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Bes 3 Residential Elevator Installation Manual: OCTOBER 2019
Bes 3 Residential Elevator Installation Manual: OCTOBER 2019
INSTALLATION MANUAL
OCTOBER 2019
Introduction:
Cambridge Elevating (CE) strives to make a quality product your customers want in their home
and an elevator you can install easily and performs beyond expectations for many years.
With those goals in mind, we have produced this manual and other support documents so
every technician has the installation, service and technical information required to be fully
informed.
As with any multipart assembly there is always more than one way to accomplish the process.
Site conditions can often dictate a change in tactics and a modification of the standard
procedure. This manual presents the most straight forward procedures that will work in the
widest range of situations.
This manual was written with the support of CE staff but more importantly years of feedback
from technicians like you. We value and require your feedback to help make this manual as
complete and user-friendly as possible. Whether you have a better method for a particular
task, or advice to new installers, find something missing, have a suggestion for a better
drawing or find an error, please provide to the technical support department via phone, email,
or text anytime.
Please use this manual in conjunction with the residential Service Manual, the residential
Technical Documents and residential Technical eBulletins emailed regularly. If you require any
of these or are not receiving the eBulletins please contact your supervisor or CE technical
support department.
Make sure to note the version and date on the front page and check with CE’s technical
support whether you have the latest version as this manual will be updated regularly.
Sean Moffitt
Technical Support Manager
Cambridge Elevating
1-800-265-3579 ext. 19
Partsorders@cambridgeelevating.com
3. Review shipment
4. Preparation
14. Cylinder
a. Cylinder detail
15. Sling
a. Sling
a. Sheave detail
a. Pre-stroke detail
a. Cab inline
b. Cab through
c. Cab 90 degree
a. Cartop electrical
a. COP
39. Coded strips (M21, M22) and limit switch cams (M32)
a. Sensor head
b. Coded strips
44. Elmira with Woodfold gate (C9) and Porta door operator (E9)
a. Handrail detail
53. Setup and adjustment of the Cambridge Elevating hydraulic power unit
54. Testing the low-pressure switch and the slack rope switch
61. Glossary
Options:
Note: the following options will affect your install. Detailed procedures will be added in
future additions of this manual. Contact technical support if you have one of these
options and instructions were not included with your project.
A. Special slings
C. Hard stop
D. 2-piece cylinders
E. ITI cylinders
H. Buffer pads
I. Buffer springs
J. Seismic option
K. MRL
L. Hybrid
M. Glass cab
Q. 120AC lighting
• Flashlight
• Chalk line
• Black sharpie
o ½ inch
o 18mm
o 9/16th inch
o 4-inch socket extension
• Screwdrivers
o 1/16-inch slot 6 inches long
o “stubby” No. 2 Philips
screwdriver (star)
• Wrenches
o (2) adjustable wrench 12 o 7/8th inch
inches
o 15/16th inch
o 10mm
o 1 inch
o 13mm
o 1 1/16 inch
o 17mm
o 1 1/8 inch
o 7/16th inch
o 1 ¼ inch
o ½ inch
o ¾ inch (2)
o 1 3/8th inch (for ¾ inch
hydraulic fittings)
o 4mm
o 8mm
o 5mm
• Bullet level
• 4 to 5 foot level
• Hammer
• Gloves
• Large funnel
• Ladder - 6 foot
• Brake setting shim or something else 1/16th of an inch thick and narrow.
• Broom
• Coal chisel
• Metal shims
• Rail files
• Long level
• Thread sealant
• Applicable personal safety equipment, this may include hard hats, safety glasses, dust
masks, safety footwear, safety harnesses and more.
o Hammer drill
o Pipe wrenches
o Pipe threader/cutter
May be required for shortening lengthening diagnosing or repairing cables and wires.
o Wire cutters
o Wire strippers
o Wire crimpers
o Electrical multi-meter
• ¾ to ⅞-inch long #8 wood screws (to attach travel cable clamp to the cartop)
• Two-sided tape
• Rags
• Garbage bag
• Shim material for base plate and rail brackets (the base plate shims should be metal,
the rail brackets shims should be to local codes and standards)
Use the packing slip, the following diagrams and lists to check that the shipment is complete
and undamaged within 48 hours of delivery. Report any damage to Cambridge Elevating, that
was not noticed when the elevator was delivered, as soon as it is found and any missing parts
within a week of delivery. The packing list will tell you what is in each box, in the cab, on each
pallet and attached to the sling.
CAB FLOOR 29 C6
CAB FLOOR TOE GUARD 29 C6-B
COP 38 E3
BASE PLATE 11 M8
CAR GATE ASSEMBLY 43, 44 M9
The following tasks can be done in the shop or at the site prior to starting the installation
• Preassembling rail clips (M3-C) to the coded strips (M21, M22) and limit switch cams
(M32)
Material required:
Tools recommended:
o Rags
o Garbage bag
o Thread sealant
• 1-inch wrench
• 1 ¼ inch wrench
• Adjustable wrench
• 1 ¼ inch wrench
• Adjustable wrench
Procedures:
o Wipe down the rails with a clean rag to remove the residue. In some cases, mineral
spirits may be required.
o Check the rails for any damage to the machined surfaces, tongues, grooves, and
resolve any issues.
o Insert the threaded rods of the shackles into the holes in the jack post top (refer to
diagram 27a)
o Install the following in order, large flat washer, small flat washer, and two nuts (M6-H)
o Install the cotter pin into each shackle and bend it over
o Install the bolt (M3-CH) through the clip (M3-C) refer to diagram 12a
o Install onto the bolt in the following order, washer, lock washer, nut (M3-CH). Refer to
diagram 12a
o Assemble the nuts and washers onto the threaded rod (C7-H) and through the cab
attachment bracket (C7-A) (as per diagram 35a)
• Preassembling rail clips (M3-C) to the coded strips (M21 AND M22) and limit switch cams
(M32)
o Install 2 rail clips (M3-C) on each coded strip. Refer to diagram 12x
• Note: It is very important to keep all parts of the hydraulic system clean. Any
debris that gets into a hose or connector will find its way into the hydraulic
valve and likely cause problems with the valve.
• Using a thread sealant, connect the 1 to ½ inch reducing flitting into the line
rupture valve
• Using thread sealant, install the ½ inch coupling into the reducing fitting
• Using thread sealant, connect the longest hose to the ½ inch coupling
• Using a thread sealant, connect the 1-inch to ¾-inch reducing fitting (H4-B) into
the line rupture valve (H4-A)
• Using thread sealant, install the 3/4-inch coupling into the reducing fitting (H4-B)
• Using thread sealant, connect the longest hose (H4-A) to the ½ inch coupling
(H4-B)
M7-A
M3-A/B
The procedure below references your final elevation drawings that were shipped with the
elevator. Please see the sample layout and elevation diagrams 7a and 7b for directions on
where on the final drawings you will find the required information.
NOTE: Often there are several versions of the elevation and layout drawings made
during the order process. The information on these preliminary drawings will likely be
incorrect. If you are unsure that you have the latest version, contact technical support
for assistance.
It is recommended that at least 4 weeks prior to the installation (and when you arrive to start
the installation) that the site is checked for the following (in order to verify that the shaft
dimensions and everything else shown on the final diagrams are correct).
If the travel cable hoistway cable and hydraulic hose are to be ran inside conduit or sleeves or
walls, note the following.
• The travel cable is nearly 3 inches wide and will not pull through tight bends or multiple
bends very well
• 4 inch or larger conduit may be required for the travel cable depending on the number
and degree of bends.
• Alternatively, we may be able to provide a round cable to get to the hoistway and then
transition to the flat travel cable but this will entail a higher cost.
• The Cat5 cables will not take excess strain and hard handling. We suggest you pull
extra Cat5 cables.
Material required:
Tools recommended:
• Flashlight
Procedure:
Using the final approved site diagrams (refer to diagram 7A and 7B for sample layout and
elevation diagram), confirm the following
• The shaft width is correct at each landing, refer to sample layout diagram 7A note: A.
• The shaft depth is correct at each landing, refer to sample layout diagram 7A note: B
• The rail wall construction is per specifications, refer to sample layout diagram 7A note:
C
• The location of the controller and power unit is as per plan, refer to sample layout
diagram 7A note: D
• The 220 and 120 power plugs are or will be installed within 3 feet of the right side of the
main controller’s location, diagram 23A Controller and HPU detail
• The rough door openings at each landing are inline and the correct size and framed with
2X4 lumber.
• If the landing door wall is made with 2x6 lumber, the door will either need to be inset or
a door baffle will need to be installed.
• Swing door openings should typically be 2 inches wider then the door width and 2 ½
inches higher.
• The pit is or will be free from debris and liquids, clean and level.
• Establish a path for the cylinder and sling to get into the hoistway
o Note: In some cases, the cylinder may need to be placed in or near the
shaft at an earlier stage of construction or craned into place.
Contact your sales engineer or technical support (1-800-265-3579) at Cambridge Elevating as
soon as possible if any of the measurements or details vary from the final diagrams. Have the
exact measurements ready when you call and we will check to see if any of the site differences
will affect your installation.
• It may be possible to keep material like the cab and sling in the transport vehicle until
they are required, or everything may need to be unpacked into a staging area, or
directly to where it will be needed.
• This procedure will assume you are bringing things to each area in stages.
• In some cases, the cylinder may need to be hoisted into the shaft before the roof is on
the building
• Materials and tools required for a running sling should be brought to the floor where
they will be required.
• Consult the elevation diagram to determine what material would be required at each
landing. Floor height, short rail location, hydraulic power unit, and the controller location
will affect how the material is distributed.
• Hydraulic lines may be 1 or more hoses, hard pipe or a combination of the two. This
procedure will assume the project is using 1 or 2 hydraulic lines.
• In many cases, it is better to lower rails down from the floor above
Materials required
• Spacers for jack post and cylinder bracket (if required) (M7D and M7E)
• Rail bracket (M3-A) mounting hardware (one bag per bracket) (M3-H)
• Rail clips (M3-C) (4 per bracket plus 4 for the baseplate (M8)
• Jack post topper (M7-A) with 2 shackles (M6-C) and shackle hearts (2) (M6-D)
Tools required
• None
Procedure
o 4 rail clips (M3-C) per rail bracket (M3-A) plus 4 rail clips (M3-C) for the base
plate
o Line rupture valve with fittings and hose (H5, H4-A, H4-B)
o Hydraulic hose if there are more then one being used (H4-A)
o One bag of rail bracket mounting hardware (M3-H) per rail bracket
o 1 bag of rail bracket mounting hardware (M3-H) per rail bracket (M3-A)
• The centerline of the rail system is not typically centered on the rail wall. Please check
your final layout diagram to determine your centerline
• The procedure below references your final drawings. The sample layout and elevation
diagrams 7a and 7b detail where the information can be found.
Materials required:
• None
Tools required:
• Chalk line
Procedure:
• Use the final layout diagram measurement of the rail system centerline to determine and
mark the centerline at the top of the shaft, refer to sample layout diagram note: E
• Using a plumb line mark the centerline at the bottom of the shaft
• Using a chalk line to mark the centerline up the entire rail wall is recommend as the
plumb line will swing at the slightest touch and you will need to wait for it to stop.
• How the rail brackets (M3-A) are attached to the rail wall depends on the construction
of the rail wall and is up to a structural engineer. Below are our recommendations based
on a typical installation.
o Note: If you require large shims to make the rail brackets (M3-A) plumb, you will
need to increase the length of the hardware to ensure the strength of the
attachment is not lessened
o Note: If your project requires “LULA” type adjustable rail brackets (M3-A), refer
to option Y for details on how this will affect your installation.
• The jack post and cylinder brackets should be shimmed so that the rail clips are in the
center of the slot on the mounting brackets. This will make sure the cylinder is plumb
and true. For all the other rail brackets, the play in the slots will allow you to make up for
minor fluctuations in the rail wall without shimming.
Options for fastening rail brackets (M3-A) to the rail wall and typical recommended methods
and hardware.
Other options
• Though bolting can be used in some cases, consult the building engineer for hardware
specifications.
• Unistrut concrete inserts (M3-D) (available from Cambridge Elevating) with strut nuts
and bolts (M3-H) : ½ inch strut nuts ½-inch -13 x 1-3/4-inch bolts and washers
• For a structural steel hoistway, the rail brackets (M3-A) can be welded or bolted in
place. Consult the building engineer for specifications.
• Local elevator and safety codes and regulations should always be followed when
working at height within and near a hoistway.
• Methods for safe access may include: ladders, temporary platforms, metal scaffolding,
and hoists. All of the above methods have safety rules, regulations, training and best
practices associated with them.
• Warning signs and barriers should be used in front of open doorways and unsecured
doors
• Communication with fellow workers is critical to working safely together but especially
when they are directly above/below you.
• Applicable personal safety equipment should always be worn and may include: hard
hats, safety glasses, dust masks, safety footwear, safety harnesses and more.
• A gap will be required at the rail wall in order to install the rails and brackets. Typically,
12 inches is allowed by code.
Procedure:
Each dealer should establish their own procedures for working in and around elevator shafts
based on the above considerations.
The following procedure is for standard residential rail brackets (M3-A). If your project calls for
wide, narrow or commercial style rail brackets, refer to Option A.
How the brackets are attached to the wall depends on the wall construction, refer to section 8.
There are 5 holes for mounting on each rail bracket (M3-A). The 2 outer ones on each side
must be bolted to the wall. The center hole is provided mainly to assist with mounting and is
not required to be bolted or lagged to the wall.
NOTE: the slots in the rail brackets rail clip holes will allow you to compensate for
variations in the rail wall of up to ½ inch. However, this adjustability should not be
used for the cylinder and jack post brackets. These brackets should be shimmed
out if necessary, such that the rail clips are centered in the slots. Failure to do this
may result in the cylinder being out of plumb.
Materials required:
• Shim material ⅛ to ¾
Tools recommended:
• Bullet level
• Hammer drill
• Hammer
Procedure:
• Mark all the rail bracket (M3-A) heights as per the final Elevation diagram, refer to
sample elevation diagram notes: F thru P
• Mount the top rail bracket (M3-A) using the established centerline and the mounting
height from the pit floor using one of the fastening methods established in section 8.
Note: be careful not to deform the rail bracket (M3-A) as it will change the distance
between the guide rails (M2). Use shim material (not provided) as required to prevent
this. Refer to rail bracket (M3-A) detail diagram note: A
• Install the remaining fasteners (M3-H) and tighten each one.
• The distance between the ends of the rail brackets’ (M3-A) arms should be between 32
½ and 32 ⅝ inches, refer to rail bracket (M3-A) detail diagram 10a note: B
• Drop a plumb line from each of the arms of the top rail bracket (M3-A)
Note: check the final elevation diagram to see if the bottom rail bracket (M3-A) is a
jack post bracket (M4-A), refer to sample elevation diagram 7b note: F and G for an
example.
• Measure the distance from each plumb line to the wall at the bottom rail bracket (M3-A)
location
▪ If the distance is less then 6 ⅞ inches than the top bracket will need to
be loosened and have shims installed
▪ If the distance is more then 7 ⅜ inches than the bottom bracket will need
to be shimmed out
• Check the hoistway diagrams to see if the bottom rail bracket (M3-A) is a jack post
bracket (M4-A)
• Install the bottom rail bracket (M3-A) in the same fashion as the top bracket shimming
out to meet the plumb lines and levelling, refer to the rail bracket (M3-A) detail
diagram 10a note: B
• Check that the distance between the arms of the rail bracket (M3-A) is between 32 ½
and 32 ⅝ inches, change the shims as required to maintain this measurement. refer to
rail bracket (M3-A) detail diagram 10a note: B
• Tie the plumb lines off to the outer slots on the end of each rail bracket (M3-A), making
sure the string is tight and 7 ⅛ inch from the wall. Refer to the rail wall detail diagram
10a note: D
• Check the plans to find the position of the cylinder bracket (M4) (diagram 7A Note F)
• Install the remaining rail brackets (M3) using the above plumb line to assist in making
them plumb, level and true.
o The string should be within a ¼ inch of the center of the outer slot
Materials required:
• Baseplate (M8)
Tools recommended:
• Broom
• Coal chisel
• Hammer
• Metal shims
• Short level
Procedure:
• Sweep the area directly beneath the rail wall, where the baseplate (M8) will be placed
• Remove any lumps so that the area where the baseplate (M8) will sit is flat and smooth.
• Set the cylinder baseplate (M8) directly under the bottom rail bracket (M3-A), refer to rail
wall detail diagram 12a note: E
• Check that the baseplate (M8) is sitting level side to side and front to back and use
metal shims (not provided) if necessary, to make it level.
Note: Wooden shims can be compressed by the weight of the rail wall, therefore
if shims are required metal ones are recommended
• Do not bolt it in place yet, that can be done after the cylinder and second rail is in place.
• Refer to the rail wall detail diagram 10a, the sample elevation diagram 7b and the
final elevation diagram for your project.
• The right side of the rail wall is the side on your right when you are standing in the pit
facing the rail wall.
• Consult your final elevation diagram for the location of any short (not full length) rails.
They can be at the bottom, top or both, refer to Your elevation diagram 7b note: Q.
• One end of the full-length rails has a tongue and the other has a groove. This allows
them to lock together as they run up the length of the shaft.
• The tongue (male) end should always face up, refer to rail wall detail diagram 10a
note: F.
• The protective coating can be removed from the rails before they are installed.
• As the rails are being fitted together, check that the ends are undamaged and free of
dirt and debris as it will keep the rails from fitting together tightly.
Materials required:
• Almost half of the rail clips (M3-C) (some are used later to mount parts of the
positioning system)
Tools recommended:
• Rags
• Gloves
• Rail files
• Long level
• Attach the first rail (M2) to the baseplate (M8) with the rail clips (M3-C) hand tight
• If the first rail is a full rail (M2-A) or a cut rail (M2-B) long enough that it passes a rail
bracket (M3-A), refer to the rail wall detail diagram note: A
o Attach the rail (M2) to the rail bracket (M3-A) with rail clips (M3-C), hand tight.
o Measure the distance from the center of the rail face to the front of the rail
bracket (M3-A)
o Adjust the above measurement to 5 inches, refer to the rail wall detail
diagram 10a note: B
o Plumb the rail (M2) using the 5-foot level placed on the front and the side of the
rail
o Shift the baseplate (M8) if necessary, so that the rail (M2) is plumb and true
o Tighten the rail clips (M3-C) at the baseplate (M8), and confirm the rail is still
plumb in both directions
o Repeat the above steps for any other brackets the first rail passes
o Attach the first rail (M2) to the second with a splice plate (M2-C) and hardware
(M2-CH), refer to rail wall detail diagram 10a note: F
o Use the long level on the front and side faces of the rail to ensure it is true
o Tighten the splice plate hardware (M2-CH) , and confirm the rail is till true
o Attach the second rail to the first rail bracket (M3-A) with rail clips (M3-C), hand
tight, refer to rail wall detail diagram 10a note: G
o Measure the distance from the center of the rail face to the front of the rail
bracket (M3-A)
o Adjust the above measurement to 5 inches, refer to rail wall detail diagram
10a note: B
o Check that the rail is running true by checking for plumb on each face of the rail
using the long level
o Shift the baseplate (M8) if necessary, so that the rail is plumb and true
o Repeat the above steps for any other brackets the rails pass
Note: splice plates can be put on after the rails are clipped in place as long as the
rails are properly lined up.
• Attach the rail to the rail brackets (M3-A) with rail clips (M3-C) as you pass each one
• Level the rail and check the 5-inch distance from the rail center to the rail bracket (M3-
A) is maintained
• Repeat the above 3 steps until you reach the top of the shaft
o Go back over the entire rail with the long level and make fine adjustments if
necessary.
o Go back over the rail checking for any rough edges at the splices or damage.
o File as necessary so that the three rail faces are clean and smooth from the
bottom to the top. This will ensure a smooth ride later.
Note: Do not install the right-side rails at this time. The sling will need to be installed first.
• Confirm the jack post length is correct as per the final elevation diagram, refer to
sample elevation diagram 7b note: R for location
• The below procedure covers projects that are using 70, 80 and 90mm oil lift cylinders
(H1). For 100mm cylinders and ITI cylinders, please refer to option E. Refer to sample
packing list 1a and 1b note: A for the location of cylinder information
Parts required:
Tools recommended:
Procedure:
• Install the jack post (M7-C) inside the angled pieces on the baseplate (M8), refer to
cylinder/ jack post detail diagram 13a note: A
• Place the jack post top onto the jack post, making sure it is oriented correctly, refer to
cylinder/ jack post detail diagram 13a note: B
• Install the squared U-bolt (M7-B) around the jack post (M7)
and through the holes in the spacers (M7-D, M7-E) and
attach using the supplied nuts and washers to the rail
bracket (M3-A), refer to the jack post/ cylinder detail
diagram 13a note: C
• Check that the jack post (M7) is plumb and true using your
long level, and the 5 inches from the center of the rail to
the rail bracket (M3-A) and from the center of the jack post
Consult the cylinder (H1) and jack post (M7) detail diagram 13A for details.
It may be necessary to temporarily remove some of the scaffolding in order to maneuver the
cylinder (H1) into the shaft. In some cases, it may be easier to get the cylinder into the shaft
before the scaffolding is built.
• Check your packing list (refer to sample packing list 1a and 1b note: A) or measure
the circumference of the cylinder to determine the size of the cylinder.
OR
• Check the data plate on the cylinder for the part number
Material required:
Tools recommended:
• Long level
Procedure:
• Safely lower the cylinder (H1) into the hoistway with the piston up and place the bottom
end onto the jack post top (M7-A). The bolt on the bottom of the cylinder will fit into the
hole on the jack post top, refer to cylinder and jack post detail diagram note: B
• It is recommended that you leave the shipping bracket, sheave bolt, and plastic drain
elbow in place until you are ready to install the sheave in a later procedure. It may be
necessary to cut some of the plastic wrap off the top of the cylinder if it will end up
where the U-bolt attaches.
• Install the U-bolt (M4-B) around the cylinder, through the spacer (M7-D) if required, and
through the bracket on the cylinder bracket (M4), refer to the cylinder/jack post detail
diagram 14a note: D
• Attach the U-bolt (M4-B) to the bracket with the supplied nuts and washers, hand tight
• Check that the cylinder (H1) is true (plumb side to side and front to back) using the long
level, shift if necessary
• Confirm that the jack post (M7) and cylinder (H1) are still true
• The distance from the rail bracket back plate to the jack post should be 3.5 inches (5
inches to the center)
• Do not tighten the U-bolt (M4-B) at this time, the cylinder (H1) will need to be rotated in
order to attach the hydraulic fittings (H4-B) and LRV (H5)
• The cross piece (M1-B) on the front of the sling (M1) and the leg extensions can be
removed and reinstalled after the sling is in place if necessary, to get the assembly into
the hoistway.
Materials required:
Tools recommended:
• Gloves
Procedure:
• Pull up on the shackles (M6-C) until they are out as far as they can come and lock them
in place with two sets of vice grips. This will disengage the safeties (brakes) and allow
the sling to slide onto the rails. Refer to sling detail diagram 15a note: A
• Adjust the main blue eccentric rollers in order to increase the size of the gap for the rail
if necessary, refer to sling detail diagram 15a note: B
• Adjust the side rollers to decrease the distance between the left and right-side rollers if
necessary, refer to sling detail diagram 15a note: C
• Inspect the rollers for damage and clean if
necessary
• Lower the sling into the pit, using the chain fall if
required
• The sling cross piece (M1-B) may be shipped installed, uninstalled or removed in order
to get the sling into the hoistway. If it is still installed you can skip this procedure
• The sling cross piece (M1-B) is installed across the end of the sling’s legs
• The 4 angled pieces it attaches too are attached to the sling legs with bolts that are only
hand tight. This is because you will need to shift them to line up all the bolts with their
holes.
Materials required:
Tools recommended:
Procedure:
• Set the sling extension (M1-C) at the front of the sling legs and align
• Use bolts and washers in the sling hardware kit (M1-BH) to attach the cross piece (M1-
B)
• Check that the top of the cross piece (M1-B) and the top surface of the sling legs are
flush. Adjust the position of the cross piece until it is flush.
• Tighten all the bolts that hold the cross piece (M1-B) to the brackets and the brackets
to the legs (20 bolts in total)
• Refer to the rail wall detail diagram 10a, the latest elevation diagram and the sling
detail diagram 15a for details on the following procedure.
• You should have enough rail clips (M3-C) and hardware (M3-CH) left over to install the
limit switch cams (M32) and coded strips (M21, M22) (part of the positioning system)
later in the install. You will need four plus two for each stop.
Materials required:
Tools recommended:
• ¾ inch socket
• ¾ inch wrenches
• Rags
• Gloves
• Rail files
• Long level
Procedure:
Note: You will need to lower the first and possibly the second rail down through the
sling rollers.
• Attach the first rail (M2) to the baseplate (M8) with the rail clips (M3-C) hand tight
o Attach the rail to the bracket with rail clips (M3-C), hand tight.
o Measure the distance from the center of the rail face to the front of the rail
bracket (M3-A) and adjust to 5 inches
o Shift the baseplate (M8) if necessary, so that the rail (M2) is plumb and true
o Attach the first rail to the second with a splice plate (M2-
C)
o Attach the second rail to the first rail bracket (M3-A) with
rail clips (M3-C), hand tight.
• Attach a splice plate (M2-C) to the top of the last rail (M2)
• Attach the rail (M2) to the rail bracket (M3-A) with rail clips (M3-
C) as you pass each one
• Level the rail (M2) and check the 5-inch distance from the rail
center to the rail bracket (M3-A) is maintained.
• Repeat the 4 steps above until you reach the top of the shaft
o Go back over the entire rail (M2) with the long level and
make fine adjustments if necessary.
o Go back over the rail (M2) checking for any rough edges
at the splices or damage
• The below instructions are for a standard cylinder (H1) and a standard sling (M1), for
special slings and cylinders refer to the index in order to find the options that will give
you alternate instructions.
• Pipe dope is preferred over thread tape as thread tape can contaminate the valve.
• Keeping all fitting (H4-B), pipe (not included) and hose (H4-A) clean will ensure you will
not contaminate the hydraulic oil. Contamination will travel to the hydraulic valve and
will cause internal leakage issues later on. Please keep caps on the hose, pipe ends
and fittings until they are required and clean everything as you go with lint free clothes.
Materials required:
• Hydraulic hose (H4-A) and/or pipe as per local codes and standards
Tools recommended:
o ⅞ inch wrench
o 1-inch wrench
o 1 ¼ inch wrench
o Adjustable wrench
o 1-inch wrench
o 1 ¼ inch wrench
o Adjustable wrench
• 13mm wrench
Procedure:
• If the line rupture valve was not preassembled, assemble it now as per section 4
• Rotate the cylinder (H1) to gain access to the oil port near the bottom of the cylinder
• Remove the plate that covers the port with a 6mm allen key
• Place the O ring that came with the line rupture valve in the groove around the cylinders
oil port
• Mount the line rupture valve over the O ring so the adjuster is on the top
• Install the four bolts (and washers) that come with the LRV (H5) and tighten with a 6mm
allen key
• Turn the cylinder (H1) so that the LRV (H5) is on your right and almost touching the rail
wall. In this position, the LRV will clear the sling (M1), shackles (M6-C), and safeties.
• Tighten the U-bolt (M4-B) holding the cylinder (H1) with a 9/16th inch wrench once you
are sure you won’t need to move it to access the plumbing connections
• Run the hydraulic lines (H4-A) back to the Hydraulic Power Unit’s (H2) location
Note: Hydraulic lines can vibrate slightly when the elevator is running up, make
sure the pipes and hoses are properly secured and do not touch anything
against which they might vibrate and cause noise.
• Set the line rupture valve (H5) (if not done already)
o Turn the allen key adjustable rod all the way out and then in one turn, using a
4mm allen key.
• The OLS cylinder (H1) is designed such that the piston rod stays wet and a small
amount of oil collects in the pocket at the top of the case around the seal. A drain hose
(H3) needs to connect to the top of the cylinder (H1) to drain the oil collected either
back to the hydraulic power unit (H2) or down to a container in the bottom of the shaft.
Materials required:
• Appropriate clips to attach the plastic line to the wall (not supplied)
• Plastic right-angled connector that comes attached to the top of the cylinder
Tools recommended:
Procedure:
• Turn the plastic fitting into the hole at the top of the cylinder (H1)
• Run the drain line to the power units’ tank or if not possible to a 2L jug in the pit against
the rail wall
• Clip the hose to the wall as necessary, being careful not to kink the line.
Tip: Occasionally the oil will not drain due to air in the lines. Drilling a very small hole in the
top of the drain elbow will resolve this issue.
• This procedure is designed for standard cylinders (H1) and slings (M1). Refer to the
appropriate options for details.
Materials required:
Tools recommended:
• 11/16 wrench
• ½ inch wrench
Procedure:
• Remove the shipping bracket that holds the plunger rod in place and discard
• Reinstall the allen bolt that was holding the shipping bracket
• Disassemble the thick bottom plate of the sheave (set aside the hardware)
• Mount the sheave plate to the top of the cylinder using the large bolt from earlier step
• Install the sheave between the rails, loosening the shoe brackets as necessary
• Reattach the thick bottom sheave plate to the sheave (with the hardware you set aside
earlier)
• Adjust the sheave shoe brackets so there is a 1/16-inch gap between the internal face
of the rail and the inside of each shoe
• Using your long level laying across the rails (M2), adjust the shoes so that the sheave
assembly (M5) is parallel to the rail bracket (M3-A) see drawing 20A
NOTE: the sheave shoes should be in the middle of the slots, and the same on
each side. If the shoes are not centered in the slots it is an indication that the
cylinder may be out of plumb.
• Loosen the bolts holding the top sheave plate. Removing this later will assist in roping
the sheave
Materials Required:
Tools recommended:
• Gloves
• 1/2-inch wrench
Procedure:
• Remove the electrical tape that is holding the wire rope (M6-A) in a coil
• Do not remove the tape on the ends of the cable as it keeps the ends from unraveling
and protects you from the sharp ends of the wires
• Removing the sheaves (M5) top plate will make running the cables (M6-A) over the
sheave easier
• Run the cables up (M6-A) through the lower left of the sheave wheel and down and out
the bottom right then to the shackles (M6-C) on the sling refer to diagram 21A
• Run the ropes (M6-A) into the shackles (M6-C) and out the bottom, making sure not to
cross the ropes, refer to sling roping detail diagram 21A
• Place a heart (M6-D) against each rope, wrap a loop around it and then route it back up
through the same shackle, refer to sling roping detail diagram 21A
• Make sure at least one foot of rope extends past the top of the shackle
• Pull the rope tight in order to pull the heart (M6-D) into the shackle (M6-C)
• Install one clip (M6-B) 3/8 of an inch above the top of the shackle
• Install one clip (M6-B) 1 1/8 inches above the first clip
• Bind the two shackles (M6-C) together using two heavy zip ties to prevent rotation
• The controller (E2) can be mounted to the hydraulic power unit (H2) with the supplied
brackets (E2-B) and supplied hardware (E2-BH) or mounted directly to a wall (hardware
not provided).
• All wire lengths provided are calculated based on the location of the controller that was
specified in the elevator order. Changing the location of the controller and power unit
can result in the travel cable (E5) and the other wires (E11, E7) being either too short or
too long.
• The following factors should be taken into account when deciding where to locate the
main controller (E2).
o How the hydraulic lines (H4) can be run to the controller (E2)
o How the travel cable (E5) and other cables (E7, E11) can be run to the controller
(E2)
Note: It is very important that contamination (metal filings, dirt and dust) be kept
out of the oil and fittings. Make sure the top of the buckets, funnels and fittings
are clean before use.
Materials required:
• Controller mounting arms (E2-B) (with 3/8th-inch bolts and nuts attached) (E2-BH)
Tools recommended:
• Large funnel
• 9/16th-inch wrench
Procedure:
• Place the hydraulic power unit (H2) within 3 feet of the 220vac pump and 120vac
lighting power plugs, on the left side when you are facing the disconnects.
• Attach the two controller mounting arms (E2-B) to the power unit with the 3/8th-inch
bolts and nuts, which are shipped attached to the arms (E2-BH).
• While the controller is held in place 14 inches above the tank lid, mark the location of
the top two screws on the plywood.
• Set the controller down and install the top two screws half way in.
• Adjust the length of the 220vac BX cable as necessary and connect to the power unit
electrical box with hardware supplied in the box. Be sure to use the supplied anti-short
inside the end of the BX cable.
• Make the following connections using the supplied wire connectors, the wiring diagram
is supplied inside the pouch on the back of the lid to the junction box.
• Run the black 6 conductor cable into the power unit electrical box using the electrical
fittings supplied in the box.
• Connect the valve control wires like colour to like colour (i.e. red to red, black to
black….) using the disconnects supplied. The wiring diagram is supplied inside the
pouch on the back of the lid to the junction box.
• Connect the hydraulic lines (H4) to the power unit’s ball valve, we advise using at least 2
feet of flexible hydraulic hose at the pump connection if the rest was hard-piped. This is
allowed by code within the machine room (in most jurisdictions) and helps with the
transmission of vibrations to the pipe.
Note: a 90-degree fitting is provided and may be used here to turn the hose
quicker in towards the wall.
• Open the ball valve at the power unit connection.
• Add 4 pails of type 32 hydraulic oil to the tank using a large funnel.
• Connect the 220 and 120 plugs to the 220 and 120 outlets provided by the electrician.
o If local codes and standards require a hardwired connection, remove the cords
and plugs and wire directly to the disconnects with a minimum of 10awg wire.
• Connect the BES3 remote pendant (provided with your first purchase) to the labeled
connector on the left side of the main controller board.
o If you have a non BES3 remote, refer to page 24 of the electrical package for
how to connect it to the screw terminals
• Turn on the pump and lighting disconnect and connect the battery leads to the batteries
inside the controller.
• Slide the installation switch on the controller circuit board to the right, “INSTALL”.
• Press the up button for 2 seconds to confirm that the pump will run.
• Cover the hydraulic power unit with the large plastic bag that is shipped inside the
HPU’s electrical box. This will keep the power unit clean.
• If the power unit (H1) will not run with the pendant (E38), refer to the BES3 service
manual section E
• The hydraulic power units (H1) are adjusted and tested before shipping, although fine-
tuning may be required (best to wait until the end of the project). The pump will operate
without any adjustments.
Materials required:
• None
Tools recommended:
• ½ inch wrench
Procedure:
• Locate the bleed screw near the top of the cylinder and gain access
• Turn the bleed screw halfway, the bolt is ground on one side so that it will let the air out.
o Press up on the remote pendant (E38) until the cylinder (H1) moves a few inches
o Push down on the cylinder to force air out and then repeat above
Tip: stand to one side with a rag ready to go, as oil will come out when the air
stops
• As the oil moves into the top of the cylinder, the pitch of the sound will increase
• Sliding the high-speed switch off as the oil gets closer will limit the amount of oil that
comes out. It is located in the middle of the main controller board.
• Continue forcing the air out of the cylinder (by running the power unit) until oil starts to
come out, then stop.
NOTE: This will remove the majority of the air, but after a few hours of sitting
an air pocket will reform at the top of the cylinder as the air mixed in with the
oil settles out. It is advisable after 30 minutes or more of not running the lift to
turn out the bleed screw half way and release that air. The air can also be bled
before running the elevator the morning of the second day.
• None
Materials Required:
Tools recommended:
• None
Procedure:
• Check the final elevation diagram for the pre-stroke measurement, refer to the example
elevation diagram 7b note E
• Turn the high-speed switch off (on the main controller circuit board)
• Extend the cylinder (H1) using the remote pendant station (E38)
• Hold a measuring tape up to measure the distance between the top of the cylinders
casing and the bottom of the sheave plate, refer to the pre-stroke detail diagram 25a
• Stop when the distance between the top of the cylinders casing and the bottom of the
sheave plate is equal to the pre-stroke distance, refer to the pre-stroke detail diagram
25a
Note: If you overextend the cylinder (H1), use the down button and some
persuasion to push the jack back in. You may have to add weight to the top of
the cylinder in order to get the cylinder to go down.
• You will need to know the finished flooring thickness for the cab and the main floor. You
will need this for the other floors later when levelling the floors.
Material required:
• None
Tools recommended:
• None
Procedure:
• Find out if there will be a difference between the thickness of flooring going into the cab
and onto the landing. Be sure to account for any material that will be in between the
rough floor and the finished floor
• Using the above information, lift the sling so that the finished floor of the cab and the
finished floor of the landing will be at the same level
• None
Materials Required:
• 2 shackles (M6-C)
Tools recommended:
Procedure:
• Install the shackles (M6-C), if the shackles were not installed on the jack post topper
(M7-A) earlier
o Remove the cotter pin, nuts and washers from the shackles
o Insert the two shackles down through the holes in the jack post top
o Add the large washer, small washer, and the two nuts onto each of the shackles
threaded rods until the nuts are halfway up the rods. This will allow you some
room to adjust the rope length later by +/- 4.5 inches, or +/- 9 inches of travel.
• Run the ropes (M6) into the shackles and out the bottom, making sure not to cross the
ropes, refer to jack post roping detail diagram 27a
• Place a heart (M6-D) against each rope, wrap a loop around it and then route it back up
through the same shackle. refer to jack post roping detail diagram 27a
• Make sure at least one foot of rope extends past the top of the shackle
• Pull the rope tight in order to pull the heart into the shackle
• Install one clip (M6-B) ⅜th of an inch above the top of the shackle
• Install one clip (M6-B) 1 ⅛th inches above the first clip
• Make sure any extra ropes will not interfere with the travel of the sling. The excess
ropes will be cut off after the proper operation of the roped hydraulic system has been
confirmed.
• The sling extensions (M1-C) at the top of the sling (M1) may be shipped in a
lowered position for shipping. They may need to be extended to the proper height.
• The height that the extensions (M1-C) should extend changes based on several factors,
cab height, floor thickness greater than 1.5 inches, and size of the sling legs.
• This procedure is for cab heights of 84 and 96 inches, with 1.5-inch floors and standard
sling legs, for other cab heights, thicker floors, and “super slings” refer to the list of
special options in the front of the manual for direction to the proper procedures
• The objective is for the center of the large slots (through which the threaded rod will go)
to end up 1.5 inches above the cab’s ceiling (Interior cab height + floor thickness +
ceiling thickness + 1.5 inches).
Materials Required:
• None
Tools recommended:
Procedure:
• Remove the bolts ( M1-CH) holding each of the sling extensions (M1-C) in place.
o The distance from the surface the floor sits on to the middle of the large slots
needs to be 100 ½ inches.
o The distance from the surface the floor sits on to the middle of the large slots
needs to be 88 ½ inches.
• The objective is for the weight of the sling to be supported by the four white rollers and
for the four blue rollers to only lightly touch the rails. It is very easy to put too much
pressure on the adjustable blue rollers due to the eccentric shaft design and the length
of the wrenches handle.
• The side rollers should also be lightly touching the rails as the lift travels from top to
bottom.
Materials Required:
• None
Tools recommended:
• 1 ¼ inch wrench
Procedure:
• Confirm that the four eccentric blue main rollers are adjusted away from the rails. Refer
to diagram 30b
• Make sure the white rollers are adjusted so that the green paint mark is as far away
from the rail as possible
• Shift the sling until it is straight and centered by ensuring the inside edge of the rollers
are flush with the inside face of the rails
• Tighten the four side rollers until they touch the rail but can still be easily turned by
hand
Note: Do not use the side rollers to force the rails apart and increase the
DBG. The side rollers should not be under load.
• Tighten the four adjustable blue main rollers (bottom ones first) until they make contact
with the rails but can still be easily turned by hand
o Use the 15/16th socket to loosen the nut on the inside of the rail, then turn the
shaft of the roller with a 1 ¼ inch wrench. Tighten in place with the socket. See
diagram 30D and 30E
• Re-check that all side and adjustable blue main rollers are touching the rail but still can
be turned by hand
• The floor (C6) needs to be perfectly level, square to the hoistway, and in the correct
position or the cab will be out of square, out of plumb or in the wrong position later in
the install.
Materials Required:
Tools recommended:
Procedure:
• Consult the cab layout diagram in your final detail package to determine the orientation
of the floor (C1)
• Orientate the floor (C6) as per your final cab layout diagram
• Use the final cab layout diagram to set the clearances between the cab floor and each
of the landing(s)
• Use the final cab layout diagram to set the clearances between the cab floor and each
of the other walls
• Mark the centerline for the landing doors (M10) on the cab floor as per the final layout
diagram
• Use the centerlines to check the position of the bottom floor landing doors (M10) if they
are installed. If not mark the centerline of the rough landing door opening and confirm
the door can be properly positioned within the opening and mark the exact location on
the floor of the opening.
• If the actual width of the shaft is not as per plans or your door locations are not located
where they should be, note the issues for now. Set the floor in the best possible
position. We will need to know any issues with the remainder of the shaft before we
decide what to do to resolve these issues.
• It is best not to permanently attach the floor (C6) until after the rollers and brakes are
adjusted and the proper travel of the sling has been confirmed. Two screws will hold it
from shifting for now.
• The knurled roller must be held so that it does not touch the rail, and is then pulled up
when the ropes go slack by the brake cables. There are two adjustments involved: the
position of the brake block and the tension on the cables when the ropes are tight.
Materials Required:
• Brake setting shim or something else 1/16th of an inch thick and narrow.
Tools recommended:
• 10mm wrench
Procedure:
• Loosen the four bolts that hold the brake block to the sling
• Loosen the brake cables so there is some slack, i.e. no tension on the cables. This is
accomplished by adjusting the nuts at the ends of each cables sheath to change the
tension of the cable inside
• Set each block so there is a 1/16th inch gap between the back of the block and the rail
using a shim
• Tighten the bolts that hold the block in position making sure the block remains parallel
to the rail
• Tighten the brake cables so there is tension on the cables, but the knurled brake rollers
are still in their lowest possible position. The shim can be used to confirm this by
making sure this gap is also 1/16th of an inch
• The result should be that the rail is centered between the knurled roller and the back of
the brake block. This will prevent the rail from rubbing on the block and the roller from
catching on a splice
• Before cab installation is the best time to make sure the safeties and slack rope switch
are activated properly when the ropes are slack and access is not impeded by the cab
walls.
Materials required:
• Blocking material to hold the sling (M1) six inches (approximately) above the pit floor for
easier access to the safeties and the slack rope switch. The material should be able to
safely hold up the 400lb sling.
Tools recommended:
• Flashlight
Procedure:
• Inspect the arm the slack rope switch is attached to, it should be horizontal. If it is not,
you will have to loosen the two bolts hold it, with a 7/16th inch wrench and reposition it
• Use the remote to move the sling up a foot off the pit floor
• Place blocking under the sling that is around six inches high such that it will hold up the
sling
• Lower the sling (using the remote) onto the blocking until the ropes go slack
• Inspect the paddle that the ropes attach to, it should have lowered down onto the slack
rope switch and activated it
• The knurled rollers should be making contact with the rails and have a little more room
to move. If the brakes do not seem to be adjusted properly return to section 31 and set
up the brakes again
• Lift the sling off the blocking using the remote and remove the blocking from the pit
floor
In preparation for moving the sling, any temporary platforms, ladders, or metal staging will
need to be removed.
Materials required:
None
Tools recommended:
Procedure:
• With a running sling (M1), the next step is to carefully move the sling up and down the
shaft from bottom to top and check for any issues with door opening locations and
setback, wall clearances, and that the sling travels smoothly and quietly up and down
the rails.
• This procedure also allows the opportunity to check that the hydraulic power unit (H2) is
functioning properly by running the sling up and down, fast and slow. Fine-tuning of
acceleration and down speeds will need to wait however until we have some more
weight on the sling, i.e.: when the cab and cartop equipment have been installed.
• If a hard stop has been specified for your project it should be installed at the top of the
rails before attempting to fully extend the cylinder. Refer to Option C for the procedure
for mounting the top hard stop.
Materials Required:
• None
Tools recommended:
• None
Procedure:
• Slide the high-speed switch on the main controller board (E2) to OFF
• Using the remote carefully move the platform up and down the shaft documenting the
following
• If any of the measurements are not as per your projects final drawings, you will need to
try and find the best possible location for the floor or identify changes that need to be
made to the shaft or the landings.
• Move the sling up slowly until the cylinder (H1) is fully extended
Note: In some cases, engineering may specify a top hard stop. In this case,
you will not be able to fully extend the cylinder.
• The cab floor (C1) should be 3 inches past the landing floor (plus or minus a ¼ inch).
This is your over travel. You will need to account for the flooring to be used in the cab
and at the landing.
• Adjust the nuts on both of the jack post shackles down half the extra
distance. This will lengthen the ropes and solve the issue.
o If the cab floor is between 1 inch below the landing floor to 2 ¾ inches past the
floor
• Adjust the nuts on both of the jack post shackles up 1/2 the extra distance.
This will lengthen the ropes and solve the issue.
o Example: The over travel is only 1 inch. 3-1= 2, therefore the over
travel is 2 inches little. The wire ropes will need to be shortened
by 1 inch to compensate, therefore the shackle nuts will need to
move up 1 inch.
• If the over travel is off by more than 6 inches in either direction, the sheave (M5) hits the
sling (M1) before the cylinder (H1) is fully extended, or the cab (C0) touches the ceiling
of the shaft before the cylinder is fully extended, document any measurements that
differ from your projects final drawings and call technical support.
• Lower the sling down into the pit and confirm the distance between the cab floor and
the landing floor (after considering the finished flooring) is at least 1 inch. This will
ensure that relevelling will work properly.
o Using a long level check that the floor is level in all directions. If it is not, you will
need to shim between the floor and the sling arms and/or the floor and the cross
piece in order to make it level in all directions
o Fasten the floor from below using 1 ¼ inch wood screws in the screw holes
provided
Note: Ensure the shims have screws going through them to hold them
in place.
o Recheck all your clearances.
• Run the platform up and down checking the quality of the ride.
Note: Down speed may be affected by the low weight on the sling.
• This procedure applies to standard elevator cabs. Refer to the options list in the front of
this manual for special instructions for nonstandard cabs
• Cabs are built either with bent metal brackets or welded frames
• The cab assembly hardware is shipped either in a bag inside the main components box
or with the cab when it is shipped fully assembled.
• Size of cab
• Height of cab
• Height of gates
• Full wall
• Return wall
• Bulkhead only
• No wall
• For cabs with only one gate opening, each full wall is marked on the outside with a
sticker stating one of the below:
• Top right
• Top left
• Top rear
• For a through cab (two cab gates across from each other) the full walls will be marked
with a sticker with one of the labels below:
• Top rear
• In most cases return walls, return/header walls and bulkheads cannot be installed
incorrectly and are therefore not marked. If two are almost identical they will be marked
appropriately.
Note: Your project may not have four walls and a wall may be just a header,
just a return, or a return and header attached together.
• Cab ceiling (C5)
• 5/16th inch bolts 2 to 4 inches long (C0-H) (depending on the thickness of the floor)
Tools recommended:
• ½ inch wrenches
• ½ inch sockets
• Impact wrench
Procedure:
• Move the sling (M1) to allow access below the elevator to the floor of the cab (C6), and
to the inside the elevator cab. Typically, this will be the lowest floor (stop 1) or stop 2.
Cab with three full walls, one gate and brackets (see drawings 34A)
• Move the wall labelled “TOP BACK” into the hoistway and place it on the floor across
from the opening
• Line up the holes in the floor with the holes in the brackets and bolt in place with the
floor screws hand tight
• Bring each full wall into the hoistway and position it according to the label on the back
of the wall
• Bolt each wall in place through the floor with 4 of the bolts (these may be longer if the
floor is thicker than typical)
Note: Washers are to be used when a bolt or nut is up against the wood
• Bolt between adjoining walls 3 inches above the floor and 17 inches above the floor
hand tight in order to stabilize the walls
• If you have a return wall or a return wall with a header attached, set it in place in the
opening and bolt it in place through the floor and to the adjoining wall at the bottom
• Using a ladder bolt any return walls with a header attached at the header end with one
or two bolts depending on the height of the header
• Using a ladder, bolt between each adjoining full wall and return wall at the top of each
wall, 3 inches and 17 inches from the top
• If you have a header only, you will need someone to hold it in place while you bolt it to
the adjoining walls with one or two bolts depending on the height of the header
• Move the cab if necessary, in order to access the ceiling and inside the cab at the same
time
• Bring the ceiling into the shaft and set it on the walls
Note: Washers are to be used when a bolt or nut is up against the wood
Cab with two openings across from each other (known as a through cab).
• Bring each full wall into the hoistway and position it according to the label on the back
of the wall.
• Bolt each wall in place through the floor with 4 of the bolts (these may be longer if the
floor is thicker than typical)
Note: Washers are to be used when a bolt or nut is up against the wood.
• If you have a return wall or a return wall with a header attached, set it in place in the
opening and bolt it in place through the floor and to the adjoining wall at the bottom.
• If you have a header only, you will need someone to hold it in place while you bolt it to
the adjoining walls.
• Move the cab if necessary, in order to access the ceiling and inside the cab at the same
time.
• Bring the ceiling into the shaft and set it on the walls.
• Bolt the ceiling to each wall hand tight with 4 bolts provided.
Note: Washers are to be used when a bolt or nut is up against the wood.
• Install the remaining bolts between walls 3 inches below and 17 inches below the
ceiling, hand tight.
Cab with two openings next to each other (known as a 90-degree cab)
• Bring each full wall into the hoistway and position it according to the label on the back
of the wall.
• Bolt each wall in place through the floor with 4 of the bolts (these may be longer if the
floor is thicker than typical)
Note: Washers are to be used when a bolt or nut is up against the wood.
• If you have a return wall or a return wall(s) with a header attached, set it in place in the
opening and bolt it in place through the floor and to the adjoining wall at the bottom.
• If you have a header only, you will need someone to hold it in place while you bolt it to
the adjoining walls.
• Move the cab if necessary, in order to access the ceiling and inside the cab at the same
time.
• Bring the ceiling into the shaft and set it on the walls/post.
• Bolt the ceiling to each wall/post hand tight with bolts provided.
Note: Washers are to be used when a bolt or nut is up against the wood.
• Install the remaining bolts between walls 3 inches below and 17 inches below the
ceiling, hand tight.
• Check the cab is still true and each wall is plumb. If not, you may need to loosen some
or all the bolts, straighten the cab and retighten.
Note: It is important the cab is square and level before the cab is attached to
the sling in order to prevent the sling from being put under stress and causing
premature wear of the rollers.
• Bolt the ceiling to each wall hand tight with 4 bolts provided.
Note: Washers are to be used when a bolt head or nut is up against the wood.
• Install the remaining bolts between walls 3 inches below and 17 inches below the
ceiling, hand tight.
• Check that the cab is plumb on each side, if necessary, shift the cab and hold it true.
• Check the cab is till true and each wall is plumb. If not, you may need to loosen some
or all the bolts, straighten the cab and retighten.
Note: it is important the cab is square and level before the cab is attached to
the sling in order to prevent the sling from being put under stress and causing
premature wear of the rollers.
• The cab (C0) should be square and each wall plumb before attaching the sling (M1) to
the cab (C0) with the sling mount brackets (C7-A) using the sling bracket hardware (C7-
H).
• The distance between the cab (C0) and the sling (M1) can vary due to site conditions.
You may have had to shift the cab to compensate for differences between your project’s
final drawings and site conditions.
Materials Required:
Tools recommended:
Procedure:
• Connect the two cab mount brackets (C7-A) to the two sling extensions (M1-C) using
the provided hardware (C7-H) as per diagram 35A and tighten fully.
• The location of the cab mounting bracket (C7) should be placed so that it will not
interfere with the mounting of other items on the ceiling of the cab. If you are planning
on mounting the limit switch cam (M32) on the left side then you should move the left
side cab mounting bracket (C7) towards the center of the cab as much as possible.
• Check that all the cab walls are still plumb and the cab is square.
• Attach each cab mounting bracket (C7) to the roof of the cab (C5) with 2 one-inch long
wood screws
• Check that the cab is still square and each wall is plumb
o If the cab is still square and true, install the remaining 22 screws
• This procedure will cover standard call stations (E6), dpi call stations, standard locks
(E10) and victory landing doors (M10-C). For other call station options (such as hand-
wave, exterior, keyed, or custom) and special-order door locks, check the table of
contents for your option and consult the appropriate section of this manual.
• This procedure assumes you are installing the low voltage wiring on the wall of the
shaft. You may be required to install the wiring inside the wall and/or in conduit due to
local codes, standards, company policy or for hoistway and cabs with windows and or
glass doors. We will not explain how to run conduit or “hide” the wiring in the shaft in
this manual.
• The Cat5 cable’s (E11) length is determined based on the information we were given. If
anything has changed (power unit relocated) one or more new cables may be required.
Materials Required:
Tools recommended:
• #2 Philips screwdriver
Procedure:
• Measure the intended path the cables will take from the controller to each call station
and compare to the supplied cables. If the cables are more than 10 feet too long or are
short, other cables may be required. Spare cables are suggested and available from our
parts department.
• Connect the cables for each call station at the main controller and run them out the side
of the box.
• Pull the cables up the shaft (typically one corner of the rail wall) leaving enough wiring
to reach the intended location of each call station.
Warning: the wires inside the Cat5 cables can be damaged if walked on,
stapled tightly or pulled into a conduit with force.
• If you can install the call station (E6) and lock (E10)at this time, go to section 36 for
instructions
• If the call station and lock cannot be installed at this time, you can either connect the
call station and interlock and temporarily mount them inside the shaft, or leave the
cables coiled up in the corner of the shaft and install the locks and call stations later.
o Screw the call station for each level to the inside of the shaft near the final
location with the circuit board facing out.
o Connect the blue (and white if DPI) cable(s) to the call station
Considerations:
• We recommend positioning the cartop MCU box (E1) in the middle of the roof of the
cab with the E-stop either towards or away from the rail wall
• The E-stop switch should be accessible from the landings without getting on the
cartop.
Materials Required:
• Cartop (E1)
Tools recommended:
Procedure:
• Place the cartop box on the roof of the cab and turn it so the E-stop button is either
towards or away from the rail wall. The light curtain cables will be coming out of one
side (for a single gate cab).
Note: The cartop box is equipped with strain relief bars where the cables exit
the box. The screws can be loosened and the bars removed until the wiring is
in place and then reinstalled and snugged against the wiring to prevent strain
being placed on the connectors.
• Install the cab lights (E4) and connect them to the wires from the lighting power
supplies that are extending from each side of the cartop box
• The two-wire cable is the slack rope harness. Extend the cable down the sling side of
the cab and connect to the outside two terminals on the slack rope switch. See drawing
37B.
o Run the cable from the limit switch assembly into the cartop box (E1) and
connect to “bottom & top limit” J17
o The limit switches (M31) need to hit a cam (M32) that will be attached to one of
the rails, (typically the switches are on one side and the positioning system is on
the other)
o Run the sensor head cables into the cartop box and connect to the 3 sensor
plugs on the circuit board. Each cable is labelled either upper, lower or coded
(door zone)
o The sensor head needs to engage the coded strips and can be configured as
left handed or right handed
• If the light curtains are already installed, they can be connected to the cables that are
extending from the cartop
Considerations:
• If you have a non-standard COP, such as a handrail COP, a narrow COP or a short COP
please refer to the section “Options and how they will affect your install”
Materials Required:
• COP (E3)
• COP mounting hardware (shipped inside the COP phone Box) (E3-H)
Tools recommended:
Procedure:
• Install the four cage nuts (E3-H) into the slot in the brackets on each side of the cabs
COP hole. See diagram 38A
• Remove the three screws holding the COP cover in place (one is inside the phone door)
• Feed the cables from the COP through the opening and up to the roof
• Carefully lift and insert the COP (E3) into the opening
• Line up the holes in the side of the COP box with the cage nuts in the COP mounting
brackets and install the four bolts and washers’ (E3-H) hand tight. See diagram 38A
• Position the COP box at the correct depth, the edge of the box should be flush with the
cab wall.
Note: The cartop box is equipped with strain relief bars where the cables exit
the box. The screws can be loosened and the bars removed until the wiring is
in place and then reinstalled and snugged against the wiring to prevent strain
being placed on the connectors.
• Run the cables into the cartop box through the cable entry closest to the connector
they will plug into
• On the cartop, plug the three Cat5 COP cables into the appropriately labeled
connectors on the cartop MCU board
• On the cartop, connect the phone line to the appropriate connector on the cartop MCU
board
Considerations:
• Exceptions: Refer to “Options and how they will affect your install” if you have any of
the following options
• The sensor head can be switched from left hand to right hand if necessary. Refer to
diagram 39A.
• The sensor heads have a bracket attached, this is shipped typically in the center
position but if a splice plate is expected to be in the way, it will be shipped with the
bracket in a higher or lower position.
• The top floor sensor has a 3-inch ‘floor zone’ window centered 5 inches below the top.
The cab can be levelled anywhere within this window. Refer to diagram 39B.
• The other coded strips have a 6.5-inch ‘floor zone” window centered in the middle of
the strip.
• The top limit switch needs to activate when the cab is 1 to 3 inches above the top floor.
However, it is best to set it at 2 inches unless site conditions do not allow it.
• The bottom limit switch needs to activate when the cab is ½ to 1 inch below the bottom
floor.
Materials Required:
• One top floor coded strip (M22) (the shorter one with the T cut into it)
• Two rail clips (M3-C) with hardware (M3-CH) for each coded strip
Tools recommended:
• 18mm socket
Procedure:
Below are two methods for finding the correct position of the coded strips (M21, M22)
o Locate the latest version of the hoistway installation diagram that was shipped
with the electrical system in a large white envelope.
o Install the coded strips as per the measurements from the pit floor shown.
o Install the top and bottom limit switch cams (M32) at the heights from the pit
floor shown.
o Adjust the sensor head (so that the light beams will pass over the middle of the
slots (not the rounded ends of the slots).
o Using the levelling speed move the cab slowly up and down the shaft and adjust
strips (M21, M22) as required.
o Reposition the limit switch assembly (M31) on the roof of the cab so that the
cams (M32) will activate them.
▪ With the cab level at the bottom floor, the bottom cam (M32) should
almost touch the bottom limit switch.
▪ Measure down 5 inches from the level of the cab roof on the rail and
mark it BLC
▪ You will likely need to move the cab and enter the pit with a ladder
▪ With the cab at floor level measure and mark CS on the rail 2 ½ inches
above the cab ceiling. Mount the coded strip so that the middle of the
strip is at this mark.
▪ Move the cab so that the roof of the cab is level with the finished floor
height of the top landing
▪ Measure up from the roof of the cab the following distance (cab height
+1.5 inches) and mark this height on the rail.
Note: Cab height= distance from the finished floor of the cab to
the top surface of the cab ceiling and typically is 84 or 96 inches.
▪ Move the cab if needed
▪ Mount the coded strip (M22) so the middle is at the mark you made
previously
▪ Measure from the cab ceiling up the cab height plus 12 inches and make
another mark on the rail
▪ Mount the top limit (M32) switch cam so the rail clips (M3-C) are at this
mark
Considerations:
• Exceptions: Refer to the “Options” section of the table of contents if you have any of
the following options:
o Mini-sling
• The travel cable (E5) ends are pluggable and marked for “Main” (the end that connects
to the main controller circuit board) and “Cartop” (the end that connects to the cartop
MCU board)
• This procedure explains how to hang the travel cable (E5) between the cylinder (H1) and
the right rail. If you have enough room between a full cab wall and the shaft wall it is
possible to run the cable there. That procedure is covered under mini sling in the
options section.
Materials Required:
• Appropriate fasteners to attach the travel cable clamp to rail wall (4 to 6) (not included)
• 1 inch long #8 wood screws (to attach the clamp to the cartop) (not included)
Tools recommended:
Procedure:
• Screw one of the travel cable clips (E5-B) to the cartop near the ceiling edge nearest the
rail wall between the right rail and the cylinder.
• Feed the main controller end (marked) down the rail side of the shaft keeping 10 feet on
the cartop
• Use the travel cable clip to hold the weight of the cable
• Gain access to the point in the shaft where the travel cable will leave the hoistway
• Run the travel cable through the wall and to the controller being sure to leave enough
cable to connect it later
• Strap the cable in place between the controller and the shaft
• The best height for the travel cable to hang from is around the height of the sheave
when you pre-stroked the cylinder
• Measure from the top of the cylinder’s outer casing 6 inches plus the pre-stroke
distance refer to the final elevation drawing
• Run the travel cable up the corner of the shaft between a rail and the adjoining wall (left
or right corner depending on where the controller is) to the height of the travel cable clip
• Fold the cable into a 90-degree bend to make the turn and cross under the rail to just
above the travel cable clip. Refer to diagram 40A for an example
• Fold the cable to make a 90-degree bend down and through the travel cable clip
• From the cartop, adjust the amount of cable that dangles between the cab and the wall
until the cable almost touches the pit floor. If the cable loop is too short or too long it
can get snagged on the safeties
• Fold the remaining cable on the roof of the cab and strap in place
• Power down the elevator and run the travel cable into the main controller and the
cartop MCU box through the appropriate cable entries and install the bars to clamp
them in place
• Connect the travel cable at both ends to the circuit boards as marked
• Turn installation mode switch on the main controller off. Refer to diagram 41A.
• Use the key switch inside the main controller to turn service mode on. Refer to diagram
41A
• The 120 and 220 disconnects beside the main controller must be on
• The MCU switch on the main controller board should be off. Refer to diagram 41A.
• LED L8 “pit stop closed” (located on the main controller board) should be on. If not,
refer to the BES3 service manual section E
• LED L3 “55 cartop E-stop” and L4 “50 COP E-stop closed” located on the main
controller board should be on. If not, refer to the BES3 service manual section E
• Attempt to move the cab up and down from the cartop controls by pressing enable and
either up or down.
• If the controls don’t work, refer to the BES3 service manual section E
Considerations:
• The locks (E10) are shipped either left or right handed depending on the order from your
sales department. If the swing of the doors has changed you may need to order a new
lock.
• The locks (E10) come with a 12-foot Cat5 cable already connected to the lock. This
cable can be replaced with a longer or shorter one if necessary.
• Exceptions: Refer to “Options and how they will affect your install” if you have the
following option
• The locks (E10) and calls (E6) may have been installed earlier if the doors were ready. If
they were not ready the locks may have been temporally installed near the door
opening or the cables may have been left bundled near the opening without the devices
connected
• The call stations (E6) are typically located on the door handle side of the landing door
36 inches from the floor to the center of the button and within a foot of the edge of the
door frame. Customer preferences, building layout and other factors may necessitate
putting the call station somewhere other than the typical location.
Materials Required:
Tools recommended:
• Power drill
• Screwdriver
Procedure:
• From inside the shaft with the door closed, hold the lock in place so the bottom is 77
inches above the floor and mark the location. Refer to diagram 42A
• Just above the cable gland, Drill a 1/2” hole through the door frame and into the
hoistway
• Feed the black lock cable through to the inside of the hoistway
• Screw the lock to the door frame and screw cover back on
• Use #8 full thread wood screws at least ¾ inch long to mount the lock to the door jam
o Bring a screwdriver and go inside the cab, closing the door fully
o Insert the head of the screwdriver into the thin rectangle on the lock visible from
the inside. Push upwards and the door will unlock. The beak will have adhered
to the wood door
1. Not recommended
Note: The objective is to have a solid connection between the lock and the
door so there is no way for the door to be opened if the lock is locked.
Note: Our specification requires a solid core door for safety reasons. A
hollow core door may not adequately protect the elevator opening.
• Drill a 3/8” hole for emergency unlocking in the swing door, shown in figure 42AA. Align
hole with lock manual override as shown in figure 42AA.
• We have included 3/8” steel plug which is in the white envelope. We suggest you wait
until the end of the project to install these as they tend to go missing (painters).
• Connect the black lock wire to the call station as shown in figure 42AA. attach any
excess wire to the wall. Repeat on each floor.
Note: Be sure not to crush the Cat5 cable when attaching it to the wall.
Considerations:
• A break out box is used to convert from the Cat5 cable to wires that can be terminated
on the landing door contact terminals.
• The breakout box comes with a 12-foot Cat5 cable that will connect to the call station
and a 6-foot 2 wire cable that will connect to the landing door contact.
• The call stations (E6) are typically located on the door handle side of the landing door
36 inches from the floor to the center of the button and within a foot of the edge of the
door frame, but customer preferences, and building layout and other factors may
necessitate putting the call station somewhere other than the typical location.
Materials Required:
Tools recommended:
• Screwdriver
Procedure:
• Mount the black box within 6 feet of each landing door contact and within 12 feet of the
call station
• Connect the 2 wires (black and white) from the black box to the door contact. It does
not matter which wire goes on which screw as long as each wire is terminated on its
own terminal
• Route the cable down to the call stations location and attach it to the wall
• Connect the black lock cable to the call station board (socket labeled “Black”)
Considerations:
• This procedure is for Woodfold gates (C9) with offset pins. If you have another type of
manual gate, please refer to the Options section and/or the manufacturer’s installation
instructions
Materials Required:
• #8 wood screws (4) (included in gate hardware package inside the Woodfold door box)
Tools recommended:
• #2 Philips Screwdriver
• ¼-20 tap
• 3/8 wrench
Procedure:
• Measure the width of the door opening at the ceiling, cut the aluminum top track to
length using a band saw or another appropriate tool.
• Measure 1.5 inches in from the front edge of the ceiling in two places and mark a line in
pencil. This will be the centerline of the top track, refer to diagram 43A.
• Slide the Woodfold door into the upper track and lift the door onto the bottom track
which is already installed in the cab.
• Guide the top of the door and track into the cab and align the screw holes in the track
with the pencil line.
• Install the vertical door strike to the closing side by lining the strike up with the top and
bottom track.
• At the closing side, ensure the pocket side of the gate runs plumb from the top to the
bottom and attach to the wall using the supplied screws.
• Install the supplied metal plate to the vertical door strike where the magnet from the
door meets the strike.
o If the light curtains were not installed previously, now is a good time to install
them
o Loosen the bolts in the metal tubing on each side of the opening from below and
above, one is one foot up from the floor and the other is one foot down from the
ceiling
• Mounting the gate switch (E14) (and gate switch cam (E14A))
o Hold the gate switch arm (E14A) onto the leading edge of the gate between the
grooves
o Mark (with pencil) the edge of the ceiling on either side of the cam
o The gate switch is built for gates that close on the right (as you are standing
looking into the cab). If your cab door closes on the left you will need to remove
the two screws in the top of the bracket, turn the switch 180 degrees and
remount the gate switch to the bracket
o Mount the gate switch (E14) to the ceiling so that the raised area is centered on
the two marks we made earlier on the ceiling’s edge. Screw the bracket in place
o Hold the gate switch cam in place and slide it up until it pushes the gate switch
almost all the way up. Mark the gates leading edge through the mounting holes
in the gate switch cam.
o Drill 3/16th inch holes in the middle of each location you marked
o Mount the gate switch cam, adjust and test until it closes the switch (listen for
the click) when the door is ½ to 1 inch from closing
Considerations:
• This procedure is for Woodfold gates. If you have another type of manual gate, please
refer to the options section and/or the manufacturer’s installation instructions.
• For cabs with a bulkhead (gate is shorter than the cab), the operator sits in front of the
bulkhead.
Materials Required:
• Porta arm for the gate with the bag of hardware attached (comes inside the operator).
Tools recommended:
• #3 philips
• #2 philips
Procedure:
o Place the operator onto the ceiling so that the end of the outer metal box with
the gate switch is lined up with the joint between the wall and the metal tubing
on the closing side of the door opening. Refer to diagram 44A and B.
o Adjust the operator so the front edge of the operator is flush with the front edge
of the ceiling.
o Use the included wood screws and washers to mount the operator to the
ceiling.
o Measure the width of the gate opening, cut the aluminum top track to length
using a band saw or another appropriate tool.
o Measure 1 inch in from the front edge of the ceiling in two places and mark a
line in pencil using a straight edge. This will be the centerline of the top track.
o Slide the door into the upper track and lift the door onto the bottom track, which
is already installed in the cab.
o Guide the top of the door and the track into the cab and align the screw holes in
the track with the pencil line.
o Install the vertical door strike on the closing side by lining the strike up with the
top and bottom track.
o At the closing side ensure the pocket side of the gate runs plumb from the top
to the bottom and attach to the wall using the supplied screws.
o Install the supplied metal plate to the vertical door strike where the magnet from
the door meets the strike.
o If the light curtains were not installed previously now is a good time to install
them.
o Loosen the bolts in the metal tubing on each side of the opening from below and
above. One is one foot up from the floor and the other is one foot down from the
ceiling.
o Hook the brackets that are on the light curtains onto the bolts and tighten with a
wrench from below and above the elevator.
• Mount the Porta operator cam that activates the gate switch. See diagram 44C
o The gate arm may come with its magnet attached left hand or right hand or
loose in the hardware bag. You may need to relocate the magnet or mount it.
o Relocate the magnet to change the handing by removing the locknut that keeps
the magnet on its screw and moving it to the other screw beside it and
reinstalling the nut. Refer to diagram 44C.
o Install the magnet by first installing the two screws with nuts and lock washers
and then installing the two magnets with a washer in between and the nut to
hold them in place.
o Place the arm in the center of the leading edge of the gate.
o Slide it up until the roller pushes up the gate switch almost all the way (1/4-inch
shy).
o Mark through the slots in the arm onto the gate edge.
o Drill through the gate edge in the center of the marks with a 5/16-inch drill bit.
o Mount the gate arm with the nuts on the inside of the cab.
o Test the gate switch by opening and closing the door. Adjust the gate switch via
the screws in slots above the switch such that the switch will open (click) when
the gate is open ½ to one inch.
Note: Some gates are stiff when new, this may cause the bottom of the
gate to lag the top of the gate when it is closing You can help this by
loosening the bolts holding the arm in place and angling the arm slightly
towards the closing side.
• Setup and test the gate operator
- The carriage should activate the close limit just before the carriage hits
the end of its travel and just before the gate is fully closed. Adjust the
limit as necessary.
- Adjust the open limit so that it is activated just before the gate is fully
open.
o Use the manual switch inside the operator to open and close the gate. Observe
the operation and adjust the switches and speeds until you are happy with the
operation of the gate.
Considerations:
• The height of the cab (C0) in relation to the height of the door panels determines how
the operator (E9) mounts to the roof (C5) of the elevator car. There are several different
brackets we can send with the operator and different hardware to mount them. The
basic types are L, T and drop down.
• Heritage operators will have had the skates removed as it does not need to couple with
landing doors.
• There are 3 variables that determine how the operator is mounted to the cab:
• Chart 45I details the brackets used based on the above variables and diagrams 45A
thru 45H show each installation in detail.
• The objective of this procedure is for the bottom edge of the operator to end up 1.5
inches above the bottom finished edge of the jog piece (refer to diagrams)
Materials Required:
Tools recommended:
• ½ inch socket
Procedure:
• Lay the operator (E9) face down and install the brackets (E9-A) on the back of the
operator as per the diagram that applies to your situation
o There are several holes on each end of the operator that you can use to attach
the brackets, which ones you use depends on your cab consider the following
before choosing which ones to use.
• Check for anything that might be in the way (cab light, sensor arm, limit
switch bracket)
• Based on the information obtained above, decide which holes in the back
of the operator to use to attach the brackets
o For cabs that do not have bulkheads and cabs with 4 inch bulkheads your
brackets use cage nuts that are in slots. You will then need to adjust the position
of the bracket as below.
o Cabs with 7, 11, or 16-inch bulkheads use brackets with fixed threaded bolt
holes so no adjustment is necessary. Refer to diagram 45E, 45F, 45G, 45H
o For cabs with no bulkhead, align the operator so that the closing side of the
operators’ black frame lines up with the finished closing side of the cab gate
opening. Refer to diagram 45J
o For cabs with a bulkhead, the operator should be tight to the wall on the closing
side
o The back of the operator’s case should be 1¼ inches forward of the edge of the
ceiling. Refer to diagram 45J
• Install the cab sill
o Locate the 3-inch-long 3/8th carriage bolts and slide them into the slots on the
bottom of the sill
• For two panel operators, install three bolts in the large slot.
• For three panel operators, install one bolt in each slot (this prevents the
sections from sliding)
Note: The transition piece is optional, but if you wish to use it, it
should be installed onto the sill plate before placing the sill onto the
floor
o Place the sill onto the edge of the cab and guide one bolt into each slot
o Using the 3/8th washers and 3/8th nuts tighten the sill into place from below
o Install one cage nut into the center of each slot into the operator’s door hanger
plates
o Hang the door panel furthest from the landing (closest to the cab) first
• Install using the Allen key bolt, lock washer and off-set cam washer from
the hardware kit included with the door operator. Center the panel relative
to the hanger plate. Refer to diagram 45K
• Pull the bottom of the panel forward and insert two of the gibs into
the bottom of the panel, one on each side.
• Swing the panel back over the sill and drop the gibs into their slot
• Adjust the doors using the tool included on the eccentric washers so there
is a ¼ inch gap between the bottom of the door panel and the sill. Check
that the panel is still parallel to the cab wall.
• Check the door panel is parallel to the wall of the cab and 1/8th inch short
of touching the jog piece on the end. Adjust the door panel left and right if
necessary
• The door panel should clear the edge of the “door hide” (jog piece) by 1/8th
of an inch. If it is more than that, use one of the methods below to resolve
the problem.
• For cabs with no bulkhead, move the operator slightly to provide the
clearance
• For cabs with bulkheads, you will need to use the included shims
between the plate and the door panel to make the necessary
adjustment
• Install using the Allen key bolt, lock washer and off-set cam washer from
the hardware kit included with the door operator. Center the panel relative
to the hanger plate. Refer to diagram 45K
• Pull the bottom of the panel forward and insert two of the gibs into
the bottom of the panel, one on each side.
• Swing the panel back over the sill and drop the gibs into their slot
• Check that the door panel is parallel to the first panel, and adjust if
necessary.
• Adjust the doors using the included tool on the eccentric washers so there
is a ¼ inch gap between the bottom of the door panel and the sill. Check
that the panel is still parallel to the cab wall
• When installing the last door panel, it should stop just short of the cab wall
when closed and have an even gap all the way down.
• The door panel should clear the previous door panel. If a shim was used
on the first panel, a shim will be needed on all other panels.
o Open and close the door panels by hand. Check for any rubbing and that all
panels line up when the doors are fully open.
o If you have two or three gate operators, each cable and plug will be labeled
with the stops that that gate operator is programmed to open at.
Note: One light curtain mounts to the closing side cab wall via special
brackets. The other is best mounted to the back of the fast door panel.
Although you can mount it to the front edge of the fast door panel, we have
found that the curtains are less vulnerable to alignment issues if they are
further apart when the doors are closed.
Note: If you have two sets of light curtains be sure to keep the pairs
together (there are serial numbers on each). They are tuned for each other.
o Loosen the bolts in the metal tubing on the closing side of the opening from
below and above, one is one foot up from the floor and the other is one foot
down from the ceiling
o Hook the brackets that are on the one light curtain onto the bolts and tighten
with a wrench from below and above the elevator
o Hold the second light curtain on the back edge of the fast door panel at the
same height from the floor as the other curtain and mark the location of the
lowest and highest holes
o Mount the curtain using the nuts and bolts supplied with the curtains
• Connect the light curtain cables from the cartop MCU to the curtains. If you have 2 or 3
door operators be sure to connect the correct light curtains to the correct power units.
• Use stick on anchors and tie wraps to attach the light curtain cables to the cab edge
and the fast door panel and open and close the doors to ensure that the cables don’t
get caught.
HDWR RELOC
speed width height height bracket bracket BRACKET PACK box
A 2 speed 36 146365/6 78.75 84 X A
D 2 speed 36 146365/6 84 84 X B
E 3 speed 32 127531/2 84 84 X B
F 3 speed 36 127539/40 84 84 X B
J 2 speed 36 146365/6 84 96 B A X
K 3 speed 32 127531/2 84 96 B A X
L 3 speed 36 127539/40 84 96 B A X
M 2 speed 36 146365/6 88 96 C A X
N 3 speed 32 127531/2 88 96 C A X
O 3 speed 36 127539/40 88 96 C A X
P 2 speed 36 146365/6 96 96 X B
Q 3 speed 32 127531/2 96 96 X B
R 3 speed 36 127539/40 96 96 X B
Considerations:
The victory landings may come with one large sill support bracket or three small ones.
This procedure suggests locating the sill support bracket(s) and mounting them first, removing
the sill and then building the landing frame on saw horses and lifting it into place. Alternatively,
the landing frame could be built on the sill in the hoistway.
The transition pieces are optional. Some flooring material can be brought up to the sill without
it. We advise checking with the builder.
Materials Required:
Tools recommended:
• Hammer
• Wire cable crimpers (heavy duty)
• Adjustable wrench
• For wood walls
• 17mm wrench
o Drill
• Long level
o Pilot bit 1/8th inch
o Hammer drill
Procedure:
• Move the cab to that floor and mark (or confirm previous) centerline (midpoint of the
door opening)
• Slide the three m10 25mm carriage bolts into the slot in the bottom of the
sill
• Attach the three landing supports (or the one large sill support bracket
depending which was shipped) to the sill, one in the center and the other
two halfway between the center and the edge of the sill
o Hold the sill in place so the top of the sill is at the finished landing floor level
o Adjust left and right such that the stacking side ends of the two sills line up
o Mark the slot locations on the shaft wall beneath the doorway
o Mount the sill supports using appropriate hardware. The bolts should be in the
center of the slots in order to allow for adjustment
We recommend using saw horses as a work surface for assembling the landing frame
o Set the strike post and return post on the saw horses
Because the optional transition piece and the carriage bolts (that will mount the
sill to the sill support brackets) cannot be installed after the posts have been
attached to the sill. We need to slide them in place as we put the sill in place.
o Slide 3 carriage bolts into the slot in the bottom of the sill
o Slide the sill the rest of the way until it passes through the bottom of the strike
post
o Install (hand tight) the three sill support brackets using the preinstalled carriage
bolts, nuts and washers
o Drop the sill carriage bolts into the sill support brackets that were previously
mounted to the wall
• The distance between the edge of the cab sill and the edge of the landing
sill is 1 ¼ inches or up to local codes and standards
• The sill is still level with the finished landing floor height
o Tighten the three carriage bolts between the sill and the sill support brackets
o Place a long level on the strike post and adjust frame till the strike post is plumb
in and out and side to side
o Mark drill and lag the bracket above the strike post in to the wall
o Place a long level on the return post and adjust frame till the return post is
plumb in and out and side to side
o Mark drill and lag the bracket above the return post in to the wall
o Recheck the entire frame is level and true. If the cab is level the gap should be a
consistent 1 ¼ inches
Considerations:
The victory landings may come with one large sill support bracket or three small ones.
This procedure suggests locating the sill support bracket(s) and mounting them first, removing
the sill and then building the landing frame on saw horses and lifting it into place. Alternatively,
the landing frame could be built on the sill in the hoistway.
The transition pieces are optional. Some flooring material can be brought up to the sill without
it. We advise checking with the builder.
Materials Required:
Tools recommended:
• Hammer
• Long level
• Adjustable wrench
• 6mm allen key
• 17mm wrench
• Wire cable crimpers (heavy duty)
o Drill
o Hammer drill
Procedure:
o Attach the three sill support brackets to the sill support with the three carriage
bolts
• Attach the landing support bracket and sill support plate to the landing sill
o Hold the sill in place so the top of the sill is at the finished landing floor level
o Adjust left and right so the stacking side ends of the two sills line up
o Mark the slot locations on the shaft wall beneath the doorway
o Remove the sill and leave the sill support plate and brackets in place
We recommend using saw horses as a work surface for assembling the landing frame
o Set the strike post and return post on the saw horses
Because the transition piece and the carriage bolts (that will mount the sill to the
sill support brackets) cannot be installed after the posts have been attached to
the sill. We need to slide them in place as we put the sill in place.
o Slide three carriage bolts into the slot in the bottom of the sill
o Slide the sill the rest of the way until it passes through the bottom of the strike
post
o Lift the frame into place in hoistway on the sill support brackets
o Lag the sill support loosely to the wall through the slots in the plate.
• The distance between the edge of the cab sill and the edge of the landing
sill is 1 ¼ inches or up to local codes and standards
• The sill is still level with the finished landing floor height
o Tighten the 3 three carriage bolts between the sill and the sill support brackets.
o Place a long level on the strike post and adjust frame until the strike post is
plumb in and out and side to side.
o Mark, drill and lag the bracket above the strike post in to the wall
o Place a long level on the return post and adjust frame until the return post is
plumb in and out and side to side.
o Mark, drill and lag the bracket above the return post in to the wall
o Recheck the entire frame is level and true. If the cab is level, the gap should be a
consistent 1 ¼ inches
Materials Required:
5. 2 adjustable wrenches
7. Drill
2. Place sill on the cab floor and install a needle bearing washer and flat washer on
each door pivot. NOTE: Washers must be put on sill pivots. First is the
washer with the needle bearings, then the flat washer, and lastly the door.
4. Push the operator back until the front flanges are against the front edge of the
cab walls. Drill 3/16 inch holes in the center of the slots on the inside of the
operator. Install lag bolts with ½ inch socket, but do not tighten fully. NOTE:
Position the sill, washers, doors and operator on the cab before anything is
fastened.
6. Tighten four lag bolts fully to secure the operator to the cab.
7. Level the doors front to back and left to right to ensure the sill is positioned
correctly. Front to back levelling must be done to each door with level on the
back edge of the door when it is open. The left to right can be done on just one
door with the level on the door pivot. The door will be in its closed position, but
folded since the rollers have not been installed yet. Secure sill with three #10
wood screws.
8. Attach rollers to the doors with a 3mm Allen bit. Do not over-torque as these
screws strip easily. Use a roller, two screws, and the backing plate top and
bottom of each door. Have the roller bracket approximately ¼” for door edge to
start.
¼”
9. Feed connectors through the hole at the back of the operator and make
appropriate connections to the board, and the spade connectors (not shown).
11. If the door slaps the return wall when it opens, move the door position flag
slightly towards the open side. Adjust in ½ rotation increments.
12. If the doors stick during operation, move the rollers towards the edge of the
door in 1/16 inch increments.
Considerations:
• At this point in the installation, everything should be installed and connected. This
procedure will take you through each part of the system to do some final adjustments
and confirm everything is correct, start up the system in automatic, and set the floor
levels.
• Refer to the electrical drawing package (shipped with elevator) page 23 for a
description of MCU settings.
Materials Required:
• Cable ties (some included with the light curtains, but more may be required)
• Tie wrap anchors (some included with the light curtains, but more may be required)
Tools recommended:
• Hammer
• Side cutters
Procedure:
• Cartop
o Customizing MCU settings (refer to electrical detail package page 23 for details).
• The door open / door unlock time can be increased or decreased from the
standard 8 seconds, via the unlock door timer adjustment
• The length of time the cab lights stay on after the cab stops moving and
the door is closed can be increased or decreased from the standard five
minutes. Local codes and standards may apply.
• Options may have been requested at the time of the order and will have
been turned on via the dip switches. You may, however, want to turn on
some features now if they are required.
• The Flood feature moves cab off the lowest floor to the 2nd stop after
a timeout, refer to BES3 electrical detail package (included with the
shipment) page 23, pump package switch 6
o Confirm MCU fuse F1 is 1A and all connections on the board are properly made,
refer to page 10 to 16 of the electrical detail package.
• Cab lights
• Light curtain(s)
• Door operator(s)
• Complete the width setup procedure for each operator, refer to BES3
service manual section C.2
• The system should be in service mode and the MCU switch should be on
• Locate and press the enable and the door A test button on the MCU board
• The associated door operator should open and close when you let go of
the switches
• Make minor adjustments to the location of each panel and its height above
the track that you feel are required to ensure smooth operation
• Repeat with the 2nd and 3rd car gate operator if applicable
• Open each door and then block the associated light curtain. The door
should re-open / stay open.
o Tidy up the cables on the cartop using cable ties, strapping and clamps/staples,
remove debris and install covers on the boxes.
• Upper hoistway
o Check over the sheave assembly, making sure all the bolts are tight and the
ropes are riding in the grooves properly
o Confirm the location of the coded strips, sensor head, limit switches, and cam,
refer to final drawings.
o Move the elevator up and down using the cartop controls checking for any
issues with the ride quality and resolve. Refer to the service manual or section
52A of this manual.
o Check the upper rollers are adjusted properly as per service manual section N
o Tidy up the COP inside and out and check that the E-stop button is pulled out
o Confirm the slack rope switch is connected and not activated, and the cable will
not catch on the sling or safeties. Refer to drawing 54A for details.
o Check that all lower hoistway wiring, hydraulic and drain line are fastened
properly.
• Landings
o Check that all swing doors have the holes drilled in them for access. The
stainless hole plugs to cover the holes come in the large white envelope in the
electrical box. We don’t recommend installing them until turnover as they often
go missing.
o Check the locks are mounted properly and that everything is aligned correctly
o For Cambrian landing doors, adjust the door contacts so that they make contact
¼ inch before the door closes fully
• Power unit
o Check that all the connections have been made in the junction box and there is
pressure on the gauge.
o Tidy up the box and the cables leaving for the controller
o Install the isolation rubber donuts under the corners of the tank unless already
installed.
• Main controller
o Check that all the fuses are the correct type and amperage
o The “all safety and gate” LED should be on. if not, note the error code and
consult the BES3 service manual
o All the yellow LED’s on the main controller board should be off. If not, note the
error code and consult the BES3 service manual
• Up to floor level.
If the system does not restart or does not complete the restart, process refer to
BES3 service manual section R
o When it stops moving the top floor number should display on the controller’s
screen If an error code is shown, refer to the BES3 service manual for details
on the probable cause
o Call the elevator to each floor via the hall call stations and confirm the following:
• The elevator stops within 2 ½ inches of level at the top floor and within 3 ½
inches of level at all others. If not, note the distance high or low the cab is
out of level at those floors and then move the coded strips that distance.
• The locks and operators operate properly. If there are any issues, refer to
the appropriate section of the BES3 service manual.
• While the cab is moving press in the E-stop. The cab should stop and the
buzzer should sound.
• Inside the COP, press the two enable buttons and hold
Note: For “true through” cabs it doesn’t matter which call you used to
get to the floor.
Note: Restart the elevator, in order to make sure any changes made have not affected the
start-up process.
Considerations:
• Typically, handrails are mounted centered on one of the walls at 36 inches off the
finished floor, but the homeowner may want a different height or location.
Materials Required:
Tools recommended:
Procedure:
o Measure the distance between the mounting holes on the handrail. This will be
called measurement Y
o The distance from the wall to the first mounting hole will be (X-Y) divided by 2.,
This will be called measurement Z
o At the mounting height, measure from the left wall over measurement Z, and
mark the location of the left mounting hole.
o At the mounting height, measure from the right wall over measurement Z, and
mark the location of the right mounting hole.
o Confirm the locations marked line up with the handrail mounting points. This is
done by holding up the handrail to the wall
• Remove the standoffs from the handrail using a 1/8th inch allen key
• Follow the instructions inside the mounting hardware package to attach the standoffs to
the wall
Considerations:
• Windows, glass cabs, glass sliding doors etc. will require some extra attention when
doing a final cleaning. Refer to the Options section for details.
• Unfinished wood surfaces should not be cleaned. It’s best to leave this to the people
who will be finishing the cab.
Materials Required:
• A mild cleaner appropriate for painted and laminated surfaces (not included)
Tools recommended:
• Broom
• #2 Philips screwdriver
Procedure:
• Inside Cab
o Remove the plastic film from all stainless surfaces such as the COP, door panels
and possibly walls and trim
Note: It may be necessary to use a sharp knife blade or razor blade to cut the
film as close to any overlapping edges as possible. Tip: A sharpened piece of
copper will not scratch stainless and can be very useful in scoring the plastic
without scratching the stainless underneath.
o Remove any protective floor covering
o Vacuum the floor, gate sill and any hard to get at areas
o Wipe down the entire cab with clean dry cloths, including the ceiling
o If the finished flooring is installed, it’s best to consult with the general contractor on
if and how to clean the floor
o Remove the plastic covering the telephone and wipe down the phone and its
cabinet
o Install the cover on the COP and make sure it is parallel to the walls and flush
o Depending on the job site conditions, the finished floor may need to be covered.
Consult with the general contractor
• Power unit
o Check for any hydraulic fluid leaks since the last time you cleaned around the
valve and fittings as this may indicate there may be a small leak that needs to be
corrected
o Tidy the inside of the electrical junction box. Warning: On single phase
motors, the large capacitors can carry an electric charge even after the
power has been turned off.
o Wipe down the entire power unit using a mild cleaner if necessary. Be careful
not to contaminate the hydraulic oil in the tank.
• Main controller
o Tidy the inside of the main controller. A dry paintbrush can be used to dust the
inside if necessary.
o Clean the outside of the controller and the back of the door with mild cleaners
appropriate for the painted surfaces, stickers and the plastic window.
o The homeowner’s copies of the paperwork (white envelope) should be left with
the end user (typically they are left on top of the controller)
• The shaft
o Check over the pit, top of car and shaft and vacuum and wipe down if required.
• Landings
o Call stations
▪ Wipe down the call stations and make sure they are straight and flush
o Interlocks
▪ Wipe them down and confirm the holes were drilled for access. The
plugs for the access holes can be installed just before handover and the
customer walk through.
2. Run the elevator from the cartop controls and observe the following.
NOTE: Alternatively, the system could be in installation mode and you could use
the installers remote to move the elevator.
3. Press and hold the enable and up button.
4. The elevator should start to move approximately one second after you send the
command:
a. This can be adjusted. If the delay is longer or shorter refer to: section 52A–
adjustment 1.
ii. Confirm that the up solenoid is getting power and becomes magnetized.
iii. Refer to section 52A – adjustment 1 and 2 and reset them to the default
setting.
ii. Confirm the high-speed solenoid on the blain valve is getting power and
becomes magnetized.
6. If possible, have someone slide the high-speed switch to the OFF position while the
elevator is traveling at full speed. It is located on the main controller board.
NOTE: if the up-levelling speed is set below 1.2 inches per second the
elevator may not move up from a start in levelling speed. If set just above
this speed, temperature changes and a change to the weight of the car
could cause it to not move up in levelling speed from a stop.
8. This deceleration should take 1 to 2 seconds:
9. You can move the elevator up and down and control the speed via the high-speed
switch while adjusting the valve until you are happy with the settings.
2. Run the elevator from the cartop controls and observe the following.
NOTE: Alternatively, the system could be in installation mode and you could use
the installers remote to move the elevator.
3. Press and hold the enable and down buttons.
a. This can be adjusted, if the down acceleration is less or more: section 52A –
adjustment 6.
b. If the elevator is faster or slower than 7 to 9 inches per second when traveling at
full speeds:
i. Confirm that the down solenoid on the blain valve is getting power and
become magnetized.
ii. Refer to section D.3 – adjustment 6 and 7 and reset them to the default
setting.
ii. Confirm the high-speed solenoid on the blain valve is getting power and
becomes magnetized.
5. If possible, have someone slide the high-speed switch to the OFF position while you are
traveling at full speed. It is located on the main controller board.
7. The elevator should slow from full speed to levelling speed quickly and smoothly:
NOTE: If this setting is set for a longer slow down time the elevator may
overshoot the floor and level back up when traveling down to a floor, (coasting
past the floor).
8. You can move the elevator up and down and control the speed via the high-speed
switch while adjusting the valve until you are happy with the settings.
PRESET- Gently turn the adjustment in (clockwise) until stop and then turn it out
(counterclockwise) one turn.
OPERATION- Turning the adjustment in (clockwise) will cause the elevator to take
longer to reach full speed.
SETTING- Adjust this setting so that the car takes approximately 2 seconds to reach full
speed.
PRESET- Gently turn the adjustment in (clockwise) until stop and then turn it out
(counterclockwise) one turn.
OPERATION- Turning the adjustment in (clockwise) will increase the time it takes to
slow down to levelling speed from full speed.
SETTING- Adjust this setting so that the transition to levelling speed is quick but not
uncomfortable (1 to 2 seconds).
SETTING- Adjust this setting so that the levelling speed is approximately 8-10 feet per
minute (1 ½ to 2 inches per second). The best way to set this is to turn off the high-
speed switch located on the main controller board, the elevator will run at levelling
speed.
PRESET- Do not adjust, this adjustment is not used for residential systems.
OPERATION- N/A
SETTING- N/A
PRESET- Gently turn it in (clockwise) until stop and then turn it out (counterclockwise)
one turn.
OPERATION- Turning it in (clockwise) will cause the elevator to take longer to reach full
speed.
SETTING- Adjust this setting so that it takes the car 2 seconds to reach full speed.
SETTING- Adjust it so that the car travels up and down at the same speed.
PRESET- Gently turn it in (clockwise) until stop then turn it out (counterclockwise) one
turn.
SETTING-Adjust this setting so that speed changes are quick but smooth.
SETTING- Adjust this setting so that the levelling speed is approximately 10 feet per
minute (2 inches in per second).
Considerations:
• When the elevator is lowered into the pit, the slack rope switch and the low-pressure
switch will both activate. Typically, the slack rope switch will activate first. We will use
that fact during this test. If the low-pressure switch comes on first, you may need to
jumper it out in order to test the slack rope switch due to the order in which they are
wired.
Materials Required:
• None
Tools recommended:
• None
Procedure:
• Turn service mode on with the key switch inside the main controller
• Slowly release the pressure with the manual lowering red knob on the hydraulic power
unit
• The “all safeties and gate closed” LED should go out before the low-pressure switch
causes the “thermal and low pressure” and the “pit stop closed” LED to go out.
• If the slack rope switch does not activate, investigate and adjust the switch if
necessary.
o If the switch does not activate, it can be adjusted with a small screwdriver via a
screw on the end of the low-pressure switch
Considerations:
• The below procedure is for the OLS Line rupture valve. If the system utilizes a flow
control or a blain line rupture valve, please refer to the appropriate option section in this
manual.
• Down full speed should be set to 40 to 50 feet per minute. It is typically set to match full
speed up.
Materials Required:
• Wire seal
Tools recommended:
• 13mm socket
Procedure:
• Remove the cap from the adjuster on the top of the LRV. Refer to diagram 55A
• Loosen the brass locknut with the 13mm wrench. Refer to diagram 55A
• Turn the adjuster in (clockwise) one full turn using the 4mm allen key. Refer to diagram
55A
• Call the elevator down
• If the LRV did not trip, repeat the previous 2 steps until the LRV trips stopping down
movement
• Turn the LRV adjustment out (counterclockwise) 3 turns using the 4mm allen key
• Seal the adjuster by installing a wire seal through the small holes in the cap and around
the fittings
Considerations:
• The pressure relief valve is part of the blain hydraulic valve that limits the pressure that
can build in the system. The PRV should be set at 1 ¼ times the max working pressure.
Materials Required:
Tools recommended:
Procedure:
• Remove the cap that covers the adjustment, refer to diagram 55A
• Loosen the set screw that locks the adjustment, refer to diagram 55A
o Multiply the max working pressure by 1 ¼ to determine the pressure the PRV
should be set at
NOTE: The maximum pressure a power unit can be set it is marked on the tag
which is shipped with the unit. This pressure will be either 750psi or the
pressure produced when the motor is diagram 26 Amps, whichever is less.
• Test the current PRV pressure setting
o While the elevator is running up at full speed, close the ball valve next to the
blain valve
• If the maximum pressure was more pressure than the PRV should be set at, turn the
adjustment counterclockwise one full turn
• If the current PRV setting is determined to be less then the current setting:
o Turn the adjustment in slowly until the PRV setting is correct (max working
pressure X 1 ¼th)
NOTE: The maximum pressure a power unit can be set is marked on the tag
which is shipped with the unit. This pressure will be either 750psi or the
pressure produced when the motor is diagram 26 Amps, whichever is less.
Considerations:
• A working telephone line will need to be connected to the line filter on the side of the
main controller
Materials Required:
• None
Tools recommended:
Procedure:
Considerations:
• There are two ways the elevator can respond to a power failure. Refer to section 48 of
this manual for details and how to choose the two options
Materials Required:
• None
Tools recommended:
• None
Procedure:
• While it is running up turn off the breaker that feeds to elevators disconnect. DO NOT
turn the disconnect off
• The elevator will move down to the nearest floor below its current location and unlock
the door for 20 seconds
• If the E-lower function is selected via the MCU switch, 30 seconds after the power
failure the elevator will move down to the bottom floor and unlock/open the door for 20
seconds
Considerations:
• Some options such as keypads and key-switches may require extra steps to test them.
Refer to the relevant section for your options.
• The objective is to confirm and document that the elevator is 100% complete
Materials Required:
• None
Tools recommended:
• Access keys
Procedure:
o Call station:
□ Mounted correctly
□ Clean
□ Send car away, and confirm the car stops when the door is opened
□ Use the unlock tool to open the door from the landing
□ The fast door is a ¼ inch from the jam at the top and the bottom
□ Send the elevator to another floor and manually unlock the door with the
access key and confirm the elevator stops.
□ Check that the doors close on their own via the return spring
• Elevator Cab
□ COP
□ Cancels call
□ Activates buzzer
❖ Telephone: operable
□ Dials out
□ Clear communication
❖ DPI: display all numbers correctly (1 thru 7 and/or any special letters)
❖ Emergency lights
□ Clean
□ Free of scratches
□ Working
□ Clean
□ Flush to ceiling
□ No marks or blemishes
□ Clean
❖ Gate
□ Clean
□ Free of blemishes
□ Operates smoothly
□ Track clean
❖ Elmira
□ This can be tested by using opaque tape to block the light curtain and
then closing the gate and attempting to call the elevator away.
❖ Upper hoistway
□ Activate the topmost switch while going up in service mode and confirm
it stops the lift
❖ Cartop:
❖ Cartop E-stop
□ Activate while moving up in service mode and confirm the lift stops
• Lower hoistway:
❖ Pit E-stop
□ No leaks
• Machine room
□ Clean
□ Wires tidy
□ No leaks
❖ Main controller
□ Clean
□ Wires tidy
• Operation
□ Ride is quiet
□ The back of the landing door to the edge of the landing floor cannot
exceed 3 inches
□ The back of the landing door to the back of the gate cannot exceed 5
inches
Considerations:
• The objective is to make sure the customer understands how their new elevator
operates. What common error codes and sounds mean, maintenance procedures and
how to rescue someone from the elevator.
• Some extra features such as windows and keypads for example, may also require
explanation to the customer. Refer to the section for the options in question
Materials Required:
Tools recommended:
Procedure:
▪ Explain how the buttons will only work if they are lit up blue
▪ Note the “beep beep” sound when the swing door unlocks
o Code 343
▪ Elmira only - Explain that if they call the elevator. They need to open the
manual gate or a code343 will activate. Explain that this is a code-driven
safety feature to prevent children from being injured.
▪ Demonstrate code 343 by placing a call, opening the landing door, not
opening the gate, and closing the landing door
o Porta, Heritage and Cambrian: demonstrate how the light curtain causes the
door to stop and reopen.
o Demonstrate what happens if you block the curtain for a long time
o Demonstrate dumb-waitering
▪ Place a COP call then get out of cab and close door
▪ Explain how DPI works and what fault codes they may see
▪ Demonstrate phone
• Emergency operation
▪ Use the main breaker feeding the elevator disconnect to turn off the
220Vac to the system
▪ Explain how if in upwards travel during a power failure the elevator will
automatically go down to the floor below its current location.
o Explain the battery system and what works during a power failure
▪ Explain how the system must recharge the batteries once the power
comes back on
▪ Main disconnect
▪ Lighting disconnect
▪ Main controller
• Display
• Ball valve
o Access the cab from the landing when in the door zone
Note: Most elevator cabs have a mixture of materials. Use warm soap and
water where possible as many of the materials abut each other.
▪ Stainless surfaces
▪ Melamine surfaces
▪ Aluminum surfaces
▪ Plated surfaces
▪ Glass surfaces
▪ Flooring
▪ Light curtains
▪ Door sills
• Review the above training using the homeowner package included with your other
documents.
120Vac- This power comes in via the lighting disconnect and powers up the 12Vdc supply in
the main controller, which then powers the car lights. The actual voltage can vary from 110Vac
to 130Vac.
12Vdc- The power supplied by the 12Vdc lighting supply in the main controller. The actual
voltage can vary slightly.
24Vdc- The main system power. It is supplied by the 24Vdc power supply in the main
controller and the batteries. The actual voltage can range between 21Vdc and 29Vdc,
depending on the load on the system and the capacity of the batteries.
Anti-creep- A hydraulic elevator will normally slowly leak some hydraulic oil back into the
hydraulic power units tank. The oil is also affected by temperature, and when a weight is
placed in the elevator the oil can compress slightly. For these reasons, over time the elevator
can “creep” down slightly and no longer be level. The system detects this and re-levels the
elevator by running the power unit for a few seconds. This system is often called anti-creep or
auto-leveling.
Automatic- This term is used in this manual to describe the normal operation of the elevator,
as opposed to service mode, install mode, power failure mode or shutdown mode.
Call security key-switch- a key operated switch that is usually mounted in the exterior bottom
right corner of the main controller. This key-switch “turns off” all the call stations, the elevator
can still be run from inside the elevator car, in order to complete any call that was in progress.
Call station- A button located outside the elevator usually near a landing door on each floor
level, it can include a digital display which shows the current floor level the elevator is at.
Cambrian- A Cambridge Elevating elevator model name, this style of elevator has an
automatic sliding gate inside the elevator car and at each landing.
Capacity- As used in this manual it refers to the amount of weight the elevator is authorized to
lift. This can be dependent on both the design and local code requirements.
Car- Sometimes referred to as Cab (short for cabinet), it refers to the actual compartment that
moves people (and pets) up and down.
Car Operating Panel- The control panel inside the elevator car with the call buttons,
emergency lights, digital floor display, emergency stop button, and emergency telephone.
Cartop MCU board- The circuit board mounted on the roof of the elevator car inside the
cartop box. This circuit board contains the micro-processor that controls the automatic
operation of the elevator.
Cat5e cables- Also known as “network cables”, these cables connect the call stations, locks
to the main controller and the COP to the cartop MCU board. Cat6 cables can also be used
(but they generally cost more).
Charging system- The charging system consist of a 24Vdc power supply, a diode and a
resistor.
Coded strip- The custom positioning system used by Cambridge Elevating consists of a U
shaped, bent metal strip with slots on one side mounted on the rail and a set of three optical
sensors mounted on the car-top.
Connections- As used in this manual, this refers to the wire, plugs on the wires, and
connectors on the circuit board, that together connect the devices to the circuit boards.
Contactor overload- A device attached to the output side of a contactor that activates a
contact (switch) when the current going through it to the motor is over the current setting on
the device.
COP- Car operating panel. The control panel inside the elevator car with the call buttons,
emergency lights, digital position indicator, emergency stop button, and emergency telephone.
Diagnostic display unit- A tool that allows a technician to access more information from the
computer via a handheld display. This includes access to a historical log, the current battery
voltage, the capacity of the batteries, the speed of the elevator and other information.
Digital Position Indicator- A display that can be inside the elevator car and can be at each
landing. These displays show the current location of the elevator. Typically abbreviated as DPI.
DIP switch- “Dual Inline Package” refers to the groups (packages) of small switches on the
cartop MCU board that are used to configure the elevator and activate options.
Door contact- A “normally closed” switch that “opens” when the elevator landing door is
open.
Door operator- Also called a “Gate operator”, the terms refer to a motorized device that opens
and closes the elevator car gate.
Door zone- An area near floor level where a landing door is able to open. This term is used in
this manual to describe the sensor that is part of the positioning system that detects the solid
side of the coded strip.
DPI- Digital Position Indicator. A display that can be inside the elevator car and can be at each
landing. These displays show the current location of the elevator. Typically abbreviated as DPI.
Eccentric rollers- One of three types of rollers that guide the elevator along the rails. The
eccentric rollers are adjustable and you should be able to turn them by hand. These rollers are
currently blue.
Elmira- A Cambridge Elevating elevator model name, this style of elevator has manual
accordion style gate inside the elevator car and swing type doors at each landing.
Emergency light- LED lights inside the COP that turn on during a power failure and when the
system is in service mode.
E-stop- Emergency stop. A switch that stops the elevator when it is pressed. BES3 has E-stop
buttons located under the elevator car on the roof of the elevator car and inside the elevator
car.
Heritage- A Cambridge Elevating elevator model name, this style of elevator has automatic
gate inside the elevator car and swing type doors at each landing.
High speed switch- A switch inside the main controller on the main controller board that turns
the high speed valves on the hydraulic.
Homeowner- The person who is able to authorize you to work on a particular elevator.
Generally this term is used to refer to the person who owns and is responsible for maintaining
the elevator, but it could be a renter or delegate.
HPU- Hydraulic power unit. Sometimes referred to as “the pump” or “power unit”, it refers to
the assembly consisting of a tank, electric motor, hydraulic valve assembly, and hydraulic oil
pump.
Hydraulic Power Unit- HPU. Sometimes referred to as “the pump” or “power unit”, it refers to
the assembly consisting of a tank, electric motor, hydraulic valve assembly, and hydraulic oil
pump.
Installation mode- controlled by a slide switch located on the main controller board, it is a
mode of operation in which all the safeties circuits are bypassed in order to allow a technician
to move the elevator up and down the shaft during construction with a remote pendant control
that is connected directly to the main controller.
Interlock- A device that prevents the landing door from opening when the elevator car is not at
the floor. For BES3 systems this can be a mechanical device that is part of the victory landing
door system, or an electrical mechanical locking device.
Landing door- A door at a floor that covers the opening into the elevator car.
LED- Light emitting diode. In this document it refers to the small green and yellow lights on the
circuit boards that are used to indicate which parts of the system have voltage and functions
that are active.
Left hand- Describing left and right hand swing doors, accordion style gates and sliding gates
and landings can be problematic if we are not all using the terms in the same way. A left hand
swing door is one that when you are standing on the landing facing the door the door knob is
on the left. A lock for this door would be a left hand lock and the part number has an “L” in it.
Victory sliding (2 and 3 panel) car and landing doors, when standing at the landing they close
on the left side. The landing frames are described the same way. Woodfold accordion style
gates are different then other doors and gates. The left hand accordion gate when seen from
the landing stacks on the left side of the car, and closes on the right side.
Leveling speed- All our elevators have two speeds. Leveling speed describes the slower of the
two speeds and is generally set to 8 to 10 feet per second (1.5 to 2 inches per second).
Light curtain- All our elevators are equipped with light curtains (sometimes called light
screens) across the car openings. For openings that have automatic gates the light curtains
keep an open door from closing when an object or person is in the opening. For manual car
gates the light curtain prevents the elevator from moving when someone or something is in the
opening. A set of light curtains consist of a power unit, two cables, a transmitter and a receiver.
Light curtain power unit- is a module located inside the cartop box that supplies power to
and receives signals from the light curtains. It has a relay inside that changes state (opens and
closes the contact) when the light curtains’ beams are blocked or the light curtains are
disconnected.
Line Rupture Valve- LRV. A black box which is attached directly to the side of the hydraulic
cylinder. This device closes off the flow of hydraulic oil coming from the hydraulic cylinder is
the flow is faster than the setting of the device.
Lock- Interlock. A device that prevents the landing door from opening when the elevator car is
not at the floor. For BES3 systems this can be a mechanical device that is part of the Victory
landing door system, or an electrical mechanical locking device.
LRV- Line rupture valve. A black box which is attached directly to the side of the hydraulic
cylinder. This device closes off the flow of hydraulic oil coming from the hydraulic cylinder is
the flow is faster than the setting of the device.
Main controller- The large black box, typically located near the HPU, that contains the
batteries, the main controller circuit board, and the 24Vdc and 12Vdc power supplies.
MCU- Describes the microcontroller chip that is mounted on the cartop MCU board.
MCU power switch- The slide switch located on the main controller board that turns off the
power to the MCU.
MCU program- The program that runs on the MCU chip and thus controls the elevators major
functions.
Microprocessor- Describes the microcontroller chip that is mounted on the cartop MCU
board.
Monitoring system- The system designed by Cambridge Elevating that transmits packets of
information from the MCU chip to our online web portal. Dealers are able to access this
information via any web enabled device.
Negative pressure switch- Low pressure switch. A device mounted onto the side of the Blain
Hydraulic valve that detects when the pressure drops to near zero inside the hydraulic system
and opens a contact that is monitored by the system.
Pit- The area within the elevator shaft that is below the lowest floor level.
Porta door operator- A 24Vdc powered gate operator that automatically opens and closes
accordion type gates.
Positioning system- a system that allows the microprocessor to know where it is in the
hoistway so that it knows when to slow down, stop, open the gate, and unlock the landing
door.
Power fail relays- Relays which are continually powered by a power source in order to detect
when the source turns off. Our BES3 system uses a 12vdc relay ion the main controller board
to monitor the cab lighting power and a 220Vac relay located in the top of the Main controller
box to monitor the 220Vac supply.
Preset- This term is used in the Hydraulic power unit section of the manual to describe the
default setting of the various adjustments on the Blain valve. These setting suggestions should
be used as a starting point if the valve is having major issues related to its settings.
Pressure Relief Valve- Located within the blain hydraulic valve, the PRV limits the pressure the
power unit will output. The pump will continue to run but the excess oil will be dumped back
into the tank.
PRV- Pressure Relief Valve Located within the blain hydraulic valve, the PRV limits the pressure
the power unit will output. The pump will continue to run but the excess oil will be dumped
back into the tank.
Pump- Hydraulic Power Unit- HPU. Sometimes referred to as “the pump” or “power unit”, it
refers to the assembly consisting of a tank, electric motor, hydraulic valve assembly, and
hydraulic oil pump.
Re-level- Also known as Anti-creep. A hydraulic elevator will normally slowly leak some
hydraulic oil back into the hydraulic power unit’s tank. The oil is also affected by temperature,
and when a weight is placed in the elevator the oil can compress slightly. For these reasons,
Remote Monitoring module- A small black box located on the cartop that communicates with
our online web portal via the cell phone network.
Remote Monitoring report- a page on the online web portal from which all the information
sent from the elevator can be reviewed.
Restart system- Some system codes require the microprocessor to be power down and back
up again. This can be accomplished by sliding the MCU switch (located on the main controller
board) to the left and then back to the right, or by turning the main disconnect off and on again.
Right hand- Describing left and right hand swing doors, accordion style gates and sliding
gates and landings can be problematic if we are not all using the terms in the same way. A right
hand swing door is one that when you are standing on the landing facing the door the door
knob is on the right. A lock for this door would be a right hand lock and the part number has an
“R” in it. Victory sliding (2 and 3 panel) car and landing doors, when standing at the landing
they close on the right side. The landing frames are described the same way. Woodfold
accordion style gates are different than other doors and gates. The right hand accordion gate
when seen from the landing stacks on the right side of the car, and closes on the left side.
Safety device- This term is used in this manual to describe the various devices that for safety
reasons will prevent the elevator from moving. These devices include the E-stop’s, low
pressure switch, slack rope switch, and others.
Sensor head- Part of the positioning system that detects the coded strips as they pass and
sends information to the MCU, which can then determine where the elevator is.
Service key-switch- A key operated switch located in the main controller that is used to put
the system in service mode. When in service mode the system can only be moved up and
down from the cartop controls.
Service mode- A key operated switch located in the main controller that is used to put the
system in service mode. When in service mode the system can only be moved up and down
from the cartop controls.
Setting floor levels- A procedure where the level at which the elevator car stops at any floor
can be adjusted up and down several inches without entering the hoistway.
Setting number of stops- A procedure where the number of stops (floors) the system is
looking for is set, (2 to 6).
Shutdown- A mode that is activated when there is a major issue with the elevator that may
affect safety. The elevator will not take calls when it is shutdown.
Side rollers- One of three types of rollers that guide the elevator along the rails. The side
rollers are adjustable and you should be able to turn them by hand. These rollers are currently
blue.
Slack rope switch- A switch that is mounted on the car frame (sling) near the brake system
(safeties) and is activated when the ropes are slack.
Standby voltage- The system voltage (batteries and charging system together) while the
elevator is not in use.
Stop(s)- floor(s).
System voltage- The 24Vdc that the BES3 system operates on.
Technician reset- Some system codes represent major safety issue that we don’t want reset
until a Elevator technician investigates the cause. See section K.
Thermal switch- A device located within the windings of the hydraulic power units motor,
which opens if the temperature gets too high.
Under load- A method of testing the systems voltage and the batteries capacity while the
elevator is running up and down the hoistway.
Valve- Can refer to the Blain hydraulic valve located on top of the HPU or to a part with in the
valve which controls the flow of oil.
Victory door operator- A 24Vdc powered gate operator that opens and closes the car gate.
My many thanks to all the technicians, engineers, co-op students, manufacturing personnel,
and all the others that assisted in the production, proofreading, drawings and tribal knowledge
that has helped make this manual possible.
Sean Moffitt.