Professional Documents
Culture Documents
HS-BCG Whitepaper 07152020
HS-BCG Whitepaper 07152020
Culture
Culture Culture Culture
Quantifying What Matters Most to
the New Fashion & Luxury Consumer
Introduction
8-11
Methodology
14-19
The Desirability
22-27
Matrix
From Inspiration
30-35
to Actualization
Above
38-43
the Influence
Credentials
46-47
Introduction
Culture Culture Culture Introduction Culture Culture Culture Introduction
Today, luxury as we know it is perched on the edge of a Brands that are successful in this new environment do
massive generational shift. By 2026, Millennials and not simply respond to trends or outside narratives, but
Gen Z (people born between the years 1981 and 2004) instead become true drivers of culture: in short, they
(1) will make up more than 60% of the global luxury become culturally credible in their own right. They ap-
market. And with this rapid change, the behaviors, val- peal to a cohort who are not necessarily on the hunt for
ues, and desires of the luxury consumer will likely be product, but are spectators in search of inspiration, com-
unrecognizable compared to what they once were. munity, and identity builders.
In order to understand the passion-drivers and table-stakes Conversation and community are essential; The cultural
of what we call the New Luxury Consumer, Highsnobiety nodes of the 20th century have largely dissolved and this
and Boston Consulting Group (BCG) have joined forces next generation of young people are looking for a more
to use our industry expertise, consumer insights, and engaging and fruitful relationship. Rather than just
conversations with Highsnobiety readers to take a closer pushing potential buyers into making a purchase, they
look at what we believe lies at the center of luxury’s fu- have in turn expanded their addressable audience by
ture: culture. Central to the hypothesis that led to this focusing on inspiration, building scenes, developing
research is that culture today is not something set in stories, and enabling access to a moral and aesthetic
stone, but rather a dynamic built on a day-to-day basis in universe. While its form has changed, the importance of
constant conversation between people, brands, creators, creating influence never has. What we found while tak-
and all manner of institutions. ing the pulse of readers and consumers both before and
after the Covid-19 outbreak, was that cultural credibility
In our observation, brands that are able to participate in is more than just an idea in abstraction, but a set of quan-
credibility – those that offer authentic narratives and tifiable brand and product attributes that can have a di-
honest cultural interventions – are the ones who are able rect impact on a brand’s long-term success and bottom
to build lasting relationships with this next generation of line. Accelerated in its urgency in the face of the crisis,
consumer. It has become clear that successful luxury this ability for a brand to participate in culture is essen-
and fashion brands do not broadcast solely to consum- tial to surviving in the eyes of a new generation.
ers, but also to the broader culture that surrounds them.
There has always been an interplay between the wider
culture and the corner of it we classify as “luxury.”
Countries % of Luxury Consumers Surveyed The Emerging Group ~1,900 individuals from Highsnobiety’s US audience were surveyed as
of Cultural Pioneers a proxy for the Cultural Pioneers (2-3 % of US population) that represent
the “innovator” segment of fashion and luxury consumers.
General Luxury
Consumer
1 USA 21%
2 Italy 17%
3 France 17%
4 4 UK 13%
1 3
2 5 6 5 China 17%
6 Japan 15%
of Cultural Pioneers are Gen Zers versus 21 % of the more luxury purchases than the
30 % 37 %
Younger Millennials US luxury consumer population overall. overall luxury population.
(Age 24-31)
Influential
more likely than the average luxury consumer more likely to recommend a brand to others.
25 % 13 %
Gen-X to talk to others about a purchase.
(Age 40-55)
Source: BCG x Highsnobiety New Luxury Source: BCG x Highsnobiety New Luxury
Survey July 2019 Survey July 2019; BCG Luxury Market
Model, AltaGamma, US Census ACS
2019 population estimates
Cultural Pioneers
Successful brands no longer speak to, but rather through, Cultural credibility has democratized the luxury space
their audience. While social listening and search metrics and obliterated the idea of a “brand category.” The days
show the dynamics of trends from a top line perspective, when a brand would cater to just one consumer segment
the understanding on the frontlines of culture is that in are long gone. Different social groups – each with their
the streetwear landscape, the next big thing is designed own values and allegiances – gravitate toward brands that
by consumer choices, not luxury houses. Nessie, a Ber- they deem desirable. An obvious case study would be
lin-based stylist, observes: “Traditionally, fashion was Supreme: a masterclass in credibility management who
directed by fashion houses; the entire game is changing took the community of a downtown New York City skate
because the consumer and the community are deciding shop and worked cannily to leverage that story, growing
what the next trend will be.” over 25 years to a $1 billion evaluation in 2017. (3)
Our research in 2019 already suggested that a brand’s But how have legacy luxury houses such as Gucci, Louis
community-driven attributes and its perceived authentic- Nessie, Berlin Vuitton, or Rimowa become culturally credible and reju-
ity were a key point of desirability in consumer choices. venated their brand? Our research found that while tra-
And our research after the pandemic indicates an even ditional markers of luxury remain critical – superior
higher importance of these factors. We call these qualities quality, attentive design, and a narrative that situates
“cultural credibility building blocks,” and they are as fol- consumers above the high street – these are no longer
lows: The brand’s timelessness (50% of respondents sufficient to drive passion from the youngest cohort of
stating increased importance after the Covid-19 out- shoppers. Brands that are culturally credible foster loyal-
break), a brand narrative that builds an emotional connec- ty by enabling and encouraging participation and com-
tion (33%), the brand being worn by key opinion leaders munication. Those who are most successful in this new
and a consumer’s social circle (24%), and social respon- space in constant dialogue with their audience, spotlight-
sibility (25%). In understanding its consumers, amplify- ing a point-of-view and winning a cohort that stays with
ing relevant issues, and fostering new talent, a brand them long before and after any kind of commercial trans-
engenders trust and a durable base of support. Peer-to- action.
peer interactions are instrumental in helping a brand’s
idea spread and earn their place in the zeitgeist. The most This impact can be tracked beyond the wishy-washy um-
successful brands build responsive products designed for brella of “brand equity,” and can be directly correlated to
a specific mindset rather than a demographic. revenue growth. As part of our research, we analyzed
Phil, New York City
sales data from 32 brands over a three-year timeframe,
Within this new framework, credible sportswear compa- from traditional luxury to sportswear and streetwear
nies can become just as desirable as legacy luxury hous- brands, matching their growth rates with the cultural
es, and niche streetwear brands can experience explosive credibility scores derived from our survey.(4) Brands
growth rates to rival mainstream labels. The common that deliver on both luxury fundamentals and the key
thread is a base of support, one built through collabora- factors that constitute our cultural credibility matrix saw
tion, community, and an ability to respond quickly and annual revenue growth that is 2-3 times as much as those
authentically to the relevant issues of the day. who only deliver on classic luxury table stakes and are not
considered culturally credible.
Phil, co-founder of the direct-to-consumer, personalized
grooming and fragrance brand Hawthorne, and a
“multi-hyphenate” creative who has worked for the likes
of musician Blood Orange and Shayne Oliver’s street-
wear label Hood By Air, describes the power of cultural
credibility as “a giant, intangible myth that transcends
the actual point of purchase, the actual products, the ac-
tual environment you shop in. Just knowing there’s this
entire universe that you might only know a decimal about
– keeping that aura about the brand really elevates it.”
Alexandre Arnault
CEO of Rimowa
Quality
Sustainability
Status Signal
Limited Editions
social circle and wider cultural landscape. Bought by Friends and Community
Creative Partnerships
Personalization of Product
Passion Drivers: Attributes that encourage Table Stakes: Minimum expectations for the
desirability, with a proven significant impact on passion category. Attributes that are considered important, but don’t
towards a brand. have a statistically significant impact on passion among young
consumers.
Everyone is always shopping. In a digital landscape Our research found that Gen Zers spend half of their pur-
where broadcasting wants are often indistinguishable chase journey seeking inspiration and inspiring others
from acting on them, understanding and quantifying the (31% and 19% respectively). Moreover, more than 70%
“purchasing journey” can be challenging. There is a need of Gen Zers globally (82% in the US) make their decision
to move beyond the traditional funnel model tracking a to purchase while seeking inspiration. A number of lega-
linear path from awareness to consideration to purchase. cy brands have responded to this shift. Moncler’s Genius
Today, consumers are more often than not in awareness, project, which launched in 2018, saw the Italian brand
consideration, and purchase mode simultaneously. Most collaborate with upcoming and innovative designers not
importantly, our research found that young consumers just for the sake of merchandise, but also for the inspira-
are spending increasing amounts of time seeking inspi- tion that it produced. The history, logistics, production,
ration, and it is in this top-of-funnel phase where they are and presentation of a decade’s worth of fashion weeks
also making the decision to convert. Or as Ariana Grande were condensed and marketed in-house, unleashing an
puts it: “I see it; I like it; I want it; I got it.” Leon, Berlin Internet-ready narrative that has driven footfall to their
stores and in turn boosted sales across non-Genius lines.
For Cultural Pioneers, this split-second purchase deci- Gen Z and millennial consumers now represent 40% of
sion isn’t born from a sense of manufactured scarcity, Moncler customers, and 50% of those who purchased
but an in-the-moment gut reaction stemming from a real Genius products are buying Moncler for the first time. (5)
connection with products. It’s best described as a sensa-
tion where you didn’t realize you needed something so In the context of the modern marketing funnel, this rep-
badly until you found out it existed. They tend to trust resents a marked shift from the traditional strategy of
multi-brand retailers like Dover Street Market and The focusing on activities that capture demand and intent.
Webster over traditional department stores because of an Particularly with the pressure for short-term results and
equal willingness to take risks with product and to help the rise of post-scarcity digital media – widely popular,
consumers discover the novel and the new. lower-funnel-focused search and social formats – spend-
ing has been pushed towards shorter-cycle sales activa-
Leon, a fashion enthusiast in Berlin who funds his pas- tions. To respond appropriately and tackle the long-overdue
sion for streetwear and archival fashion through gigs rebalancing of the industry, brands need to ensure signif-
with his hip-hop collective and work as a model, trawls icant marketing dollars are still higher up the funnel.
social media and resale platforms in search of every-
thing from adidas x Yohji Yamamoto soccer shirts to Jean
Paul Gaultier womenswear puffer jackets. He applauds
other Cultural Pioneers “who invest thousands of hours
digging and finding garments,” a discipline that often
leads him and his friends to purchase items collectively.
“With the rise of social media, a lot more people are in-
terested in fashion – but there’s a distinction between
knowing ten brands and wanting to understand how
high-fashion designers get their inspiration,” he says.
“I want to delve in on how much depth a brand has, ex-
plore them – there’s always more to know.”
Rod Manley
CMO of Burberry
in Importance
Gen Z spends 50 % of their purchase Time spent on each component of the decision-making journey (in %)
12
19%
27%
24%
26%
37%
What Cultural Pioneers and credible brands have in com- shouted out by Cultural Pioneers like Alonzo include
mon is a tacit understanding that credibility is not a priv- Pharrell Williams, Ian Connor, and Skepta, but also in-
ilege, it’s a responsibility. The power of a platform is cludes more hometown heroes and localized figures. In-
determined by its relationship with its constituency. deed, almost half of the Cultural Pioneers surveyed for
our research say they are inspired by their own social
In his 2007 book Chasing Cool, Noah Kerner introduces groups, compared to less than one in five among the
the concept of shared equity, described as “a seamless general luxury-purchasing population.
balance between the following: a company’s DNA, the
desires of its customers, and the third party from which Moreover, social media has become an essential discov-
it’s borrowing.” It’s an interdependent relationship where ery platform. The anonymous British 20-something
all parties feel like they have something to contribute. behind the account @hidden.ny describes his feed as
“An immersive view into fashion and music culture
Hilary, a former buyer at Kith who now works for Japa- Alonzo, Berlin from the past, present and future.” A progenitor of so-
nese brand BAPE, makes it clear: “Brands are hiring called “archive accounts,” his Instagram features every-
people like Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton, Kim Jones at thing from old photos of designers like Nigo to sold-out
Dior, and Tyler, the Creator at Converse. They’re bring- Nike shoes, to collectible garments from cult brands like
ing clout, great ideas, and great networks; for these Junya Watanabe.
brands, their new creative directors represent not just
them, but also the community they can bring in.” “When I first began researching and developing in the
mid-2000s streetwear was incredibly niche, something I
As marketing expert Marty Neumeier wrote: “A brand was rooting for,” he said in a recent Highsnobiety inter-
is not what you say it is, it’s what they say it is.” And view. “Now it is pop culture. This huge popularity has
while a brand can try to control its perception by commu- allowed a wide variety of micro-cultures which are all
nicating a consistent narrative through everything from spreading and influencing new design. Fashion is more
its stores to its social media, nodes beyond their control free than it’s ever been and the consumers are heavily
like consumer word-of-mouth, co-signs from credible influencing the designers.”
multi-brand retailers, and coverage in the right kind of
publications help curry sentiment in their favor. It’s often said that “influencers are dead,” but our research
suggests their death has been exaggerated. Influencers
More than 30% of Cultural Pioneers say they are inspired Hillary, New York City
remain a key channel through which to communicate with
by independent lifestyle publications as opposed to main- consumers – brands simply need to be discerning in
stream magazines. Less beholden to big-name advertis- choosing who to work with. We found that 68% of shop-
ers and more likely to indulge in deep-dives on ephemera pers claim to know when someone has been paid to pro-
and niche stories, these platforms are integral for culti- mote a brand or product in a social post, yet 60% would
vating communities around a shared enthusiasm for es- still consider buying products discovered through these
tablished and up-and-coming labels. promotions so long as they feel the partnership “makes
sense.” It has therefore become more important than ever
Alonzo, a young sneaker enthusiast, met his friends for brand messaging activities to authentically embed
through sneaker campouts and Facebook groups that themselves in the social dynamics that play out alongside
nurtured a shared interest in fashion, vintage, and col- them. Our study found that brand-owned channels such
lectible items. He prefers not to flex his finds on social as websites, physical stores, and social channels are still
media, but hopes to influence his friends by sharing dis- among the top five sources of inspiration for the popula-
coveries and purchases directly with them. He “doesn’t tion at large. A truly 360-degree marketing plan across
really follow influencers” (whom he defines as figures relevant platforms is a minimum requirement for cultural
“utilizing their follower count to make money”). Instead, credibility as consumers continue to find inspiration in a
he looks to Key Opinion Leaders (KOLs), who tend to dizzying multitude of sources.
embody some hybrid of celebrity, influencer, and artist.
Like today’s young consumers – they can’t comfortably If luxury today is driven less by brands unveiling new
be placed into a singular box. high-end products and more by network-born desirabil-
ity, cultural credibility represents an evolution of how we
Defined by their impact across multiple cultural spheres understand that desire. Any brand without it risks losing
and for showcasing their taste and personal sense of style relevance with the next generation.
in a rawer, less-slickly produced manner (think Insta-
gram Stories and candid home photos), KOLs commonly
Virgil Abloh
Creative Director Men’s of Louis Vuitton
and Founder of Off-White
Nodes Beyond the Direct Control Social Media’s Role in Style Discovery
of Brands Are Often as Important
as Brand-Owned Channels
The Most Important Sources of Inspiration Sources selected as top 3 most important (in %) Respondents agreeing with statements (in %)
by Generation
0 10 20 30 40 50
Not Directly Word of Mouth 47% Overall Luxury Consumers Cultural Pioneers
Brand-Controlled 21%
18%
20%
70 % 92 %
Multi-Brand 37% “I use social media to discover new
Retailers 21% brands & collaborations”
26%
24%
Lifestyle 31%
Publications 10%
12%
12%
68 % 89 %
People Followed 21% “I can tell when someone has been paid
on Social Media 16% to promote a product/brand in a social
13% post”
8%
60 % 62 %
Brand 17% “If the partnership with the influencer
Stores 31% makes sense, I consider buying products
32% despite being aware that someone has
been paid to promote it”
31%
Department 16%
Stores 28%
35%
38%
58 % 49 %
Brand.com & 13% “I have purchased a product that
brand app 41% someone I follow has promoted”
40% (via all channels)
37%
Store 4%
associate/ 14%
Stylist 12%
9%
*Average % among Younger & Older Source: BCG x Highsnobiety New Luxury Source: BCG x Highsnobiety New Luxury
Millennials Survey July 2019 Survey July 2019
agement consulting along with technology and design, Research & Insights in
corporate and digital ventures – and business purpose. collaboration with BCG:
Brad Baker
Our diverse, global teams bring deep industry and func- Filippo Bianchi
Sebastian Boger
tional expertise and a range of perspectives to spark Helen Chu
change. BCG is in more than 90 cities and 50 countries. Christopher George
Katherine Kohan
Guia Ricci
Together with our clients, BCG’s Fashion and Luxury Sarah Willersdorf
sector are inventing the future through consumer led Copy Editors:
Johanna Kamradt
transformations, data and analytics, data-driven market- Linda Walsh
ing, sustainability, future of retail, new business models
Creative Direction:
and operating model reinvention. We support our clients Adli Klein
with total transformation – enabling organizations to Art Direction:
grow, building competitive advantage, and driving bot- Maria Ferraresi
tom-line impact that allow our clients to thrive. Our di- Designer:
verse, global teams bring deep industry and functional Michel Egger
Photo Credits:
Eva Al Desnudo
Lucas Gallman
Bryan Luna
Nick Van Tiem
Julien Tell
Contact BCG:
liem.marcus@BCG.com
Contact Highsnobiety:
info@highsnobiety.com