Brief biography of Hazrat Sheikh Sirajuddin Junaidi 770 Hegira

Oh, Sheikh, you are a great Sultan of the Deccan

So your name is very famous around the world
You have given the kingdom to Hasan Bahmani
In this way, you have shown him a great favour
First, you have shown Hasan treasure in the jungle
Then you have asked him to gather a large army
Not only given wealth but asked to where to attack
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So due to your prayer, Hasan was successful at Miraj
Till his life, Hasan was his devotee and his disciple
Who followed your kind advice and become known
Oh Shah due to your work you are becoming famous
The history of the Deccan is not ok without your name
Due to his favour Bahamani Kingdom, become famous
Their good achievement and the personal record is fine
Oh, Shah, Hafeez is your old devotee so not forget him
And do not return from him your door of a kind favour

On the western side of Shah bazaar, his tomb is situated. His tomb and
door which are in grand construction style and the two minarets were
built by Sultan Adil Shah. On the door of the tomb, there is one couplet
that is inscribed. And from it, his date of death is known as 781 Hegira.
And from word (chronogram) Qutub, his age is known as 111 years.
And from Doran Ibn Mohammed Siraj his year birth is known which is
680 Hegira.
He belonged to the sons of the Hadrat Junaid of Baghdad. And his
genealogical link is connected with Salam bin Abd Manaf who was the
ancestor of the last prophet of Allah. His mother’s name was Bibi
Mastura and she was the daughter of Abdalla Qashiri from Peshawar.
His father, Abdul Muzaffar Sirajuddin went to Peshawar from Baghdad.
Then Abdallah, who was the son of the king met with him. And he was
married to his sister there. And there were born four sons to him. His
real name is Rukunuddin. But he has become famous and well known
for his father’s name and he was born in the year 670 Hegira. His father
has died when he was a very small child. He was brought him up by his
uncle who was king of Peshawar. And when he has become an adult
when he was reached to Doulatabd in the year 707 Hegira in search of
his spiritual master. And he was becoming the disciple of Hadrat
Khundmir Alauddin and has obtained caliphate from him and he went to
Delhi from Doulatabad. His spiritual master who was pious personality
and Qutub (highest cadre in the spiritual pivot at axis) of his time. And
who was the disciple of Hadrat Qawamuddin Mahmood.In the way of
mysticism, he was a jurist of his time. In the Deccan, his three caliphs
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came and he was one among them. He died on 28 Shaban on Friday in
the year 734 Hegira and he was buried in Doulatabad. There is one more
tradition that his coffin was taken away to Delhi from his son. In Delhi
Ghiasuddin Tuqlaq who was his great devotee there. And in every
matter, he used to act as per his advice and instruction. And which was
not liked by his courtiers and officials. And they were wanting to ignore
him and Pratap Rudra who was defeated the royal army in the Deccan
area. So, for this reason, the royal army was sent under prince Alaq
Khan there. And he was also going with the army so that for the sake of
the felicity of his foot there will be the successor to the army. And due to
the grace of the Allah royal army was successful in the expedition of the
Deccan. But there was opposite result upon the sultan and he began
thinking that when he was having such power with him that he was
defeated Raja of Warangal so he can also his rule from his side. But
there was difficulty in this matter that all people were under his
influence so the king cannot remove him from the kingdom. So there
was played one trick by his minister and who asked to attend the court
by a cover veil on his face as there will be royal harem before him there.
So he said that if there is such a case, then he will not come there. So he
left there with the intention of visiting Doulatabad.On his way, his elder
brother Arsalan has died in Lucknow on 17th Ramadan 723 Hegira. And
his younger brother Sheik Ahmed Salahuddin went toward the area of
Bengal for his teaching and preaching of Islamic mission there. And
after six years he died there on 9th Rajab in the year 729 Hegira. His
smaller brother lived with Sheikh Tajuddin. After living some years in
Doultabad he has received instruction for going to the area of the
Deccan.
He has arrived in the village of Kudchi which was at the bank of the
river. And by walking he was reached to Bijapur. And where his mother
has died on 12th Shaban in the 720 Hegira. And she was buried in the
house of minister Abul Hasan. Then he has arrived in Kudchi village
which was at the bank of the river Krishna. And from this village, there
is a deep forest area of tamarind trees at the distance of two miles and in
which he was settled down there. Kudchi is the village of Brahmins and
there is a big temple of Hindus situated. And from this village nearby
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villages are Rajapur, Chakuri, Kotli, and in these villages and in this area
due to his revelation and miracles, there was much progress of Islamic
mission there. So there was stopped idol worship in this area for this
reason. He used to wake up at the time of 3 ‘o clock during the night and
used to take baths and engage in the recital, remembrance of Allah, and
as well as other endeavours and used to perform Tahjud supererogatory
prayers. And after performing morning prayer then he will be used to
engage in the mediation and revelation. In those days mother of Sultan
Hasan Gangu and whose name was Ashraf Jehan and who was called by
the people Ma Sahiba and who came over to Sargur village and which is
near to Kudchi village while leaving her native place due to an upset of
her private matter in the royal harem. When she was heard name and
fame of Hadrat then she has visited him along with his son Alauddin and
daughter in law and two daughters in Kudchi village in his presence.
And all have become his disciples there.
In his servants, his two brothers were available and they were called
Mohamed Qasan and Mohammed Lagri. And who came along with him
from Peshawar city. He used to love them very much and he was given
his caliphate and they were in deplorable condition. One day village
Patwari Gangu Pandit came into his service along with respectable
persons of the village and he had said to him that “By the forecast of
astrology it was known that there will be no rain at all. So, for this
reason, you pray for the rainfall in the village. So that there may be no
starvation. He said that there is no house for Qasan so when there will be
rainfall then where they will go.? So first arrange for the construction of
the house for their stay of Qasan and mosque so that there will be a fall
of rainfall by the grace of Allah. When there was such his saying then
there was a crowd of the people, which throng there and Gangoji has
started construction for house and mosque in the village soon.
In the book ‘Tadhkira Maluk’ it was mentioned that Hadrat told Gango
Ji that “Yes, you are construction mosque, but what Hindus does know
about the construction of the mosque. So engage Alauddin, who is a
very poor person and who will help you a lot in this matter. Gangoji
immediately appointed him as the servant and he began giving two times
food to him and he was fixed some salary to him. First, the house
4
construction was completed and upon entry of Moulana Khasan into the
house rainfall started. And starvation was avoided in the village.
Alauddin was engaged in the construction of the mosque and he used to
stay there on the site and watch the labors. He was struggling hard and
working hard day and night in this endeavours.
One day at two o’clock afternoon time Hazrat himself came on the
site to inspect the construction of mosque work there. At that time all the
workers went for a lunch break from eating food. But Alauddin was
taking a rest under the tree as he used to get bread after 2.30 afternoon.
So he was taking resting and slept there under the tree in helplessness
condition. Hazrat has inspected the mosque construction work and then
he was seen Alauddin sleeping the deplorable condition and his hand
and foot were besmeared with mud and kneaded clay. So he told him
that “ Oh king of the Deccan why you are sleeping in a helpless
condition. How parasol of the king is looking good on his head.” Upon
saying this he was left from there. But there in this matter Alauddin
unaware of saying of Hazrat. After going off the Hadrat one cobra came
there and standing while shading of his hud on the face of Alauddin who
was sleeping there. The boys, while playing were reached there and they
saw a snake there and were began making loud and cry and were going
to see the patwari and reported the matter to him that the snake was
killed Alauddin. So, for this reason, the village Patwari came there in
worrying condition. And he has seen that snake was swinging there and
upon seeing him snake left in his burrow. The Hindus believe that the
snake is the god. So in this matter, he was surprised. He was waking up
Alauddin and he was taken him his house and given him food there.
Then he has checked his horoscope and he was found that Alauddin was
going to become the Sultan of Deccan. So, for this reason, he went into
the presence of Alauddin and he was standing in his presence by folding
his hands with respect and honor. So Alauddin was worried that what
mistake was done by him so his master is standing in such a position
before him. So Brahman told him that “Soon you are becoming the
sultan of Deccan so what he will give to him.”But there was no such
thinking with Alauddin about this matter even in his dream. But when
his master was firm in this matter, then he told him that “If the matter is
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such then you act as a sultan on my behalf and I will be your subordinate
like you as before.” The Brahman told him that “ There is no such thing
in his fate. Who has written such fate and it will happen as per his
writing.” Then Alauddin told him that “ I will give your one fourth or
half of the kingdom to you.” But Pandit told him that “What he will do
with his kingdom.”
Then Alauddin told him that whatever you will say I will accept such
things. The Pandit told him to accept two things in this matter.
1. To add my name along with your name in the royal seal as it will
remain forever in history.
2. To give an order that the royal office should be kept under the custody
of my sons.
Alauddin has accepted the above things happily.
In the history book of Farista, it was mentioned that “ Alauddin who was
an employee of one Brahman. And who himself was an employee of
Sultan Mohammed Tughlaq. And who got the kingdom of the Deccan
due to the prayer of the Hadrat Nizamuddin Auliya of Delhi. But in
another book ‘Tadkhira Mulk’ this event was mentioned in another way.
But it is not known which event is right in this matter. But it is correct
that Aladdin's mother Ashraf Jehan, who was the disciple of Hazrat. And
she was living in the place of Hazrat. And she has died in Kudchi village
and where her tomb is there. It is narrated that one day Hazrat was doing
ablution and then at that time for doing Masah (cleaning the head and
this is known as "Masah") and he was given his turban to Alauddin to
hold there at that time, but Alauddin thought that Hazrat was given his
turban to him so he was wearing on his head and touched his foot with
respect and honour. Then Hazrat told him that “ Why there is uneasiness
in this matter such day is very near when you will become Sultan.”
One day Alauddin has mentioned his poor condition and difficulties in
the presence of Hadrat so for this reason he told him “ Yes you go jungle
of Turgund and go there in such and such tree under beneath of which
there is the treasure and take it. With this wealth gather an army and
when the army will be ready and when he was given him the order to
attack the first fort of Mirj. There was the occasion of the holy festival
and Raja Tena who was busy at that time in gaiety and happy social life
6
in his palace. So, for this reason, Alauddin was reached without any
hurdles into the fort. And he has killed Raja and he has captured the fort
of Mirj. And he informed him the details in this matter to Hazrat and
who in reply conveyed his message of congratulation (Mubarakbad) to
Alauddin. Upon this Alauddin changed the place of Mirj as
Mubarakabad. From there he went to Penalgada and conquered its fort.
And there Raja Kalhar Chand was ruling. In this way, Alauddin has
conquered some forts and came into the presence of Hazrat. So he was
instructed him to conquer the fort of Gulbarga. And in those days Raja
of Bhiran was the ruler of Gulbarga and who was subordinate of Sultan
Mohammed Tuqhlaq. There was one temple in Sawangi village which is
8 miles away Gulbarga and Raja were going there to visit the temple. As
Aladdin's luck was good so he was reached directly into the fort without
any battle and hurdles. Upon hearing this news Raja came there and after
a fierce battle, Raja was killed and his head hung on the gate of the fort.
During the year 748 Hegira Alauddin was sitting on his throne. And he
has changed the name of Gulbarga as Husband. And as per his promise,
he made his name as follows.
“ Hazrat Subhani Alauddin Hasan Gangu Bahmani.” Till his life Sultan
used to go Kudchi every year. And he used to get felicity of kissing the
feet of the Hazrat there. Upon his death, his son Mohammed Shah, who
also used to visit Kudchi as per the system of his father and Kudchi is
away from Gulbarga at the seven destinations. One day he told him that
“ As you have such fondness of me to see me and come to visit me here
so due to your visit there will be a lot of difficulties for the people. So,
for this reason, I will come to see you in Gulbarga in the royal
procession and it seems not good for giving of the difficulties to the
people for the sake visit of the one person. ” When the Sultan was heard
this glad tiding then he could not able to control his condition and he
was declared all village in between Gulbarga to Kudchi as his presence
in the service of Hadrat. He said that it is against disrespect for him to
have those villages in his kingdom. Hadrat told him that “ If I will take
all villages, then he will become a rich person then who will call him as
a fakir. And in my children, there will find greed of wealth and richness
for this reason.” The Sultan offered him the second time, but he did not
7
accept those villages in his name. When Hadrat was seen that Sultan was
sad, so he told him that “ Yes give me on village Kudchi in my name.”
So the Sultan was happy to hear Hadrat's acceptance and he has
presented him Kudchi village and in which he was added seven nearby
villages. The Sultan was prepared title paper as follows.
“ This all country of the kingdom which belongs to Hazrat Maqdum
Rukunuddin Junaidi Qad Sarahu. And which he has rewarded me by
keeping one village Kudchi with him.” So, for this reason, the title paper
of Kudchi village is still found by his sons there.
Hazrat while making his successor, his elder son Sheikh Alauddin in
Kudchi then he came to Gulbarga along with younger son Qutubuddin in
the year 770 Hegira. At the riverside where he' sitting place was there.
After one Kose (One and a quarter to three miles) from the village, there
trees of tamarind were there and in that area, his tomb was constructed
there. And he has become well known and famous with the name of
Hadrat Siraj.
The Urs (death anniversary)
People from various walks of life, irrespective of caste and creed,
assemble to celebrate the Urs (death anniversary) which takes place at
the famous shrine (Dargah) in Kudchi every year. Several hundred
thousand devotees from near and far, irrespective of religion and beliefs,
gather there to seek blessings.

Conclusion
To write about this great Sufi saint and the great author is not only it is
difficult and but it is a very hard task as he was not only a great pious
personality of his time in the area of the Deccan (South India) but he
was also a great author of so many great books so, in brief, he was
Qu’tub (highest cadre in the spiritual pivot at axis) of his time in the
Deccan region.
For a long time, he was engaged in religious discourses, sermons, and
spiritual training of the people and he did also many great endeavours
for the preaching and propagation work of Islam in Deccan (South India)
and around this region and there was no such personality during his
time.
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Upon his arrival in Gulbarga, the Sultan asked him whether he will stay
inside of the fort or outside of the fort. He told him that “ Wait,I will
search myself my place. Where now there is his tomb and at this place,
there were trees of acacia were there. He said that from this place he was
finding the smell of Baghdad. So he will stay at this place. Immediately
tress was cleared and there was constructed one small house there was
the Sultan used to pay to visit him in the morning time. After the death
of Mohammed Shah, Mujahid Shah has become the third Sultan of the
Bahmani kingdom. And he came first in his presence before sitting on
the throne. So he has given him one dress of Khadi (An Indian
homespun cotton cloth.) fakir persons and one waistband and fixed one
turban on his head. Then he prayed to Allah in his favour. Mujahid Shah
after leaving from there and came to his palace and he wore the dress of
elegant and he was sitting on the throne. After this when the new king
will first go into the presence of Hadrat there wear Khadi dress and get
fixed waistband and wear a turban and get his blessing or from his sons
then he will sit on the throne in his palace.
When the Nizam of Hyderabad then he used to visit Gulbarga then he
was offered above fakir dress to him which he was wear there.
It is narrated Sultan Mujahid Shah asked his permission to conquer the
fort of Adhoni. And then he was told him go in the name of Allah and
there will be the success in this battle.” Then after Sultan Mujahid Shah
went into the presence of Hadrat Zainuddin and Hadrat Burhanuddin
Doulatabadi and he was also asked their permission to attack the fort of
Adhoni. When he was come to know this news then he sent his letter in
the presence of the Sultan Mujahid Shah that if he will go there with his
permission then there will be successful and if you go there on the trust
of others, then there is no need of his permission in the campaign.” The
Sultan was shocked by his writing and which he was not liked by him.
And he said that “ Yes, well it is known. I have sent a large number of
my army there. And I will go there in the campaign. And I will see
whether how this campaign will not be successful.” Mujahid Shah was
thereby in the campaign of the besiege of the fort for many months. The
ration supply of the fort was finished away. Due to heat, there was a
prevailed shortage of water in the fort. But there was the grace of Allah
9
and pray of the Sheikh was there so there was a fall of heavy rainfall.
There came life in the dead hearts and the fort people came out of the
fort and attacked severely by the army of Mujahid Shah. So, for this
reason, he was defeated there. Sultan Mujahid thought on this matter that
it was the curse of the fakir. So in anger, he said that “When he will
reach Gulbarga then he will kill the fakir at once.” So At the time of his
arrival in Gulbarga unless and until he will not do this work then he will
not put his foot in the fort. When this news reached to Hadrat then he
was told that “He will not reach to Gulbarga.” So it has happened the
same with him.
When the Sultan came back from Adhoni and he wants to enter into the
city, then his horse slid down and he was falling from the horse and his
head becomes into pieces and he died on the spot. In the book ‘Tadhkira
Al- Mulk’ it is mentioned about Mujahid Shah that when he was reached
to Gulbarga then one gypsy slave who killed him there in the year 779
Hegira.
After some days he asked his servants to bring some fine rice and pulse
for him. And he was boiled rice in the split pulse. He has put the rice
cooked in the pulse in two trays in full. And he was also put there 11
paise and one rosary of good quality. Then he was told to his grandson
Abul Fazal who was his successor that his death days are near. And after
about 22 years Hadrat Khaja Bande Nawaz Gesu Daraz will arrive in
Gulbarga from Delhi and who arrived in the year 804 Hegira during the
ruling period of Sultan Feroz Shah Bahmani and who was the caliph of
Hadrat Nasiruddin Chiragh Dehli. Hazrat Khaja Bande Nawaz Gesu
Daraz 804-825 Hegira

All the world knows well about Khaja Bande Nawaz Gesu Draz and all
his position and dignity which belongs to Hazrat Siraj Uddin Junaid
Baghdadi as he was granted such a position and dignity which is favour
of his consideration to him in this matter.
Hazrat Naseeruddin Chiragh Dehalavi who was the spiritual master of
Hazrat Khaja Bande Nawaz Gesu Daraz and who has given him
instruction and told him “ You go and meet great Sufi personality Hazrat
Sirajuddin Junaid Baghdadi and who in Gulbarga and seek his prayers.”
10
As per the instruction of the spiritual master Hazrat Khaja Bande Nawaz
Gesu Daraz left Delhi for his journey Gulbarga on 11th November 1398
A.D. He was migrated to Doulatabad from Delhi along with his family
members and parents and at that time Khaja Sahib was 80 years old and
from Bahdurpur, Gwalior, Bahandir, Chanderi, Baroda, Sultanpur,
Khambait, Khaja Sahib and his family members were reached to
Doulatabad.
During the above long journey of many days, many thousand his
devotees welcomed and greeted him on his way in the above old Indian
cities. As per records of history, it is clear that Khaja Sahib was advised
his disciples for his final resting place in Doulatabad near his father’s
grave, but due to the invitation of Sultan Feroze Shah Bahmani to visit
Gulbarga city so Khaja Sahib left from Doulatabad and reached
Gulbarga city. In the year 1400 A.D. he arrived in the land of Gulbarga.
His shrine is located on the western side of the Gulbarga fort in which he
had spent some time there, but due to some difference with the Sultan,
he left that place and shifted to the present area where his tomb is
situated.
When Hazrat Khaja Bande Nawaz Gesu Daraz was reached in Gulbarga
and he was come to know that Hazrat Sirajuddin Junaid Baghdadi who
was already died by that time. So for this reason he was much in the
condition of sadness. Then he has visited his grandson and whose name
was Hazrat Maqdum Awaise and who was a blind person at that time.
So Hazrat Khaja Bande Nawaz Gesu Daraz and who has put his hands
on his eyes. So for this reason he has regained his eyesight at that time.
Then he has seen Hazrat Khaja Bande Nawaz Gesu Daraz and he has
asked him are you Hazrat Khwaja Bande Nawaz Gesu Daraz? and then
he has told him yes he is Hazrat Khaja Bande Nawaz Gesu Daraz. Yes,
my grandfather who rightly said to me “ Oh Awaise after 40 years of my
death Hazrat Khaja Bande Nawaz Gesu Daraz who will come to visit me
but then at that time I will be not alive. But I have kept for him Khichdi
in such and such place so give to him”. When Hazrat Khaja Bande
Nawaz Gesu Daraz went near the window which is at the backside of the
head side in the tomb Hazrat Sirajuddin Junaid Baghdadi and at that
time lock of the window was automatically opened and there he was
11
found Khichdi in fresh and fine condition and there was the emission of
the steam from the food and as it was there since 40 years in hot
condition and emission of the steam was coming from it. So Hazrat
Khaja Bande Nawaz Gesu Daraz who has collected Khichdi and he has
sat at the place which is shown in Youtube clip and also there is
signboard in this matter. After eating of the Khichdi there was dignity
and status which was becoming world renown for Hazrat Khaja Bande
Nawaz Gesu Daraz due to kindness of favour of Hazrat Sirajuddin
Junaid.
The Urs (death anniversary) of Hazrat Junaid Baghdadi
People from various walks of life, irrespective of caste and creed,
assemble to celebrate the Urs (death anniversary) which takes place at
the famous shrine (Dargah) in Kudchi every year on the 14,15 and 16
Shawwal month. Several hundred thousand devotees from near and far,
irrespective of religion and beliefs, gather there to seek blessings.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
By Mohammed Abdul Hafeez
Email : hafeezanwar@yahoo.com

Reference book :

https://archive.org/details/vaqiatimamlakati01ahmauoft/page/195/
mode/2up?view=theater

A report from news paper

HINDU

12
 Embark on an adventurous
discovery of unearthing ancient
monuments
After a gap of a decade, I was
heading back to Kalaburgi. It is
always an adventure to head to
Northern Karnataka, especially if,
13
you like to travel by public transport.
The long and winding North Eastern
Karnataka Transport (NEKRTC) bus
ride is a great way to get a glimpse of
the culture and life of the people in
this region.
However, this time round, I had a
specific purpose — I recently came
across a water colour sketch by the
celebrated colonial artist, Colin
Mackenzie. It was Titled
‘Mausoleum and College of
Sirajuddin near Gulbarga, March
1797’. In his sketch, the Dargah was
a magnificent two-storeyed edifice,
flanked by two tall minarets. This art
work intrigued me enough to embark
on this journey.
Gulbarga (now Kalaburgi ) was the
capital city of the Bahmani kingdom
from 1350 AD until 1432 AD when
Ahmed Shah Bahmani moved the
capital city to Bidar. The Bahmani
rulers are known to have patronised
many Sufi figures during their rule
and Sheikh Sirajuddin Junaidi was
one of the earliest Sufi figures in the
Bahmani kingdom. He was said to be
the spiritual advisor to the king until
his death in 1380. The monument
depicted in the art work was his
Dargah.

14
The bus finally dawdled into
Kalaburagi Bus station around noon.
After a refreshing cuppa, I hopped
onto a friend’s motorcycle in the
hope of finding this grand 14th
Century monument. Kalaburagi, is
nothing like the grand capital city it
once was. The grand ancient
monuments are grappling with the
uninteresting modern buildings for
the visitor’s attention. There is a clear
division — old and new city. While
the old city plays host to the
magnificent medieval era monuments
amidst narrow roads, the new is all
about malls, shopping complexes,
housing layouts and newly laid wide
roads.
Surprisingly, my friend, a resident of
Kalaburagi, hadn’t heard of the
Dargah. So werefer to a guide book,
which tells us that the Sheikh
Junaidi’s Dargah is to the west of the
fort, hence, we decide to first go to
the fort and then orient ourselves.
We finally sight the tall minarets and
soak in the sight for few minutes.
Although the monument looked
exactly the same as in the sketch of
Mackenzie, the surroundings were a
far cry from his representation. The
Archaeological Survey of India (ASI)

15
signage confirmed that this indeed
was the Dargah of Hazrat Sheikh
Sirajuddin Junaidi. The imposing
arched double-storeyed symmetrical
gateway of the Dargah is framed by
minarets with cylindrical shafts and
balconies. The intended symmetry is
distorted by the inefficient
conservation work; the bottom storey
is painted pale white and plastered
while the top storey is untouched.
According to our guide book, this
gateway was built by the Adil Shahi
rulers in the 17th Century – about
350 years ago. As is the norm with
several ASI monuments, gateway has
been fenced all around and an ugly
cast iron gate prevents us from
entering the place. So we take the
narrow path on the side to get in to
the Dargah
There are hawkers selling incense,
flowers, sweets. The tomb of Sheikh
Junaidi is recently painted in white
and green on the inside and the
ceiling has been completely
transformed with gaudy glass
decorations. The original walls and
ceilings must have had inscriptions
from the Koran painted in natural
dyes. Now, there is no sign of the

16
original paint, but foliate designs and
stucco inscriptions.
In a quest to find an original 1380
Persian inscription, I asked an elderly
gentlemen sitting close by. He points
out the Persian inscription, now
framed and hung on the wall; this
inscription declares the tomb as the
mausoleum of the saint and dates
back to 1380 AD. Later, we also
learnt that the locals now know the
Dargah as Sheikh Roza. After a
satisfying, but tiring day of
exploration, we head home for a good
meal and a siesta.

17