Trend of HA in Personal Care Industry

Bloomage Freda Biopharm Co., Ltd.

2015.04 Barcelona
Hyaluronic Acid (HA), is the main component of the extracellular matrix(ECM) in
human and animal tissues and plays an irreplaceable role for the organisms’ life
activities.
 PHARMACEUTICALS
HEALTH FOODS

HA

COSMETIC
The worldwide production of HA has exceeded 300 tons in 2014.

GNPG shows there are more than 3000 Cosmetics Finished Products

containing HA, including skincare products, hair care products, cleansing

products, makeup, etc.

 More properties Derivative

Protective layer
More activities Smaller
molecular HA Larger
molecular

Mixture More applications

一、miniHATM HA-Oligo degraded by Hyaluronidase

Innovative, Safe, Multifunctional very low molecular weight HA

1. Transdermal absorption

C OO Ｈ
C H2 O H
H O
H O
H O
H H O
OH

H
H
n＜25
OH H
H
OH H
N H C O C H3 n
about 400 Da
about 1 nm

The average molecular size of miniHA is so small that it can penetrate

into human skin.
 Advantage of miniHATM
Compared with Common HA-Oligo (chemical degradation)

 Complete structure

 Higher purity

 No cytotoxicity

 Higher safety
2. Deeply Moisturizing
 When miniHA is used in cosmetic
miniHA has significant moisturizing effect formulation together with std HA, the
moisturizing capacity is higher because
of their synergetic effect.
3. Repairing damaged cells

Control group UV Irradiated group miniHA group

The count and The cell count was The cells count
morphology of cells decreased and the cell increased and cell shape
were normal for the shape was significantly returned to normal after
control group . changed for UV irradiated adding miniHA.
group.
Cells RGR of miniHA group was higher than other irradiated groups in both
experiments, which indicated miniHA had good capacity of sun protection and
after sun repair.
4. Anti-oxidation activity

Adding miniHA after UVA

Adding miniHA before UVA

Whether adding miniHA before or after UVA, the average fluorescence intensity
of miniHA group was much lower than positive control.
ROS: Reactive Oxygen Species, induced by UVA irradiation
5. Anti-aging effect

 Double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled clinical/instrumental

evaluation of miniHA has been finished by Farcoderm srl (Italy).

miniHA anti-aging effect is greater than placebo. The difference between the
two products is statistically significant at all monitored experimental checks.
These effects, instrumentally and clinically recorded, were also perceived by
the majority of the subjects participating in the study.

Authorized to use by Biophil company

 SKIN MOISTURIZATION SKIN ELASTICITY (R2)

The skin moisturization increased by 5.8%, The skin elasticity increased by 4.6%,
7.6% and 12.4% after applying miniHA cream 5.2% and 6.1% after applying miniHA
15d, 30d and 60d respectively. cream 15d, 30d and 60d respectively .
 SKIN PROFILOMETRY
SKIN THICKNESS

The skin wrinkle depth decreased by

The skin thickness increased by 8.3% 16.0%, 20.3% and 25.6% after applying
after applying miniHA cream for 60d. miniHA cream 15d, 30d and 60d
respectively.
CLINICAL ANALYSIS (SKIN WRINKLEDNESS)

The wrinkle depth decrease was also

confirmed by the dermatologist that
shows a reduced wrinkles appearance by
60% of the enrolled subjects.
Summary

Innovation Safe Multifunction

• 3000-10000Da • Ecocert certified • Moisturizing

• Enzymatic method • Complete safety tests • Repairing

• first one in the world • High purity • Anti-oxidation

• Innovation Awards • No cytotoxicity • Anti-aging

 In Vitro evaluation of penetration capability
• In Vitro reconstructed human skin

• 2 parallel tests run (By Farcoderm Srl – San Martino Siccomario Pavia Italy)
on reconstructed human epidermis
on reconstructed human full thickness (epidermis+dermis)

• 0.5% liquid solution

Mini Ha crosses the skin just after 30 minutes from the application and its
penetration through epidermis and dermis (69.5%) has a time dependent
trend. Mini Ha is equally distributed between epidermis and dermis at the end
of the experiment
Instruction
INCI name
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Application
Moisturizer, anti-aging agent, sun protection.
Dosage form
Aqueous solution, gels, cream, emulsion, etc.
Recommended usage
0.1~0.5%. Much better efficacy when combined with std HA.
Use method
Good solubility, good stability, easy to use in any manufacturing
process.
二、HyacrossTM Hyaluronic Acid Elastomer

Excellent protective film with long lasting moisturizing effect on the skin
1. Instruction

HyacrossTM Hyaluronic Acid Elastomer is a

crosslinked polymer derived from natural

Hyaluronic Acid (HA). Hyacross appears like an

elastic gel with high viscosity able to form an

invisible biological film on the skin surface with

various effects, such as moisturizing, protection,

slow release, etc.

2. Main Properties

×300
（1）Improving skin barrier

Hyacross can form a 3D “breathable” layer on the

surface of the skin that improves the skin barrier
function, reduces the water evaporation from
cuticle and prevents the skin damaged caused by ×1000

external aggressions like UV ray, pollution, etc.

（2）Excellent water binding capacity
The viscosity of a Hyacross solution is 2-3 160
HA
140 Hyacross
times higher than of std HA solution at 120

Viscosity (mPa s)
the same concentration, which indicates 100

80
that Hyacross can bind more water 60

molecules because of its cross-linked 40

20
structure. Hyacross behaves like a “micro 0
0.02 0.04 0.06 0.08 0.1
reservoir” delivering continuously water Concentration (% of dry powder)

to the skin.
（3）Good resistance to Hyaluronidase
45000

40000 HA
Hyacross shows better resistance to
35000 Hyacross

Viscosity (mPa·s)
30000
Hyaluronidase than common Sodium
25000

20000
Hyaluronate, so the film formed by
15000

10000
Hyacross on the skin surface is more
5000

0
stable and durable. 0 1 2 4 6 8
Time (hours)
3. Effects in Cosmetics

（1）Long-lasting moisturizing
60
**
Compared to the control group, the 55
Control
50 **
Hyacross 1%

Skin Hydration (%)

skin hydration of Hyacross group 45 **
40
*
increased by 85% after 0.5h and by 35
30 * *
110% after 1h. Hyacross increased 25
20
significantly the skin hydration even 15
10
after 24h. Before 0.5 1 3 6 12 24
Time (hours)
 9

Compared to the control group, the skin 8

* Control
*

TWEL (g/hm2）
* Hyacross 1%
TEWL of Hyacross group was reduced by 7 ** **
**
18% after 0.5h and by 22% after 1h. 6

Hyacross reduced significantly skin TEWL 5

even after 12h. 4

Before 0.5 1 3 6 12 24
Time (hours)

Hyacross can keep cuticle moisturized because of both the excellent

water binding capacity and the decrease of the evaporation of the
deeper skin moisture by forming a dense film on the skin surface.
（2）Skin elasticity
25.00
Compared to the control group, the ** Control

R2 relative increasing rate (%)

20.00
Hyacross 1%
skin elasticity of Hyacross group was **

15.00

significantly increased. After 4 weeks **

10.00
*
of application, the relative skin
5.00

elasticity rate for the Hyacross group 0.00

1 2 3 4
reached 21.6%. Time (weeks)
（3）Skin smoothness
90

Randomized, double-blind placebo-

Proportion of the subjects (%)

80
70
Control

controlled evaluation of Hyacross was 60

Hyacross 2%
50
carried out on 20 healthy females. 40
30
The result showed a significant
20

improvement of skin smoothness 10

0
appearance on 35% of the volunteers No Improvement Significant
improvement improvement

after 30 days. Over 60% showed an

improvement.
（4）Skin feeling
1%Hyacross aq
100
2%Hyacross aq

Percentage of subjects (%)

80 5%Hyacross aq

60

40

20

0
Neutral Sticky Smooth

Hyacross has higher viscosity and better thickening capacity than common
HA and it feels smooth but not sticky when dissolved in water media. Most
of the volunteers reported that the 2% solution is the best compromise.
 Mechanisms of action/cosmetic functions

• Long lasting • Increasing skin

moisturizing elasticity
Water
NMF
binding

3D
Stability
structure

• Protective film • Effective in reducing

skin roughness
4. Products Description

HyacrossTL100

INCI name: Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer/ Pentylene Glycol /Aqua

CAS No.: 105524-32-1/5343-92-0/7732-18-5
EINECS No.: —/226-285-3/231-791-2
Appearance: Colorless and transparent aqueous gel
Recommend range: 1.0-5.0%
Usage: Soluble in water, it can be added directly to the water phase by gentle
stirring until complete dissolution.
No. Ingredient name (INCI name) Wt/% Hydrating and
1 Glycerin 8.0 nourishing
2 HyacrossTL100 2.0
sleeping mask
3 Betaine 2.0
4 Niacinamide 1.5
5 Simmondsia chinensis(Jojoba) seed oil 1.0
6 Dicaprylyl carbonate 1.0 (Example of formulation)
7 Dimethicone 1.0
8 Dimethicone /Dimethiconol 1.0
9 Cetearyl olivate/Sorbitan olivate 1.0
10 Phenoxyethanol/Ethylhexylglycerin 0.8
11 Trehalose 0.5
12 Tocopheryl acetate 0.5
13 Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer 0.35
14 Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.25
15 Methylpropanediol 0.1
16 Allantoin 0.1
17 Fragrance Q.S.
18 Aqua To 100
HyacrossTG100
INCI name: Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer/ Pentylene Glycol /Aqua
CAS No.: 105524-32-1/5343-92-0/7732-18-5
EINECS No.: —/226-285-3/231-791-2
Appearance: Colorless and transparent aqueous gel with soft particles
Recommend range: 1.0-5.0%
Usage: Insoluble transparent particles are still present in the solution after this
product is dissolved in the aqueous phase. These particles are very small and
disappear during the homogenization process. In particular these particles are
visible in water based products, just like “HA droplet” and they are absorbed
easily by the skin during the application of the product.
 High Purity HA Reservoir Serum
(Example of formulation)
No. Ingredient name (INCI name) Wt/%
1 Butylene glycol 5.0
2 Glycerin 3.0
3 HyacrossTG100 2.0
4 Betaine 2.0
5 Glyceryl polymethacrylate/propylene glycol/PVM/MA copolymer 2.0
6 Phenoxyethanol/Ethylhexylglycerin 0.8
7 Allantoin 0.2
8 Carbomer 0.05
9 Methylpropanediol 0.02
10 Aqua To 100
三、Application of HA with different molecular weight
1. Different Applications of different HA

Molecular weight (Da) 1.8M 1M 10K

Hyacross HA-THM HA-T HA-TLM miniHA

MiniHA Deeply moisturizing, Repairing, Anti-oxidation, Anti-aging

HA-TLM Softening skin、Nourishing skin
HA-T/HA-THM Moisturizing、Film forming
Hyacross Long lasting moisturizing, protective film
2. Synergistic Effect

Double protection
HA-THM/HA-T Smooth feeling

Protective film
Hyacross HA-TLM
Softening skin

Protective film Trans

miniHA
epidermal absorption
3. Products containing different HA
Thanks