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Cbs Case Competition GLOBAL 2022
Cbs Case Competition GLOBAL 2022
GLOBAL 2022
CBS CASE COMPETITION GLOBAL 2022 2
Legal Disclaimer
The information presented within this case is the responsibility of the writers
alone. Pandora is subsequently not responsible for any statements, data or
citations put forward in this case. This document cannot be used as a supporting
source outside of CBS Case Competition 2022 and may not be publicly quoted
without the written consent of the authors.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Case Writers
Amandus Witt Brückner, CBS Case Competition 2022
Ray Ga Ming Li, CBS Case Competition 2022
Christian Endres, CBS Case Competition 2022
Josephine Amalie Mærsk-Møller, CBS Case Competition 2022
Special thanks to
Pandora Group
Torben Indahl, Manager, Strategy & Business Development Advisors
Agnese Montagner, Project Manager, Strategy & Business Development Bianca Pollock, Bain & Company
Thomas Adner, SVP Strategy & Business Development Aram Griens, Bain & Company
Kate Walsh, SVP Omnichannel Retail
Raul Duque Ruiz, SVP GBU New Style & Upstream Innovation Case Testers
Mads Twomey-Madsen, VP Corporate Communications & Sustainability Laura Hönig
Marissa Saretsky, Director, Corporate Sustainability Charlotte Reeves Jensen
Victoria Eliseeva, Director, Digital & Technology Strategy Mette Mathiasen
CBS CASE COMPETITION GLOBAL 2022 3
LETTER FROM
THE CEO
I am happy to announce Pandora as the case compa- At Pandora, we believe there is still plenty of poten- to find a way to establish long-lasting relationships
ny for GLOBAL CBS Case Competition 2022. tial to grow our core business. This can be achieved with these groups, which requires new perspectives
by both strengthening our position in the affordable from talented individuals like yourself.
Since our founding in 1982, Pandora has grown from jewellery market, as well as in the countries where
being a small jewellery shop in modest surroundings we have established strong operating units. We This is our challenge and, therefore, I would like to
in Copenhagen to being the world’s best-known strive to make clear and focused choices in what the ask for your input on how we, at Pandora, can reach
jeweller. Pandora established a global foothold with next step for Pandora should be. In order to exploit even more Millennials and Gen Z consumers, as
the launch of Pandora’s charm bracelet line, which the high growth levers, we are highly selective and these are vital consumer groups for us to expand in.
to this day still makes up the core of Pandora’s only invest in financially sustainable propositions. We have set ambitious goals for this next chapter
business. Furthermore, we want to ensure that each big ven- of our journey. The destination has been set, but we
ture has the sufficient resources to succeed and is need help to get there.
2021 has been a great year for Pandora Group. We aligned with the entire value chain. At the end of the
have recently launched our new strategy, which day, we know that excellence in execution is what We, at Pandora, hope that this case will challenge
concludes the end of a big organisational transfor- truly matters. you and we are eager to hear your perspectives on
mation and welcomes a new chapter of growth for this challenge, which will hopefully aid us in our jour-
Pandora. With our new strategy Phoenix, we aim to During our turnaround, we have recognised that ney forward. Thank you for your effort. We wish you
push Pandora towards being the most desirable Pandora still has work to do to cement our place in the best of luck.
brand in the affordable jewellery industry. We be- our customers’ hearts. Going forward, one of the
lieve this is possible by leveraging our strong brand key priorities in this endeavour is to connect with
awareness, our broad distribution network, and our and stay relevant to consumers across the Millen-
strong manufacturing capabilities, while also looking nials and Gen Z, which is vital for remaining at the
beyond our core assets, which will ultimately aid us forefront of our agenda of being the most desirable ALEXANDER LACIK
fuel our brand desirability. brand in the affordable jewellery market. We need CEO & President of Pandora
CBS CASE COMPETITION GLOBAL 2022 4
SETTING THE
STAGE
Over the past decade, Pandora has built the world’s improve production costs and inventories. Despite Pandora has set clear goals and recognised many
biggest affordable jewellery brand, measured both COVID-19 related disruptions, the two-year strategy opportunities worth exploring, yet we are unclear
by number of jewellery pieces sold to consumers was completed in 2020 and the company is well on on how exactly we will get there. And this is precisely
around the world and by consumer awareness of the its way to entering the next growth phase. why you have been tasked to help Pandora on its
Pandora brand. journey onwards. As a result, your challenge will be
Over the next four years, Pandora will move into the following: How can Pandora grow its customer
Over the last couple of years, following a period of the next chapter of growth with the objective of base within Millennial and Gen Z consumers and
revenue stagnation in 2018 and 2019, Pandora has becoming the largest and most desirable brand in achieve an annual revenue growth of 6 to 8% in line
executed a successful turnaround by going back to the affordable jewellery industry. As part of this with the targets set in the Phoenix Strategy?
its core DNA of personal expression and collectable growth journey, Pandora has launched its new strat-
jewellery. The company has worked to restructure its egy ‘Phoenix’ to drive long-term sustainable and Your team now has 24 hours to develop a recom-
business under the strategy “Programme NOW” with profitable growth across its existing core business- mendation that can support Pandora in its next
initiatives to re-establish its competitive position- es. One of the success criteria in this strategy is to phase of growth. Your recommendation should
ing, strengthen the relevance of the brand to con- successfully target new groups of shoppers to fuel be scalable across regions (potentially globally) to
sumers, and stabilise the top line while maintaining their brand desirability and reach. The future of the enable Pandora to deliver on its targets. This will re-
industry leading margins. affordable jewellery industry will increasingly consist quire innovative thinking, as we encourage you to be
of Millennials and Generation Z (Gen Z) consumers, creative and not be restricted by Pandora’s current
A new operating model has resulted in significant as they will make up 60% of the market by 2025, trajectory. Additionally, a successful proposal must
benefits. Since August 2019, the company has seen making it crucial for Pandora to both reach these be a valid business case and in line with Pandora’s Remember to take a
an impressive recovery under a new management consumers and establish meaningful and lasting purpose and ambitions. look at the accompany-
team. In the two years since the launch of Pro- relationships. ing Excel workbook for
gramme Now, Pandora has turned itself around after Your recommendations will be evaluated equally on additional information
successfully halting the decline in revenue. Further- “Our objective is to be the largest and most desira- the following criteria: on store development,
more, Pandora has achieved sustainable profitability ble brand in the affordable-jewellery market, and we • Creativity of the solutions and bold ideas revenue split, financial
by reducing costs in day-to-day operations, specifi- have a strong foundation to deliver on that objec- • Feasibility of implementing the recommendations statements, selected
cally in production, stores, IT, and administration, as tive.” – Alexander Lacik, CEO & President of Pandora • Validity of the business case demographics and
well as by simplifying their portfolio of products to • Visualisation of presentation and storytelling other data points
5
CONTENTS
INTERNAL EXTERNAL
6
INSIDE
11
STRATEGY
34
THE JEWELRY
PANDORA INDUSTRY
12 Phoenix Strategy
7 Timeline 13 Core Markets 35 The future of the affordable jewelry industry
8 Purpose & strategic objective 14 Design 36 Branded vs. Unbranded jewelry
9 Organization and key capabilities 15 Personalization 36 Emulating fast fashion
10 The business model at a glance 16 Brand 37 Moving sales and communication online
38 The competitive landscape
17
CAPABILITIES
26
UNDERSTANDING
39
CONSUMERS TRENDS
OF PANDORA PANDORA’S
40 Consumer behavior and attitudes
CUSTOMER BASE
18 The Pandora network 41 Outlook for Millennials and Gen Z
20 Building for a digital future 42 Consumer attitudes in North America
27 Enduring Concept Platforms (ECP)
25 Product portfolio 43 Consumer attitudes in Asia Pacific
30 Sustainability initiatives
31 Snapshot of Pandora’s financials
32 Distribution and communication
44 Closing statements
45 Appendix
46 From idea to finished product
47 Unaided brand awareness across core markets
48 Roll out of digital initiatives
6
INSIDE
PANDORA
7 Timeline
8 Pandora’s Purpose & Strategic Objective
9 Organization and Key Capabilities
10 The Business Model at a Glance
CBS CASE COMPETITION GLOBAL 2022 7
TIMELINE
The Pandora story all started in 1982 in a small jew- In 2000, Pandora’s charm bracelet concept was Today, Pandora is a leading, global jewellery man-
eller’s shop in modest surroundings in Copenhagen, launched in the Danish market. Consumers em- ufacturer and has become the signature brand for
Denmark, and was founded by Danish goldsmith Per braced the concept and in the following years, its production of Danish jewellery and for its charm
Enevoldsen and his wife Winne Enevoldsen. From the driven by growing demand, the company began to bracelets. Pandora’s products are available in more
very beginning, they would often travel to Thailand expand internationally, entering new markets such than 100 countries on six continents through more
in search of jewellery to import. As demand for the as the United States, Germany and Australia. In the than 7,000 points of sale, including around 2,600
products increased, their focus gradually shifted following years, Pandora both rapidly expanded its concept stores.
towards wholesale to clients in Denmark. market presence to an international sales platform
as well as increased its own production capacity,
opening four production facilities in Thailand.
1982 - Per and Winnie 2003 - Pandora enters 2008 - Danish Private Equity 2010 - Third and fourth production facility is inaugurated 2017 - New crafting facility
Enevoldsen found the American and Cana- firm, Axcel, acquires 60% of in Thailand. Public listing on the NASDAQ OMX Copenhagen opens in Lamphun, near Chiang
Pandora dian markets Pandora. Pandora inaugu- stock exchange. Pandora launches Black Crown Diamond Mai in Northern Thailand
rates its second production Watches. Pandora enters new, large markets including Russia,
facility in Thailand. Pandora Italy, and China. Pandora acquires full ownership of its distri-
launches LovePods bution in Australia and Central Western Europe
1989 - Company starts 2005 - Pandora opens its 2012 - Pandora celebrates 2014 - Pandora signs a stra- 2019 - Pandora kicks off
manufacturing its first large scale, fully owned its 30th anniversary. New tegic alliance with The Walt global brand relaunch
jewellery in Thailand production facility in Gem- pavé products are launched Disney Company. Ring sales
opolis, Thailand. Pandora reach 10% of Group revenue
establishes its presence in
the UK and in Spain
1987 - First in-house 2004 - Pandora enters 2009 - Subsidiaries are established 2013 - Pandora ESSENCE Collec- 2016 - New Lockets concept
designer joins Pandora new, large markets, in the UK, Hong Kong, and Poland. tion is launched. Concept store is launched. Concept store
including Australia and Pandora launches Liquid Silver no. 1,000 opens no. 2,000 opens
Germany
2000 - Pandora 2007 - Pandora 2011 - New necklace concept is launched. Pandora takes over 2018 - New Leadership in 2020 - Pandora launches its
introduces its charm launches its Compose direct distribution in France. Pandora opens store number Energy and Environmental Digital Hub close to its global
bracelet earrings concept 100 in Asia. Company appoints its first Chief Creative Officer. Design (LEED) Gold crafting headquarters in Copenha-
+1 million Pandora fans on Facebook, +2 million Pandora Club facility is inaugurated in gen, Denmark
members Gemopolis, Thailand
8
PANDORA’S PURPOSE
WE GIVE A VOICE
TO PEOPLE’S LOVES
ORGANISATION AND
KEY CAPABILITIES
Entering new markets early on in the company’s his- Corporate authority is shared between the board
tory was largely brought about through third party of directors and executive management, which exist Board of Directors
distributors, which allowed for rapid expansion. In independently of each other. The board outlines the
2020, with the completion of Programme NOW, overall visions, strategies and objectives of Pando-
Executive management
Pandora was reorganised to move closer to con- ra’s business activities and supervises the perfor-
sumers. Local markets were brought closer to the mance of the executive management. The members Alexander Lacik
Global Office by dismantling three regional organi- of the executive management are appointed by the CEO
sations and, instead, setting up two global business board. The executive management is responsible for
Erik Schmidt Anders Boyer
units with product responsibility across the full day-to-day management and for the execution of CHRO CFO
value chain. The Moments & Collaborations Global Pandora’s strategy. The members of the executive
Business Unit is responsible for the core products, management team are responsible for the day-to- Jeerasage
Stephen Fairchild Puranasamriddhi
CPO
including Pandora Moments, Charms and collabo- day operations of their respective business areas, CSO
rations, while the Style and Upstream innovation while also being part of the overall management of
David Walmsley Martino Pessina
Global Business Unit drives development of newer Pandora. CDTO CCO
product categories and innovations. The new units
are responsible for concept development, design, Carla Liuni
CMO
execution, and marketing plans across the full value
chain. The organisational restructure has enabled
Pandora to move more towards own-operated retail
stores, allowing for greater control, and to stream-
line channels globally.
STRATEGY
12 Phoenix Strategy
13 Core Markets
14 Design
15 Personalization
16 Brand
CBS CASE COMPETITION GLOBAL 2022 12
PHOENIX
STRATEGY
WE GIVE The strategy is built on leveraging some of the com- an EBIT margin that is expected to increase to 25-
A VOICE TO petitive advantages Pandora possesses, including its 27% in 2023. Pandora partly bets on sell-out growth,
CORE MARKETS
Grow our core markets with particular In China, Pandora is currently developing a plan cen-
focus on the US and China tred around consumer, brand, marketing, product,
Pandora sees significant opportunities to grow in retail and digital insights. The primary priority is
existing markets, rather than expanding into new brand, as the unaided brand awareness of Pandora
geographies. In particular, Pandora will focus on in China stood at only 19% in 2020, which is signif-
untapped opportunities in the US and China – icantly lower than in other key markets. Consum-
markets where Pandora’s brand penetration is still ers are therefore less familiar with Pandora’s key
low. The US and China represent more than 50% of attributes, such as collectability, personalisation and Be aware that China
the global jewellery market, and they will continue affordability. Pandora is planning to increase media and the US are high-
to increase in importance with a significant part of investments as well as introduce market-specific lighted here as prime
the absolute market growth driven by these two products built for its unique calendar to align with targets for growth,
markets. As such, Pandora plans to invest over-pro- Chinese consumer preferences. but they are just two
portionally in the US and China. of seven key markets
In the US, Pandora has recently developed a growth (China, US, France,
plan, leveraging the company’s strong commercial Germany, Italy, UK,
traction by further driving brand awareness via in- Australia). In the long
vestment in media as the unaided brand awareness term, Pandora also
3X 2X of Pandora stands at 26%, which is likewise lower
than in other key markets. The company also plans
recognises growth
avenues beyond the
LONG TERM OPPORTUNITY LONG TERM AMBITION
on expanding its consumer base, including winning Phoenix strategy, such
with Gen Z, and to further drive network expansion, as potential M&A op-
as current concept store penetrations in the US are portunities, geograph-
lower than in other core markets and unevenly bal- ical expansion and new
Revenue growth ambitions in China and the US anced, being strongest in the northeast and weakest product segments
are long-term and versus 2019 figures in the west. (platforms).
CBS CASE COMPETITION GLOBAL 2022 14
DESIGN
Create customer-centric innovation With the introduction of the “Launch & Leverage”
Pandora sees significant potential to both grow its concept, Pandora aims to create new platforms
biggest platform, Moments, and launch new com- without disrupting or cannibalising its existing
plementary platforms around their core proposi- platforms, such as ME and Brilliance. Management’s
tion of collectability and self-expression. Designs ambition is to launch new platforms in the future
will be crafted by fusing robust consumer insights on the existing infrastructure, which will be tested,
and strong creative expression. To ensure that new adjusted and scaled (or stopped). A platform needs
product platforms become successful and add in- to account for at least 5% of total revenue to be
cremental volume, Pandora will use these insights to meaningful and therefore have the potential to
design for different needs and target groups. drive growth going forward.
CREATE NEW
PLATFORMS NEXT
Other platforms
TO MOMENTS
Moments
30%
Other platforms
Moments
30% 70%
2021 FUTURE
PERSONALISATION
OBJECTIVES:
BRAND
D
Fuel brand desirability and reach offers, particularly across their concept stores. This
Pandora is a global brand with a direct relationship is also typically where co-creation with the custom-
with millions of consumers. This connection pro- er takes place. With more than 75% of all trans-
vides rich insights that can help the company offer actions being direct, the aim is to provide a more
a better and more personalised service throughout relevant and customised omnichannel shopping
the whole customer journey. A significant part of journey to bridge offline and online channels.
this experience is the personalised service Pandora
ES:
DRIVE A HOLISTIC
NCREASE BRAND WIN WITH GEN Z & DRIVE A HOLISTIC
17
CAPABILITIES
OF PANDORA
18 The Pandora network
20 Building for a digital future
22 Product portfolio
CBS CASE COMPETITION GLOBAL 2022 18
Concept stores
Even though Pandora has reduced its number of Germany China
franchised stores, they are still a big part of its 135 219
business and so it is always looking into new, great
opportunities for network expansion.
less, Pandora produces over 100 million pieces of ”Makes me feel unique, special” (105)
jewellery every year. Source: Global Brand Tracker 2020, incl. AU, CA, CN, DE, ES, FR, IT, RU, UK and US (n= 4,025)
BUILDING FOR
A DIGITAL FUTURE
Pandora’s focus is to use technology to create Pandora’s digital capabilities are grouped into four
deeper, more connected, relationships with its cus- main areas:
tomers. Internalising digital operations instead of Online platforms
outsourcing allows for more focused and controlled Digital Development & Retail Tech - Developing and Pandora’s online presence is notable and comparable
data analytics and building of digital platforms. operating Pandora’s digital and tech solutions to with industry peers. With its large social media fol-
From a strategic perspective, the reason for adding enable the best shopper experience, both online lowing and significant online community, Pandora can
and developing internal capabilities is simple: if and in stores. leverage this to further strengthen its brand aware-
Pandora can provide additional value to customers ness and communicate new campaigns. A key trait
by enhancing their customer experience, this can be Marketing Technology - Responsible for capturing of Pandora’s campaigning is to target ‘hinters’ and
leveraged to avoid competing solely on price when consumer data effectively, create data-based in- ‘gifters’. Since a lot of Pandora jewellery is gifted, Pan-
capturing new customers. sights and promote Pandora’s brand and products. dora targets ‘hinters’ before an upcoming holiday, to
encourage the eventual recipient of the gifted jew-
The disruptions caused by COVID-19 in Pandora’s Advanced Analytics - Driving Pandora’s data-driven ellery to give hints to their significant other or family
retail operations as well as social distancing forced growth agenda and responsible for generating in- member. The ‘gifter’ is then targeted in the period
Pandora’s brick-and-mortar stores to temporarily sights and unlocking business value from analytics. just before the holiday, as Pandora recognises a spike
close, thus further accelerating Pandora’s invest- in sales in this period. Pandora still recognises a large
ments in digital initiatives to become more resilient. eCommerce & Digital Operations - Responsible for untapped potential in its online presence. How can
ecommerce commercial and operational perfor- Pandora further leverage its existing online platforms
Across the world, Pandora’s teams are collaborat- mance, in order to ensure that Pandora delivers to engage with Gen Z and Millennial consumers?
ing to drive the digital journey by revamping the against its commercial plan and promise.
digital landscape and increase ecommerce perfor-
mance. With the establishment of the Digital Hub ”The Digital Hub is our community of makers and
in Copenhagen, a new division, consisting of almost doers, the centre of Pandora’s digital and techno-
100 software engineers, user experience designers logical creativity. We have purposefully designed 18 million 17.3 million 8.4 million
and web and data analysts, has been tasked with our workspaces, team structures and how we work Pandora club Facebook followers on
strengthening Pandora’s digital presence and om- together to spark innovation, collaboration and members followers instagram
nichannel capabilities and transform its customers’ transparency.” - David Walmsley, Chief Digital & worldwide
shopping experience using digital solutions and Technology Officer.
data insights at scale.
CBS CASE COMPETITION GLOBAL 2022 21
Digital initiatives
Pandora continuously develops exciting new ini-
tiatives to improve the customer experience and
journey with the brand. Some of the new initiatives
are partly fuelled by the COVID-19 pandemic, which
forced stores to temporarily close, while others
stem from a wish to be as convenient and consist-
Online 3D bracelet builder platform
ent for the customer as possible.
Available in select key markets, Pandora
FAST OMNICHANNEL ROLL-OUT
has brought much of the in-store expe-
Click & Collect / Buy online, return in store - Even Number of stores
rience online with the bracelet builder.
Click & Collect Endless Aisle
though it might seem quite simple, this can be a
1,000 The customer can see a 3D render of their
special challenge when dealing with large inven- 861
800 desired bracelet that is customisable to
tories across the product portfolio and physical 600 the same extent as in a physical store.
stores, which are partly own-and-operated stores 400 414
This allows for a simple and convenient
and partly franchises. Succeeding with Click & 200 174
0 0 4 design that easily converts into a sale with
Collect and Buy online, return in store gives the cus-
2018 2019 2020 a click of a button.
tomer even more options to engage with Pandora in
a fluent experience, potentially driving up recurring
visits. As of 2021, Pandora has rolled out its Click &
Collect in the US, the UK, France, Italy, Germany and
Australia.
Endless Aisle (Go in store, buy online) - A great cus- Online virtual try-on Video chat with sales
tomer experience is often achieved by proper guid- Similar to the bracelet builder, the virtual representatives
ance. In all of Pandora’s stores, staff are educated try-on is a feature that brings a physical As regulations due to the pandemic have
in their product catalogue and in providing sound element of the customer journey online. challenged how physical stores are op-
customer service. With Endless Aisle, Pandora can The virtual try-on works by taking a photo erated, Pandora has found a way to work
provide a great in-person experience, while bene- of your wrist and uploading it to the Pan- around this and is leveraging its educated
fiting from the convenience of ecommerce. This is dora’s website, where the desired piece staff by equipping them with tablets. This
accomplished by setting up tablets in-store, which of jewellery is transferred onto the photo feature allows the customer to engage
customers can easily navigate to find their desired to simulate trying on the jewellery. Pan- with a sales representative either online,
jewellery in the right size and colour and have it dora works continuously to build a more wherever the customer is located, or in-
shipped directly to their home. Endless Aisles has sophisticated version of this feature to al- store if need be.
been rolled out to cover major European markets, low for a more immersive VR experience.
the US and Australia.
CBS CASE COMPETITION GLOBAL 2022 22
PRODUCT
PORTFOLIO
Pandora’s universe of jewellery is customer-cen-
tred, offering vast opportunities for personal ex-
pression and creative themes, and aims to deliver
superior value for its customers. Pandora is pres-
ent across five product categories: Charms, Brace-
lets, Rings, Earrings and Necklaces & Pendants.
While Charms and Bracelets remain by far the
largest product category, generating about 70%
of total group sales, the other categories, particu-
larly rings, are continuing to increase their share
of total revenue. Rather than offering its products
by category, Pandora offers a full cross-category
proposition and has launched several collections,
each with its distinct features.
Collaborations
A big part of Pandora Moments is Col-
laborations. Pandora has partnered up
with well-known brands, such as Dis- Pandora Timeless Pandora Signature
ney, Star Wars, and Harry Potter. These Utilising the same raw materials as Moments, Sharing aspects of Moments and Timeless,
collaborations materialise as charms Timeless is made mainly from sterling silver, Signature offers the best of both worlds by
with characters and icons from well- sometimes coated with yellow or rose gold. Time- encouraging customisation and ‘stacking’,
known universes. Pandora plans to less is different in the sense that - as the name while also offering an elegant and clean de-
expand these collaborations from suggests - it comprises timeless designs, offering sign. Pieces from this collection are meant to
not only huge franchises, but also cult a more elegant and classier look, but still within an be combined and mixed, giving the customer
collaborations within art, fashion, and affordable price range. The Timeless collection is the opportunity to develop their own ‘signa-
music. By continuously adjusting and an especially popular Mother’s Day gift. ture’ style.
expanding its collections to meet its
targeted customer needs, collabora- “Define your signature style with effortless
tions will play an increasingly bigger and sophisticated statement jewellery – the
part in their collections. “A timeless, elegant and versatile collection designs you deserve”
with sparkling stones as the centrepiece, for
those you cherish and those that cherish you”
CBS CASE COMPETITION GLOBAL 2022 24
Pandora Brilliance
With the launch of the Pandora Brilliance platform,
the company wants to democratise diamonds and
is the first Pandora product to be carbon neutral.
Bringing together timeless and elegant designs with Every diamond in the collection is a sustainably collection have been produced with more than
Pandora’s core values of affordable and person- lab-created diamond. This means that they have 60% renewable energy on average. When Pandora
alised jewellery, the Brilliance collection features achieved CarbonNeutral® product certification launches the collection globally, the diamonds are
sustainably lab-created diamonds. These stones are in accordance with the CarbonNeutral Protocol. expected to be made using 100% renewable energy.
physically, chemically and optically identical to their Pandora works in collaboration with Natural Capital
mined counterparts, but they are created above Partners to create sustainably produced diamonds, Brilliance is predominately aimed at millennial wom-
ground. They are a remarkable example of how where all greenhouse gas emissions associated with en and, while the lab-made diamonds are on aver-
innovation can replicate nature’s process and do so the creation of the diamonds (Scopes 1, 2, and 3) age half the price of mined diamonds (for the same
in a sustainable way. This also results in diamonds have been calculated and subsequently offset by carat), the price point of this collection is higher
that are offered at a lower price point than mined supporting a carbon finance project. To date, the than the other Pandora collections. The initial prices
diamonds, making them more accessible. lab-created diamonds in the Pandora Brilliance will range from DKK 2,100 to DKK 11,000.
26
UNDERSTANDING
PANDORA’S
CUSTOMER BASE
27 Enduring Concept Platforms (ECP)
30 Sustainability initiatives
31 Snapshot of Pandora’s financials
32 Distribution and communication
CBS CASE COMPETITION GLOBAL 2022 27
ENDURING CONCEPT
PLATFORMS (ECP)
For Pandora, it is all about offering the consumers
the desired products at the right place, time, and
price. Fundamentally, Pandora has distinguished Be aware that this is
between three types of purchases: Self-purchase, Pandora’s own seg-
males gifting females and females gifting females. mentation and is based
In addition to the three purchasing occasions, Pan- on the consumer needs 7%, 84 bn DKK
5%, 60 bn DKK
11%, 133 Bn DKK
dora differentiates jewellery industry consumers by identified by Pandora
their preferred brands within fashion and lifestyle
and their way of self-expression.
37 41 44
33 31 29
24 19
11 17
7 9
ASPIRATION
AL BRANDS
Gen Z Millennial Gen X Baby Gen Z Millennial Gen X Baby Gen Z Millennial Gen X Baby
Boomer Boomer Boomer
GIVE A VOICE
TO PEOPLE’S LOVES
COLLECTION
PANDORA
COLLABS COLLABS PANDORA PANDORA PANDORA
BRILLIANCE
PANDORA MOMENTS EXISTING NEW TIMELESS ME SIGNATURE
NEW
PRODUCT
IMAGE DESCRIPTOR
CONSUMER ECP
Mark an Occasion
NEED
28
CBS CASE COMPETITION GLOBAL 2022 31
SUSTAINABILITY
INITIATIVES Raw material acquisition Diamond synthesis Cutting and polishing
Pandora’s sustainability agenda can be described as has in 2021 committed to science-based targets of TRANSPORT TRANSPORT
CH SYNTHETIC
highly ambitious. It aims to be a frontrunner of what reducing carbon emissions across the whole value TRANSPORT
DIAMOND SEEDS
the jewellery industry can and should strive to be by chain. NATURAL GAS
EXTRACTION
HIGH PURITY METHANE
PRODUCTION
embed sustainability considerations throughout the By 2025, Pandora has committed to using 100%
TRANSPORT
DIAMOND SYNTHESIS
PROCESS
whole value chain of the business, ensuring sustain- recycled silver and gold in its jewellery collections.
HARD COAL HYDROGEN GAS
MINING PRODUCTION
able practices from sourcing to sale. Specifically, Crafting materials accounted for the largest
Pandora has highlighted three strategic priorities emissions in 2020 at 21%. Pandora strives to ensure
that would improve the company’s sustainability that the raw materials used both in the crafting
performance, while also increasing resilience and of its jewellery and the development of point-of- counterparts. In 2021, Pandora launched its first
attractiveness in the marketplace: low-carbon sales materials and other in-store fixtures have the collection within sustainably lab-created diamonds,
business, circular innovation and an inclusive & fair lowest impact. In 2020, silver represented 50% of Pandora Brilliance, in the UK. According to a study by
culture. the overall purchased product materials by weight. the environmental consultancy Trucost, the envi-
Around 60% of the gold and silver used in Pandora’s ronmental cost of man-made diamonds is less than
Low-carbon business products was recycled. A shift to recycled silver and 0.01% of that of a mined diamond, largely due to the
By 2025, Pandora will become carbon-neutral across gold will reduce CO2 emissions and other environ- vastly smaller quantity of energy required in pro-
its operations. In 2020, the company established mental impacts, since recycling metals requires duction. More specifically, lab-made diamonds use
sourcing of 100% renewable energy at its crafting fewer resources than mining new metals and reduces 5,000 times less CO2 and 3,000 times less water
facilities in Thailand via solar panels. dependence on hazardous mining. per carat than a mined diamond.
SNAPSHOT OF
UK
PANDORA’S KEY MARKETS DKK 2960
Share of revenue, % and DKKm 16%
For Pandora, 2020 was a paradox from a finan- Total sell-out growth
cial standpoint. On the one hand, the pandemic % Australia
forced the company to temporarily close most of its 10 DKK 1120
physical stores, causing revenue to decline dramat- 6%
France
ically. On the other hand, the end of 2020 marked 0
DKK 1154
a milestone in the company’s turnaround, reigniting 6%
the desire for Pandora and particularly the digital -10
initiatives.
US Italy
-20
DKK 4505 DKK 2021
The impact of lockdowns and social restrictions in
24% 11%
physical stores has skewed the channel mix towards -30
DISTRIBUTION AND
COMMUNICATION
Touchpoints financial year with more than 345 million visitors. Will
Concept stores - A concept store is a full-blown this be sustainable going forward?
Pandora store which carries a complete assortment
of Pandora products, has a branded Pandora store Click & Collect / Buy Online Return in Store - Some of
front and is furnished only with Pandora fittings the features previously described bridge the online
and displays. Pandora’s concept stores are either and offline touchpoints with the customer. Rather
owned-and-operated or franchised. The company than engaging with the customer solely online or
currently operates 2,616 concept stores across all offline, these tools allow Pandora to engage with
markets, of which 1,403 stores are owned-and-op- customers across channels to encourage further
erated. exchanges and even upselling, rather than simply
refunding original purchases. This feature continues
Shop-in-shops - A shop-in-shop is a clearly defined to generate strong traction in the US market, where
space in an arcade or department store dedicated ~10-15% of online sales come from Click & Collect.
to Pandora. The shop-in-shop has Pandora fittings 3rd Party Distribution and Social commerce - Social
and displays and carries a wide assortment of Pan- platforms and marketplaces are rapidly evolving to
dora products. The shop-in-shop will typically look develop more functions that span across even more
very much like a concept store on the inside (except touchpoints along the customer journey, and this has
smaller), although generally without the Pandora intensified under COVID-19. However, Pandora pre- “Eight out of ten
branded store front. fers to invest in its own physical store footprint and leveraged or innovated to engage with Gen Z and women globally are
its own online platform rather than joining larger 3rd Millennial consumers? aware of our brand, so
eCommerce - Pandora has experienced a substan- party ecommerce marketplaces, such as Amazon or I don’t need to make
tial increase in its online sales channels, particularly FarFetch. Pandora Club and Email marketing – Utilising you aware of me. What
during COVID-19, leveraging its omnichannel capa- Pandora Club data, email marketing will continue I need to do is to show
bilities through the pandora.net website. Pandora’s However, unlike in Western markets, Chinese con- to be an important driver of sales. Pandora Club you what I’ve got, and
online stores are shifting to the new visual identity sumers purchase luxury goods not only from brand- was established more than 10 years ago and now I can do this much
with significantly improved listing and product pages owned websites but also from 3rd party marketplac- has 18 million members. In Q420, the conversion better if I have a direct
that optimise navigation and check-out flow, while es, such as T-mall and JD.com, and social channel rate increased by 43% YoY and visits through email relationship with my
also incorporating story-telling content throughout. platforms, including WeChat and Douyin. In 2020, also increased 61% YoY. How can Pandora continue customer.” – Alexander
Its online stores have especially grown during the WeChat boasted about 1.2 billion monthly active to leverage its digital platforms and strengthen the Lacik, CEO & President
COVID-19 pandemic, growing 103% YoY in the 2020 users. In what ways can these channels be further relationship with its customers? of Pandora
34
THE JEWELLERY
INDUSTRY
35 The future of the affordable jewellery industry
36 Branded vs. Unbranded jewellery
36 Emulating fast fashion
37 Moving sales and communication online
38 The competitive landscape
CBS CASE COMPETITION GLOBAL 2022 35
OF THE AFFORDABLE
14 18
24 20
827 17
17
13 19
23 16
772 16
12 18
JEWELLERY INDUSTRY
22 16 304
15
705 17 290
11 15
20 273
13
14
13 254
228
526
497
The jewellery market has experienced strong growth consumer spending across the globe is expected to 467
437
and offered high margins over the last decade. With vary by geography and consumer segment. 406
Source: BCG x Alta Gamma (2021): True Luxury Global Consumer Insight 8th edition
CBS CASE COMPETITION GLOBAL 2022 37
MOVING SALES
AND COMMUNICATION
ONLINE
Jewellery sales are traditionally associated with the relationship between offline and online channels Personal luxury growth trends by channel
a one-on-one personalised service and inspiring to develop experiences that capture more of the
in-store experiences that do not easily translate online jewellery market. With online sales expected +11%
online. With online jewellery purchases accelerated to grow from 16% to around 21% of the overall market
7%
because of the pandemic, brands and retailers are between 2021 and 2025, DKK 150 bn is at stake, as 10% -23%
now more inclined than ever to better understand the bulk of these sales will come from affordable 17% 11%
branded jewellery. This is credited to the fact that 5%
6% 14%
producers can target a somewhat standardised
Sales of affordable jewellery 15%
product segment in which consumers know exactly 39%
by channel
DKK. Bn. what they are purchasing.
1,576
Source: BCG x Alta Gamma (2021): True Luxury Global Consumer Insight 8th edition
CBS CASE COMPETITION GLOBAL 2022 38
THE COMPETITIVE
LANDSCAPE
The global jewellery market is a highly fragmented Key distinctive competitive advantages for Pandora to entry, further contributing to the saturation of the Market Share - Global
industry with no clear market leader. However, Pan- are its ability to upsell to consumers with charms as jewellery market.
Chow Tai Fook 2.70%
dora is among the largest market players globally. well as the ability to scale production along with its Lao Feng Xiang 2.50%
On a global scale, Pandora competes with other vertically integrated model by controlling the majori- In the past, most of the growth in branded jewellery Cartier 1.90%
Tiffany & Co 1.60%
global brands, such as Cartier, Chow Tai Fook, Tiffany ty of its supply chain. came from the expansion of established jewel- Pandora 1.40%
& Co. and Swarovski. However, many of the biggest lery brands. By contrast, future growth in branded Lao Miao 1.10%
Tanishq 0.80%
brands have an average price significantly higher Local and niche affordable jewellery players contin- jewellery is likely to come from non-jewellery players Bvlgari 0.70%
than Pandora, thereby appealing to vastly different ue to rise and have the capabilities to compete and in adjacent categories, such as high-end apparel or Van Cleef & Arpels 0.60%
Malabar Gold 0.60%
customer segments. To grow in different markets, it take market share from Pandora at a regional level, leather goods – brands such as Dior, Hermès and Rest of world 86.70%
is crucial to have an eye on local players as well as but they generally do not have the brand awareness Louis Vuitton - introducing jewellery collections or
fashion brands who offer jewellery at a similar price or ability to scale to a global presence in comparison expanding their assortment. Tapping into the trend
point to Pandora. to Pandora. Niche players generally have low barriers of branded jewellery will therefore not necessarily be
a safe haven, as fashion brands are likely to expand
The competitive landscape of the jewellery market within this domain.
CONSUMERS
TRENDS
40 Consumer behavior and attitudes
41 Outlook for Millennials and Gen Z
42 Consumer attitudes in North America
43 Consumer attitudes in Asia Pacific
CBS CASE COMPETITION GLOBAL 2022 40
CONSUMER BEHAVIOUR
AND ATTITUDES
The business landscape is currently undergoing Globally, consumers are also becoming more chan- Great demand exists within personalization services
dramatic changes, some of which have been ac- nel agnostic, expecting consistency, and demanding
celerated by COVID-19. As a result of the continued a more personalised experience. Within personal-
outbreak of COVID-19, there have also been funda- isation, the four following factors have the largest
mental shifts in consumer behaviour and demand impact on improving the customer experience: Personalisation
72%
for affordable jewellery. personalised treatment in-store, personal shopper, Personalised treatment
in-store
targeted recommendations and being recognised 39%
Exclusive access to
As a result of COVID-19, digitisation in the jewel- as the same customer across channels. Personalised events and contents
lery industry has become increasingly important, in-store treatments are most popular with Baby 58%
not solely considered for special occasions anymore. trust completely. Thus, as the consumers are more
Thus, there has been a trend of growing diversity in educated in sustainable practices and observant
Delivery services anywhere Personal shopper
styles and shopping behaviours, especially among of greenwashing, the relevance of transparency and 12% 12%
Gen Z and Millennials. 36% of Millennials globally social responsibility is steadily growing and can help
state that they regularly buy small treats because secure higher consumer trust.
Digital and omnichannel
they feel that they deserve them.
Physical and in-person
Source: BCG x Alta Gamma (2021): True Luxury Global Consumer Insight 8th edition
CBS CASE COMPETITION GLOBAL 2022 41
OUTLOOK FOR
MILLENNIALS
AND GEN Z
In terms of the two demographic cohorts that will
drive the affordable luxury market, Gen Z and Mil-
lennials are emerging as a critical growth lever for
the sector. Gen Z and Millennials will have significant
influence on the overall market through trendsetting
and digital engagements, such as Instagram, Snap-
chat and TikTok. By 2025, 60% of the total luxury
personal goods market is expected to be made up
of Millennial consumption. Millennials and Gen Z are
expected to increase their share of consumption by
Luxury personal goods market by generation
1.5x and 3x respectively by 2025.
+19%
Large price tags no longer represent the same
7.50%
barrier to selling jewellery online as they once did,
but customers still expect a high-end experience.
However, while Millennials have shifted much more
Baby Boomers 23% 32.50%
towards online shopping, Gen Z are embracing shop-
ping across all channels. Gen Z are more inclined to “If you look at Generation Z
shop in whatever channel is the most convenient, 60+% and Millennials, by 2025 they
of total market
whether that be offline, online, or somewhere in Gen X 38%
are expected to constitute
between.
47.50% over 60% of the luxury
Winning over these cohorts means adhering to a consumption in the world
growing shift towards more value-driven spending Millenials 35%
so we need to sharpen our
and delivering products that can relate to the atti-
tudes of Millennials and Gen Z Gen Z 4%
12.50%
pens.” – Alexander Lacik,
2019 2025E CEO & President of Pandora
Source: BCG x Alta Gamma (2021): True Luxury Global Consumer Insight 8th edition
CBS CASE COMPETITION GLOBAL 2022 42
CONSUMER ATTITUDES
IN NORTH AMERICA
Looking at consumer behaviour by generation, Trends within live-streaming purchasing
companies that can capture the Millennials and
No Yes No, would not consider 8% 6% 7% 4%
Gen Z stand to enjoy financial growth in years to
China 14%
come. In 2015, Millennials surpassed Baby Boomers 26%
27% 73% No, would consider 22% 6%
as the largest living generation in the US. Millenni- 30%
als already spend DKK 6 trillion and the expected 46% 27%
spending power is expected to rise to DKK 54 trillion US
30% 24%
by 2025 versus DKK 52 trillion for Gen X and DKK 7 45% 55%
Yes, immediately after 34% 20%
Source: BCG x Alta Gamma (2021): True Luxury Global Consumer Insight 8 edition
th
Source: McKinsey (2020): The young and the restless: Generation Z in America
CBS CASE COMPETITION GLOBAL 2022 43
CONSUMER ATTITUDES
IN ASIA PACIFIC I prefer brands that can I prefer brands that
customize their products for me, offer tailored services,
% who strongly agree or agree % who strongly agree or agree
Across Asia Pacific, almost a third of Gen Zs spend their budget. Furthermore, China’s Gen Z are the 51% 53%
six hours or longer a day on their phones, a consider- most spontaneous of all, with 47% saying they buy 45%
ably higher share than Millennials and Gen X, which products on the go. This behaviour is driven partly by
37%
could explain why some of the primary influences in robust confidence in future earnings as they believe
33%
brand decisions for Gen Z come from social media that they will earn much more in the future. The com- 31%
CLOSING STATEMENTS
Pandora is already at the forefront of delivering and complexity of Pandora’s organisational setup
quality affordable luxury jewellery globally, while and global footprint. Remember to clearly state any
also driving the sustainability agenda in the indus- assumptions made in your analysis to ensure that
try. However, with changing consumer demands and your solutions are feasible, viable and aligned with
a highly competitive industry, it is imperative that Pandora’s mission and vision.
Pandora adapts to changing consumer behaviours
and continues to innovate. “Great solutions can come from anywhere. We’re
convinced that you will come up with exciting and
Pandora is in a unique position to capitalise on these innovative ideas that we haven’t thought of. Do keep
dynamics, with a strong portfolio of collections and in mind that Pandora is a global company and that
a clear vision to benefit not only shareholders, but we have the capacity to execute at large scale, al-
society as a whole. With the guiding marks of the lowing us to think more ambitiously. We have moved
Phoenix strategy recently finalised, it is now time mountains in the past. We can do it again with your
to decide which investments and initiatives will be help.” - Alexander Lacik, CEO & President of Pandora
needed to secure the long-term success of the group.
As you embark upon this task, keep in mind the size
45
APPENDIX
46 From idea to finished product
47 Unaided brand awareness across core markets
48 Roll out of digital initiatives
CBS CASE COMPETITION GLOBAL 2022 46
FROM IDEA TO
FINISHED PRODUCT 13 Polish and tumbling - Every piece of jewellery is polished
in a special tumbler machine to smooth and bluff the sur-
face before ultrasonic cleaning removes any residue.
1 The design process - Comprising six steps that transform 6 Burnout ovens - The wax trees are then placed into metal
ideas into real, tangible prototypes, they begin by identify- cylinders that are filled with liquid gypsum and heated in 14 Surface textures - This step creates different surface
ing current trends, gathering customer feedback and eval- a burnout oven for several hours, baking the gypsum into a effects on metals, such as high shine and diamond pointing,
uating local market needs. Afterwards the design depart- hard plaster. The process leaves chambers in the plaster, which creates an intriguing texture that is both matt and
ment begins to create mood boards that shape each new shaped as the jewellery master. brilliant without using stones. Originating in the 17th century
collection. Sketches of individual designs are created and and reinvented for jewellery in the last century, the tech-
continually adjusted to ensure the final design is perfect. 7 Casting - The plaster moulds then go into a casting ma- nique involves using a diamond-pointed tool to prick the
chine into which silver or gold alloy is poured. The metal surface of the metal to create the effect.
2 Design and sample development - All new jewellery design alloy melts down into the forms, replicating the jewellery
ideas are shaped into prototypes throughout a lengthy master. 15 Oxidation and plating - In this step, special finishes are
design process with the design team and craftspeople. In added to selected high-quality metals to create different
the final stage of the design process, the final designs are 8 Cleaning - When the plaster casts have cooled down, the tones and contrasts. Finishes include oxidisation, electric
selected by Pandora representatives for launch in the new metal trees are removed from inside and cleaned to remove coating (also known as electrophoretic painting) and plating
collection. any residue. on Pandora’s unique metal blends - ruthenium, 14k gold and
14k rose gold.
3 Rubber mould cutting - a rubber mould is created by 9 Cutting and grinding - The jewellery forms are cut from the
pressing several layers of rubber around the jewellery mas- tree. Any surplus metal is refined and reused. The nub of the 16 Enamelling and gluing - Colours are mixed in-house and
ter and vulcanising the form. This chemical process converts metal left behind when cutting the piece from the tree is the glossy, hardwearing enamel is applied to the jewellery
natural rubber into a more durable material using sulphur. removed, preparing the metal for further refinement. by hand using a thin needle, or by hand-painting for shaded
The jewellery master is cut away, leaving behind a rubber enamel effects. Freshwater cultured pearls and lacquered
mould with an identical hollow impression. 11 In-line quality control - There are many quality control artificial pearls are also set by hand, carefully glued onto
checkpoints during the crafting process, the timing of which traditional peg settings.
4 Wax model - The rubber mould is injected with molten varies from one crafting facility to another. This tends to be
wax, which hardens into exact copies of the original jewel- where the first check takes place. 17 Final quality control - All pieces of jewellery go through a
lery master. Each rubber mould is very efficient; it can be rigorous quality control process, and it is here they are given
reused up to 2,000 times. 12 Assembling, soldering and stone setting - Pandora’s skilled the final sign-off that they meet Pandora’s strict standards
goldsmiths adorn and detail the jewellery designs using a vari- of quality.
5 Treeing - The wax model is cleaned and attached to a wax ety of crafting techniques. Different elements are assembled
tree with a burner, adding more wax models until the tree is and soldered as necessary to create the finished masterpiec- 18 Packing and shipping - The final step is packing the
full. es. Stones are set by hand, either directly in the metal or in the hand-finished Pandora jewellery and shipping it around the
wax model to secure and showcase them to maximum effect. world, ready for women to wear, style and cherish.
CBS CASE COMPETITION GLOBAL 2022 47
US 26%
UK 65%
GERMANY 30%
ITALY 57%
FRANCE 35%
AUSTRALIA 56%
CBS CASE COMPETITION GLOBAL 2022 48
Core Markets
Endless Aisle
Virtual try-on
Bracelet Builder