percent ABV—tweaking the recipe
until they got what they wanted. Karlton
Graham, the head brewer at KC Bier, says
the goal was always great drinkability.
To get there, Graham says, “it has to be
dry.” The current grist is 45 percent pilsner,
45 percent Vienna, 7 percent acidulated
(sauermalz), and just 3 percent melanoidin
malt. KC Bier does two decoctions on that
mash, to deepen the malt character but
also (perhaps counterintuitively) to get
higher attenuation for an ultimately drier
beer. The team also pays close attention
to pH, aiming for a relatively low 4.85 pH
at knockout and 4.2 to 4.35 in the finished
beer. (However, Graham cautions that the
grist bill greatly influences the target pH,
so your numbers may vary.) They also
pitch plenty of fresh yeast to ensure that
the fermentation is healthy and clean.
“The one overriding concern as the reci-
pe changed over the years was, ‘How do I
feel about this beer after completing a liter
of it?’” Graham says that they reduced the
darker malts and adjusted the hop sched-
ule. By the time they were happy with it,
it was much closer to a traditional Vienna
lager than a classic märzen.
“The result is very clean, drinkable beer
that many people want to order a second li-
ter of in the biergarten,” Graham says, “and
that is not a common quality for any beer.”
Anatomy of a Winning
(Golden) Festbier
The golden beers served today at the Wi-
es’n by the six Munich breweries are more
like amped-up helles or export-strength
lagers. They range in strength from 5.8 to
6.3 percent ABV. The IBUs are invariably
in the low to mid-20s.
The starting gravity is almost univer-
sally 13.7°P—that’s 1.056—so the range
of alcoholic strengths gives you a sense
of how well attenuated it is, relative to
others. My personal favorites happen to
be from Augustiner and Hofbräu—and
not because they’re the two strongest,
at 6.3 percent ABV. It’s because they’re
drier beers; I find them easier to drink in
quantity, despite their strength.
See? Dangerous.
While the paler, modern interpreta-
tion may not be as common here, some
American brewers do embrace it. One of
those is Matt Westfall, founder and brewer
at Counter Weight Brewing in Hamden,
Connecticut. Counter Weight Fest Bier
won gold at the Great American Beer
Festival in 2020, in the category for “Dort-
munder or German-Style Oktoberfest.”
Westfall says he drank some great festbi-
er in Germany and wanted to brew some-
The Official
thing like it at home. “We feel this style is Oktoberfestbiers
more drinkable than the often too-sweet
Americanized version of märzens, often
found around New England come fall,” he Here are some publicly available details
on the Wies’n beer from each of the six
says. “Drinking German beers that achieve
Oktoberfest breweries:
tremendous malt flavor and aroma without
Hacker-Pschorr
detracting from drinkability has our team
5.8% ABV, OG 1.056 (13.7°P)
chasing that here in our brewery.”
Spaten
The Counter Weight approach to lagers
5.9% ABV, 23 IBUs
is “ultimately process driven,” Westfall
Paulaner
says. That means sound brewing practic-
6% ABV, OG 1.056 (13.7°P), grist: pilsner &
es: high-quality ingredients, being gentle dark Munich
on the wort, monitoring pH, and using
Löwenbräu
healthy yeast. “Proper time and tempera- 6.1% ABV, OG 1.056 (13.7°P)
ture [do] the rest.”
Augustiner
Westfall says he views Fest Bier as an 6.3% ABV
extension of their helles—called Ein
Hofbräu
Helles—one of his favorite beers to brew 6.3% ABV, OG 1.056 (13.7°P), 26 IBUs, grist:
and drink. “Adding more body and more pilsner & Munich
prominent malt character, with modest If you want to brew a convincing and
amounts of specialty malts, with a higher addictive version of that type of festbier,
starting and finishing gravity, gets us a here is our best advice:
bready honey-like sweetness that is much ▪ Aim for an OG of 1.056.
more prominent than in our helles.” ▪ Use German pilsner malt with just
They use a straightforward infusion mash, enough Munich to hit about 5 SRM
but the new brewery they’re building will (deep gold).
▪ Consider decoction mashing or a
allow Westfall and his team to experiment
multistep mash geared toward greater
with decoction. “We’ll be able to explore fermentability.
what this and other traditional processes ▪ Use Hallertauer hops, including a light
might do for our lager beers soon enough.” late-boil aroma burst, to get about 25 IBUs.
Counter Weight largely uses German ▪ Make a fresh yeast starter with your cho-
malt from IREKS, based in Kulmbach, sen lager strain; aerate well before pitching.
▪ Ferment at 50°F (10°C) patiently, then
Upper Franconia. They buy it from Stone
chill and lager for as many weeks as
Path Malt in Wareham, Massachusetts, you can stand it. —Joe Stange
along with some of Stone
Path’s own craft malts. Be-
sides good pilsner malt,
just a bit of malty oomph
and color come from
some “dark” Munich at
about 10 SRM. Westfall
says it’s “a really lovely
malt,” and it “pushes
the beer color just over
that straw color to a
deep gold.”
The key to Counter
Weight’s Fest Bier and
other lagers, Westfall
says, is attenuation.
They get about 80
percent attenuation on
the Fest Bier, leaving it
relatively dry despite its
strength.
“In our opinion,”
he says, “the balance
of good, expressive
malt character with-
in a well-attenuated
beer is the basis for
good-drinking, Ger-
man-style lager beer.”
BEERANDBREWING.COM | 51
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Bright&
Juicy&
Bitter&
Soft IPA
Explore the Outer Limits of
Craft Beer’s Favorite Style

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 53
| BRIGHT & JUICY & BITTER & SOFT |
FLAVOR FEVER
Deconstructing the
Heady Aromas of
IPA
Randy Mosher takes apart the intricate workings of IPAs—from the malt to the hop compounds that make them
special and compelling—so we can approach our brews and our sensory vocabulary with deeper thought.
IPAS CURRENTLY ACCOUNT FOR
about half of all craft beers sold in the
United States. Their bold flavors and
shapeshifting personalities, plus the fun
of terroir and varietal characteristics,
make them endlessly fascinating. Like
most beers, they’re mostly malt, hops,
water, and yeast—but hops are obviously
the starring attraction.
Yet no matter how hoppy the beer, more
than 98 percent of the dry ingredients are
typically malt or other grains. It’s crucial
to have that malty counterbalance to the
bitter, herbal character of hops. Together,
they’re perfect—as we’ve generally agreed
for the past thousand years or so.
First, Don’t Overlook the Malt
To understand IPA today requires a review
of the past four decades of its evolution.
Early craft ales—IPAs included—em-
ployed plenty of crystal or caramel malt,
transplanted from early homebrews, in
which it compensated for the diminished
aroma of malt extracts. Flavors range
from a light kettle-corn caramelization to
toffee and burnt-sugar notes. Those used
in IPAs stick to the lighter half of the spec-
54 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
trum and typically show caramel or toffee
notes, which can make the beer a bit
heavy on the palate. Taste Sierra Nevada
Pale Ale and you’ll get the picture.
Over the past 20 years, there’s been
less of this, allowing the delicate flavors
of hops to shine through. Many modern
IPAs use no crystal malt at all. One prob-
lem is that it ages rather poorly, picking
up a characteristic leathery-oxidized flavor
from compounds such as 2-isobutyl quin-
oline. This effect seems to be strongest in
mid-colored malts at about 40° Lovibond.
The historic base of IPA remains pale-
ale malt. At 2 to 4°L, it makes a gorgeous
pale amber beer. Extra color comes with
a bolder aroma: A brisk nuttiness results
from kilning under low-moisture condi-
tions, bolstering its refreshingly dry qual-
ities. Today’s brewers increasingly blend
the pale-ale malt with paler lager malt, or
they avoid it entirely in the newer hazy/
juicy style, where smooth and fat are the
goals. Other malts, however, have useful
flavor notes: Spun sugar from crystal 10
and confectionary caramel from Vienna
malt or caramel 20 are the most useful.
Adjuncts were not abundant in IPAs until
the recent wave of hazies, where grains such
as flaked oats, wheat, and rye can make up
as much as half of the fermentables. They
mostly add body and creamy texture, the
exception being rye’s sugar-and-spice notes.
Because of its gluey nature, it maxes out at
30 percent of the grist.
The Range & Vocabulary of
Hop Aroma
The original IPA hops were landrace variet-
ies, spontaneously developed and carefully
nurtured for centuries. The most famous
of these was East Kent Goldings. Contem-
porary brewing texts always make a point of
saying that the finest hops are mandatory
for IPAs. In fact, the famous “October” beer
that was IPA’s forerunner took that one step
PHOTOS: MATT GRAVES/WWW.MGRAVESPHOTO.COM
further, using recently harvested hops—
which, as we all know, taste freshest.
While East Kent Goldings still makes
marvelous beer, it’s an understatement
tto say that a lot has happened in the hop
world in the past 200 years. Accelerating
over the past few decades, we now face a
kaleidoscope of new varieties, which taste
of everything from strawberries (Barbe
Rouge) to white wine (Nelson Sauvin,
BEERANDBREWING.COM | 55
| BRIGHT & JUICY & BITTER & SOFT |

As much as 21 to 36 percent of linalool, for CITRUS

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tation, but much remains in the beer. Crucially,

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Hallertau Blanc) to tropical to delicate citrus. They’re abundant in the is its only route into beer. All of these have
punch (Galaxy and many plant world; we pick and choose from that been found to undergo chemical transfor-

BA L
F RUIT Y
New Zealand varieties). as best we can for our vocabulary. mations in acidic media (such as beer) over

HER
The choices can be over- time—one reason, perhaps, for the loss of
whelming. Unless you just The Moving Parts of Hop FL flavor asGEhoppy
NT beer ages.
Aroma
OR
AL PUN
want to go by what’s popular, Many terpenoids form complexes called
©2018, Randy Mosher

you’ll need to really dig in to begin to un-
derstand the personality of each variety.
Hop aromas have always been difficult
to get a grip on. There is, for exam-
ple, a longstanding term in hop par-
lance—“spicy”—that has no relationship
to any identifiable spice, but is often used
as a code word for hoppiness itself. Saaz
hops, which often get that label, represent
this best. As long as we all know what
we’re talking about, it’s an okay word, but
it highlights the inadequacy of descriptive
language, even among experts.
One reason hops are challenging to
describe is the vastness of their aromatic
composition. One of the most aromatical-
ly complex of all herbs, hops contain hun-
dreds of identifiable odorous chemicals
at varying levels, depending on variety,
location/terroir, growing conditions, age,
storage conditions, and more. Brewing
and fermentation specifics create further
changes. Unlike malt—whose flavor spec-
trum can be perfectly tracked by terms
for various cooked, baked, and roasted
foods—hop aromas don’t track anything
so familiar. As a result, we’re literally at
a loss for words. While we can learn the
names of a few of these odor chemicals,
most have only a passing similarity to
things we know well.
The majority of key hop-aro-
ma compounds are ter-
penoids. Think about the
word “turpentine,” from
which it is derived, and
you’ll get the picture. These
have sharp, oily, resiny aro-
mas spanning a range from
piney through floral of all sorts
While many terpenoids are present in
hoppy beers, a few are particularly prom-
inent and worth getting to know. Here
are a few, with aroma descriptors from
GoodScents Company (http://www
.thegoodscentscompany.com/), an online
aroma chemical resource:
▪ Geraniol: sweet, floral, fruity, rose,
waxy, citrus
▪ Linalool: citrus, floral, sweet, bois de rose
(rosewood), woody, green, blueberry
▪ Beta-citronellol: floral, leather, waxy,
rose bud, citrus
▪ Nerol: sweet, natural, neroli (orange
blossom), citrus, magnolia
To this I would add a few notes. Geraniol
is prominent in all the “C-hops” (Cascade,
etc.), and in my mind it corresponds best
to marigolds or geraniums. Linalool can
be found in orange, lavender, and promi-
nently in coriander seed. Beta-citronellol
smells of lemongrass to me.
Many of these terpenoids are so closely
related that they can change into one
another under certain conditions, especially applesauce odor; carboxylic acids such as
during fermentation. Nerol and linalool
are isomers of each other, as are geraniol
and alpha-terpineol. Since isomers are mol-
ecules containing the same number and
type of atoms, all that is required is rear-
rangement. This is the phenomenon called
“biotransformation” that is well-known in
the double dry-hopped hazy IPAs, where of our olfactory receptors. Hop companies
actively fermenting yeast transforms
the less desirable pungent floral notes
of geraniol into the pleasing citrusy
floral linalool and sometimes even
into beta-citronellol. Interestingly,
the latter is present in beer but absent
from hops, so a transformative pathway are usually just abbreviated. Perhaps the
glycosides—small aromatic molecules
bound to heavier sugar molecules. This
makes them nonvolatile and therefore un-
smellable. As much as 21 to 36 percent of
linalool, for example, is bound; some may
be released by thermal or enzymatic means
during fermentation, but much remains
in the beer. Crucially, the enzymes in our
saliva and from bacteria in our mouths can
break these bonds and liberate fresh aroma
compounds. This is one of many good
reasons to pay attention to the retronasal
smell—the odors passing up from your
gullet and exiting through your nose.
Some other chemical groups contrib-
ute to hop aromas. Aldehydes such as
(Z)-4-hexenal contribute to the “green”
aroma of fresh hops. Some esters contrib-
ute subtle fruity notes; many are closely
related to geraniol. A couple of carot-
enoids are important: Beta-ionone brings
violet or iris-root floral notes; beta dama-
scenone is associated with overaged hoppy
beers, presenting a foxy Concord-grape or
cheesy-smelling isovaleric acid usually
result from improper storage.
One important group of aroma-active hop
compounds contains sulfur. It is smellable
in vanishingly small amounts because our
exquisite sensitivity to sulfides and thiols is
due to copper and zinc complexes in some
have had to purchase much more sensitive
analytical equipment just to study them.
Despite low parts-per-billion concentra-
tions, they play an outsize role, especially
in the newer fruity and tropically tinged
varieties. With long, unwieldy names, they

56 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING

 FIVE ON FIVE:

West Coast IPA

best know is 4-MMP (4-mercapto-4-meth-
ylpentan-2-one), with a fruity black-currant
character. Others are responsible for binations thereof, these
sic to tropical and crisp and various com le. Five
sauvignon-blanc/passion-fruit and latex/ From bright and clas future trajectory of the sty
IPAs reflect the past and
guava notes. Hop plants create thiols with West Coast or American orites.
pros offer up their fav
oniony off-flavors in response to stressful
growing conditions. “Onion bagel” is an
apt description for these toasty notes. Societe, owTh e Pupil a Mader
Aside from the challenge we have Nick Mader ner and head brewer, Alm
Missouri
of learning dozens of different hop Brewing in Kansas City, rs ago,
firs t tim e I had The Pupil was about seven yea
compounds, an odor is never the “Th e
tha t red efin ed We st Coast
ment
simple sum of its parts. Odorants and it was a watershed mo d, and soft bitterness with
nce
IPA for me—incredibly bala as well
may positively stimulate sensory t on the nose and flavor,
loads of bright tropical frui e cha rac ter and bon e-dry
receptors, but they can also inhibit them. ruit -pin
as the mid-palate grapef ly drin kab le. Sev en years
gerous
They also compete with each other for finish that makes it so dan ent atio n of the style,
nderful repres
receptor binding spots, and the most later, I think it is still a wo ard to drin kin g when we’re
look forw
competitive odorants are not necessarily and the beer I always
nia visiting family.”
the ones stimulating the strongest back in Southern Califor
sensation. Many terpenoids are
well-known masking agents. So,
ide Wan
Breaksfou derjackg in
the pattern ultimately presented nder, Cloudburst Brewin
Steve Luke,
to our nose for decoding is anything Seattle
Breakside Wanderjack
but logical. This is a problem—but clever “I’ve been digging the new
col lab with Bar ley Brown’s. When
brewers can tinker and find magical IPA, which is a our region make
wer s from
combinations that are much more than two of the best IPA bre n. And the end
atte ntio
the sum of their parts. a beer together, you pay le of a true PNW-
an outsta nding exa mp
result is
! A touch of actual malt
style IPA: Ample bitterness
Communicating What Our character! A clean, neu tral ferm entation! And an
Nose Knows pin ey hop s from start to
abundance of fruity and t? Another pint.”
So, that’s the biochemistry of hop aromas. at mo re do you wan
finish! Wh
Now let’s look at it from the viewpoint
of our nose and vocabulary that we can
actually use. For help, we can look at
tools such as aroma wheels and spider Tree Hou se Bright , Roaring Table
diagrams, which can serve as vocabulary g, cofounder and brewer
Lane Fearin
, Illinois
prompts. In Figure 1 is one I put together Brewing in Lake Zurich room
a local BBQ joint and the
based on descriptors that should be famil- “We popped our cans in eness. Rich, dry, and
awe som
filled up with fruity citrus
iar to most beer enthusiasts. nitive modern IPA.”
delicious, Bright is the defi
However, there are a million ways to
slice and dice the experience. Besides
functioning as a flavor wheel, these spider
charts can be used for visual notetaking
by placing a dot for each attribute, with
higher values placed farther from the
Pizza Po rt Swami’s brewer,
center. Connecting the dots gives a recog- on, cofounder and head
Mike Morris
tura, California
nizable pattern, which is why they now MadeWest Brewing in Ven ast IPA with a
go We st Co
are often included with information about “It’s a solid San Die
-pine character and a firm
hop-forward citrus-and
hop varieties provided by hop companies. much guarantee it’s going
bitterness. You can pretty
You can’t make IPA without yeast, but and the qua lity is never compromised
to be fresh, . Definitely a go-to
its effects on the beer are far outshone by ning fac ility
with their killer can
the depth and complexity of hops. The West Coast for me.”
effects of yeast are subtle; more push and
PHOTOS: COURTESY SOCIETE; COURTESY BREAKSIDE; MATT GRAVES;

pull, affecting the total pattern without

revealing itself too much. Certainly, there
are classic yeasts associated with British n Manny
Georgeon,tocofwoun ’s Pale Ale
ales that possess specific characteristics. der, Hanabi Lager
COURTESY PIZZA PORT; COURTESY GEORGETOWN

Nick Gislas
Hazy-juicy IPA brewers appreciate yeasts in Napa, California er-classic
rgetown Brewing is a sup
that enhance the creaminess of the beers “Manny’s Pale Ale from Geo style. A partner in many Pacific
beer
and engage in biotransformation. version of this iconic craft anced,
beer for me is just so bal
It’s easy to focus on the conspicuous as- Northwest adventures, this er clean and lively, a total
l, yet sup
aromatic and flavorfu kability,
pects of IPAs: their bold flavors and bright tament to this beer’s drin
aromas. But a true revelation, for brewers desert-island beer. A tes duc ing an imp ressive
of pro
Georgetown has a record per year, and almost all of it
and enthusiasts alike, requires peering 000-p lus bar rels
draft-only, 50, wery.
r or two drive from the bre
beneath the surface into their beckoning is consumed within an hou
!”
depths. A true beer of the people

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 57
| BRIGHT & JUICY & BITTER & SOFT |
NEW TECHNIQUES
Hop Terpenes:
Brewing with the
Essence of Hops
Brewers are in the early days of experimenting with liquid hop terpenes—
incredibly potent isolates of aromatic compounds that can deliver a big
boost to the IPA bouquet. Ryan Pachmayer explains.
BOLD PREDICTION: Over the next
decade, some breweries will shift to using
100 percent liquid hops. Made from
terpenes—highly aromatic compounds
that enjoy especially high concentrations
in hops as well as cannabis—they can add
incredibly potent aromas and flavors to
beer. As a bonus, they also offer benefits
to brewing efficiency.
While many brewers are just trying
to keep up with demand for their IPAs,
Brandon Capps has had great success
in using hop terpenes in some limit-
ed-release IPAs. The owner and founder
of New Image Brewing, in the Denver
suburb of Arvada, combines the terpenes
with more conventional hops (in T-90
pellet form) to achieve the final flavor in
several of his popular IPAs.
“I’ve been using this as more of a
finishing salt to date,” Capps says. He
uses terpenes for up to 20 percent of the
hop bill, focusing on the unique flavor
contributions they bring to the base beer,
in conjunction with conventional hops.
While still uncommon in the brewing
industry, extracted terpenes have gained
more attention in recent years. Famously,
Sweetwater Brewing in Atlanta uses can-
nabis terpenes alongside hops in its G13
IPA, and New Belgium does the same for
The Hemperor “HPA.” Terpenes extracted
from hops, however, have been used by a
few smaller breweries with less fanfare.
While Cryo Hops (made by Yakima
Chief) are known for reducing vegetal
matter in the final beer, and Incognito
(made by John I. Haas) brings a full
spectrum of flavor in liquid form via a
whirlpool addition, hop terpenes—which
as a concept are not proprietary, but must
be produced by specialized extraction
58 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
equipment—blast the intensity of that
hop flavor up to a 10.
Big Gains in Efficiency
Brewers who’ve used hop terpenes talk
about the eye-popping efficiency gains.
While Capps at New Image has primarily
focused on the flavor benefits of terpenes,
he says that the efficiency gains are a nice
bonus. Hop terpenes can keep for several
years, and they take up less than 10 percent
of the space needed for a comparable
amount of pellet hops. A company with the
right equipment can take any overstock—
or hops that are just past their best days, or
even freshly harvested ones—and extract
terpenes for future use.
For brewers, there is no sludgy biomass
to soak up wort or complicate runoff, and
they report 10 to 15 percent higher yields.
The extraction relies on a supercritical
CO2 process rather than solvents, so its
proponents pitch it as environmentally
friendly. And considering the flavor and
aroma benefits, a future where some
breweries go with 100 percent liquid hops
doesn’t seem all that far-fetched.
Local Relationships Matter
Oast House Oils is part of Isolate Extraction
Systems in Louisville, Colorado, about 15
miles north of New Image. Created by
longtime brewer Rob Kevwitch for IES—
which builds the supercritical extraction
machines—Oast House has been extracting
hop terpenes since 2019 and has a small
team dedicated to serving brewery clients.
“So much of the good stuff in hops
is wasted,” Kevwitch says. “I wanted to
create a product that gave consumers a
better experience that was also better for
the environment.”
Kevwitch—who also cofounded Grist
Brewing in 2013, just south of Denver—is
a doctor of organic chemistry with years of
experience in brewing and flavor-related
research and development. Oast House
has been working with New Image and
other local breweries, such as Telluride,
on developing new terpene flavors.
So far, New Image has used seven
different terpene varieties. But Isolate’s
labs also extract oils for other customers,
including orange, peppermint, cinnamon,
various teas, walnuts, pecans, and more.
How to Brew with Terpenes
Because the terpenes add a powerful hop
flavor to finished beer, Capps suggests us-
ing a sweeter base beer with a bigger malt
cushion to try them out—think double
IPA. On the hot side, he says he’s had a lot
of success using terpenes in the whirlpool.
On the cold side, he says that adding them
in the brite tank has worked well for him.
Notably, one problem complicating the use
of these terpene extracts is that they’re hy-
drophobic—they don’t mix well with water.
Capps says they should be mixed first with a
spirit of at least 190 proof, such as Everclear,
before adding to the beer. For a six-gallon
batch, he recommends adding just 1 ml of
terpene extract mixed with 5 ml of alcohol.
Although professional brewers are just
beginning to tinker with hop terpenes, it
is possible for homebrewers to buy them.
Kevwitch says to contact Oast House Oils
directly via its website, oasthouseoils.com;
enough liquid to dry hop about 60 gal-
lons (227 liters) of beer costs $35.
Maniacal Yeast Labs in Pittsfield,
Maine, also produces hop ter-
penes using a different process
involving fractional distillation
and chromatography. Maniacal
sells the terpenes in 5 ml
quantities for $36 on its web-
site, mainiacalyeast.com/.
 One Brewer’s Terpene Tasting Notes
Just as hops of the same variety can smell
different from one another, the flavors and
aromas of terpenes can vary, too. Here, Bran-
don Capps provides a breakdown of each
hop terpene he’s used so far at New Image:
GALAXY
“Terpene extraction brings out a lot of the
bold tropical-fruit character that many love
from Galaxy. In my opinion, it also brings out
a lot more of the dank and vegetal character-
istics that are usually a little more balanced in
Galaxy. If you like big dank, almost marijua-
na-like intensity combined with bold fruit, this
is a good candidate.”
NELSON
“The usual notes of tropical fruit, grape, and
melon are present. The diesel character is also
enhanced quite a bit, relative to the typical
balance from dry hopping.”
STRATA
“This is one of my favorites for terpenes. The
aroma is like fresh strawberries, and it’s so
clean and pure. Little to no intense dank or
vegetal qualities—just gobs of stone fruit.”
PHOTOS: MATT GRAVES/WWW.MGRAVESPHOTO.COM
MOSAIC
“As Mosaic tends to be a pretty variable va-
rietal, the results are going to depend heavily
on the lot that was extracted. We select a very
fruit-forward Mosaic with very little vegetal
character, so the terpenes we’ve used tend
to lean heavily in the bright citrus and sweet
tropical-fruit direction.”
CITRA
“Typical bold notes of citrus and tropical
fruit are present but come alongside some
very enhanced aromas of the sort of catty
character Citra was known more for a decade
or so ago. This can be good if you like more of
those intense characteristics but very differ-
ent from typical Citra dry hopping.”
IDAHO 7
“Very intense, sweet, red stone-fruit character.
Little to no intense acidic or vegetal qualities.”
IDAHO GEM
“Somehow both bold and subtle at the same
time. Melon, peach, grape, and tropical fruit are all
floating around in there. Mellows well into lighter
bases but stands up strong in big IPAs, too.”
MAKE IT
New Image
Pure Isolate
Double IPA
Courtesy of New Image founder Brandon
Capps, here is a homebrew-scale recipe
for Pure Isolate, a hazy double IPA that
makes use of liquid hop terpenes.
ALL-GRAIN
Batch size: 5 gallons (19 liters)
Brewhouse efficiency: 72%
OG: 1.090
FG: 1.018
IBUs: 34
ABV: 9.4%
MALT/GRAIN BILL
11.8 lb (5.4 kg) two-row pale
1.6 lb (726 g) white wheat malt
1.2 lb (544 g) flaked oats
1.2 lb (544 g) flaked wheat
HOPS & ADDITIONS SCHEDULE
12 oz (340 g) dextrose at 60 minutes
1 oz (28 g) Simcoe at 5 minutes [7 IBUs]
2 oz (57 g) each Simcoe and Mosaic at
whirlpool [27 IBUs]
3.5 oz (99 g) Mosaic at dry hop
4 oz (113 g) Simcoe at dry hop
0.8 ml Strata hop terpenes at packaging
YEAST
Wyeast 1318 London Ale III
DIRECTIONS
Mill the grains and mash at 150°F (66°C)
for 60 minutes, then run off into the kettle.
Sparge and top up as necessary to get about
6.5 gallons (25 liters)—or more, depending
on your evaporation rate. Add dextrose and
boil 60 minutes, adding hops according to
the schedule. After the boil, conduct a whirl-
pool step: Stir to create a vortex, cool to 180°F
(82°C), add the whirlpool hops, and allow
30 minutes to settle. Chill to 70°F (21°C),
aerate well, and pitch plenty of healthy yeast.
Ferment at 72°F (22°C). When fermentation
is complete, crash to 35°F (2°C), rack off the
trub and onto the dry hops in a purged vessel.
After 1 day, rack into a keg or bottling bucket,
adding hop terpenes pre-blended with 5 ml
of Everclear once about a quarter of the beer
has been transferred. Package immediately
and carbonate to about 2.2 volumes.
BEERANDBREWING.COM | 59
| BRIGHT & JUICY & BITTER & SOFT |
BREWING TRENDS
German IPA:
It Should Be
More of a Thing
The idea is simple: an IPA that relies on German ingredients—and particularly
on the country’s distinctive aroma hops. Does it exist? Yes. Is it rare? Also,
yes. Josh Weikert digs into the German and U.S. beer scenes to find out
why—and to get the blueprints.
IT SEEMS LIKE THERE’S an IPA for
every occasion and persuasion these days—
English and American, East Coast and West,
hazy and rye, double and triple, imperial and
session, black and white and red—in every
combination you can envision. Yet since my
earliest days as a homebrewer, and through
15 years of drinking and writing about beer
and brewing, I’ve been waiting for a beer
that never arrived: the German IPA.
Its absence is striking. After all, Germa-
ny is a seminal region for beer, and not
just for lager. This is the home of Kölsch,
altbier, Berliner weisse, gose, and weissbier,
after all, so there is plenty of top-fermented
variety here. It’s also one of world’s major
hop gardens, including the increasingly
exotic varieties bred at the Hops Research
Center Hüll in the Hallertau. Hop-forward
German beers are real things that exist,
too—drinking an Uerige Altbier, a Kees-
mann Herren Pils, or a Schneider Hopfen-
weisse, to name a few examples, quickly
dispels any suspicion that German brewers
or drinkers are allergic to hops.
Still, when I asked a Berlin brewer known
locally for hazy New England–style IPAs
whether he had ever tried brewing one
with only German hops, his answer was
terse: “No. I don’t believe that would work.”
Is that pessimism warranted?
Not really, as it turns out. Let’s look at what
German IPA is, as far as it goes—as well as
what it could become. Along the way, we’ll
60 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
get a lesson on the global popularity of IPA,
as seen through the lens of German brewing.
From Imitation to Innovation
First, I ought to point out that IPA is a
thing that exists in Germany and that
there are internationally oriented brewer-
ies that specialize in it. Finding one that
embraces German ingredients—especially
German aroma hops—is more difficult.
As an American brewer in Munich, Paul
Higgins—cofounder and brewer of Hig-
gins Ale Works—embraces both German
aroma hops and New World varieties in his
pale ales and IPAs. His New England–style
pale ale, Secret Idaho—featuring Vic Secret,
Idaho 7, and Falconer’s Flight—recently
won a silver medal at the 2021 London Beer
Competition. However, he’s also brewed
fresh-hopped ales with Hallertau Blanc,
while his Retro-Rocker Red IPA features
German-grown Amarillo, Comet, and
When I asked a Berlin brewer known locally
for hazy New England–style IPAs whether he
had ever tried brewing one with only German
hops, his answer was terse: “No. I don’t believe
that would work.” Is that pessimism warranted?
Polaris alongside U.S. Cascade, Centennial,
Citra, Falconer’s Flight, and Simcoe.
In Higgins’ view, “IPAs can generally
take on new twists with local ingredi-
ents or techniques that otherwise were
not attempted”—for example, a Haller-
tau-hopped IPA made with Munich malt.
For the most part, however, German
brewers have mostly modeled their IPAs
on American ones, and that includes
embracing New World hops.
“Keep in mind that the German ‘craft-
beer’ scene emerged only around 2010,”
says Oliver Wesseloh, founder and brewer
of Kehrwieder Kreativbrauerei in Ham-
burg. Germany has long had smaller, in-
dependent brewers, of course. But it was
only a decade or so ago that more of them
began to be inspired by the vibrant U.S.
beer scene. Back then, Wesseloh says, IPA
was more straightforward: “Big, bold, and
hoppy. Hence the first German IPAs were
straight imitations of American IPAs.”
In other words, if you’re a German
brewer looking at the rampaging success
of IPA in America, you’re unlikely to stray
far from that formula.
PHOTO: MATT GRAVES/WWW.MGRAVESPHOTO.COM
BEERANDBREWING.COM | 61
| BRIGHT & JUICY & BITTER & SOFT |
Another brewery unabashedly embracing
that approach is BRLO in Berlin. “BRLO
IPA is definitely an imitation,” says Michael
Lembke, BRLO’s brewmaster. “[It’s] an
only-pilsner-malt, Simcoe-hot-side, dry-and-
bitter IPA at 6.5 percent ABV. Dry hopped
with Mosaic, Amarillo, and Citra—about as
‘West Coast’ as it gets.”
The BRLO team also brew hazy, New
England–style IPAs with soft, juicy
qualities that would be familiar to today’s
American drinkers. However, they also
brew a German IPA that spotlights Ger-
man hops—but we’ll get to that.
Meanwhile, down south, in the Franco-
nian village of Weiher, Roland and Oswald
Kundmüller—brewers of the Weiherer beers
at Brauerei Kundmüller—recall their first
attempts at IPA back in 2013: “We wanted to
brew an IPA with a traditional German ale
yeast,” they tell me in an email. “For sure, it
was no American- or English-style IPA in the
end. But the people liked the fruity aroma
and the dry hopping.” Once they switched
to the more common Chico strain—whose
cleaner profile helps the hops to stand
out—“the people liked it even more.”
The choice between using American
or German aroma hop varieties is a real
one—they produce different profiles. Man-
darina Bavaria, for example, can produce
soft tangerine along with herbal notes,
while the more intense Citra can lead to
aromas of candied orange peel or veer off
into sweet tropical fruit. Both are fruity and
pleasant, but the Citra is punchier.
“If you work with German aroma hops,”
the Kundmüllers say, “you will never find
such an intenseness in exotic aromas as
using, for example, Citra or Mosaic.”
My own review of German-brewed IPAs
suggests that most do tend to stick close
to American craft-market trends—geo-
graphically German, yes, but composition-
ally American.
Not all of them, though. While many
German brewers started (then stayed) with
American hops in American-style IPAs,
a few others have gone in a more local
direction. They include Eric Toft, the Wyo-
ming-born brewmaster at Private Land-
brauerei Schönram in Upper Bavaria.
“We use only German varieties,” Toft says.
“Since everyone is using U.S. hops now, it is
not so much fun to use them. And German
hops give a similar profile, but with a defi-
nite continental European terroir character.”
Toward a Proper German IPA
Beer styles evolve as a function of both
local ingredients and local demand, and
German-brewed IPA is no different. It’s
been informed by access to German ingre-
dients as well as by the perceived demand
of German drinkers.
62 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
The choice between using American or
German aroma hop varieties is a real one—
they produce different profiles. “If you work
with German aroma hops, you will never
find such an intenseness in exotic aromas
as using, for example, Citra or Mosaic.”
Notably, beer in Germany is not the “ad-
venture” that it can be in North America.
Beer is more of a staple than it is an expe-
rience. Maybe it’s okay for German IPA to
be more tame than American IPA—espe-
cially if it’s also more drinkable.
“Drinkability seems to be key for
German beer drinkers,” says Wesseloh
in Hamburg. He says that IPAs there are
currently trending toward a more “re-
laxed” side—6.5 percent ABV and below,
IBUs ranging from about 40 to 60, golden
in color, with a lighter body than before.
In Berlin, Lembke agrees, suggesting
that German drinkers never really took to
beers higher than 60 IBUs.
That’s not to say you don’t see experi-
mentation or a focus on hops, however.
“As the hop varieties increase in Germany
and Europe as well,” Wesseloh says, “you
can see some more local hops being
showcased in German IPAs—I am a huge
fan of Callista, for example.”
Callista is a Hüll-developed hop with
intense stone-fruit and berry flavors,
yet it also has what I describe as typical
Noble-hops smoothness—perfect for a
German IPA.
At BRLO in Berlin, they took a similar
approach: “The plan was to create a beer
people would love as an entrance to the
craft-beer and IPA world, showcasing
only German ingredients,” Lembke says.
“That’s how we came up with the German
IPA, a hybrid between an English and an
American IPA. The malt bill resembles
more of an English IPA, to balance out
the bitterness. The hops we use for the
German IPA are Polaris, Hüll Melon, and
Comet. It yields a really nice strawberry,
red-berry hop profile, which complements
the full body.”
Why aren’t there more German brewers
embracing such hops to make distinctive
IPAs? Maybe there is a lack of appreci-
ation for what’s in their own backyard.
Schönramer’s Toft describes the reluc-
tance: “Very few German brewers are will-
ing to give their own varieties a chance,”
he says. “I think there are more U.S.
brewers using new German varieties than
there are German brewers doing so.”
Das Design
If you want to brew your own German
IPA, here are some guideposts.
MALT
There’s no need to veer away from com-
mon IPA grists, and Germany produces
some of the world’s best malt. Why use
American two-row, when it’s not a major
recipe departure to use German-grown pil-
sner, Munich, or Vienna malts in an IPA?
WATER
The water chemistry here is similar to
American IPA: much more sulfate than
chloride, for a crisp bitterness.
YEAST
The goal is a clean profile and high attenu-
ation for a drier finish, and there are many
ways to get there. Many German brewers
use US-05 or other Chico strain for their
IPAs, but a Kölsch or German ale strain
would also work. Notably, at Kehrwieder,
Wesseloh sometimes uses a diastaticus
strain to really grind down the gravity to
dryness without adding enzymes.
HOPS
Since we’re talking IPA, hops is the fun
part. The German brewers I contacted
provided a laundry list of hops—usually
in combinations of American, European,
and sometimes Australian or New Zealand
varieties. However, here is where we make
our stand: They must be German-grown.
These can be new-school German
aroma hops such as Mandarina Bavaria,
Callista, Hüll Melon, or Hallertauer Blanc.
However, if you can source them, they can
also be German-grown versions of classic
American hops, such as Cascade, Centen-
nial, or Chinook. Can you layer in some
more subtle Noble hops, too? Of course—
but don’t go too subtle. We’re brewing IPA
here, after all.
Meanwhile, if you can get away with it,
it’s hard to argue with the approach of
Higgins in Munich: “In the harvest season,
we always drive to the Hallertau region for
fresh, wet hops that go straight into the
annual release of our Wet Hop beers.”
Craze, or Crazy?
The aspect of beer and brewing that first sank its hooks into
me wasn’t the ingredients, or the culture, or even the fla-
vors—though I love all of those. It was seeing the way that beer
had evolved from place to place based on each locale’s unique
conditions, thus creating a huge range of beer types and styles.
Those vectors of influence aren’t frozen in time. Some of the
world’s greatest types of beer came out of Germany, and there’s
no reason German IPA shouldn’t be one of them.
In seeking out their thoughts on German IPA, I couldn’t
help asking German brewers whether they felt any trepida-
tion or concern that the global obsession with IPA could be
a longer-term cause for concern. The responses represent a
combination of enthusiasm for innovation and wariness at
the potential for disruption.
“IPAs showcase the goodness of the main ingredients of
beer as an agricultural product,” says Lembke in Berlin. “It
needs to be carefully selected and then handled in the brew-
ery, and to master that, it takes skilled brewers. And, honestly,
amongst all the crazy new beer styles evolving out there, who
doesn’t enjoy a no-bullshit IPA?”
My thoughts exactly—but then, there’s a little voice in the
back of my head that whispers, “Okay … but what if it’s bull-
shit that sells?”
“It’s a good thing, so long as it doesn’t destroy some great tradi-
tional beers,” says Higgins in Munich. “Thus far, I don’t see that
as a danger here [in Germany]. People still like their local beers.”
In Hamburg, Wesseloh strikes a balance: “I have mixed feel-
ings, as this IPA craze also inspires people to call everything ‘IPA’
because that’s what consumers are looking for. I have to admit,
I don’t get the IPA point in black IPAs, milkshake IPAs, or sour
IPAs—but hey, let the consumers judge.”
Fair enough. Let the market decide. And it’s clear that IPA
has become a force for smaller, independent brewers—and
not only in North America, but worldwide.
From rural Franconia—home to some of the world’s most
exquisite traditional lagers—the Kundmüllers share an optimis-
tic view on IPA: “It is definitely a good thing,” they say in their
email. “One part of our philosophy is, ‘Give everyone the chance
to find the beer he or she likes—brew variety, show variety.’”
So long as that variety persists, you’ll hear no complaints
from me. In fact, for me, variety is the point of all of this.
MAKE IT
Kehrwieder SHIPA:
Callista
Courtesy of Oliver Wesseloh, brewer and founder of Kehrwieder
Kreativbrauerei in Hamburg, here is a single-hopped IPA that
goes all-in on Callista. Released by the Hop Research Center Hüll
in 2016, Callista is a lower-alpha but fruit-forward hop variety that
can produce aromas of berries, stone fruit, pears, and citrus.
ALL-GRAIN
Batch size: 5 gallons (19 liters)
Brewhouse efficiency: 72%
OG: 1.068
FG: 1.011
IBUs: 65
ABV: 7.5%
MALT/GRAIN BILL
12 lb (5.4 kg) Vienna
9 oz (255 g) Weyermann CaraFoam/CaraPils
HOPS SCHEDULE
2 oz (57 g) Callista at FWH [30 IBUs]
1.3 oz (37 g) Callista at 30 minutes [15 IBUs]
1.8 oz (51 g) Callista at 10 minutes [10 IBUs]
1.7 oz (48 g) Callista at 5 minutes [5 IBUs]
2 oz (57 g) Callista at whirlpool [5 IBUs]
1.33 oz (38 g) Callista at first dry hop
2 oz (57 g) Callista at second dry hop
YEAST
Wyeast WY1056 American Ale
DIRECTIONS
Mills the grains and mash at 152°F (67°C) for 45 minutes. Vorlauf
until the runnings are clear, then run off into the kettle with
first wort hops. Sparge and top up as necessary to get about
6.5 gallons (25 liters) of wort. Boil for 45 minutes, adding hops
according to the schedule. After the boil, stir for 5 minutes to
create a vortex, add the whirlpool hops, and allow 20 minutes to
settle. Chill to about 63°F (17°C), aerate well, and pitch the yeast.
Ferment at 61°F (16°C) for about a week, then allow the tempera-
ture to free rise. Once fermentation is complete, add the first dry
hops, then add the second dry hops 5 days later. After 5 more
days, crash to 35°F (2°C), then bottle or keg the beer and carbon-
ate to about 2.25 volumes.
BREWER’S NOTES
Hops: With its complex fruity notes, Callista is a fantastic hop to
showcase in a German IPA. Leaning into this low-alpha but com-
paratively high-beta variety should produce a different, smoother
type of bitterness than you are used to in an IPA. Leaning on
such a hop in quantity means that there will be more vegetal
matter than usual, so we’ve adjusted the initial volume. Leave
that lovely green sludge behind.
Water: Wesseloh recommends a 6:1 ratio of sulfate to chloride
(300ppm SO4, 50ppm Cl) for a flinty, bright bitterness.
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Paint It
NO RESTS FOR THE WICKED

Black
inspired Mitch Steele at Stone Brewing
… and by 2013, it was the trendy style that
every craft brewer had to make. Then it just
kind of disappeared—too soon, we’d argue.
There are still a few around, but not many.
The style was popular out West, too,
morphing into CDA. Partly that was a
pedantic response to the contradiction
in terms—how can an India pale ale be
Once upon a time, the “P” in “IPA” stood for pale. Now, maybe, it stands for black? But it was also a reference to its
“postmodern”—or, in this case, “pitch-black.” Once again helping us to extract popularity in the region and to the gen-
the most characterful beer from extract brewing, Annie Johnson has the erous portions of PNW hops that make
details on Cascadian dark ale, aka American black ale or black IPA. the beer different from porter, stout, or
other dark ales. Cascadia encompasses the
BEER-DRINKING AMERICA LOVES or what the Great American Beer Festival panhandle of Alaska, Oregon, Washing-
its IPAs, and that’s a fact. It makes little dif- guidelines now call American black ale. ton, Idaho, British Columbia, northern
ference whether they’re juicy-hazy or West California and western Montana—also
Coast crisp and clear, we love them for their CDA and Other Acronyms known as Sasquatch country (yes, Bigfoot
hoppy goodness. Whether it’s full of dank, Black IPA—or what we in the great Pacific is real; just ask the folks at Sierra Nevada). 
pungent aromas or tropical hits of citrus Northwest (PNW) call Cascadian dark ale You can call it whatever you want, as
zest—doesn’t matter, just give us our IPA. (CDA)—is really a variation of a standard long as you brew some for us.
But the IPA spectra, as we know, stretch American IPA. The earliest known example
far beyond the pale—far past hazy or West was brewed in 1994 by Glenn Walters and The DNA of the CDA
Coast. Pick your color: We’ve got white, red, legendary brewer and author Greg Noonan Let’s break it down. We’re talking about
brown, black, plus Belgian and rye (hmm, at The Vermont Pub & Brewery. As the sto- a standard-strength (6–7.5 percent ABV),
maybe that whole brut phase is best forgot- ry goes, Noonan’s black IPAs later inspired hop-forward ale that features expressive
ten), not to mention every level of strength Shaun Hill of Hill Farmstead, whose beers hop flavors and aromas—often with pine,
from session to imperial, double, triple …
hopwine, anyone? No doubt more varieties
are on the way, too. Cold IPA is apparently
a thing now—and in this issue, we’ve even
PHOTO: MATT GRAVES/WWW.MGRAVESPHOTO.COM

got Josh Weikert musing on the potential

for German IPA (see page 60).
Confused? Wondering whether “IPA” really
Confused? Wondering whether “IPA” re- means anything if it means everything? Hey,
ally means anything if it means everything?
Hey, welcome to craft beer in 2021. Also,
welcome to craft beer in 2021. Also, fear not:
fear not: For now, we’re focusing on one of For now, we’re focusing on one of the most
the most underappreciated, loved-but-then-
forgotten sub-styles—the Cascadian dark underappreciated, loved-but-then-forgotten
ale. (The what?) We’re talking black IPA, sub-styles—the Cascadian dark ale.
64 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
BEERANDBREWING.COM | 65
| BRIGHT & JUICY & BITTER & SOFT |

A base of pale dry or liquid MAKE IT

malt extract plus a few dark
malts and some expressive, To Cascadia!
pine-forward hops will make American
your inner Sasquatch happy.
Black Ale
Here is an old-school Cascadian dark ale that embraces piney
Chinook hops in Sasquatchian proportions. Don’t worry
about the IBUs—this should end up relatively balanced, with
citrus, stone-fruit, and resinous-dank notes. Could enough malt and hop flavors and aroma to provide depth for
you use something more tropical? Sure, but for the bitterness.
Cascadian authenticity, you should stick with the
classics—Cascade, Centennial, Citra, and so PARTIAL-MASH
on. My personal favorite is Chinook, which
can deliver a potent yet smooth bitterness. Batch size: 5 gallons (19 liters)
Chinook’s aroma tends toward pine, with Brewhouse efficiency: 72%
some milder spiciness and fruitiness. This is a OG: 1.070
hop that shines in a CDA. (Fun fact: Besides being FG: 1.017
the name of an indigenous people there, Chinook also is the name IBUs: 100+
for a trade jargon that was the former lingua franca of Cascadia.) ABV: 7.2%
Colorwise, it’s all in the name—black. People often compare
this style to American stout. What sets black IPA apart is the use MALT/GRAIN BILL
of debittered roast malts such a Weyermann Carafa, Briess 8 lb (3.6 kg) Briess Golden Light dry malt extract (DME)
Blackprinz, or Briess Midnight Wheat to get that color 1 lb (454 g) Briess Munich DME
(and some flavor) without any harsh or burnt qualities. 12 oz (340 g) crystal 10L
For an American stout, we would want some of those 8 oz (227 g) Weyermann Carafa Special I
roast coffee or dark chocolate flavors, but we ease up 4 oz (113 g) chocolate malt
on those here. But we want that color—deep, dark 4 oz (113 g) Briess Midnight Wheat
brown to almost jet black.
Otherwise, there should be enough malty middle HOPS & ADDITIONS SCHEDULE
to balance out that hop bitterness—but it should also 1.25 oz (35 g) Chinook at 60 minutes [48 IBUs]
be well attenuated, for a dry finish. The mouthfeel 2 oz (57 g) Chinook at 20 minutes [47 IBUs]
shouldn’t be heavy, either—closer to medium or even 1 tablet Whirlfloc at 20 minutes
medium-light. 1 tsp (5 ml) yeast nutrient at 10 minutes
And guess what? This is a beer wonderfully suited 2 oz (57 g) Chinook at 5 minutes [15 IBUs]
for extract or partial-mash brewing. A base of pale dry 2 oz (57 g) Chinook at whirlpool [23 IBUs]
or liquid malt extract plus a few dark malts and some 2 oz (57 g) Chinook at dry hop
expressive, pine-forward hops will make your inner Sasquatch happy.
Pay attention to your water. If your brewing water is on the YEAST
softer side, add a teaspoon of gypsum with the steeping grains. Fermentis SafAle US-05 or similar
Gypsum helps to improve malt-extraction efficiency, balance
hop flavor, and improve wort clarity.  DIRECTIONS
A clean-fermenting American ale yeast works well here, allowing Mill the grains and place them in a mesh grain bag. Steep
the malt and hops to shine. Fermentation should be in the mid-60s°F in 1 gallon (3.8 liters) of 152°F (67°C) water for 30 minutes,
(18–19°C)—on the cooler side for ales, to keep those esters in check. then raise the temperature to 168°F (76°C). Remove the bag,
Remember, this a dark IPA—it might exhibit some slight toffee rinse the grains, and add 5 more gallons (19 liters) of water
or roasted malt flavors, but it should never taste ashy or to your kettle, then bring to a boil. Turn off the heat and add
burnt or anything remotely like a dry stout. the DME in batches, being careful not to scorch.
It’s a harmonious balance, where the Return the heat and achieve a rolling boil. Boil
flavor of darker malts is subdued for 60 minutes, adding hops, Whirlfloc, and
and supportive of the hops, not the yeast nutrient according to the schedule. After
dominant flavor of the beer. the boil, stir to create a vortex, add
Still not convinced whirlpool hops, and allow 20 minutes
this is an IPA? To to settle. Chill the wort to 64°F (18°C),
paraphrase the late aerate well, and pitch the yeast. Add dry
Supreme Court hops on day 5 or 6 of fermentation.
Justice Potter When final gravity is reached,
Stewart, who was package and carbonate.
concerned with a
different sort of blas-
phemy: You’ll know it
when you taste it.

66 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


BEER INGREDIENTS
Growing Up
Neomexicanus
These characterful, high-efficiency, drought-resistant hop varieties present both
challenges and opportunities to hop farmers—and to brewers. By Hollie Stephens
LAST SUMMER, I MET the godfather of
neomexicanus at his home in New Mexico.
“They evolved here,” says Todd Bates, who
bred locally foraged wild hops from the
dry mountain terrain to create varieties
PHOTOS: COURTESY CLS FARMS
such as Zappa and Medusa.
Bates says that neomexicanus hops be-
have differently from others. “They don’t
want that much water, they don’t want
that much fertilizer. They’re sensitive to
some chemicals.”
Neomexicanus is a genetically distinct sub-
species of hop plant that has been growing
in the American Southwest for perhaps a
million years. All hops originate from Asia,
but neomexicanus took a different, and much
older, route to get here via early migration.
European landrace hops—namely, Noble
varieties such as Saaz, Tettnang, Fuggles,
and Goldings—are the parents of most of
the hops grown in the United States today.
The lineage of neomexicanus is different.
Zappa hop cones growing at
CLS Farms.
While many of the hops that we enjoy in
our favorite IPAs came out of the USDA
hop-breeding program, the available
neomexicanus varieties had humbler
beginnings—in Bates’ greenhouse. Hop
breeding—growing seeds from male and
female plants—can be an arduous pro-
cess. Bates says that he began by growing
them in five-gallon buckets, 200 or 300
plants at a time. It took time to develop a
winning breeding group, and for a while
he was struggling to breed anything
that turned out better than the parent
plant. He had “two years of having to kill
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| BRIGHT & JUICY & BITTER & SOFT |

everything because nothing was better

than Mom.”
Eventually, though, Bates bred some
winners. He was eager to get them out
into the world, but he also knew that
getting the hops into the hands of brewers
would be challenging. “Brewers have to
like it, and we, the consumers, have to
love it,” he says.
Bates worked with Eric Desmara-
is, owner of CLS Farms, to bring his
neomexicanus hops to a wider audience.
Tom Nielsen, a researcher of flavor and
ingredients at Sierra Nevada Brewing, also
was involved in singling out the Zappa
hop. The brewery has since released
single-hopped neomexicanus beers, includ-
ing a special version of its fresh-hopped
Harvest IPA. The brewery describes its
character: “striking melon and apricot
aromas, as well as a floral undercurrent
and citrus-like flavor.”

Taming a Wild Hop

Based in Washington’s Yakima Valley, CLS
Farms has been growing Zappa and other
neomexicanus varieties commercially for a
few years. Currently, these varieties make
up about 3 percent of their total acreage.
Reid Lundgren, production manager at
CLS Farms, says that there are similarities
in how they approach any new hop. “The
plant and row spacing is the same, trellis is
the same, even though they can be dwarf-
ing, and string density is the same,” he says.
Most of the differences in growing neomex-
icanus hops are on the agronomy side, he
says, citing pests and disease management
as particularly challenging. “Being native to
the Southwest, they are very susceptible to
the European strain of powdery mildew. We
are constantly scouting the fields to monitor
this and help mitigate it. But it’s a battle we
wage throughout the whole growing season.”
For hop farmers, choosing the right win-
dow for picking is key to a great harvest.
It helps to ensure that the hops retain the
same flavors and aromas from one year to
the next. “Typically, we have found later is
a little better for Medusa,” Lundgren says.
“Zappa doesn’t seem to have that issue,
but [it] expresses in fewer, but much larger
and robust cones. It is a bit more like No-
ble hops in its reproductive window and
how it grows up the bine.”
However, he says, neomexicanus hops are
not the most natural climbers, and that
Zappa hop cones growing at CLS Farms.
causes logistical challenges when grown
commercially. “Instead of wanting to go
vertical up the string, they want to crawl
on the ground or really dwarf out when
going up the string,” Lundgren says. “We
theorize that after evolving over thousands
of years in the desert, there just wasn’t
much to climb, so growing in a helix verti-
cally isn’t conducive to their nature.”  [Medusa] goes into reproductive mode, it
Another challenge: They’re not used to the
extra summertime daylight in Yakima, as
compared to northern New Mexico. “Being
a photoperiodic plant, that many changes
can really goof them up,” Lundgren says.
Their Natural Productivity
Neomexicanus hops have some distinct
properties that give them a higher efficien-
cy. For example, a neomexicanus plant will
typically have far fewer leaves than a hop
plant of European lineage. “The ratio of
leaf to flower is vastly different,” Bates says.
While most hop plants have more round-
ed, opaque leaves, neomexicanus leaves are
translucent, with slender, fine fingers sim-
ilar to those on a marijuana plant. There’s
also what Bates calls the “doublet gene.”
For the Medusa variety, this takes the form
of multi-headed hop cones.
The quirks of neomexicanus can be tricky
to manage from a commercial propaga-
tion standpoint, Lundgren says. “Once
seems very hard to turn that off,” he says.
“So, [the hop plants] just keep producing
more and more cones up until harvest
time. Sounds great, but it can create a
little bit of a difference in cone maturity
throughout individual bines.”
Are there reasons for brewers to be
excited about experimenting with neomex-
icanus? Yes, Lundgren says. “They have so
many exciting, unique characteristics that
are very favorable.”
Bates describes them as extremely fruity
with a clean taste. “That doublet gene not
only went to the roots for rhizomes, [but it
also] went to the strig, which is the center

68 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


of the cone,” Bates says of the Zappa
hop. “That’s where all the oils are.”
These hops can be flavorful and in-
tense even in smaller quantities, which
suggests that their natural tendency to-
ward high efficiency can benefit brewers
as well as growers.
However, it isn’t just the flavors that
make these hops special. As the sustain-
able sourcing of raw materials becomes
increasingly important to brewers,
drought-resistant hops such as neomex-
icanus could be game-changers. These
varieties could make it possible for hop
farms to be established in arid climates,
without the need for intensive irrigation.
“If we can learn how to best irrigate
them, it would help a lot in being even
“Instead of wanting to go vertical up the
string, they want to crawl on the ground or
really dwarf out when going up the string.
We theorize that after evolving over
thousands of years in the desert, there just
wasn’t much to climb, so growing in a helix
vertically isn’t conducive to their nature.”  Mill the grains and mash at 152°F (67°C)
more efficient with our water, which
seems to be more and more import-
ant every year,” Lundgren says. “Any
possible ways we can be more efficient,
the better … especially in drought years,
[which] will inevitably show up in some
of the future growing years.”
Naturally, it can be hard for farm-
ers such as Lundgren to adapt their
processes to a plant that is so differ-
ent from those that they are used to
working with. “So far I am too scared
to drought them enough to find their
happy place,” he says. “Irrigation is the
lifeblood of the farm.”
But he enjoys the challenge. “It is still
very much a work in progress,” Lundgren
says. “I learn more and more every year.”
Medusa hop cones.
MAKE IT
Zappa
SMaSH
Session IPA
Courtesy of award-winning homebrew-
er and Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine®
contributor Annie Johnson, this elegant
single-malt, single-hop beer can show off
any hop that interests you—in this case,
Zappa, which can boldly express tropical
fruit, mint, spices, citrus, and pine.
ALL-GRAIN
Batch size: 5 gallons (19 liters)
Brewhouse efficiency: 72%
OG: 1.047
FG: 1.010
IBUs: 38
ABV: 4.9%
MALT/GRAIN
9 lb (4.1 kg) two-row pale
HOPS & ADDITIONS SCHEDULE
0.6 oz (17 g) Zappa at 45 minutes [16 IBUs]
0.7 oz (20 g) Zappa at 15 minutes [10 IBUs]
0.7 oz (20 g) Zappa at 5 minutes [4 IBUs]
1.25 oz (35 g) Zappa at whirlpool [8 IBUs]
1.25 oz (35 g) Zappa at dry hop
YEAST
White Labs WLP001 California Ale
DIRECTIONS
for 60 minutes. Lauter, sparge, and top up
as necessary to get about 6.5 gallons (25
liters) of wort—or more, depending on
your evaporation rate. Boil for 60 minutes,
adding hops according to the schedule.
Conduct a whirlpool: Stir for 5 minutes to
create a vortex, then add whirlpool hops;
allow 20 minutes to settle. Chill to 68°F
(20°C), aerate, and pitch the yeast. Fer-
ment at 70°F (21°C). Add the dry hops af-
ter 4 days of primary fermentation. When
fermentation is complete and gravity has
stabilized, crash, package, and carbonate.
EXTRACT VERSION
Replace the two-row malt with 6.2 lb (2.8
kg) of extra-light dry malt extract (DME).
Bring 5 gallons (19 liters) of water to a
boil, then switch off heat, add DME, and
stir until completely dissolved. Boil for 60
minutes, continuing as above.
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| BRIGHT & JUICY & BITTER & SOFT |
BREWING BIG
Triple IPAs and
Beyond: Battling
Against Nature
Brewing a great triple IPA (or quadruple IPA or …) demands more from you
as a brewer than simply going bigger. The ingredients and their natural ten-
dencies are all against you doing this and making it drinkable—but it can be
done. Drew Beechum has your battle plan, based on advice from the pros.
WE’VE SPILLED COUNTLESS WORDS
over the wherefores, the whys, and the
meanings of the IPA. Lamentations on its
rise, its demise, its history, and more could
fuel an everlasting fire to keep us warm
through a long, discontented winter. But
America’s long love affair with the IPA in
all its evolutions continues unabated, and
it’s been amazing to see new traditions
born right before our pint glasses—new
traditions, such as the triple IPA.
First, a little backstory: The American IPA
is older than most present-day enthusiasts
would imagine. The last standing example
of an earlier tradition was Ballantine IPA,
which survived not only Prohibition but also
multiple ownership changes. This is a beer
that would confound and comfort modern
IPA drinkers: It was big (1.074 OG), it was
bitter (about 60 IBUs), but it was also a dark-
ish amber color, and it aged in oak barrels
for a year. (For more about Ballantine IPA,
see “Ballantine IPA Returns, Perfected by
Homebrewing,” beerandbrewing.com.) As
time went on and the owners kept trying to
squeeze extra pennies from the brand, the
aging time became shorter.
As Ballantine waned, other brewers
picked up the torch—namely, Anchor
(San Francisco) and Bert Grant with the
launches of Liberty IPA and Bert Grant’s
IPA in 1983. Both beers heavily featured
a newfangled hype-hop named Cascade,
which was first grown commercially in
1968 but took a while to catch on.
With the rise of the first craft bubble in
the 1990s, more and more IPAs arrived as
essentially bigger versions of ubiquitous
pale ales. Going bigger is the American
70 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
way, after all—and, as we’ll see, more
biggering was yet to come.
When IPAs Doubled Down
Credit for introducing the double IPA
famously goes to Vinnie Cilurzo, who first
brewed one in 1994 at the Blind Pig brew-
pub in Temecula, California. The style
really hit its stride in 2000 with the release
of Russian River Pliny the Elder. Cilurzo
first brewed Pliny for the Bistro IPA Fes-
tival in Hayward—an event that has had
a massive impact on the development of
West Coast IPA over the past 23 years.
In California, the Bistro’s festival created
an incentive for brewers to get competitive
and break out something special. As the
double IPA style grew in popularity, the
early East Coast/West Coast split—with
the East more malty, the West crisper and
more bitter—grew more distinct. East Coast
double/imperial IPAs such as Dogfish Head
90 Minute or Smuttynose Big A had robust
malt backbones, lending some credence to
naysayers’ arguments that double IPA was
“just another name for barleywine.”
The Bistro fest struck again when it
added a Triple IPA category. Brewers
It’s been a long journey from Ballantine—from
dark and tannic through layered caramel
malts and on to bright, crisp, and pale, or soft
and juicy, or various combinations thereof.
responded, including Cilurzo with a beer
that has maintained its hype ever since its
first release in 2005: Pliny the Younger.
Sixteen years later, its annual release is
a circled date on the calendar, with long
lines at the breweries and (during pan-
demics) crashed computer systems. For
the record: Dogfish Head released its 120
Minute IPA a couple of years earlier, but
that one’s always had some barleywine-ish
leanings. Younger, on the other hand, was
and still is bright, brash, dry, and bitter,
with just a touch of balancing sweetness.
While the hype around hazies has
gained steam in recent years, we tend
to forget that Vermont’s The Alchemist
brewed the original batches of Heady
Topper—the ur-hazy double IPA—in
2004. Later iterations of juicy-hazies have
pushed further into huge hop presence
and softer bitterness—an interesting chal-
lenge for brewers of hazy triple IPA.
It’s been a long journey from Ballan-
tine—from dark and tannic through
layered caramel malts and on to bright,
crisp, and pale, or soft and juicy, or var-
ious combinations thereof. Where once
we tried to burn our palates with hop bit-
terness in the IBU wars, now it’s all about
extracting more of those hop oils to smash
even more aroma into our schnozzes. It’s
been a long, hoppy road—but the journey
continues.
PHOTO: MATT GRAVES/WWW.MGRAVESPHOTO.COM
Building and Brewing a
Triple IPA
Just what the heck makes an IPA into a
triple IPA? For practical reasons, it’s not
just a matter of “more.”
Here is the problem we face as brewers:
As we push the alcohol levels up, drinkers
perceive more sweetness, and the hops lose
efficiency of impact in terms of bitterness
and aroma. So, how do we brew an IPA with
its increased strength and increased hop
presence without—to borrow a phrase from
Jamil Zainasheff, founder of Heretic Brew-
ing—“hopping like you’ve lost your mind”?
Simple: We don’t. In other words, we
have to make a big damn beer that’s dry
and screams hops, even while chemistry
and biology are fighting us all the way.

MALT
We start with strength: Triple IPA original
gravities are in the 1.100 range. The typical
grist starts with 90-plus percent pale or pil-
sner malt. A touch of pale adjunct such as
wheat or dextrin malt can help with foam,
while—to take a cue from the Belgians—
some sugar can kick up that ABV while
helping to keep the body lean. For the hazy
versions, we’d naturally expect some heavi-
er adjuncts such as oats (flaked or malted)
to help fluff up the mouthfeel and bring
the haze. Some commercial brewers are
also borrowing a trick from the short-lived
brut IPA fad, using enzymes in the mash
to drive greater attenuation.

WATER
In water, we see another split in our styles.
Either way, you need to start with clean,
dechlorinated water and ensure that you
have proper acidification. To drive a dry
and bitter West Coast bite, you’ll want to
add a healthy dose of gypsum—at least 75
to 150 ppm. To go softer for a hazy, you
want a higher chloride level—again in the
75 ppm range. Be careful about going too
high on the chloride, lest you end up with
a beer that tastes salty and feels heavy.

HOT-SIDE HOPS
Now to the pivotal point: You’re going to
need more hops than you think. With the
higher gravities, you need increased hop
loads to push aroma and flavor over the
mass of malt and yeast notes—brewing
such a big beer turns up all the dials.
To tackle this challenge, many brewers
turn to better beering through chemistry,
in the form of various concentrated hop
products such as hop extracts and Cryo
Hops. Russian River, for example, uses hop
extract to drive the base bitterness without
adding excessive plant material. The prob-
lem is twofold: Extra hop material absorbs

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 71
 | BRIGHT & JUICY & BITTER & SOFT |

liquid, reducing yield; it also adds more ancillary hop

MAKE IT

Rip Current Hop

flavors and compounds, such as tannins, which distract
from smooth bitterness and pleasant aroma. In the case
of triple IPA, hop extract can be your dear friend.

Wine Quadruple IPA While extract brings the bitterness, you’ll need a ton of
hops for your aroma. In modern hopping protocols, we
see bittering additions of extract and then no hops at all
Rip Current Brewing cofounder Paul Sangster first brewed this over- until the whirlpool. (For the hazy version, you can skip the
the-top IPA in 2014 to celebrate the 20th anniversary of O’Brien’s pub in bittering altogether.) I like using concentrated hop pellets
San Diego. It demands special attention to fermentation to ensure that it such as Cryo Hops or LupoMax once I’ve dropped my
gets dry enough to have that dangerously drinkable West Coast quality. whirlpool temperature to 170°F (77°C). Then I give them
“All the credit for this amazing beer went to the yeast doing their job 20 to 30 minutes to swim and release all those hop oils.
in a crazy-challenging environment,” Sangster says. “If you try this at For a typical five-gallon (19-liter) batch, I recommend at
home, watch things closely, as the beer won’t be great if the FG is much least five ounces of concentrated hops for your whirlpool.
over 1.015. Be ready to re-pitch a starter or top-cropped yeast from anoth- One last note: I’ve noticed that more brewers are
er fermenting beer.” pre-acidifying the whirlpooled wort, to adjust for a rise
in pH induced by the dry hops to come. I first learned
about this from Julian Shrago of Beachwood Brew-
ALL-GRAIN
ing in Los Angeles, and since then I’ve heard more
brewers talking about mild acidification to improve
Batch size: 5 gallons (19 liters) 1 oz (28 g) each Amarillo and Nelson the flavor of heavily dry-hopped beers.
Brewhouse efficiency: 72% Sauvin, and 0.75 oz (21g) Citra at
OG: 1.126 third dry hop YEAST
FG: 1.008 0.75 oz (21 g) each Centennial and This should go without saying: You’re going to need a
IBUs: 150+ Citra at fourth dry hop fair amount of healthy yeast to ferment your big damn
ABV: 16% beer. Make a starter batch. If you’re going West Coast,
YEAST use a clean, neutral strain such as Chico or Califor-
MALT/GRAIN BILL White Labs WLP001 California Ale nia Ale. For hazier versions, London III is a popular
14.6 lb (6.6 kg) two-row choice—or you can go hog wild and harness the power
10 oz (283 g) Carafoam DIRECTIONS of kveik. This makes a lot of sense: Voss and other
9 oz (255 g) acidulated malt Prepare a large yeast starter the day kveiks laugh at gravity and get along well with hops.
9 oz (255 g) caramel 15 before brewing. Mill the grains and With some strains, the orange-like or tropical esters can
7 oz (198 g) white wheat malt mash at 148°F (64°C) for 75 minutes. play right into the flavor profiles we’re trying to capture.
5.5 oz (156 g) caramel 45 Run off into the kettle with first wort (For more about brewing with kveik, see “Brewing with
4.1 lb (1.9 kg) dextrose (in primary) hops, sparging and topping up as Kveik,” beerandbrewing.com.)
necessary to get about 7 gallons (27 Whatever yeast you choose, set the critters up for
HOPS & ADDITIONS SCHEDULE liters) of wort—or more, depending success by setting your temperature in their preferred
2 oz (57 g) Chinook at FWH on your evaporation rate. Boil for 90 range. Kveik like it hot, but otherwise lean on the cooler
[62 IBUs] minutes, adding hops, Whirlfloc, side to avoid any unpleasant fusel alcohols.
1.2 oz (34 g) Citra at 30 minutes and yeast nutrient according to the
[32 IBUs] schedule. Chill to 68°F (20°C), aerate COLD-SIDE HOPS
0.75 oz (21 g) Columbus at 30 well, and pitch the healthy yeast Dry hops require a heavy hand to drive their point
minutes [21 IBUs] starter. Ferment at 68°F (20°C) for 5 home. However, as we’ve learned from research con-
1 tablet Whirlfloc at 15 minutes days, then allow the temperature to ducted by Thomas Shellhammer’s group at Oregon
1.25 oz (35 g) each Galaxy, Nelson rise to 72°F (22°C). Add the dextrose State University, the heaviest hand doesn’t win the
Sauvin, and Simcoe at 10 minutes toward the end of primary fermenta- game. You see diminishing returns after crossing the
[45 IBUs] tion. Add another fresh yeast starter threshold of an ounce per gallon (8 grams per liter).
1 oz (28 g) Columbus at 10 minutes if the fermentation lags. After that, the additional hops can actually remove
[12 IBUs] Once the gravity is low enough bitterness and oils from the finished beer.
1 tsp (5 ml) yeast nutrient at and fermentation is complete, drop The other recent shift is toward shorter dry-hopping
10 minutes to 62°F (17°C) and remove yeast or times. In the earlier days of double and triple IPAs, it
1.25 oz (35 g) each Amarillo and rack into secondary. Add the first was standard practice to leave the dry hops in the beer
Centennial, and 1 oz (28 g) Citra dry hops; after 7 days, remove the for as long as 10 to 14 days. However, recent studies
at flameout first hops and add the second dry show that a shorter dry-hopping time—two to three
1 oz (28 g) each Centennial, Nelson hops. After 7 more days, add the days—pulls most of the hop oil into the beer while help-
Sauvin, and Simcoe; and 0.75 oz third dry hops, then add the fourth ing to avoid extracting tannins that lead to hop burn.
(21 g) Citra at first dry hop dry hops after 4 more days. After Many professional brewers have moved to these shorter
1.25 oz (35 g) Galaxy, 1 oz (28 g) 3 more days—21 days since the dry-hop cycles to promote cleaner hop character.
Centennial, and 0.75 oz (21 g) first dry hop—crash, package, and Brewers rouse their tanks to keep the dry hops
Columbus at second dry hop carbonate to 2.4 volumes. circulating and extracting, rather than falling to the
bottom and clumping together. They typically do this
by either bubbling CO2 through the beer or physically
pumping the tanks. At the homebrew level, you can be
crazy and use a diaphragm pump to do the same—Ci-
lurzo warns against this, saying you could shear the

72 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING

 FIVE ON FIVE:
hop matter and end up with a lot of plant
character. Or you can simply give your
fermentor a gentle swirl.
Hazy IPA
juicy, pillowy—whatever
your adjectives, this is for
sure: These
beer drinkers.
In another change from early days, many Fruit-forward, soft, hazy, -grow ing num ber of
flavor imagination of a still
brewers are also taking advantage of bio- IPAs have captured the ir top picks.
Here, five pros share the
transformation reactions that occur when
hops are in the presence of active yeast.
Vitamin Se a
This complex chemical process transforms
hop compounds and oils into fruitier, more Sea for Yo ur self Brewing in
, founder, Widowmaker
Ryan Lavery
aromatic compounds. If you go this route, ts
Braintree, Massachuset h were
the VSB crew since we bot
the first dry-hop charge typically goes in as “I have been friends with , and it was excitin g to watch
ement
fermentation starts to slow down, after two brewing beers in our bas . The re was a lot of ex-
of mouth
or three days. Often a second load of dry their brand grow by word ned . But when I had my first
ore the y ope
citement even bef lode—
hops goes in, usually without removing the w they were about to exp
first charge, then the beer is racked off the sip of Sea For Yourself, I kne a great hop profile of support-
tures
that beer is for real. It fea difying
hops a few days later. anot) amplifying and mo
ing hops (Amarillo and Eku true VS B signature!”
a pre sen ce— a
the heavy citr
Advice from the Pros
After talking to brewers about the chal-
lenges and best practices of making a Zydeco Brew Werks
great triple IPA—or a quadruple IPA, or Fieldtrip der & president, oun
even a quintuple IPA because MORE!— Latiesha Cook, CEO, cof
r Ku ltur e in St. Pet ers burg, Florida
here are several reoccurring themes: Bee
t I abs olu tely love is Fieldtrip by
▪ Keep your fermentables simple: pale “An IPA tha , Florida. They
rks in Ybo r City
Zydeco Brew We coe and Citra hops,
malt plus sugar, with little to no crystal es, Sim
used everyone’s favorit ute re, and Hallertau
, Mo
malt—Zainasheff at Heretic recom- but also added Cashmere ngos and tanger-
mends no more than 2 to 3 percent of give it not es of juic y ma
Blanc to
e, like it’s name, it takes
your grist. ines. I love this beer becaus
s wit h packed lunch and
▪ Mitch Steele of New Realm Brewing in me back to schoolday
nge juic e. Som e of the best times!”
Atlanta—also the author of the book ora
IPA from Brewers’ Publications—rec-
ommends mashing for two hours
at 148°F (64°C) to ensure a highly erks Juder
WeldWran icy Bitsd brewer,
o, cofoun and hea
Phil Camma
fermentable wort. y in Seattle, Washington
The Good Society Brewer guide-
PHOTOS: COURTESY VITAMIN SEA; MATT GRAVES/WWW.MGRAVESPHOTO.COM; COURTESY WELDWERKS; COURTESY HUMBLE FORAGER; COURTESY HEN HOUSE

▪ You want to drive this beer to dryness. n a trad itio nalist and followed style
Shawn Manriquez of California’s El “I have always bee ion—firm bittering, dry finish,
ept
lines, and IPAs were no exc IPA just
Segundo Brewing—makers of the out- thought of a fruity, hazy
good clarity, etcetera. The t We ldw erk s Juicy
n I had my firs
rageously good Power Plant Triple IPA didn’t appeal to me. The trop ical notes on a soft,
of citrus and
and Nuclear Power Plant Quadruple Bits. The big punch
instant convert.”
IPA—wants his beer to hit 2°P (1.008) to pillowy body made me an
ensure that it’s dry, crisp, and capable of
showcasing hop flavor.
Humble FoDrager RuggOed
▪ Likewise, you want to drive a clean
Outlook D leHIPHoney at
fermentation to help your hops shine.
Cream Trip A
Loads of healthy yeast and oxygen will brewer, Wolf’s Ridge
Chris Davison, head
help prevent a buildup of other “big Ohio
Brewing in Columbus, rd as
beer” yeast characteristics that can dis- d this can from the National Honey Boa
“I receive I haven’t been able
bee r tasting , and
tract from your hops. Manriquez names part of a honey
e. It’s my first experience
acetaldehyde (green apple) in partic- to get it out of my head sinc e to say I’ve never
I hav
ular as an off-flavor that can disguise with Humble Forager and ter
this much honey charac
hops. As you ramp up your alcohol, experienced an IPA with ine, and papaya on the
eet hon ey, jasm
to it before. Sw
you ramp up the difficulty of getting a and pineapple propped up
nose, with flavors of lime
, balanced bitterness.”
clean ferment. When Paul Sangster of by a pillowy body and firm
Rip Current in San Marcos, California,
brewed his Hop Wine Quadruple IPA,
he lost sleep while stressing about that
Big Chicrke n
Hen Houskise
fermentation.
▪ Every brewer emphasizes the value of d brewer, Ou Mutual Friend
Jan Chodkow, hea
high-quality hops. Make sure your hops Brewing in Denver and
wing makes Big Chicken,
are in good condition—and if they’re “Every year Hen House Bre s. This year’s batch was
out do thems elve
not, don’t use them. Pivot to other hops every year they Zappa
imea, Strata, Simcoe, and
or just brew a Belgian tripel instead. incredible, brewed with Wa aromas , so soft and drinkable
ical
▪ One last thing: Don’t age these beers! hops. Huge berry and trop
Drink ’em fresh. But you knew that even at 10 percent ABV.”
already, right?

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 73
| BRIGHT & JUICY & BITTER & SOFT |
BREWER’S PERSPECTIVE
Blending Hops for
Higher Impact
Matt Brynildson, brewmaster at Firestone Walker in Paso Robles,
California, lays out the brewery’s methodical approach to blending
hops for elevated flavors and aromas in distinctive IPAs.
AT FIRESTONE WALKER, WE’VE
become something of a “blending house”
when it comes to hops, with beers such
as Luponic Distortion and Mind Haze
featuring blends of up to seven different
cultivars on the dry-hopping side.
It’s truly amazing how hops can inter-
play with each other—as complements or
amplifiers of flavors, or even to create new
flavors through the alchemy of blending.
It’s something I’m very passionate about,
and I’d like to share some insight into
how we go about it.
Boosting the Blends
My fascination with hop blending took off
while visiting hop growers in Europe many
years ago. I was actually hunting down
more traditional hops for our beers. But as
so often happens on these visits, I learned
of new and exciting varieties with which
I hadn’t yet brewed. I was in Germany
selecting hops for our lagers when I was
introduced to Mandarina Bavaria, Hüll
Melon, and Hallertauer Blanc, all released
We’ve developed some simple and effective
ways to test new hops, smell and taste them in
beer, and then do trial blends before we scale
up to production brews.
74 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
by Anton Lutz and the Hüll hop-breeding
team as new fruit-forward “flavor hops.”
We later incorporated two of these hops in
a then-new release, Easy Jack IPA, allowing
us to ride the session IPA wave with our
own unique story and flavor profile.
Mandarina Bavaria and Hüll Mellon—as
their names suggest—deliver delicate
orange, melon, and soft fruity notes
that were very different from the Pacific
Northwest “C-hops” suite of flavors with
which we were so familiar. They seemed
custom-built for a low-ABV, hop-driven,
fresh-and-fruity session beer. The prob-
lem we ran into while formulating the dry
hops was that these hops required some
help in the form of amplification.
We found the perfect complement in Mo-
saic, another new hop at that time, which
provided the needed punch of intensity
that, by itself, was also very different from
the classic C-hops. It possesses tropical
lush notes without the pine. It didn’t
require a big overall percentage in the
blend—and in the end, Easy Jack never
was a Mosaic-driven or even a clearly Mosa-
ic-identifiable beer. But in our daily sensory
panel lineup, it always carried a higher
aromatic hop intensity than a beer such as
Union Jack, yet it kept its distinctive Ger-
man hop aroma. Mission accomplished.
Mixing & Matching
Returning to hop-growing regions each
year has resulted in the inevitable intro-
duction to other batches of experimental
and soon-to-be-released cultivars, each
with something interesting and enticing
to offer. As a production brewery, with a
limit to the number of new beers we can
add to the portfolio, we can’t adopt every
cool new hop that we find.
The answer to this problem came in
the form of a rotational IPA—Luponic
Distortion—where the dry-hop blend
changes multiple times throughout the
year. Luponic Distortion became the
perfect vehicle to brew with experimental
hops and varieties that didn’t hold a place
in the regular lineup. We’ve completed 18
revolutions—that’s 18 different dry-hop
blends—since the beer was first released,
and we’ve learned an incredible amount
about new varieties along the way.
Most importantly, we’ve developed some
simple and effective ways to test new
hops, smell and taste them in beer, and
then do trial blends before we scale up to
production brews. It always starts with
a classic rub-and-sniff test of the poten-
tial hop, ideally in the context of other
hops we know well. Grinding pellets up
and assessing aroma quality—and then
making blends of that ground material on

the table—is the cheap and easy way to get
some basic data collection rolling.
The more we do this, the better we get at
predicting a hop’s performance and how
to estimate its best use in a blend. Once
we have identified hops of interest, we like
to get them into beer to truly understand
their potential. Most of this trial brewing
work is done moving non-dry-hopped
green beer from a selected production
PHOTO: MATT GRAVES/WWW.MGRAVESPHOTO.COM
brew into a series of small-scale, one-barrel
conical mini-fermentors—affectionally
called our “Little MFers.” We can then dry
hop exactly the same base beer with dif-
ferent single hops or blends and taste the
results. We can also send samples of both
the raw hops and finished dry-hopped
beer to our lab for more thorough sensory
work, along with GC-MS profiling (that’s
gas chromatography-mass spectrometry),
which allows us to capture quantifiable
data and compare it over time. This has
resulted in a massive database of vari-
ety-specific hop compounds—a fascinat-
ing subject for another discussion.
Going for Gestalt
As with many other brewers, formulat-
ing a new hoppy beer often starts with
a specific hop of interest. Once you can
identify and qualify the character of that
hop, you can start to build a beer around
it, including a complementary hop blend
to support it. The hot-side hops should
support and complement the dry hops as
well. Using the hop rubs and trial brews,
we can identify the key flavor elements of
the hop, and that sets us up for success.
For example, the soft stone-fruit, peachy
character of Cashmere seems absolutely
perfect for a mid-strength hazy IPA, and it’s
become a key element of our Mind Haze
IPA. When formulating this beer, I loved
the idea of staying away from the ubiquitous
Citra-dominated hazy theme and finding
a new and unique path using Cashmere.
Complementary hops such as Idaho 7 and
El Dorado provided additional soft citrus
and tropical notes, while Azacca delivered
some distinctive pineapple, further sup-
porting the tropical theme. Mandarina and
Melon fit well with this group, reminiscent
of POG juice (passion fruit, orange, guava).
As with Easy Jack, a little Mosaic amplifies
this combination perfectly without bringing
in dank, catty, or mercaptan-like notes—ele-
ments which, for me, ruin a hazy IPA.
Adding hops on the hot side is still an
important part of brewing balanced beers,
in my opinion. So, looping back to the hot
side for a moment, Callista has become a
key hop in our late-boil and whirlpool pro-
gram. It’s a low-alpha aroma cultivar (2–4
percent alpha acids on average) with a trop-
ical passion fruit and peach-like aroma and
a high amount of biotransformation-ready
linalool—a perfect late-hopping package
for a low IBU, aroma-forward hazy beer.
Blending hops, like anything in brewing,
takes time and practice. A fair amount can
be learned through rubbing and smelling
hop samples, whether whole leaf at the time
of selection or pellets just prior to brewing.
Performing small-scale single-hop trials is the
next most powerful tool. (Editor’s note: For
more about trialing hop aroma and flavor, see
“Learning Lab: Hop Flavors and Aromas,”
beerandbrewing.com.) With practice, and
once you have an aroma description lexicon
developed for tracking your results, you’ll
start recognizing complementary flavors
along with workhorse amplifiers, guiding
you to pick the hops that work best together.
Who knows? Maybe you can even brew a
bold, hazy IPA without using Citra.
Note: Firestone Walker is a media partner of
Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine.®
BEERANDBREWING.COM | 75
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As IPA itself has blurred, so have the lines between styles and approaches. Dry with
classic orange and pine notes, yet turbid? Sure. Tropical and juicy but clear? Of course.
For this issue, our blind-tasting panel considered beers across the spectrum of IPA style
and strength, from session IPA through triple IPA and hazy to bright West Coast/
American, with all stops in between. Plus, to balance out all those hops, we offer the
panel’s thoughts on Oktoberfest and Festbier lagers.

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 77

INSIDE CB&B
How We
Taste & Test
Reviewing beer may sound like
a dream job, but our tasting and
review panel takes the role seri-
ously. Composed of professional
brewers, certified Cicerones, and
Beer Judge Certification Program
(BJCP) judges who have all studied,
trained, and been tested on their
ability to discern characteristics
in beer, our panel is independent
and diverse. The panel tastes all
beer blindly—they do not know
what brands and beers they are
tasting until the tasting is complete.
Our goal is to inform you about
the strengths and weaknesses
of these beers as well as their rel-
ative differences (not everyone
has the same taste in beer, so
accurate descriptors are more
valuable than straight numerical
values). The quotes you see
are compiled from the review
panel’s score sheets to give you a
well-rounded picture of the beer.
To add to that snapshot, we also
include a brief review from an
editor, although that editor’s input
does not impact the score.
As our reviewers judge, they
score based on the standard
BJCP components: Aroma (max
12 points), Appearance (max 3
points), Flavor (max 20 points),
Mouthfeel (max 5 points), and
Overall Impression (max 10
points). We’ve listed these individ-
ual component scores, and the
bottom-line number is derived
from adding then doubling these
component scores to produce a
rating on a 100-point scale.
Our judges use the following
scale in valuing scores:
95–100 » Extraordinary
World-class beers of superlative
character and flawless execution
90–94 » Exceptional
Distinguished beers with special
character, style, and flavor
85–89 » Very good
Well-crafted beers with note-
worthy flavor and style
80–84 » Good
Solid, quality, enjoyable beers
Keep one thing in mind as you
read these reviews—your percep-
tion of a beer is more important
than that of our review panel
or editorial staff, and reading
reviews in a magazine (or on the
Web or in a book) is no substitute
for trying the beer yourself.
78 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
TASTED: AMERICAN OR WEST COAST IPA
12 West AleSmith
Brewing Brewing
Super Beaker IPA
93
A RO M A : 10
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 19
MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 10
What the brewer says: “Citra- and
Motueka-hopped, unfiltered tropical IPA.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Light tropical notes of mango and
lemon-lime provide an aromatic greeting.
The flavor grounds the tropics with a mod-
erately strong bitterness that lingers into
a lasting, lime-gilded aftertaste. Moderate
resin and black-pepper hop flavor backed
by lighter fruity peach and mango.”
Green Cheek What our editors thought:
“Zippy citrus in the nose layered with an
Beer It Just
almost dried citrus-tea
Works element. On the palate,
a rich mouthfeel without
100
A RO M A : 12 sweetness, punctuated
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 20
with a thin burst of herb-
MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 10
al hop bitterness that
hits quickly and recedes.
Both East and West.”
What the brewer says: “Cold IPA ABV: 6.8% IBUs: 65
with Mosaic, Ekuanot, and Amarillo.” Loc: Gilbert, AZ
What our reviewers thought:
“Very clean and well-made, with
restrained but effective ingredient 4 Noses ’Bout American
choices. Pours a clear, almost brilliant
yellowish deep straw—very attractive.
Damn Time Solera I Wanna
While not over the top in terms of hop Talk About...
97
aroma and flavor, it does have a solid A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3
bittering punch with a long, dry finish F L AVO R : 19
MOUTHFEEL: 5
and hoppy aftertaste. Medium grassy OV E R A L L : 10
grapefruit and slight piney, both in
aroma and flavor, with no conflicting
malt character—the hops are the star What the brewer says: “West Coast
without being in your face. Hop flavor is IPA with bright, hoppy citrus flavors and
slightly restrained, creating such a nice aromas, and a crisp, assertive bitterness.”
presentation. Quite an approachable IPA What our reviewers thought:
that does not disappoint.” “Enticing citrus-punch nose with grape-
What our editors thought: “Re- fruit, pine, and a light dank resinous
strained lychee-mango nose gives way note. On the palate, it’s round and well
to a brisk and taut tropical bitterness, integrated—softly sweet, softly bitter,
lightly supported by a minimalist body. fluffed out just a bit in the body but not
The balance is there—on the very light heavy. Light dank-citrus hop flavor is
side—and while the quality of bitterness more of a suggestion. Fresh, clean, and a
leans on that tropical edge during the touch earthy.”
sip, glimmers of tropical fruit peek out of What our editors thought:
the sides as it lingers for a light respite. “Warm, toasty orange notes on the nose
Precise without losing its soul and spark.” with a touch of dried-fruit
ABV: 7% IBUs: N/A tea. The sip blends dry
Loc: Orange, CA herbal notes with juicier
citrus for a push-pull
contrast that’s win-win.”
ABV: 7.1% IBUs: 65
Loc: Broomfield, CO
85
A RO M A : 10
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 17
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OV E R A L L : 9
What the brewer says: “Aromas
of grapefruit and tangerine lead into an
abundance of fresh pine and tropical fruit.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Buttery, rich aroma with some tropical-
fruit hops. Light caramel-malt sweetness
mingles with orange marmalade, straw-
berry, and fruit punch–like notes, with a
hint of pine in the background. Caramel
and biscuit-like flavor notes carry the
orange and piney bitterness. Finish is dry
and crisp.”
What our editors
thought: “Soft orange
and pine on the nose,
while the flavor brings
a throwback element of
caramel to the mix for
a nostalgic but classic
feel.”
ABV: 7.25% IBUs: 40
Loc: San Diego, CA
91
A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 18
MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 10
What the brewer says: “IPA dry
hopped with Mosaic.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Peppery tropical-fruit salad, melon, cit-
rus, and pine say, ‘Drink me.’ Dank, earthy,
and a bit vegetal in the aroma, with some
subtle hints of garlic and chives. Sweet
malt supports the peach and strawberry
notes dancing in the background, while
the soft bitterness blurs the line between
juicy and West Coast.”
What our editors thought:
“Powdery stone fruit in the
nose, with a light stone-
fruity sweetness in the
sip. Structured with a zip-
py bitterness that holds
it together and provides
a beautiful foil for the
sweeter fruit notes.”
ABV: 7.4% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Tulsa, OK
Arches Bend Devil’s Breakside Cellarmaker
Brewing Cabbage Brewery Night of the
Simply Sticky Dank IPA Wanderlust Living Dank
87 91 98 97
A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 16 F L AVO R : 18 F L AVO R : 20 F L AVO R : 19
MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 9 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10

What the brewer says: “Citra,
Azacca, and Simcoe hops for some
sticky and dank citrus flavor.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Nose leans tropical, toward pineapple-
banana daiquiri with danker edges.
Lively medium body, nearly fluffy; has the
sweetness to push that tropical-fruit flavor
before a sticky and resinous bitterness
seeps in. That unrelenting bitterness is
challenging, making it feel disjointed.”
What our editors thought:
“Heavily unfiltered, but
not juicy, or sweet; the
soft but present malt,
light bitterness, and pithy
tropical approach is
more focused on tropical
bitterness than fruity
sweetness.”
ABV: 6.5% IBUs: 60
Loc: Hapeville, GA
What the brewer says: “Brewed
with generous amounts of Columbus,
Mosaic, Amarillo, and Simcoe hops.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Peach, melon, and grapefruit notes
mingle with pine in the aroma. Hints of
cucumber and fresh-cut grass along
with a healthy dose of pine in the flavor
create a fresh and clean profile with
nicely distinct bitter, dry finish. Well-
made, old-school, hop-forward IPA.”
What our editors thought: “Dusty
with a prickly-pear fruit
note, cut wood, and pine
forest in the summer.
The flavor leads with a
big and dank bitterness
that edges out any
softer fruit notes. Bold
for the bitter fans.”
ABV: 7% IBUs: 80
Loc: Bend, OR
What the brewer says: “West
Coast IPA with Mosaic, Simcoe, Cascade,
and Summit.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Aroma and flavor echo a tangerine-citrus
note, with hints of fruity apricot lingering
into a clean and bitter finish. Slight grassy
and dank notes add dimension. The linger-
ing finish showcases the excellent choices
and techniques of the brewer.”
What our editors thought: “Bright
citrus notes layer over faint grassy-herbal
ones in the nose, for a soft
approach. The flavor
brings more pungent dank
bitterness—commanding
and gregarious with a
gorgeous cohesion. The
aroma and flavor offer a
one-two punch.”
ABV: 6.2% IBUs: 64
Loc: Portland, OR
What the brewer says: “Hopped
with Citra Incognito, Nelson Sauvin,
Motueka, and Simcoe.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Mango tree in a pine forest. Enticing aro-
ma evokes lemon drops, freshly torn lime
peel, and a piney hit of rosemary. The hop
flavor emerges beautifully on the palate,
given a boost from light malt sweetness
and smooth, even bitterness. Lingering
impression of lemon-lime candy.”
What our editors thought:
“Lemongrass and papaya
on the nose, with a hefty
initial dank hit. Spicy, with
an almost minty quality
that plays against the
sweeter fruit and malt
notes behind it. Beautiful-
ly expressed character.”
ABV: 6.8% IBUs: 95
Loc: San Francisco, CA

Baere Bootstrap Cellar West Dust Bowl

Brewing Brewing Web Foot Tomorrow’s
C3(i)PA Lush Puppy Clear
99 92 89 90
A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 19 F L AVO R : 18 F L AVO R : 18 F L AVO R : 17
MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4
OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 9

What the brewer says: “Our clas-
sic American IPA hopped with Cascade,
Centennial, and Chinook.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Intriguing hop aroma hits some unusual
notes—herbal but candied, with notes
of lime peel. Bright tropical mango and
pineapple with low spicy resin. Medium
body with a pure and judicious malt
sweetness; the bitterness is evident but
nicely restrained.”
What our editors thought:
“Toasted curry, tamarind,
mango, and papaya on
the nose—spicy with a
compelling mix of herbal
and sweet. On the sip,
gentle but present bit-
terness angles perfectly
against the light malt.”
ABV: 6.5% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Denver, CO
What the brewer says: “A great
tropical, citrusy flavor and aroma.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Assertive mix of light citrus and
woodland flowers. The melange of pine,
orange peel, and a bit of dankness in the
aroma are exactly what you’d expect. An
immediate hit of caramel sweetness is
quickly followed by an assertive, but not
aggressive, bitter punch of orange citrus
and cedar-like pine.”
What our editors thought: “Or-
ange color and heavy turbidity suggest
some mash-up of old and new, and it
delivers just that—a bit
of citrus meets tropical
in the nose, with a
constrained, low-key
bitterness.”
ABV: 6.3% IBUs: 40
Loc: Niwot, CO
What the brewer says: “Classic
West Coast–style IPA with Amarillo,
Simcoe, Strata, and Sequoia hops.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Piney, lightly dank, melon, and passion
fruit aromatics deftly set the stage for a
bold, brash flavor profile with equal parts
pine and orange peel. The resinous,
sticky, and bitter finish, with an assertive
dryness, lingers and harmoniously hits
that last resonant chord.”
What our editors thought: “Funky
fruit nose, filtered through
a significant earthiness.
Subtle warm tropical-fruit
notes in the sip—mango
papaya—and a pointy
bitterness with a fruity
tropical edge. Fun without
being heavy-handed.”
ABV: 7% IBUs: 70
Loc: Lafayette, CO
What the brewer says: “Vermont
ale yeast helps accentuate the hops with
passion fruit and pineapple notes.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Citrus notes of lemon, orange, and
tangerine meld with some fresh tropical
notes of passion fruit and pineapple to
create a nose that comes across bright
and lively. Juicy fruit flavor with water-
melon juice, citrus, and berry, but the
bigger body doesn’t allow them to shine.”
What our editors thought:
“Creamy citrus in the nose—orange and
lemon—with a floral blossom note. The
sip dials back typical
West Coast bitterness
just a bit too far, for an
accessible fruit-forward
appeal at the expense of
structure.”
ABV: 7.3% IBUs: 50
Loc: Turlock, CA

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 79
TASTED: AMERICAN OR WEST COAST IPA
Firestone
Walker
Luponic 18
89
A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 16
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OV E R A L L : 10
What the brewer says: “No fruits.
No flavorings. No shortcuts.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Sweet, clear notes of candied orange
peel and lemon drop with fainter
green-dank notes. A firm, quick, and
clean bitterness drives into a dry finish.
Crisp as all-get-out. Some carbonic bite.
Refreshing, clean, addictive, without
being hugely expressive.”
What our editors thought: “Plan-
tain, lime Runts candy, and kiwi notes on
the nose, with a crisp tropical edge. The
flavor feels pedestrian by comparison,
as sharper bright floral
notes layer over tight
carbonation and a
very gentle tropical
bitterness, but no real
fruit to speak of.”
ABV: 5.9% IBUs: 50
Loc: Paso Robles, CA
Fremont Great Lakes
Brewing Ollie Great Lakes
IPA IPA
98
A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 20
MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 10
What the brewer says: “Mango,
guava, and pineapple tropical notes with
citrus, stone fruit, melon, honey, and
light pine.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Citrus, melon, pine, dank, and orange
zest—come and get it! The interplay
between pine notes and citrus character
is accentuated by just enough malt to si-
multaneously support and complement
the bitterness. A bold lupulin statement.”
What our editors thought: “A bit
of sweaty mango and papaya in the nose
with a touch of peppery spice. The sip is
beautifully constructed,
juicy with just the right hit
of bitterness through it.
The result is remarkably
understated for such a
flavorful beer.”
ABV: 7% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Seattle, WA
80 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
Fremont
Brewing
Lush IPA
96
A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 19
MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 10
What the brewer says: “Tropical
hops reminiscent of lime, mango, and
guava.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Nose of lime peel, herbs, and a slight
savory note—but also zesty, pithy. Nicely
rounded flavor—great bittersweet bal-
ance, and softness—with that hop flavor
emerging as citrus-herbal. Pleasant
bittersweet finish. Medium body, with a
reassuring weight to it. Easy to drink.”
What our editors thought: “A
tropical bouquet from floral blossom to
fruit punctuates the nose with a touch of
nectar sweetness. The sip
pushes lychee and lime
notes with a dialed-back
tropical bitterness that
lets the carbonation and
acidity do the balancing.”
ABV: 7% IBUs: 80
Loc: Seattle, WA
86
A RO M A : 11
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 17
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OV E R A L L : 9
What the brewer says: “A dry-
hopped, easy-drinking American IPA.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Hints of cucumber and orange marma-
lade mingle within the pine and dank
notes to create a compelling aroma. The
sip brings wet grass and malt-soaked
tea, hints of citrus and fruit, and a firm,
enveloping bitterness. A bit thin to deliver
the full package; the mild malt character
and dialed-down intensity temper it a bit
too much.”
What our editors thought: “Very
light—classic with a soft bitterrness and
touch of round mouthfeel.
Citrus and forest notes
in the aroma and flavor
are very light. Minimal
in expression without
sacrificing character.”
ABV: 6.5% IBUs: 50
Loc: Cleveland, OH
Hop Butcher
Destination
Moon
94
A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 19
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OV E R A L L : 10
What the brewer says: “Mosaic-,
Chinook-, and Simcoe-hopped.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Mangos, melons, stone fruit, and
gooseberries, perhaps even a bit of dank
and pine. Bitterness falls somewhere
between IPA coasts. The flavor profile
follows tropical fruit and a light caramel,
with a blast of resinous pine and dank
that carries through to the bitter and
lightly dry finish. Bold and aggressive.”
What our editors thought: “A
bit of guava fruit with an
earthy pineapple back—
the tropical cocktail piece
is evident. On the sip, fruit
notes hang in pitched
relief against a classic
piney backdrop. Modern
with a classic twist.”
ABV: 7.5% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Darien, IL
Incendiary Left Hand
Brewing Wook Bait
Turn the Tide
93
A RO M A : 11
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 18
MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 10
What the brewer says: “West
Coast IPA featuring Cascade, Centennial,
Amarillo, and Columbus dry hops.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Dark berries, rhubarb, and lemon
blossoms. The sip nearly convinces one
is eating lemon-blueberry muffins. Firm
bitterness on the right part of the palate
shows modern IBU restraint, and the dry
finish leaves one wanting another sip.”
What our editors thought:
“Musky tropical spice on
the nose, restrained but
intriguing. The sip push-
es bitterness forward,
gentle and rolling. But
it builds in waves of
tropical herbal spice.”
ABV: 6.3% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Winston Salem, NC
Indeed
Brewing
Flavorwave
87
A RO M A : 10
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 18
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OV E R A L L : 9
What the brewer says: “Delivers with
pineapple, citrus, and stone-fruit aromas
and a rush of fruity, tropical hop flavor.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Bright, fresh tropical hops with subtle
undertones of garlic and dank yield an
aroma that splits the difference between
East and West. The flavor offers a similar
dichotomy as a soft, almost chalky mouth-
feel couples with the dank and dry finish.”
What our editors thought:
“Punchy berry spice with a fruit-tea
element in the nose. The sip leans more
mainstream American, with bits of
orange, tangerine, and
pine forest wrapped in a
lightly hazy package. An
herbal bitterness climbs
into the finish.”
ABV: 6.2% IBUs: 73
Loc: Minneapolis, MN
89
A RO M A : 10
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 17
MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 10
What the brewer says: “A kalei-
doscope of Lotus, Galaxy, and Azacca
hops reveals notes of mango, orange,
cantaloupe, and peach.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Soft, pleasant, lemony aroma with some
spikier grapefruit-punch notes. Lighter
on the palate than expected, lively and
drying, with citrus-pith hop flavor and a
resinous bitterness. Very hop-forward
flavor with low bitterness and a lingering
grassy, citrus note in the finish.”
What our editors thought:
“Coconut-lime on the nose, with a funky
locker-room edge. The sip
leads with a pithy herbal
bitterness that quickly
dissipates into gentle
notes from the nose, with
mild lingering bitterness.”
ABV: 6% IBUs: 37
Loc: Longmont, CO
Mason’s Oskar Blues Pontoon Tuckahoe
Hipster Can-O-Bliss Brewing IPA Brewing New
Apocalypse Resinous or Whatever Old School
96 92 91 90
A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 11
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 19 F L AVO R : 18 F L AVO R : 18 F L AVO R : 18
MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 9

What the brewer says: “A hazy
and juicy showcase for the Idaho 7 hop.”
What our reviewers thought:
“The flavor and aroma have a large
pine component with big pink-grapefruit
juice and slight pithy astringency. A firm
bitterness lingers into a citrusy grape-
fruit-lemon finish. The aroma starts with
moderate tropical guava notes. Strongly
bitter in the West Coast fashion, but
sporting a juicy East Coast hop aroma.”
What our editors thought: “Crisp
and snappy, with a light
body and very light fruit
notes that hint more than
definitively state. The sip
is bitter and tight, but well
constructed—zippy, with
tropical back notes that
don’t dominate the palate.”
ABV: 5.7% IBUs: 20
Loc: Brewer, ME
What the brewer says: “Potent hop
flavor and aroma results from generous
dry hopping.”
What our reviewers thought: “A
lower-than-ideal hop aroma, but it comes
through in the flavor with moderate tropical
fruit. Moderate crystal-malt note presents
with some honey malt and hints of toasted
bread crust. Moderately high fruity notes of
dried apricot, mango, and tangerine domi-
nate the flavor profile with a similar aroma.
Medium bittering lingers into a fruity finish.
Leans toward an East Coast IPA.”
What our editors thought:
“Tropical fruit with a
cotton-candy softness
drives aroma and flavor,
while a concise line of
resin bitterness abuts the
sweeter notes.”
ABV: 7.2% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Longmont, CO
What the brewer says: “Features
Mosaic hops to give piney, tropical, and
citrus notes.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Muted aroma—light pine, pepper, diesel,
along with pineapple and grapefruit.
Resinous hops twine with slightly nutty
malt. Solid toast notes evident with some
warmth. Light peach or apricot ester.
Finish is a touch sweet and caramelly.”
What our editors thought: “Pea-
nut butter with nut and caramel notes in
the nose, topped by a light
orange marmalade. The
sip continues the nutty,
orange thread, with me-
dium bitterness. If there
were an ounce more flab,
it wouldn’t work, but the
lean approach delivers.”
ABV: 7.5% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Sandy Springs, GA
What the brewer says: “Bittered
with Columbus and dry hopped with Cen-
tennial, Cascade, and Falconer’s Flight.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Lingering bitterness isn’t overly aggres-
sive. Both the flavor and aroma have a
moderate green-grape note, while the
malt takes center stage with a toasty
character and some grainy astringency.
The hops are floral, citrus-tangerine, and
slight tropical with notes of papaya.”
What our editors thought:
“Woody stone fruit on the nose—almost
Brett saison-ish. In the sip, herbal bit-
terness and vegetal-lean-
ing citrus notes create
an interesting interplay
of competing high notes,
but it feels top-heavy.”
ABV: 6.5% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Egg Harbor
Township, NJ

MotoSonora pFriem Stone Unsung

Brewing Vic- Family Delicious IPA Brewing
tory or Death Brewers IPA Let It In
93 91 86 88
A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 10 A RO M A : 11
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 18 F L AVO R : 17 F L AVO R : 17 F L AVO R : 18
MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 4
OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 9 OV E R A L L : 9 OV E R A L L : 9

What the brewer says: “Tweaked
with some dryness for the Arizona heat.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Herbal, grassy, and leafy green hop
notes, with a bit of tarragon. Light and
pleasant with no aggressive sulfur notes,
and the malt is pleasantly supportive
without trying to intrude. Bitterness is
firm but doesn’t overpower the dry fruity
aftertaste. Very clean—an outstanding
IPA for the not-yet-jaded hophead.”
What our editors thought:
“Quickly dissipating head opens up with
a generic fruitiness that spans berry,
citrus, and melon backed
with a light herbal note. A
burst of herbal bitterness
in the sip falls fast for
a get in, get out quick
drinkability.”
ABV: 6.7% IBUs: 65
Loc: Tucson, AZ
What the brewer says: “Big hops,
huge citrus, and a candy-like malt.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Big hop aroma with a woody, piney,
lightly citrus pith punch. Light POM and
peach—almost a little plum. Flavor has a
big up-front piney-citrus bite that leads
to a crisp, bitter, drying finish. A nice
underlying malt sweetness ties together
the hops and bitterness. Piney, citrusy
hops linger.”
What our editors thought: “Cit-
rus with a distinct floral-blossom note in
the nose, the flavor uses a touch of malt
sweetness to highlight
the citrus notes in the
sip, while the restrained
bitterness recedes.
Crisply modern with a
classic familiarity.”
ABV: 6.8% IBUs: 65
Loc: Hood River, OR
What the brewer says: “Bright,
citrus-forward, and gluten-reduced.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Big grapefruit, orange, and black-pepper
hop flavor. Generally carries an almost
burnt quality. Like a beginner homebrewer’s
IPA, the nose is hoppy but a bit muddled,
leaning toward citrus, with grainy malt
character exacerbating the bitter ag-
gressive bite of the hops into the finish. It’s
drinkable, but not the best nor most subtle
that the brewing arts can produce.”
What our editors thought:
“Heavy on the wooded-forest nose, smaller
flashes of citrus linger on
the margins. The sip push-
es an intense bitterness
that overwhelms every-
thing around it, sacrificing
subtlety and nuance.”
ABV: 7.7% IBUs: 75
Loc: Escondido, CA
What the brewer says: “West
Coast with Enigma and Strata hops.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Loads of garlic, onion, and green
pepper burst out of the aroma with some
undertones of pine and light dankness.
Citrus, melon, pine, and dank bring back
San Diego memories. A brief, initial malty
sweetness is quickly cut by the piney, cit-
rus, and onion-like bitterness, which leads
to a lightly bitter and mouth-coating finish.”
What our editors thought: “Tra-
ditional in its citrus-pine
axis with a hefty herbal
spice. In the sip, a
structure defined more
by zippy carb and less
by intense bitterness
offsets the orange-
caramel sweetness.”
ABV: 6.5% IBUs: 73
Loc: Tustin, CA

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 81
TASTED: AMERICAN OR WEST COAST IPA TASTED: HAZY IPA

Von Ebert Westbound & Bent Water

Nothing Down WC All- Brewing
Noble Stars: Fremont Supercharger
93 89 96
A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 11
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 18 F L AVO R : 16 F L AVO R : 19
MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 9 OV E R A L L : 8 OV E R A L L : 10

What the brewer says: “Nelson
Sauvin, Galaxy, Idaho 7, and Mosaic
hops, and flavors of dank Southern
Hemisphere berries.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Sweet fruit aroma includes pineapple,
mango, and citrus, while sharper notes
of mango peels lie in the background.
Flavor is prickly—citrus peel or oil. Nicely
balanced and clean, it finishes with a light
and bright bittersweet or barnyard linger.”
What our editors thought: “Light
berry in the nose with
low-key stone-fruit notes.
In the sip, a cohesive body
What the brewer says: “Brewed and
dry hopped with Simcoe, El Dorado, Strata.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Fun aroma that hits some more classic
C-hop notes—pine, kind bud, grapefruit—
given a lift by sweeter candied fruits. On
the palate, the malt sweetness draws out
ethereal orange-juice qualities that dissi-
pate into a dry, slightly resinous finish. It’s
brusque, but the memory of that juicy hit is
enough to send you back for another.”
What our editors thought:
“Papaya-habañero nose
hints at a peppery
spice with an earthy
What the brewer says: “Full of
citrus and tropical fruit flavors.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Grapefruit, passion fruit, peach, and low
pine and diesel in the background. Touch
of malt sweetness melds with stronger
peach, passion-fruit, and guava hop
flavors and lighter notes of grapefruit
and pineapple. Balanced with lingering
tropical flavors and bitterness. A slight
Roaring chalky hint as it fades.”
What our editors thought: “Peach
Table Brewing with some pointed pineap-
Tuba Solo ple notes in the nose. The
sip is soft and creamy with

99
with integrated bitterness fruit base. Prickly carb A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3
a mild bitterness that al-
F L AVO R : 20
supports spicy berry notes and bitterness push the MOUTHFEEL: 5 lows the gentle fruit notes
OV E R A L L : 10
and a building bitterness pepper note on the sip forward. Very restrained,
that grows with each sip. before settling into a minimal sweetness never
Still, it’s remarkably clean.” gentler finish.” feels like too much.”
ABV: 7.2% IBUs: 58 ABV: 6.8% IBUs: N/A What the brewer says: “Oat- and ABV: 6.5% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Portland, OR Loc: Idaho Springs, CO wheat-forward hazy with 5 pounds per Loc: Lynn, MA
barrel of hops.”
What our reviewers thought:
Wayfinder Wise Man “Big pineapple, lime, and orange aroma Big Grove
Chronokinetic Mountain with light vanilla and soft peach. Nicely
layered solid hop punch of grapefruit,
Easy Eddy
Cold IPA Calling mango, guava, and a light edge of onion

96 89 89
A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 11 and diesel. A burst of hop flavors jumps A RO M A : 11
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 19 F L AVO R : 17 across the palate on the first sip with a F L AVO R : 18
MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 9 joyful energy. Very smooth, no burn. Soft OV E R A L L : 9

malt backbone provides the canvas for

What the brewer says: “Juicy, tropi-
cal, citrus-lemon, mint, and a bit of dank.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Bright and fresh orange, melon, and
tropical fruit, backed with subtle cracker
malt, overlay a distant pine note. Hints at
a juicy-leaning version, but the assertive,
pleasurable bitterness is convincingly
Western. Light dankness creeps in at
the finish. Clean and crisp, it hits all the
notes, even if they’re fleeting.”
What our editors thought: “Soft
tropical-fruit nose with just
a splash of tropical-fruit
funk. Very subtle and re-
strained but with a clever
spicy verve. Beautifully
integrated with playful
and bright tropical fruit
and tropical bitterness.”
ABV: 7.2% IBUs: 61
Loc: Portland, OR
What the brewer says: “Grapefruit,
orange, and a breeze of floral aromatics
presage a robust and hop-forward IPA.”
What our reviewers thought:
“A bit dark for a West Coast IPA, but the
orange, kiwi, and pineapple aroma hints
at New Zealand hops with a hint of guava.
The flavor follows the aroma, with a lower
bitterness dominated by toasty and
slightly grainy malt notes. An easy drinker.”
What our editors thought: “The
nose leads with bright tropical fruit for
a new-school feel, and
the sip follows through
with dry but convincing
tropical notes and a soft
tropical bitterness. Lean
and light, with a compel-
ling tropical crispness.”
ABV: 6.6% IBUs: 82
Loc: Winston-Salem, NC
the citrus and spicy hop flavors to shine
and flow into the balanced finish. Easily
begs you to take another sip and then
order another one.”
What our editors thought: “Soft
stone fruit with a peppy floral-blossom
note. The sip blends tropical, stone fruit,
and earthy with a significant sweetness
that still doesn’t feel cloying. Finishes soft.”
ABV: 7% IBUs: 35
Loc: Lake Zurich, IL
What the brewer says: “Our juicy
IPA with Simcoe and Mosaic.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Diesel, cucumber, and orange blossom
with light pine. Mild hop flavor to match—
tropical mango, peach, and floral with
a certain elegance. Finishes dry while
light floral and tropical hop flavors linger
awhile. Mild and refreshing.”
What our editors thought:
“Bright and airy, with soft guava notes
and a touch of tropical bitterness. The
sip leans to the sweet side, with marsh-
mallow notes spotlighting the softer
tropical fruit. A touch
light on bitterness with a
distinct fruit bias.”
ABV: 6% IBUs: 35
Loc: Iowa City, IA

82 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING

BreWskey
Strateka
90
A RO M A : 11
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 18
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OV E R A L L : 10
What the brewer says: “Hazy IPA
double dry-hopped with Strata, Eureka,
and Citra hops.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Pine and earthy hop aromatics balanced
by tropical and stone-fruit notes of passion
fruit, nectarine, and lemon. Tropical cat-
box aroma with some earthy funk in the
background. The fruit notes come through
much more in the flavor, complemented by
a hefty malt sweetness.”
What our editors thought: “Pink
grapefruit and pink lemon-
ade on the nose, subtle,
with a sip that leans on
pithy grapefruit bitterness
to balance out the sweeter
notes. Balanced and
present, it’s neither too
much nor too little.”
ABV: 7.2% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Montreal, Quebec
Brooklyn
Brewery
Pulp Art
85
A RO M A : 11
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 17
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OV E R A L L : 9
What the brewer says: “Billboard-
sized notes of bright tropical fruit and a
refreshingly soft finish.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Big crystal malt notes in the aroma; this
beer does not know what it wants to be.
It drinks like a classic West Coast IPA with
big malt backbone, heaps of pine hop
flavor, and a touch of citrus on the back.”
What our editors thought: “A
throwback nose with caramel malt
notes, a bit of dried orange, and some
earthier notes. The sip feels a bit like
hazy IPA viewed through a 1990s IPA
kaleidoscope, with light
sweeter notes but a big
grainy malt component
and surprisingly earthy
bitterness.”
ABV: 6.5% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
Ghostfish It
Came from
the Haze
87
A RO M A : 9
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 18
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OV E R A L L : 10
What the brewer says: “This juicy
gem elicits tropical-fruit, citrus, floral,
and pine aromas, with subtle notes of
melon, strawberry, and dark fruits.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Nose is pleasantly tropical up front with
an unexpected dank, resinous note in the
taste. Honeydew melon aromatics with a
little background cut grass. Soft mineral
quality allows hop flavors to linger pleas-
antly. Hazy beer, but head is nonexistent.”
What our editors thought:
“Punchy floral notes and
a touch of bubblegum
on the nose. In the sip,
an edge of tropical bit-
terness runs through, but
it lacks the sweetness to
sell some of the fruitier
elements.”
ABV: 6% IBUs: 33
Loc: Seattle, WA
High Nine
Hop Glop
89
A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 17
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OV E R A L L : 10
What the brewer says: “Bright,
citrus- and stone-fruit-forward hazy IPA.”
What our reviewers thought:
“The aroma is a diverse spread of
tropical fruit, from mango to papaya
to orange. Smooth, sweet orange juice
muddled with pineapple and mango
in the flavor lends a clean and bright
sharpness to the finish.”
What our editors thought: “Sub-
stantial mango-orange nose drops into
a slightly thinner-than-expected taste,
with a freshly squeezed
fruit-juice sweetness.
A pleasant citrus bit-
terness runs alongside
with a tight edge, quickly
resolving the finish to
dry. Excessive nose and
an austere sip.”
ABV: 6.5% IBUs: 20
Loc: Deep River, CT
Jackie O’s King Harbor
Brewery Between the
Close But Far Devil and ...
87
A RO M A : 9
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 18
MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 10
What the brewer says: “Bright cit-
rus and honeydew tones from carefully
selected Citra, Centennial, and Simcoe.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Nose like a candy necklace or Sweet-
Tarts—fruity, sure, but also sugary and
chalky. The flavor brings the juice—Ha-
waiian Punch and grapefruit—with a
light acidity that helps to push the juicy
quality alongside fair sweetness and soft
bitterness. Finishes just off-dry.”
What our editors thought:
“Yuzu and satsuma aroma with faint
herbal and floral notes behind it. Friendly
tropical bitterness on
the sip, but a murkiness
obscures the brighter
fruit notes.”
ABV: 6.5% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Athens, OH
Jagged Kros Strain
Mountain Fairy Nectar
Sunlight Basin
91
A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 18
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OV E R A L L : 10
What the brewer says: “Strata,
Galaxy, and Idaho 7. Huge notes of straw-
berry shortcake, melon, and pineapple.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Passion fruit, grapefruit, and orange
citrus notes in the aroma balanced by
a hint of pine. The citrus notes come
through in the flavor, but are quickly
tempered by a cedar-like woodiness that
carries through to the finish.”
What our editors thought: “The
deep gold color suggests a malt heft
that doesn’t materialize.
Instead, a bright herbal
spiciness plays against
pineapple notes with
a tight and well-struc-
tured bitterness. Lively
and light on the tongue
with a dynamic energy.”
ABV: 7.4% IBUs: 20
Loc: Denver, CO
96
A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 19
MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 10
What the brewer says: “Centennial,
Citra, and Mosaic.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Coconut hop profile sideswipes right up
next to citrus pith both in the nose and
flavor. Beautiful and pillowy soft body;
delicate sweetness underlies a mix of
tropical hop character. Understated, but
very well crafted and balanced.”
What our editors thought:
“Orange-lime on the nose, nicely struc-
tured, with a light herbal bitterness. The
sip pushes into the sweet
realm, but counters with
enough pithy bitterness to
keep it from overwhelming.
Pineapple smoothie in the
sip, with earthy bitterness
grounding the more
intense sweet notes.”
ABV: 7% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Redondo Beach, CA
89
A RO M A : 11
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 18
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OV E R A L L : 9
What the brewer says: “Aromatic
hops and notes of grapefruit, mango,
and tropical goodness.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Deep, brilliant orange hazy glow. Inviting
orange-juice and tropical-fruit aromas.
Soft mouthfeel with strong hop flavors—
generally diesel, with pepper and solid
notes of grapefruit and orange peel. A
touch of hop burn toward the finish with
pleasant orange-juice notes.”
What our editors thought: “Dank
nose with elements of old pineapple. Zippy
and light, with a dialed-back intensity. The
sip is easy—moderately
sweet, to pull out fruit
character without weigh-
ing it down. Restrained
bitterness is enough to
balance things out.”
ABV: 6.2% IBUs: 62
Loc: LaVista, NE
BEERANDBREWING.COM | 83
TASTED: HAZY IPA

Lakefront MadeWest New Holland Platform

Brewery Brewery Brewing Beer Haze
Hazy Rabbit Hazy Hazy River Jude
94 98 86 96
A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 10 A RO M A : 11
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 18 F L AVO R : 20 F L AVO R : 18 F L AVO R : 20
MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 9 OV E R A L L : 10

What the brewer says: “Heaps
of late-boil Idaho 7, Mosaic, and Citra
saturate every juicy swig.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Huge dank and resin in the aroma. A
brutal mingling of fruit and bitter hop
notes that somehow just works in the
taste. Semibitter finish. Mango, orange
juice, and pineapple duke it out
with the malt sweetness and
pine-resin qualities.”
What our editors
thought: “Woody, funky
tropical notes in the nose,
but dialed back with subtle
restraint. In the sip, light
malt and fleshy papaya
provide heft, but it’s slightly
dulled by a broadly sprawl-
ing bitterness.”
ABV: 6.8% IBUs: 33
Loc: Milwaukee, WI
What the brewer says: “Hazy
IPA featuring Mosaic, Citra, and Simcoe
hops.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Vibrant aromas leap from the glass—
layers of mango, orange peel, and
spices. Judiciously employs non-juicy
hops with diesel, dank, resin, and garlic
elements to balance sweeter notes. Soft
yet firm malt lets the tropical hop flavors
shine. Lush and explosive finish. Well-
struck balance of malt and hop flavors.”
What our editors
thought: “Funky trop-
ical-candy nose with an
almost perfumy bloom.
Sip is full but dry, clean,
and direct—drinkable,
with a nice bitter element
to balance.”
ABV: 7% IBUs: 35
Loc: Ventura, CA
What the brewer says: “Smooth and
juicy, brewed with 100 percent Citra hops. ...
A beautiful hazy-golden appearance.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Light spicy nose, reminiscent of a Bel-
gian pale ale with grass, geranium, and
pepper qualities. Rounded body, fairly
sweet mid-palate, which gives it a some-
what heavy impression. Missing definition
throughout; the pieces to the puzzle are
there but do not come together.”
What our editors thought:
“A nondescript nose leads to gentle
peach-banana in the sip, with an almost
baby food–like mealy
element. A lingering
earthy pineapple
bitterness marks the
finish, but it’s tame at
best.”
ABV: 5.9% IBUs: 25
Loc: Holland, MI
What the brewer says: “Brewed
with Simcoe and Michigan Chinook, this
haze-filled wonder is a pineapple bomb.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Not as tropical as many, but pleasant
light strawberry with hints of toasted
malt up front. Creamy mouthfeel with a
fantastic balanced finish of light malt
sweetness and citrus. Not delicate, but
it has a layered, complex character that
belies the low gravity.”
What our editors thought: “Hefty
fruit-puree note in the
nose, with bits of orange
blossom, lime leaf, and
apricot. The body feels
heavy and slightly dulled,
with an almost orange-
soda element atop a bit
of earthy grain.”
ABV: 6% IBUs: 35
Loc: Cleveland, OH

Liquid Moksa Perennial Pondaseta

Mechanics Brewing Visions: Brewing
Jiggle Juice Nebulosity Piña Colada Pyrite V.6
94 92 92 95
A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 20 F L AVO R : 18 F L AVO R : 18 F L AVO R : 19
MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10

What the brewer says: “Citrus- What the brewer says: “Brewed What the brewer says: “Hazy IPA What the brewer says: “Features
forward with layers of tropical juice, with over 5.5 pounds per barrel of with pineapple and coconut, hopped with El Dorado hops for a huge hit of apricot,
pineapple, and peach skins.” hand-selected Citra, Strata, and Simcoe.” Sabro, Simcoe, and Citra.” green peach, and a little bit of citrus.”
What our reviewers thought: What our reviewers thought: What our reviewers thought: What our reviewers thought:
“Nails the tropical hops, paired with a hint “Tropical aromas of pineapple and “Fresh kiwi in the aroma. Assertive citrus “Orange and pineapple notes with a dis-
of coconut. A bit sweet, but on balance it passion fruit play off citrus notes of notes in the taste—orange, lemon— tinct, classic Madagascar-vanilla aroma.
works. Tasty and safe—an absolute dive orange and lemon with a healthy dose along with pineapple and spicy, overripe Has a story to it—a beginning, middle,
into sweet orange marmalade. Slight hop of pine. The soft body showcases the mango. Some bitterness, but balance is and end in the flavor. Sweet malt in the
burn combines with a lower bitterness to interplay between the sweet tropical and toward the sweet end. Smooth, honeyed front, then fruit in the middle (melon,
cut through the the sweetness and a bit citrus-fruit notes with a hint of melon.” middle and a quick finish on the dry side. pineapple, citrus) with a resin-and-dank
of alcohol warmth.” What our editors thought: “Very Fun and different. Creative.” finish. Just enough malt balance and
What our editors pale, with toasted orange peel and What our editors thought: “Light creaminess to bring it all together in a
thought: “Stone- papaya in the nose. On woody notes with bamboo harmonious way.”
fruit and sweaty the tongue, it’s pillowy, shoot and faint tropical What our editors
tropical nose. Tropical with a sneaky herbal fruit. Sip whirls together thought: “Orange-
bitterness—zesty bitterness that gives sweetish tropical fruit blossom aroma with
with a bit of zip—with way to bigger sweet and with that soft bamboo unsweet bitter citrus and
stone-fruit and pine- tangy papaya notes. note for a curiously pineapple juice in the
apple notes. Sweet but Bright, and easy to keep earthy gestalt.” sip. A prickly carb but
not too sweet.” drinking.” ABV: 7% IBUs: N/A pleasantly light body.”
ABV: 6.8% IBUs: 50 ABV: 7% IBUs: N/A Loc: St. Louis, MO ABV: 7.2% IBUs: 42
Loc: Lafayette, CO Loc: Rocklin, CA Loc: Amarillo, TX

84 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING

Reuben’s Starr Hill Triple Two Roads
Brews Crush Ramble On Crossing Citra Cloud
Cancer Juicy IPA Triangles Sourced
90 93 95 87
A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 11
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 19 F L AVO R : 19 F L AVO R : 18 F L AVO R : 17
MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 9 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 9

What the brewer says: “A portion
of proceeds from sales will be donated
to Pacific Northwest cancer research
nonprofits.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Beautiful, lasting, creamy head, though
that masks the aroma to a certain extent—
comes across vaguely tropical with freshly
squeezed orange-juice notes. A bit over the
top on the mineral softness, leaving a flat
impression that lingers on the tongue.”
What our editors thought:
“Fresh tangerine slice and
a bit of Meyer lemon in the
nose—bright and cheery.
The sip is tight, but a
touch thin and rather
dry, lending the light
bitterness a touch of extra
prickliness.”
ABV: 6% IBUs: 47
Loc: Seattle, WA
What the brewer says: “Lush
tropical-fruit aromas of juicy grapefruit,
pineapple, and citrus.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Citrus, banana, mango, and guava up
front in the aroma, with pine in the back-
ground. Taste combines bitter and fruity
flavors balanced with malt sweetness
and a pungent sweet, sticky, resiny hops
element. Definitely on the sweeter side,
but really well executed.”
What our editors thought: “Or-
ange blossom, citrus, and a light honey
note in the nose. The sip is soft
and sweet, with only a
faint fruity bitterness off
in the background.”
ABV: 7% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Crozet, VA
What the brewer says: “We taste
mango, sweet orange zest, soft melon,
and delicate apricot.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Meringue-like nose, with notes of soft,
sweet lemon curd, vanilla, and weed—in
fact, it smells just like a THC-infused edible.
Sweetish flavor, near-creamy mouthfeel,
low bitterness, but then it dries out nicely.
Just a bit of alcoholic warmth.”
What our editors thought:
“Orange and funky tropical sulfur notes in
equal measure for a bal-
anced but intense aroma.
The flavor is more subtle
than the nose suggests,
dropping into unsweet or-
ange juice with a rounded
bitterness that’s strong for
the genre.”
ABV: 6% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Richmond, VA
What the brewer says: “Intense
citrus juiciness balanced with a soft malt
core that ‘puts you on Cloud Nine!’”
What our reviewers thought:
“Moderate lime and lemongrass aroma
with light apricot ester. Very subdued
bitterness, but lots of hop flavor—lime
zest, grapefruit. The lemony hops skirt
close to oily, and the flavor pushes a hair
closer, but it’s softened by bready malt.”
What our editors thought: “Soft
stone fruit finds structure from a floral
note in the nose. The sip is light—very
light—with gentle pale malt notes
through the middle. Just
a bit too sweet for a
beer this light, but fruit
notes keep it fun.”
ABV: 6.5% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Stratford, CT

Roaring The Virginia Twin Barns Unsung

Table Beer Company Palmer’s Brewing
Wave Snap Free Verse Town NEIPA Invisibility
94 89 94 93
A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 19 F L AVO R : 19 F L AVO R : 19 F L AVO R : 19
MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 9

What the brewer says: “East and
West Coast vibes come together in an IPA
packed with juicy, oily hop goodness.”
What our reviewers thought:
“On taste alone it’s more West than East,
but the aroma brings fruity notes of
melon and cantaloupe and a big dose of
grassy pineapple. Coconut softens the
good pop of hop bitterness in the flavor.
You keep coming back to taste this one
to see what else you can find.”
What our editors thought: “Zippy
herbal nose with pithy
fruit. The sip is punchy
and energetic with sub-
tle fruit notes and bigger
dank herbal notes. Nicely
balanced away from
sweet.”
ABV: 6.4% IBUs: 70
Loc: Lake Zurich, IL
What the brewer says: “Juicy,
tropical, and unfiltered IPA … Azacca and
Chinook hops.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Apples and cherries on the nose, a little
bit of light tobacco. Sweet citrus and
guava dominate the flavor, supported by
malt balanced with honeyed, caramel
sweetness that lingers into the finish
and plays off the lasting bitterness. But
it feels like we’re on the back side of the
movie screen, attempting to decipher
what is playing on the front.”
What our editors thought:
“Murky fruit cocktail in
the nose. The flavor
breaks stride with a
minty anise bitterness
in the sip that pushes
just a hair too far.”
ABV: 6.8% IBUs: 77
Loc: Williamsburg, VA
What the brewer says: “Brewed
with Citra, Amarillo, and Mosaic hops.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Fresh lime zest jumps from the glass,
with notes of orange peeking through.
Light resin, low catty and dank notes. Soft
body with elegant layers of citrus and
tropical-fruit notes in the flavor. Finishes
dry. Moderate bitterness lingers awhile.”
What our editors thought: “Sub-
tle stone fruit, soft peach, and a bit of
cream on the nose with faint tropical hits.
The sip strikes a casual
middle ground between
sweet body and light
crisp bitterness, with
just a bit of tropical fruit
as it lingers. Simple and
accessible.”
ABV: 6% IBUs: 25
Loc: Meredith, NH
What the brewer says: “Hazy IPA
with Mosaic, Simcoe, and Ekuanot.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Pineapple and grapefruit nose with a
soft body. The finish is a bit pithy, with dry
grassy notes. Chewy, layered, and rich
without coming across as sweet. It’s like
cracking a fresh hop pellet without any
aromatic or flavor corner to stick it in.”
What our editors thought:
“Sweet and slightly chalky tropical-fruit
intensity in the nose—amped up and ag-
gressive. The sip brings crisp
and peppery tropical fruit
in the body—lightly defined
in a way that keeps it from
feeling too sweet. Smartly
balanced.”
ABV: 6.7% IBUs: 32
Loc: Tustin, CA

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 85
TASTED: AMERICAN OR WEST COAST DIPA

2nd Shift Elevation MadTree

Brewing Art Beer Double Phantom
of Neurosis IPA Forest
91 87 92
A RO M A : 10 A RO M A : 10 A RO M A : 11
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 2 APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 18 F L AVO R : 18 F L AVO R : 19
MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 9 OV E R A L L : 10

What the brewer says: “‘Midcoast’
IPA, a hop sandwich of Simcoe and
Columbus hops.”
What our reviewers thought:
“The nose is dank and earthy, but fairly
muted. Light floral, resin, and pineapple.
Medium malt, high firm bitterness. The
flavor pivots to a dark, resinous pine paired
with a little toasty malt and resin, pepper,
light diesel, and orange or grapefruit citrus.
What the brewer says: “Double IPA
with Strata, Sabro, and Nelson Sauvin.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Hazy for style, with an uncommon touch
of acid in the finish. Aroma is ripe stone
fruit—apricots and peaches—with mod-
erate tropical guava and mango, plus
hints of papaya. Light dank sulfur. Flavor
echoes nose, with overripe peach and
guava, flowery orange zest, light lime
What the brewer says: “Stone
fruit–forward aroma with notes of
tropical fruit and citrus.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Earthy grapefruit with a mild green pep-
per aroma, underlaid with hints of mango
and guava. Muted floral, light catty, and
garlic. The flavor shifts more tropical,
drawing out the guava and adding some
lychee and a wonderful spicy note that

Our Mutual Bitterness builds in the aftertaste.”

What our editors thought: “Big
note. Cotton candy–sweet finish.”
What our editors thought: “Rides
blends well with the light ethanol. Soft,
grounding bitterness lingers.”
Friend Time’s and uncompromising, with the line between American and juicy, What our editors thought: “Juicy

Arrow a nose of pineapple and

cut grass. It’s boisterous
pushing a creamy peach-gummy nose
that continues in the sip.
without the haze, a pineapple-guava
nose blends sweet and

99
A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3
and loud but simultane- Firm bitterness keeps it earthy funk. The bit-
F L AVO R : 20
MOUTHFEEL: 5 ously refined. One foot in from devolving; doesn’t terness hits with a rolling
OV E R A L L : 10
the past, with a winking compromise either wave more than a bite,
nod to the present.” the fruit character or then recedes quickly into
ABV: 7.6% IBUs: 75 bitterness.” a pithy linger.”
What the brewer says: “West Loc: Saint Louis, MO ABV: 8.7% IBUs: 66 ABV: 8% IBUs: 65
Coast IPA brewed with Colorado Malting Loc: Poncha Springs, CO Loc: Cincinnati, OH
Company malt and hopped with Idaho
7, Citra, and Colorado-grown Cascade
hops.” Deep Ellum Highland Melvin
What our reviewers thought:
“Moderate diesel-and-resin hop aroma,
Brewing Brewing Galactic
with light tropical hints and a bit of DreamCrusher High Pines Compass
88 91 90
bready malt. Golden and bright, with a A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 2 APPEARANCE: 3
head that retains well—great body and F L AVO R : 17 F L AVO R : 18 F L AVO R : 18
MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 4
carbonation. In the mouth, the hops OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10

shift more into resinous pine, paired with

a smooth, round, and slowly building
bitterness, while the malt evokes biscuit
and pie crust. The aroma carries through
to the flavor, with rounded garlic and
diesel, resin, light pineapple, and mango
hop flavors, buoyed by a moderate malt
sweetness that keeps things in balance.
Finishes mostly dry, hops in sync with
malt and bitterness, as they carry into
the aftertaste and fade off at just the
right time. Very pleasant.”
What our editors thought: “Crisp
and modern, with a clean malt structure
and bright, bitter tropical-fruit notes—it’s
precise and uncomplicated with a fine
polish. Spicy-herbal mango notes in the
nose offer a toothy but defined edge,
and a strong but very smooth tropically
tinged bitterness provides the perfect
balance without going overboard.”
ABV: 7.7% IBUs: N/A Loc: Denver, CO
What the brewer says: “Citrusy,
piney, floral, and fruity hops.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Fruit punch, orange marmalade,
strawberry jam, and hints of Australian
red licorice create a fruit-forward, yet
complex and compelling aroma. First sip
delivers Juicy Fruit gum and strawberries,
quickly met by a resinous note that tem-
pers any sweetness. Alcohol is drying and
warming, delivering resinous bitterness.”
What our editors thought:
“Tropical caramel notes on the nose feel
classic and contemporary at the same
time. The bitterness is
substantial, but smooth
and integrated for a
surprisingly pleasant
West Coast approach.”
ABV: 9.5% IBUs: 100
Loc: Dallas, TX
What the brewer says: “Citrus and
blueberry hop flavors with a touch of
fresh mountain pine.”
What our reviewers thought:
“A beautiful, clear, deep gold color.
Moderate orange and tangerine notes in
aroma and flavor, with a caramel-malt
sweetness that mildly distracts from the
hops—they would stand out in a paler
example. Somewhat rough and aggres-
sive, with sharp bitterness dominant and
a low but solid hop flavor. Carbonic bite
adds some palate cleansing to offset the
slightly sweet finish.”
What our editors
thought: “Classic in
all the right ways, with
heavy pine hops and big
dose of caramel malt,
yet it stays nimble.”
ABV: 9% IBUs: 65
Loc: Asheville, NC
What the brewer says: “Juicy West
Coast double IPA with Galaxy, Motueka,
and Citra hops.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Sweet, sweaty dankness! Tropical fruit,
citrus, and spicy alcohol are second
chair. Orange peel, lemon, passion fruit,
and strawberry mingle with pine and a
light dankness to create a complex and
inviting nose. Green tea–like bitterness in
the assertively bitter finish.”
What our editors thought: “Juicy
tropical pineapple nose.
Defined body with a fruity
bitterness and green-tea
herbal spice. Embraces
the duality of base and
beauty with an earthy
groove and sweet fruity
melodies.”
ABV: 8% IBUs: 45
Loc: Eureka, MO

86 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING

 TASTED: HAZY DIPA

New Realm Top Rung Alma Mader

Jacked Brewing Breezecatcher
’Squatch HDR #14
94 98 97
A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 17 F L AVO R : 20 F L AVO R : 19
MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10

What the brewer says: “Lotus
and Strata hops for berry, tropical-fruit,
grapefruit, citrus, and cannabis flavors.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Moderate apricot, toasted marshmallow,
guava, and grapefruit aroma with spicy
fennel, lemongrass, and sumac. The
flavors warm up with some ethanol and
bready malt sweetness. Medium-high
rounded bitterness with grapefruit peel,
pepper, and light peach/mango.”
What our editors thought:
“Lightly perfumy floral
notes in the nose with
an orange-blossom
What the brewer says: “Bright
tropical-fruit and citrusy aromas and
flavors with a big bite.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Inviting aroma with complex hops
touching on lemon, berry, and very light
sulfur/dank notes. Moderate grapefruit
and light pine. Dry and quite bitter with
a huge hop-flavor blast of complex
fruitiness. No malt gets in the way of the
hops—savor the long finish and after-
taste. Well-balanced and crisp.”
What our editors
thought: “Bright or-
ange nose with a creamy
What the brewer says: “Dry-hopped
with a magnificent medley of Citra, Mosaic,
Strata, Azacca, and Simcoe.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Big hop nose with juicy notes of grape-
fruit, pineapple, citrus, and a light dank,
grassy note. Fresh-squeezed OJ with
some crushed basil. Creamy, full on the
palate—mouthfeel suggests sweetness
that isn’t quite there. Big character,
New Anthem balanced by turning up all the dials.”
What our editors thought:
Beer Project “Sweaty big tropical
BA’AL notes—guava and
passion fruit—lend it a

99
angle. The sip is big element—deliciously A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3
simultaneously sweet
F L AVO R : 20
but fruit-forward, the enticing. The sip knocks MOUTHFEEL: 5 and stinky nose. The sip
OV E R A L L : 10
alcohol and residual body that down a touch with is smooth and not too
highlighting the floral and a funky and pithy herbal sweet, but not dry, riding
citrus notes.” bitterness.” an ideal line.”
ABV: 9% IBUs: 50 ABV: 8% IBUs: 84 What the brewer says: “Pale and ABV: 8% IBUs: 35
Loc: Atlanta, GA Loc: Lacey, WA a heavy load of malted wheat. Citra and Loc: Kansas City, MO
Loral Cryo. Pineapple and citrus.”
What our reviewers thought:
pFriem Family Uinta Brewing “Dank nose, with low hints of grapefruit Burial A Rather
Brewers Caravan IIPA pith and orange peel popping out of
the glass. Big tropical punch, fruity,
Genuine Expres-
Big IPA with some alcohol heat. Appearance sion of Apathy
89 89 90
A RO M A : 10 A RO M A : 10 is total orange-juice haze. Not over the A RO M A : 11
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 18 F L AVO R : 18 top—balanced sweetness with the fruit F L AVO R : 18
MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 9 OV E R A L L : 10 character and a decent bitter base to OV E R A L L : 9

hold everything together. Complex and

What the brewer says: “With
big tropical flavors like pineapple and
tangerine, it’s more than just right.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Full-bodied and filling, with moderately
low, candy-like, lingering mandarin orange
bitterness in the flavor and aftertaste. Hop
character is lower than expect-
ed, especially for a double IPA.”
What our editors
thought: “Earthy caramel
meets tropical in the mash-
up nose. The sip leads with
a nice crisp bitterness
that isn’t overpowering—
perfectly structured with
classic orange and pine
notes that feel more fresh
than nostalgic.”
ABV: 8.2% IBUs: 77
Loc: Hood River, OR
What the brewer says: “Balances
tropical hops with a hint of pine and
slight yet welcome bitterness.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Light resin, grassy, and garlic/diesel
hop aromas with low orange and peach.
The malt sweetness washes through the
flavor, adding a candied note to the tan-
gerine-meets-pine-forest hops. Finishes
mostly dry, with a bit of hop burn.”
What our editors thought: “Clear,
but the chalky tropical-fruit notes on the
nose share more with hazy IPAs than fel-
low West Coasters. The sip continues the
soft and tropical theme,
with a dialed-back
bitterness and waves of
gentle tropical fruit, but
the net effect is just a bit
too subtle.”
ABV: 8.5% IBUs: 89
Loc: Salt Lake City, UT
rich throughout. Silky mouthfeel all the
way through the finish with that ABV well
hidden in the background.”
What our editors thought: “Spiky
herbal edge to the nose—snappy, with
light funky mango and papaya notes.
The sip is not overly sweet but hints at
some mango sweetness, while a bit of
pithy tropical bitterness provides the foil.
An almost saison-like crispness under-
lies the fruit, not quite Brettanomyces,
but a cutting floral note in that direction.
The definition is impressive, giving up
nothing in drinkability while highlighting
the fruit.”
ABV: 7.9% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Wilmington, NC
What the brewer says: “Made with
lactose, peaches, and Meyer lemons.
Double dry-hopped with Galaxy, Idaho 7,
Wai-iti, and Amarillo Cryo.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Earthy and lightly dank in the aroma,
with notes of orange, lemongrass, lime,
ginger, and a hint of berry. Pleasant grape
and stone-fruit flavors with piney hops
and a light capsicum burn. Warmth and
heft are tempered by the soft mouthfeel.”
What our editors thought:
“Mandarin Kush weedy
nose with a touch of lime
citrus over dank. The sip
softens it, with general
stone-fruit notes and a
broad fruit pectin heft, as
spicy lemon notes punch
through.”
ABV: 8% IBUs: 40
Loc: Asheville, NC

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 87
TASTED: HAZY DIPA

Cerebral Finback Firestone Idle Hands

Urban Brewery Walker Gen-5 Splitter
Sorcery Cat Tails
94 95 92 92
A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 19 F L AVO R : 20 F L AVO R : 19 F L AVO R : 18
MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10

What the brewer says: “Double IPA
collab with Bottle Logic Brewing. Mosaic,
Sultana, El Dorado.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Lemony citrus, grassy, and pine notes with
a subtle hint of impending warmth. Over-
ripe pineapple, nectarine, and clean earth.
Soft, smooth malt body with a light citrus
tartness like fresh lemonade. Alcohol is
evident, but not harsh or aggressive. Very
refreshing and dangerously drinkable.”
What our editors thought:
“Woody tropical fruit with
an herbal-tea jag. The
sip brings bright herbal
bitterness with a tropical
funky note, layered over
rich fruit midtones. Pen-
sive despite its obvious
pleasure.”
ABV: 8% IBUs: 0
Loc: Denver, CO
What the brewer says: “Dry-
hopped with Citra and Kohatu.”
What our reviewers thought:
“The flavor is like drinking a cloud—super
soft, pillowy, lightly marshmallow. Hop
flavors run the gamut from citrus, straw-
berry, and sweet cherry to diesel and
dank. Very soft and inviting mouthfeel.
The assertive sweetness helps elevate
the hops and tropical flavors.”
What our editors thought: “Lock-
er room meets tropical funk in the nose
with a bit of mango and
guava. The sip is sweet
but balanced with a bit
of tropical bitterness
that keeps it in check.
Ambitious, but focused.”
ABV: 9% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Queens, NY
What the brewer says: “Flavors of
canned peach, white grape, pineapple
juice, strawberry Starburst, prickly pear,
and orange.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Cannabis and mango hops in the nose.
Not delicate, but interesting and a bit
unique. Finish is bitter for the style, but
incredibility soft. Not quite West Coast
aggressive, but hearkening to some of
those sensibilities.”
What our editors thought:
“Tropical fruit and spicy
tropical bitterness in
equal measure. Soft but
snappy, sweet guava
but pithy, loose but
well-defined—it’s a study
in delicious tropical
contrast.”
ABV: 8.3% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Paso Robles, CA
What the brewer says: “Softer
mouthfeel with intense tropical fruit and
melon.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Sweet citrus with a distinct alcohol note
and light peppery phenolics. Pineapple juice
flavor, with a light grassy hop note. Also
mango and citrus. A subtle bite on the finish.
Soft on the palate and very well-balanced.
Well put-together; will satisfy juiceheads.”
What our editors thought: “Thick
tropical-fruit notes get a punch of lemon
brightness in the aroma,
while the flavor tilts
toward hefty and sweet
tropical smoothie. A green
fruit bitterness helps keep
the big body in check with
light pepper and warming
alcohol notes.”
ABV: 8.4% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Malden, MA

Finback Firestone Hi-Wire Hazy Mikerphone

Oscillation WalkerDouble & Juicy & Raindrop
025 Mind Haze Hoppy & Fresh Drop-Top
96 95 89 97
A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 20 F L AVO R : 20 F L AVO R : 18 F L AVO R : 20
MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10

What the brewer says: “Rotating
double IPA, dry-hopped with Mosaic,
Simcoe, and Rakau.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Tropical-fruit aroma with peach and plum
notes. Fresh, sweet fruit flavors—lemon,
mango, some pineapple. Crisp light hop
bitterness doesn’t overpower the fruity hop
flavors. The lightly sweet and pillowy-soft
malt body serves as a perfect canvas.”
What our editors thought:
“Strawberry, pineapple, and guava notes
with a creamy texture. It
feels luxurious and indul-
gent yet concise. A bright,
tropically tinted bitterness
and crisp carbonation
keep it lively and help defy
gravity. Delicious or deep,
enjoy it on any level.”
ABV: 8.7% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Queens, NY
What the brewer says: “Original
Mind Haze hops are now joined by Strata,
Sabro, Idaho Gem, Idaho 7, and Motueka.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Compelling nose with notes of bub-
blegum, cotton candy, tangerine, and
orange peel. Soft, elegant, cloud-like
body. Flavors of orange, tangerine, and
grapefruit with just a bit of diesel and
pepper. Finish mostly dry, with a nice
drop off in hop flavor.”
What our editors thought:
“Light tangerine, orange, and general
tropical notes. In the sip, an amorphous,
generally sweet, broadly
fruity character doesn’t
lean on individual hops
for distinct notes, but
blends everything into a
fruit-salad mixing bowl.”
ABV: 8.3% IBUs: 35
Loc: Paso Robles, CA
What the brewer says: “Hopped
with Citra and Strata, lending huge notes
of papaya, tropical passion fruit, berry,
and citrus.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Sweet candy-caramel aroma followed
by orange zest. A clean and mild West
Coast IPA? Very light in fruit and haze,
with a great mouthfeel and clean bitter
finish.”
What our editors thought:
“Passion-fruit popsicle nose, with a
light creaminess and a
dialed-back intensity that
remains vivid. The sip lets
spicy, herbal, tropical
bitterness take the lead
with sweeter notes
receding, but it’s soft and
works well in context.”
ABV: 8% IBUs: 20
Loc: Asheville, NC
What the brewer says: “Double
dry-hopped DIPA with Riwaka and Citra
hops.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Big and extremely juicy, the malt
sweetness, fruit, and bitterness strike a
compelling balance. Huge citrus flavors
with mango and pineapple. Good sticky
hop flavor—papaya and banana jump in
to play with the pulpy orange juice. What
we want out of a West Coast hazy IPA.”
What our editors thought: “Crisp
floral note layered on cit-
rus in the nose, giving it
a clever structure. In the
sip, a soft citrus sweet-
ness plays against some
diesel, tropical-fruit
notes. A tight and classic
herbal bitterness.”
ABV: 8% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Elk Grove Village, IL

88 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING

New Image Prison City Three Taverns WeldWerks
Double Double Riot Down Bringing the Advanced
Double Double Undah Juice: Form. 2 Fluid Dynamics
93 92 95 95
A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 18 F L AVO R : 17 F L AVO R : 19 F L AVO R : 19
MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10

What the brewer says: “Quadruple
dry-hopped double IPA with Simcoe,
Mosaic, and Satus.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Over-the-top hops run from mango to
peach to resin and garlic. Boozy with
some hop burn, it’s rough-and-tumble,
but in the end comes together with great
balance. Sweet through the finish.”
What our editors thought: “Big,
but decently structured and balanced, it
hits hard quickly, with a nose that mixes up
dank weed and light tropi-
cal citrus notes. In the sip,
the same dueling flavors
compete, with tropical
fruit sweetness butting up
against an herbal-weedy
bitterness. Intense on all
fronts but balanced well.”
ABV: 9.5% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Arvada, CO
What the brewer says: “Hopped
with Galaxy, Nelson, and Waimea. Full
bodied with big pineapple, mango notes.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Sweet pineapple and mandarin orange in
the aroma, with low cookie-like malt. Dank
notes and some citrus pith. Flavor is clean
and crisp, with a pleasant orange rind–oil
flavor and hints of bright tomato. Zesty,
somewhat juicy. Finish is well-balanced”
What our editors thought: “Dried
mango on the nose, almost powdery with
a vague sweet-
potato element. On the
sip, mango and pine-
apple collide with an
earthy undertone and a
bit of grilled-pineapple
char. While fruity, it’s
firmly grounded.”
ABV: 8% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Auburn, NY
What the brewer says: “Juice-driven,
intensely full flavored, and soft AF (as fluff).”
What our reviewers thought:
“Aroma of guava, pineapple, lemon, and
nectarine. Complex, vibrant, explosive.
Those aromas carry through into the
flavor, balanced by a light earthy-cedar
note. The body is soft and silky and the
bitterness restrained.”
What our editors thought: “The
creamy tropical and stone-fruit nose
is subtle and smooth, while the sweet
guava-peach sip would
feel cloying if it weren’t
for the light tropical
bitterness and generally
thinner-than-expected
body. Despite the ABV,
a general lightness
prevails.”
ABV: 8% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Decatur, GA
What the brewer says: “Hazy dou-
ble IPA brewed with Sabro and Lotus hops.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Hints of earthy coconut dance over trop-
ical-fruit notes of pineapple, mango, and
orange in the aroma. Complex fruit flavors
vie with marshmallow malt. Lots of fresh
mango, juicy pear, guava, and light lemon.
Soft mouthfeel, but a light warmth.”
What our editors thought:
“Woody and cool tropical nose with hits
of kiwi and dried tropical-
fruit tea. The sip is
creamy and hefty, but
a papaya-like fruit body
with pithy undertones
provides an edge.
Finishes with a crisp
tropical bitterness that
asks for another sip.”
ABV: 8.8% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Greeley, CO

Outer Range Sloop Brewing Wallenpaupack Wolf’s Ridge

I Miss Loud Juicier Bomb Lake Haze #15 Rogue Wave
Taprooms
92 93 98 92
A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 18 F L AVO R : 19 F L AVO R : 20 F L AVO R : 19
MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 4
OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 9

What the brewer says: “Hops:
Mosaic, Styrian Wolf.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Overripe tropical-fruit aromas—some-
what sweaty with light dill, pepper, diesel,
celery seed. Increasing grapefruit and
pineapple as it warms. Strong hop flavor
with an herb-like quality—mint, basil,
garlic—plus light pineapple. Odd and unex-
pected flavors that somehow work well.”
What our editors thought: “Juicy
tropical notes on the nose with a sig-
nificant sweetness, soft
and cloud-like. In the
sip, sweet orange and
tangerine citrus with
an herbal effervescent
citrus bitterness. It’s very
sweet, but endearing
and familiar.”
ABV: 8.3% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Frisco, CO
What the brewer says: “We
packed more hops, more grain, and more
juiciness into this bad boy.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Soft and clean citrus aromas with moder-
ate pine, resin, and lightly catty or sweaty
notes. Shining burst of citrus hop flavors
dance across a well-structured malt base.
Light citrus, grapefruit. Delightful and
pleasurable. Clean bitterness on the finish,
providing the desirable balance of hop
flavor and malt sweetness.”
What our editors
thought: “Really soft
juicy citrus with a touch
of tropical funk. Gentle
and not-too-sweet with
a nice touch of tropical
bitterness for a pleasant
edge.”
ABV: 8% IBUs: N/A
Loc: East Fishkill, NY
What the brewer says: “Brewed with What the brewer says: “Juicy
Mosaic and Sultana hops. Conditioned on citrus zest rides a wave of smooth haze.”
vanilla bean and Black & Brass coffee.” What our reviewers thought:
What our reviewers thought: “Ginger, lime, orange peel, and grapefruit
“Fruity coffee-dominant nose with some notes burst out of the glass. That bright
citrus hidden deep beneath. Refreshing citrus note carries through into the flavor,
chocolate and creamy coffee flavors, balanced by a lightly sweet malt back-
with tropical and citrus hop flavor under- bone. Overall, a well-executed concept,
neath. The sum is more than the parts with restrained additions of special
here—executed to perfection.” ingredients that complement instead of
What our editors thought: “On overwhelm the flavor.”
paper, it sounds terrible, but in practice, What our editors thought:
the tropical fruit-meets- “Pineapple-lime daiquiri
coffee nose is fragrant nose is an uncanny
and alluring, and the match for a frozen
lightly acidic spicy coffee cocktail. A lightly acidic
brings into definition edge helps define those
the soft tropical fruit in fruit notes in the sip,
the body. The result is with some tangy tart
compelling contrast.” snap. Unusual.”
ABV: 8% IBUs: 55 ABV: 8.7% IBUs: 30
Loc: Hawley, PA Loc: Columbus, OH

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 89
TASTED: SESSION IPA
Broad Leaf
Chromatic
Shatter
94
A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 19
MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 10
What the brewer says: “Everyday-
drinking hazy pale ale with Talus, Mosaic,
and Citra.”
What our reviewers thought:
“The nose is an explosion of fruit per-
fume—tangerine, mango, with a touch
of peach. The flavor shifts emphasis
to mango/papaya, accompanied by
a steady and persistent bitterness.
Pleasant perfume note kicks back in on
the retronasal with each swallow.”
What our editors thought:
“Spicy mango nose with sweaty
undertones leads into the punchy
sip. It’s sweet, fruity, and spicy, with a
ratcheted-up intensity in bitterness and
sweetness despite its small size.”
ABV: 5.3% IBUs: 60
Loc: Kentwood, MI
90 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
Hopewell
Brewing
Outside Voice
94
A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 18
MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 10
What the brewer says: “Notes of
dank tropical fruit lead the way, followed
by an undercurrent of citrus zest and
piney bitterness.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Solid pineapple, grapefruit, light garlic,
grassy. Resinous hops with a hint of
refreshing cucumber dominate the
aroma and flavor. Highly drinkable with
a dry finish. The bitterness is clean and
assertive without being heavy-handed.”
What our editors thought:
“Juicy, tropical nose braced by a bitter
tropical edge; the sip comes in soft and
explodes with a rather intense bitterness
that’s unexpected but not unpleasant.”
ABV: 4.8% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Chicago, IL
TASTED: TRIPLE IPA
Great Divide
Brewing
Fastpack IPA
91
A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 18
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OV E R A L L : 9
What the brewer says: “Fruit
cocktail of citrus, peach, and other stone
fruits with lively hints of white wine.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Rich tropical nose with fresh pineapple,
mango, cannabis, and a touch of char-
donnay. Not as soft as many examples
of the style (there’s a rougher grainy note
on the finish and decent bitterness), but it
works really well. Complexity and depth
despite the session label.”
What our editors thought: “Light Vitamin Sea
wheat aroma with faint stone fruit and a Tropical
touch of lime. The sip is
minimal, with a rounded Envy
97
but firm bitterness that A RO M A : 11
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 20
pushes out softer fruit MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 10
notes. Assertively bitter
for a low-ABV beer.”
ABV: 4% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Denver, CO What the brewer says: “Collab
with Civil Society Brewing, hopped with
Citra, Galaxy, Mosaic, BRU-1 Lupomax,
and Citra Lupomax.”
Oskar Blues What our reviewers thought:
Brewery “Orange, pineapple, papaya, and mango
notes (with a touch of strawberry) breeze
Pinner by the nose, while candy-like orange and
92
A RO M A : 12 grapefruit Creamsicle hop flavors sing.
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 18 Velvety and smooth from start to finish;
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OV E R A L L : 10 it could use a touch more bitterness, but
it works as is. A juice bomb of flavor that
finishes smoothly with no burn.”
What the brewer says: “Tropical What our editors thought: “Bold
fruits, citrus juices, pineapple, and spicy and sweet with a chalky tropical angle, it
berry up front in the flavor and aroma.” wraps up light funky tropical notes with
What our reviewers thought: purely pleasurable sweet tropical fruit
“Big tropical fruity aroma of pineapple, in equal measure. Leans sweet with a
guava, fruit punch, and orange, with decided dessert edge.”
underlying tones of pine in a brilliantly ABV: 10% IBUs: N/A
clear beer. A restrained level of lightly Loc: Weymouth, MA
citrus, dank, and piney bitterness. Very
workman-like—not breaking new ground,
but exactly what the drinker expects.”
What our editors thought:
“Peach-candy nose is sweet but not too
sweet, while the flavor balances with
a bright and concise
bitterness perfectly
scaled to the light body.
Feels bigger than its
size, but moves nimbly
into a quick finish.”
ABV: 4.9% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Longmont, CO

Ahnapee Green Cheek Pure Project
Hippie Hoppy Beer Casual Mantra
Hobo Quest
93
A RO M A : 10
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 19
MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 10
What the brewer says: “Features
Talus, Centennial, and Citra hops.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Heavy honeysuckle nose with a light
graininess. Surprisingly clean and bright
despite the big malt in the background.
Heavy hop flavor with a decent burn and
grassy, floral, and earthy notes. Almost
drinks like an orange liqueur
with some of that sticky sweet
citrus and heat. Strong and
aggressively bittered, with a
complex fruity hop profile.”
What our editors
thought: “It conveys its
strength like a weightlifter
at muscle beach, showy
and aggressive, but it
backs up its claims with
smooth definition.”
ABV: 10.25% IBUs: 88
Loc: Suamico, WI
 MORE REVIEWS AT
BEERANDBREWING.COM
95 90
A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 10
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 19 F L AVO R : 18
MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 American Cellarmaker
Solera DIPA Brewing
Is Fun The Glow
What the brewer says: “Hazy triple
IPA with Citra Cryo and Ekuanot Cryo.”
What our reviewers thought:
What the brewer says: “Nelson
Sauvin hops and pressed Sauvignon
Blanc grapes were added.”
90 87
“Ripe tropical-fruit nose with mango pop- What our reviewers thought:
ping, highlighted by dank, skunky, garlic “Restrained nose with hints of wine grape
hops and a minty basil edge. Deep and as it warms, coupled with graham-
juicy tropical hop flavors provide a chorus cracker malt and a whisper of earthy
atop a creamy and sweet foundation. hops. Grape tannins emphasize bit-
Sweet and inviting finish with mango notes terness well without being overbearing.
bleeding through the underlying malt.” Medium hop flavor—resin, woody, floral,
What our editors thought: “Hazy black pepper, garlic. Finishes very dry.” Green Cheek Incendiary
tropical fruit and a honeysuckle floral What our editors thought: “White Beer Among SHIFT:
Many Turquoise
note add a simultaneously wine–grape nose is rollick-
sweet and funky note to
the nose. The sip is big
and rich, tropical with a
ing and playful. Sip gets
down to business with a
firm bitterness softened by
88 91
perfect bitterness that gentle white-grape notes
feels ideally aligned with with a candy edge. Big,
the soft fruity notes in but conveys cleanly with a
the beer.” tightly edited accessibility.”
ABV: 10.3% IBUs: N/A ABV: 10.2% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Orange, CA Loc: San Diego, CA

Metazoa Moksa
Burial Mal- Hop Butcher Woven Water DDH Hoppo- Brewing
contents of Florida Citrus Corporate potamus Hyalineder

Dissonance Commission Water 87 91

89 87 89
A RO M A : 10 A RO M A : 10 A RO M A : 10
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 18 F L AVO R : 18 F L AVO R : 19
MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 4
OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 9 OV E R A L L : 10

What the brewer says: “Double
dry-hopped with loads of hand-selected
Mosaic and Idaho 7, and a dab of Mosaic
Cryo.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Misses the tropical-fruit notes and pushes
What the brewer says: “Simcoe-, What the brewer says: “Triple
Strata-, and NZH-102-hopped, plus blurry IPA brewed with Citra, El Dorado,
Phantasm, triple India pale ale.” and Talus.”
What our reviewers thought: What our reviewers thought:
New Anthem Perennial
“Forest pine and resin notes dominate “Tropical-fruit hops with an underlying A Voice in the DDH Hurry
the aroma at the expense of tropical/ green-tea note. Nose of sweet heat, light Midst On Daylight

an earthy quality with hints of green cof-
fee. Notes of garlic and resin with medium
intensity. Beefy, chewy, but not what I
would expect. Flavor keeps the IBUs down
with the alcohol providing some sweetness
to carry through the high hop profile.”
What our editors thought: “With
boldly earthy hops with
fruity back notes on
the nose, it upsets the
typical flow. The sip pulls
in a bit of saccharine fruit
sweetness, sharp but not
full spectrum.”
ABV: 10% IBUs: 35
Loc: Asheville, NC
91 91
fruit hop character. Flavor falls in line but garlic, and grass. Big, chewy, alcoholic
adds some intense sweetness while a presence adds an aggressive bite to
surprising bitterness adds a layer. More the finish. Rich hop complexity, yet it’s
barleywine character than hazy IPA.” overshadowed by the high gravity. A
What our editors thought: clear triple hiding in a hazy’s body.”
“Quirky—chalky orange-pineapple notes What our editors thought: “Very
in the nose give way to purple cotton light haze, it still pulls those juicy strings
candy, pineapple smooth- with orange and pineapple
ie, and juicy orange in the in the nose and the sip. On
sip. The alcohol heat is the palate, it’s hop wine—
palpable with a slightly big, juicy, fruity, but unapol-
medicinal edge, yet the ogetically alcohol-forward. Single Hill Von Ebert A
Outcross Boat with No
bitterness doesn’t quite In context, it works, with just HBC 586 Name
rise to the occasion.” enough bitterness.”
ABV: 10% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Darien, IL
ABV: 10.5% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Tampa, FL 87 92
BEERANDBREWING.COM | 91
TASTED: FESTBIER

Bierstadt Devils Karbach

Lagerhaus Backbone Brewing Kar-
Oktoberfest O’Fest bachtoberfest
96 92 88
A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 11
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 20 F L AVO R : 19 F L AVO R : 17
MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 9 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 9

What the brewer says: “Oktober-
fest märzen.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Restrained aroma of light, sweet
caramel, and a light zesty quality that
emerges as it warms. The sweetness
continues into the flavor, adding some
complexity of breadcrumb and a hint
of cookie dough. The sweeter profile
can be a polarizing fest interpretation,
What the brewer says: “Inspired
by modern German Oktoberfest bier, it’s
medium-bodied, golden in color, and
tastes smooth, malty, and bready.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Mellow nose of orange-blossom honey
and herbal earthy hops. Very light umami
note. Pleasant, light sweetness with a firm
hand of earthy tobacco-like
bitterness. Medium body and
What the brewer says: “Bavarian-
style märzen, decoction mashed with
Vienna and Munich malts.”
What our reviewers thought:
“The luxurious head grants a freshly
toasted bread aroma. A sip builds on
that impression, adding a light splash
of caramel before subsiding into a drier
cracker finish with a breath of hops. A
bit of alcohol warmth presents the only

Jack’s Abby but gentle honey-like sweetness is fully

integrated with a soft, herbal bitterness.”
fairly lively. Clean, balanced,
and slightly dangerous.”
false note.”
What our editors thought: “Con-
Copper What our editors What our editors cisely focused nose of lightly toasted

Legend thought: “Gorgeous

copper color draws you
thought: “A helles construc-
tion with the malt turned up,
bread with sweet Maillard undertones
beneath it. The sip is a

99
A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3
right in. Caramel and it offers familiar Noble floral touch more crisp than
F L AVO R : 20
MOUTHFEEL: 5 crisp toast on the nose. hop notes—citrus blossom, most, boxing the nutty,
OV E R A L L : 10
Maintains a structured, dried orange peel—before bready malt into a beer
austere approach to diving into a sip that’s bold that’s easy in, then easy
bready malt.” yet highly refined.” out.”
What the brewer says: “Celebrate ABV: 5.6% IBUs: N/A ABV: 5.9% IBUs: 22 ABV: 5.5% IBUs: 25
Octoberfest with this malty, smooth, Loc: Denver, CO Loc: Lexington, VA Loc: Houston, TX
and exceedingly drinkable lager. Copper
Legend is the perfect beer for creating
legendary times with legendary people. By All Means Hacker-Pschorr Lakefront
Raise a can to honor today’s legends.
Brewed with Noble hops. Prost!”
001 Märzen Oktoberfest Brewery
What our reviewers thought: Oktoberfest Märzen Oktoberfest
87 88 88
“The subdued nose is pleasant—light A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 12
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
caramel, light toasted bread, some F L AVO R : 17 F L AVO R : 17 F L AVO R : 17
MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4
black-tea herbal notes. The light doughy OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 9 OV E R A L L : 9

aroma is unassuming, but the first sip

makes a stronger impression—a wash
of crusty French-bread malt never slides
into sweetness. It’s balanced with an
herbal hop, driving to the perfect bitter
finish. That bitterness builds a bit higher
than one might like for the style, but it
works well here. Nice, round, smooth fla-
vor—bright, moderately sweet malt, fully
married to a pleasant, gentle, herbal
bitterness. Elegant, with some pleasant
sweetness and heft. Nicely done.”
What our editors thought:
“Fragrant toasty floral and bready nose
jumps from the glass with authority. The
sip softens a bit, with a gently rolling
and slightly sweet but structured bready
caramel-malt note that slowly resolves
into a deft and understated but equally
captivating German-hop floral finish.”
ABV: 5.7% IBUs: 22
Loc: Framingham, MA
What the brewer says: “Foeder-
aged Oktoberfest lager. Smooth and
malty with a hint of oak.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Moderately strong vanilla and oak up
front, which, combined with the rich
toasty bread-crust malt, gives it a bour-
bon character. Notes of very floral wood
and light cinnamon spice. The barrel
dominates this beer completely—could
use just a bit more body.”
What our editors thought: “Oaky
nose with some herbal
vanilla and a slight veg-
etal tinge. It trades lager
definition for a broadly
accessible, if a touch
simple, malt body, but
the spicy wood tannins
help hold it together.”
ABV: 6% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Billings, MT
What the brewer says: “Gloriously
smooth, honey-colored piece of history.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Red-tinted gold color, with toasted-grain
and moist-loaf notes. A study in toasted
caramel. From the aromatic swirl of
sweetness in the nose to the malty depths
of the flavor, into the slight stickiness in the
drying finish, it offers up more details to
complement its sweet center. Touches of
raisin, mild spice, and ginger.”
What our editors
thought: “Fruity malt notes
on the nose evoke grape
and fresh-harvested grain
bin. On the sip, a gauzy
sheen of sweetness hides
malt definition in layers of
fruitcake, finishing with a
touch of ethanol.”
ABV: 5.8% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Munich, Germany
What the brewer says: “Heaps
of Munich malt give our Oktoberfest its
nutty, caramelly flavor.”
What our reviewers thought: “A
toasty malt aroma leads to a deeper malt
flavor, with toffee, light raisin, and a hint of
roasted marshmallow. Compelling aroma,
with floral accents, wildflower honey. The
finish is relatively dry, with al-
most a hint of roast along with
a light brush of earthy hops.”
What our editors
thought: “Sweet fragrant
floral-hop nose overwhelms
the faint malt. The same
is true in the sip, as a light
sweetness without other
malt character makes it a
rather one-sided affair.”
ABV: 5.8% IBUs: 14
Loc: Milwaukee, WI

92 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING

MadTree Port City Rosenstadt Sierra
Brewing Brewing Brewery Nevada
Ziegler Oktoberfest Festbier Oktoberfest
92 95 91 88
A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 11
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 18 F L AVO R : 19 F L AVO R : 19 F L AVO R : 18
MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 3
OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10

What the brewer says: “Rich,
toasty, and bready maltiness that drinks
clean and smooth. Full-flavored but
light.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Rich malty flavor melds toffee, nutty
grain, and a hint of molasses, grounded
with an herbal hop flavor and a firm,
but understated bitterness. The finish
is dry, letting the malt give way to the
hops. A nice touch of darkness like the
Schwarzwald (Black) Forest.”
What our editors thought:
“Toasted-peanut note on
the nose leads into more
nuttiness in the sip.
Wide bodied and full,
but a light and crisp
bitterness keeps it
grounded.”
ABV: 5.7% IBUs: 20
Loc: Cincinnati, OH
What the brewer says: “Served in
the ‘Keller’ or ‘Zwickel’ style—unfiltered
and naturally carbonated.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Nice blend of herbal Noble hops and
bready malt, verging on toasty. The malty
flavor is on the sweet side, with sugges-
tions of caramel and toffee. Nicely rounded
flavor and fairly lively mouth-
feel. Sweetness continues
into the finish. Pretty elegant
märzen-like lager—balanced
and fairly delicate.”
What our editors
thought: “Mid-toast
nose with dry and crisp fall
leaves. On the sip, it trends
sweet with a faint coffee
note adding a touch of
bitterness. Easy to drink.”
ABV: 5.2% IBUs: N/A
Loc: Alexandria, VA
What the brewer says: “Layered
malt flavors of bread, almonds, and dried
fruit are accented by spicy, floral hopping.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Restrained aroma—just a bit of light sweet
malt and cooked sugar. Some fruity-floral
notes emerge as it warms. Lightly sweet,
well attenuated, and pretty dry into the
finish. A subtle beer, well integrated, light
on oomph but nicely delicate.”
What our editors
thought: “Light aroma
offers little more than simple
toasty malt. Flavor adds a
light earthy hop accompa-
niment but continues to
keep it simple. The most
interesting element is the
grainy finish, which match-
es the mild astringency.”
ABV: 6.2% IBUs: 28
Loc: Portland, OR
What the brewer says: “Toasty
malts and German hops yield notes of
fresh bread and floral, fruity character.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Soft floral Noble-hop aroma. Subtle
bread and biscuit malt notes. Very light
metallic twinge to the water profile, but it
finishes clean and dry with a light lingering
bitterness. More festbier than märzen.”
What our editors thought: “Light
bready nose with a slight
sweetness, like French toast
with a dusting of powdered
sugar. The sip brings the
bitterness forward, with a
burnt bread-crust and
earthy round bitterness.
It’s not as delicate as
some, with a lingering
almost cacao bitter note.”
ABV: 5.5% IBUs: 28
Loc: Chico, CA

Paulaner Prost Shiner Silver City

Oktoberfest Brewing Oktoberfest Oktoberfest
Märzen Märzen Lager
85 98 95 94
A RO M A : 11 A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 11
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 16 F L AVO R : 20 F L AVO R : 19 F L AVO R : 19
MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 9 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10 OV E R A L L : 10

What the brewer says: “An amber
beer style developed over 200 years ago
to celebrate the original Oktoberfest.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Moist dark-bread nose with some
brown-sugar accents. Fresh and malty
in one of those obvious but enjoyable
‘they’re brewing today’ ways. Sweet,
grainy flavor on medium body, with min-
imal bitterness. Leans sweet, more like
artisanal spent-grain bread
than malt beverage.”
What our editors
thought: “Light bready
nose with faint caramel
notes in the nose. The sip is
bright with a touch of sweet-
ness tempered by a woody
hop, toasted-malt character
that keeps it in check.”
ABV: 5.8% IBUs: 21
Loc: Munich, Germany
What the brewer says: “German-
style Oktoberfest lager.”
What our reviewers thought:
“Toasty and bready, the aroma is elegant
and clean. Pleasant, brightly sweet malt
note sings out front, like an amped-up
helles, sweet pastry, or the purest honey.
Reddish-gold color—lovely—with ample
foam. Each sip has the same disciplined
simplicity of bruschetta, herbal hop
flavor, and crisp clean finish.”
What our editors thought: “Light
nutty, bready notes on the nose hit it right
down the middle of the style. The sip keeps
the conversation flowing,
with punchy malt notes
that waver between sweet
and dry, threading a
difficult needle. A burst of
earthy hops in the finish.”
ABV: 5.8% IBUs: 22
Loc: Denver, CO
What the brewer says: “Made with What the brewer says: “Presents
the highest quality malts, along with rich malty sweetness, and spicy hop
German-grown Hallertau Tradition and character.”
Hersbrucker hops.” What our reviewers thought:
What our reviewers thought: “Bread crust and crackers set the mood
“Dark rye bread with a touch of earthy in the aroma, while the flavor
hops offer an intriguing first aroma. That adds a delicate hint of toffee.
blend continues into the flavor, with a The finish dries out slightly,
building complexity of hop but still leaves a sweet
character: earthy, but spicy and impression.”
herbal, too. This one doesn’t try What our editors
to soothe the palate.” thought: “Brioche nose
What our editors with light nutty notes
thought: “Burnt-toast and alcohol-driven ac-
nose pushes one notch cents. Bright, sweet malt
past done and into singed flavor, with a judicious
crust. The sweet caramel dusting of light earthy
sip offers short-term plea- bitterness. It gains depth
sure, and a mid-strong hop from subtle hops and
note eventually balances.” not-so-subtle alcohol.”
ABV: 5.7% IBUs: N/A ABV: 6.3% IBUs: 21
Loc: Shiner, TX Loc: Bremerton, WA

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 93
TASTED: FESTBIER

Ska Brewing Starr Hill

Oktoberfest

87
A RO M A : 11
Brewery
Festie
93
A RO M A : 12
AD
INDEX
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 17 F L AVO R : 18
MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 5
OV E R A L L : 9 OV E R A L L : 10

What the brewer says: “Amber- What the brewer says: “Smooth
brown color imparted by nutty, bready, and malty with a clean finish, this is our
toasty Munich and Vienna malts.” tribute to the German tradition.” Our advertisers help make it possible for us to bring you
What our reviewers thought: What our reviewers thought: great content from the best contributors, issue after issue!
“The sugar-cookie nose is almost per- “Rich bready malt, with light hint of spice.
fumed, with hints of pilsner malt. The hops The flavor is appropriately malty, but the
get involved with orange zest and floral finish is crisp and dry. The bitterness is
impressions. Pleasantly sweet malt, like a a touch assertive, lasting into the finish, A&E Conveyor Systems 26
fresh scone. Moderate hop flavor mingles with a fruity ester. Leans a bit
with the caramel sweetness but leaves a sweet, going a bit drier in the ABE Beverage Equipment 27
slightly resinous tail of bitterness.” finish, with a slightly rough,
What our editors thought: earthy-herbal bitterness.”
Anvil Brewing Equipment 29
“A pointed caramelized-sugar, floral, What our editors
Bairds Malt 10
and burnt-crust nose offers a hearty thought: “Toasty almond
swagger. The sip follows and marzipan notes on the Blichmann Engineering 46
through with big but dry nose lead to a slightly loose
well-toasted bread, an sip with a bit of carbonic Blichmann Pro 47
earthy hop through line, bite in the front that quickly
and a heavily toasted fades into a pleasant but BSG5
light bitter malt finish.” unremarkable body.”
ABV: 6.1% IBUs: 22 ABV: 4.8% IBUs: 12 Canada Malting Company 15
Loc: Durango, CO Loc: Crozet, VA
Cascade Floors 10
Comté Cheese Association 18
Spaten Wallen-
Oktoberfest paupack Country Malt Group C3
Ur-Märzen Oktoberfest Five Star Chemicals 29

87 86
A RO M A : 12 A RO M A : 11
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 16
MOUTHFEEL: 4
APPEARANCE: 3
F L AVO R : 16
MOUTHFEEL: 5
Founders Brewing Co. 9
OV E R A L L : 9 OV E R A L L : 9
Great Western Malting 19
What the brewer says: N/A What the brewer says: “A perfect Hopsteiner25
What our reviewers thought: balance of German malt and hops …
“Toffee-toasty fireworks in the nose pours a beautiful burnt orange.”
INX International Ink Co. 43
and mouth. Pleasant, well-integrated What our reviewers thought:
NY Hop Guild 1
aroma—light caramel, a bit of nutty “The sweet caramel nose has a light
toasted malt, and some fresh wort, with vegetal note with some mild graininess. ProBrew17
light herbal hops. Bright sweetness is The flavor doubles down on that grainy
grounded by a shadow of molasses. It’s element, with flecks of fresh-crushed Mu- Ruby Street Brewing 10
not as clean or crisp as my nich and melanoidin malts that provide
memories of Bavaria, but it depth for the honey-caramel maltiness.” Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. C4
does seem well-matched for What our editors thought:
a cool fall evening.” “Crispy toasted-bread nose with light Ss Brewtech 2
What our editors floral undertones, in an inversion of
thought: “Vinous grape the typical arrangement.
Two Roads Brewing Company 21
nose with caramel under- The sip leads with a bold
tones leads into a warming sweetness matched by
Yakima Chief Hops 7
sip with loosely sweet and equally bold floral hops, YETIC2
slightly fruity malt. A touch buffered just a bit by
of cola hangs in there crunchy toffee/peanut
For more information about advertising in Craft Beer &
through the finish.” brittle notes.” Brewing Magazine®, please contact Media Experience
ABV: 5.9% IBUs: 23 ABV: 5.9% IBUs: 24 Manager Blake Osmond at bosmond@beerandbrewing.com
Loc: Munich, Germany Loc: Hawley, PA or 888.875.8708 x707.

94 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING

 MAKE YOUR BEST
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131 FESTBIER
IPAS REVIEWED

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» Understand Hop Aromas
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Brewery Workshopping
After more than a year on pandemic hiatus, the Craft Beer & Brewing Brewery Workshop: New
Brewery Accelerator returned in June to Denver, where breweries-in-planning and newly opened
breweries convened for four days of panel discussions, tours, working groups, and more.
Clockwise from top: the Brewery Workshop: New Brewery Accelerator June 2021 class; Kelissa
Hieber of Goldspot Brewing shares strategies for maximizing a small brewery space; Phil Joyce of
Amalgam and Ratio Brewing leads a group through the Bierstadt Lagerhaus brewery and cellar;
the panel discussion on trendy styles with moderator Jamie Bogner, Neil Fisher of WeldWerks
Brewing (Greeley, Colorado), Lee Cleghorn of Outer Range Brewing (Frisco, Colorado), Sean Buchan
of Cerebral Brewing (Denver), Chad Yakobsen of Crooked Stave Artisan Beer Project (Denver), and
PHOTOS: JOE STANGE AND JAMIE BOGNER

Chris Marchio of Knotted Root (Nederland, Colorado).

96 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING