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Ethiopian costume

Religious costume
Royal costume
Brave: warriors costume

Estifanos M.
Bahir Dar University
Ethiopian፡ costume

Religious costume

The Ethiopian orthodox church


&
Ethiopian Islamic costumes

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Ethiopian፡ costume

Religious costume

The Ethiopian orthodox church

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Ethiopian፡ costume
Religious costume

Religion is instrumental to everyday life in Ethiopia, as


it has been for centuries

Religious costumes are not the same as other social


costumes. it differs in the way how it made, color,
style and its deep symbolic values.

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Ethiopian፡ costume

The Ethiopian Orthodox Church has a multitude of functionaries


and the bishop, priest, deacon or nun is a familiar sight,
especially in the city, where there are large churches and
religious centers.

ጳጳሳት ፣ ቀዳሲያን ፣ መነኮሳት ፣ ቀሳውስትንና ዲያቆናት በቅዳሴ ጊዜ


የሚለብሱዋቸው አልባሳት የልዑካን አልባስ፤ልብሰ ተክህኖ ይባላል። በቅዳሴ ጊዜ
ተለብሶ የሚገባ ልብሰ ተክህኖ አይነት በፍትሀ-ነገስት ተወስኗል።
ከዋና ዋና አልባስትም ፤ ቀሚስ፣ ካባምላንቃ ፣ ካባ ፣ መጎናፀፊያ ፣ ቀፀላ ፣
ሞጣህት ፣ አክሊል ፣ ቆብ ፣ ጥንድ-ድርብ ፣ መብሩቅ እና ፈረጂያ መግለጽ
ይቻለል።

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Ethiopian፡ costume

Priests and deacons dress simply, in a long cotton gown that


is a variation on the kemis, a cloche-style hat, sometimes
draped with cloth, called a kob; and a cloak of heavy material
with a stiff stand-up collar, called a kaba. A fly-whisk, hand-
cross, or prayer stick (used for support during the long church
services) may be carried. On special occasions the netela
worn over the priest’s shoulders has a colorful stripe, and
priests of the higher ranks wear richly embroidered bands
and a kaba decorated with metallic thread.

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Ethiopian፡ costume

Monks/Nuns, who leave home when they are old to labor in


monasteries, baking bread or caring for the household needs
of the priests, wear a simple, full-cut kemis of the coarsest
material, without ornamentation. A white head-cloth is
wrapped about their cropped heads, and the older nuns carry
prayer sticks for support. Though it may not be visible, a cross
is always worn about the -neck.

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Ethiopian፡ costume

The Islamic religion had its origin in Arabia around 600 A.D. and can be
considered as equally old in Ethiopia. However, there is no formal dress
whereby one can differentiate the religious hierarchy from the ordinary
Muslims.

The official structure is as follows; the "Almejlus Al'aela Lishu'un


Al Islamia”, highest rank, equivalent to Archi bishop; the "Muftin",
equiva- lent to bishop by rank; the "Imam", prayer leader
equivalent to parish priest; the "Sheiks", religious teachers; and
the "Kadis”, Judges. Irrespective of their functions, they all wear
almost the same dress, i.e., long trousers, kemis, Koffia and turban
on the head. Some put on a large cloak (juba).

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Religious costumes; Ethiopian፡ costume
Orthodox Christians and Muslims
Religious costume

1. Priest of the Qemant, a Judaic religious sect akin to the


3 7 Felashas of Northern Ethiopia, he acts as the religious and
1 9 secular head of the community. 2. Crown-like headdress
of a young deacon bearing a heavy and ornate
processional cross of brass. 3. Priests of Lalibela with
4 prayer sticks, drums and sistra. 4. Muslim sheik 5.
Headdress of a deacon of the Orthodox Church. 6. Old
priest of the highlands carrying a flywhisk and prayer
6 11 book. 7. The Sheiks of Islam do not wear any special
or colours to denote rank. They often carry beads or a
special stick. 8. Yellow-robed priest from Gander. 9. An
ancient nun in Lalibela leans on the prayer stick which is
10
2 used as a crutch during the long religious ceremonies. The
nuns spend most of their lives serving in the houses of
the priests. They wear simple coarse clothes and are
usually old. 10. Dignitary of the Orthodox Church. 1 1. A
5 Priest takes part in the Timikat {Epiphany) ceremony in
8
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Ethiopian፡ costume

Royal ፡ costume

Emperor-Kings and Queens_ንጉሠ፣ ንጉሠ ነገሥት -ንግሥት ዘ


ኢትዮጵያ
Prince, Princess; ልዑላን
Aristocrats; መሳፍንት መኳንንት

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Ethiopian፡ costume

Royal ፡ costume

Ethiopia; Headed by an Ethiopian emperor, or Negus in the


Ethiopian language, this region was home to some of the
most powerful states in the world, all forming a roughly
continuous Ethiopian Empire that spanned generations.
Ethiopia has played a major role in human history, and the
emperors of this region helped make that possible.

In the past Ethiopian weavers, potters, tanners, and other


artisans have gathered in communities under the protection
of Royal or ecclesiastical rule, where they were assured of a
ready market for their wares at church or court.
Negus Sahle Selassie – King of Shewa
Wearing a head ornament called “AKUDAMA(አቁደማድሪ)”

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Queen of Sheba costume(Idealized)

• Ethiopian style gown


• Egyptian necklace
All the Idealized paintings shows • Near Eastern veil
queen of Sheba costumes with • long waist sash (everybody was
different look –feature:- wearing those in the 10th century BCE)
• Crown and a fan!

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Ethiopian፡ costume
Queen of Sheba costume(Idealized)

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Ethiopian፡ costume
Axum civilization
Idealized expression of King Ezana

Half-length bust of Ousanas(ኡሳናስ) right, crowned, holding spear,


between two wheat-stalks. Disc and crescent at top.

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Ethiopian፡ costume
Emperor Tewodros of Ethiopia-Abyssinia

Emperor Tewodros has come to occupy a high regard


amongst many Ethiopians. Examples of his influence
are seen in plays, literature, folklore, songs and art
works.

Emperor Tewodros has come to symbolize Ethiopian


unity and identity.

Emperor Tewodros of Ethiopia-Abyssinia(1818-1868)


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Ethiopian፡ costume
The well-known royal outfits of Emperor Tewodros II
Wearing traditional white cotton tunic, Shamma - shawl and jodhpur style trouser Emperor Tewodros of Ethiopia-

Hormuzd Rassam
Being Received
By Tewodros Ii In
Abyssinia In
1868.

Abyssinian Emperor Tewodros giving a hearing to insurgents


people. Created by Janet-Lange and Dumont, published on
Le Tour du Monde, Paris, 1864
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Ethiopian፡ costume
Emperor Tewodros II
Crown, gold and gilded copper with glass beads, pigment and fabric, Emperor Tewodros of Ethiopia-
made in Ethiopia

The crown is constructed of an inner raised and domed


cylinder surrounded by three pierced tiers. The latter are
supported so that they stand away from the inner cylinder.

It is thought that originally fabric would have covered the


cylindrical portion of the inner body. The remains of the
fabric are now crumpled behind the tiers. The fabric
behind the top tier is green, while that behind the lower
tiers is of a darker green. All are very faded.

The domed portion of the crown is decorated with the four


apostles and other figures, embossed and chased.
Attached to it are eight filigree bead casings, with some
beads remaining. The decoration of the tiers appears to
have been stamped or chisel-cut from sheet metal.

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Ethiopian፡ costume
The well-known royal outfits of Emperor Tewodros II
Wearing traditional white cotton tunic, Shamma - shawl and jodhpur style trouser Emperor Tewodros of Ethiopia-Abyssinia

The British Army Find Tewodros's Body After His Suicide.


Tewodros II captures Henry Stern -1866
Tewodros Ii, Baptized Theodore Ii C. 1818 To 1868. Emperor Of
Ethiopia. From El Mundo En La Mano Published 1875.
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Ethiopian፡ costume
Emperor Tewodros of Ethiopia-
The British looted Ethiopian treasures include the emperor’s crowns,
shields, swords, ornamental saddles, goblets, gold crosses, canopies,
vestments, paintings, illustrated Bibles and manuscripts as well as
various other possessions of the Ethiopian royal family.
Emperor Tewodros II's wife, Empress Tiruwork, and his young son and
heir, Prince Alemayehu, were captured and order was given to take
them to England.
Prince Alemayehu made the journey alone but grew increasingly lonely
in imposed exile in England. The prince was very close to his father
who wanted and prepared him to be his successor as the next emperor
of Ethiopia one day.

Prince Alamayou, Son of King Tewodros of Abyssinia


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Ethiopian፡ costume
Emperor Tewodros of Ethiopia-Abyssinia

Photograph of a seven-year-old boy


(Prince Alámayou), seated, wearing a
Adults wearing Ethiopian noble or military costume, of white shirt and necklace with large pear-
patterned robes and head-gear. Child wearing robe, neck- shaped pendants. A shield has been
ornament.1968 positioned behind the child who looks off
to his left whilst holding up a doll on a toy
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Ethiopian፡ costume
Emperor Tewodros of Ethiopia-Abyssinia

1873 - Photograph of Prince


Alamayou of Abyssinia, facing the
viewer in head and shoulders
length.

The Prince wears a velvet coat


with matching waistcoat and
velvet breech's with stocking

Prince Alamayou, son of King Tewodros


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Ethiopian፡ costume
King Tewodros of Ethiopia-Abyssinia

Prince Alamayou,
Wearing Shamma Gabi(robe), necklace and western attire(coat, waistcoat, trouser and breeches )

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Empress Terunesh's,(Teruwork) ቀሚስ፤ royal dress Ethiopian፡ costume
found in Victorian and albert museum, London
“ King Tewodros of Ethiopia-Abyssinia

Ethiopian
Kemis (dress),
plain weave
cotton
embroidered
with silk,
Ethiopia
about 1860 ,

This dress is made from two layers of soft cotton extensively decorated with a series
of embroidered bands around the neck, appearing to hung down the front of the
chest like a large piece of jewellery. solid flat bands of chevrons separated three
chain-like patterns in which the ground fabric has been manipulated to form small
@estifanostes Myestifanos@gmail.com bumps. The cuffs are narrow and also embroidered.
Empress Terunesh's,(Teruwork) ቀሚስ፤ royal dress Ethiopian፡ costume
found in Victorian and albert museum, London
“ King Tewodros of Ethiopia-Abyssinia

This Ethiopian shamma(shawl)) belongs to queen Terunesh or Empress Tiruwork wube, White
cotton shamma(shawl) handwoven with a coloured border of yellow, orange and red.

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Ethiopian፡ costume
Empress Terunesh's,(Teruwork) የእቴጌ ጥሩነሽ ጌጣጌጦች
Found in Victorian and albert museum, London “ King Tewodros of Ethiopia-Abyssinia

Necklace formed of seven pairs of Necklace ten silver, crescent -shaped Necklace, silver, formed of fifty-
silver cylinders (amulets), seven ornaments with conical pendants two pendants strung closely
pairs of red-leather-covered tubes alternating with nine similar red leather together
and fifteen flat amber beads.35cm
ones and fourteen flat amber beads.

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Ethiopian፡ costume
Empress Terunesh's,(Teruwork) የእቴጌ ጥሩነሽ ጌጣጌጦች
Found in Victorian and albert museum, London “ King Tewodros of Ethiopia-Abyssinia

Necklace of two bands of 8 thin silver chains,


which appears to be intended for wear across
the shoulders. An ornamented silver box (with
side piece which pulls out allowing material to Necklace. Silver,
be inserted within the box) hangs from one triple small chain
end. Further silver chains and conical pendants attached to an
openwork clasp with
are suspended from it.
six conical pendants.
Midway along the main chains are two Length 52cm
rectangular ornaments surmounted by circular
bosses. At the other end of the necklace is an
ornament with a small circular box surmounted
on it. Its lid can be removed.

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Ethiopian፡ costume
Emperor Yohannes IV

He succeeded to the Ethiopian throne on 21 January


1872 four years after the death of Emperor Thewodros.

Like his predecessor Yohannes IV was a strong,


progressive ruler, but he had to spend most of his time
repelling military threats from Egypt, Italy, and the
Mahdists of the Sudan.

Emperor Yohannes of Ethiopia (1872-1889)


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Ethiopian፡ costume
Emperor Yohannes IV
Emperor Yohannes IV

Emperor Yohannes, his iconic hairstyle and wearing Shamma – Gabi(robe) Emperor Yohannes Wearing Coronation dress

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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Yohannes IV

Araya Selassie Yohannes , son of Emperor Ethiopian Nobleman RAS Mengesha Yohannes Ras Mengesha and his father, Emperor
Yohannes IV of Ethiopia wearing cape between 1900-06 wearing mane cape worn Yohannes IV wearing cape worn over
worn over a tunic. over a striped silk tunic (military outfit). shamma gabi –robe
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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Menelik II

Emperor Menelik II of Ethiopia was considered even


more effective than Tewodros II, as Ethiopia's great
modernizer and unifier.

After defeating Italians at Adwa, Emperor Menelik and


Ethiopia enjoyed a new era of prosperity and power.

He is today remembered as the father of modern


Ethiopia.

Emperor Menelik II of Ethiopia (1844-1913)


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Ethiopian፡ costume
Emperor Menelik II wearing coronation dressing and crowm.
The Crown is made by Dikran Ebeyan , an Armenian remarkable skilled jeweler. Emperor Menelik II

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Ethiopian፡ costume
Purveyors to H.M.I Menelik II
Emperor Menelik II

ጳውሎስ ኞኞ "አጤ ምኒልክ”


ብሎ ባሳተመው መጽሐፉ ሙሴ
ጊዎርጊስ በኋላ ባላንባራስ፤
ከግሪኮች ታዋቂ ነጋዴና
የመጀመሪያው ልብስ ሰፊ ፤
በ1875 ዓ.ም የአጤ ምኒልክ
ልብስ ሰፊ መሆናቸውን
ይገልጻል።

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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Menelik II

Emperor Menelik II_ wearing traditional Shamma outfits, and iconic Hat

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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Menelik II

Emperor Minilik II_ royal traditional shemma


outfits with cape and hat complement
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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Menelik II

Emperor Menelik II wearing royal military outfit-

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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Menelik II

Major Tommaso Salsa and Captain Annibale Anghera before the emperor of Emperor Menilik II_ royal funeral wearing military
Ethiopia Menelik II (1844-1913) in Menelik's camp with a peace proposal ceremonial outfits - cape – silk tunic and trouser
requesting a renewed acceptance of the Wuchale Treat outfits and military ceremonial dress
Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Menelik II

Emperor Menilik II and Empress Taytu - traditional Shamma outfits

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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Menelik II

Empress Taytu _ royal ceremonial dress and hair decorations

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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Menelik II

Empress Taytu _ royal ceremonial outfits ;ceremonial robes and capes


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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Menelik II

Menelik’s ornamented Hat and Umbrella


Ceremonial robe of Taytu Betul

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Ethiopian፡ costume

Lij Iyasu

Lij Iyasu Michael - Son of Ras (later King) Michael Ali


of Wollo and Woizero Shewaregga Menelik.
Grandson and designated heir of Emperor Menelik II.

Iyasu ruled for about three years but he was never


officially crowned and recognized as emperor so he
was known as Lij Iyasu. This was because of his
endless and special relationship with the Muslims in
አጤ ምንሊክ
the east of the country.

Lij Iyasu Michael (1895 -1935)


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Ethiopian፡ costume

Lij Iyasu

አጤ ምንሊክ

Lij Iyasu and his father king Michael Lij Iyasu and Ethiopian Lij Iyasu reading manuscripts
nobles

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Ethiopian፡ costume

Lij Iyasu

አጤ ምንሊክ

lij eyassu & abdullahi ali sadeq's family. #1916


Lij Iyasu Michael altered outfits

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Ethiopian፡ costume

Lij Iyasu

አጤ ምንሊክ

Lij Iyasu Michael wearing cape , robes Akudama dire, with full military
outfits
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Ethiopian፡ costume

Empress Zawditu

Zawditu or Zauditu; Ge'ez: ዘውዲቱ; (1876 –


1930) was Empress of Ethiopia from 1916 to
1930. The first female head of an internationally
recognized state in Africa in the 19th and 20th
centuries, and the first Empress regnant of the
Ethiopian Empire perhaps since the legendary
Makeda, the Queen of Sheba, her reign was
noted for the reforms of her Regent.

Empress Zawditu_ ዘውዲቱ

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Ethiopian፡ costume

Empress Zawditu

Empress Zawditu_ ዘውዲቱ wearing coronation dress and crown

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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Haile Selassle


Haile Selassie was one of the most famous leaders in
Ethiopian history. As the emperor, he was exiled during the
Italian occupation of Ethiopia due to the status he held.
Selassie would go onto return to Ethiopia and help in taking
back control of the country from Italy.

Ethiopia is often acknowledged as the only nation in


Africa never to have been colonized, and
Selassie emerged as a powerful international
figure as other African countries sought
independence in the 20th century.

Emperor Emperor Haile Selassle of Ethiopia (1892-1975)


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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Haile Selassle

Ras Makonnen Wolde Mikael (May 8, 1852 –


March 21, 1906) was the father of Emperor
Haile Selassie, and first cousin and close
confidante of Emperor Menelik II.

He served in Menelik's military campaigns to restore


the lost southern regions to the Ethiopian crown, and
was appointed Governor of Harrar after that city
state fell to Menelik's forces.

Ras Makonnen Wolde Mikael

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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Haile Selassle

Ras Mäkonnen
Wäldä-Mika'él
shemma outfits

Ras Mäkonnen and Ethiopian Mekuwanent


wearing imperial title outfits and missionaries
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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Haile Selassle

Ras Mäkonnen Wäldä-Mika'él, Wearing imperial title military outfit


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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Haile Selassle

…..the Emperor rose from his


throne wailing "Makonnen my
son Makonnen by brother, I
have lost my right arm!" as he
wept and kissed his cousin's
portrait repeatedly reducing his
entire court to sobs.

Emperor Minilik II attending Ras' 40th day commemoration held at the Imperial Palace in Addis Ababa
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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Haile Selassie

Emperor Haile Selassie


standing, dressed in ceremonial
robes and wearing a crown.
Addis Ababa, Ethiopia.

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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Haile Selassle

@estifanostes Myestifanos@gmail.com Emperor Haile Selassie and empress wearing ceremonial robes and capes
Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Haile Selassie wearing traditional shamma outfits Emperor Haile Selassle

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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Haile Selassle

Emperor Haile Selassie,London


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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Haile Selassle

London in 1924 His Imperial Majesty the Emperor, Crown


Prince AsfaWossen, in London
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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Haile Selassle

Emperor Haile Selassie with Jacqueline Kennedy


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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Haile Selassle

Emperor Haile Selassie


wearing ceremonial
modern military
uniform

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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Haile Selassle

Emperor Haile Selassie wearing ceremonial modern military uniform

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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Haile Selassle

Emperor Haile Selassie with new outfits


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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Haile Selassle

Empress Menen Asfaw

እቴጌ መነን wearing


ceremonial dress

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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Haile Selassle

With Emperor Haile Selassie, she would have six children, Princess Tenagnework, Prince
Asfaw Wossen, Princess Zenebework, Princess Tsehai, Prince Makonnen and Prince Sahle
Selassie. The Empress died in 1961 after a long illness.
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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Haile Selassle


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Ethiopian፡ costume

Emperor Haile Selassle

Empress Menen Asfaw wearing ceremonial robe


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Ethiopian፡ costume
Emperor Haile Selassle
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Empress Menen Asfaw wearing cloaks and shamma


Ethiopian፡ costume
Emperor Haile Selassle
Myestifanos@gmail.com

Prince, Princess; ልዑላን


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Crown Princess Medferiashwork Abebe


Prince makonnen Haile Selassie of Harar
Ethiopian፡ costume
Prince and Princess

Empress Menen and Prince makonnen Haile His Imperial Majesty the Emperor, Crown Prince
Selassie of Harar,in Jerusalem 1933 AsfaWossen, in London

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Ethiopian፡ costume
Prince and Princess

Crown Prince Asfaw Wossen of Ethiopia

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Ethiopian፡ costume
Prince and Princess

Prince Makonnen Haile Selassie, Duke of Harrar. Born in October 1923,


@estifanostes Myestifanos@gmail.com he was the second son, and second to youngest child of Emperor Haile
Ethiopian፡ costume
Prince and Princess

Princess Tsehai, Ethiopia Emperor, Haile Sellasie's daughter.

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Ethiopian፡ costume
Prince and Princess

Princess Tsehai, Ethiopia Emperor, Haile Sellasie's daughter.

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Prince and Princess

ልዕልት ሣራ ግዛው-Princess Sara Gizaw Duchess of Harrar is the widow of


Prince Makonnen,Duke of Harrar and second son of Emperor Haile
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Prince and Princess
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From left, H.I.H. Crown Princess


Medferiashwork Abebe, H.I.H. Princess
Tenagnework Haile Selassie, H.I.H. Princess
Crown Princess Medferiashwork Abebe
Yeshashework Yilma. Respectively daughter-
and Princess Yeshashework Yilma
in-law, daughter, and neice of Emperor
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The upper nobility itself is known


as the makwanent . The
immediate royal or imperial family
are known as negusawi
betasab ; the more distant
members of the family are known
as mesafint.

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Imperial and Traditional Ranks and Aristocrats _ መሳፍንት መ£ንንት
Titles Recognized by the Crown

Ethiopian titles are more numerous, complex and


subtle than in most European countries.

It should be noted that some of the titles are used as court


titles and also, separately, as military titles. In many cases,
some of the titles were bestowed as honorifics, in
recognition of the rank and closeness of the individual to
the Emperor, and in other cases they were bestowed with
the specific meaning of the rank. As well, there were and
are often separate and distinct meanings when the rank is
given in a military context as opposed to a court context.

Each imperial and traditional ranks/title has


specified costume representation and dressing code.

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Titles Recognized by the Crown Aristocrats _ መሳፍንት መ£ንንት

ንጉሠ ነገሥት_Emperor of Ethiopia


ንጉሥ_King
ንግሥተ ነገሥት _Empress (in her own right)
እቴጌ_Empress (consort)
አልጋ ወራሽ_Heir Apparent; Crown Prince
እንደራሴ _Viceroy
መስፍን_Now used mainly to signify a Duke in the modern sense
Imperial, Royal መርዕድ አዝማች_Title of Shoan heads-of-state until 1813, when Sahle Selassie took the title
and Noble of Negus. Literally a prince at the head of an advance military force.
Titles ልዑል_Prince of the Imperial House
ልዑል ራስ_Prince of the blood, but recently with connotations of governorship, or
military/regional leadership. Recently given to princes more distant from the Monarch.
ልዕልት_Princess of the Imperial House
ዋግ ሹም_Leader of the previous, Zagwé dynastic family, nominally seated second to the
Emperor, but without political power outside the Wag areas.
ባህረ ንጉስ _Antique and now disused title meaning “ruler of the North” or “Ruler of the
Maritime Province” [ie: Eritrea]. Basically intended to mean “Ruler of the Seas”.
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Imperial and Traditional Ranks and Ethiopian፡ costume
Titles Recognized by the Crown Aristocrats _ መሳፍንት መ£ንንት

ራስ_The highest noble rank -Head; in some senses a Field Marshal. Traditionally often equivalent
to the rank of Duke.
ቢትወደድ_Beloved [of the Emperor/Nation]. Principal advisor to the Emperor or a Negus. Also
bestowed on the commander of a fort in ancient times.
ደጃዝማች_Commander or General of the Gate-often translating as Governor-General. The one
who, in a war camp, resides near the door of the Emperor’s tent; or Marshal of a provincial
headquarters, equivalent of a Count.
ሊቀመ£ስ_ was the impersonator or double of the Emperor, who accompanied him in battle. Two
Titles Bestowed trusted and highly favored officials were given this title.
by the Crown ፊትአውራሪ_ Traditional title given to the Minister of Defence, commander of the vanguard of a
traditional Ethiopian armed force. Ranks behind a Dejazmatch.
ቀኝ አዝማች_ Leader of the Right Wing [of an Army]. In civil life, the title in Imperial times was
bestowed on governors of districts.
ግራ አዝማች_ Leader of the Left Wing [of an army]. In its civilian context, the title was given to
high-ranking government officials in times of peace; had local court (magistrate/judge) functions.
ብላታንጌታ_ “was a high court official that served as administrator of the Palaces.”
አፈንጉስ_ who acted as official spokesmen for the Emperor. As the Emperor never spoke in public,
these officials always spoke in public for him, speaking as if they were the Emperor. By 1942, this
@estifanostes title was granted only to Justices of the Imperial Supreme Court.
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Titles Recognized by the Crown Aristocrats _ መሳፍንት መ£ንንት

በጅሮንድ _ Treasurer
ፀሀፊ ትዛዝ_ Minister of the Pen. The Emperor’s spokesman, speechwriter,
historian, custodian of the Imperial seal; Chancellor of the Imperial orders and
decorations.
እንደራሴ_ A governor of a province, representing the Emperor/ Empress
ልጅ_ Male descendant of a Noble, generally of a Le’ul or Ras. Literally means
“boy”. When the figure is clearly a high noble, the title Abetu is also often used
Titles Bestowed instead of Lij.
by the Crown እመቤት_“Royal Lady” -Reserved for the unmarried granddaughters of the
monarch in the female line,they were generally granted the title of leult upon
marriage.
አበጋዝ_ governor, ruler of a district or region.
ባላምባራስ_ Commander of an Amba or fortress-these could also be commanders
of the guards, artillery or cavalry of a traditional Ethiopian armed force.
ነጋድራስ_ Head of the merchants-Chief of merchants, or trade commissioner.
ከንቲባ_“mayor” or “Lord Mayor” was a mayor of a large town or city
አጋፍሪ_Chief of Protocol-Protocol official.
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ራስ ሲባል በወርቅ ሰገጥ የተለጠፈ በጥንድ ወርቅ ጥብጣብ ፤የተከፈፈ


ቀሚስ ፤ሐር ድግ ዝናር ፤ባለወርቅ ሙጣ ጎራዴ፤በትከሻው ላይ መደረቢያ
ያለበት የወርቅ ላንቃ፤በራሱ ላይ አረንÕዴ ማሰሪያ አስሮ ራስ ወርቅ
ያደርጋል፡፡n

ማለፊያ ጠመንጃ፤ወርቅ ጣፋ ጋሻ ፤በቀሚሱ ዓይነት የተሰፋ በማግስቱ


የሚለበስ ክብ ወይም ባለ¡ስ ካባ፤ባለብርና ወርቅ ጥልፍ የወርቅ አልቦ፤
ባለብር ጉብጉብ ሐር ጥልፍ መረሻት የተጫነ በቅሎ፤ ባለወርቅ መጣብር
የተጫነ ፈረስ፤ጥንድ ጦር ፤ አረንÕዴ ጥላ ይሸለማል፡፡

Leul Ras Asrate Kassa

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ሴት ወይዘሮዎችም የወርቅና የሐሩ ጥልፍ በቀሚሱ ላይ የመለጠፈው


በባላቸው ማዕረግ ዐይነት ሆኖ በቀሚሱ ጨርቅ ዐይነት ግን የወንዱ
አብደላ ካኔ ሲሆን የሴቲቱ ነጭ ሐር ሆኖ ለከፍተኛና ዝቅተኞች
የሐሩ ጥራት ልዩነት ይኖረዋል፡፡

Princess Zuriashwork Gebre Igziabher (Leul Ras Asrate Kassa wife)

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ቢትወደድ ሲባል ልብሱ በሙሉ እንደራሶች ሆኖ የራስ ወርቅ ብቻ


አይሸለምም፤

ደጃዝማች ሲባል በብርና ወርቅ ሰገጥ ይጠለፍና መክፈፊያው ሁለት የወርቅ


ጥብጣብ ይሰፋበታል፤ሱሪ 1 ጣቃ ሻሽ ለድግ፤ ዝናር ጎራዴ፤ድርብ ካባ
ላንቃ፤ማለፊያ ጠመንጃ፤ጣፋ ጋሻ፤ በማግስቱ የሚለበስ በቀሚስ አይነት
የተለጠፈ አንድ ካባ፤ በቅሎ ከነስርዓቱ፤የሐር ጥልፍ መረሻት፤ ብርና ወርቅ
ቅልቅል የሆነ አልቦ ባለብር መጣብር ፈረስ 1 ጦር ነጭ ጥላ ይሰጣል።
አጤ ምንሊክ

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From right to left: Lij Iyasu, his father Ras Mickael and Ras Ras Makonnen
Hapte Ghiorgis.
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Envoys from Empress Zauditu in England.


Dejazmatch Nado (center), Kantiba Gabru
(right), and Ato Heruy (left). 1924.

Ethiopian Viceroy with their titled outfits


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Aristocrats with different style of capes

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Royal Ladies wearing


Shamma_ ceremonial
Gabi outfits

Aristocrats -Royal Ladies


High land Christian 1912
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Ethiopia Visitors in Europe _traditional capes 1898 Africa Ethiopia Abyssinian Visitors To
and shemma outfits with top hat Paris with traditional outfits –embroidered
complement cloaks

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Ethiopian Viceroy in Europe

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Braves costumes

Brave:
warriors costume

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Braves costumes

• No more colorful and imaginative costumes could be


conceived than those traditionally worn by the Ethiopian
warrior and the use of animal pelts as part of the military
uniform has long been a custom.

• By the middle of the nineteenth century, soldiers were


wearing specially cut trousers and shirts, with cartridge
belt, sword belt and shield of toughened animal hide.
Often the shirt was silk, and the shoulders might be
covered with a sheep, goat, or wild animal pelt. Status
was indicated by the amount of Gold decoration on
scabbard, sword, and saddle mountings.

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Ethiopian፡ costume
Braves costumes

• Prowess in battle, indicated elsewhere in the world by


medals, might be evinced in Ethiopia in a number of
ways. bracelets, earrings and neck chains often were
worn to show that the warrior had rescued a companion,
killed many men, or shown unusual bravery as a hunter.

• In the 1930’s an effort was made to popularize the use of


khaki cloth among soldiers, instead of the traditional
white shirt and trousers that made them an easy mark for
enemy rifles.

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Ethiopian Men’s military titles

Ethiopian Modern Western Equivalents


Military Titles
ራስ General (or, when the Emperor is in the field, Lt.-General)
ደጃዝማች Lt.-General
ፊትአውራሪ Major-General
ግራአዝማች Brigadier-General (staff) (literally means commander of the
left wing of an army)
ቀኝአዝማች Brig.-General (line) (lit., commander of the right wing)
መርድአዝማች Colonel (staff)
ባላንባራስ Lt.-Colonel
ሻለቃ Colonel (line) (literally “chief of a thousand”)
ሻንበል Major
መቶ አለቃ Captain
ሃምሳ አለቃ Lieutenant
ባሻ Commander of a rifle “corps” (may mean a company of squad-
sized unit). No direct equivalent.

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Ras Tafari ;lij Iyasu ;Dadjazmach Beru wearing


Emperor Haile Selassie wearing the new the previous military outfits
military outfit
The gold embroidered clothing is Worn only by the royalty and
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Braves costumes

Dejazmach Geneme and his followers

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Ethiopian General Fetawrari Gueta Veteran of The


First Italo-Ethiopian War . 1931 Ceremonial traditional military outfits
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Luel Ras kassa Hailue ceremonial Military Robe-velvet,


military outfit gold embroidered
Velvet gold embroidered cape and trouser
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Colorful and imaginative costumes


Traditional white shirt with kutta and trousers soldiers outfit.
traditionally worn by the Ethiopian warrior.
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Traditional military outfits


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@estifanostes Myestifanos@gmail.com Ethiopian Levies, Second Italo-Ethiopian War Embilta player


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The old traditional military outfits


Braves costumes
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Introduction of new military uniforms


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The New military outfit after 1930

1 -Officer of the kebur zebegna –


Ethiopian imperial guard

2 -Officer in the mahel safari


regular Ethiopian army

3- Selfegna ordinary soldier of


3 the mahel safari Ethiopian army

2
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The kebur zebegna


–Ethiopian imperial
guard uniform

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The kebur zebegna –Ethiopian imperial guard

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The kebur zebegna –Ethiopian imperial guard

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The kebur zebegna –Ethiopian imperial guard standing on imperial palace


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Warrior, hunters and aristocrats costumes Ethiopian፡ costume
Braves costumes

6
1. Elephant hunter at the turn of the century. These men
3 8 also sometimes wore their hair long and plaited in hundreds
1 5 of plaits. bracelet and earring were only worn by the brave.
2. Ladies of aristocratic rank wore gold embroidered cloaks
(kaba) over their handwoven cotton dresses. 3. oromo
warrior carries a shield of hippopotamus hide. 4. A warrior
chief from the highlands with Gelada baboon fur headdress
and lion's mane cape worn over a striped silk tunic. The
quantity of gold embossing on the shield was indicative of
rank. 5. Amhara warrior in velvet gold-embroidered cape,
the shape of which is based on an animal skin. Such
costumes are still worn on festive occasions. 6. Hats were
worn by townfolk at the turn of the century. 7. An Amhara
leader in velvet cloak and traditional white cotton tunic and
7
jodhpurs. 8. A mounted warrior of the highlands.

2 9. Highland kemis and shamma. older people still wear this


costume today.
9
4
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