Permanent Raised Bed Gardening: Seed Bed Preparation

A seedbed or seedling bed is the local soil environment in

which seeds are planted. Often it comprises not only the soil
but also a specially prepared cold frame, hotbed or raised
bed used to grow the seedlings in a controlled environment
into larger young plants before transplanting them into a
garden or field.

A good seed-bed needs to be prepared prior to planting.

Based on a soil test report, evenly apply fertilizer to beds
and incorporate with a rototiller. In the absence of a soil
test, apply a source of dolomitic lime, gypsum and a
complete fertilizer such as 13-13-13. Apply each at a rate
of 1lb. (1 pint) per 100 sq. ft. This 'shotgun' approach will
insure a starter supply of nitrogen, phosphorous,
potassium, calcium, magnesium and sulfur. Replace any of
the mix displaced during tilling. Smooth the soil surface
using a garden rake.When preparing crowned beds, use a
garden rake to work soil towards the middle of the beds to
form a high crown down the center. Gently lower the crown
by working the soil back towards the edges, forming a
uniformly curved surface crowned a few inches in the
middle. (Note: Before proceeding with seedbed preparation,
you'll need to install drip irrigation if you plan to use plastic
mulch. Refer to the following chapter for details.)
Next, firm the soil surface. This can be done one of two
ways. A commonly practiced method is to thoroughly soak
the beds. If the surface has dried before you start watering,
it might shed water. If this is the situation, apply several
light sprinklings until the surface is sufficiently moist to
break the surface tension. Once the surface tension is
broken, you can water the beds heavily.
An even better way to firm the soil surface is to use a turf
roller. A couple of trips over the beds using the roller
creates a smooth, firm seed bed. Normally there is no need
to fill the roller with water. Most turf rollers are heavy
enough empty to do a good job for this particular purpose.
Test bed firmness by gently pressing on the surface with an
open hand. If no depression is created, you're ready to
proceed to the next step.
Perfect Soil Preparation for a Seed Plot

Well prepared soil results in uniform germination and healthy

seedlings.
While you can buy nursery-grown starts for both edible and
ornamental gardens, vegetables such as radishes (Raphanus
sativus), carrots (Daucus carota) and lettuce (Lactuca sativa) are
more economical and often more successful when grown from
seed. A properly prepared seedbed can be just as productive as a
greenhouse bench, resulting in bountiful harvests at a fraction of
the cost. Knowing the key components of a perfect seedbed will
help you achieve seed-growing success.

Soil Moisture
It is commonly recommended to prepare seedbeds in the fall, but
this technique is not always practical because many vegetables,
herbs and flowers must be removed prematurely to prepare a bed
before significant rainfall begins. Seedbeds may be prepared in
spring, but you must pay greater attention to the soil’s moisture
level. Preparing seedbeds out of wet soil is difficult because it
tends to clump together. Check to see if your soil is dry enough by
taking a handful of soil pressed lightly together and tossing it
above your palm. If it stays together, the soil is still too wet; if the
clump breaks apart, the soil is ready for digging.
Weed Removal
If the intended seedbed is already established, you may not have to
do much weeding, as most small weeds will decay when turned
into the soil. If you are creating a new garden bed, remove large
weeds and sod before starting your seedbed preparation, as they
are not as likely to decay when turned in. Newly emerging
seedlings will not be able to compete with large, established
weeds.
Tilling and Amending
You can till small beds with a spading shovel or fork and larger
beds with a rototiller. Tilling loosens the soil, allowing seedlings to
establish strong root systems easily and quickly. Till the area to a
depth of 6 to 10 inches, as this is the rooting depth of most annual
vegetables and flowers. Tilling is also an opportunity to amend
your soil by incorporating organic matter in the form of compost.
Spread a layer of compost approximately 2 inches thick on top of
the soil before tilling. Organic matter helps the soil hold water and
nutrients and you should add it each year.
Adding Fertility
Young seedlings will grow more vigorously in fertile soil, resulting
in healthy plants that can better resist insects and diseases.
Compost will help to make nutrients available to the plants, but it
will not provide adequate fertility throughout the growing season
on its own. To ensure proper fertility once the seeds have
germinated, mix in a slow-release fertilizer. Fertilizers made from
ingredients such as feather meal and bone meal work well for
seedbeds because their nutrients break down over time and begin
feeding the plants when they need it. To apply, work 3 pounds per
100 square feet of a 7-3-2 or similar organic fertilizer blend into
the top 3 inches of soil before planting.
Testing pH
While many people skip it, pH testing can tell you a lot about how
your garden soil will perform. Nutrients may be present, but unless
the soil pH is between 6.0 and 7.0, most of these nutrients will be
unavailable to plant roots. A simple pH test can tell you whether
your pH needs adjustment. Store-bought kits are usually good
enough to indicate whether your soil is overly alkaline or acidic.
Finishing
Seedbeds need to be as fine as possible for best germination rates.
After tilling and amending, use the back of a hard rake to break
apart clods and level the soil. The soil surface should look closer to
breadcrumbs than gravel, and be as level as possible to prevent
water from pooling or flowing across the surface.