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DEVELOPMENT OF THE METHOD OF LASTS DESIGNING FOR

COMFORTABLE SHOES USING THE PROGRESSIVE COMPUTER
TECHNOLOGIES

Presentation · March 2020

DOI: 10.13140/RG.2.2.30585.62566

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Liliia Chertenko
Kyiv National University of Technologies and Design
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Kyiv, Ukraine
2017

DEVELOPMENT OF THE METHOD OF LASTS DESIGNING

FOR COMFORTABLE SHOES USING THE PROGRESSIVE
COMPUTER TECHNOLOGIES

CHERTENKO L.P., GARKAVENKO S.S.

Objective. Development of the improved method for ergonomic footwear last design
on the basis of the 3D feet models using 3d technologies and advanced equipment.

Liliia Chertenko
E-mail lily-che@ukr.net
Phone +38(067)277-71-66
 Kyiv, Ukraine
2017

There are currently three main method of the

shoe last design and making:
• Hand made shoe last making
• Orthopaedic plaster casting
• CAD shoe last design
Each method has its advantages and disadvantages.
The most promising is 3D design using 3D foot scanning.
However, practice has shown that the application of this
method to design the elegant stylish shoe last is difficult
due to the significant differences between the shape of the
foot and last. The use of additional information obtained by
manual measurement of the foot significantly improves the
result.
 The methods of the feet anthropometric research
Manual measurement and
and shoe last making
hand made shoe last Foot 3d scanning and CAD
making
а в shoe last design

Orthopaedic
б plaster casting
 Kyiv, Ukraine
2017

The new improved method of shoe last designing

requires a new approach to the process of transforming of
anthropometric information into the shoe last parameters,
taking into account the style of the last and features of the
shoe.
The type of shoe and the requirements for it (comfort
or aesthetics) determine the method of last design and the
set of initial information. The highest requirements of
comfort and aesthetics are presented to elegant shoes by
individual order for customers with non-standard feet. In
such cases, it is effective to use 3D design based on 3D
foot scanning using additional information (see the next
diagram).
 The influence of initial information on the
properties of the designed shoe last
max

• 3d foot shape
The actual foot cast • 3d foot shape • 3d basic shape of
(gypsum foot form – is + shoe last
the base of shoe last) • 3d basic shape of • Foot manual
shoe last measurements
The shoe last design • Acceptable tightness
methods in the 3d
• Basic shoe last
Ergonomic, comfort

CAD using reverse • 3d basic shape of

• The main foot manual
engineering shoe last
measurements
• Acceptable tightness • Foot manual
(Existing shoe last is measurements
matched using attached • Acceptable tightness
patchs)
• Basic shoe last
• Minimum
measurements
 Foot length
 Ball girth
0 (choosing the right last)

Aesthetics, style max

 Kyiv, Ukraine
2017

The proposed process design algorithm is based

on the reverse engineering method and provides using
digital 3D scanning of the foot, 3d basic last model, foot
print and the results of manual measurement of the foot as
initial information.
On the example of a few customers a
difference was shown between the parameters of the
scanning foot 3d models and manual measurements of the
feet. Such difference is especially perceptible in the girth
measurements of the ball area.
Thus, experiment results testify to the necessity of
further perfection of methods of shoe last design for
custom-tailored last using 3d scanner and CAD systems.
 Customer anthropometric parameters obtained in various
ways (manual measurement and 3D scanning).
Customer 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Length, L1 Manual foot measurement 255 244.5 242 233 248 248 283 288
3d model CAD dimension 254.2 242.9 240.3 232.7 246 246.4 282.2 288.0
Devation ∆, мм 0.8 1.6 0.7 0.3 2.0 1.6 0.8 0.0
G2 – ball girth Manual foot measurement 237 224 255 225.5 254 225 260 285
3d model CAD dimension 243.7 229.5 260.3 232.0 261.5 231.0 264.5 292.2
Devation ∆, мм -6.3 -5.5 -5.3 -6.5 -7.5 -6.0 -4.5 -7.2
G1 – Girth around the Manual foot measurement 228.5 221 248 216 246 219 250 268
inner ball 3d model CAD dimension 231.8 227.2 252.8 222.4 255.0 224.1 256.2 274.8
Devation ∆, мм -3.3 -6.2 -4.8 -6.4 -6.0 -5.1 -6.2 -6.8
Girth along the middle Manual foot measurement 225 224 241 220 246 216 264 291
of the foot 3d model CAD dimension 225.6 228.2 243.3 219.5 248.6 218.0 268.7 296.7
Devation ∆, мм -0.6 -4.2 -2.3 0.5 -2.6 -2.0 -4.7 -5.7
Girth along the long Manual foot measurement 335 333 345 314 356 330 390 390
heel 3d model CAD dimension 330.7 332.1 343.6 315.6 354.2 333.0 393.8 388.0
Devation ∆, мм 4.3 0.9 1.4 -1.6 1.8 3.0 -3.8 2.0
Width of the ball (foot Manual foot measurement 98 94 108 98 106 98 107 119
contour) 3d model CAD dimension 96.7 93.7 108.5 95.7 104.8 97.2 106.0 119.8
Devation ∆, мм 1.3 0.3 -0.5 2.3 1.2 0.8 1.0 -0.2
Width of the ball (foot Manual foot measurement 89 86 100 85 96 86 97 106
print) 3d model CAD dimension 92.0 87.1 101.8 87.3 98.2 87.5 100.2 109.3
Devation ∆, мм -3.0 -1.1 -0.8 -2.3 -2.2 -1.5 -3.2 -3.3
Heel width (contour) Manual foot measurement 67 68 69 61 71 67 75 77
3d model CAD dimension 65.4 66.4 68.8 60.1 69.4 65.1 72.4 76.5
Devation ∆, мм 1.6 1.6 0.2 0.9 1.6 1.9 2.6 0.5
Heel width (footprint) Manual foot measurement 43 51 52 40 50 50 58 56
3d model CAD dimension 47.0 53.7 54.3 44.3 53.8 53.3 61.5 58.7
Devation ∆, мм -4.0 -2.7 -2.3 -4.3 -3.8 -3.3 -3.5 -2.7
 The shoe last database for the CAD design is created
by scanning physical samples of shoe lasts

Designing a new
last shape using
the reverse
engineering
involves the use of
a basic last, from
which it is possible
to obtain the
required shape by
applying a set of
3D modeling
graphical features.
 The last 3d shape frame creation
Visualization of the necessary changes in the shape of the shoe last
requires its comparison with the foot 3D model.
Changes in different sections of the last shape are made in specialized CAD
systems by changing the individual contours of the 3D model framework.
The 3d framework of the foot and last surface is defined by such a set of
important anthropometric contours:
• Longitudinal axial section
• The bottom shape outline
• Cross-vertical sections in the ball part, in the waist part, in the toe part, in the
middle of the heel
• Oblique and horizontal section in the back part (long heel girth, short heel girth,
ankle girth)
When designing the contours of the last framework, the initial parameters of
the foot contours obtained on the basis of the 3D model, as well as the results of
manual measurements of the foot, are taken into account.
When designing a high-heeled 3D shoe, the foot 3d model must first be
modified in accordance to the heel height.
 Obtaining information for the last
Customer
foot
frame design

New last
frame
Basic last
 The process of a shoe last designing taking into
account the necessary initial information
calculation of longitudinal- Last design according to feet
The last style
axial section parameters parameters design

3d foot model
Foot girth on the The basic
3d model last

Foot girth on the

manual measurements

The manual measurements The last bottom contour design

 The process of a last designing for height heel fashion
tailored shoe last
3d foot model The last bottom contour design The basic last

calculation of The last style

parameters of design
cross-vertical
sections of the
last, taking into
account
acceptable
3d foot model tightness
correction in
accordance the
heel height
Last design
according to
feet
parameters
 Kyiv, Ukraine
2017

The basis of the shoe frame is the contour of the last bottom shape
and the contour of the longitudinal-axial section, which are designed
based on the foot parameters.
Most of the parameters for constructing these contours are expressed
by equations of regression depending on the last size, its width and height
of the heel.
• Nm – metrical size of the last. It corresponds to the foot length: 235,
240, ……, 260 mm.
• Lf – foot length
• Hh – heel height
• W – last width:
W=0.25Gb-0.15Nm-16.5
• Gb – last ball girth, mm
The construction of the basic shaping contours of the shoe last
Llb – last bottom shape length
Llb=Lf+LL`-S
Lf – foot length
LL`- last length overmeasure in toe part
(min 7 mm)
S=0.02Nm+0.05Hh
Nm – metrical size of the last, mm.
Hh – heel height, mm
Wlb – last bottom width
Wlh – last heel part width
Wlb=0.2Nm+W+25-0.02Hh (for lady`s last)
Wlb=0.2Nm+W+29 (for men`s last)
Wlh=0.63Wlb
Ψ=0.25Hh-2
β=8+0.03Hh
γ=5◦ (for elegant shoes)
γ=6◦ (for comfort shoes)
NM=0.9Wlh-0.1Hh (for elegant shoes)
NM=0.95Wlh (for comfort shoes)
FP=FPm
A`Kl=A`Km; G`N=G`M
1 The process of designing the contour
of the last bottom surface

3
 Parameters comparison of the 3D last model and
the milled manufactured last
Parameter Foot Last1 Last2
comfort elegant
Length, L1 Manual foot measurement 244.5 246 260
3d model CAD dimension 242.9 245.6 259.4
Devation ∆, мм 1.6 0.4 0.6
G2 – ball girth Manual foot measurement 224 227 224.5
3d model CAD dimension 229.5 223.6 220.8
Devation ∆, мм -5.5 3.4 3.7
Girth along the foot Manual foot measurement 224 226 224
instep 3d model CAD dimension 228.2 223.7 221.9
Devation ∆, мм -4.2 2.3 2.1
Girth along the long Manual foot measurement 333 334 331
heel 3d model CAD dimension 332.1 331.1 327.5
Devation ∆, мм 0.9 2.9 3.5
Width of the ball (foot Manual foot measurement 94 87.6 86.5
contour) 3d model CAD dimension 93.7 88.1 86.7
Devation ∆, мм 0.3 -0.5 -0.2
Heel width (contour) Manual foot measurement 68 60 59
3d model CAD dimension 66.4 60.5 59.4
Devation ∆, мм 1.6 -0.5 -0.4

On the example of two custom lasts a difference was shown between

the parameters of the CAD designed shoe last model and the materialized milled last.
The significant differences between ball girth parameters are caused by
differences in the method of measuring virtual 3D last and a real sample
 Kyiv, Ukraine
2017
Conclusions
Preliminary experiments showed that the existing approach
to 3D modeling of the shoe last requires an improvement in the
method for designing the elegant and fashionable lasts. This work
makes an attempt to develop a design method using additional
information that compensates for the shortcomings of the 3D
approach. The significant difference in the results of 3D scanning
and manual measurements, as well as the peculiarities of the
interaction of the foot-to-shoe system, suggest that it is reasonable
to use the results of manual foot measurement as additional
specifying information for calculating the last parameters.
The developed samples of the different styles lasts for several
consumers were made by milling on professional specialized digital
equipment and confirmed the effectiveness of the improved design
method. Shoe models made on these lasts showed a good level of
fit to the customer’s foot.
Kyiv, Ukraine
2017
 Kyiv, Ukraine
2017

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