Trims & Details Sourcing

Guide A/W 22/23

Polarising outdoor and indoor lifestyle shi s create new
opportunities for trims. Discover how practical,
occasionwear and comfort-driven details respond to these
drivers, as well as the latest on low-impact material
developments

Olivia Barnes
09.08.21 · 8 minutes

Valter
 Overview
The A/W 22/23 Sourcing Guide is delivered via
established relationships with WGSN's global
manufacturer network. In this report, value-
driven bestsellers, new developments and key
trends are analysed alongside the latest
sustainable material developments.
Consumer priorities accelerated by the
pandemic, such as practicality, durability,
versatility and comfort, remain the key drivers
behind trim developments. With adaptable and
ABM knopf & knopf modular features holding stable in their share
of the new-in apparel mix at 5% in the UK and
US, consumer buying shows continued interest
in items that feature value-driven practical
function.
Material developments follow a similar
trajectory to summer, with keywords including
monomaterial, recycled, organic and bio-
based. Look to materials and products verified
by third-party certifications, particularly
important for end-of-life claims.

Frieba Textilwerk Klauber Brothers

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 Bold optimism 
Feel-good colours and simplified, minimalist
designs bring a sense of optimism to functional
trims. Introduce interesting colour plays to
products with mix-and-match zip tapes,
modular details and adjustable fastenings.
Comp os ition: source recycled PET and
recycled nylon zip tapes, or look into bio-based
plastic developments.
Details and finish: WGSN e-commerce data
Frameless Asia Paci c @manuelobadiawills Riri reveals adaptable and modular features
increase their share of the new-in trousers mix
globally 1ppts to 3% in the UK and 4% in the
US, respectively. Feed into these design details
with open-ended zips that facilitate
reversibility and removable panels. Keep
components simple, introducing contrasts
through rubberised cord ends, colour-blocked
warp ribbons, tapes and bindings.
App lication: jackets, outerwear, trousers,
activewear, accessories

ABM YKK Riri

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 Domestic craft
Increased interest in cra ing during lockdown
is set to continue, driving a new appreciation
for traditional slow cra techniques such as
embroidery, crochet, lacework and macramé.
Comp os ition: suggest a gentle handcra ed
feel with irregular slubby yarns, prioritising
natural fibres such as linen, hemp and organic
cotton. Match fibre composition with
embroidery threads to improve end-of-life
recyclability.
Kord Iplik Vostex @untitledco
Details and finish: emulate labour-intensive
processes such as crochet with intricate
embroideries, explored by Klauber Brothers.
Use embroidered tapes and ribbons to add
interest to create # cra eddetails on armhole
seams, cuffs and necklines.
App lication: jackets, outerwear, dresses, tops,
accessories

Klauber Brothers Vostex Raintree Design

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 Core classics
Investment buying will become more
important as consumers adopt a less-is-more
mindset, seeking out products that retain value
and wear well. Source high-quality trims that
have timeless appeal and boost value within
recommerce propositions.
Comp os ition: look into alternative materials
such as Mycel from A.p. Xpress, a leather
alternative material made from
mycelium. Source solid components in corozo,
Labam ABM Brochot
horn and recycled polyester.
Details and finish: opt for products and
materials with gently worn, brushed or natural
state surfaces that hide wear and tear well and
require less intensive finishing processes than
high-shine finishes.
App lication: jackets, outerwear, trousers,
tailoring, accessories

Apxress glltn / Phigvel Makers Co SAB

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 All-day comfort
Versatility and comfort will remain a priority for
consumers in a post-pandemic world.
Integrate discreet # supremecomfort
into everyday items via adjustable details
and so -touch materials.
Comp os ition: look into peached and flocked
finishes that introduce so tactility to solid
components.
Details and finish: accelerated by the
Amandine Cha Cold Laundry CHARLE - premium haberdashery pandemic, WGSN e-commerce data shows
elasticated features increase their share of the
new-in apparel mix by 2ppts to 6% in the US,
remaining stable at 7% in the UK. Design
adjustable details into garments for ease of
wear throughout the day, from # luxelounge
and offlinewear to casual # supremecomfort
pieces.
App lication: trousers, loungewear, tops,
lingerie, accessories

SAB Kord Iplik Amandine Cha

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 Precious embellishments
Semi-precious stones remain an area of focus
as the conversation around wellness and
# healingmaterials continues. Emulate the
intricate surface qualities of marble, shell and
mineral stones with low-impact solid material
developments.
Comp os ition: prioritise low-impact recycled
plexiglass, recycled PET and bio-based
developments over conventional materials. For
investment pieces, source traceable mother of
Valter Christopher Esber Valter
pearl or recycled shell composites.
Details and finish: add value to dresses,
blouses and outerwear by applying statement
details in jewellery-like placements.
App lication: jackets, separates, occasionwear,
casual and day dresses, accessories

Riri SAB Valter

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Compagnie Francaise du Bouton
Practical utility
Consumer lifestyles will continue to expand
into outdoor spaces and activities, driven by the
pandemic and the resulting outdoor
boom. Develop everyday outdoors looks with
durability and practicality front of mind,
prioritising understated and simplified designs
that speak to value-driven consumers with
long-lasting appeal.
Comp os ition: YKK's DP300 Nylon snap
buttons have been designed with recyclability
knopf & knopf Riri
front of mind. The monomaterial components
have been created to be used on nylon
garments for improved end-of-life recyclability.
Details and finish: speak to our A/W 22/23 Re-
tility direction with unassuming trims that can
feed into smarter workwear-inspired styles as
well as rugged outdoors themes.
App lication: jackets, outerwear, trousers,
accessories

1LDK YKK Luca Cuccolini

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 Artfully reprocessed
Waste-stream material developments and
upcycling processes feed into a growing
appreciation for designs that celebrate artful
expression and creativity.
Comp os ition: recycled PET is a key material
for this story. Seek out other recycled and
reprocessed materials such as plexiglass,
nylon and shell.
Details and finish: be inspired by the grainy,
SAB ABM Valter speckled and irregular mosaic finishes created
by waste material granulation and
repurposing. Marbled material composites
work well for flat, bead-like embellishments
and statement details, explored in recycled
plexiglass at Valter.
App lication: jackets, outerwear,
trousers, tops, separates, accessories

Brochot Red Button SAB

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Frieba Textilwerk
Nostalgic outdoors
Retro references and # thegreatoutdoors come
together as consumers find solace in nature.
With the outdoor boom set to impact lifestyle
products and activities beyond the pandemic,
expand on super-technical looks to appeal to a
broader audience.
Comp os ition: prioritise hardwearing and
durable products that deliver on function as
well as looks. If this means polyester
hardware, cords and trims, then source high-
Mister Gentleman knopf & knopf
percentage recycled polyester products over
conventional virgin fibre alternatives.
Details and finish: look to our Rerooted
Nature trend for grounded palette cues and
ways to update classic fabric combinations.
App lication: jackets, outerwear, trousers,
tops, accessories

Vostex Manifattura di Domodossola SPA Frieba Textilwerk

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Action points
Keep up-to-date with
monomaterial developments
Trims and details evolve with a greater
focus on end-of-life recyclability, as
industry leaders take steps towards
circular production. Investigate
emerging monomaterial details that can
be easily recycled with same
composition garments. Removable
rivets, poppers and buttons are another
way to improve recyclability options
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Add value with comfort-
enhancing details
Home-based lifestyles and ways of
working will continue for many post-
pandemic. Design in basic details that
facilitate comfort, such as drawstrings
and elastic features, both of which are
performing well within US retail,
increasing their share of the new-in
product mix by 2ppts to 8% and 2ppts to
6% retrospectively
Boost the value of casual
occasionwear with crafted
details
Recognise the growing appreciation
of cra ing that built during periods of
lockdown, with embroidery, crochet,
lacework and macramé details.
Versatility and value-per-wear remain
priorities for consumers. Balance your
offer between casual and day
occasionwear with day-to-night cra ed
details and statement jewellery-like
placements
Favour low-impact
developments over
conventional materials
Work with current and new suppliers to
diversify your material basket, moving
away from conventional,
environmentally damaging resources to
low-impact developments. From
compostable to biodegradable, be
conscious of using the correct
terminology for bio-based and natural
materials at end-of-life to avoid
greenwashing
Methodology
WGSN e-commerce data:
Based on women's products across 85 retailers in the UK and US from July 1 to July
31 2021 and 2020
Please note, some retailers are excluded to ensure like-for-like calculations and
to avoid inflated product counts due to the acquisition of new retailers on the e-
commerce platform
Numbers may fluctuate as we recategorise to help clarify ambiguous/new
products or if retailers refactor their website
WGSN s ocial media data:
We use text analytics to track, measure and respond to the conversations that are
driving some of the key trends within this report across our WGSN influencer map
WGSN influencer map: created by a team of WGSN trend specialists that lists
influencers from the US and Europe, selected from a range of disciplines, eg
brands, stylists, photographers, publications, etc
Definitions :
New-in: the products that are newly added to the retail website within the
timeframe selected
YoY: year-on-year
All materials and fibres data include products containing the specific keyords
("wool", "Ecovero") within each product's name, description, material and details Klauber Brothers
collected across e-commerce websites

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Mill contacts
ABM Fr ieba Lamp o Red Button
info@abm-usa.com info@frieba.de www.lampo.eu info@redbutton.com.tr
www.abmfashion.com www.frieba.de www.redbutton.com.tr
Luca Cuccolini
APXPRESS Klauber Lace erika@lucacuccolini.com SAB
uk@apxpress www.klauberlace.com www.lucacuccolini.com luhuile@sab-cn.com
www.apxpress.com sales@klauberlace.com Pols an www.weixing.cn
Brochot Knop f & Knop f utkan@polsanbutton.com.tr Valter
camille@brochot.com tanja.mueller@knopfundknopf.com www.polsanbutton.com
info@valter.it
www.brochot.com www.knopfundknopf.com
Raintree www.valter.it
Compagnie Francais e Du Bouton Kord neha.malhotra@raintreeuk.co.uk
Vos tex
virginie@cfdbouton.com nurgul@kordiplik.com www.raintreeuk.co.uk support@vostexfashion.com
cfdbouton.com www.kord.com.tr
Rir i www.vostexfashion.com
Frameles s As ia Pacific Labam riri.uk@riri.com
YKK
harald@frameless-asia-pacific.com labam1949@labamsrl.it www.riri.com enquiries@ykkeurope.com
www.frameless-asia-pacific.com www.labamsrl.com www.ykkeurope.com

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