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Present and Future Sturgeon and Caviar Production and Marketing: A Global Market
Present and Future Sturgeon and Caviar Production and Marketing: A Global Market
Applied Ichthyology
J. Appl. Ichthyol. 30 (2014), 1536–1546 Received: August 15, 2014
© 2014 Blackwell Verlag GmbH Accepted: October 6, 2014
ISSN 0175–8659 doi: 10.1111/jai.12628
Present and future sturgeon and caviar production and marketing: A global market
overview
By P. Bronzi1 and H. Rosenthal2
1
World Sturgeon Conservation Society (WSCS), Vedano al Lambro, Italy; 2WSCS, Home Office, Neu Wulmstorf, Germany
Summary Introduction
Continuous drastic declines in natural sturgeon populations Within the past 30 years the over-exploitation of natural
over the past 30 years plus a high market demand for cav- sturgeon stocks for caviar production along with serious
iar have led the way for sturgeon farming, mainly for the river fragmentation and habitat deterioration have led to
production of caviar. Russia, Iran, members of the Euro- drastic population declines. As a consequence, in 1997 the
pean Union, China and the USA were among the first; International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN)
however, for the very same reasons countries outside the listed all commercially utilised sturgeon species world-wide
natural range of sturgeons also became involved (e.g. Uru- in Annex II of the CITES regulations, thus requiring inter-
guay, Arabian countries, Israel, and more recently Viet- nationally agreed trade quotas to promulgate the protection
nam). At present (2012), the total caviar output from of these highly endangered species. Nevertheless, the 2009
aquaculture is estimated at 260 tonnes, a production that Wuhan IUCN reassessment of the Acipenseriformes (IUCN,
could increase to 500–750 t within the next 10 years. If 2013) status indicated that the conditions for almost all spe-
these figures are realistic, the future of caviar trade will be cies had worsened, with more than 44% of these species
determined mainly by demand-driven price structures, with classified as even more threatened than in the 1996 assess-
the appearance of a new and evolving ‘mass market’ in ment, estimating an 85% of threatened sturgeon species
addition to the traditional luxury high-priced market. Other (IUCN Red List). The Acipenseriformes have the highest
issues are the uncertainties and opportunities in the market proportion of Critically Endangered species among all of
place. All of these issues indicate that this relatively new the most threatened animal orders (17 CR – critically
branch of the aquaculture industry faces similar growing endangered; 2 EN – endangered; 4 VU – vulnerable; 2 NT
pains as in previous developments (e.g. salmon farming) but – near threatened; 2 LC – least concern).
within a shorter time frame. The same drive that gave the Within two decades (1985–2005) several factors contributed
incentive to farm sturgeons also provided, since the early to the strong decline of the sturgeon fishery. Politically, the
1970s, the incentives to seek alternative products that could collapse of the Soviet Union was accompanied by a dramatic
fill the void in caviar supplies and even create new market decline in the otherwise powerful enforcement measures con-
sectors. The various products currently found on the market trolling this lucrative fishery; at the same time strong social
have been divided into six categories: (a) true caviar (using and economic consequences emboldened massive overfishing
eggs from sturgeons); (b) substitute caviar (eggs derived and poaching. Furthermore, river fragmentation (damming)
from other fish species or from other animals); (c) imitation as well as pollution exacerbated the environmental stress on
caviar (caviar-like products constructed from other biologi- the dwindling populations. Additionally, previously extensive
cal substances, imitating caviar in appearance and taste); (d) stocking programmes were gradually reduced and, at present,
simulated caviar (produced by other biological substances have plummeted to an all-time low.
to simulate only the taste of caviar, but not the appear- During those years the worldwide demand for caviar con-
ance); (e) derivates (products that contain true caviar as a tinued to grow and supplies from fisheries were insufficient
recipe component); (f) products with emotional associations to provide the requisite quantities.
to caviar (not related to caviar at all, but use the name as The historic demand for caviar in traditional markets (e.g.
a marketing strategy to evoke a luxury image and infer a Europe, USA, Japan, plus Russia, China, etc.) can be assessed
high value). At present, the eggs of more than 38 species of based on the overall fishery data from the 1970s to the 1990s,
fish, besides sturgeons, and three species of other animals which seem to be fairly reliable (Fig. 1). These estimates
are used to produce substitutes. About 15 ‘caviar-like’ prep- account for an amount of up to 3000 t of caviar annually.
arations are used as raw materials – such as fish flesh, sea- Raymakers and Hoover (2002) also published an earlier
weed, and others mixtures. Five products can be considered interim account of the caviar production and trade status.
simulations; few use caviar as a component in their produc- As a consequence of the continuing high demand and the
tion recipes. A variety of objects (unrelated to caviar) are perceived prospects for the caviar markets, many investors
currently marketed, but use ‘caviar’ in their trademark. became engaged in sturgeon farming so that the number of
Table 1
farms increased substantially during the past 30 years. This
Countries contributing to sturgeon fishery (25) and aquaculture (32)
trend still continues, while within the same time frame the production, 1950–2011
fishery declined even further and is now prohibited in most
countries. Needless to say that with this growing void, prices Fishery Aquaculture
for this rare commodity increased markedly. This has fos-
Azerbaijan Argentina
tered high expectations, with subsequent investments in sev- Bulgaria Armenia
eral countries mainly targeted toward caviar production. At Canada Austria
the beginning, this was mainly seen as a diversification strat- Denmark Azerbaijan
egy to add sturgeon to other farmed species, sometimes France Belarus
Georgia Belgium
merely with the intention to move toward a more profitable
Germany Bulgaria
species from those becoming less remunerative, such as trout Greece China
and eel. Hungary Cyprus
Main activities have been in Russia, and in countries of Iran, Islamic Rep. of Denmark
the European Union (Bronzi et al., 1999, 2011) such as Italy, Kazakhstan Estonia
Macedonia, Fmr Yug Rep of France
France, Germany, and Spain, but also in the USA and more The Netherlands Georgia
recently in China (Wei et al., 2011; Shen et al., 2014). Portugal Germany
Romania Hungary
Russian Federation Iran, Islamic Rep. of
Present sturgeon production scenario Serbia Israel
Slovakia Italy
Figure 1 shows the global sturgeon production (t) from fisher- Slovenia Latvia
ies during the period 1950 to 2011. The official data were taken Spain Lithuania
from FAO (2011–2014) statistics, while in the same figure we Turkey Poland
also include estimates from sturgeon aquaculture, an industry Turkmenistan Romania
Ukraine Russian Federation
that noticeably gained ground in the 1990s and grew strongly USA Saudi Arabia
during the last decade (Memis, 2014; Shen et al., 2014). USSR Slovenia
Countries contributing to the sturgeon fishery (FAO, Spain
2011–2014) and to the aquaculture (FAO statistics and per- Switzerland
Ukraine
sonal data) are listed in Table 1.
USA
At present the estimated production of sturgeon meat has USSR
reached yet another peak and is even higher than the high Uruguay
fishery yields of the 1970s. Our estimates account not only Vietnam
for the official statistics but also include additional data from
specific sources (e.g. scientists and farmers in the business).
Based on this information we infer a production level of In this rapid growth a key role is currently played by
about 51 500 t for the year 2011. Figure 1 shows the esti- China, which contributed more than 44 200 t in 2011 and is
mated trend, which probably represents a modest estimate equivalent to about 86% of the world sturgeon meat
since statistics from various countries remain incomplete. production.
However, the data represent fairly realistic trends in sturgeon Figure 2 presents the official but preliminary data from
meat production. FAO (FAO, 2011–2014) on caviar production as reported by
1540 P. Bronzi and H. Rosenthal
Table 2
Ranking by numbers of farms in countries involved in sturgeon
farming (compiled from various official and personal sources, valid
up to 2013)
No. of No. of
Country farms Country farms
Fig. 5. World locations of sturgeon farms and caviar processing plants compiled from various official and personal information sources,
reflecting the status as of summer 2013
1540 P. Bronzi and H. Rosenthal
Table 2
Ranking by numbers of farms in countries involved in sturgeon
farming (compiled from various official and personal sources, valid
up to 2013)
No. of No. of
Country farms Country farms
Table 4
Species utilized in worldwide caviar production
Subfamily Acipenserinae
Genus Huso
Huso dauricus Georgi, 1775 Kaluga sturgeon Amur river system Kaluga
Huso huso L., 1758 Beluga Mediterranean, Black seas Beluga
Genus Acipenser
Acipenser baerii Brandt, 1869 Siberian sturgeon Siberian rivers Osetra (?), Siberian O.
Acipenser brevirostrum Le Sueur, 1818 Shortnose sturgeon North American east coast ‘Breviro’
Acipenser dabryanus Dumeril, 1868 Yangtze sturgeon Yangtze river system
Acipenser fulvescens Rafinesque, 1817 Lake sturgeon Great Lake, southern Canada
Acipenser gueldenstaedtii Brandt, 1833 Russian sturgeon Black, Caspian, Azov seas Osetra
Acipenser naccarii Bonaparte, 1836 Adriatic sturgeon Adriatic Sea & tributaries
Acipenser nudiventris Lovetzky, 1828 Ship sturgeon Aral, Black, Caspian & rivers
Acipenser oxyrynchus Mitchill, 1815 Atlantic sturgeon Norh American East coasts
Acipenser persicus Borodin, 1897 Persian sturgeon Caspian Sea Osetra
Acipenser ruthenus L., 1758 Sterlet Black & Caspian tributaries Sterlet
Acipenser schrenckii Brandt, 1869 Amur sturgeon Amur River Ossetra Schrenckii
Acipenser stellatus Pallas, 1771 Stellate sturgeon Caspian, Azov, Black, Aegean Sevruga
Acipenser sturio L., 1758 Common sturgeon Baltic, N. Atlant., Medit., Black
Acipenser transmontanus Richardson, 1836 White sturgeon North American Pacific coasts California Osetra
Subfamily Scaphirhynchinae
Genus Scaphirhynchus,
Scaphirhynchus platorynchus Rafinesque, 1820 Shovelnose sturgeon Mississippi Missouri system Hackleback
Family Polyodontidae
Polyodon spatula Walbaum in Artedi, 1792 Paddlefish Mississippi River Spoonbill
Psephurus gladius Martens, 1862 Chinese Paddlefish Yangtze river system
Hybrids
A. naccarii 9 A. baerii AL, Baccarii (?)
H. huso 9 A. ruthenus Bester
A. stellatus 9 A. ruthenus Schipp
A. baerii 9 A. gueldenstaedtii BAGU
Additional to the Acipenseridae and their hybrids are the Polyodontidae (in grey), which belong to the order of Acipenseriformes but
are excluded from the Codex Alimentarius 2010 listing. A. baerii meat is sometimes called Osetra, however its caviar should be labelled
differently.
(5) Products made only from seaweed, and marketed as a a substitute for the traditional caviar clientele as well as creat-
‘delicious vegetarian caviar’ (cholesterol-free) (Cavi-Art); ing a new niche market by attracting customers normally not
such products also appear as ‘vegan caviar’, or ‘kelp cav- traditional caviar consumers. This niche market was and is
iar’, produced in Canada using seaweed as the main very important, considering that, at present, the total produc-
ingredient; tion of these products is in the order of about 60 000 t, com-
(6) A product called ‘Cavianne’ claims that it “may do for pared with the few tonnes of the true caviar supply (Fig. 7).
caviar what margarine has done for butter.” It is pro- Obviously the prices for these substitute products are
duced from the ‘secret’ recipe of a Japanese producer, quite different from those for the true caviar. Compared to
Mr. Mikami. This product covers about 20% of the Jap- the price of capelin (Mallotus villosus) caviar as a baseline
anese ‘caviar’ market; (2012), the price ratio of similar caviar products derived
(7) Soy caviar, a product based primarily on soya meal, low from other species is from 20 to 190 times higher than
in saturated fatty acids and available in three flavours: those of true caviar. Only the caviar derived from snails
‘Beluga flavour’, ‘Osetra flavour’ and ‘Sevruga flavour’. fetches a price comparable to caviar from some sturgeon
species such as the sterlet and Siberian sturgeon (Fig. 8).
Some 15 of these ‘caviar-like’ preparations are thus far
found on the market; however, there may be more.
Caviar substitutes and imitations are products competing
effectively on the true caviar market, both in appearance and Caviar simulations
taste. They began to appear on the international markets in This category includes products that pretend to have the
the mid-1970s, when the sturgeon fishery was at a peak and taste of caviar but are clearly not trying to imitate caviar,
the caviar market became important. A second growth phase because they are obviously composed of various raw mate-
for these products was apparent at the beginning of the 1990s, rials not in the least connected to caviar. They are merely
with a drastic decline in the caviar supply from the fishery and called caviar because of the substitutive role they would
farmed caviar not yet on the market. Actually, it seems these like to play when a normal consumer cannot afford to buy
opportunities were grasped when the supply of true caviar was real caviar. One of the most common of these products is
scarce, thus rapidly expanding in markets by introducing both the so-called ‘cowboy’s caviar’ made from beans and other
sturgeon and caviar: A global market overview 1543
Table 5
Fish species known to be used as caviar substitutes, indicating the common name in English and scientific name (in brackets) as well as the
trade name of the product
Substitutes
fish Commercial/common names C
In some cases the scientific family name is given because the species are not readily specified. Red = species most commonly used. Column
‘C’ = caviar products from species where the eggs are coloured to better imitate true caviar.
vegetables, which has more than 130 000 citations on the Further examples include the so-called J. Co’s Caviar
internet and where one can find numerous recipes. There Donuts, including choco caviar chocolate with different fla-
are similar products such as the ‘Texas fried caviar’, also vours such as choco caviar mint and choco caviar strawberry
made from beans; ‘eggplant caviar’ (‘Caviar d’aubergine’) as well as some strange flavour combinations such as the
made from eggplant; the ‘poor man’s caviar’, made from vanilla panna cotta with caramel and caviar.
eggplant spread; ‘Caviar de mostaza’ (composition unclear); However, the most important products in this category
‘Caviar de berenjena’ (composition unclear); ‘Caviar citric- using some caviar in their ingredients are in the cosmetics and/
o’, made from Citrus australasica, a plant from tropical or pharmaceutical sector. It is too far-afield for this overview
Australia and known as ‘finger lime’. to go into much detail here; however, this list includes such
companies as La Prairie, Nitro, Alterna, Dermastir, Prairie,
Platine de Peau, and others.
Caviar derivates Caviar is also used, – directly or as a component – in
These are products using caviar as a recipe component. An creams or peeling mixtures for massages in modern spa or
example is ‘ice cream caviar’ containing 65% caviar, and thus wellness centres.
the world’s most expensive ice cream. Another example is the A peculiar case of using the word ‘caviar’ for a product
Norwegian ‘Lofoten chocolate’, which contains about 35% was that of Alexander Kosolapov, who created an artwork
caviar and is marketed in a small tin, looking similar to the entitled ‘Icon Caviar’ (an icon filled with caviar shown in an
traditional caviar tins. exhibition on Russian Pop Art). Such strange applications
1544 P. Bronzi and H. Rosenthal
received heavy criticism – and even threats from local Ortho- formed as caviar grains in a glass jar similar to the typical
dox churches. Andrei Logvin, a Russian artist and designer caviar tins.
from Moscow, stirred up the local scene about 10 years ago Another type of fancy item to appear on the market is
with his award-winning advertising poster ‘Zhizn Udalas’ called a ‘caviar manicure’, in the form of small, coloured
made of true caviar over red trout caviar saying in Cyrillic plastic balls that are afixed onto the nails and lips as makeup
“life has been a success.” for women.
‘Caviar’ has also been used as a company name, to sug-
gest high quality products or services:
Caviar used as a trademark (an emotional issue) ‘Canine caviar’ is the trade name of the first true ‘holistic
Innovative marketing ideas have evolved around the image of pet food’;
caviar, trying to reach a clientele that would be attracted by ‘Caviar Affair’ is a specialty magazine celebrating worldly
the mysteries surrounding caviar as being something for the indulgences and luxury living;
rich and upper class but inaccessible to the average person. ‘Caviar’ is also the name of a movie production company;
Within the past decade new products have appeared almost ‘Caviar’ has also been used as the name for a digital mar-
weekly on the market, mainly promoted through internet keting consultancy, implying the provision of prime services
advertising, using the name ‘caviar’ as a recognized brand to high quality customers;
or ‘trademark’: these include various low- and high-priced ‘Caviar’ is also used as the name of a group of companies
jewels, clocks, glasses and cups, but also electronic industry offering creative products and services to the GCC (Gulf
hardware implying specific high quality hard-drives and other Cooperation Council for the Arab states of the Gulf).
accessories.
This is just a short list of frequently found uses of the term
Particularly curious is a product called ‘chococaviar’ from
‘caviar’ and we are certain that this brief survey has barely
an Italian firm, comprising small pieces of chocolate
sturgeon and caviar: A global market overview 1545
touched the subject. The creativity of companies in the be seen as being in the midst of poachers and smugglers.
global market shows rapid and dynamic developments. Similarly, farmers and caviar traders base their income on
The term ‘caviar’ has even entered the music arts. One this and may be affected by a potentially negative image if
song entitled ‘Caviar’ was written by Zeca Pagodinho, transparency within the entire product line from farm to
explaining what caviar is. Another old song is entitled ‘Cav- table is not properly organized.
iar Comes from Virgin Sturgeon’, written by Charlie Drew,
informing us of the aphrodisiac powers of caviar in various
circumstances. The future of the market
Provided our estimates on caviar production in the near future
are a realistic reflection of the market trend, the future of cav-
Spherification iar trade may mainly be determined by demand-driven price
A particular category of a caviar-like product incorrectly structures, and a new evolving ‘mass market’ could establish
called ‘caviar’ is a unique technology called ‘spherification’. itself, serving consumers with wide income ranges, while the
This technology produces small pearls or balls, ‘caviar’-like in traditional luxury and expensive market will persist at a fairly
appearance, with an external tougher kernel and a liquid decent level. Reflecting on the past, the traditional market
inside. The process is based on a sodium alginate and calcium absorbed about 3000 tonnes yearly. Future market segments
chloride reaction. Drops of any liquid substance added with could again produce a mass market composed of medium
sodium alginate are produced by a multi-needle syringe income consumers who can afford the new caviar products.
(caviar box) and laid in a solution of calcium chloride; the However, such newcomers are critical regarding the quality
external layer becomes harder, producing small balls of the control and must not be misled. To win this clientele as long-
liquid. These balls are used mainly for additives to aperitifs, term consumers they must be well informed as to the transpar-
giving the sensation of a taste ‘explosion’ when pressing the ency of the product origin and the compliance with food safety
tongue against the palate as the spheres break. In this way standards in order to see an incentive to becoming regular con-
coffee caviar, black truffle caviar, fake fruit caviar, etc. can be sumers. Still, small niche markets will continue and persist,
produced. A recipe similar to spherification uses agar agar. serving a high income group accustomed to very expensive
In general, the word ‘caviar’ has emotional and sensational products and who consider their attachment to the ‘real’ caviar
associations. When buying caviar, the consumer also buys to be a status symbol; at the same time, true connoisseurs will
the ‘public perception’ of the product (the legendary luxury also continue to appreciate the highest quality and rarest of
connection). It is simply an image and status symbol: who- caviar products. It is critical to the viability of such a niche
ever buys caviar (true caviar) must be a VIP, a rich man, a market that the industry keeps the consumers well informed so
man of success. that they fully trust the sources. Being seriously misled could
At the same time, however, the term ‘caviar’ is also linked quickly lead to a collapse of this market sector.
to the harsh fishery environment where the fishermen have to The key economic impetus for a continued growth of the
make a living, and – with dwindling natural resources – may caviar market could be specific, correct labelling, known
1546 P. Bronzi and H. Rosenthal