Images of Bathing Women in Early Modern

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53

Images of Bathing Women in Early Modern Europe


and Turkey

Patricia Simons, University of Michigan

Scholars have routinely treated early modern Certainly, Europeans brought preconcep-
tales of same-sex eroticism between Turkish women tions to bear on cultural interactions, and in this
as instances of colonisation and racial fantasy. An case those expectations—which varied according
influential argument claims that the early modern to such factors as regional origin, class, education
tribade (lesbian) was initially marked as a ‘racial- and profession—included conventions about bath-
ised’ or Orientalised ‘other’, located by European ing women. Diana and her chaste nymphs bathing
men in Islamic culture.1 However, the argument together in secluded ponds, for instance, had long
depends on faulty history and a set of easy assump- provided an opportunity for women as well as men
tions that homogenise and dichotomise. If, instead, to see maidens in moments of tenderness and erotic
we disaggregate a series of variable signifiers, we contact.5 Sexual contact was also represented in de-
can discern a more nuanced, contested terrain in pictions of contemporary bathing. Barthel Beham’s
which women’s agency and imagination had space print of Women Bathing, for example, offered pre-
to play, in a number of different geographies. sumptively male clients explicit views of lascivious
While the tribade was often associated with contact between women.6 The scenario was com-
Sappho (from the island of Lesbos, off Turkey’s mercially alluring enough for brother Hans Sebald
coast), Europeans never exclusively connected to issue a reversed copy in 1548 (see figure 1), and
tribadism with women from the eastern Mediter- an anonymous broadsheet disseminated the view
ranean, let alone with Islamic women. But it has as well. Replete with a large stove, wooden walls
been claimed that in the later sixteenth century, and benches, the room where the trio bathe was
‘the rhetoric of the tribade … focuses initially on part of a public bathhouse, an institution notori-
the racialized bodies of women outside of Europe, ously associated with brothels.
and only gradually incorporates this exoticized In 1560, when the Fleming Ogier de Busbecq,
figure into a European social landscape’.2 However, ambassador of the Holy Roman Emperor, wrote
Sappho was the first to be named in Renaissance from Istanbul, he noted that in the public bath-
Latin as a tribade, from the mid 1470s, and she houses, ‘the women become deeply attached to
was not construed as a racialised other.3 The re- each other, and the baths supply them with op-
appearance of the tribade was, rather, central to portunities of meeting’. Like his fellow northerner
the project of philology, male authorship and fan- Beham, he located female-female eroticism among
tasies of homoeroticism voiced in the homosocial the lesser classes:
world of the academy, the schoolroom and the pub-
lishing house. The great mass of women use the public baths …
Much of the evidence for the overly metaphor- Among them are found many girls of exquisite beauty,
ical association of sexual with racial marginality who have been brought together from different quarters
comes from accounts about the baths and harems of the globe by various chances of fortune; so cases
of Turkey, a powerful empire involved in its own co- occur of women falling in love with one another at
lonial expansion. Repeated European stories about these baths, in much the same fashion as young men fall
what women did in all-female Turkish baths or a in love with maidens in our own country. … This evil
seraglio do not mean that there was no basis for the affects only the common people; the richer classes bathe
initial reports.4 The effect of such an argument has at home.7
been to depict European tribades as sensationally
demonised, to construct Islamic ones as fantasised, Busbecq attributed the practice not to racial
and to view both as victims without agency. characteristics but to over-seclusion of women in
267

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268 Cultural and Artistic Exchange in the Making of the Modern World

officials, diplomats, courtiers, merchants, sailors


and guides. It is quite possible that he echoed local
rumour circulating among native inhabitants as
well as foreign residents in Istanbul, fed by memo-
ries of punishment recorded in some of the reports.
Such tales, or Bassano’s account, which De Nicolay
used when writing in the early 1550s, informed
images of bathing women circulating in the French
court. I argue that Jean Mignon’s etching of Women
Bathers (see figure 2), after Luca Penni’s design and
dated around 1547–55, echoes Bassano.10 It was
popular enough to warrant the issue of a reversed
copy in Venice in 1572, and another artist re-used
the tribadic couple for a print in which a voyeuris-
tic, aroused satyr enters the bathing scene.11
Bassano’s chapter on women’s public baths
noted that men were never allowed entrance. Slaves
carried towelling, a carpet, food, a ‘tall and large
but not enormous copper vase, like a chamber-pot’
containing a chemise, and other accoutrements
for the outing to the baths. Under its decorative
cloth cover, such a vaso is borne on the head of
an attendant slave in De Nicolay’s illustration of
Turkish Woman Going to the Baths.12 Within the
Figure 1 Hans Sebald Beham, after Barthel Beham baths, the women
Women Bathing, 1548
8.3 × 5.7 cm familiarly wash each other, one the woman next to her,
engraving
or a sister with another. It is common knowledge that
British Museum, London
© Trustees of the British Museum among the women there arises a very great love, due to
the familiarity of washing, and hair plucking. And one
Turkish society, so that single-sex public baths, in frequently sees one woman enamored of another, just
which no eunuchs guarded husbands’ interests, like a man with a woman. And I have known Greek
provided opportunities for illicit sexual encounters and Turkish women (upon seeing a beautiful young
between women. Like the German artists, the am- girl) seek occasion to bathe with her, in order to see
bassador presumed to know what bathing women her naked, and handle her. And many attend the baths
did on their own. beyond their neighborhood, in order to do this thing,
By the time Busbecq wrote in 1560, at least with all those whose custom it is to go to the baths of
two other European visitors to Istanbul had come their neighborhood. This and many other lewd things
to similar conclusions, although only one account arise in bathing amongst women.13
was in print. One report, finally published in
1568, was penned by Nicolas de Nicolay, French Penni’s design shows Bassano’s ‘vase placed on
spy, traveller and royal geographer, whose book the floor in front of the first chamber’ now turned
is best known for its illustrations of costumes. into elaborate amphorae, and the discarded che-
Its description of Turkish women in public baths mise nearby. So too the image and Bassano’s text
who ‘handle & grope’ each other has been taken (but not De Nicolay’s version) each gave the im-
as an early moment in the history of the racialised pression of seated women arranged around the rim
and colonised lesbian.8 However, nearly all of his of a sunken pool, slaves attending ladies, a slave
passage was plagiarised from an earlier publication serving ‘lovely collations’ on a tray in the centre,
that has not been cited by historians of female scattered implements for hair care or toilette,
same-sex eroticism. and noteworthy gestures of female intimacy. All
Luigi Bassano’s volume on Turkish customs, the details were set in an impressive architectural
published in Rome in 1545, was written by a minor surround that reminded the Italian of the baths
official who was in Istanbul by 1537.9 His news of Emperor Diocletian in Rome. Several aspects
about Turkish women was very probably begin- of the etching are rare in bathing images: the re-
ning to be diffused in oral form and correspond- cessed oval bath is not common, nor is the deliv-
ence among the kinds of men he worked with: ery of food, and even the total absence of men is

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Images of Bathing Women in Early Modern Europe and Turkey 269

unusual. Taken together, this unique combination Figure 2 Jean Mignon


Women Bathing, c. 1547–55
of rare elements points to the likelihood that re-
44.5 × 62.5 cm
ports like Bassano’s inform the print’s details and etching
very conception. Anonymous Fund for the Acquisition of Prints Older
Mignon’s etching has been considered ‘so- than 150 Years, Fogg Art Museum, Harvard University Art
phisticated, elegant … “a somewhat licentious Museum, Cambridge, MA (M236000)
Photograph Allan Macintyre
glorification of the pleasures of the toilette”’,
© President and Fellows of Harvard College
merely associated with generic eroticism at the
royal chateau of Fontainebleau.14 Instead, I sug- ‘the great and notable dames’, a shift also featured
gest that it purports to represent Turkish bathers. in the French etching.16 In conjunction with this
Rather than Orientalising, the baths, and what went class shift, the habit and its venue became more
on therein, incited French fascination in terms of a antique.
‘renaissance’ of classical architecture, ancient luxu- To understand the dynamics of this reception,
ry and tribadic practice. Both French and Turkish we must locate the image within the French court,
women were imagined to be tribades, akin to the with its important alliance between Süleyman the
female-female ‘rubsters’ of the ancient empires of Magnificent and Francis I against the Hapsburgs.
Greece and Rome. Rather than Orientalising in the later sense of
For sixteenth-century writers, intimacy be- demeaning, colonising and stereotyping, French
tween Turkish women was caused by social factors reactions to Ottoman culture during Francis I’s
like jealous husbands, overzealous privatisation of reign were in many ways positive and envious.17 To
female bodies, opportunities provided by the bath- Europeans, the Ottoman Empire seemed more or-
houses, and specific habits of bathing (such as de- derly in its social structure, more pious in its devo-
pilation) that allowed access to each other’s bodies. tion to a single religion and the regular practice of
Neither De Nicolay nor Penni adapts the satirical prayer, and more virile and victorious on the battle-
tone against ‘only the common people’ evident in field. Visitors brought back tales of a less fractious,
Beham’s engraving and Busbecq’s letter. Bassano more loyal ruling class living in a state of luxury.
had noted that noblewomen bathed within the Each ruler had ambitious programs of build-
harems of their own beautiful homes, so that he ing and decoration, Francis I most famously at
was talking about only ‘those who are middling Fontainebleau, which included an elaborate bath-
rich’.15 De Nicolay chose to make the lascivious ing suite. When artists of the French court con-
bathers more aristocratic, writing especially of the tributed to the flattering construction of an idyllic,

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270 Cultural and Artistic Exchange in the Making of the Modern World

escapist and elegant world, they not only turned to chamber’ in which slaves might continue to ‘wash
the repertoire of classicism, with its rich narrative, and rub’ a client’s entire body while she rested.24
allegorical traditions and triumphant imperialism, An arched, shadowed chamber contains an old,
but, at times, to the more novel myth of another turbaned slave, leaning forwards and reaching out
court, one existing at the edges of the former with both arms towards what can only be the geni-
Graeco-Roman Empire. tals of a reclining woman. Female figures further
De Nicolay’s account of Turkish baths began forward in the picture plane conveniently obscure
by drawing a connection with luxurious, ancient the scene so that it remains enticing yet censored
precedent: ‘In Constantinople as also in all the enough to avoid crudity.
other cities Mahematised in Graecia, Asia, & Africa The distinction made in the German images
are a great number of very faire baths, … which ac- between ages and degrees of beauty, in which the
cording to the imitation of the auncient Graecians & lower class character is ugly, is accentuated in the
Romaines, are constructed & builded with industry, French images of De Nicolay’s attendant slave or
sumptuousnesse, & expenses almost incredible’.18 Mignon’s female masseuse. Racial divisions were
The multi-chambered layout he described, akin to certainly envisaged, but these do not present a
Diocletian’s baths, was followed in both Istanbul dichotomy between tribadic Turks and innocent
and Fontainebleau. He inserted a new sentence European women. Rather, they tend to distinguish
about ancient Greece: ‘Even as in times past wer slaves from ladies who were both Europeanised
the Tribades, of the number wherof was Sapho the and Turkish, some of whom were thought to
Lesbian which transferred the love[,] wherwith she be Christian women captured or purchased by
pursued a 100. women or maidens[,] upon her only the sultan.25 A virtual nostalgia developed about
friend Phaon’.19 De Nicolay thought in reassuring Süleyman’s palace as the centre of peaceful leisure,
and Ovidian terms about an ultimately male focus at the heart of a powerful man’s imperialist regime.
for Sapphic women, because male Phaon overrode What eventuated in the seventeenth and later
Sappho’s love for women. centuries is another story.
The kind of Turkish-bathing tribade purveyed For sixteenth-century material about the
to French nobles was a classical, luxurious, erotic sexual habits of bathing women, two axes of in-
fantasy figure who could be imagined as having tersection between Europeans and Ottomans offer
her counterpart in such spaces as Fontainebleau. more explication than the anachronistic model of
When Henry VIII’s ambassador Henry Wallop Orientalising. One is class. It was relatively easy
was personally escorted by Francis I through those to imagine middling and lower class women in the
bathing apartments in November 1540, he found public baths of, say, Germany or Turkey being sex-
there ‘Madame de Estampes [the King’s mistress], ually active with each other, and a hierarchy of race,
and Madame Dowbeyney, in a chambre next unto age and religion also came into play. The other axis
them, where was two beddes: and in myn oppinion, is classicism. Interpenetrating with class, in that the
theye more mete to be in the said baynes, then to patina of antiquity endowed an aristocratic aura,
lye with theire howsbandes’.20 Soon thereafter, the the European Renaissance valued certain aspects
room with a pool, adjacent to the space where the of Ottoman culture that could be cast in terms of
languid ladies had rested in a happily husbandless contact with or continuation of the ancient past of
state, was decorated by Primaticcio with a Callisto the Graeco-Roman world. It was understood that
cycle, including a lunette in which two seemingly Eastern baths maintained a tradition dating back
female bodies kiss.21 to antiquity; Penni’s design situated the bathers
Whether Mignon’s etching connoted the sul- in a classical hall. Tribadism itself was an ancient
tan’s Istanbul (which De Nicolay referred to as practice; to hear of it in ‘Constantinople’ was to
a ‘nouvelle Rome’22), the king’s Fontainebleau, learn about another instance of ancient survival,
Sappho’s ancient Lesbos or Diocletian’s Rome—and augmented by the social circumstances of extreme
it is probable that the evocation aimed at blending seclusion for women.
these sites—the artists and their audience envis- A mix of admiration, titillation and condem-
aged specific sexual encounters between women. nation characterised European responses to re-
Two women in the right foreground entwine their ports of same-sex activity in women’s baths. The
thighs, and slung legs were understood as a visual French etching is part generic erotica, part pseudo-
sign for sexual concourse.23 They embrace, and the ethnography, and each term is brought to bear on
right hand of one woman has moved directly to her the other, arriving at a located fantasy, a courtly clas-
companion’s genitals. A more straightforward, ob- sical Mediterranean myth of Romanised Lesbos.
scene vignette is placed in the far-left background, Far from a history of the repressed and unseen, or
which contains what De Nicolay called ‘a small of a colonial stereotype, this paper, by pointing to

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Images of Bathing Women in Early Modern Europe and Turkey 271

diverse, complicated local histories, has presented catalogue, Grunwald Centre for the Graphic Arts,
a small part of the multivalent imagining of female– University of California, Los Angeles, 1994, pp. 273–5,
no. 59. For a possible date in the 1550s, see Suzanne
female sex in early modern Europe. Boorsch, ‘The Prints of the School of Fontainebleau’,
in The French Renaissance in Prints, p. 90. For a date
between 1547 and 1550, see Henri Zerner, Renaissance
NOTES Art in France: The Invention of Classicism, trans.
Deke Dusinberre, Scott Wilson & Rachel Zerner,
1 Valerie Traub, ‘The Psychomorphology of the Flammarion, Paris, 2003, figure 232. The Fogg Art
Clitoris’, GLQ, vol. 2, 1995, pp. 81–113. Although Museum supplies c. 1550–55 on its photograph.
some of the most sweeping claims are moderated and 11 For the engraved copy in reverse issued by the
some historical errors silently corrected in a more publisher, print dealer and printmaker Niccolò Nelli,
recent version, the essay of 1995 has fundamentally dated and signed by Marco de Bianchi, see Giorgio
determined the parameters of the claim. See ‘The Lise, L’Incisione Erotica del Rinascimento, Carlo Emilio
Psychomorphology of the Clitoris; Or, the Reemergence Bestetti, Milan, 1975, p. 103. For the other French
of the Tribade in English Culture’ (ch. 5), in Valerie print, and a drawing, each after Mignon’s etching, see
Traub, The Renaissance of Lesbianism in Early Modern David Acton, in The French Renaissance in Prints,
England, Cambridge University Press, New York, 2002. pp. 334–5, no. 91; and Emmanuelle Brugerolles &
Translations are my own unless otherwise indicated. David Guillet, The Renaissance in France: Drawings
2 Traub, Renaissance of Lesbianism, p. 20. from the Ecole des Beaux-Arts, Paris, Harvard
3 See Domizio Calderini, commentary to Ovid’s University Art Museums, Cambridge, MA, 1995,
Heroides, Domitii Calderini Veronensis Co[m]me[n] pp. 138–9. For a painting of idealised bathers and
tariolo i[n] Ibin Ouidii ad vi[rum] clarissimu[m] women at their toilette, attributed to Lambert Sustris
falcone[m] sinibaldu[m] ciuem Romanu[m] aerariiq[ue] and dated to the early 1550s, while he was in Venice,
pontificii custodem, Jacobus Rubeus, Venice, c. 1475. which depends upon the etching in such details as an
4 For Arabic texts on female same-sex eroticism, see, for embracing female couple bonded through their mutual
example, Walter Andrews & Mehmet Kalpakli, The gaze into a mirror, the delivery of delectables on a tray
Age of Beloveds, Duke University Press, Durham, NC, and a recessed pool in which one woman attends to
2005; and Sahar Amer, Crossing Borders: Love between her hair, see Die Gemäldegalerie des Kunsthistorischen
Women in Medieval French and Arabic Literatures, Uni- Museums in Wien: Verzeichnis der Gemälde, Edition
versity of Pennsylvania Press, Philadelphia, PA, 2008. Christian Brandstätter, Vienna, 1991, plate 50.
5 Patricia Simons, ‘Lesbian (In)Visibility in Italian 12 De Nicolay, Dans l’Empire de Soliman, p. 139; The
Renaissance Culture: Diana and Other Cases of donna Navigations, Peregrinations and Voyages, p. 61 recto.
con donna’, Journal of Homosexuality, vol. 27, 1994, 13 Bassano, I costumi, p. 5 recto.
pp. 81–122, reprinted in Whitney Davis (ed.), Gay 14 Boorsch, entry in The French Renaissance in Prints,
and Lesbian Studies in Art History, Haworth Press, p. 273, partly citing Zerner, L’Ecole de Fontainebleau,
New York, 1994. exhibition catalogue, Grand Palais, Paris, 1972, p. 320;
6 Robert A Koch (ed.), The Illustrated Bartsch 15 similarly, Rebecca Zorach, Blood, Milk, Ink, Gold:
Formerly Volume 8 (Part 2): Early German Masters Abundance and Excess in the French Renaissance,
Bathel Beham, Hans Sebald Beham, Abaris Books, New University of Chicago Press, Chicago, IL, 2005, p. 10.
York, 1978, pp. 23, 110; Stephen H Goddard (ed.), 15 Bassano, I costumi, p. 5 verso.
The World in Miniature: Engravings by the German 16 De Nicolay, Dans l’Empire de Soliman, p. 137; The
Little Masters 1500–1550, Spencer Museum of Art, Navigations, Peregrinations and Voyages, p. 59 verso.
University of Kansas, Lawrence, KS, 1988, pp. 180–1, 17 See, for example, Clarence Dana Rouillard, The Turk
no. 48. For a broadsheet version, see Michael Schilling, in French History, Thought and Literature (1520–1660),
Bildpublizistik der frühen Neuzeit, Max Niemeyer Boivin et Cie, Paris, 1938; and De Lamar Jensen,
Verlag, Tübingen, 1990, p. 211, plate 39. ‘The Ottoman Turks in Sixteenth-Century French
7 Ogier de Busbecq, letter, 1560, cited in Charles Diplomacy’, Sixteenth Century Journal, vol. 16, 1985,
Thornton Forster & FH Blackburne Daniell, The pp. 451–70.
Life and Letters of Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq, vol. 1, 18 De Nicolay, Dans l’Empire de Soliman, pp. 135–6;
C Kegan Paul, London, 1881, p. 231. The Navigations, Peregrinations and Voyages, p. 58
8 Nicolas de Nicolay, Les Navigations peregrinations recto–verso.
et voyages faicts en la Turquie, published as Dans 19 De Nicholay, The Navigations, Peregrinations and
l’Empire de Soliman le Magnifique, ed. Marie-Christine Voyages, p. 60 recto; Dans l’Empire de Soliman, p. 138.
Gomez-Géraud & Stéphane Yérasimos, CNRS, Paris, 20 Henry Wallop, 1540, cited in W McAllister Johnson,
1989, p. 138; The Navigations, Peregrinations and ‘On Some Neglected Usages of Renaissance Diplo-
Voyages, Made into Turkie, Thomas Dawson, London, matic Correspondence’, Gazette des Beaux Arts,
1585, p. 60 recto. vol. 79, 1972, pp. 53–4.
9 Luigi Bassano, I costumi, et i modi particolari de la vita 21 For Pierre Milan’s engraving after Primaticcio’s lost
de Turchi, facsimile, ed. Franz Babinger, Max Hueber, work, see Zerner, The School of Fontainebleau, no. PM 4.
Munich, 1963 (1545), hereafter quoted from pp. 5 22 De Nicolay, Dans l’Empire de Soliman, p. 123.
recto – 6 recto. 23 Leo Steinberg, ‘The Metaphors of Love and Birth in
10 For discussion of the etching, see Henri Zerner, The Michelangelo’s Pietàs’, in Theodore Bowie & Cornelia
School of Fontainebleau: Etchings and Engravings, V Christenson (eds), Studies in Erotic Art, Basic Books,
Harry N Abrams, New York, 1969, no. JM 46; Suzanne New York, 1970, pp. 241–6.
Boorsch, entry in The French Renaissance in Prints 24 De Nicolay, Dans l’Empire de Soliman, p. 140.
from the Bibliothèque Nationale de France, exhibition 25 ibid., p. 129.

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