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Pattern 3854 View A Sizes: XS-S-M View A Sizes: L-XL: Back Back Back Back Back
Pattern 3854 View A Sizes: XS-S-M View A Sizes: L-XL: Back Back Back Back Back
10 10 8 7 10 11 8
4
38 8 1 6 6 11 9
11 FABRIC 45" (115 cm)
3 11 11 5 WIDE 11 3. Stitch front to back, right10
sides
10 together,
KWIK SEW
4 5 6 VIEW A 344
Pattern 3854 6 9 6 75 9 at side seam and inside leg seam. Repeat
1 ®
10 10
2 Sizes: XS-S-M-L-XL
Misses' VIEW A Sizes: XS-S-M VIEW A Sizes: L-XL 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowances are for other leg. 9
2 51
2 3854 included.
3 Fold Fold
8 7 3854 Pieces 9 4
9 11 4 7 3 4 9
3 1. To make pleat on front, fold front, right
5
6 1 sides together, matching dots and lines. 8 10
3 7 1 2 3854 1
2 1 2 3 10
3854 Pieces 5 2
8 10 10 4 Stitch from waist to dot, following 9 8
stitching
11
3
4 1 3
1 11 8 10 10 lines marked and 10 lock stitches. Baste11 8 9 8
4 4 5 Selvages 11 pleat from dot to bottom
1 edge. 2
6 Selvages 3 11 4
2 7 6 5 10 10
1 9 10 7
A 1 10 10 B 2 5 Selvages
*
5
1 6 7 2 VIEW B Sizes: XS-S-M VIEW 4 3 10 L-XL
B Sizes: 10 8 7
2 5 10 10 2 8 8 6
11 11
8 9 11 10 8 8 9 9 7 Fold 7 9 6 5 9 9
1. Front View A 3
Double Layer
10 11 9
W SEWING
ING PROCEEDURE
PROCEEDURE ILLUSTRATIONS:
ILLUSTRATIONS:
2008 NEWMASTER MASTER
SEWING
2008 NEW PROCEEDURE
SEWING A ILLUSTRATIONS:
PROCEEDURE ILLUSTRATIONS: 10 10 7
2008 NEW SEWING 6 MASTER MASTER
6 7 7 PROCEEDURE 2. ILLUSTRATIONS: MASTER 8 3
6 7 8 10 Back View
P1 P1 P1 5P1 Fold P1
11 6 7
3. Front Facing View A
1 11 8 10
4. Back Facing View A 5 2
8 910 10 8 10 10 10
11 6 4
6 5 5. Front View B 11 11 11 9 8
1X 1X 1E 1X 1X 1X 4. Turn one leg right side out. Place this
1D 1E
1D 1E 1D 1E 6. Back View B
1E 6 5 6 5
7. Pocket View B Selvages 7 7 11 leg inside other leg, right sides together.
10 10
2 8. Pocket Facing View B 2 43 Pin center front 13
and center back seams,
5
For View A, use pattern pieces 1 through 4.5
10 10 9. Front Waistband View B
3
1 8 4 3
matching inside leg5 seams and dots for
10. Side Waistband
4 View B 98 Selvages Selvages
1 2 3 4
For View8B, use pattern pieces 5 through 11. 8 11. Back K BACKView B
BACWaistband BACK BACK
344 end of zipper. Stitch from front waist to
9 11 3 9 11 BACK
10 8 dot for end of zipper, lock stitches, and
HOW TO USE 3
10 A KWIK•SEW MULTI-SIZE
1 7 6 10 PATTERN INTERFACING 22" (56 cm) WIDE
7 9 10 8
6 91 baste from dot to waist. Trim crotch seam
7 3 7 2
4 Open pleat and center over seam line and allowances to 3/8" (1 cm) and overcast seam
For optimum results,11 READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS before beginning this project. NECK NECK
11 4 VIEW A Sizes: 7
NECK
NECK XS-S-M-L NECK
VIEW A Sizes: XL 9 press. To keep pleat in place, stitch across allowances together. Press center back and
6 5 3 4
1 6 5 each side of pleat only 9from dot to fold center front seam allowances
10 open.
BACK
Pattern includes five BACK BACK BACK Fold Selvage
HLENGTH 2 sizes and the lines are
1 color coded for the different sizes. 1 (see illustration). 2 3 4 5
Back LENGTH LENGTH LENGTH
Pattern is made to fit specific body measurements with2 ease allowed
CHESTfor comfort
CHEST and style. 7 CHEST CHEST CHEST 8 3
WAIST
Waist WAIST WAIST WAIST WAIST 43 9
10 9 4 8 10 10 9 10
98 8
Single
Compare your body measurements to measurements listed on the back of the pattern
Layer
11 8 11
Length
envelope and choose the size closest to your body measurements. 344 9 6 5
Selvages 3 410
10 4 7
Compare
10 the measurement
8 3 10garment,8 printed on the pattern piece,
of the finished 3 2to your
7 9 9 8 10 10
body measurements.
10 If garment is loose fitting 7you may
510 want to choose the smaller size.
10 10
11 Selvage
Select the pattern pieces for the view you have chosen and press pattern pieces 6 5
with a dry iron. 11 4 8 119 11 VIEW B Sizes:
7 XS-S-M-L VIEW B Size: XL
6
Cut out paper
5 3 4 2 6 5
pattern pieces, following the lines for the selected
4
3 4 3 size and view. Selvage Selvage
5 1 10 10 6 5 pieces.
Check for correct length and make any necessary adjustments
7 on pattern
2 11 9 8 8 10
10
Visit www.kwiksew.com/support for more information
Single
8 22 9 8
Single
Layer
10
Layer
9 11 4
9 11 8 11 9
10 9 88
CUTTING
6 344 1 2 11 344 3 4 5 6 7
7 press fabric if necessary. 10 10 1110 10
Preshrink and 10a
F Fabric layouts are shown for fabric with nap, one-way design, or shading. Selvage 1Selvage
1
9 32
4 2 3 3
10
4 4 5 5 6 6
8 1
Layouts are given as a guide, if adjustments are made on the pattern pieces, this may
change the position of the pattern pieces. 4
10 83 4 3 SEWING PROCEDURES
Find the layout by garment3 view,
4
3 fabric width, and size. Circle
7 4 9 layout.
chosen Use an all purpose thread and 4 3a size 12/80 sewing machine needle for light to medium 13
Fold fabric
5
1 double, right sides together, unless 1 otherwise indicated310
on the5layout, and 8
weight fabric or a size 14/90 sewing
14
1 8 108 machine needle for medium to heavyweight fabric. 1
place pattern pieces on22 the wrong side of fabric.
1 2
If placing pattern pieces
11 on a single layer Sew the10 10 length
seams with a medium 9 straight stitch. 8 109 8 13
10
of fabric, 3 of fabric. 62
10 place8 pattern pieces4 on right side 5
4 11 9 or to
11 8 8one side.10 8 the raw edges 10 14 10a
7
10
9 Press seam allowances open 11 If pressing open,9 overcast
11 8 9
15
Place pattern pieces on the fabric with the arrow on top of the grain line in the same before sewing the seam. If pressing
1110 10 to one side, overcast the raw edges
10 10 together after
direction. Follow arrows for correct grain, placing ends of grain line an even distance sewing the seam. To overcast use a wide zigzag stitch, three-step 11zigzag stitch or serger
11
from the6 selvage.
5 (overlock machine).
1G Hold pattern pieces in place with weights or pins. 9
344
Cut out pattern pieces, using scissors or rotary cutter. P6
5b
Transfer all construction lines, dots
3 and notches5 to fabric. The easiest way 3 to mark notches,
5 5a 5c
center front,
1 center back and fold lines is to make1 tiny clips on the seam 3
allowances. Or, 9
3 4 84 10 8 10 3854
mark with chalk or water2 soluble4 pen. If marking is needed on right
2 side
3854 Pieces 10 10
4 of fabric, mark
4 with 4 11 11 15 8 8
2 3 4 5 6 7 3854
pins or hand basting stitches. 3 4 9 9 Pin pleat to hold in place. 5. Note: If zipper is too long, measure 8"
GRADING SEAMS reduces bulk in the seams.
2 (20 cm)7for sizes XS,
Label pieces on wrong side with tape. 1 1
5
11 widths, leaving
Trim1seam allowances to2graduated 3 the seam allowance
11 4 5b 8 5 6
2 L and
P6Sp.1
3854 and M, and 9" (23
2 next to the outside of the garment the widest. 13 9 10 1 cm) for sizes XL from zipper 3pull and 12
4 with 9 5a 10 14 10a5c
LAYOUT CODE Pattern
3 4 Pattern piece
piece with PatternPattern piece with
piece with
Pattern Pattern
piece with piece with piece
Pattern
Pattern Pattern
piece with piece
with with piece with
Pattern 11 8 15mark. Hand stitch zipper11 closed at mark
Pattern
printed printed
side pieceof printed
of side Pattern piece
printed
side of side of sideprinted
printed of sideprinted
of
printedside
sideprinted
ofof sideprinted
of side of 5b P6
1 of Wrong side with printed side with printed side UNDERSTITCHING keeps facings and bindings from rolling 9 9 to 10 10 and trim
10a 10a (see illustration).
ericof Right Interfacing
side
Interfacing pattern
Wrong pattern
up
side of up
fabric
Wrong sidepattern
of pattern
down down
Interfacing
fabric 9 Special
upSpecial
pattern
Interfacing Instructions
Instructions
up10pattern up pattern 10 10
Right side
fabric of fabric
Right
Wrongside of
side
2 fabric
of fabric Interfacing pattern pattern down 5a down pattern 5down
Special Special
8 Instructions
Instructions Special Instructions
P2
the outside of garment. Fold9the seam allowance toward the 10 10 5d
7
5c 5f 9 16 1'' 11
3 fabric of fabric of pattern up of pattern
6 down7 Interfacing 8 5e (2.5 cm)
8
11 facing 10
and stitch on facing
11 close
6 through facing and
8 to seam
11
seam allowances. 5b 5 P6
3A 5 10 10 6 9 5c
5a P2 13
If a pattern piece is marked "Place on Fold" and 3is shown in the3 3 5 3854 14
4 first, allowing
3854 Pieces 5 5b 3854 8 10
P6 15 TRIM
following manner, cut all the other pattern pieces 1
4 2
3854 Pieces
5a 5c 10 5f 5i
3A
fabric where the shaded half is shown. Then fold fabric and place 4 STITCHING IN THE DITCH secures inside waistbands, 5d facings
11 5e 5h
2 Fold 9 8
the piece on the fold and1 cut. 3 and bindings to the garment.
5 2 1 5 5
11
5g
1 5 Stitch on the outside of the garment
8 10 through all layers in the
2 10 as close as possible to the seam.
*
4 Selvage Selvages 1 groove (ditch) of the seam, or On right side, stitch 3/4" (2 cm) on each side
If the layout is shown with a fold fabric crosswise, 4
3 11 9 8 5f 5f of dot (end of stitches) through all layers at
Crosswise Fold
9 10 5d 5d
right sides together, and cut apart along the fold from 9 5e 8 5e a 45 degree angle (see illustration). Repeat Pin right side of zipper to center back seam
10 11
10 10 7
6 7 3B around 1
selvage to selvage. Turn one layer of 68fabric 7 1 6 2 310 10 8 7 4 5 for other front. 6 allowances
7 3854
with
5i p.1stop at dot, zipper 17
zipper
11
and place right sides together, so the arrows on both 8 BLIND HEM 6 11 5f teeth along basted seam, and zipper
2
Selvage11 Selvages 5d
By machine—refer to your5e 9 sewing
6 5
machine 9
manual. 11 10 10a 5h 12 pull
layers are in the same direction. 7 6 5 9 9 1" (2.5 cm) 11
below waist. Fold under zipper 5/
By hand— use a catch stitch, turn hem back, working from left to14
13 5g tape at top to seam(1.5
3B 10 make another
9 make a small horizontal stitch on the garment,
right, 10a 5i
12 edge. Baste zipper 1''time.
155j 119 allowances only, one side at a 10
FABRIC 60" (152 cm) WIDE 13 13 your
stitch in the hem diagonally across from the first stitch, making 5h (2.5 cm)
14 14 13
stitches in a zigzag pattern. 5g 8 10 10 15 15 16 1''
11 5i 5i (2.5 cm)
VIEW A All Sizes 5
5h 5h
6 16 16
Fold
SEAM ALLOWANCES – 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowances 7
are included for all
4A 3
1 2 seams, unless 5g
otherwise specified in the following instructions:
4 5 3 10 10 1 5g P7 P7 P7
4
PRESSING TRIM
8 9 11
1
Steam press each seam as sewn. Press seam allowances open, unless otherwise 5j
2 1 4A 7 CLIP
7CLIP INNER
7 INNER
CLIP INNER TRIM
TRIM
2 6 specified
NOTCH in the following
NOTCH NOTCHinstructions. P7 P7 P7
7 CLIP INNER
CURVES CURVES Clip seam7OUTER
CURVES 95j
OUTERallowances where
7 necessary soTRIM
seams are flat.
TRIM TRIMCURVES NOTCH
OUTER 9
OUTER TRIM
7 CLIP CLIP
CLIP
7 CURVES INNER
INNER CORNERS 6
CORNERS 2. Stitch darts on backs and press toward
Selvages 7CURVES INNER CURVES CORNERS
NOTCH
NOTCH CURVES CORNERS
4B 1 2 CURVES NOTCH4
3 CURVES
CURVES 5 6 center back. 7 3854 p.1 17
5j OUTER
OUTER TRIMTRIM
TRIM OUTER 8
VIEW B Sizes: XS-S VIEW B Sizes: M-L-XL CURVES 10 10 CORNERS
8 CORNERS
11 CORNERS 43
CURVES
CURVES 10 10
5 8 11 17 5/8''
Fold Fold 13 6 7
6 10 5 147 Using a zipper foot, topstitch on (1.5
bothcm)
sides
9 10a 12
4B 2 8 3 FABRIC ILLUSTRATION CODE Right Side Right Side Right
Wrong Side Wrong Side
Side Wrong Side
15 11 of zipper 1/4" (6 mm) from center back and
5 10 10 10 29 5jInterfacing Right RightRight
Side Side 5/8''
5 10 10 7
10
Right Side
Right Side Right
13 SideSide
Wrong Wrong Side
RightWrong
Right
Side SideSide
InterfacingInterfacing
14
WrongWrong
Side Sideof Lining of Lining
Interfacing
Interfacing ofof
Side
of Lining
Lining
Lining
of Lining of Wrong
Wrong
of
Wrong
Lining
Side Side Side
Lining
of of
LiningLining across bottom of zipper. Remove basting
(1.5 cm)
Right Side
Right side Wrong Side
Wrong side Interfacing
Interfacing of Lining of Lining 13
16 1''
stitches. 14
8 9 11 15 TR
8 8A 8A
11 8A 8A 8A 8A CLIP INNER CLIP INNER
NOTCH (2.5 cm)
9 11 NOTCH
6 5 CURVES CURVES TRIM 16
6 7 6 6 OUTER TRIM
OUTER TRIM
6 7 CURVES CORNERS
CURVES CORNERS
CLIP INNER
Selvages Selvages NOTCH
CURVES
OUTER TRIM TRIM
6
CURVES CORNERS 9
344
Contrast
Contrast Contrast Fleece
Fleece Fleece 3
4Tulle
TulleTulle TRIM
8 43
8
10 8 3 Contrast Contrast Contrast
Fleece Fleece Fleece
Tulle Tulle Tulle
7 9
10 10
8 33 4
7 9 4
10 CLIP INNER
1 NOTCH
11 8 17
2 CURVES
10aTRIM
6 5 11 OUTER FOLD FOLD FOLD
FOLD FOLD FOLD
9
6 5 9 10 10 12
15
30 31 31a CLIP 32 3854 p.3 TRIM & GRADE
23 24 40
6. Fuse interfacing to wrong side of front Pin pocket to pocket facing, right sides 6. Turn one leg right side out. Place this 8. Pin interfaced side of front waistband to Turn ends of waistband right side41out and
and back facings. VIEW 16
B notches25
TRIM
together, matching and raw edges leg inside other leg, 3854over
p.4
30right sides together. front, right sides together,
3142 at waist seam, press. Fold 31a
free edge
43 of waistband
5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowances are even. Stitch bottom edges 40 of pockets Pin center front 33 41 seams,
and center back matching notches, and ends extending seam allowances and pin in place. On5/8''
right
included. together from side seam to dot, pivot, matching inside leg seams. Stitch from 5/8" (1.5 cm) past pocket opening. Stitch. side, stitch in the ditch. (1.5 cm)
26
and stitch across hem
32a (see illustration). front waist
TRIM to back waist. 5/8''
29 Trim crotch seam Trim waist seam allowances and press
28 together.
Overcast seam allowances allowances to 3/8" (1 cm) and(1.5 cm)
overcast 34
toward waistband.
35
1. Fuse interfacing to 27
wrong side of one
TRIMwaistband, one back waistband, TRIM seam allowances together.
37
30
front 17 31 2431a 32 Press center
3854
back
p.3
23
one pair of side waistbands, and pocket 36 allowances
and center front seam open. TRIM & TRIM
facings. 25 GRADE 5/8''
22 5/8'' (1.5 cm) 38
(1.5 cm) TRIM
7. Stitch back facings 12
to front facing, right CLIP TRIM
11
sides together, at16side seams, matching TRIM
TRIM TRIM
notches. Trim seam allowances and press TRIM
1'' edge of facing.
open. Overcast outer
(2.5 cm) 33 TRIM & GRADE CLIP
TRIM